Bike Design: bike fit, comfort, body aerodynamics and merging genres.

[@stuartdryer1352]

I'm looking forward to hear if it meets your expectations after you've ridden it for awhile.

[@tonystyles806]

Man, this is very similar to my English built 8 years ago! I essentially wanted a fat tire road bike, with the ability to run 50mm 650b and up to 42mm 700 with a 50-34 double chainset. The geo is optimized around 35mm 700s, but works quite well in the extremes also. I did 414mm chainstays, 74.5 STA, 72.5 HTA, 78mm bb drop. The geo was also built around 165mm cranks and a 90mm stem (I’m 5 8’). I did exactly like you did with the seattube length - quite short and sloping downtube to achieve the flex you mentioned. Honestly, I’m not sure I’d change anything 50,000km later!

[@PeakTorque]

@@tonystyles806 nice. Sounds an ace build.

[@beter_wurst]

​@@PeakTorque first and for most thank you for the great video's presenting facts and explanations(and answering comments) I've spend nights gathering information, from different platforms for the right bike/setup since I fall completely of the standard size/weight(202cm/125kg butt naked, I got your adapter, those 180s saved me from crashing more times than I can count... after for fingers my head starts to hurt) anyway, could you please help me regarding hub choice. I saw your video about the Kom hub, love the idea and the company(made in the UK?) But! I can't live with to different brake rotors and loud hubs. So I've found a company in Italy producing custom titan thru axles. Do you think a stiffer axle(should be stiffer than alloy if all dimensions are the same, right?) could have the same effect preventing axle/hub bending, and do you know enough about onyx hubs(us made, instant engagement/silent freewheeling) too form an opinion

[@PeakTorque]

@@beter_wurst no problem glad you’re making use of the adapters! Definitely helpful for bigger guys. At your weight almost double the force required and heat generated by a 60kg rider! For hubs, have you looked at White industries? They used to do a hub with a 15mm steel axle. Strong as an ox. No experience with Onyx.

[@beter_wurst]

​@@PeakTorque I've landed on an giant revolt so I'm stuck with 12mm. I'll look into a steel axle, but just to clarify for me: both steel/titan will be stiffer/better fatigue-hence better bearing live as an alloy thru axle? Meaning the hub choice would not have as much of an impact regarding undesired wheel flex, bending of the cassette etc?

[@pierrex3226]

You're missing b roll footage of this beautiful frame!

[@overbikedrandonneuring]

Commentary on climbing with a slack seat angle harkens back to the 'Pogacar Pre-rotating' video. I once had a Redshift dual position seatpost the moved the seat forward ~3cm for aero bar use. Ended up using it on every steep climb as well. Love the geometry here, as it's similar to what I've been hunting for for a while. Closest I've found is the Merida Silex, but it's extra slack up front. Looking forward to the build

[@PeakTorque]

Was on it before pogi 😂 jokes

[@TheEraser92]

I have the same issue with seattube angle. I have to use a zero offset post and have the saddle slammed forward. My bike has a 73.5deg but most bikes I’m looking at for my next one are slacker and have a proprietary seatpost with massive setback! Basically means I need to pay a premium and delay while I order a suitable seatpost.

[@trev6742]

cool to see what you did, sit at 6'4 and had same saddle issues as you talked about and been running a custom titanium at 75 degrees last few years. absolute game changer so hope you enjoy

[@basengelblik5199]

Do you have 0mm offset seatpost as well?

[@basengelblik5199]

Would love to know your bike geo and dimensions.

[@richardrutishauser4689]

I love what you are saying about seat tube angle and seat rail postion. I'm tall and like to climb too and tend to run saddles pretty far forward to get that feeling of being over the bottom bracket.

[@mf0u3021]

Did the maratona this year and setup my bike for around a 4% gradient. Climbing was a dream.

