Volvo S60 V70 D5 Automatic Gearbox Transmission Oil Fluid Change

This is how I changed the automatic gearbox oil on my 2002 S60 D5 with the AW55-50SN / AW55-51SN gearbox. It requires an oil meeting JWS3309 specification, so please ensure you use the correct oil for your vehicle.
This method only drains the sump: the entire contents of the gearbox cannot be extracted in this way, only around 1/3.
Regular oil changes are good for the gearbox, just as they are for your engine.

[@tonyroche8841]

Great video..... thank you. My Haynes manual described a procedure for a different gearbox. I got 3L of new fluid in today and will repeat the "sump dump" process till it's nice and clean. I can feel the difference already. Incidentally I used Febi 22806 fluid which is Dexron 3G and 3H rated. It's available at Euro car parts.

[@MrArtrock]

The car need to stand level to get the most oil out not like in this video....also for reading the dipstick need level.

[@M1.942]

I’ve got the v70 d5 2004 with auto box its on 150k and the box is started to skip gears but only in traffic after a half an hour plus drive, when it’s cold it’s perfect, is it worth changing the oil or is the gearbox ruined ?

[@KomradeShotabollokov]

I had something similar with mine. Fine from cold but warm town driving it thumped between 2 and 3. I would say that it can't hurt to change the oil. Be aware that you may lose the cost of the oil. Worst case is that the valve body (or something else) needs replacing and the gearbox may not be worth replacing

[@M1.942]

@@KomradeShotabollokov yes if the gearbox didn’t get better after service I would get rid of the car, Is your video on the gearbox in my year and model? I believe is the 55-50/51 gearbox but can’t find much about it

[@M1.942]

@@KomradeShotabollokovnever mind just seen the description 👍

[@M1.942]

@@KomradeShotabollokovif I only change the oil from the Method you are doing, what do you think the chances are of sorting this issue ? I saw on the service history I had a gearbox service around 80k I believe so 70k ago

[@KomradeShotabollokov]

Well you'd need to do a series of these sump dumps as it's only about 3 litres at a time. To get close to fresh oil in there will take at least 4 changes I expect, maybe more. Even then it's hard to know if the problem will be solved. You may have to try and see

[@kenet-1563]

What about some gearbox filters that need to be replaced?

[@KomradeShotabollokov]

As I understand it the standard filter(s?) are internal so changing them is not straightforward. I chose tp use an external in-line filter instead.

[@Lee-cp9rk]

Brilliant video, i also have an S60 D5 which has 158000 miles on the clock and have had the transmission service required come up on the display. Would you recommend doing a number of sump dumps on it? It still drives ok and goes through all the gears but i want to keep it going for as long as possible. Many thanks Lee

[@KomradeShotabollokov]

[Edit: Sorry, just to add: it's worth getting Vida to read the transmission DTC first to find out if there are more serious problems to address. At the very least you might need Vida (or another tool) to reset the message. If there are no other major issues, I would carry out a series of sump dumps as described below.] Yes I would absolutely recommend doing a series of sump dumps on it. If it was me (and it was me, for my car) if the oil had been in there for many years I would (and did) do sump sumps ~500 miles/one tank of fuel apart for 3 or 4 times to get the majority of the oil changed without shocking the system. I would (and did) then do a sump dump alongside either every engine oil change, or every other oil change - i.e. each 6,000 to 12,000 miles. The oil is relatively cheap in 20l containers. A new gearbox is not. FWIW my gearbox was still working well with nice red oil at 250,000 miles.

[@Lee-cp9rk]

@@KomradeShotabollokov it comes up with a clutch position sensor code as well can't remember the exact code but can find out

[@frankfisher99]

Great clear video, many thanks.

[@The1piotr]

min cold = 40stpC +/- 2stp oil temp , the car should be on a flat horizontal floor

[@po.mk.br.mk.yzfffffff]

Great video, i just called my volvo dealer/servis and the answer was: VOLVO IS NOT RECOMENDING CHANGING TRANS. OIL OR DIFF OIL! my god!!! i am really confused. I have xc60 d4 2.4 awd 20014

[@KomradeShotabollokov]

Many manufacturers will advise that the gearbox is sealed for 'life' and that the oil does not need to be changed for the 'lifetime' of the vehicle. Remeber that the 'lifetime' for them is usualy until the warranty runs out or some other pre-calculated age whereby the resultant failure happens to an owner who isn't looking to spend their money on a new car and therefore isn't a potential customer. As long as the gearbox sees out its early life with the customer who will return for a new car again and again, then the manufacturer considers this sufficient. Whether or not you change the oil in your gearbox, Pokerovacha, is up to you. If you use an independent garage to change the oil, make 100% sure that they use the correct type (I don't know the correct type for your 2014 car).

