VZ Commodore Ignition Lock Barrel Repair

[@gardenwaster]

Just finished this repair, this guide really helped also I might add taking the key fob off and holding the key blank with pliers whilst tapping helped release the lock, thanks again. BTW lock barrel kit from Holden was $170, if you can wait a few days only 50 online

[@LongPeter]

@@gardenwaster glad it helped! Oh wow, they’ve put the price up a fair bit. Back when I did that one, the barrel was $70 over the counter at a local dealership. It was close enough to the online price that I was happy to pay a little extra to have it right away.

[@UpsideDownYuGiOh]

Cheers big ears, one of the most informative and thorough tutorials I've come across all without hardly a word spoken.

[@LongPeter]

I think the most dialogue in the whole thing is my nephew in the background complaining about not having enough time to read Plato 😜

[@io4439]

I just did my Commodore VY SS2 thankyou very much for the helpful guide. Just an extra tip for the comments. When re-assembling the plastic housing that sits behind the wheel, there are 2 metal guide pins on the underside of the steering column that must seat correctly into the holes situated on the lower plastic section. Cheers.

[@LongPeter]

@@io4439 no problem, and thanks for adding the extra knowledge!

[@maccaberry1041]

Thankyou. The ONLY video on youtube that shows that you have to use a screwdriver to retract the steering lock (press it down) 16:05 before the new lock barrel will push in all the way.

[@LongPeter]

Glad it was some help :)

[@jac7770]

Thank you LP for the great guide and entertaining video! Guided me through process very well and the Crewman is back on the road.

[@LongPeter]

Thanks, glad to hear it :)

[@vsberlina3712]

Very helpful video. Probably the best I came across. Educational and humorous. Thanks for taking the time to make and upload.

[@LongPeter]

Thanks, glad it educated and amused :)

[@paulsoutbackgardenaustrali7674]

@@LongPeter hey peter...i need do same to my 1997 vt....guess the barrel is same as yours to do.thnx

[@LongPeter]

@@paulsoutbackgardenaustrali7674 Hi Paul, sorry, I don't know if it is the same. My brother had a VT but I never had to fix that one.

[@paulsoutbackgardenaustrali7674]

@@LongPeter ahh...at least I hope it's similar..part should be here end nxt week..I'm on the farm ain't going anywhere...thnx

[@LongPeter]

@@paulsoutbackgardenaustrali7674 Yes, hopefully. Best of luck getting it sorted out!

[@shaunreynolds2081]

Mate thanks so much for making this video. Very clear and easy to follow......and a few funny bits added in too for bonus 😂. Just sorted my VY ignition in around 30 minutes. It works great 👍🏻.

[@LongPeter]

Glad you got some use/enjoyment out of it :)

[@jeffreynichols803]

Thanks, I followed your video and fixed my ignition. Awesome. I didn’t need to remove any of the shrouds to do the job. Just the key surround.

[@peninsulaautoservice2559]

Not only was this very entertaining but the best on how to put a new ignition barrel video I've seen.

[@LongPeter]

Thanks! I only decided to film it because the others I had watched were all missing details. One said you had to remove the old barrel by smashing a screwdriver into it with a hammer :s

[@Yeungerz]

Thanks mate, helped me out on my VZ loved it when you gave it the bird 2:44

[@LongPeter]

Cheers!

[@warwickirving4923]

Excellent tutorial. Just replaced the barrel in my VZ. Pin snapped off at the switch. Your vid saved me a headache & $$, awesome job👍🏻

[@LongPeter]

Thanks, glad it helped :)

[@ebaycomtechwolrdscammerfra1561]

Your video is so clear and very impressive that You're a talented person!!!!!!!! Mate, thank you again! i just started my VT.

[@philhattley7444]

Still saving people - thank you

[@LongPeter]

Good to know! :)

[@Carl_Georg]

Thanks for this! I just replaced my ignition barrel with the help of this video.