[@mireianievasrosillo1013]

I went basically the same route when I designed my own titanium bike. Used to 73.5 deg bikes that just do NOT fit with my long inseam (86cm) and relatively short torso (175cm tall), I basically went to 75 deg on the seat tube and kept a 71.5 cm in the front for some sort of hybrid gravel/road. That allowed me to keep a relatively normal reach without stretching my body too much. Also had the same problem with spacers and also solved it by setting a much larger head tube (175mm instead of 150mm in standard bikes). And lowered the BB, although to 75mm drop in my case as I use it more in a gravel mode. Again great moves imho. In my case I managed to pack 50-55mm tire clearance with a 430mm chainstay using a semi-yoke welded piece on the right (does not take cables inside, but with a SRAM AXS is not a big deal). If I ever design a pure (all)roadie I will likely go with the same geometry, the bike fits like a dream. Also if I do, I may try to do it breakaway with either S&S couplers or Z couplers, undecided ...

[@ynslife]

very interesting I have pretty much identical body proportions.. would you mind sharing a bit more detailed measurements of your frame? effective top tube, stack, reach, etc thanks!

[@mireia3208]

​@@ynslifeeff. Top tube: 540. Head tube: 175, front center: 612, Reach: 379, stack: 600, bb drop: 75, chainstay: 430, angles (front and back): 71.5, 75 deg. It has T47-68mm as BB and UDH hanger in the back. Zero toe overlap with these settings. Can fit a 48-35T chainring or a 42T, with 50-55mm tires. My only mistake was going for fully internal routing. I should have gone semi to make it easier to pack the bike for traveling...

[@jochembeumer2673]

@@mireia3208 That sounds like a really nice bike, do you have any pictures of that one?

[@CatManDoSocial]

Cool stuff, Alex. Always love digging into CAD models. By the way, the audio in this video is probably the best you've had. Whatever you did, it worked.

[@lolbubs11111]

Not recording in front of a noisy fan helps a lot

[@PeakTorque]

Macbook webcam audio with some post processing to remove echo.

[@CatManDoSocial]

@@PeakTorque Nice.

[@sabamacx]

What are your thoughts of the domestic Fairlight Cempa fork? (Indeed Fairlight cycles are quite open and go into depth about their tube sizes/profiles/dimension selections in their frameset designs on their frameset "logbooks")

[@BlackWaterCyclist]

You are spot on about slack Seat Tube Angles on XL frames. All my L and XL have very steep 74-75 degree seat tube angles.

[@Antoine_Frs]

Your approach to this all-road geometry is spot on. You'll have to slightly raise the seat as it will be closer above the BB, I guess your drawing with the same seat hight was a demo for the video.

[@PeakTorque]

@@Antoine_Frs i actually dont adjust the seat height when going fore-aft. I have been coming down and down with seat height over the years

[@JohnnyRabbitQC]

I will only speak of my personal experience so people can read this and try what I ended up doing. I have long legs , long femur and short torso at 185cm and after a bikefit I need way more setback than average. I used to instinctively position myself this much forward because of hip impingement. It was more comfortable but it was disengaging my glutes, putting too much weight on my hand and there was no way I could climb in an efficient way. The bikefitter found that my hip was impinged for many reasons. My handlebars were too low, I have a physical restriction at the right hip and my cranks were too long. I made all these changes and it made a world of difference. I average around 2 to 3km/h more on my rides and climbs are way easier as I use my glutes.

[@Ahaggah]

Why not go for a shorter stem and longer reach to compensate?

[@Antoine_Frs]

To keep the wheelbase not too long I assume. I don’t know what length the stem is but 120 mm would be relatively standard in this size.

[@Ahaggah]

@@Antoine_Frs What's the problem with a "long" wheelbase?

[@Antoine_Frs]

A longer bike is more stable, a shorter bike is more nimble. Different riders may prefer one or another.

