Volvo S60 XC70 850 XC90 Subframe bushing simple removal - SEE comments section

These bushings come out surprisingly easy using only a simple drill and screw driver. The trick is to simply crack the plastic collar at one point, then the whole bushing collapses. Please be aware that some subframe bolts get stuck and can break (nasty)
Before removing the old bushing, be sure to mark the way it's oriented - scratch the subframe where the bushing has two notches, the new bushing must have the two notches exactly at same place: this makes sure the rubber reinforcement inside the bushing is pointing to the sides of the car - important (these bushings act sideways)
To install a new bushing, round a bit with sand paper the two metal edges pointing downwards of the each of the subframe metal layers (these are sharp and 'grab on the bushing plastic'. Smear the bushing plastic with a bit of grease. Place bushing with the correct rotation (important) and use the bolt with the large metal washer with 4 nuts (see pics in the forum link) to drive the bushing in place - do NOT push on the 4 rubber bumps under the bushing, push only between the rubber tabs. Do not apply excessive force on the bolt and don't use impact - it may crack the bushing plastic. If it feels it needs too much torque on the bolt, tap gently upwards around the metal plate with a hammer. Consult this forum discussion for more tips (not my pictures) www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...
Warning: always inspect your subframe bolts. Sometimes these are stuck, and a few people did break these while forcing to remove them - major problem. You need to use a 2 ft breaker bar and 1/2 drive socket but if it feels stuck, better stop and not take a chance. These bolts typically must be replaced (stretch type), especially if you forced to remove them. Torque is 77 ft-lb + 120° (new bolt), the two 14mm on the rear plate are 37 ft-lb. To give you an idea what may happen, have a look at this rusted bolt picture www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...

[@Peppermint1]

BOLT TORQUE at the end of this message Before removing the old bushing, be sure to mark the way it's oriented - scratch the subframe where the bushing has two notches, the new bushing must have the two notches exactly at same place: this makes sure the rubber reinforcement inside the bushing is pointing to the sides of the car - important (these bushings act sideways). Please be aware that some subframe bolts get stuck and can break (nasty). To install a new bushing, round a bit with sand paper the two INFERIOR (pointing downwards) metal edges of the subframe: the bushing sits on two metal layers of the subframe. Sand only the edges pointing downwards to allow the bushing to travel upwards when pressed it, the edges pointing upwards must remain sharp because the bushing hangs on these superior edges once in place. Be Aware that you will need a high lifting floor jack to at least 18 inch high or even more using a piece of 2x4. Smear the bushing plastic with a bit of grease. Place the bushing with the correct rotation (important), and use the large metal washer of the subframe washer with 4 nuts (see pics in the forum link) to drive the bushing in place - do NOT push on the 4 rubber bumps of the bushing, push only between the rubber bumps You also need to Keep a 1/2 inch space between the top of the subframe hole and the cross member of the car because the bushing will actually pass by a few millimeters over the top of the subframe, so you need to leave this clearance when pressing the bushing for the final few millimeters - use a few washers or nuts to keep the subframe from touching the cross member of the car body. I do not recommend to drive the bushing using the bolt. If it feels the bushing gets stuck, tap gently upwards around the metal washer with a hammer. To press the bushing in, you have the choice to either lift with a floor jack under the bushing or to slowly lower the car on a jack stand placed under the bushing, but again, you need something that is reaching very high, a standard small floor jack does not lift high enough, the bushings sit high on this car. Warning: always inspect your subframe bolts. Sometimes these are stuck, and a few people did break these while forcing to remove them - major problem. You need to use a 2 ft breaker bar and 1/2 drive socket but if it feels stuck, better stop and not take a chance. Be aware that on some forums and blogs there is an incorrect higher torque reported that will cause the bolts to weaken and even shear while driving. These bolts typically must be replaced (stretch type), especially if you forced to remove them. Torque is 77 ft-lb (105 Nm) + 120° (new bolt), the two 14mm on the rear plate are 37 ft-lb (50 Nm). Pictures www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=96106 Rusted / damaged subframe bolt www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=85069 Subframe tool kzbin.info/www/bejne/r4auqJJjlLF8jrM

[@jojobutter1]

thanks!!!

[@ericmci]

Excellent! Thank you. You're not a fan of using the old bolt to press in the new bushing and then finishing with a new bolt properly torqued!

[@reallyhappenings5597]

Haynes manual says that post-2005 models have a torque of 160 Nm (118 lb-ft) for subframe bushing bolts with no angle. Earlier models through 2004 have torque + angle

[@Peppermint1]

@@reallyhappenings5597 The torque numbers with angle are 77 ft-lb (105 Nm) + 120° for a new bolt (these are stretch bolts). Be aware that on some forums and blogs there is an incorrect higher torque reported that will cause the bolts to weaken and even shear while driving. The torque for the two smaller 14mm bolts on the rear plate is 37 ft-lb (50 Nm). I'm linking your video with the special tool kzbin.info/www/bejne/r4auqJJjlLF8jrM

[@euromobile900]

I just did a bushing using this technique, after doing a quick roundup of all the other crackpot bushing-removal techniques proposed on the internet (holesaws, $150 special tool, chisels, sawzall, etc). Yours is indeed the most efficient. I was drilling for MAYBE 30 seconds - less than you do in the video - and then the bushing came out easily with a big screwdriver. Color me impressed! This was a '98 P80. I replaced the bushing with the XC90 bushings, 8678497. Pressed in with a jack using the old bushing as a driver between the new bushing and the jack.