[@simoncosta7111]

So good exelent video exactly the right amount of detail helpfull and a joy to watch a considerable visual explanation Well done sir hat's off

[@bigbad253]

Nice work - thank you. Good to see that I am not the only one who loses some skin and sheds some blood when they reach under a bonnet or dashboard...🩹

[@emanuelgalea2424]

Just wanted to say a big thank you for this video it helped me a lot.

[@LongPeter]

Great!

[@TheSilversheeps]

Yah..16:08-16:25 pull tab down insert in go position rotate backwards too off then push in to start position =all go awesome it works thanks!

[@King_Hatrex]

Life saver GTOS are rare here thank you

[@saravanar7140]

Too Good video - Thanks man.. more than the tech part, I loved the mixing - cheers..

[@dave6199]

Thankyou for the video and for keeping it real

[@HappyfoxBiz]

I needed this video as of 18 months ago, still do. Managed to get mine working with graphite but every so often I get the sticking, might have to set aside a day to do everything and down a few bourbons to bother with it, just one of those things where it's fiddly, but unless I want to shell out more than my car is worth ($750) I best DIY it. Sticks in winter, so I best get it done soon

[@LongPeter]

Wow, good work keeping it going that long. In our case, once it started jamming it almost never worked. I didn't particularly want to shell out for a mechanic to do it either. Good luck with the fix!

[@Tom.N]

Fantastic video mate.

[@LongPeter]

Tom N Thanks :)

[@daiminnathan5989]

Thanks mate you helped me with my VY

[@daiminnathan5989]

Also i would like to add that my numbers were upside down on some and even if i orientated them all the same way it didn’t make sense only by comparing them i did notice the 7 was actually a 1. In the end i inserted each brass key one by one when it wouldn’t turn i would swap it out with another that looked similar until it did turn and continued until complete

[@LongPeter]

@@daiminnathan5989 Yes, in the leftovers, I had quite a few stamped upside-down.

[@edhingeley6933]

The best available on you tube.Although it might have been in jest never hammer any thing like the key in the lock . Cause any component on the key PCB to dislodge (old solder joints) and you will be replacing that as well.

[@LongPeter]

Thanks! Yes, that’s a point. The banging on the end of the key was mainly about trying to bump the wafers in the lock in order to make them line up and turn one final time, but probably best to keep it to a minimum.

[@TheDude666dude666]

Excellent how to mate especially loved giving it the finger im sure I'll end up doing the same, just got mine in the mail cheers!

[@LongPeter]

Thanks! Hope the install goes smoothly for you :)

[@michaelrepanti8049]

Thank You From The States !!!

[@DorianMenard]

Thanks buddy Very handy video

[@LongPeter]

Glad it helped :)

[@shontelletaylor8524]

Very helpful video thnx

[@ebaycomtechwolrdscammerfra1561]

you are genius! thank you! that's very helpful.

[@Hitman-ds1ei]

The outer wedge shaped piece is a carryover from earlier models without transponder key so its harder to remove when locked like say with a slide hammer so just leave it out makes lock action smoother jmo

[@charmainerule82]

Had my ignition locked up only 2 years after the Holden dealership replaced the whole thing after another lock up. This time I decided to do it myself. Looked at your video, bought the parts, and voila, and I am a girl lol, so anyone can do it. HSV XU6 VT is going again, yeah!!!! Thankyou.

[@LongPeter]

Nice! Glad you gave it a go :) Hey, I know plenty of girls who can do things that I can't.

[@charmainerule82]

@@LongPeter currently I'm restoring a Porsche 1961 356, but locksmith stuff is black magic. Had to rebuild the locks on Miss Daisy (the 356) but they were childs play compared to the HSV.

[@LongPeter]

@@charmainerule82 oh, very cool! I don't have the time or disposable income for restoring cars. I have almost finished restoring a balance bike though… :p

[@trissoshaveago3353]

Thanks mate real helper 👍

[@Tony-ns4rn]

Ok so I pay a professional great video

[@LongPeter]

Thanks :) If you're not a fan of fiddly puzzles then yes, a professional is the way to go.

