Volvo xc60 d5 twin turbo boost p0299

[@lawrencedunn]

Great overview, Thank you, It helped me to know where to look to find a leak in the boost line (oil leak on it was the giveaway), which I’m sure is the culprit to the power loss every once in a while.

[@davidwalters2760]

I watched your video after a friend of mine bought one of these cars with a turbo fault. 2 garages diagnosed the same problem boost/ waste gate circuit open. After going through your check list, it turned out to be a loose plug on the solenoid valve with the plug on top! Problem fixed and my friend got £1000 off the sale price because they thought that it might need a new turbo! So we both thank you for your very informative video. Without it, we would never have sorted the problem out or even taken the plunge on buying the car in the first place!

[@JamesParus]

that's great to hear it helped!

[@voxnul]

Enjoyed your video

[@tubamick]

I changed the boost pressure sensor you point out at 0:48, and hey presto, my fault (P0299) is cured!

[@sergiolouridourrutia4376]

Great video! I watched it lot of times because i've the same DTC in my XC70 D5 (2013). Error appears running over 2800 rpm (when smaller turbo isn't boosting and bigger turbo works). I replaced both of solenoids, both turbo's core assembly, both pneumatic actuators are working fine, no cracks, no vacuum leaks, no boost leaks, new MAF, I cleaned MAP and boost pressure sensor, new fuel filter... for nothing, still appearing that dtc. Car runs perfectly until 2800, after that it loses power... please any clue? Thanks in advance!

[@roycoemar]

have the same issue... do you have any updates? I am struggling with this a lot.. also I have changed the same list as yours.. kind of disappointed in Volvo

[@sergiolouridourrutia4376]

No yet, I even removed the turbo assembly to check for stuck wastegate and it was working fine... last thing to check, I have to remove whole assembly and remove turbo2's core to check for cracks inside exhaust side (near DPF), and check for cracks in intercooler... no more ideas for this

[@Pseudoics]

@@sergiolouridourrutia4376 I had this problem (low power above 3krpm) with my D5244T15 and the main culprit was the boost pressure sensor on the intercooler outlet. The car would struggle to overtake or accelerate on inclines. Fault found with IC outlet sensor; replaced with new, problem 90% fixed! I still get the P0299 DTC but the car is near to as it should be. I suspect manifold soot buildup etc plays a roll. Did you solve your issue?

[@sergiolouridourrutia4376]

No yet, still appering the DTC when full throttle acceleration, but not limp mode. I'm thinking about EGR valve, maybe a little stuck open when high rpm when it must close completely. I need to remove it to clean and remove all soot it could have.

[@walp86]

Thanks for an informative video!

[@KC-lm7pl]

interestingly I have the opposite condition to most others, where i have no power low down but power is fine higher up, changed the map sensor so far. think i'll give turbo intercooler outlet sensor a go.

[@JamesParus]

If you have this twin turbo version, it could be issue with the smaller turbo or with the flap that changes the turbo from small to big.

[@NathJPearson]

Is there a part number for the vacuum sensor? The one that should be changed of the metal rod isnt moving freely.

[@pavw5508]

I have a very unusual problem. My v70 mk3 d5 2010 stalls when I'll accelerate heavily but only on 6th gear. It only appears on high speed on motorway when on top gear. If the gearbox shift down car will be fine. On 6th gear engine will stop. I have focused on fuel supply. Checked and changed common rail valve and regulator. Changed a valve in hp pump. Checked pump. Replaced one of the injectors. Problem still exists. I am thinking maybe it's over boost. I've checked all the hoses and vacuum lines. All in tact. Any help or idea would be aw

[@shanecool100]

Auto or manual?

[@pavw5508]

@@shanecool100 automatic

[@NathJPearson]

Great video. So I managed to free up my rod. It pulls up under vacuum but does not drop back down naturally. I think it had been stuck for some time. Is it worth trying to lubricate the rod? Or could something else be causing it to stick in the up position. I can free it manually and it moves very freely under no vacuum.

[@NathJPearson]

Also changed solenoid and still sticking up wards after engine off.

[@JamesParus]

If I remember correctly. There was force pulling it down. There Is probably spring inside the vacuum thing?

[@NathJPearson]

I think that's sealed. Really hard to find a replacement vacuum without buying a whole new turbo!

[@NathJPearson]

Some lubricant seems the helping. With a few light tabs on the diaphragm it falls loose. It must have been stuck for years!!

[@JamesParus]

@@NathJPearson would It be possible to make some external spring for it. Small hose clamp to Rod and down from there...

