WAHOO Speedplay vs LOOK vs Shimano | Pedal Teardown and Engineering Analysis

[@awvelo2]

Again, an ill informed set of statements and observations from an amateur bicycle "engineer" first off the pedals shown are NOT Wahoo Speedplay pedals. The pedals shown were made by Speedplay in San Diego prior to the Wahoo purchase. Other than the name, the new pedals are not remotely similar. Since you have no idea what you are talking about, best to move on. "Click, next video"

[@Hambini]

Okay, next time I'll say this pedal presented in front of me is not worth reviewing because it's out of date, made in China so it must be crap, and the free body diagrams are not worth viewing because mark Pippin said so. I am sorry that my efforts have not met your requirements of a completely free and voluntary video production. I am sure you can find other places where they get the location and history totally accurate whilst at the same time giving a detailed analysis of the forces, manufacturing considerations and performance.

[@ILOVEDEFENDINGTHE1PERCENT]

How badly were your feelings hurt? It's okay we all cope in different ways, yours seems be through impotent rage.

[@awvelo2]

@@Hambini too many times I've clicked on your videos and came away with the same feeling. Yes, there is no doubt that in the bicycle industry sometimes the engineering is a bit of a shitshow. That said, I like to see videos that involve facts and a understanding of what is being discussed in regards to the design and other requirements that the industry requires. All of maybe 5 minutes of research would have revealed that this was a multi-year old product that you were having another ham-fisted attack on. There are a lot of things in your videos that absolutely have redeeming value that I've shared with friends. But, when I see content like this that is so wrong from the outset, it makes me hesitant to continue to recommend. I would suggest that in many cases, there are people available that could help you understand better what you are discussing and in the end have a video with better factual content. Keep up the good work.

[@Spartan9567]

​@@awvelo2 quit being a Muppet

[@morrisizing]

He literally mentions in the video when dismantling the pedals 'they may be different since Wahoo took over.'

[@nottusleinad]

I love my original Speedplay Zero pedals... I've been using them for ~15 years and NEVER had any problems with them. LOADS of float and adjustability, and a piece of cake to engage when accelerating away from lights etc.

[@beheermeneer]

Did I just hear a 5yo in the background (4:24)? Is it Hambini 2.0? Or is it Hambiniminime?

[@williwacker2774]

On my 2 road bikes I'm still on my first two sets of original non-Wahoo Speedplay Zero pedals with aftermarket Ti spindles. Both are still going strong after 10+ years and about 50000km ridden. Apart from greasing the bearings from time to time using that port, I haven't done any maintenance. Never lubed the pedal bodies or cleats. In the same period of time I only replaced cleats once. Still on the non-walkable version which are all I need because I don't visit cafés or grocery stores when out for training and I use Tufo Tubular clinchers with sealant in which in the very unlikely event of puncture are still perfectly safe to ride home. So no need for fannying around at the roadside. Now the nanogram version of the cleats have the tips of the retention springs broken off but so far this didn't make me replace. I don't see me changing to another system on the road, I find the mere idea of a single-sided entry unacceptable on open roads. I couldn't care less about marginal gains/losses.

[@davidh7414]

Interesting note about the new, redesigned Wahoo SpeedPlay pedals. They had a very high rate of failure manifesting itself in side-to-side movement of the lollipop on the axle. Supposedly fixed, or so they claim. Never happed with old design.

[@ianiscaratti4924]

had some speedplays on my track bike and loved the lolipop look, the feel in the saddle, the easy regrease and the aero golfball cleat. but the felt unstable out of the saddle and the cleats get filled up with junk so easily.

[@brianstranyak1049]

I rode w/ Look Delta pedals for 20 years. I replaced the bearing only a couple times. Eventually the platform wore, then I bought (and still use) Look Carbon Keo blades. I like them, but the cleats wear faster as you mentioned.

[@p504504]

The two best pedals I had were: Dura Ace 7401 pedals (Look Delta) and the PD-M520. The Dura Ace I got second hand, it was already worn down, scratched and scarred, but my God it spin like no other pedal I have ever touched. Literally zero friction in the bearings and no play at all. They were machined to utter perfection. But they were a bit too heavy and Delta cleats became a collectors item by now. The PD-M520 I found in a used parts bin for next to nothing. I took them apart, cleaned the axle and the balls with some WD-40, put in some cheap automotive grease, adjusted them and now they are my favourite pedals. They will probably survive me and my entire genetic line…

[@Andy-co6pn]

PD-M520 is without doubt the greatest single mtb product of all time imo. Cheap, works flawlessly and lasts forever

[@AndyScholand]

Wahoo don't use those user-serviceable bearings anymore though since their pedal re-design (recognizable by the full halo of metal around the circumference of the pedal). They've since changed to sealed cartridge bearings.

