Wall Framing Strategies: Wall Corners

Wall Framing Strategies: Wall Corners is a quick guide to showing 3 different methods of constructing a wall corner when framing a wall. I will show you my preferred and most common in use wall corner.
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There is the two stud, three stud and for stud wall corners. The four stud wall corner will be your best for strength and longevity for the sheet rock. Often when remodeling or renovations, people will choose a cheaper and what will get them by at the time method. I will talk about the cons of going the cheaper routes.
The two stud wall corner uses metal clips that give the drywall something to rest against so that you can push another piece of drywall against it at a 90 degree to support it. I do not recommend this unless it is just too hard to get another board in if this was a renovation. The weaker the corner support is, the higher risk you will have of having cracked corners in your drywall. The three stud wall corner is also a weak design due to you are anchoring your drywall on the weakest side of a stud. 2x4’s are strong when you are nailing or screwing on the thin (2”) edge. If you are using the wider surface it flexes and tends to bow or warp. The four stud wall corner is your strongest however, even though it is called the four stud corner, it actually uses scrap blocks in one area of its construction. There are diagrams to illustrate what I mean.
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[@DBarryHaire]

This is great. I couldn't find anything specific about corners until I saw this video. Thumbs up.

[@albertstrong5516]

Absolutely great video. It is a pressure to watch someone that knows what they are doing. Thanks

[@Lifenrichments]

Glad it helped

[@cosmicegghead5338]

I've found that homeowners respect contractors A LOT MORE when the work is put into a common sense projection and explained just as you have here, 5 stars in my opinion, excellent video !!

[@christsciple]

I've been framing since I was a kid - in my 30's now. Always done the California corner from California to Montana, without any issue.

[@patrickbessette4207]

I agree that the 3 corners are the way to go. But I don't like it called a California corner. If it was , it wouldn't work.

[@tyhackathorn2878]

thank you, i've been searching a lot of videos on how to do a corner stud wall and nobody has one on here , your video was very helpful.

[@mattkobus]

Greatly appreciated! Your use of visuals is an outstanding touch. As a Weekend Warrior, I applaud your sharing of your trade skills.

[@jtltet]

The 3 stud corner is the more energy efficient corner because you can insulate all the way into the corner. Also, if you put enough nails or screws in it, it will not separate from the other stud. It is definitely my preferred corner over the 4 stud corner.

[@StarfishIntl]

Question: Is not an almost 6"x8" solid corner insulated well enough, would it really lose a significant amount of heat?

[@Lifenrichments]

I am not sure what you mean. Are you saying using a 6x8 solid board for the corner? Or referring to a 4 stud corner? If it is a solid wood corner, that is insulated enough, the 4 stud corner can be insulated and is the most common used and the most sturdy of all the corners. Anytime you are framing and you can shove insulation in gaps and cracks, you will be fine..

[@jtltet]

Wood is a TERRIBLE insulator. If you look at your wall thru an infrared camera, every where there is a stud you will see that it is a cold spot compared to where the insulation is. You need insulation in the corners and a 3 stud corner is the best way to get the maximum insulation.

[@jtltet]

You can't "shove" insulation in gaps & cracks. If you compress the insulation, it loses it's insulating ability.

[@Lifenrichments]

Jonathan Trivette In the real world, no one builds houses with 3 stud corners because it isn't strong enough, especially if you are building a multilevel house. Also when you are framing walls, provided you are doing it correctly, bringing two walls at a 90 together creates the 4 stud corner. As far as shoving insulation in cracks, no one said pack it in and compress it. Many companies use spray insulation in corners and cracks these days and it seems to be doing great. But even after construction, everyone should use some form of insulation layer on the outside walls before hanging siding or bricking. The thing that gets me about all this, this video is about the different types of corners you can build and really more to do with an inside wall. This was never intended to be a discussion about insulation. And honestly, I would sacrifice a little insulation for a stronger corner. But carpentry just like mechanics, everyone has their own way of doing things and not everyone is going to see eye to eye on everything..

[@DiogenesNephew]

3 stud corner seems to be best for running electrical and decreasing thermal bridging. Just reinforce it if you gotta.

[@Paul-gz5dp]

The 4 stud corner has one flaw far as contractors see, and that is cost. I agree with what you say about using blocks to go between, and I have done this in repair of a wall before. Also what you are saying about using a brain is something that many do not seem to be willing to do. Also 16" is standard, but I have seen much less such as 12" between studs on supporting walls.