[@Sparky_Sct]

I have this DTC along with P200200 (DPF efficiency below threshold). When I bought the car it had a DPF full error message on the dashboard so I took it to a garage for a forced regen he said the regen only took 5-10 minutes so it mustn't have been very full but the message was still on the dash. So I left it with him for another couple hours and he got the message to go away, not sure how. Then I got an engine light again in about a month so I acquired a copy of VIDA and got these two error codes. I did some live data recordings while driving and the boost pressure seemed to follow the demanded value in 3rd and 4th but not 2nd while doing a full-throttle 0-60. The maximum demanded boost was 309 kPa but the most it made was 230kPa. I also measured the DPF pressure which peaked at 41hPa so doesn't seem like the DPF could be blocked. Also, the accelerator pedal position only goes to 66% with my foot to the floor, could this be because the ECU isn't seeing the right amount of boost or thinking the DPF is blocked and limiting or is the pedal just broken? The EGR pipe seems clean and the firewall behind it, and I cleaned the EGR valve which wasn't very dirty at all. The boost sensor at the intercooler outlet was none genuine and gave a different reading than the MAP sensor so I replaced it but was still getting the error codes. The vacuum does work to operate the rod. The car also smokes a good bit when it starts and it's cold out (under 10 C) and doesn't start very well at half operating temperature. So I suspected the MAF, check it and sure enough at 6 C the MAF was reading 13 C, replaced it with a new bosch unit but still had the same high temp readings. Do you know what voltage each pin for the MAF connector should be? I measured 1 at 12V, 1 earth, 1 at 5V and 1 at 4.5V. Sorry for the long post, this has been kicking my ass, I've tried other things that I can't recall as well. Any help is much appreciated.

[@JamesParus]

I think seeing also that the throttle is not 100. 40hpa is low. Should not be blocked. My current mercedes reported dpf efficiency low when maf was broken. It is somehow calculated from intake flow and other values. After I changed the maf the mercedes worked. I dont know the maf pins. Its good to check boost pipes for leak if its leaking boost.

[@Sparky_Sct]

@@JamesParus thank you for the quick reply! I forgot to mention it did have a boost leak when I bought it. I fixed that before getting it regen’d, another hose may be leaking a bit but I don't hear a boost leak. It does sound a bit whistley till it swaps to the big turbo but I think that's normal. After doing a visual inspection of the hoses it doesn't look like they have a leak, the intercooler looks fine as well no suspicious oil build up. What really gets me is that under all possible conditions, the MAF temperature reads higher than the air it's taking in and I don't see how that's possible with a new unit.

[@JamesParus]

@@Sparky_Sct first maf I bought for mercedes lasted only 1week. If the maf is not bosch or some name brand. That could cause it. Actually the first maf I got caused the dpf error. When the original maf broke it only gave maf code. So the dpf code could be from bad new maf.

[@Sparky_Sct]

@@JamesParus aye the new MAF I got is genuine Bosch. Do you know if the ECM doesn't see full boost will it not allow full throttle because I bought a new throttle pedal and it still only goes to 66% in Vida’s live data diagnostics.

[@AriaAsgari]

Dude! LOVE THE ACCENT HAHA! LOOOVE IT! Thanks for the video. Got this issue with mine.

[@JymyMerikivi]

Yeah, it sounds lot of like accent called "rally english". I identified it right away, because that's the english accent we finnish people speak :D

[@ariag.a3620]

@@JymyMerikivi Gotcha. :D

[@kjen13]

Finnish accent is fkn awesome

[@milczarkus]

How work this rod Sir? When i start the car , the rod is pulsing up and down or stay in one position ? I mean when the engine is working on 750rpm

[@JamesParus]

If I remember correctly it should pull it up when idling. If its pulsing its probably leaking vacuum from line or that vacuum clock is leaking.

[@james4eng44]

What if the turbo is louder than normal? Boost leak?

[@JamesParus]

If it's whistling then usually the turbo rotor has little damage from foreign object or something. I have used borescope to check it. If it's a small mark on the rotor it can still work for years. But it whistles. Could go out of balance thou. Then it will eventually fail totally

[@james4eng44]

@@JamesParus could I have popped a pipe off ? Goes into limp mode

[@james4eng44]

@jamesparus I found it, aux pully had rubbed through the lower intercooler hose, new part ordered, duct tape for now

[@xjs2]

hi how can i ask you some information i live in uk?

[@davidryan4796]

I have that code fault on my v50. Any ideas, please

[@dannybooo9090]

Should it be pulled down when turned on driven and sat at idle

[@rajmann7002]

Hi james I desperately need your help. I have xc60 2009 diesel. The engine will not Rev up. Maximum is 1400 rpm. I’ve changed new DPF, new EGR, new MAF sensor, new T Boost sensor. Still no good. Any advice please?

[@JamesParus]

My problem was eventually that the 5th cylinder lost valve lifters. It was apparent when i took the valvecover off. At first if probably lost just one out of two intake lifters. Later both and then its running on four cylinder only. The engine probably had failed cam belt and valves crashed to piston which makes lifters to fail. If the engine shakes at idle its probably running with only four. Taking off injector wires one by one you could determine what cylinder it is. If that is the case. Volvo specialist ordered used good head and with that car worked perfectly. But expensive.

[@rajmann7002]

@@JamesParus I tried disconnecting the injectors one by one, but no difference in idle. Could you confirm that when you change an injector for Volvo, does it need to be programmed? 2 injectors are showing positive readings and 2 are negative. 1 is almost neutral. Does this sound correct or should all 5 be positive? Thanks

[@robinfahlgren296]

@@rajmann7002 yes, you have some number on the injectors, and they need to be programmed in to the system, for it to work properly.