VW Thick Wall 88’s Comparison For 1700 Build

[@48busman]

I didn't realize these were available. Thanks guys!

[@bomberobus]

Yup, they seem great for when you can’t get a case bored but still want some extra CC!

[@vwsandvettes3253]

Nice comparison. Like you said those 88's are beautiful!

[@SanDiego_VDubLife]

Great videos guys. Wow only a couple of years. I’ve been working on these things for over 20 years but never really got deep into the technical aspects of things. Thanks for sharing. I also have slip in jugs. I think mine are 87. Been a long time so I forget.

[@bomberobus]

Wellllllll we had some mechanical inclination before VW’s, just had to wrap our heads around the Aircooled part….still learning always will be. Much respect to your decades of dubbin!

[@benkrom2737]

Bottom lip of cylinders is basically just a shuffle pin and a guide for path of piston to start its work again. Unless you damaged your piston you will always find cross hatching still in bottom of cylinder. And speaking of shuffle pins, putting shuffle pins in case halves takes the burden off the 2 end bearing and corrects the problem throughout the whole length of case. Just a tib bit 😁

[@bomberobus]

That’s a great way to conceptualize the cylinder, as a giant shuffle pin! Of course with some extra duties too. I look forward to the day if and when I could buy a new case with shuffle pins, and other bells and whistles. We can’t get any machine work around here for anything.

[@jackfreeman4961]

I have a 1500 that runs good. Have you heard of anyone putting these on without splitting the case? I also plan on using the empi 34s.

[@bomberobus]

The honest answer is yes it’s been done and will be done again. There’s a lot of variables like time, money, how much and how hard you drive etc. No doubt a bottom end rebuild would be best, but we do what we can. Good luck with whatever you do!

[@ClassicTV4U]

I had a set of 88mm slip in P&Cs installed on my '73 KG many years ago; nothing special just dual 34 Webers and an 009 distributor. Budget at the time couldn't afford new heads, so I had the builder install used ones with the necessary machine work. Car ran like a champ for years until the carbs started going out of sync and the used heads (BIG MISTAKE I NOW REALIZE) caused the car to lose compression. This video has inspired me greatly, but I need to confirm: Will I need to buy heads that are bored for 92mm even though my P&Cs are 88s just like you have? And if so, will they just bolt on with no additional work to the case? Thanks again and good luck with all those vintage VWs!

[@bomberobus]

‘73 KG sweet! If you have “THICK WALLED” 88mm P&C’s, then the case doesn’t need to opened up (bored), because that part of the cylinder that slips into the case is thinner than normal, which seems acceptable since it is inside the case. However, the other side of the cylinder that goes into the head is thicker than normal, and needs heads that are big enough for 92mm. So, yes you would need to buy heads that are bored 92mm, but there’s no additional work to the case. Aircooled.Net has a really great article on building an 1800 which is my exact engine. Best wishes if you go for it! www.aircooled.net/1800cc-vw-engine-no-machine-combo/

[@ClassicTV4U]

@@bomberobus Thanks for the reply. The kit that I purchased LONG AGO was the "Econo Kit from CB Performance with the 88s and I paid extra to have a counterweighted 69mm crankshaft. I plan on pulling the engine out later on because I want to replace the heads (regardless of condition) with some NEW higher flow ones. But, when I remove the heads and actually look at the cylinder side that goes into the head, is there a certain measurement that determines whether or not it is THICK WALLED? I know that "slip in" only refers to the cylinder end that goes into the case. Was there ever such an 88mm P&C kit that was thin on the "head" side as well? I'd rather buy larger heads than get stock sized ones and have to get 'em machined. Thanks again.

[@patrickmclaughlin6013]

So happy your brother's engine detonated .... wait, that doesn't sound right ... looking forward to the build! Same 69mm crank? Cam? Engle 110? Chromally (spelling?) push rods? 1.25 rockers?

[@bomberobus]

😂I understand. Yes, stock crank, 110 cam, chromoly push rods (undecided), and stock rockers (for now)🤷🏻‍♂️. I think some of the short block build was in the 110 cam video, and some of the long block vid will be after completion. It’ll also explain why I think the engine may have went kaput.

[@troyhiett1885]

You shouldnt run a 110 engle with 1.25 rockers a c35 would be better. Less aggressive cam ramps

[@patmclaughlin7401]

@@troyhiett1885 Thanks for the tip Troy.

[@ahernandez9860]

Going from a stock 1600 to these 88 thick wall, do pushrods require being changed? I always adjusted my valves at .006 and after shop did head work to accomodate these thick wall 88s he said i had to adjustvat .004. Compression he said was now 8.75-1.

[@bomberobus]

I was able to use my stock PR’s, even with a 74mm stoked cranked, and minimal shimming of the rocker stands, but and stock ratio rockers. .004 valve adjustment seems good for your scenario…but I’m not that builder. You must be excited about your engine! I hope you enjoy the extra push!

[@ahernandez9860]

@bomberobus sadly have worked on this car more than driven. Trying workout issues in order to do a 200 mile cross island cruise. Oil leaks from oil pump and behind crank pulley got me pulling my hair out now but this is what we sign up for. Thanks for info on pr. I think best to stay with his recommendations and will always wonder should I be at .006

[@trevcessna1723]

Hey can you use these with stock connecting rods, crankshaft and cam? Good info thanks.

[@bomberobus]

Yes. If all of those components are in good shape. Still have to get new pistons to fit the cylinders though, and new heads opened up for 90.5. The case doesn’t need to be bored. We built a nice 1679cc like that.

[@trevcessna1723]

What do you mean “still have to get pistons to fit the cylinders “? If I’m buying a set of thick wall 88’s is my plan, I have a new stock crank, rods, cam and lifters.

[@bomberobus]

When you said all your stuff was stock I thought you might also have the stock 85.5 pistons too. Sounded like maybe you just got your hands on some 88 cylinders and still had stock 85.5 pistons. If you bought the 88 piston and cylinder kit together you’re GTG.

[@trevcessna1723]

Hey Mike thanks so much!

[@bomberobus]

No problem. Have fun with the build.

[@1974pieter]

The thick wall 88s on top is just over 5mm thick...thicker on top as the standard 85.5mm for 1600...the 87mm walls are too thin and over time causing the cylinders to warp due to being so thin on top...👍

[@bomberobus]

You know what they say……quickest way to lower the lifespan of an aircooled engine is to start thinning out the cylinder walls. Don’t remember where I heard that but it’s true!