Walnut Finishing Oil and Sanding Lubricants

[@richardgronostajski5]

What a great video. I love the way Mike explains the scientific basis for how oils and other finishes work. This is the first video of his I've seen but I'll be watching the rest of them.

[@ianblackman1953]

Thanks for the lesson Dr. This would be good topic for Fine Woodworking.

[@tmikeporter]

A very helpful augment to your earlier explanation in person.

[@tomseymour9925]

Thanks for the video. I have been using, and loving the Doctor's Woodshop products for a couple of months now. The video cleared up a few of the finer points for me. Love your products!! Thanks again!

[@DancingFox6]

I’d like to know more about shear scraping with walnut oil. Is there another video?

[@melskaggs2210]

great sanding- tried it on 2 pieces this week, wish I`d known about this long time ago.

[@bradvietjeastronomy2872]

Thank you -- very nice. This is wet sanding of dry wood, and I can see many advantages. I also wet sand wet wood --first with water, then after about 220, I have the option of mopping up/blotting as much moisture as I can, and then going through 2-3 more grits with oil. The wood is still wet, and I don't try to generate much heat at this step. Then they air dry a few months, and I re-mount and repeat the last grit with oil, or use a non-woven pad with oil to eliminate any raised fibers. For a warped bowl, I can't go real fast, so there is not all that much heat generated. Oil finishing unseasoned wood does work, but probably results in a little less initial penetration. Luke Mann did a lot of studies of this about 15 years ago.

[@patricklorne1407]

Great job Mike. Always so informative. Turners need to know the health benefits of your products, Dockfly

[@MarkAndrewsOCFOA]

I just tried my first attempt at sanding with the Doctorwoodshop walnut oil and all I can say is Wow! I started with 120 grit and the finish honestly feels like 320 or 400 and the tool marks disappeared almost immediately. I hate sanding and this makes me really happy!!!

[@zenletter]

What brand is that blue dust collector pipe and hood in the background please.

[@Shaka_Vibe]

Great video... thank you! Can you please tell me where you got that blue and orange flexible dust collector? Looks like it stays right where you want it!

[@lawrencealdridge-yk6dm]

mr mike would olive oil work the same way ????????? great videos learning alot

[@michaelmeredith721]

Olive oil is not one of the drying oils, it does not have enough unsaturation to bond to itself. Olive oil will become rancid rather than harden.

[@lawrencealdridge-yk6dm]

@@michaelmeredith721 thank you mr mike learning more&more each time!

[@kerrysaunders3685]

Does it act like a sanding sealer?

[@ef2b]

Can you use this technique if the project is a mixture of turned and non-turned components, e.g., a chair, bed, or something with turned cabriole legs? The concern is that somehow one must get a comparable appearance on components that never go on the lathe, like the headboard on the bed or chair seat, or one might be planning to dye the wood. Is there a way to still use this technique as far as having a cutting lubricant and reducing dust? Maybe if you stop with the cleaning and skip the heated polishing of the turned parts and rubbed down the flatwork components with oil? Could you use water as a lubricant (realizing there will be raised grain to deal with)? Thank you for the excellent video.

[@TheDoctorswoodshop]

I honestly don't know about matching surface appearance. You can use the sanding lubricant with a random orbital sander or a drill sander. I've got my doubts about a belt sander.

[@I-build-crafts]

Is Mineral oil a drying oil also?

[@TheDoctorswoodshop]

No, mineral oil (aka parafin oil) does not dry, ever. It just seeps out of the wod over time.

[@patrickthompson1454]

What do you do to finish the part of the bowl that is attached to the lathe? Thank you

[@TheDoctorswoodshop]

To finish the tenon, reverse the bowl and hold with a jam chuck, vacuum chuck or Longworth chuck to shape the bottom. Sand with lubricant as was done for the rest of the bowl, clean and friction polish the oil then apply the film finish of choice is any is to be used.

[@firstnamelastname-lr2vf]

good video! thanks........ one question, i assume shellac can be applied immediately afterwards?

[@boooshes]

It absolutely can. Can also be mixed with the oil. If you rub it on, you don't want the surface too warm and it needs to be carried with enough oil to not gum up. Always experiment, oil and shellac are great combos, imo.

[@orgcoast5990]

Does regular sandpaper work as well as wet/dry paper? Also, can your friction polish be applied on the walnut oil after sanding? I assume it can but just wish to make certain.

[@TheDoctorswoodshop]

Most sandpapers are made with water-soluble adhesives, so oil won't bother it. I use the Klingspor cloth back paper but others will do also. When you are finished sanding, clean the surface very well with fresh oil and then friction polish to set the oil. After that, you can apply any finish.

[@orgcoast5990]

@@TheDoctorswoodshop OK and thanks. I very much like your products.

[@markchoitz443]

Great show Doctor. Thanks for the information and demo. Do you need to worry about carrying some rougher grit into the next finer sanding? Or just wipe with paper towel between grits?Mark

[@TheDoctorswoodshop]

I suppose it's possible that some grit is lost. In truth, I've never thought about it. The fresh oil should wash the surface and remove the residual grit into the next grit.

[@I-build-crafts]

thanks

[@markhobster8113]

thanks for this vid as there are not a lot of videos about wet sanding bowls on a lathe, ive been experimenting on a few pieces and have had problems with power sanding paper gunking up instantly, so you use wet and dry paper when power sanding or just plain hook and loop sand paper?

[@TheDoctorswoodshop]

I use the hook and loop discs. To help the gunking problem, I keep a plastic dish of walnut oil on the bed ways held in place by a magnet. Dipping the pad in the oil frequently will help keep the slurry loose enough to keep sanding. I also have a roller window shade mounted over my lathe so I can pull it down and protect my work area from the gunk wet sanding can throw around.

[@markhobster8113]

thanks buddy and sorry I meant the power sanding discs you use are they hook and loop wet and dry or just standard dry hook and loop ? :) Im going to try again wet sanding on the next project

[@TheDoctorswoodshop]

The only wet/dry paper I use is for 2000 grit and above and that is not hook and loop.

[@markhobster8113]

TheDoctorswoodshop thanks a lot ill give your technique a whirl :)

[@lindawortman6449]

M

[@oldrudedog]

What a mess!. I use OB shine juice and get the same results. He's just trying to sell his product which is way over priced.

[@MrDjagg]

who wants that mess all over slow down to about 200 or 300 rpms to much oild being thrown around

[@johnwallace4408]

Man, you have to be a chemistry teacher /professor. Way to complicated explanation for the AVERAGE WOODTURNER to understand! SAFE TURNING, John