[@TrehanCreekOutdoors]

Framing techniques need to fit the construction situation. For instance, I am about to frame up a storage shed where the interior wall cavity will be open in some areas or have pegboard hung in a few locations. Either the 2 stud corner with clips where pegboard will be hung or (better yet) the 3 stud California corner method will work just fine. There isn't going to be any drywall in my shed. The pegboard is a much stronger material than drywall and won't pull loose, if properly installed, so the 3 stud corner will give all the strength needed for wall support and sufficient nailing area. Many garage interiors might also be framed this same way. Your video is very nicely done! Thanks for sharing it.

[@aldeureaux5184]

Good video. In my opinion, you always do the best job you can do because your name is on it.

[@markevans7584]

Great video, I like the California corner for non structural, closets, etc. you gave me knowledge, thank you

[@sidroniogomez912]

hey bro thank you so much for your video for people like you sharing that knowledge many beginners we can make money doing those jobs absolutely I will take the 4

[@desmondfrancis7443]

The 4 stud corner is exactly what I needed. Thanks soo much!!

[@880life.7]

good video. I actually use the 3 stud corner really often even if I agree that a 4 stud corner is better. I haven't had any problems with the 3 stud method.

[@timpresicci6648]

Thank you for the video. You're right there are very few, if any videos that show in detail how to make a corner. I wish I found this sooner...

[@calidoggie]

At 3:06 the horizontal piece of drywall should have been moved to the left, then the vertical piece butted up against it. That way the support for the drywall is more even.

[@ibrogren]

calidoggie m

[@jeebus6263]

Good observation! I think that's for the clip ~6:06

[@brknnphx]

Thank you!! Looking at buying an Octagon house and want to build separate rooms in ,if i buy. This is very helpful 🙂

[@giovanniyorke7455]

This was exactly what I was looking for. GREAT VIDEO, well put together and u got straight to the point, FANTASTIC!!

[@kellysmith3152]

Those 4 stud corners are good for your outside corner trim boards .lot of people never think about that and it sucks for doing siding if you don't have that backing

[@jasonbell5152]

Swinging a 2x4 or 2x6 perpendicular to the opposing wall, the middle picture, to gain a corner drywall nailing/screw surface is totally fine for drywall. Clamp the lumber with a quick grip, shoot the nails. PL glue to make it even stronger, done. Drywall screws don't pop because of so-called "California corners", but because the installer wrongly fastened the screw or the jobsite was rained on, soaking the lumber, and the drywallers showed up the next day. Drywall seams split because the nailing surface is flimsy or absent or the drywaller didn't close the gap between the board and nailing surface or hanged the sheets on soaking wet lumber that dried and shrunk after the tape coat. If, after nailing the "California" stud in place, then testing for rigidity and achieving a positive solid result, that stud is good and strong. All stud walls should be fire blocked, making even stronger; exterior walls diagonally-braced. A strong stud wall shouldn't move. And if strong, the drywall shouldn't move.

[@jonathanswanson2938]

Great video! Easy to understand and the best one I have found-by far! Thank you 👍🏼

[@Lifenrichments]

Glad this video helped and thanks for the compliment.

[@johnwasik1186]

The California corner is the best today. 4 stud corner is stronger but is also old school. 2 reasons why California corner is better today. One is lumber costs and two, the most important is that the California corner allows for continuous insulation in that corner..

[@mhb-hz9ud]

"if you don't really care about it , if you want to get it done and you're just trying to sell it or whatever" pretty much sums up the issues with new builds.

[@paradoxdea]

Thank you very much for your video. I've been going crazy wondering how to properly frame a wall corner. Much obliged!!

[@josephmckay9046]

I hope that when you use the 4 stud corner, you put insulation in the open spots. That would be considered a cold spot if you don't.

[@RandyD1972]

Good tip on those exterior corners. I'm looking at tackling my basement in sections as I can afford and was wondering how to start and handle it.

[@andrewwest4470]

Makes complete sense. Thank you for this

[@carlinglis7705]

Thank you - very useful information and helped me make a decision about the walls of my (soon to be built) workshop.

[@JohnJohn-lb1bm]

Kind of funny I just put my corners in today this would help a lot 15 hours ago but it looks like I've done a good job ,thanks for the vid👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

[@jrandall5736]

If you nail 3 corner studs thru top and bottom plates 1/2 from edges they are not twisting or warping later.

[@captainmcpuffpuff6747]

Great video, we always did the 4-stud corner, found it to be more secure.

[@ronaldlehmann6935]

Great information- learned something- will look for more to come- Thank You

[@carlobert9820]

Very good explanation. Thank you.