[@elven234]

They not advice it because if gear gets broken u must pay huge money for repair or replacement. Mercedes also doesn't recommend it,result is obvious - failure, expensive one.

[@TheRubbersmoke]

Volvo are changing that oil every 30000 km in police cars and taxis here in sweden!

[@elven234]

@@TheRubbersmoke Depends which volvo station. mine car till 226tkm has only basic service, without gear oil change. now it's 330tkm, im thinking to change it

[@stephencannon3140]

Poker...of course they say lifetime....same as most replies. They want the transmission to fail well after the warranty expires and they are hoping you will either R/R transmission or entire vehicle. Either way stealerships win....ever notice that the “”Lifetims fluid and sealed transmission cases only started fairly recently. For years the manufacturers were recommending 25-30k ish miles and also you could replace the filter. And remove pan to check magnets for damage. Apparently stealerships aren’t making enough in ridiculous prices so they had to up the game. You can still drain fluid but filters and drain pan magnets which catch metal shavings to detect early failure are still sealed in most models. Total scam but what can you do!

[@lindaabola924]

Hello! And what about the transmission oil filter? Have you changed that at all? I've studied information on this specific gearbox (difference in mine is that I have the "facelift" version) is that you have to take off the subframe and the remove the gearbox itself to replace the oil filter, because it's hidden inside the gearbox itself. Or if I start to change the oil for the gearbox regularly, then that is not needed? What are your suggestions?

[@KomradeShotabollokov]

Because the internal filter is difficult to access I installed a Magnefine inline filter on the oil return line from the radiator. I used to change the filter every 20,000 to 40,000 miles.

[@dayrock1948]

Thanks for the video mate

[@KomradeShotabollokov]

No worries, cheers for the comment.

[@forresg500]

Is it same process on v70 2.4 d5 geartronic 2007 Mine at 72k miles

[@KomradeShotabollokov]

If it is a P2 chassis with the 5 speed auto, then yes it should be the same. If you have the P3 chassis (I think the change was around 2007 or so) with the 6 speed auto then it'll be a little different.

[@zenoelea8239]

Hi, re checking the 5 speed V70 Aisin Warner gearbox level, should this not be done with the engine running ? Thanks for the video.

[@KomradeShotabollokov]

Yes, I just wanted to make sure the level was approximately correct before driving the car.

[@jirka87]

And what about filter ? These gearboxes are 100% with changeable filter

[@KomradeShotabollokov]

The filter is internal so I use a Magnefine on the cooler return line.

[@dg115]

I did this on my V70 2003 and 4.3 liters came out. The car was sat for a week without starting up so maybe more fluid drained into the sump ?

[@KomradeShotabollokov]

I've seen some variability cited by owners doing this work, over the years. One possible reason could be that the gearbox was overfilled previously. It might be worth checking the new level using the gearbox dipstick when it's thoroughly warm.

[@dg115]

@@KomradeShotabollokov thanks for the reply I will check it when warmed up

[@rosstew4485]

Appreciate the video, komrade. Getting ready to do this on my s60 and was wondering if the drain bolt has a washer, o-ring, or gasket on it that might need replacing?

[@KomradeShotabollokov]

Hi Ross, thanks for the comment. If I recall, it does have a sealing washer: possibly aluminium on my car, rather than copper. I try to remember to change them when I'm carrying out oil changes, be it engine or gearbox, but do sometimes forget. I've never yet had a leak from the times I forget.

[@rosstew4485]

Fantastic! I think I found some at IPD: www.ipdusa.com/products/4695/103089-oil-pan-drain-plug-seal-washer It looks like they are the same size as the aluminum crush washers used on the engine oil drain bolt, 18mmx24mm. Thanks again for the excellent video.

[@Lee-cp9rk]

Can you tell me where you got the big bottle of fluid from please?

[@KomradeShotabollokov]

I can't remember exactly but I think it was an independent (online) oil retailer.

