#VW

How to rectify your VAG group 1.2 tsi engine that has the EPC light comes on and lack of power when accelerating first check that the boost pressure actuator is not seized check if it’s moving if not replace it and if that doesn’t cure it you will have to replace the turbo charger links in the video of how to carry out this process tanks for watching

[@joncoggins8729]

Nice video , many thanks 😁

[@alextomlinson]

For anyone that has EPC & engine light on and code P00AF... Just fixed mine with some brute force and WD-40. So if you lean right over the engine you should be able to see the actuator pin just tucked away behind the engine. If you grab the pin with your right hand and pull it over to the right, whilst simultaneously twisting the pivot side with your left hand, you can get it to unstick. Top tip: do this dry first as you'll need all the grip you can get. There is a point on the actuator rod that it gets wider, grip this area and pull to the right while twisting the other side. Not sure which direction to twist. Do both. If you've got movement, great. Spray WD-40 using one of those cans with the straw. Spray directly on the pin itself where it goes into the housing, spray all over the pivot end. Give it 5-10 mins to penetrate. Repeat the yanking & twisting to lube her up. Spray some more WD-40 for good measure and start the engine. EPC light & engine light should go OFF if it's moving and unstuck and your car turbo boost should be working again. Oh and P.S do this while the engine is COLD. Despite being stuck the pivot end gets red hot

[@NitulescuRares]

Hello, I hope you are well. I also suffered the problem with the blocked pivot from the actuator and because I can't find a mechanic who can solve the problem, I want to do exactly what you said. After you unlocked, did the problem reappear or was it completely resolved? Also, after you used wd-40, did you apply something else to grease the area? Also if I push towards the actuator can I damage it?

[@alextomlinson]

@@NitulescuRares I only had to do it once and it has been fine ever since. To clarify, are you sure the turbo actuator pin did unstick? It doesn’t move back and forth much, maybe an inch or so. If it’s moving freely(albeit stiff) when you pull it sideways and you can feel with your other hand that the pivot end on the other side is twisting when you move the pin then it’s not stuck. I sprayed WD-40 all over the thing but no other lubricant. I believe the turbo actuator is actually supposed to be free of lubricant and operates dry, but seeing as it had seized up I assumed corrosion would have occurred so used WD-40 to loosen that up as much as possible. If it does move, does your EPC & engine light go off? Does your turbo boost come back for a while before the problem returns? If so you might have a faulty turbo actuator that needs replacing. Regarding damage, I couldn’t possibly get enough grip or sideways force using just my hands to cause any damage. I could barely grip onto the pin. Luckily it gets thicker halfway across so I was able to pull on the part where it gets thicker while twisting the pivot. The combination provided enough force to move it. That coupled with the tight space where I could barely get my arms behind the engine made it difficult to generate force so I doubt you could damage it. Unless of course you push down on it and manage to bend the pin, or you’re using tools, maybe then it’s possible to cause damage

[@alextomlinson]

@@NitulescuRares Just done some more digging and I think it’s actually just the pivot end that gets seized due to either corrosion or tight fitting but most likely a combination of both. Online the recommendation is to get rid of as much rust as possible with rust penetrator spray and apply grease with Loctite LB-8009 1300C high temp grease. As other greases with different bases and temperature allowances bake on and harden up. I would apply grease when cold, get it nice and hot and apply more when it’s hot. Then keep repeating the process until the grease has seeped into the pivot linkage enough to prevent it from seizing up again. If the problem persists then there are other fixes recommended such as disassembly, cleaning, sanding, greasing. Or replacement turbo actuator. I’ll see if I can post what I’m reading although links get removed by KZbin so you might have to be creative and put the parts together in a web browser to make the web link work

[@alextomlinson]

@@NitulescuRares Read your comment again. I see you haven’t done it yet and are just checking whether or not it fixed the issue for me permanently and whether or not it can cause damage? To answer your question, yes it was a fix for me the issue has not returned. And no I don’t believe it can cause damage. There are some cases of the pin breaking off due to corrosion, but I don’t think you can do this with your bare hands and I believe if you allow the WD-40 to penetrate overnight and focus on freeing the pivot end it can reduce any chances of that happening. Although that’s not what I did at all. I just pulled the pin towards the actuator with all my strength while also twisting the pivot end with all my strength and it got unstuck. Not that you’ve got much to lose if the thing doesn’t work as it is. The risk of damaging it is probably worth it as a mechanic will probably replace the whole actuator or maybe even the whole turbo unit and actuator. I didn’t apply any grease to the pivot after it was free, just WD-40. But online it recommends applying a 1300C or higher calcium or graphite based grease. But I would only do that if the problem kept returning. Unless you have some 1300C graphite or calcium based grease laying around.