[@FinancialJourney]

very well explained video. good stuff

[@juniormyers5378]

Good points, this video helped me Tremendously! Thank you sir.

[@amandabruney3835]

definitely helps. I recently tore down a house. they used the your favorite corner

[@johndeneen980]

Excellent job!

[@dogisgodluca]

great video!

[@darrylhudson918]

Yes, 3 stud corner is more energy efficient. Check with your local building codes.

[@tonybove2468]

I’m building next year, and I’m planning on doing the 4-stud corner, but replacing 2 of the 2x4s with a 4x4. Faster, and stronger.

[@meshedgears2794]

Hi Tony, I saw your reply to the wall framing strategies video and I am also building next year, provided I get through the crazy paperwork involved with permits. The guy in the video likes his 4 stud method because its stronger, while that's true as a column it is not necessary unless the engineer has placed a point load that must be carried by the column. I plan on using a method that was developed in commercial metal framing. The guys developed that method over 30 plus years ago and now its being used in wood. Its also a copy of the SIP method but with stick framing. I don't know about you, but for me cost is an issue and placing unnecessary wood into the corner and reducing my insulation just doesn't make sense. In most cases the engineer with place the hold downs etc away from the corner so having a bunch of studs located there does nothing after all the studs are sitting on a wood platform making the "strength" only as good as the empty space below the 4 stud column. I will assume you know how to frame so I will just say I plan to build the wall and hold back the stud on the opposite side. I also leave the stud loose on the end and when the sheet rock is added to the completely framed wall I pin the loose stud to the wall through the sheet rock into the top and bottom plates. I sometimes get the angle right and capture the plate when I toe nail. The fire blocking is also a nail point about half way up. It makes a completely structural wall that is well insulated. Its two studs and goes up fast. Good luck on the build. -MG

[@meshedgears2794]

I complement the effort to do a video, but have to say I like the two stud wall myself. I agree with with you regarding the clip corner with two stud, that is going to crack. Unfortunately I disagree about the "strength" of the four stud wall. It's stronger as a column yes but unless the engineer has design the corner to be loaded then its just overkill. It makes you feel good but really doesn't help. hold downs and loads are kept away for corners and edges typically. The hold downs form a cone into the concrete and that cone requires space so load bearing is usually held away from edges and corners. The 4 stud method feels good but is expensive in time and material. If you go the advanced framing route using 24 inch on center studs and a continuous wallboard all the way through you can then mount the opposite stud wall on top of the wall board. This method has been used by steel framers for 30+ years. The steel framers produce a structurally sound wall in a few minutes, where doing the cutting and stacking etc of the 4 stud method takes several, and time is money. The first response to just finishing the wall to the end is "its not strong enough" but if that were true then the entire wall is not strong enough. So for your two stud corner remove the clip and slide the wall (with the clip) back 1/2 or 5/8 away finish the wall with wall board. frame the opposing wall and leave the corner stud loose. When you wall board the first wall attach the loose stud with fasteners about 1/2 inch longer, its very fast and thermally superior and most of the time you toe nail into the other wall depending on your aim. Oh, before someone says anything about electrical or plumbing you just notch the sheet rock at the correct location after all its not seen, some guys just knock it with there axe but that's a bit crude, couple cuts with a blade and going around corners is not a problem. -MG

[@DanAbsalonson]

This was helpful. Thank you.

[@damianojeda7017]

I was going to use a cali corner because it uses less material but after you said it can bow over time, im switching to the 4 block corner

[@samgm3618]

Thankyou for diagrams Very helpfull

[@carolinadeboersalinas7275]

Thank you! That was VERY helpful!

[@deemarrero9]

Thanks very helpful

[@Bangkok-ik1fp]

Excellent! Thank you!

[@lonnieclemens8028]

I think I will do the 4 stud corner on my garage.

[@Chimp_No_1]

Extremely helpful and interesting. Thanks.

[@jasonbeisiegel5550]

Just an old timer who can't get past the old ways are best mindset.

[@c.philipmckenzie]

So helpful, and I really appreciate the humble spirit. Thank you.

[@thecarpenter9408]

great video man looking forward to the next

[@Lifenrichments]

Thanks, have more to come if I can stay out of hospitals...LOL

[@simmons488]

Thank you!!!

[@diegocantona9627]

top work. thanks 👍

[@leerplanoscadenusa226]

BUEN VIDEO.

[@wilsonaguirregomez3751]

Great video. Thank you for sharing :)

[@djurgens76]

Good video, great instructions

[@derekrowlands1189]

Great piece of information.

[@JasonSmitheng]

Great tips!

