Voron 2.4 Step By Step Part 6 Clockwork/Fans

[@ginnam_dayo]

I am Japanese. Sorry if my English is bad. Thanks to your video I was able to build voron. Thank you for your careful work.

[@waskito3443]

I love how you must've spent 10 hours for 1 video. This makes building the 2.4 a breeze. These videos are on a different level when it comes to being comprehensive when compared to every other video out there.

[@scottcorn]

Thank you. They do take a long time to create.

[@CalebRogers1]

Love it. I was just hitting this part in my 2.4 build and was wondering where the rest of the guide went. Who knew it was just mia. Thanks for the video!!!

[@scottcorn]

Glad I could help!

[@hosr888]

DOOOOPE!!! Been waiting for this!

[@scottcorn]

Thank you, glad you like them.

[@nenaddinic2717]

My kit arrives next week, hope I can start assembly immediately, that way I can catch up with you. Great work!

[@scottcorn]

Thank you. I'm sure you can catch up. It takes me forever to video and edit these things. :-)

[@bigwurm8314]

Thank you for doing this it's the most helpful build guide I personally have found

[@scottcorn]

Glad you enjoyed!

[@alaaessam5545]

First of all, thanks so much for your videos it really helps, I had a question, here 4:33 you used a NEMA 17 motor 17HS08-1004s, but my Excel sheet I downloaded from VORON website shows a NEMA14 Motor 36STH20-1004AHG, I don't get it, are they look the same or something is wrong with my parts list?

[@nigozeroichi2501]

Nice work, can't wait for wiring👍 I discovered super lube almost thirty years ago (ugh I'm getting old) had some fans that would gum up using "electric motor oil" started using SL the TBO increased significantly.

[@scottcorn]

Thank you. I used Super Lube on my old TwoTrees Z lead screw. It was the only thing that would keep the thing from screeching. lol

[@GrumpyDave1]

Everything is relevant to the R2 which maybe an obvious statement but you know, every little bit of extra information associated with this excellent video helps. Every time I think I should upgrade during the initial installation aka Stealthburner , I remember someone saying that one should get their base product working then upgrade as you will probably find better community support if there is a problem. For me at least that seems like sound advise.

[@scottcorn]

I can't help but be an old software engineer. I never make multiple changes at the same time. If something doesn't go well you don't know what caused the problem. One change at a time on a known good system and you know what caused an issue.

[@EN-Azar]

Hello, Scott! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience with us! I'm building my first 3D printer and was wondering where I could get the Voron Clockwork parts. The same 3D-printed parts you demonstrated in this video.

[@scottcorn]

Thank you! This is the extruder I built in the video: github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Afterburner/tree/afterburner/STLs/Direct_Feed This link is ClockWork1. When I built the V2 it was the latest. The current one is ClockWork2 and I think it only works with Stealthburner not Afterburner that was in the video.

[@EN-Azar]

​@@scottcorn Thanks for your response! Currently, I am not able to print the parts and am going to order the printed parts. Do you know where I can order the printed parts online?

[@scottcorn]

@@EN-Azar kb-3d.com/store/ Not sure where you live. This is a US vendor. He has printed parts but they are the newer versions. Email him maybe he has some old stock.

[@EN-Azar]

Thank you! I am in Michigan.

[@scottcorn]

@@EN-Azar No problem.

[@rent2ownnz]

I notice you are not adding Thread locker to the set screws at all? I would definately recommend doing this to all set screws before installation. Just need a drop not a complete saturation.

[@justmusing2569]

Super videos and a great contribution to helping us newbies get it right! Have you listed the test equipment you're using that I see on the workbench? I use an AmScope at work and really like it.

[@scottcorn]

Thank you. I've not yet created a list. The microscope is a AmScope SM-3TZ. I like it lot. You are right, I need to make up a list of tools I use. I'll work on that.

[@justmusing2569]

@@scottcorn Thank you! I think I also saw an ESD mat. If so, well done!

[@scottcorn]

I used the ESD mat when wiring the sensitive parts. Boards drivers etc.

[@collincharvat1082]

So do the belts go in the t slot??

[@Ahmed-ic9ft]

Hi, when is part 7 coming out? cant find good guides on gantry mounting and z belting

[@scottcorn]

I started the video last night. It will be another week or so. Kind of took a break over the holidays so I'm a week behind.

[@bartvanotterdijk2920]

Is there no more LockTite thread locker used on the set screws here?

[@scottcorn]

The extruder drive shaft could probably use it. I'm believe that most everything is temporary until I get everything squared when I install the gantry in the next video. That drive shaft won't change though obviously.

[@bartvanotterdijk2920]

@@scottcorn I did apply a little drop ;-) Thanks for your awesome video series by the way! I really like how simple and to the point it is with only the needed and useful info and tips.. Those livestreams are great too but listening 2h out of 4h of them talking about webcams and streaming issues?? Keep it up. You're really helping a lot of us out!

[@allaboutpixhawkandrpi3691]

My gear set screw keeps loosening am assuming because of heat. Is there a way to fix this issue ?