[@Lee-cp9rk]

@@KomradeShotabollokov thank you I've found some online the same as in the video, my local motor factors wanted £12 a litre

[@zenoelea8239]

How do you get s car on ramps and axle stands. 🤔

[@KomradeShotabollokov]

Get it on ramps first and then put the axle stands under at a point where they contact a suitable part of the chassis.

[@alastairmair9395]

Good video most helpful

[@MrUkstew]

Do you have to reset anything on Vida afterwards?

[@KomradeShotabollokov]

You don't have to if you don't want to. You could reset the fluid counter and, if you're feeling really brave, you could put the gearbox into adaption mode. I would not recommend the adaption mode without very good cause, though.

[@okuryazar260]

there is a man he is also doing something to tranmission oil cooler. Did you something or another else. you just open the drain valve and get it empty an then fill the oil right ?

[@KomradeShotabollokov]

I choose to drain the gearbox sump from the drain plug, then replace with the exact same quantity of oil. You might be referring to removing the gearbox cooler line from the top of the radiotor (the oil cooler is part of the engine coolant radiator)? If so, this sounds like the Gibbons method. I've used it before and it works well. I also installed a filter in that return line to help prolong the life of the gearbox.

[@fixall336]

what is oil brand that you used? I know it must be jws 3309. I found carlube ATF-U JWS3309 . does that matter if it is carlube or only the specification is important?

[@KomradeShotabollokov]

Careful now, you asked an oil question! Prepare to batten down the hatches for the inevitable onslaught... Here's my *opinion* on the matter: the spec is the important bit. The oil I used was Mannol (German company I think and it was shipped from Germany but possibly manufacured/produced in Poland IIRC) and met the JWS3309 spec. I was OK with this. In the past I have used the Carlube ATF-U you refer to, which also meets JWS3309. I was also OK with this. I would be happy to use various other JWS3309 oils irrespective of manufacturer, too. If you're in any doubt and are in any way squeamish about oil it may be best to buy direct form Volvo; that way you can be confident. If I were you however, I'd pop back to ECP and grab that ATF-U.

[@TheRubbersmoke]

@@KomradeShotabollokov I used castrol atf multivehicle thats the same oil as volvo are using!

[@antoniocavalli5474]

What about filter? Dont have any?

[@KomradeShotabollokov]

I believe there is an internal filter, but I used a Magnefine filter on the oil cooler return line.

[@simonfox6834]

Is there a crush washer on the gearbox drain plug?

[@KomradeShotabollokov]

I think there was on mine. The correct advice would be to replace it if you have one.

[@gregorywierzbicki7964]

WHY DOESN'T ANYONE CHANGE THE TRANSMISSION FILTER WITH FLUID CHANGE. THANK YOU.

[@KomradeShotabollokov]

The filter is, essentially, non-serviceable. It is located inside the gearbox, so to replace it I would have to strip down some of the gearbox and I'd rather not have to do that! I use an aftermarket filter in the oil cooler return line.

[@gregorywierzbicki7964]

Komrade Shotabollokov​ THANK YOU SO MUCH U HAVE AN XC70 WITH 3356I MILES ON HER THAT I BOUGHT 3 MONTHS AGO AND ITS NEEDS A COMPLETE FLUID REPLACEMENT AND A FILTER. I GUESS ILL USE THAT FLUSH METHOD AND WHERE IS THAT EXTERNAL COOLER LINE CAN I FIND IT IN THE REPAIR MANUAL ITS AN AWESOME CAR JUST NEEDS SOME SERIOUS TCL RUNS BEAUTIFUL I JUST NOTICED THE FLUID IS BROWN AND VERY THIN THANKS AGAIN BROTHER

[@gregorywierzbicki7964]

I HAVE AN XC70 MEANT TO SAY

[@KomradeShotabollokov]

Well for the P2 chassis cars (like the S60 used in my video) the cooler line can be seen at the right side of the radiator, at the top. It has a green plastic clip. If you have a different chassis or gearbox your cooler line might be in a different place. If your fluid is brown then it's probably best to change it.

[@njipods]

@@KomradeShotabollokov 2 years ago I know now but what filter do you use on the return line. that seems like a brilliant idea

[@alfiewoodcock7429]

Can you do this fluid change with a manual transmission too?

[@KomradeShotabollokov]

Yes, although the drain plug, fill point and fill quantity are all likely to be different. The oil will definitely be different.

