Volvo Penta steering actuator install - fixing boat steering system

[@boblesser9990]

Thank You Wayne for taking the time to explain how this is done! Just finished removing my actuator from my 2001 Four Winns....couldn't have done it without you! Getting ready to send it off for repair

[@tb5703]

I did mine this week on my 2008 Monterey. Replaced it with a new one. A tripple whiplash later and…. Steers like a dream again. My problem weren’t the seals. But the plunjer inside ( part where volvo penta is written) so no external leaking. Sending it to 5 stars is no option for me. Because of the tax etc sending it to the usa. Thanx for the video it helpt me understanding things. Also the Volvo repair manual is very helpful, you can download this online. DO NOT FORGET TO GREASE THE WHOLE STEERING CABLE BEFORE PUTTING IT IN THE ACTUATOR AGAIN!! ( volvo penta blue grease ) and put a little grease on the 2 bolds where the actuator is connected to the boat. NO grease on the cilinder or the part where volvo penta is written!!! Only as mentioned above.

[@WayneTheBoatGuy]

Thanks for sharing! I did not grease my cable when I put it all back together, but now that you mention it - I might go back and grease that up!

[@tb5703]

Yeah the manual says grease it every year. Or when needed. And when replacing the cable or actuator, grease the cable. So i just did that! Good luck and thanx again for sharing the video! Keep up the good work.

[@DavidSkater7096]

Thank you so much for taking the time to make this very clear and in-depth video! After watching this, I think I’m just going to put up with a slow leak and oily bilge for a while. DIY repair on this beast is beyond my pay grade!

[@WayneTheBoatGuy]

Also if you can, check the hoses to the power steering cooler as well because sometimes those can leak!

[@darrylmcleman6456]

beat the heat on the water!!! CHEERS from Sooke British Columbia Canada!

[@WayneTheBoatGuy]

Hope all is well!!

[@nateokstate77]

Thanks for this video. Super helpful. Followed your lead on every step. I’m back up and running…no leaks! Saved a pile of $$$

[@lynewing]

great video but I suggest you remove the exhaust risers only takes a few minutes makes access so much easier new gaskets are inexpense got mine for $11 on amazon came the next day

[@WayneTheBoatGuy]

Good tip!

[@chrisc8207]

Thanks for sharing this information, much appreciated.

[@WayneTheBoatGuy]

Glad to hear!!

[@Stephan_Knubel]

Great video Wayne... Two questions: ATF fluid, not power steering fluid? Can you install the bottom bolt first, then set the actuator on it. Or does the actuator need to be in place to install the bolt. I was thinking it would be easier to install the bottom bolt, if the actuator was not in the way. Okay...three questions...would you recommend using some of the that power steering "leak repair" fluid first, to see if it seals things up, before tearing into this job? thanks!

[@dennispirkl671]

pretty good information. Do you happen to know the torque setting for the top and bottom bolts?

[@Luigi-pk8mk]

I did the same job on my OMC Cobra, these had the older style Bendix actuator that is actually rebuild-able because they were also used on what are not classic cars (Corvettes and Mustangs). They mount up the exact same way as the later unit used on VP engines. To get at it I pulled out the rear seats and removed the exhaust on both sides, you also need a cotter pin extractor because those 2 big cotter pins on the mounting bolts are just about impossible to get out otherwise. The 2 small ones on the clevis (cable and steering arm) aren't fun to get out either because they are underneath and tough to even see. Just do meditation or some other self-calming excercise before you attempt this job!

[@Therealonehereyt]

Awesome video. My Glastron GX 225 looses a whole bottle of steering oil after each use. The steering is very tough to steer to the right. I'm going to attempt this repair my self and have a shop do the seals. DO you guys know what would cause the steering to be very tough to steer? Is it the leak itself and loss of oil, or bad steering cable? Thanks for the video

[@WayneTheBoatGuy]

It depends on the system in your boat. Is yours a SeaStar or Volvo Penta or something else?

[@tb5703]

When you loose a bottle of fluid. Then the pump itself or the actuator is leaking. First check the pump. Second the actuator seals. In my cade there was NO leaking but only heavy steering. Replaced the steering cable first. Did not help. Then the actuator, now it steers like new.

[@boatlover8856]

Another great video! Much appreciated!

[@jamesrissler]

Very useful tutorial and great info, about to do something similar!

[@sailingpittsburgh]

Great video Wayne. Your presentation style is very clear and well thought out. Great tip on 5 star rebuilding rather than buying a replacement. Did you do a cost comparison on the rebuild vs new part? My guess is that it saves a ton of money. Thanks for taking time to produce your videos.

[@WayneTheBoatGuy]

Thank you so much. A new one costs almost $1,000!

[@srossano]

Wayne - thank you. Very helpful!

[@WayneTheBoatGuy]

Glad it was helpful!

[@carson_brooks]

Hey Wayne! This video helped me a lot but just had a quick question when doing the job the bottom gel coat mount for the lower bolt broke. I was able to get the bolt in still but it is not very secure. Do you think that’s a big problem or shouldn’t be too big of a deal

[@reubenmurphy7053]

What size is the mounting bolt socket and the cotter pin diameter?

[@geojones4718]

11:11 My hoses came out with o-rings, but I can't even find a P/N for them. I see you don't have o-rings in yours. Any advise?

[@nometalgearr]

Thanks alot for the amazing vid

[@poobinatch]

whereabouts in MD are you? I just had my actuator liberate all my fluid into the bilge last week. Pulled it and sent it to 5 Star based on your original video. Hoping for a new one to be ready to install next week.