[@Ahaggah]

@@Antoine_Frs Yeah, that makes sense... for trial bikes

[@mikekrasovec6390]

A longer rear end is likely going to work better for an all purpose bike. You will have clearance for bigger tires and a 2x crank. It also allows a better weight distribution when the front end has a longer front center. If the front wheel moves further out the rear wheel will have an excessive amount of weight on it reducing cornering grip. A short rear end allows a responsive whippy feel but lower total cornering performance. In addition when dealing with tall frames vs short frames they typically use the same chainstays as a method of reducing production costs. A bike with a 41cm chainstay for a short 5'0"/152cm rider will have a different balance than a 6'4"/193cm rider. As the seat goes higher to accommodate the taller riders legs the seat moves back and the front wheel moves out due to the longer top tube. This can be somewhat mitigated with a steeper seat tube angle but only so much unless you use a wacky ultra steep seat angle (75° isn't wacky). A chainstay 3-6cm longer will help with that. As far as seatpost selection for a desired amount of deflection for comfort purposes - why not just use a suspension seatpost? Lightweight suspension seatposts such as a cane creek eesilk are available (I believe that the carbon version is 350gm if not lighter) and are actually tuneable for desired levels of stiffness. An elastomer is likely to provide superior shock absorbtion to just about any carbon post - and is going to be tuneable for your weight.

[@byciggle]

A road bike that will do gravel is called a gravel bike. The CAD model is 👍

[@jamesmarshall2353]

Will the short seat tube mean you have difficulty finding a long enough seat post to get the required saddle height?

[@kidsafe]

Have a look at the Dare VA-AFO to get an idea of where race bike geometries are headed.

[@andrew9579]

At 75 degree seat angle what is your saddle nose to BB setback? I’d imagine it’s close to the UCI 5cm rule. I like the peddling dynamics of being in that position but it does put more weight on the hands. I guess that’s the trade off for bike fitters who are dealing with average people that have significantly more upper body mass than elite riders which put much more weight on their hands.

[@bendardania]

How much is the frame?

[@PeakTorque]

@@bendardania make sure youre sitting down…7.75k usd

[@bendardania]

@@PeakTorqueuhhh, well still “cheaper” than moots. I hope it meets your expectations. Cheers

[@cccpkingu]

Could you use bearing seats for the headset that gives the stem less rise, and give the fork equivalent rake?

[@PeakTorque]

@@cccpkingu you mean angle set bearings? You could, but the headtube would have to get bigger to accommodate the bigger cups and eccentric inserts. DH bikes do this. But with this internal cable routing also you need extra space, so the whole thing would end up huge!

[@elijg6104]

Looks great! I’d make very similar choices if I were designing a road bike for myself as well. Perhaps the main difference would be a higher bb for pedaling clearance

[@PeakTorque]

Short cranks (165) and bigger tyres so can go much lower. BB drops in main brands are the same as when we had 23mm tyres and 175 cranks

[@rrluthi1]

@@PeakTorqueinteresting. I would have to run the simulation to figure out how the bb drop affects stability / handling.

[@PeakTorque]

@@rrluthi1 just send it 🥹

[@Deedeedee137]

Just saw from some of your other stuff that you used to live in Hong Kong, which is an extremely humid place. It's more humid than where I live (Hawaii) but it's still very humid here. I have consistently had problems with my chain getting surface rust here. Would you reccomend wax or wet lube for this type of environment?

[@PeakTorque]

I used to use drip wax (squirt) as with the rains the wet lube would just get so messy and black. I kept my bike indoors with AC so didn't get too much rust on it but outside it did!

[@Deedeedee137]

@PeakTorque thanks! Looks like I may be somewhat out of luck tho lol because my apartment does not have air conditioning. I guess the real answer here is probably just "do chain maintenance more often" which is not the answer I was hoping for but I guess I don't have much of a choice

[@jochembeumer2673]

Looks like a great 'almost' do it all bike where a lot of technical knowledge helps in defining the right measurements. What is the best starting point for me as a normal human with less knowledge to define/design a almost do it all bike in aluminium/titanium?

[@valmorell]

Once the TCR geometry became mainstream, I never understood why manufacturers didn't offer a small range of seatposts with different stiffneses. Such a simple way to change ride characteristics. As to aero seatposts... Yeah, right...

[@luukrutten1295]

I used to have a bike with a 74 degree seat tube angle in a size xl. My best racing season ever was on that thing, shame that I broke it. I wouldnt nead to go as extreme as a 75 degree, but this one degree does make a difference in feel over 72.5/73.