[@Hambini]

That is a bit of a shame

[@galenkehler]

​@@Hambiniit's a shame but the old models needed constant regreasing and were subject to contamination. Ultimately the pedal is in such a dirty environment that sealing wins over other concerns

[@dominicward3523]

@@galenkehler not my experience of using them. They need annual re greasing though will depend on your mileage

[@luukrutten1295]

And these new ones are actually worse than the old design, which is perfectly serviceable. If only the just changed to the new body layout on the old axle layout. The new ones even develop play on the bearing layout very fast. Leading to very high number of returned warrantied pedals.

[@chris1275cc]

They have also done away with a lot of the extensions and base plate options that made them so adaptable, going from a bike fitters dream to a nightmare.

[@davidsoftley4648]

Hi Hambini, Mark Pippin is correct but I think broadly you have great things to say about Speedplay/ Wahoo pedal systems. I own both manufacturers pedals and am immensely satisfied and so take your input as positive. Great channel, love your rants and the Princess blanket , priceless!

[@RICHARD.WRIGHT1]

Speedplay offer different axle lengths in their catalogue, plus different axle metals, Cr-mo. Stainless steel and Titanium in 3 lengths if I'm not incerrect. 73mm/76/78. I have a green pair with Stainless axle.

[@yourdeadjack]

I think since Wahoo took over, they don’t offer different lengths anymore.

[@nlfiets]

You can still buy them at Ali. They are even available in different colours.

[@borano2031]

@@nlfiets Watch out for Max Rider Weight!! There are better options. Rgr

[@prestachuck2867]

With all due respect, as others have pointed out, the pedal featured in your video is a Speedplay USA Zero. They were available with your choice of spindle materials, chro-moly steel, stainless steel, or titanium. The tiny screw in the center of the end cap is a grease port. Users can maximize the bearing life by regularly injecting grease until the grease coming out the other end of the pedal is fresh and clean. Oh yeah, Speedplay USA also used to sell the stainless axles in four different lengths. They also sold replacement bearings and service kits. The Wahoo-Speedplay pedals which use a Zero cleat, are different internally, and are manufactured in Taiwan. There is no grease port on them. I would actually like to watch you do a teardown on a Wahoo-Speedplay Zero, assessing the differences between the USA Speedplay Zero you worked here, and a Wahoo Speedplay Zero. Thanks for this video, it was still very informative and entertaining. Cheers!

[@bbqreunie984]

Interesting seeing a assessment of this product and the key features.

[@martintramuntbikemallorcak481]

been using speedplay's on all my road/gravel bikes for years.. never had a problem, what attracted me to them originally is they are the best pedal out there for adjustments...shims/spacers/packers....

[@borano2031]

For me, it´s the feeling of the "bioposition", stack height between shoe and pedal. Only DuraAce has the same. Rgr

[@lucmerryduke5022]

I bought a set of the Wahoo first gen (the lowest price set) and I returned due to a significant lack of concentricity between the pedal axle center and the broached hex. I’ve bought two sets since without any issues.

[@allezneg8545]

I remain amused at seeing my mate walk in his socks to prevent his Speedplay cleats becoming damaged at a bit of enforced walking on a L2B ride a few years back. Me, with my XT SPDs and MTB SPD shoes just happily strolled along as normal.

[@vanhelmen3168]

Speedplay Cleats are designed to safely walk on them, thats what the sourrounding soft, grippy, replaceable cover is intended for. Obviously your mate hasn't figured that out by now.

[@TheCharnwoodCyclist]

Interesting video, I’ve always used SPD - SL and have a set of 105 and two sets of Dura ace, benefits of the Dura ace is that they run very smooth and the pedal always rotates to the right position to clip in (hanging vertically), the pre load is quite fiddly to set up and can require a lot of readjustment until it’s just right, but they have been very dependable. The 105 are surprisingly good by comparison but often the pedal will be in the wrong position for clipping in, and they aren’t as smooth.

[@Darth_Firebolt]

You should service the 105 pedals. They have heavier grease in them so they don't feel as smooth as DA, but once an NLGI-1 grease is in them and the preload is properly adjusted, they spin just as well.