[@csabacsorba5454]

whu will change the filter ?

[@KomradeShotabollokov]

The standard filter is internal and is significantly more difficult to access. I use a Magnefine filter on the oil cooler return line, which I change regularly.

[@chammysammy2513]

is the dirt in the gearbox normal? or is it a problem?

[@KomradeShotabollokov]

Over a long enough time the gearbox oil will become dirty with contaminants: the inevitable result of component wear. In small concentrations it is fine but in high concentrations (very black oil) you might find shifting problems as solenoids become sticky etc.

[@chammysammy2513]

@@KomradeShotabollokov today I removed the cover below, and found the same dirt as your change. I cleaned the degreaser and next month I check the status

[@Rumskas]

In the manual it says you need to put 7.2 litres

[@KomradeShotabollokov]

If ~3 litres comes out of the gearbox sump and you put 7.2 litres back in, you have going have have a very bad (and expensive) day!

[@andraz66]

Isnt 7.2L in whole gearbox, includnig wandler and labirints...? So if you drain only from 24 mm bolt, this is not the whole capacity of oil.

[@sleekitwan]

Good vid. The problem is, not everyone gets the car early enough in its life to keep the auto xmission box good, by regular fluid changes. I can only envy your spoiled xmission's fluid colour! Can't maintenance the heck out of it later in life it seems, and fix the auto box. My own theory about filters is this - some auto makers may make transmissions with them being accessible, most don't because most of the little particles floating around are worn-off clutch material. That's why, a well-worn 'box has glitches and issues often when the fluid gets changed. I did the method where you put the top line from the xmission that green-clips into the rad (buy spare clips in advance everyone) and the other line somewhere else, and feed new fluid in one while the other dispenses the old, with the engine running. It gives a complete change, but you need plenty of new fluid. Your method is just as good in practice for reasons I just gave. You actually don't want to completely get rid of those worn-off particles. The filter inside the gearbox, is for lumps of metal, they are pretty coarse things? Thanks for the how-to.

[@KomradeShotabollokov]

Hi sleekitwan, thanks for the comment. I agree that a well used gearbox might react badly if the fluid is changed. It's an oft-cited theory that power/pressure flushing can dislodge any particles and actually cause more problems than the new fluid solves. I'll let you into a little secret: when I bought this car (used) many years ago, I experienced gearbox issues. The fluid was black so I used the Gibbons method (as you've alluded to) to flush ~10 litres through. The fluid only remained red for a few thousand miles and the gearbox was not fixed. The gearbox was later rebuilt by a specialist to the tune of £2800. I now consider that the best method for a well-worn gearbox is a series of these sump dumps: ~3 litres at a time, spread over 500-1000 miles each. This is less of a shock to the system. I'd only consider another Gibbons flush via the cooler line if the gearbox was already in rude health and the fuild was cherry red: there should be no shock to the system in this scenario. Incidentally, I use a 3/8" Magnefine filter attached to the return line and change it every ~40,000 miles. I've already cut a used filter open and was shocked at the quantity of particulate matter retained by the filter element and ferrous material attracted by the magnet. Well worth the money, considering Aisin Warner's own filter is essentially non-serviceable, inside the 'box. I have kept up with regular gearbox oil changes over the last 65,000 miles since the rebuid and intend to keep the fluid red...

[@rpinola]

You put the Magnafine right after rebuilt? I'm wondering if the filter is worth putting on a 100 000 mile transmission (which had had oil changes every 50k and is working fine), since the most material would break loose at the beginning or when you put new parts in. But I'm planning to put quite a lot of miles on it. Do all of AW55-50SN models have an oil cooler line where you can put the filter on?

[@619_Basik]

​Thank you so much you guys are both so intelligent I'm researching my Volvo now because they're very different from the normal cars we have here in California

[@FrederikUnknown]

Do all AW55 automatic transmissions have 3,2 liters gearoil in it? My S60 T5 have the same transmission, and is That the same Oil level? :-)

[@KomradeShotabollokov]

Whilst I cannot be 100% certain, I believe that is the case. Bear in mind the ~3 litres are held in the gearbox sump; this does not represent the entire oil capacity of the gearbox. I think the full capacity is approximately 9 litres so changing the oil in the sump only changes ~1/3 of the total available.