[@alextomlinson]

@@NitulescuRares I will post the link to the forum post in subsequent comments. It might be removed by youtube so I’ll try to post it in segments or disguised lol. Focus on the information about greasing and ignore what you can’t understand such as technical info. Look at the photo of the actuator linkage to get an idea of where to twist, where to apply the WD-40, and grease if need be.

[@mipi4324]

Hi great video thanks, what purpose has the big hole right by the cold side turbin that connects to the motor?

[@1thedazzler]

Hey Tommy, get the biggest hammer you can find and keep smacking that sheet of metal while I put my microphone in my pocket while recoding a video 😂😂😂 🤐

[@seanrichards2962]

I’m a mechanic and my mums has went on her polo don’t have the car here with me . The light takes about 10 min to come on when your driving the car they are saying what’s the chances I can get it out with the turbo in place and what’s the odds that a good clean and high temp grease will revive it without me having to make them buy a new one ?

[@monacocross4241]

how you fix ? change all part ? thanks

[@juhajalonen1239]

Thanks for the great info, did this engine had a lot of miles on it?

[@g_a_bofficial]

64,000 ish this is a common fault on all of these 1.2 turbocharged Volkwagen Audi and Skoda models

[@g_a_bofficial]

Yes apparently all these 1.2 TSI engines

[@akramsublouban6384]

My 2015 1.2 tsi Skoda Yeti doesn't have any faults. However, when accelerating from rest, the turbo doesn't kick in the first 3 seconds. Could that be a sign of a failed waste gate?

[@stephendurrant4699]

The experience I’ve had pin originally pin seized actuator to waste gate lever after a period of time done the actuator in

[@cavitoncel1712]

The service offered turbo repair for the epc problem, what do you think is the problem, although weskeyt and valve were made

[@g_a_bofficial]

Well this car had 2 problem first thing was the turbo actuator that was seized and the flap in the turbo was sticking when the vehicles exhaust manifold get hot burn out the turbo actuator so I had to change both

[@cavitoncel1712]

@@g_a_bofficial Thank you for the information you have given, but I think my problem is not the turbo because the service said that if the turbines in the turbo are replaced, the problem will be solved.

[@g_a_bofficial]

If the turbine wheel inside the turbo is fault with excessive noise/ movement then yeah

[@XMotionVideos]

@@g_a_bofficial with the flap sticking, can it not just be cleaned up / grinded?

[@iakovosvoyiatzoglou]

Nice video, i have the cbzb engine 1.2 tsi and a p0049 fault, could it be the actuator, and should it be complete close when the car is of? Thanks in advance.

[@g_a_bofficial]

The waste gate should be completely close otherwise the Actuator could be stick or not working

[@iakovosvoyiatzoglou]

@@g_a_bofficial when i turn off the car the actuator seems that it can go back 3-4 mm more , so the waste gate flaper i presume. I have a p0049 fault and i was suspicious about the electronic actuator behaviour, it should be faulty then.Thanks you alot for your consideration!

[@stephendurrant4699]

@@iakovosvoyiatzoglou check the pin which is located on the end of the actuator they tend to seize up

[@iakovosvoyiatzoglou]

I change the turbine and the actuator too with a new ane but i did not reinstall the 03F 145 371 A - spacer washer and the problem still exists?

[@stephendurrant4699]

@@iakovosvoyiatzoglou disconnect the actuator if you have access to a diagnostic access Active test and the diagnostic will move the actuator (it’s shown as Exhaust bypass valve )

[@adememir6161]

Sharing is very nice, but where can we find the actuator?

[@g_a_bofficial]

It’s right in front of your on the picture with the rod connected to it

[@cavitoncel1712]

hello, i had the same problem in my car, wesgeyt has changed, now we connected it to the machine, it gives a turbo failure p334B00 turbo charger supply golf 1,2 tsi

[@g_a_bofficial]

Change the turbo the flap inside gets seized when the manifold get hot

[@farazboiii7879]

Hi i only have my epc light indicatin on the dash wen i scanned it showed that my wastegate actuator is faulty and if i replace it will my car come out of limp mode? Was it the same for u

[@g_a_bofficial]

Check if the wast gate is working if it not I would replace it

[@chris3175]

How do you diagnose this? I have this problem?