[@mathewjames4137]

I like my Speedplay pedals. Couple of notes. 1 The cap in the outer edge of the pedal isnt held in with the screw, the screw is removed to pump grease through the pedal body and you stop pumping when the grease comes out the inner seal. 2 Does any one remember that Vector were originally developing the power meter for Speedplay pedals before they were bought out by Garmin? The strain guages were bonded into the hollow part of the pedal axle and the pod plugged in to the inner end of the shaft. It was quite a smart idea ruined by Garmin unfortunately.

[@mathewjames4137]

PS if you are looking for pedals that feel like the Speedplays for your gravel bike that work with mtb shoes then weirdly I find the Crank Brothers egg whisks to feel very similar.

[@borano2031]

Sad that these Vector never made it to the market. Never heard if them. Thanks. Rgr

[@prestachuck2867]

@@mathewjames4137 I had the same experience! Good call!

[@prestachuck2867]

I remember the original Vector prototype. The retired pro cyclist Scott Moninger was working for Speedplay USA as a sales representative for a while. He did an educational session on Speedplay products at our bike shop. He had a set of the prototype Vector-Zeros with him that day. They looked very high quality.

[@jakubstanczyk4962]

Great video as always, but before any pp presentation please remember to check if the PEN_is_WORKING!!! Love.

[@chessgames5931]

The Great Hambini..... at last..... has stepped up his video quality game............. clearly the end is near........

[@wbuchmueller]

One thing you forgot is that you absolutely need to put threadlock on the axle screw or some teflon tape otherwise the pedal body will fly off guaranteed at the worst time

[@ChiTownBrownie89]

waiting for that to happen, its been 3 years for me.

[@supertampon5]

never happened to me and ive never added threadlock ever over 1000 years riding speedplays

[@wbuchmueller]

@@supertampon5 I had two pedal bodies fall off in 3-4 years of riding speed play. Speedplay ship with thread lock on the screws anyway so I dont think theres any harm in doing so 🤷

[@robertkehl9034]

Good comparison I wanted to see how speed play stacked up. I have used the new speed play and need some rotation. Very easy to clip in and out and are aero. Adjustability can be set to 0 or a very wide float. The only problem is a slight rub on the axel that can be filed down.

[@CarsAndBikesBklyn]

What about the Garmin system?

[@monsterthemink5787]

The Speedplay pedal has more similarities with MTB pedals regarding f.e. distance between bearings although it is also used on road bikes a lot. That said, I´ll never understand why manufacturers don´t offer more pedals with shorter axles. I use the Shimano XTR short axle version on my CX bike to optimise Qfactor which is one of the few options on the market.

[@borano2031]

Speedplay used to have a variety of lengths, that was of course before they were bought up by a company in financial troubles... Rgr

[@adambarlev8992]

I'm curious how you would compare the speedplay to something like an XTR pedal.

[@MAEBikr]

One more comment -Wahoo changed the Speedplay bearings -no more roller bearings etc... You are looking at legacy speedplay pedals.

[@mick6ful]

Hi Hambini . Respectfully could you not just have counter bored the pedal shortening things to allow the flange sit in?

[@chrishoyt7548]

Thank you the vid of a quality product. Finally a pink tec pencil, I bet the princess is happy. Good pointing by the way. Any MTB bike frame reviews coming? Any more bike light reviews or seats? Thanks a bunch Chris from Canada.

[@borano2031]

The latest pink pencil technology has come to rest!! Only by Hambini!!! Rgr

[@StuartPhoenix]

That all is exactly the same as my old BeeBop pedals that I have just disassembled for service. Did BeeBop become Wahoo ?

[@DP-PhD]

Very interesting and confirms the experiences I’ve had with my speedplays. I’ve used the factory spec 50mm titanium axle pedals for many years. Super easy to service and really smooth running. Only issue is that @@@ plastic cap! I lost one on a ride too, probably greased the tiny screw that holds it in too much. I’ve also got a pair of the ‘new’ slightly redesigned Wahoo pedals, single sided entry, aero version. I’m not an engineer so this is totally subjective point of view but I don’t find these to be quite the same quality as the older speedplays, but they’ve got rid of the plastic cap, so that’s good, for ham fisted self-service muppets like myself (I’m still talking pedals here btw!)

[@Hambini]

Your reaming is coming soon! I'll add that to the "history" slide

[@DP-PhD]

A ham-fisted self-servicing bike fit muppet, with a narrow Q angle, in need of expert aero advice sounds a very accurate history to me! :)

[@larsoleruben]

The screw in the cap is only for lubrication of the pedal. You are supposed to press grease in through it, until clean grease escapes on the inner side of the pedal. A very strange construction indeed, aas it is much more effective to take the pedal apart, clean it, regrease and reassemble!

