Want to build your own 52V E-Bike Battery Pack? Here's How (Reention DP6 52V 13ah 15ah 16ah 17.5ah)

[@Funermen]

Loved the little radrunner fumble at the beginning lol

[@ShakeyJake117]

Real life video, lol

[@miloraddimich]

You are second one from thousand person on you tube showing slowly to the people to see everything and not to get kill.Gid bless you .

[@PRL1290]

Very clean build, great job!

[@lanpirate1]

Great job. I just ordered this battery with 30Q cells from you. These videos helped me with my decision.

[@Retepz5]

Hey thanks a lot for creating this video. I rarely comment on youtube but really enjoyed your informative well thought out process and your interaction with the comments willing to learn from others. Keep up the awesome work! Back to building my 14SP6 but I think I'll order a few more things now to make the project much neater.

[@justinshields7501]

Have you tried the copper nickel sandwich method? I've been using 0.1 copper with 0.1 nickel plated steel. Copper is four times more efficient than nickel. Thanks for supporting the diy community. You are really good at explaining how to do things 👍

[@ElectricBikeLaboratory]

Hi there ! Yes Copper is amazing, we use it on all of our high discharge packs. For us this nickel that we use (0.2mm) does not even get warm when discharging the pack constantly at 30A, the cells get more warm than the nickel. On Sur Ron / Stealth Bomber / any P42A or P45B pack we tend to use copper plates that are CNC made from an Alibaba company that are super reasonably priced. Thank YOU for the comment and for supporting our channel !! :)

[@jessicamelville3011]

Just curious about the bms being 48v . This is a 52v build? Looking at using your video for my first battery build and want to make sure it’s a 52v using a 48v bms. Done many repairs but never from scratch. Thanks for the video

[@ElectricBikeLaboratory]

DALY refers to 13S and 14S as 48V. I know, it's confusing. This is 14S which is normally referred to as 52V. Thanks for the comment !

[@lanpirate1]

Nice work! It would be a great value added service if you could send pics of the build for your customer's batteries.

[@ElectricBikeLaboratory]

That's a great idea ! :D

[@startcherif]

Very Nice vidéo

[@josephoshagbemi2507]

Thank you Samil, please kindly send me clear diagramm of how to wire my reention dp 9 lithium e bike battery to charge and switch asap. thank you for doing a great job of putting novice like me thruogh.

[@josephoshagbemi2507]

Please kindly help me with how to wire my Reention DP9LITHIUM ION BATTERY WHI IS ALMOST COMPLETE. It is for 91 cells and a separate charge and discharge pots. A good diagram will be okay. Thanks.

[@josephoshagbemi2507]

A great job you ve done. Thank you so so much.

[@wayneevans5050]

great u tube. I need to make the same spec battery for a bikebuild but the pak has to be shorter by a row and longer across to get the cell count in the case that I will build myself. I need it to be 52 volt 14 0r 17 ah . what cells am I looking for. and where do Impurchase good cells? who has hte supplies like the nickel strips , tape ,and such.

[@Lucas-Lngls]

hi, don't you put foam to prevent the battery from moving in the case?

[@startcherif]

Hi, Please, where I find the soldering ( Nickel strip as your. Thanks

[@GregRise]

Can you share a link to the BMS that fits in the side or the dimensions? Maybe a link for the glue you use as well. I've taken apart a few packs like these and I often see fuses used as well. Any reason not to include a fuse? Overall very nice tutorial.

[@TheLeontheking]

Definitely should use a fuse for safety I'd say. Need to pick one with high enough tolerance to not blow during high discharge currents, but will include one in my build.

[@JustinTimeEnglishClip]

Nice one! It must be tight with the BMS on the side. I have used this case.

[@ElectricBikeLaboratory]

Oh it's a tight one for sure 😁 But it does fit!

[@JustinTimeEnglishClip]

@@ElectricBikeLaboratory What AWG is the charge wire you run at the bottom?

[@ElectricBikeLaboratory]

18 Gauge , usually supplying 3A of charge current

[@JustinTimeEnglishClip]

Thanks! I have built a couple myself. I wish I had seen your vid first; it's a well-thought-out way. I learned a lot. My next will be easier 🙂

[@simonaquarian9049]

Wish to build a 52v 15ah (14s4p)ebike battery. It's for a 48v 1000w rear motor. BMS is 30a. Can someone tell me what the required discharge current at end of battery cell description is ? Does it need to be 30 as the BMS is 30a or the ah of battery?(15 in this case).just looking for best cell to buy,thanks

[@Just4fun6425]

What would be the strongest design for 8,000+ watts

[@earlybird3668]

excellent. thank you.

[@Kay0Bot]

solder on wires first , less heat introduced into battery cellls

[@ElectricBikeLaboratory]

That is a great point! Thanks for the comment :)

[@normanwray1341]

Hello dear friend I'm trying to understand you very interesting thank😅😊

[@ivigouroux]

I have been looking into building my own battery and I came across many other 18650 battery with a higher mah amount (99900,66600, 88800)... Can these be used in the build and if so are they any advantages/disadvantages on doing so? Thank you for the amazing built videos that you guys are making, they are very instructive!

[@ElectricBikeLaboratory]

Those are all fake numbers unfortunately, current highest for 18650s is 3500mah

[@KettlebellGunsmith]

@25:20 - How not to solder wires together.

[@ДмитрийК-ф3у]

Thanks!!! It's very useful!!! But you hide how to instal battery with BMS in box ;) ... It not stands in stansrd variant ;)

[@ElectricBikeLaboratory]

Yes BMS mounted on the side for these ones, its a bit tricky for sure! 👌

[@CameraActionBureau]

Can you build me a 72v gas tank battery?

[@iamspock]

Everything is really well done except you didn't heatshrink and seal the battery ... the plastic case isn't waterproof and so any water that gets into the case will form vapour and enter the battery pack causing damage and possibly fire hazard due to short circuit from corrossion ... this is why most quality branded battery packs are sealed.

[@ElectricBikeLaboratory]

Thanks for the feedback , blue heat shrink can definitely help but the cables still have to exit and water can get in there. In our experience the multiple layers of Kapton all around the pack help to seal it well. We've opened up packs we built around 4 years ago and no corrosion! We have used Blue Shrink around the pack in the past but it tends (for us) to compromise the cable exits of the pack. We have also rebuilt dozens of packs from other manufacturers who had their batteries shrink wrapped in blue shrink but the owners left their bike out in a rainstorm and even despite being shrink wrapped the packs were severely water damaged. So blue shrink is not a panacea fix either it seems. Regardless we appreciate the feedback ! We do make sure our packs are "sealed" even if that doesn't specifically mean blue shrink wrap at the end , but we are open to exploring that again for sure 😊 Thanks for the comment !

[@iamspock]

@@ElectricBikeLaboratory Normally silicone sealant is used to seal the holes in the heatshrink. I'm not someone who likes riding in the rain, so I'm not sure I would have a problem with a pack that wasn't heat shrinked, but I did open up my generic batterry case to take a look inside, it was similar DIY case to what you use, and the batterry was very neatly sealed in heatshrink and sealed with silicone, but it was one of the better quality packs. Certainly e-scooters and Electric Unicycle batteries are fully sealed against water, usually in aluminium or plastc housings that fit inside the vehicle body, so those manufacturers are cetrtainly taking precautions despite the extra cost.

[@bestestname6757]

Nothing is water proof. Better to let it drain/ evaporate