[@WayneTheBoatGuy]

Dang - make sure you flush out any fluid that may be the wrong type when you go to put it back in.

[@2seam151]

So the only thing I don’t understand is on the pivot pins/bolts that are threaded….what do the cotter pins go thru? Doesn’t look like there’s a hole in the actual pin itself? So is there a hole in the transom mount that the cotter pin goes thru? I watched another video where a guy said he had to drill his out

[@WayneTheBoatGuy]

The cotter pins basically slide beside those bolts in the non-threaded area. If the bolts are all the way in, the pins will slide in.

[@billgould6692]

The pivot bolts should have yellow locktite the grease belongs at pivot point.

[@mbo7613]

For others who are considering this, the rebuild service only addresses seals on the smaller rod. If there is a leak on the large cylinder (which is what I have on a lightly used 5 year old unit with around 100 hours), the only option is a new part ($850-1100). Look at the Drive Unit label on the motor and make note of it. The actuator part will list compatibility with the drive unit (e.g. "SX-A"). See, e.g., Volvo Penta 21910902 sku VOL-21910902. It would be helpful to post a process for pumping out the system and location of reservoir/refill which is not obvious on my unit from visual inspection. Edit- on my unit the power steering reservoir is co-molded with the coolant tank to save space and has a white cap. FYI OEM Volvo PS fluid is clear. The stuff in mine is red which indicates it was likely replaced by Dextron 3 ATF (supposedly approved for non-USA use whatever that means?). I'm wondering if the viscosity of different ATF could cause seep at the large seal?

[@mikelowry8635]

Wayne, awesome video! I am going to tackle this at end of season. I have a slow leak. Have you replaced the power steering pump yet? Or is yours still kicking? Thanks again!

[@WayneTheBoatGuy]

My pump seems to ok so far!

[@m1garandpatton]

Im replacing cotter pins with stainless steel hairpins for easy removal. Also used an angle drill adapter from Harbor freight that has an actual chuck with an 1/8th drill bit. Worked perfect to drill out the big cotter pin on one of the big bolts. Having a heck of a time removing the pin that connects the transom to the actuator. Anyone have an idea on getting that off? The pin that connected the steering cable to the actuator was a bear as well but I did manage to get that off with a hammer and large flathead screwdriver under the lip of the pin.

[@m1garandpatton]

Had to cut the pin in half that connects the actuator to the transom with a sawzall in 2 places to get it off. Had to punch it out with a hammer on a bench. Not sure why it was so stuck. Sent it off to 5 star marine to rebuild it.

[@daveduke5125]

Thanks!

[@WayneTheBoatGuy]

Thank you!!!

[@unapologetic7900]

So this type system doesn't require a static "bleeding" process, other than just running it and turning the wheel from lock to lock until the bubbles are all gone?

[@WayneTheBoatGuy]

I couldn't find any good info when I was looking for how to bleed it other than what I shared here.

[@troystancil4500]

Did you leave the reservoir cap off to let the air bubbles out?

[@MixiMera]

Thanks Wayne, great video. When was your engine manufactured? I got a 4.3 2006 engine and probably need something like this. It has a long play while turning and then rough steering. PS why doesn’t Volvo Penta have metric screws? It used to be Swedish but now it is owned by a US company right? I don’t have that many imperial tools.

[@WayneTheBoatGuy]

The real sign of these failing is a loss of fluid from the seals around the lower shaft. Really only able to be found by touch. My engine is from 2000 I believe because my boat is 2001. I have a mix of imperial and metric hardware on mine but mostly non-metric. It's weird because US car makers went metric many years ago and maybe they still are - but I haven't bought a new American car in a while!

[@slipstik044]

Does the rebuild actuator still work good for you?

[@WayneTheBoatGuy]

Yes it does.

[@GatesRapes]

@@WayneTheBoatGuy How do ya remove the steering cable from the actuator!! I've got all pins & both bolts out ( whatta pain ) need a stubby air ratchet on the bottom, I didn't have that !!

[@AchikSarih]

Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤

[@chrisc8207]

Are there any options to replace these actuators with one of the newer styles? Are there any with the same mounting and travel distances that would work?

[@WayneTheBoatGuy]

I'm sorry I really have no idea. The fact that there's several different model numbers and types seems weird to me. Maybe they're all very similar with different seals or maybe the dimensions or travel of the rod is very different. Maybe someone at Five Star Marine could answer that question.

[@TMcD3]

When was the last time you pulled your risers? They look pretty rough.

[@WayneTheBoatGuy]

I just got this boat last fall. That probably should be an upcoming project.

[@thomasbrown1140]

I am not having any loss of fluid or typical grinding noise, but steering is hard. I have read on forums this could be cable itself. Has anyone had this experience?

[@lynewing]

ehat is the use of the cable between yoke and steering arm bracket

[@WayneTheBoatGuy]

It's a ground wire I think.

[@geojones4718]

My bottom clevis pin won't come out .... Help, please!

[@WayneTheBoatGuy]

Try taking a break. Or coming from a different angle. Sometimes, using you phone to shoot some photos or video from angles you can't see with your eyes. It's honestly one of the hardest areas I've ever had to work. Good luck!

[@geojones4718]

Thank you for the advice. I did just that and ended up hacksawing it ( Using the phone constantly). It took me two days, but it is done. @@WayneTheBoatGuy