[@edwarding4355]

I am a small or between small and medium and the seat tube angle is 74 or 73.5 . I wonder why they slack it as the frame gets larger. You'd think the triangle would stay the same except with larger portions.

[@PeakTorque]

Yep 74/75 is very common on smaller sizes. Of course its personal preference. Some big guys still want 72 deg, but when the road goes up hill…

[@cosinus_square]

They have to slack them for small frames because, overall, there is too much wheel for too little frame, lol. Technically, too much front wheel for the stack range available to work with. Wheel size to frame size ratio affects a lot of things. The wheelbase will be too short and toe overlap would be extreme, ride quality and handling will be horrendous. If wheel size would be proportionately reduced with frame size, normal frame angles can be retained but the downside to that would be no standard wheel size.

[@Al.2]

I can't quite wrap my head around long femur riders. Should the seat tube be more steep or more slack for them?

[@phqnomenon]

@@Al.2 more slack since your knee position relative to the bb would be longer the longer your legs

[@Al.2]

@@phqnomenon That's not at all obvious to me since knee position over the pedal spindle or the bb is apparently not that important, like in the squat - a longer femur actually requires greater ankle dorsiflexion to allow for a more forward position, otherwise you'll lose the balance.

[@MrJaycobsen]

What crank length are you going for? I saw in one of your previous videos you were testing out some shorter cranks.

[@hutflo]

Which software are you using there in the video?

[@matthewsackman]

I'd be curious about the Canyon/Ergon VCLS seat post. Also, with that much seat post exposed, are you anticipating a certain amount of bend with you just sitting on it? Would this undo some of the benefits of the steeper seat tube?

[@PeakTorque]

Indeed. But the steeper the angle, the less the aft bending. A very laid back seat tube angle would give more deflection for the same load. I will measure it.

[@ChlorophyllCrusher]

@@PeakTorqueI used the Specialized C-GR post with leaf-spring design on my cyclocross bikes for 4 seasons, and they worked well. The bikes were alu, and I wanted to have be able to keep the power down more while in the saddle over rough courses; we have frozen ground often enough. They worked well, and ST angle is not going to make a difference. The only downsides would be aesthetics and setback. Setback in ample supply can work well for a CX bike since you want more rear-bias and sizing down can work well for handling, but I know that’s not what you’re aiming for.

[@jaro6985]

Canyon VCLS 2.0 is amazing, saved my injured spine. Only thing is the shitty tolerance on the diameter means it slips unless you shim it or glue it. There isn't significant sag to it, unlike the spring or pneumatic seatposts.

[@petesjk]

I’m curious about the long reach gravel and all-road bikes that have come out recently. I demoed a BMC Kaius on local trails and liked the long reach and short stack. BMC categorizes the Kaius as a gravel race bike, but to me it seems more like an all-road. It has a slacker seat tube angle, but in some ways seems similar to your frame.

[@peter_kropotkin_]

Before signing off , get your crank length sorted. I’m running 140mm due to v.long femurs 46/30 oval rings Which require low FD mount This will transform your pedalling and cadence

[@gbgb8878]

Which programming language ?

[@KevinMatassa]

I use my now discontinued factor LS for this dual purpose. It works well for my purposes (fast road handling and does gravel, no bike-packing). (max 40'ish rear) I think it may have the kind of handling and attributes you'd like to see.

[@Velodictorian]

3+ videos each with 90k+ pair of eyeballs. Frameworks is getting their money worth 😜

[@82vitt]

Framework. without an "s".

[@PeakTorque]

Certainly is getting some exposure, happy for him.

[@basengelblik5199]

Can you share your bike geo (whats not in the video) & your length and inseam? I am probably of sumilar build. Would love to compare. Designing frame dimensions for myself for a gravel-travel-bike. 1x12 and 55mm-ish tires so probably going for boost drivetrain. Love your consideration for a steaper seat tube, avoiding too much weight over the rear wheel and getting rid of the spacers.