[@craigsteyn6099]

As usual, Hambini provides excellent content. Having said that, I am sure that the person who wanted to take 2,5 mm off of the pedal believes they can feel a difference of 2,5mm. There is no limit on the ability some people have to sense changes in mm. 😏

[@ivanboesky1520]

placebo effect is pretty powerful 🙂

[@michalhosala4708]

Trust me, 2.5mm can make whole lot of difference, e.g. moving my cleats that much backwards causes pain in the front are of my knee.

[@mybrotherisnotapig6750]

I had the Shimano PD-R540 for 4 years, they were cheap and rode them hard through my amateur crit days. It never needed any servicing and I bodge the hell out of it due to it's wearing plastic pedal insert through the years but it still rode like a champ, abused to hell and the springs never gave out. Then last year I bought the Shimano PD-RS500's to retire my old R540's then this February one of the springs gave out on my unclipping pedal. I was using yellow cleats and just doing touring rides, how the in god's name did the springs gave out? Then I asked around into my local cycling groups and the 2nd hand market, apparently some of the batches of PD-RS500's released this pandemic had the same issue, Springs breaking due to them being the light action version. And the sad part about it that you can't completely take off the binding bolt that holds the springs, back then you just need a JIS screwdriver to take off the binding bolt get into the springs.

[@angruwasp8782]

I still need to order some Hambini titanium artisan part's for my Sirvelo.

[@MAEBikr]

My Hairdresser has banned me - I have big feet and other things- I think you get the point. Question - how would you go about getting longer axles made for Shimano SPD pedals? They only make a regular and short width. Some of us big guys need wider rather than shorter axles.

[@szurketaltos2693]

There are pedal extenders out there, might give those a try. But they do have a minimum possible length, so they end up adding something like a cm to Q on either side.

[@carlpentney290]

A lovely bit of engineering on that modified axle, especially the flat to allow for spanner tightening. I've used Speedplay like forever and wouldn't change now. The new Wahoo version are really nice; expensive, but the rapid engagement at traffic lights and junctions is worth every penny. Although Wahoo claim the new cleats are backwards compatible with Speedplay pedals the engagement isn't quite as good in my opinion.

[@prestachuck2867]

Wahoo now sells two cleat versions. Standard, and Low Tension. You might have ended up with a low tension set of cleats. I have recently switched back to my old Speedplay USA Zeros. I have two pair of different color, but otherwise identical Giro shoes. One has a NOS set of USA Zero cleats mounted, the other a new pair of Wahoo Standard Tension cleats. I cannot feel any difference.

[@timzemba3749]

Early speedplay pedals have two outer bearings, the outer most with a 6mm id and one behind with 7mm id

[@simonwoodford8728]

Personally once I'm clipped in and going I still love my Campy ProFits but they are not as good for walking or pushing off and the lack of non-slip pads on the cleats (which can be fixed by gluing some on) is a major contributor to this. I was pleased to see Hambini putting a collar on the shaft to replace the hex tightening system on the pedal - I have carbon Ultegra pedals on my LeMond bikes but dread the day when I have to remove them and wish Shimano had stuck with the collared system which enables much easier leverage when changing or serving pedals that have been on for a while.

[@francismartinevans]

show us your bending moment diagrams.. or is the pen NOT working?

[@clp91009]

I run Ultegra SPD SL pedals. I destroyed my first pair after a failed attempt to service them. I x-threaded the axle and stripped the carbon threads on one of the pedal bodies. A costly mistake never to be repeated. I bought another pair and will never take them apart until they are done this time.

[@xavierplaza3569]

Careful, I got a Speedplay pedal body come loose while riding. The axle had been replaced by an aftermarket Ti one, maybe no threadlocker was applied to the T20 bolt?