[@quiksilver386]

Your video was very helpful, I am currently remodeling my house from Hurricane Harvey and I’m a DIYer and I love that KZbin has people like you to give sound advice! 👍🏼👍🏼 Quick question, when you have a 90 degree wall to connect to, which side gets the 4 corner set up?

[@Lifenrichments]

I may not be understanding the question fully but it wouldn't matter which side. Remember, you are building sort of a 3 stud corner in one wall, dosen't matter which one. Then the other wall will start with just one stud. When that one stud from the other wall joins the other, that makes the 4 stud corner. Does that make sense? One wall gets on the end, two studs separated by three 2x4 blocks. Then the other wall joining at a 90 degree, the first single stud in that wall nails to it.

[@quiksilver386]

Life Enrichments I wasn’t sure if one wall verses the other would be better for the 3 stud to go on. I should have worded my question a little differently but you answered my question. 👍🏼👍🏼 thank you!

[@Ee-ul4ul]

Gracias amigo, Thank you Sir!! 👍👍👍👍

[@jasonbender1902]

This deff helped not much out their about it 👍👍👍

[@marcospacheco9110]

very good

[@schulmj69]

I found this really helpful

[@Lifenrichments]

Glad it could help

[@ericb1339]

Great info

[@masonprice1613]

Thanks brother, that helped nicely

[@joedavi1920]

#3 is the best and only legal corner per building codes others are illegal

[@glennryzebol4472]

and now I understand. Thanks bro. Good vid.

[@mimo27397]

3 stud corner is the best for colder climates you can get a higher R value, 4 stud corners are a thing of the past really

[@lanceoa]

4 stud corner - end of story

[@joebrann4805]

thank you!! very much

[@squigglyline2813]

Pretty good thanks. Im trying to figure out if I have 1, 2, or 3. I'm not sure if a stud finder would help me figure it out or not. Hypothetically if I had #1, i wonder if the stud finder would pick up the stud that I'd be bumping up against in the corner, thus giving a false beep. I need to put a hook in there but it isn't long enough to hit a stud behind drywall. But the anchors go too deep if there's a stud back there.

[@johnross4958]

The California corner is the best

[@Lifenrichments]

that is a matter of opinion and if you already know all about corners, why are you even watching this video? That doesn't make sense.

[@tenatrapp8321]

Thank you!! This helped me a lot!!

[@jurnagin]

just use the 4 studs, use scrap for middle piece, I used full stud on my house, what's a couple bucks to make your corner stronger? and as far as insulation goes you won't notice a difference by using extra stud, you'll loose more heat when you open door!

[@Brandon-td2sm]

Cali Corner is better for insulation purposes, lots of leaks from corner of houses. Good video though!

[@tamerhamdy3308]

wonderful

[@davenovak5139]

Outstanding, Thanks!!!

[@thebigcountry8518]

Thank you for this video ! It was very easy to understand. I personally like the 4 and yes I get the purpose of the 3 (california) but a person isn't going to lose that much insulation R factor enough to cry about like I read in comments below..You'll only be insulating 3/4 of an inch in there anyway.You still have a wood corner..Give me a break already LOL Besides if someone's going to nick pick a corner. Use 2x6 studs set at 26 c throughout your walls anyhow and cut down on wood. I'm a woman and I know that..geez ;-)

[@thebigcountry8518]

and you're cheap & no good if you use the clips ..SLAP !!!

[@Brandon-no3vc]

how does the 16 inch center and 8 foot sheets of drywall break on the center of the stud if the corners are done like this???

[@grantdavidson5069]

Great advice. Cheers.

[@elkallatemcc3023]

That works in some places where the snow doesn't get too high but you can use the for stud method on a 2 x 4 wall but what if it's 2 x 6 you going to use the five stud method

[@KyleMelsonOKC]

Use the three stud method and just use three 2x6s. Then you can insulate behind.

[@jordanbergmann4067]

If youre using 5 studs for a single corner youre wasting waaaaaay too much lumber and creating some serious cold spots due to the thermal bridging youre creating that cannot be insulated. For the love of god just build cali's. This isnt 1922. Framing methods need to change and evolve sometimes. Theres a reason why old Victorian houses are structure fires waiting to happen and it aint just a coincidence homes arent balloon framed any more.

[@leanneguerrettaz3410]

Very helpful!! Thank you!!

[@Lifenrichments]

You are welcome

[@steelyspielbergo]

You don't screw drywall in the corners, you float them....if you're not afraid of new ideas

[@LNCMNLY-bm7bx]

yes it helped thx man

[@Brandon-no3vc]

so do you have to make your through wall longer so you dont have to cut your 1st sheet of drywall? and the plywood sheet siding wont go all the way to the one corner? hows that all work?