[@benjaminroberts1221]

Thanks heaps mate really helped me out

[@LongPeter]

Great, glad to hear it :)

[@theclass2809]

Thank you for your time bro and efforts to help us all. Much appreciated... long live the Holden Commodore

[@johnva7]

All unreliable compared to major manufacturers like Toyota

[@-Crikey]

thanx mate great vid really helped me out legend

[@alanford9713]

Thanks mate! 😄👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 Cheers 🍺

[@100reality2]

Top video mate I don't know if I can be bothered the price Holden charge for a new barrel is probably $60 to $100 a locksmith will come and do it for $180 and it takes them 5 min and get warranty.

[@LongPeter]

That's fair. I did it myself for the satisfaction of doing it, as much as anything else. Man, you have cheap locksmiths in your area!

[@scetchport]

Thanks for this vid. I'm atm trying to jiggle the key onto acc to remove barrel in 2004 ra rodeo. Took half hour last time....was 4th time,i drove ute and turned key off when i got to my destination....dumbass....i forgot. If left on acc i could lock doors with 2nd key. Might need to drill. Enjoyed your humor in a stressful situation. 🤣👍👍

[@LongPeter]

No worries, glad you enjoyed it and I hope it is useful when you get around to fixing it. :) The bang-on-the-end-of-the-key trick worked three times for me and got harder each time. There are some additional comments with time codes in the description, if anything isn't obvious in the video.

[@axionhk]

Awesome work lol funny video too. Can I just send you my barrel to change it ha ha?

[@LongPeter]

Thanks! Haha, better not - I now have kids absorbing all of my spare time :p It's not too tricky though. If you like simple puzzles, I'm sure you'll manage :)

[@gregdee530]

Great info, worked for me.

[@TheZephyr6]

Very helpful, ta

[@otekaieke111]

The best how to by far ! Genuine GM parts made in china and distributed in AU , That bit Ya gota laugh though :-)

[@LongPeter]

Thanks :) Hope it was helpful!

[@otekaieke111]

@@LongPeter $75 all up installed for kiwi dollar NZ not bad ,I supplied the parts $100 trade price ,should've been better but anyways removed the panels myself and thanks to you probably saved alot more ,they tried to up sell at the locksmiths with new blades etc as soon as I let them know that im well informed they bowed down somewhat and took on board what I said about lubrication etc no dry fit thanks ,Keep up the good work mate.

[@hunterweeks3682]

haha excellent video, funny too :)

[@-paulmp]

Just fixed mine... you have no idea how much those opposite light switches bothered me in your video though 😂

[@LongPeter]

Oh, that bothers me too. It's because one of them is double-switched. I really should have re-shot that.

[@RussellBooth1977]

I built up to the 3rd one in my dads 2000 model VX Commodore Acclaim as the one that a local auto electrician built up failed, the one I have to build up now is for my 5.7 litre V8 VY SS Commodore as the rear spring broke in half which was causing the steering wheel not to lock when the key was removed in the lock position. The problem was I couldn't get the ignition barrel back in even in the position where the aluminium latch is flush with the lock cylinder been body (in the on or 2 position),the latch broke in half,so I have to order a new lock cylinder kit for it,the lock barrel is also a bit worn with the car being 16 1/2 years & 343,004 kilometres old. They are available on eBay for about $37AUD aftermarket, it doesn't matter if it's OEM or not as they all come from the same place - China,so,they all probably come from the same factory. I assume your mother was driving an old V6 model in the video,they're (the Buick V6) more like a 30 year old horse in comparison to the alloy V6 & V8 engines !

[@LongPeter]

Sorry, only just noticed this comment 5 months late :) The older brown sedan was sometimes a V5 and sometimes an inline 3 cyl, depending on the weather. Thankfully that one has gone to the land of ghosts and winds. Some of the parts I looked at online did look like slightly different, non-genuine alternatives but that's no comment on their quality. The OEM parts are a bit junky to start with. My father in law owned the blue wagon (subject of the video) before my mum and he had to get the lock barrel replaced at least once.