[@Chungleas]

I've been playing with spreadsheets and bikeCAD toying with the poor-man's version of this and getting Marino to make me a steel Gravel/allroad type frame to replace my road and gravel bikes with one 'do it all' machine. Even though I'm shorter at 5'10" The more upright seat angle makes lots of sense to me for the sake of my hips, similarly getting the seat post to protrude more so it can work more as a kind of cantilevered 'suspension' element. Where I typically ride a 560 I think I might go down to a 540mm seat tube. One thing that I am struggling with is chainstay length, lots of bikes that manage to clear 40mm tyres, with guards (which I'm going to want) end up around the 430mm mark, which feels a bit long for when I run it in roadie mode with skinnier tyres, it'll be stable but possibly feel.less nimble, that might just have to be a compromise I have to live with. I'm probably going to go shorter on reach than previous frames, circa 385mm as that suits me, but pulling the head angle back to 71.5 should put the front wheel forwards a smidge and help with handling off-road. I'm really interested to see how this pans out for you.

[@АрсенийРозенберг-э2л]

Oooh, you caught me in the process of making a new frame (beginner without workshop) and I have rear triangle from broken frame with 72.5° ST angle. Same problem, long legs, short upper body. Shortened TT already til 53.5 (56.5 st), but it's basically the same as changing the angle of the ST as you showed. Probably now I have to make a jig for rear triangle to be able to change it.... Btw anyone tried 72 ° HT with 20-25mm rake fork? How it is? My project is about vintage tt frame with kind of bullhorn mounted on fork crown

[@Vasyapetrov666]

Why do you need so short chainstays in this size?

[@IsaacRC]

The most obvious and probably irrelevant is shorter the chainstay more direct torque transfer to wheel but the not so straightforward is the rider's weight (which in the most part is what the back wheel is moving) can benefit being closer to the wheel

[@petesjk]

He lives in a hilly area, so he wants a frame designed with climbing ability.

[@fleurdelispens]

Have you seen Bike Sauce's video on the myth of vertical compliance? He found that a frame's compliance has almost nothing to do with vertical deflection and mostly to do with horizontal deflection.

[@PeakTorque]

I have seen that video, but he’s speaking about vibrations at the axles and the BB. That is independent of what happens to your body when you hit a large bump, seated. I have some data loggers like that, that im using for some Crr testing.

[@Laundry_Hamper]

This is another good argument for using a 26er MTB frame in a road build, it ends up looking like a mega-compact thing like first-gen Team Once TCRs, giving you loads of exposed seatpost - which will have lots of rearward deflection

[@paddyhartlep8424]

Love the syntace seatpost for quality and saddle adjustment! Not sure about stiffness of the alu version,the carbon version they marked as super comfy!

[@IsaacRC]

What wheel size are those? Cos wheel size is the only fixed param in mainstream frame sizes and distorting the smaller geos IMO

[@jaro6985]

You can see in the image 700mm tire OD, 622mm rim diameter, 700c.

[@IsaacRC]

@@jaro6985 thanks i blame Netflix, but why the 700 and not other size? Listening to all of it nearly everything is been taken into account then my guess is wheel proportionality too

[@jaro6985]

@@IsaacRC most of the wheels he gets to review are 700C, so not much opportunity to use others I guess?

[@IsaacRC]

@@jaro6985 idk the only reason for me to order a custom made frame is fitting smaller than 700 wheels, that's why i asked

[@beter_wurst]

@PeakTorque first and for most thank you for the great video's presenting facts and explanations(and answering comments) I've spend nights gathering information, from different platforms for the right bike/setup since I fall completely of the standard size/weight(202cm/125kg butt naked, I got your adapter, those 180s saved me from crashing more times than I can count... after for fingers my head starts to hurt) anyway, could you please help me regarding hub choice. I saw your video about the Kom hub, love the idea and the company(made in the UK?) But! I can't live with to different brake rotors and loud hubs. So I've found a company in Italy producing custom titan thru axles. Do you think a stiffer axle(should be stiffer than alloy if all dimensions are the same, right?) could have the same effect preventing axle/hub bending, and do you know enough about onyx hubs(us made, instant engagement/silent freewheeling) too form an opinion? Greetings from Cologne 🍻

[@PeakTorque]

@@beter_wurst i replied to your other comment 👍

[@doctorscoot]

I’m the opposite - 180cm but with short legs. When I got a bike fit, my seat (and cleats!) had to go forward, and my stem down. Bloody seat post though … 15mm offset so the seat is right forward on its limits - and I can get a 0mm seat post off the manufacturer at the cost of several hundreds of bucks!!!