[@PBS-nm1uu]

i am interested in learning how to tile floors, especially leveling the floors also doors and windows thanks for your input..

[@Lifenrichments]

Are you talking tile over concrete floors or over wooden floors? Also what type of info do you need on Windows and Doors?

[@NoName-be5ir]

Interior wall corners non load bearing walls , and knowing wire running through corners

[@omfgishBenneh]

I'm no expert, but while using screws in the 3 post method may seem like extra work - when it comes time to feed cable through the studs, the 3 post will be much easier in my opinion

[@Lifenrichments]

Even though people run wires in the corners, you are not supposed to. I have worked with electricians on new constructions, they would use the extra wire to go up and over to run the wire to the next wall. People only run the wire in the corners to save money by using the shortest amount of wire they can. The reason you are not supposed to run the wires in a corner is because of the hard bend it has to make. You stress the wire and insulation on the wire, even taking a chance of tearing the insulation on the wire. But over time, with the wire in such a bend inside of wood that actually shifts in shape, will wear and break the wire down. Most don't realize that wood swells and contracts, especially exterior wall wood. It isn't a lot, but if your hole in the coroner is tight on the wire, it will eventually break down. People also fail to realize, you want your corners strong. When you build strong corners, it helps keep the walls plumb over decades. In the old days, they actually used to run studs at angles to the corners for strength. Yes they notched out the studs for the one at an angle. Then they eventually learned that doing a 4 stud corner did the same thing. Now you have idiots with this "Advance Framing" concept that want to use metal brackets and 2 studs for a corner. They rely on the plywood that goes on the outside corners to add the strength. I'll pass, I like my 4 corner studs. However, if you are building an interior corner, it really doesn't matter, other than having enough edge to nail your drywall to.

[@omfgishBenneh]

@@Lifenrichments up and over it is! :D

[@meshedgears2794]

@@Lifenrichments So just to clarify, and taking the way back machine. The cross bracing was done to prevent racking and they stopped doing it because back in the day a 2x4 was actually 2x4 they learned that cutting the studs more than half way was bad for the wall. They also allowed studs to be pieced together end to end again not really a strong product, multiple studs in corners by themselves do nothing unless there's a point load in the corner.

[@SparkeyDogfish]

Great vid.

[@JoseVargas-vp1ov]

That was good stuff thanks

[@gabrielgonzales8163]

buenos videos construccion work #1

[@bigR23487]

Thank you!

[@meshedgears2794]

Wow just read all the comments interesting mixed bag of responses. Just so anyone who happens to see this video and thinks 4 corners is "the way to go". The video just shows corners and how to frame that's it. He says he likes four corner studs that's all he does nothing wrong with that. What he says about the 4 stud corner being stronger than the others is technically wrong without providing how its stronger. If your building on a slab then yep a 4 stud column is stronger but if your building on a second level or a raised floor the strength allowed by the floor system below defines the "strength". Having a super strong corner on a raised floor that collapses under load does not help much. One other common sense thought if the corner needs this why doesn't the rest of the wall. There's nothing wrong with doing 4 stud corner but personally I'll stick with a 2 stud method (no clip) and its just as strong and cost me less. If the engineer designs a point load in a corner then you bet I will build the column just as designed but for me no need to spend the money I don't have. -MG

[@duketran62]

If groove and tongue woods are used interiorly, would the 2 or 3 studs make the better choice? Thanks

[@Trek50000]

I am drywalling my shed. Just did the spray form and realized I have no nailer on all four corners. Any suggestions what should I do at this point?

[@Lifenrichments]

I am not sure what you mean you did the spray form. If it is the spray foam type of insulation, then I think I understand, you applied it before you made room to get an extra stud in place to catch the corner for you sheet rock. I hate using these Drywall Back-up Clips, but since this is a shed, you should be fine. Use at least 6 per corner and you should be OK. Here is the link to buy them. amzn.to/3f3J5KW

[@gonephishing100]

Structural integrity vs thermal consistency.

[@imrichbtch1995]

Could you use a 4x4 then 2 2x4?

[@MikeRobishaw]

This was very informative. I’m sketching my plans for an 18 x 18 wood shop. Would you recommend using treated pine for my wall studs if I plan to use treated siding for the exterior? Or could use non treated / above ground pine studs? Building on a concrete pad. Live in Florida. Thank you. Enjoy your teaching method.

[@brandonrox221]

Need treated wood where touches concrete.