Votol Em-150 Controller Wiring for Brushless motor em150 ebike Surron

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Adventure Brad

Жыл бұрын

My first video covering wiring and setting up a Votol em-150

Пікірлер: 15

@cebulafpv4768 Жыл бұрын

Very usefull video, can't wait for tutorial of setting it up in the programm 😁

@fiveleafcloverfpv4445 9 ай бұрын

Thank you for explanation. I was hooking up my 45A votol with a spare cable harness because the original didn't have any connection made for it. That didn't work. So today I was thinking Oh yeah probably you will need to connect the ignition /e-lock wire first to activate the controller. Wasn't sure if it was this and also not sure if it needs to be grounded or on battery main but It's probably battery voltage like you said. I will measure it first to be sure. Hopefully I can read my controller to backup it. It's from a V28 threewheel scooter 72V. Local dealer said it's not possible to connect. We'll see that 😅 Later I'll make some extra pins on the original cable harness and add the debug connector to an easy location.

@fiveleafcloverfpv4445 9 ай бұрын

Connecting the e-lock wire worked to get it online. But don't know if it's 72V or ground. Didn't measure voltage on it. So just connected the original e-lock (ignition) pin strait to the pruple/grey e-lock wire on the cable harness instead. Could write data but for some rest my 3 way switch didn't work anymore. Changed high gear to SW. After that reverse worked as intended but have to toggle between low/high tp change the setting instead of adjusting the switch to low or high. Weird or it's because the switch isn't connected during reading /writing. But happy to get the original settings just incase the controller blowup some day.

@imho7250 9 ай бұрын

Ignition wire should be battery voltage, typically installed after the key, but for bench testing straight from bat (+) will work. It should be from the same battery that is connected to controller DC because if you ever mess with the alarm and remote start, that functions by backfeeding battery voltage through the ignition wire which activates the controller and feeds all the accessories even with the key off. So clearly you want the voltage on both ends being from the same source. If your 3-speed switch didn’t work either it was wired wrong or someone has screwed up the port settings. Since we know the center terminal of the switch goes to ground, and in speed 2 position nothing is connected, so default speed (MiD) will be active. When you move the switch to speed 1, the wire connected to the port set for low speed will be connected to ground and activate low speed. Similarly high speed wire is connected to ground when speed 3 is selected. Many of the ports are set for ON/OFF pull down to activate, and you can select from the dropdown list any of the ON/OFF functions (Low, high, sport, low brake, cruise, reverse, etc). Its probably best to start with a factory configuration file to fix any port settings that were screwed up, then you can use a multimeter to find the wires sending out a 3-5v reference signal, but not the red 5v supply for throttle. With the program running on the display page you can see each function as it’s activated. One by one you would ground the signal wires and watch the display page to see which got activated. Label each wire with its port number because later you may decide to change the function of that wire. So if you just label it “low brake”, and later you decide you will use that wire for reverse, you will be lost on which port to change. The port set to high brake will be looking for 12v+ up to battery voltage, but it’s not very safe to connect each wire to battery positive. So if you just want to verify that port you can change it to another basic function (low, high, low brake) and then ground that wire and see if its going to the port that was previously high brake. Obviously you can only use either low brake or high brake effectively, so whichever one you don’t use can be reassigned for another basic function that doesn’t already have a wire and port set for that. The controller comes set and labelled for basic installation but any unused ON/OFF function can be used for any other ON/OFF functions. Side stand safety switch/park, cruise control, reverse, are available.

@musicly9028 9 ай бұрын

Is it possible to use with programming or using the cable when it is new.

@okaskan 10 ай бұрын

Mr Brad, I respect your work on EV components and watch your videos carefully. I own a Votol EM-70 that has identical connection with yours except lacking of the anti theft port. I’m gonna install it on my e-chopper nowadays. For the no-CAN USB connection to PC, the manual says that e-lock should be connected to the battery (+). My questions are : 1. How should the connection be made? 2. After programming is complete, will the connection to the battery stay the same or do I need to change anything? 3. Isn’t the low-voltage cable too narrow for 72v 40amps of battery power ? Thanks in advance for taking your time!