[@sspan1]

Does anyone make longer Shimano axles? You can buy Ultegra pedals at 53mm, 57mm or use an 18mm pedal extender to get 71mm. What about in between? Assioma power meters extend the axle to 64mm but I have a spindle power meter already. SQLab make +8mm and +15mm pedals but they use the Look system and I don’t want to sell my Ultegra pedals that have worked great

[@richardhaselwood9478]

FWIW, with regards Shimano pedals. Firstly, I can confirm any barely competent, window licking moron can service them. I do mine every year. All it involves is taking the axle out and repacking the grease in the cavity and re inserting the axle. The old, revolting grease oozes out and you are good to go for another year. It is exceptionally satisfying. I have actually worn one pair out. I had a pair I bought in about 2014 - 2015 and about 6 months ago, after replacing my cleats I noticed I wasn't clipping in properly. The retaining spring on one had given way and won't work anymore. Those pedals had about 27 - 28 000km on them, very roughly. I promptly replaced them with my spare pair of SPD pedals. Hopefully will get another 28 000km out of these ones.

[@Hambini]

I think and I would stress it's my opinion, for the average person, setting up the preload is more problematic on SPD SL. And some of those components, specifically the bearings are difficult to replace. It's cheaper to change the pedal.

[@heightencraft]

Thanks again Hambini for an interesting video. I come back again to a statement you made quite a few videos ago where you stated that Look pedals are designed really badly and I asked if you would be willing to do a video to explain that statement. I thought this was going to be that video, but alas....

[@Hambini]

That's coming soon, i've got a look set here.

[@heightencraft]

@@Hambini Wahoo!

[@galinadorinev4489]

Let me please ask again: I noticed from your old video on time`s pedals that these pedal`s spindle are really similar in shape and bearings organization for Shimano, Time and Keo look pedals. I always thought that the big ball bearing at the inner side of the pedal -outside the pedal platform - was to decrease the stack height (as also seems to be implementing Shimano on its pedals) but now that I see that the Time attack pedals have that structure (something like a 12x18x5 ball bearing at the crank side) and they are not low stack and as you designed in your FEA schematics bear a low load: why are they bigger than the other ball bearing? Why is thee a high axial load in pedaling?

[@bockersjv]

So frustrating. These are the old speedplay pedals not been sold for two years now. Would love to see a tear down of the Wahoo ones as the axles have failed on 4 pairs so far, but only on one side, never both pedals.

[@ivanboesky1520]

No one should be the least bit surprised these new Wahoo/Speedplay pedals are not nearly as good as the old Speedplays given that the old pre acquisition SPs were built to very tight tolerances in San Diego and the first thing Wahoo did after the acquisition was outsource the pedal and cleat manufacturing to the Far East to lower costs, not to maintain quality of fabrication or quality control. That tends to be the modus operandi of marketing based firms like Wahoo. 🙂

[@dfloper]

Wahoo are junk. Either try to source original Speedplay from ebay or change pedal system. Wahoo will never improve them since they took them quality took a nosedive.

[@bockersjv]

I just want to see what it is that is failing. I really like the pedals when they are fine but what is causing the failures that did not happen in the original version. Also have Wahoo fixed the issue?

[@ivanboesky1520]

@@bockersjv Poor fab quality since Wahoo took over and moved the SP manufacturing to the Far East to save some $$. That is the source of all the current Wahoo/SP pedal problems.

[@cgrecommended]

Holy shit it's nice having the ability to hear what your voice sounds like after the 00:06 mark.

[@kwisin1337]

Great video Ham, keep up the flow. An opinion from a trained technical back ground can be helpful, aswell i find your quarks to be rather fun and enjoyable, Thanks for your time.

[@brianwright9514]

How would a titanium axle mitigate bending? Titanium has a much lower modulus than steel and the outer diameter of the axle isn't different (and the steel axle isn't even hollow), so the titanium axle should bend more... Am I missing something about your argument?

[@jamesgillespie2671]

Would it not have been easier to countersink the crank arm adapter in by the 2.5mm?

[@Hambini]

It wasn't that thick to start off with so I feared it would flex and fatigue fail

[@Dolmar-Rick]

Why did you not broach the end?... is that hard to do... I guess blind hole broaching gonna be pretty hard to do in Titanium?

[@DnDMF]

While watching the video, and for no apparent reason, I remembered the slander you got in weenies forum because you presented findings and fanboys got their feelings hurt. And thought: many years passed, time proved hambini right, so where are they now? And then I went to the comments and saw the pinned one. There you are!

[@paddlestandingup]

I tried speedplays many years ago after being attracted to the float. I got rid of them pretty quickly though, as I didn't like my massive size 13 feet on a tiny platform. It probably doesn't matter that much but it was hard to get that idea out my head.

[@shawnchong2761]

Nice pencil, great colour, good choice

[@philoso377]

Hambini know best. I wonder if you are interested in commenting the cosine error in a crank power meter. Are we suppose to assume bike rider don’t rock their bikes at high power input? If not we have cosine error taken into the data base.