[@chris3175]

I get p2263 come up goes into limp mode and says stop start not working on the dash if I turn it of and back on the car works but as soon as it slows down again goes back into limp mode every where I'm looking online says its this but I ain't a mechanic and every where near me just says change the turbo

[@shahidzaman001]

Hello sir I got seat ibiza fr 2021 1 ltr and got on dash particulate filter regeneration required consult vehicle wallet. Can u give me advice please thanks

[@g_a_bofficial]

Sound like you’re car need a regeneration you can do this by driving your car for 1 hours nonstop and this should fix the issue otherwise you will need a diagnostic tool to do this if you don’t know what your doing take it to a qualified professional

[@stephendurrant4699]

First see if your DPF sensor is working if you have access to a diagnostic laptop follow these steps locate live date / particulate pressure with just the ignition on the readings on the differential pressure sensor should read 0 when you start the car it should read between 0 and 10 mill bars if it more a Regen is needed

[@g_a_bofficial]

Hi pal have got a subscription available on my channel if you want to get information don’t for get to join the subscription this will help my channel to grow

[@stephendurrant4699]

Hi Just stripped out to find pin seized in boost flap lever,,, un siezed 200 miles later siezed again ????????????

[@g_a_bofficial]

What pin are you talking about

[@stephendurrant4699]

@@g_a_bofficial pin on the end of the actuator connected to the waste gate lever

[@paveltarasenko5486]

good afternoon. what was the problem? were there any mistakes?

[@g_a_bofficial]

The problem was the Turbo actuator and then I found out that after the manifold get hot the flap seizes up putting the turbo actuator under stress so I had the replace the turbo as well carried out a long road test and it was all ok

[@paveltarasenko5486]

@@g_a_bofficial thank you

[@g_a_bofficial]

You’re welcome

[@alextomlinson]

​@@g_a_bofficialWhat I found interesting is.. Even though the actuator had seized. Which was giving me no boost and error P00AF. The pivot side of the mechanism was red hot after driving the car. Is this the manifold heat you speak of directly heating up the flap? I did manage to free up the actuator rod by yanking at the same time as twisting the pivot. No disassembly required. Maybe I got lucky. Or do you think there is a damaged flap or something due to the overheating? If so what should I look out for? Car seems to be driving ok

[@naveenprinters2733]

hi sir, pavan from Bangalore I have 1.2 polo TDI 2011 model. Turbo actuator is not working and white smoke is coming from silencer mechanic told Turbo Actuator is problem now waht is the problem pls let me know Watting for your repaly

[@g_a_bofficial]

Are you losing power when driving

[@naveenprinters2733]

@@g_a_bofficial yes sir but pick up is not there

[@g_a_bofficial]

I wouldn’t be able to tell you what is exactly the problem without looking at the vehicle myself I would find out why your mechanic said it was the Actuator first

[@naveenprinters2733]

@@g_a_bofficial turbo Actuator is not taking air form pipe and white smoke is coming form silencer

[@Mustafa-on7sb]

Hi, I have a problem my polo 2016 1.2tsi bmt dsg. 53000km I just bought this car . Epc light warning and start-stop faulty is always on display. And I find in faulty code OBD2 05463 (P1557) Charge Pressure Control: Positive Deviation. And I think car is not in limp mode, performance is good for me. Can you a advise ?

[@g_a_bofficial]

Check the charge pressure control hoses if they are all ok get a new charge pressure control for you start stop check if you have a stop start battery and that it’s is charged to a minimum of 80%

[@Mustafa-on7sb]

@@g_a_bofficial thank you for your reply. Battery is agm and charge level is good. In my opion start stop faulty reason is epc light. I watched hoses but I dont see any problem(maybe there is problem can i sure?). What is Charge pressure control ? Wastegate actutor or n75 valve etc ? 1.2 tsi gasoline engine i cant find location charge pressure control.

[@g_a_bofficial]

Is it a start stop battery you need it find that out in relation the rest of the things you’re trying to say I can’t understand exactly what you’re trying to say please elaborate

[@Mustafa-on7sb]

Yes it is a start stop battery. I check hoses (I don't see any crack) and clean map sensor and throttle body (there is motor oil ) . Also waste actutor move starting 3-4mm and back. But epc light is never close, I am trying to clear command in obd 0.5-1 second epc immediately again .

[@SunnyFLBoy]

Is it possible to remove the actuator without removing the turbocharger?

[@g_a_bofficial]

Yes if you know what your doing

[@stephendurrant4699]

Depending where the clip is which connects the actuator to the waste gate

[@jimslater671]

Yes, you have to rely on your fingers a lot and a small mirror is helpful , the real problem is removing the circlip, it's virtually impossible to replace it so I didn't bother a couple of years ago and the turbo is still working. I think they put the circlip on just to increase the difficulty and get more trade at their garages when a fault develops.

[@leandrikok35]

Where did you get the actuator

[@g_a_bofficial]

Volkswagen

[@leandrikok35]

@@g_a_bofficial i'v been searching high and low and nobody seems to have this actuator..what do they charge for an actuator

[@CourtneyKarl]

Worst audio ever