Want to build your own 52V E-Bike Battery Pack? Here's How (Reention DP6 52V 13ah 15ah 16ah 17.5ah)

One of our most requested video!
This is a complete walk through guide of how to build a 52V Battery using the very popular and durable Reention DP6 Casing.
This same process allows you to build a 13AH / 15AH / 16AH / 17.5AH pack depending on what kind of cells you are using.
This video goes through the process of the side mounted BMS which can be tricky to install. Be sure to watch till the end to see the secret tips we use to fit the BMS inside!
We offer this battery pre-built here in many configurations;
www.affordableebikes.ca/produ...
0:00 - Intro
0:40 - Cell Layout
1:09 - Nickel Plate Install First Side
2:04 - Checking Cell Voltage
2:30 - Nickel Plate Install Second Side
2:51 - Spot Weld Nickel Plates
3:07 - Capacity Variations
3:39 - Wrap Pack with Heat Resistant Tape
4:49 - Prep Tabs/Terminals for Balance Leads
6:01 - BMS Placement
8:19 - Temperature Sensor
9:00 - Solder Battery Negative Wire
10:40 - Balance Lead Layout/Soldering
13:57 - Checking Balance Leads are Correct
14:51 - Base Components/Prep
17:40 - Scratch/Solder Prep
18:45 - Installing Indicator Wires
19:33 - Charge Wires/Discharge Wires Layout
21:09 - Soldering Wires
24:20 - Cover with Fish Insolation Paper
24:48 - Solder Positive/Negative Wires
25:28 - Glue Down Wires
25:40 - Switch Wires Layout/Soldering
25:55 - Wrap with Fish Paper/ Attach Lid
26:13 - Outro

[@Funermen]

Loved the little radrunner fumble at the beginning lol

[@lanpirate1]

Great job. I just ordered this battery with 30Q cells from you. These videos helped me with my decision.

[@earlybird3668]

excellent. thank you.

[@justinshields7501]

Have you tried the copper nickel sandwich method? I've been using 0.1 copper with 0.1 nickel plated steel. Copper is four times more efficient than nickel. Thanks for supporting the diy community. You are really good at explaining how to do things 👍

[@ElectricBikeLaboratory]

Hi there ! Yes Copper is amazing, we use it on all of our high discharge packs. For us this nickel that we use (0.2mm) does not even get warm when discharging the pack constantly at 30A, the cells get more warm than the nickel. On Sur Ron / Stealth Bomber / any P42A or P45B pack we tend to use copper plates that are CNC made from an Alibaba company that are super reasonably priced. Thank YOU for the comment and for supporting our channel !! :)

[@normanwray1341]

Hello dear friend I'm trying to understand you very interesting thank😅😊

[@lanpirate1]

Nice work! It would be a great value added service if you could send pics of the build for your customer's batteries.

[@ElectricBikeLaboratory]

That's a great idea ! :D

[@Lucas-Lngls]

hi, don't you put foam to prevent the battery from moving in the case?

[@GregRise]

Can you share a link to the BMS that fits in the side or the dimensions? Maybe a link for the glue you use as well. I've taken apart a few packs like these and I often see fuses used as well. Any reason not to include a fuse? Overall very nice tutorial.

[@jessicamelville3011]

Just curious about the bms being 48v . This is a 52v build? Looking at using your video for my first battery build and want to make sure it’s a 52v using a 48v bms. Done many repairs but never from scratch. Thanks for the video

[@ElectricBikeLaboratory]

DALY refers to 13S and 14S as 48V. I know, it's confusing. This is 14S which is normally referred to as 52V. Thanks for the comment !

[@JustinTimeEnglishClip]

Nice one! It must be tight with the BMS on the side. I have used this case.

[@ElectricBikeLaboratory]

Oh it's a tight one for sure 😁 But it does fit!

[@JustinTimeEnglishClip]

@@ElectricBikeLaboratory What AWG is the charge wire you run at the bottom?

[@ElectricBikeLaboratory]

18 Gauge , usually supplying 3A of charge current

[@JustinTimeEnglishClip]

Thanks! I have built a couple myself. I wish I had seen your vid first; it's a well-thought-out way. I learned a lot. My next will be easier 🙂

[@ivigouroux]

I have been looking into building my own battery and I came across many other 18650 battery with a higher mah amount (99900,66600, 88800)... Can these be used in the build and if so are they any advantages/disadvantages on doing so? Thank you for the amazing built videos that you guys are making, they are very instructive!

[@ElectricBikeLaboratory]

Those are all fake numbers unfortunately, current highest for 18650s is 3500mah

[@user-el7ec3nm4r]

Thanks!!! It's very useful!!! But you hide how to instal battery with BMS in box ;) ... It not stands in stansrd variant ;)

[@ElectricBikeLaboratory]

Yes BMS mounted on the side for these ones, its a bit tricky for sure! 👌

[@Kay0Bot]

solder on wires first , less heat introduced into battery cellls

[@ElectricBikeLaboratory]

That is a great point! Thanks for the comment :)

[@nicholasbrus8628]

Everything is really well done except you didn't heatshrink and seal the battery ... the plastic case isn't waterproof and so any water that gets into the case will form vapour and enter the battery pack causing damage and possibly fire hazard due to short circuit from corrossion ... this is why most quality branded battery packs are sealed.

[@ElectricBikeLaboratory]

Thanks for the feedback , blue heat shrink can definitely help but the cables still have to exit and water can get in there. In our experience the multiple layers of Kapton all around the pack help to seal it well. We've opened up packs we built around 4 years ago and no corrosion! We have used Blue Shrink around the pack in the past but it tends (for us) to compromise the cable exits of the pack. We have also rebuilt dozens of packs from other manufacturers who had their batteries shrink wrapped in blue shrink but the owners left their bike out in a rainstorm and even despite being shrink wrapped the packs were severely water damaged. So blue shrink is not a panacea fix either it seems. Regardless we appreciate the feedback ! We do make sure our packs are "sealed" even if that doesn't specifically mean blue shrink wrap at the end , but we are open to exploring that again for sure 😊 Thanks for the comment !

[@nicholasbrus8628]

@@ElectricBikeLaboratory Normally silicone sealant is used to seal the holes in the heatshrink. I'm not someone who likes riding in the rain, so I'm not sure I would have a problem with a pack that wasn't heat shrinked, but I did open up my generic batterry case to take a look inside, it was similar DIY case to what you use, and the batterry was very neatly sealed in heatshrink and sealed with silicone, but it was one of the better quality packs. Certainly e-scooters and Electric Unicycle batteries are fully sealed against water, usually in aluminium or plastc housings that fit inside the vehicle body, so those manufacturers are cetrtainly taking precautions despite the extra cost.

[@bestestname6757]

Nothing is water proof. Better to let it drain/ evaporate