[@karlalvtorn5222]

Did you ever think about going 650b? I think that might make some of your wishes concerning geometry easier. I’m still waiting for 26” to be the next big thing. That would be awesome for the industry - we would all need new frames and wheels. 😂 (Not for MTBers obviously)

[@PeakTorque]

Nice comment. Yeh i did consider 650b for the gravel tyres etc but the wheelset limitations in road axle width are quite…limiting

[@ChlorophyllCrusher]

@@PeakTorquea number of us in my group have been using 650b on modern road bikes with thru axles for years, and carbon rims on good hubs with Enduro bearings and end caps and drivers for all the standards. If you end up wanting to try that out, a 650b x 42 has an OD same as a 700c x 33. Inertia is really low with a good carbon rim and light tire (Rene Herse), which makes for a very sporty feel.

[@jaro6985]

I use 650b for road, and I'm tall, can't imagine why shorter riders aren't considering 650b or 26" as you say.

[@TarasGlek]

Man i had so many friends order custom frames after being sized at bike shop. After seeing your vid realized what a waste it is to iterate over email using 2d pictures. No bike shop mechanic is every gonna be elite enough to cad a frame with important components and thoughtful enough to consider all the modalities like climbing. You are super lucky that you are engineer that is also a bike nerd so you can actually benefit from a custom frame in more than "change tubes to match my dimensions". i can imagine that this would be killer for designing bikepacking setups... calculating heel/toe clearance to front and rear backs, etc

[@andrzejx2139]

What is the reach of it?

[@HarishChouhan]

Mate, is here any simple/free software just to get some basic geometry of a bike and experiment? I'm in the process of getting a custom frame from waltly. I had the same issue about seatpost being too high, etc. etc.

[@PeakTorque]

@@HarishChouhan bike Cad. Google it 😀

[@maximkrivov]

Xplr axs dropper seatpost. 75mm travel. Extremely expensive but exactly what you need. Locked out when extended but as soon as you lower it even the slightest it acts as suspension with travel. So it provides vertical compliance and with still being stiff horizontally. I hope I got that right not an engineer).

[@chrisridesbicycles]

Is there a reason why road bikes are still designed with steep head angles and long stems apart from how it looks? As you mentioned, on the MTB we have gone much slacker and made the frame longer and the stem shorter and nobody wants to go back.

[@10ktube]

Stiff carbon post option - I've had great luck with those 20 dollar ebay models, they are harsh as heck for me. Flexy ones, like the Ergon split model (like the one on the Canyon gravel bikes), actually do dampen the buzz very well even to me and I'm 68kg.

[@DubVs4096]

Interesting that you need a steep seat tube angle to accommodate your femurs. Like you I have long legs (and particularly long femurs) and not a very long torso. Through bike fits etc. I've ended up in the opposite position: seat slammed all the way back to reduce some knee discomfort I was having when further forward.

[@bradcomis1066]

Long femur will push your hip rearward relative to shorter femurs (assuming same knee position relative to pedal axle). Lots of body weight in the lower torso and hips so if you go further forwards you’ll get what he claims is better weight distribution.

[@dioright]

maybe room for chain suck protector?

[@benphyall4701]

A Hope Carbon Seatpost will look sweet. Or a USE carbon seatpost for flex. The split Ergon seatpost always seems like a compromised idea. Have you considered a Titanium post?

[@PeakTorque]

@@benphyall4701 i did look at some Ti yep. Would look cool. The hope and USE use a single bolt system i think - ive forever has this slip. I do prefer a twin bolt as they physically cannot slip and tilt.