[@razeezar]

Cheers for the vid! I replaced my VX barrel about 4 years ago. All good until recently starting to get stuck so I reckon I need to replace it again. Thing is, when I put the replacement barrel in last time, I kind of didn't line up the holes on the outside where the pick goes in to release the barrel. Oops! Any tips, before I go breaking something?

[@LongPeter]

I wouldn't have thought it would go in in the wrong orientation. The barrel has to be in the ACC position for it to release and it seemed the same was true reinstalling it. If you've tried it with the key in all positions, I'm not sure I could help any further.

[@razeezar]

@@LongPeter Cheers. At least there's nothing that a drill can't fix (or make worse), I suppose :-)

[@dansouthcott6599]

If jimoen can doin it ill have a crack...good job

[@novi0974]

Brilliant ... wish me luck .. I had to drill mine to get it out

[@LongPeter]

Good luck for four days ago. I hope it went well :)

[@denbo4023]

Thanks for this video - You're a life-saver. Just one point, though. I couldn't push that pointy thing into the hole to release the barrel - just wouldn't 'go'. So I came back to the video and see you need to turn the key to the #II (accessory) position. But - the reason I started this is I couldn't turn the key at all - so how do you get over that? In my case it inspired me to have another go at turning the key - and luckily /eventually it 'went' - enabling me to turn it to #II or even start the car. At that point the pointy thing simply 'went', just as it did in the video, and I'm back in business. I'm a'waiting the new lock/barrel - off of eBay it turns out for not much money and with 2 keys.

[@LongPeter]

No problem! Yes, that’s pretty much it. You need to get the key to turn to the “accessory” position by some combination of normal rotation with wiggling, tapping, trying different depths and blind luck. Once they start going bad they seem to deteriorate quickly. Within a week that one went from a bit fiddly to nearly impossible.

[@denbo4023]

@@LongPeter While I await the arrival of the new gizmo I decided to investigate the old one and pulled it apart, much the same as you did in the video - mostly to try and work out why it stopped working. A theory I came up with is that those slidy bits become worn and the key gets worn and eventually they don't line up just enough so the lock can open. So, then, as I stripped it down further and cleaned the old grease off, it occurred to me that maybe another problem was the grease itself becoming stodgy/sticky and not allowing the slidy bits to slide to where they should go to or back from where they been. Probably, also, those tiny springs in the barrel get sticky or weak too - all adding to a likelihood of why the slidy things end up jamming the lock. This theory is backed up if banging the key or wheel to dislodge them if they're stuck works - enough shock to move them to a position they can allow the lock to work. So - the reason for this message is to suggest the use of dedicated lock lubricant on re-assembly to avoid that in the future. No real need for axle grease in a lock. Mind you - my Holden is 17 years old - so I can't complain. It was 'warning' me for at least a year - which, naturally, I chose to ignore. After sleeping on it - I decided your option of keeping the original keys is better than my fix of replacing the barrel with one with new keys - I forgot about the doors and boot. Not that I use keys in them very often but it means extra hassle to carry original keys. Right now, I got the entire mechanism immersed in metho to clean it completely - (I thought the lock was clean but the metho is black). I'll put all the original bits back and see what happens.

[@LongPeter]

@@denbo4023 Cleaning and lubrication is certainly important. If a simple machine isn’t working, 95% of the time it just needs simple maintenance. I didn’t have anything more appropriate at the time so axle grease it was. Yes, I’d think the brass wafers are the part that wears. They seem a softer material than the key and the contacted surface area is very small. A previous Commodore owned by my brother had a different key for each door and the boot. It was hideously annoying.