[@brianbob7514]

Coombe pedals have a cool bearing set up.

[@pakelly99]

Wurruhbout Assioma powermeter pedals? Owz about that then?

[@EdMontego]

Morning Hambini. Xavier Disley was on the latest Gcn Video, have you already heard about it?

[@Hambini]

I put a comment on it.

[@hankschrader2353]

As many have said, these are not wahoos. Those also tend to develop lateral play. The spring plate is also trash and needs to replaced if broken.

[@ivanboesky1520]

The new Wahoos develop lateral play as well the minute the bowties wear down. And the new bowtie shape is more about aesthetics than any serious engineering improvement because while the new shape covers more of the pedal body surface area the additional coverage is in areas of the bowtie that do not tend to wear down - the front and back sides. It's the lateral sides of the bowties that get worn out creating a lot of lateral play and the old design covered those areas in essentially the same way that the new bowties with the Wahoo logo do.

[@dfloper]

Used speed play for more than 10 years. Each set start having problems at around 20000-30000 km if you take care of them. Tried Wahoo version of Speedplay. They are a piece of cheap junk. In 300km they developed play on my road bike send them back got a new pair and sold it on ebay after hearing having the same issue. And sourced original speedplay from ebay at scalper prices. Wahoo destroyed Speedplay. No spare parts, no serviceability, no different colors, and cheap construction. Shame on them. Original speedplay were build to a high standard new ones are like the lowest quality possible to increase profits.

[@ivanboesky1520]

Yep. Not only were the pre acquisition SPs built to much higher fabrication and quality control standards in San Diego, but they were also very customer friendly in that they always produced all the spare parts you needed to rebuild your SPs. Wahoo immediately killed the production of all pedal replacement parts even though it screwed over all the pre acquisition SP customers, who had hundreds of dollars invested in SP pedals. I'll never support any Wahoo product. To me they are a garbage company and I truly hope they go under. Still going strong on multiple sets of X-2's and you could not pay me to ride or use a Wahoo product. 🙂

[@iulian2548]

Fietsenopmaat means 'custom bikes' in the beautiful Dutch laguage :)

[@janwillemkuilenburg7561]

And the load on the bearings seems to be higher in case of the Wahoo Speedplay?

[@Hambini]

It does, as the lever arm is longer.

[@jerryjin3427]

These are the old Speedplay pedals, not the Wahoo ones. They have made several changes both externally and internally. So they are not the same animals. Therefore, all the analyses done are not toward the "Wahoo" version. You should do another separate video on the Wahoo, as people are saying the modified design is garbage.

[@DoNuT_1985]

Interesting statement on the durability of Look Keos, I just thought it is bad luck that my first set of Classics broke after 3 years, but my Max pedals also don't feel too great after another two. Are the just rubbish? Imo, the Look-compatible Assiomas I'm primarily using feel much more solid...

[@Hambini]

I went off the Keos after 2 of them failed pretty quickly. I was expecting Delta levels of reliability. After that, I went to the SPD SL's and after the fiddly preload setup with cone spanners, I haven't touched them since.

[@adammillsindustries.]

I can’t believe the amount of people crying. I have the new Wahoo take over titanium ones and the Q-factor doesn’t seem bad at all standard. They work well for me, I’m happy. I use keo on another bike. No dramas.

[@loopie007]

Facts: Quick search on Wikipedia shows Speedplay has been based out of San Diego, CA until new ownership. They are dual-sided entry so clipping in is easier and faster than other pedals. They are typically lighter than any other pedal and the amount of float your foot from side to side is adjustable. As they have smaller bearings than any other, most people would consider it a racing part that needs more maint. The cleat portion that normally captures the foot is on the shoe instead of the pedal as with others. Unfortunately, being on the bottom of your shoe, you tend to wear them out or load them up with dirt/mud, causing clipping entry issues. When you wear out the plastic cleat on other pedals, they are cheap to replace with parts available anywhere. Speedplay cleats are a special order item and are not easily sourced. Opinion: Speedplay pedals are a better-engineered part, but the results don't really add up to a better product. Lighter pedals don't make you any faster. Pedals with larger bearings tend to last longer, and are much easier to source and replace. You can get other brand pedals, cleats, etc. anywhere. Most shops don't have Speedplay in stock or their parts. Pedals tend to hang out at the bottom of the bike and get beat to hell. Get something strong and easily supportable.

[@glennoc8585]

Pedal might be lighter but the cleats are heavy.