[@benphyall4701]

@PeakTorque if you now have the geometry to put your saddle more central on the post, there would be less leverage on the rail clamp bolt, but, yes, a 2 bolt system is reassuringly secure.

[@PeakTorque]

@@benphyall4701 true

[@bradcomis1066]

Shimano 12 speed and 11 speed chainring clearances are the same so you’re all good there.

[@drym3943]

I am currently an engineering student. What CAD software are you using ?

[@ream_my_tang_hole]

Looks like onshape

[@PeakTorque]

I use Onshape and Solidworks. They are very similar.

[@BikePappy]

Check out IronCad. They used to have a student version but it’s been a while since I’ve lived in that world.

[@johnkim3858]

Video Idea: “Do 20-inch(like 451 mm) wheels have less aerodynamic drag than 700c (622 mm) wheels?” I do not know how to do a fair comparison cheaply without involving a custom frame. Nevertheless, as you also hinted on a podcast, I suspect that 20-inch wheels have less drag due to their inherently smaller frontal area, but due to the UCI rules and buyers' dogma, no one had the guts to experiment with this idea. I feel you might be in a position to conduct such a study.

[@PeakTorque]

@@johnkim3858 i was going to test that on a mini velo (Stijn cycles) but we couldn’t match the tyres (thus Crr). The rolling resistance would be a huge error if it were not made the same for 700c and 20”. There must be some tyre compounds available that are available in both sizes….

[@johnkim3858]

@@PeakTorque Have you already looked into the Schwalbe Kojak? Inconveniently, it does not come in a 451 size; nevertheless, the 406 and 622 sizes seem identical, at least from the information on Schwalbe's website. Stijn’s website says its PEG Road is compatible with 406 wheels, although it has 451 wheels.

[@andywebb3568]

840mm from BB to saddle? I am going to assume 175mm crank arms as that saddle height indicates a freak of nature, that would give you an approximate 115cm (45") inseam which by standard proportions makes you about more than 8 feet tall :-)

[@PeakTorque]

Your maths is wrong bud. 840/ 0.883 is 950 🧐

[@andywebb3568]

​@@PeakTorque Thanks for the correction, Maths wasn't wrong, only just realised Greg Lemond method measures from BB center instead of furthest pedal position, making it inherently useless anyway as it doesn't take into account crank length. So maybe your not so freakishly tall then :-)

[@NeilRidley1]

Seatpost wise my ocd would want an enve just to match forks

[@Algaborga]

Suddenly cyclocross bikes from the early 2010s are road bikes. :)

[@PeakTorque]

@@Algaborga noo they had steep head angles and short front centres for lots of shitty toe overlap 🤣

[@Algaborga]

@@PeakTorque I was going to argue with you, but then I realized that tall people did not get the great geometry of my 54cm Stigmata 2. You've been treated very unfairly. :)

[@PeakTorque]

@@Algaborga i have been looking at getting a stigmata for my next gravel bike!

[@mircozelle]

stevens super prestige

[@hcw199]

Hes making you a free bike and you have the cheek to ask for a gravel bike too?

[@porkyparry1]

Were talking as though UK roads are like a billiard table. They aint, ill take the hit on lost watts on tarmac to be able to ride multi terrain

[@PeakTorque]

@@porkyparry1 exactly why this is built for 40mm road tyre while most are faffing about on 28s getting rattled to death 🤨

[@basengelblik5199]

Putting a bigger tire in the front will change your geo. However the changes are all more suitable for the harder trails. A. Your BB will go up, which is a plus B. Your headangle will become more slack, which is also a plus. C. Seattube will become slighly more slack, only minor downside.

[@10ktube]

It baffles my brain that carbon fiber has "direction" to it, especially when it's compacted with epoxy. I'd think the glue sorta negates the whole directional properties of it. I almost want to see it demonstrated somehow. I'm jealous of this build, I want to see how it performs for you compared to an off the shelf option.

[@9psi]

Disc wheels front and rear with 19mm tubs. Everything else is whatever