[@denbo4023]

Well, I had a result, I think. I can't tell you yet as the battery's flat as, without realising the obvious, I left the car in the #II position when I took the lock out and so it was in 'accessory' mode last 2 days. Dah! My options :- 1. Get a kit and make a new lock as you did in the video. For:- You get to keep your original keys. Against:- Fiddly - and if you don't know what you're doing, (like me), has a surprising potential for failure. These locks, and the barrels they go in, are somewhat more complicated than they seem. 2. Get a new lock with new keys. For:- Easy changeover - take out the old one, put in the new one - reassemble and you're on your way. Against: You'll need to spend on new keys as the replacement only comes with 1 key you can use in the car key fob. Other spares may require a new fob and the need to code them for your car. This can be expensive. 3. This is what I did. I chose option 1 to have a look at what I was dealing with and to see if could avoid need new keys. After fiddling around with the lock, nothing I did would allow the key to turn reliably and, as a result, I decided against option 1. But, I'm still waiting for the option 2 replacement key to arrive - but could be another week and I can't use the vehicle until it does. Which gave me a flash of inspiration I might come to regret - an emergency fix to get the car back on the road ASAP with the least amount of cost. Take out the slidy things out of the lock until it works - likely there's only one or two causing the problem. I took out 8 of the 10 slidy things (and their tiny springs) - I could have taken them ALL out but decided to leave a couple. From a security point of view, the car still needs a key to unlock the steering and I'm guessing anyone trying to steal the car won't have the right key to undo the lock. More importantly. the car still needs the code from the fob to start. Key now works perfectly in the barrel. Went back OK into the car - AFTER I REVIEWED YOUR VIDEO AND SLID THE THING IN THE LOCK OUT OF THE WAY - thanks for that detail in your video - I had no idea about the lock not able to go back until you do. (The reason I mention it here is to help/warn others embarking on this adventure). So, where I am right now - everything's back and appears to be working but I got a flat battery to attend to. Last comment - assuming the car works when I fix the battery, (I'll report back), if I ever had to do this again, I'd go for option 3 first. It gets the car useable and option 1 or 2 can be used later as either method doesn't require the lock bits. Once again - thanks for your excellent video - I would have been completely stuffed without it

[@LongPeter]

@@denbo4023 Oh that’s a clever idea! And yes, I’d assume the immobiliser is probably harder to defeat than the mechanical lock. Anyone who was planning to steal a Commodore will probably have come prepared to just smash a big screwdriver into it anyway. Personally, I’d still go for option one. It’s a fiddly little puzzle but I quite like those, and the novelty wears off of dismantling doors pretty quickly. Even if you neglected to note down the order that the wafers came out in, it would be simple enough to figure it out. Just try new ones in sequence until you get one that is flush with the barrel when the key is inserted, the repeat for each position.

[@DanteWati]

Could I do the same thing if I were to just use the old pins from original broken ignition and put them in another one out of parts car instead of brand new

[@LongPeter]

@@DanteWati depends what part needs fixing. In this case, the pins were the part that was worn out. Just a kit of new pins probably would have been enough to fix mine, but I didn’t know that until I pulled it apart.

[@DanteWati]

@@LongPeterthe little stalk at the end the goes into the plastic switch snapped off

[@elysiakeatley4417]

How did you get to accsilery after tapping it video went blank

[@LongPeter]

Basically just kept trying but with two hands free. It goes black because the camera was lying in my lap :p Try every variation on wiggling, twisting, key insertion depth and gentle tapping that you can think of and be ready for the next step. Once they start jamming up, they seem to get worse really quickly.

[@sirjman1996]

How did you get the ignition to un jam I’m stuck with the key still being stuck

[@LongPeter]

I used the tapping on the end of the key trick, essentially. Try in combination with different amounts of torque on the key, wiggling the key variously and inserting to slightly different depths. It only worked for me a couple of times and seemed harder each time. I’d wait until you have the bits ready to do the whole job before going at it. Best of luck!

[@comicalshotz6005]

Hey man my ignition barell still will not turn. I try putting that rod back in n hold it down and I can't trun the key. Can u please help me

[@LongPeter]

Steering lock isn’t on, is it?

[@comicalshotz6005]

@@LongPeter the ignition is out of the car, the little spring and rod u push down and then turn the key to put in place I can't actually get to turn into place

[@LongPeter]

@@comicalshotz6005 oh at 4:20? Hmm… Not sure how much I can help without seeing it.