[@janosvarga396]

Hi is the gerbox i P position and the oil temp is at 80° but the engin is idling or its turn off ? Thank you

[@KomradeShotabollokov]

Hi Janos. I check the oil level when the engine is idling, which is the correct procedure as far as I'm aware.

[@stayedsolidtv]

Is there a gasket on the drain plug? And what size is the drain plug? I have the same car as you but with out boost (so the 2.4l N/A). If my gear box is having hard shifts/trouble engaging, would Lucas slip stop fix it?

[@KomradeShotabollokov]

Mine has an aluminium sealing washer I think but a copper one would also work well. The drain plug is 24mm (on my car, at least). The decisions made when a gearbox is showing signs of wear differ greatly depending on who you talk to so I can only offer my personal advice: if the gearbox is truly shagged then you have nothing to lose by trying these quick fix miracle formulas but I would try other methods first. Is the oil currently black or cherry red? I would carry out a series of sump oil changes initially (at least 3) to see if the problem improves: this would be ~3 litres at a time with ~500 miles in between. This poses less of a risk to the gearbox than that of a full system flush using 12-20 litres in one go. A full flush might dislodge (more) sediment into the solenoids which may make a bad situation worse. Using Vida DICE the gearbox can be put into adaption mode to re-learn the shifts after you’re confident that the oil is staying cherry red. If all of that fails, then you might look at replacing the valve body, complete with solenoids, but then again you might also look at the cost of another used car instead! I wish you luck.

[@stayedsolidtv]

Komrade Shotabollokov thanks buddy! Will do the 500 mile intervals. Might get back to you about the adaptive mode. Thanks again!!

[@TheRubbersmoke]

It´s the same washer size as it is on the engine oil plug

[@nsoper19]

doesnt this gearbox have a dipstick to measure the levels?

[@KomradeShotabollokov]

Hey Nathan, the gerbox certainly does have a dipstick. I show it to you in the video at the following times: kzbin.info/www/bejne/kKnZd3V6pbieo7M kzbin.info/www/bejne/kKnZd3V6pbieo7M and kzbin.info/www/bejne/kKnZd3V6pbieo7M

[@nsoper19]

Komrade Shotabollokov yeah so why don't you use it when refilling? You say you just put the same amount back in but surely you can just check it?

[@KomradeShotabollokov]

Checking the level accurately on the AW55-50SN is not as straightforward as it could be (certainly when compared with checking the engine oil) and people may read the level inaccurately as a result. However, accurately measuring the oil removed from the gearbox and then replacing with the exact same amount is easier, quicker and prevents mishaps. This is the method I prefer.

[@steveroche2524]

My xc 90 needs this treatment its dirty oil thinking gibbons to get as much contamination out as poss then sump dumps every year as I have just started towing with it too We hot the box hot towing back from cornwall locked in safety in 4th gear untill ignition off and on then back to normal and has been fine since approx 4 weeks now but oil dirty so needs a change or 3 independent volvo dealer 250quid for an 8l flush pushes me to do it myself Your recommendations would be greatly appreciated if different to mine Tia steve Northampton uk

[@KomradeShotabollokov]

Hi steve. If it were me (and my S60 AW 55-50 gearbox had the same kind of issues many years ago) I would treat this now as a 'not much to lose' type of situation, given that the oil is dirty and the 'box is misbehaving. I would do a Gibbons flush first to get the oil better, then a series of sump dumps over the next few hundred or thousand miles after that, depending on what colour the oil is after Gibbons. My Gibbons oil didn't take too long to get a little darker but follow-up sump dumps helped this greatly. My D5 has done ~140k with no issues since my problems many years ago (total mileage now ~240k) and I regularly do sump dumps (every ~20k) and change the Magnefine oil filter every ~40k. You probably already know but there is a wealth of info on Volvoforums about the AW 55-50 oil changes. All this is assuming you don't have later 6-speed: I have no experience of that one. Hope it works out well for you.

[@steveroche2524]

@@KomradeShotabollokov the issue was once and not since I do blame the hill while towing getting box too hot after down shifting I've ordered 20l of oil so I'll get at it asap where can I get the filter to add in line please

[@KomradeShotabollokov]

I ordered it from eBay from a US supplier (they're more common in the US I believe). I attached mine to the oil return line from the radiator cooler to the 'box and found that a 3/8 hose connection on the filter worked well.

[@timmorodgers4271]

Can I have your old gearbox oil?

[@KomradeShotabollokov]

It went in the recycling long ago!