[@scottcorn]

The metal that my first set screw was made of was poor. The quality depending where you got it from varies. I ended up buying known actual E3D parts and was happier. You can also use Loctite 242 on it. Even with this weaker Loctite you will have a hard time getting it back out though.

[@allaboutpixhawkandrpi3691]

@@scottcorn thanks Scott 😊. I'll prolly do both. I'll apply the loctite and but the new gear just incase. I really appreciate ur quick reply :)

[@scottcorn]

No problem. Good luck!

[@owenwagner9017]

PSA: Make sure the drive shaft does not touch the motor when fully seated (noted in video). I tried my first test print tonight and was having horrible extrusion issues. Turns out my feed gear path was about 1mm off center to the filament path!

[@scottcorn]

Yes, you are correct. I wish I had put that in my video. I'll add it in the final tuning video.

[@owenwagner9017]

@@scottcorn you do have it in the video! I was just saying it caused me issues because I failed to do that during my assembly

[@scottcorn]

Ok, good. I remembered measuring it, but I thought I left it out.

[@ShuhDonk]

All I want for Christmas is Part 7 :)

[@scottcorn]

Early in January. I'm afraid the holidays are eating up my next two weekends. Soon though.

[@lanypuspasari1868]

What abs brand your using?

[@scottcorn]

The parts are printed in KVP ABS.

[@NotDoingThisToday]

Perfect! Thanks again!

[@scottcorn]

You're welcome!

[@phillysupra]

tip: buy an 18 dollar bmg extruder from amazon and use all the internals. no need to buy anything individually. i mean literally every part is the exact same. only difference is the front and back printed abs housings.

[@scottcorn]

Cool, thank you

[@GoodEnough030]

is that red lizard k1?

[@scottcorn]

Sort of. It is what it was called before all the name changes. I bought it direct from China. It's also a high flow.

[@GoodEnough030]

@@scottcorn your videos are so helpful though i dont have voron I'll build it next month

[@scottcorn]

Cool, they are fun to build.

[@giuseppemigliaccio4539]

meraviglioso complimenti!!!!

[@scottcorn]

Grazie

[@OriOnTheIguanaHunter]

I did changed the wiring as you explain at the beginning but this way I have the cables going really close by the heater block. I was watching Nero installing it here kzbin.info/www/bejne/jX7IhYBviKdrgMU and he was actually installing it using the other way... I still don't understand why this way is better, I'm very happy with the cable going all around the heater block .... Could you explain to me why this is better compared with the initial way you did this?... and also I see Nero installing the other way

[@scottcorn]

With the front of the heater block facing forward (original way) the heater block is closer to the inductive probe. The generic probes started being made out of cheaper plastic and melt from the heat. I bought mine a year ago and even with the heater block reversed it still melted pretty quickly. I went to a klicky probe in later videos. I can't advise you on how much the Omron inductive probes melt as I've never had one. All I can really say is the further the heat of the block can be from the probe, the better off you will be. If you have a generic probe, be prepared for it to melt no matter how you do it .

[@OriOnTheIguanaHunter]

@@scottcorn I understand the reversing of the block, that makes sense, to me what was not clear is why inserting the cable on the other side, my cable is going around the heat block and I have to be very careful it doesn't touch it (maybe it doesn't matter if it does) but on the other hand if I insert the cable from the same side as the other, both cable end up going up and not around the heater block and the result is a very clean cable without the possibility of ever touching the heater block, that's how Nero did on his video. I asked on Discord, and someone replied that having the cable between the heater block and the probe should help by shielding the probe from heat, because the cable is on the way it will help with that, I found that explanation also valid, I'm just not sure if the cable can melt by touching the heater block, maybe not because it's silicone but again my first reaction was ... .ouchhh.. Scott thanks let me tell you, you have done a great job putting this videos together. I've been checking multiple videos online but your guide is the best!

[@scottcorn]

Thank you. I would prefer the wires not touch the block any more than it has to, but in the end it probably doesn't matter too much. I'm going to a Revo Voron one of these days. I'm just waiting on the hardened nozzle to be released. I'm building a Black Box printer and I need to print some PC carbon fiber parts.

[@Subpilot1]

@@OriOnTheIguanaHunter Yes, I just inserted the heater and thermistor from the other side and it is great. I don't understand why the OP routed cables like he did.

[@lcdconsultant5252]

How come nobody has put the PTFE tube in and measured the 10mm gap and then removed the tube and told us how long it is? A lot easier to just say how long it is instead of all this calculated measurement. If its different for different hotends, then say what it is for each we know of.

[@scottcorn]

Yes, the only reason I see to only measure up is it is a more variable but critical measurement. There may be some deviance where the bottom is. That was my thought for not just saying cut it this long. At that point I knew what it was. It could also be that everyone documenting it thinks that and it's not true. IDK lol

[@michaellindborg1510]

Great series, but would be so much better if you narrated and lost the horrible music.

[@scottcorn]

I'm just not set up for the voiceover right now. It would require a lot of post processing to not sound awful. Maybe in future builds I'll have the sound improved. Not sure about my voice. Kind of old and worn out. lol

[@michaellindborg1510]

@@scottcorn I am sure it’s fine but no worries, I’ll just turn down the volume 😊