[@borano2031]

@@glennoc8585 When you put your bike on a pair of scales it´s soooooo light.... Same as a carbon saddle without padding, it´s 100 grams. The padding is in your bibshorts... Rgr

[@learigg]

Great well balanced video, thanks.

[@dalis994]

I've used each of them. With LOOK, a piece of carbon broke off (still usable). As for Speedplay I did not like the huge cleats. Sometimes they creaked. Speedplay reguired more maintanance. It might have been the first generation, stainless. With Ultegra no problems ever. I came back to them and use them ever since.

[@glennoc8585]

I too came back to shimano after running off with keo and time. I like time, they were very light and easy to clip in an out fast but the cleats didn't last long and were expensive. Keo were also junk cleats.

[@leonschumann2361]

problem with speedplay is cleat wear. that seems to be quite expensive. the pedal platform not as supportive for the foot, and wahoo took away different axle length and stuff. where you can at least get 2 versions from spd-sl pedals. for like the hour record the aero dimpled cleats and pedals may be faster. but that is for world class athletes ... been using spda few years but sl since many now. never had a single issue. Win for shimano on this part

[@ChiTownBrownie89]

I agree, the old system was better, wahoo ruined the new one. As for cleat wear, its about the same as any other, I get about 2 years use out of them and I think they are like $55 from wahoo directly. For the wahoo version of the pedal I am not sure I would get them but the old school ones are great.

[@aveedub7403]

A very restrained rant if i do say so myself! Are we getting PC now? 😆😆😆😆 but it was an informative rant thank you, and your machining of parts is awesome! One day I'll be able to afford a Hambini screwfit BB for my alu 1998 Cannondale R800. Best wishes

[@Hambini]

there wasn't really much wrong with it, wait for the infocrank one!

[@dominicward3523]

That looks like an original speed play rather than wahoo version. I understood that wahoo did various changes to the spec of the pedals. I use speedplay and much prefer them to spd- just for ease of clipping in.

[@fernandod2865]

Yea that looks like the original Speedplay pedals. The ones from Wahoo no longer have the screw in the middle to inject grease when you service them

[@glennoc8585]

The cleats though aren't they expensive to replace and don't last very long?

[@hankschrader2353]

Yes

[@dominicward3523]

@@glennoc8585 they are expensive in comparison with a bit of plastic but serviced properly and regularly greased (old ones) they are trouble free

[@Hambini]

I gathered they were originals. They must be old stock because the rider said he bought them in 2020

[@corvus400]

Good explanation, thank you!

[@andredegraaf1643]

Again, you've confirmed that there is no reason whatsoever to "upgrade" my Look PP296 pedals which are still going strong on all three of my bikes.

[@bleigh6562]

You should try first generation speedplay they are a pain to service. They were out of California , San Diego area. Great video.

[@borano2031]

@@VideoViewer33512 As Time Atacs have?? Rgr

[@pmcmpc]

You really should change title from WAHOO Speedplay, as these are original, and maybe follow up with a video on the actual Wahoo ones. The Wahoo ones have a shitload of issues and a lot of people have had more than 5 pairs replaced under warranty - N.B. 18 months after launch, Wahoo still haven't done anything to remedy the issues where they develop play almost immediately. So many former Speedplay disciples are abandoning them (unless they're sitting on a pile of NOS parts). The Chinese copies are more reliable than the Wahoo ones (though good luck with a warranty).

[@ivanboesky1520]

Agreed. Other than aesthetic changes so they could put a massive Wahoo logo on the newly shaped bowties Wahoo did nothing to improve the actual engineering of the old Speedplay pedals in any meaningful manner. I have loads of NOS X-2 model series pedals, body replacement kits and bowties that I could easily sell on Ebay for a 3-400% mark up without even trying and I have no plans on selling them. Plus Wahoo left a load of other older pre acquisition SP pedal owners high and dry when they decided not to produce any more SP cleats or replacement parts for prior SP owners so just based on that I won't support any of their products. When my supply of X-2 SPs wear out I'll switch to Dura Ace pedals, which are pretty darn nice IMO. 7% float is more than enough for 99% of riders out there. :-)

[@glennoc8585]

Tbh I think it's all a faff so I'll stick with my Shimano SPD SL.

[@tomkunich9401]

I found the speedplay pedal far too easy to turn out of. I used Deltas for a long time but was always irritated by how rapidly the cleats wore out. I changed over to Look Keo Max and they seem to be very good pedals. I don't like the Blades and the carbon Looks with the normal spring activation weigh the same as the Look Blades and work better without the danger of a carbon spring breaking.