[@comicalshotz6005]

@@LongPeter yep that's it, would I be able to just buy a brand new ignition off ebay and get someone to get it coded

[@LongPeter]

@@comicalshotz6005 Yep, any mechanic would be able to sort it out, I’m sure. They could probably even source quality parts at a competitive price. eBay might be cheaper but there’s no guarantee the parts will be any better than what you already have, or even the right parts at all. I got mine from a Holden service desk for that reason. Burned by eBay vendors sending the wrong stuff too many times.

[@oshe1598]

I bought a new NiB74 barrell with a different key and tumbler configuration, when installing it gentle I broke off the copper coloured locking mechanism that you flicked up with a flathead screw driver, now what?

[@LongPeter]

At 16:08? Sorry, I haven't needed to go that deep into the steering column. Or are you referring to another part?

[@oshe1598]

@@LongPeter never mind we bought a new barrell from repco and the little spring activate mechanism that keeps the barrel in place broke off, not the copper thing inside the cylinder. we used the old barrell housing with the new barrell inside - all fixed now. avoid ‘nice’ brandparts from repco haha, $76 down the drain

[@LongPeter]

@@oshe1598 glad you got it sorted out!

[@maxwoll9576]

How did he turn the key half way to get the wire to hit the pin

[@LongPeter]

That's what all the banging on the end of the key was about. Sometimes giving it a tap or wiggle can bump the pawls up into place and let you turn the key one last time. I wouldn't do it too often though. It seems to get harder each time.

[@mason2409]

How did you get 2:47 to turn? What did you bang the end of the key with?

[@LongPeter]

A combination of jiggling, trying slightly different key angles/insertion depths (just a millimetre or so) or gently tapping the end of the key sometimes works. A bit of luck is involved. I was trying for quite a bit longer than shown but edited out most of the time the camera was just sitting in my lap, recording swearing and blackness. It seems to get harder each time, so once you get it switch on, don’t turn it off again until you have a fixed barrel ready. Another commenter actually left all the brass blades out of their barrel for a few days while awaiting replacement parts.

[@Hayden24789]

I must be missing something here... all rebuilt, working fantastic but when going to put it back in the car it doesnt even come close to going back in, even after resetting the lock mechanism and turning to the on position... hmm

[@LongPeter]

Hmm… all I can suggest is sliding down the switch at 16:04, though it sounds like you've done that? Try rotating all the way around? Could be upside down? Make sure the little locking detent is properly springy and able to be pressed in flush with the cylinder? I noticed when I was doing it that it would have been easy to accidentally assemble it with that outside. Sorry, hard to say without seeing it.

[@mohammednovalija]

so between when you gave it the bird , was there a secret procedure that you don't wish to share ? I got to that stage but key still won't turn to accessory even after lots of hitting

[@LongPeter]

Sadly no, I just got it to turn one final time while the camera wasn't pointed at it. A combination of gentle jiggling, hitting the end of the key and turning. You could try turning with it at slightly different insertion depths, also. Best of luck!

[@mohammednovalija]

@@LongPeter I emded up destroying the barrel and it finally turned. Only wanted to unlock the steering wheel so I can move the car to cut long grass underneath Car been sitting there for over a year since wife pranged it.

[@LongPeter]

@@mohammednovalija Ah, I see. Yes, I've heard of a few people needing to break it to get the old one out. Once they start sticking it can be only a few starts before they won't turn at all.

[@andrewstasiak7591]

At 2:47 the video jumps to the key from stuck in off position, to accessories, doesn't show how it was done, since I need to put it into accessories to remove the barrel in the first place, didn't show how it was done

[@LongPeter]

It was still the bang-on-the-end-of-the-key-and-jiggle technique. I just put the camera down briefly as it wasn't happening quickly. Of course I got it the second I stopped recording. You can also try varying the insertion key depth slightly. It seems to get harder each time you successfully wiggle it into submission though so best to take action as soon as you get it into the ACC position.