[@crasbee]

Thank you for this trick, it saved me a lot of trouble :)

[@Peppermint1]

👍👍

[@NickAbbot.]

Brilliant! You are a genius! Thank you!

[@leongcheam5914]

Thank you Sir, This is the best method.

[@reallyhappenings5597]

I just did this yesterday. The special tool (see my vid) makes it easy. Done this job on two cars now and silicone paste makes replacement much easier second time

[@DuckDroid]

Thank you so much for this video! I thought I needed some specific tools like bmw

[@reallyhappenings5597]

You can also use bushings from the heavier XC90 on the rest of the P2 line, still rubber but beefier.

[@Peppermint1]

It's interesting, Volvo is listing #3507923 for all cars including XC90 while #8678497 is listed only for the XC90 www.volvopartswebstore.com/products/Volvo/Bushing-Bearing-bushing/1165499/3507923.html www.volvopartswebstore.com/products/Volvo/Bearing-bushing/1171832/8678497.html

[@aaronjohnmaughan]

If removed and replaced one at a time, could these bushings be addressed with the car up on ramps, versus jacking and supporting with stands?

[@Peppermint1]

You still need to support the corner of the subframe where a bolt is being removed. We must not let the subframe hanging down with a bolt out because being lowered this way it will pull down on various components such as the steering input shaft, or on some important ECU harness and power steering lines attached to the subframe. The subframe must be lowered in each corner no more than 0.5 inch, just enough to keep a little bit of clearance when pushing a new bushing back in place

[@ericmci]

Thank you for the video. I'm assuming you are doing one corner at a time rather than dropping the subframe. I'm just curious that you seem to be supporting the car with the tire rather than a jack stand?

[@Peppermint1]

One corner at a time indeed. This was filmed at the junkyard (car cemetery). See more info in the pinned comment

[@dfull6627]

Those bushings need to be installed in the correct orientation. If they are not installed facing the correct direction, they will fail early.

[@Peppermint1]

Very correct

[@henrikloiske8572]

Here in Sweden the genuine bushing 3507923 costs 28.10 dollars(293:- Swedish crowns)

[@cosmicallyderived]

What’s the story with ProPartsSweeden?

[@jojobutter1]

@2:59 Here I am , opening up my box of new bushings from Pro Parts Sweden and I hear this

[@Peppermint1]

Yep, better not do the same job twice. Moreover, if these fail soon as we think, they may actually fail more totally whereas the old genuine ones still hang in there. Genuine ones are not the expensive, try online dealership stores such as Tasca (US) or Volvo of Toronto (Canada)

[@henrikloiske8572]

They have changed their recommedation on the bushings i found out today 2023-01-18.... You nead 4 of 3507923 instead....

[@user-pc3up9ur5v]

Дякую

[@Peppermint1]

Welcome

[@anfahrt]

What are the indicators that the subframe bushings on a Volvo have to be replaced? Are the parts from Professional Parts Sweden really that bad? Here in Holland there is a Volvo shop that sells these parts.

[@Peppermint1]

Many parts stores are selling both the good and the bad brands. It's because they know there will always be people attracted by lower cost, which in the end will have them come back and buy the good part when the cheap one will fail soon. As for the reason for replacing the bushing, I think past 130 000 kms the rubber gets softer and the steering will start feeling slightly more 'vague'. But I don't think it should make a 'huge' improvement. The original bushings do not fail completely - the genuine ones that is, it's just the steering feeling that gets affected. A new bushing is very stiff, worn ones get very soft kzbin.info/www/bejne/bXTdgpSPndZnnJo

[@anfahrt]

@@Peppermint1 Thank you for your kind answer. I am still looking for the reason why my steering wheel starts to vibrate on higher speeds. I already did an alignment and balanced all the wheels. I had the inner and outer tyrods replaced and the steering feel did improve a bit. It is not that the steering wheel is shaking but when I drive over bumps on higher speeds the steering feels shaky. It's hard to describe. My shocks are not the newest but they seem to be in reasonable shape. Maybe the swaybar N links?

[@Peppermint1]

@@anfahrt Several parts may be worn. Control arms, spring seats and possibly the subrame bushings. Use only quality parts such as Lemforder, Sachs, Hutchinson, Rein

[@anfahrt]

@@Peppermint1 Thanks for your answer! For the inner and outer tyrods I used Lemforder. The only thing I bought from Pro Parts Sweden is the the transmission motormount. I am thinking that it is spring seats which are worn.

[@ivanstenchristensen7037]

@@anfahrt Remember that Volvo provide original parts to serve Volvo cars for many years in order to make its owner proud of his car. Aftermarket parts are made only for profit of the part itself.

[@harryjnr2335]

Is this the same on the rear? Thanks

[@Peppermint1]

Good question, the new bushings are the same front and rear, so I believe it's removed the same way. Only for rear ones we have the metal plate with two 14mm bolts, and we need to lift the car differently so we have access to the bushing bolt

[@harryjnr2335]

@@Peppermint1 I would like to see what's involved with the rear one's , great video

[@sandriso5929]

Next video how to replace ?

[@Peppermint1]

Soon, just ordered them from Volvo

[@reallyhappenings5597]

See my video on the Volvo factory subframe bushing install/remover tool. They are still available from one shop in CA.