[@lovenottheworld5723]

That contraption appears to be an axle lengthener by accident.

[@edic2619]

Great videos.

[@workshopninjathe1st]

This pedal is not manufactured by wahoo - this is an original speedplay. The critical difference is that wahoo have downgraded most aspects of this pedal system since buying them. As a shop mechanic for 20 years - the speedplay bearings do not last very long - and if service is missed the needle bearings will trash the axles.

[@richards4422]

Speedplay always claimed an aero advantage with their system. Any reason to believe that ?

[@obikedog]

I really liked my speedplays and would never have switched were it not for the expense and faffing of Quark crank power meters going to Dub. I now have Look/Keo's (Assioma Duo) and my pedaling has adjusted to 4.5° cleats very well. Add in the lack of four-hole shoes, the added stack height and weight of the kludge adapter and the speedplay system (cleat + pedal) is just not ideal imhe. That said they are quality pedals and I still have a set on my trainer.

[@quarkonium3795]

Excellent point with the weight. I feel like a lot of people buy speedplays partially because they're advertised as some of the lightest pedals out there while ignoring the fact that the cleat is chunky. Look actually comes out on top weight-wise if you factor in cleats

[@paulschulman8131]

@hambini I would love to see you disassemble a modern Look Keo Blade pedal. I’m a glutton for punishment as all my pedals are Keo blades 🤣

[@GeekonaBike]

It's not the road Speedplay pedals that are finicky, It the cleats & the Mtb cleates are even worse. PS make in Knoxville Tennesse

[@billyjo1148]

Time atac were my favoured pedals until they introduced carbon plastic pedal bodys on there mid and lower range total junk with plastic location holes for the steel clips etc I boughh an old NOS steel bodys but have found a great chinease brand Xpedo with 4 bearings great for heavier powerful riders

[@RO8YO]

I need a slimmer Q factor on my stationary bike…😂😂😂

[@d3c1mu55]

Was that a Ted Sheckler joke at the beginning?

[@h20s8804]

I know you're only 5, but, as noted, those are Speedplay, not Wahoo. Pre Wahoo. I have the same pedals, and being only 6, I was able to search the internets, ebay, and find very inexpensive Chinese Ti spindles in different lengths to change my Q factor to match my MTB setup. My right knee is so much happier now. The swap, like yours, was so easy. Those crank-length adjuster clamp-on things EW!

[@collinhelm8756]

You feeling ok man with that lackadaisical "hello Hambini fans?" Just let us know if you need a shoulder to lean on, we're here for you.

[@Hambini]

lack of pen action.

[@10ktube]

My main thing with pedals is clipping in easily from stops. Looks, over time, break in so much that they never land in the same position, and they often spin many revolutions if you miss. Shimano seem to always fall with the back of pedal towards the ground, so you clip back in the same way all the time. The Look Keo blade system isn't ideal either, it wears, and the blades are expensive to swap. I can't feel a good/bad with shimano vs look though once clipped in, they do the same thing.

[@SamHocking]

All that for 2.5mm Q? I got socks and shoe combos with more than 2.5mm Q difference

[@Ob1sdarkside]

Very subdued "hello Hambini" or maybe after so many loud ones, I've gone deaf

[@user-cd8it3hk9g]

Please test the Classified hubs for energy waste to blow up this snake oil product. Planetary gears waste around 4% if I’m right so the roadies jumping on this system should take heed.

[@likemarksee]

Nice choice of screw drivers, just saying.

[@normativesymbiosis3242]

Cheesus crunch, people getting butthurt because their favorite brand is named/not named in the title... I couldn't care less if referred to these pedals as Bla-choo or Tinyplay, it wouldn't lessen my enjoyment of the teardown and discussion of mechanical analysis one bit

[@AndreasHappyfarm]

The quality of the new Wahoo pedals is a joke compared to the original. New axle and bearing design is just as shite as any other CB pedal or similar. The one you review is meant to be serviced with a greasegun through the endcap.

[@andreemurray7039]

Have used speedplay for many years after using look pedals for many years but found they were poor in the bearings and the cleat wear was rubbish sppedplay are easy to look after

[@Wildschwein_Jaeger]

Hello Hambini Fans. Not so loud and crazy today.

You forgot to test that the pen is working 😮

[@sheilastallard]

I still use flat pedals on my Brompton. Stay Safe!!!