[@speedfreak1161]

Good job and funny as fuck 😂

[@LongPeter]

Thanks :)

[@santaclause0015]

Can I change the barrel without the key?

[@LongPeter]

Probably only if you are willing to destroy the old one. There are a few videos around that show that approach. Just make sure you can prove it is your car if anyone thinks you are trying to nick it :p

[@laionemeihetahikoulakanate9515]

Just like that,Just like that.

[@LongPeter]

Just like that.

[@falscherbruce5522]

If the key doesn't turn, it is usually key that is worn. Get a new blade cut to code.

[@LongPeter]

Could be that too. In my case, it was very much the lock blades.

[@ganjagames2053]

nice work .do want fix srs !

[@greglewis1146]

thats ok if key turns,mine wont budge

[@LongPeter]

Yeah, once they start binding up, you only have a few more uses before they get really difficult. If wiggling and tapping on the end of the key doesn't work, there are destructive ways to get them out. Thankfully I didn't need to go that far but there are at least a few videos along those lines. Best of luck!

[@darrenunderwood2799]

Had to brake mine with a ground of spanner in were the key goes then thought i wouldnt know the order of the brass leaves so caled a auto locksmith out :( $240 and back in action

[@LongPeter]

Oh, that's too bad. Not as costly as I'd have thought, though.

[@DanielG0LD]

Got a link for the parts?

[@LongPeter]

I just went to my local Holden dealer and asked for the part as I wanted it same day. Part number #92172018. There are cheaper options on ebay and www.kingswoodcountry.com.au/shop/doors/locks/62. This looks like the most similar kit but might not be a genuine part: www.kingswoodcountry.com.au/buy/holden-commodore-uncoded-ignition-barrel-lock-vt-v/NIB74LS That being said, even the genuine parts aren't exactly precision-made. Edit: There are time-coded annotations in the video description, in case you missed them.

[@aaronaddlem2373]

Add 2 minutes 40 to 2 minutes 50 how did you get the key in the on position that's where I'm stuck

[@LongPeter]

Sometimes knocking on the end of the key will get it work one last time. I managed to do it that way twice but of course not while I was recording. Jiggling the key or trying to turn it toward the ON position while slightly dipping the key in and out (by just a millimeter or two) might also work. You may also need to turn the steering wheel slightly if the steering lock is on. In other videos people have resorted to breaking the end of the lock barrel off or drilling it out. I didn't need to get that drastic with mine.

[@Gerardus1970]

I removed the tumblers altogether. Can turn the ignition on with anything, but without the paddlepop isn't going to start anyway, so meh.

[@LongPeter]

That's probably about as secure as they are from factory.

[@scetchport]

If barrel is removed place key on or in the transponder and tape to hold and if you can turn the thingo with pliers engine will start.even if you hammer screwdriver in and can turn it on,place key on transponder and it will start.

[@Gerardus1970]

@@scetchport You still need the paddlepop to start the car so if you have the barrel out just remove the tumblers and put the barrel back in, that way you can still use the key to start it and it doesn't look like you have stolen the car.

[@erock967]

I hit my key in and it started working but when I took the key out the same problem happened

[@LongPeter]

Yes, hitting it isn't a permanent solution to the jamming issue. Just a possible method for getting the key to turn to the ACC position, where it needs to be to get the barrel out.

[@erock967]

Peter Charlton thank you but I got lazy and took it the shop cost me 350 ?? Am I getting ripd off

[@LongPeter]

@@erock967 $350 installed, including parts and labour? Maybe a bit steep but every mechanic is different. The smaller ones tend to be cheaper than the car dealers in my experience. If in doubt, get a second estimate :)

[@scaredyet]

Fucking champion

[@beartiger1553]

Thanks but you used the wrong grease need silicone grease

[@LongPeter]

@@beartiger1553 Silicone probably would have been better but that’s all I had. Still working after 5 years so it’s at least ok temporarily.

[@beartiger1553]

@@LongPeter 👍