Washer Fix, makes noise/hums but doesn't work

There are plenty of videos on how to disassemble these so I didn't include any of that. Just a quick straight to the point overview of symptoms and causes.
The Kenmore ended up also having what appears to be a sock stuck in the pump: • Sock Stuck In Washer pump
Again, thanks for watching and leave any feedback or questions in the comments and please consider supporting me on patreon
Patreon: / quickfixit
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(Disclaimer: I'm not responsible for your actions. Be mindful and educate yourself before attempting anything you're not familiar with.)

[@livingstone1974]

i had all symptoms. i bought the lid switch, motor couplers, and replaced the clutch assembly and it turned out to be the famous "sock" stuck in the pump. almost went through to the pump exit. Finally got it out and the tub is spinning again. Im not mad bc i learned how to repair the most common problems and i have the spare parts when i need them. All these videos are great.

[@MrKjirvin]

This was my issue your comment saved my day

[@chrismeyer00]

Thank you so much for this! Mine was the centrifugal switch. I'm doing laundry again. Thank you!!!

[@fitto57]

Contact tabs overheated, tabs contacts points stuck together, release tabs points clean to make contact again, motor is good 👍

[@brycegman8150]

Old vid, i replaced my cap since i had one and same nonsense. I turned the basket and agitator several times and it worked for a bit, then went to drain and same. Glad to know about the coupler, didn't tear the whole shroud off. These are a pain, the old machines are so much easier to get at the important bits. Anyhow, thanks. Gonna check that now

[@nelrodriguez7439]

Very good and detailed explanations...t you..

[@eduardomontoya3808]

Your a badass dude, really good explicacion

[@allrock1238]

Do be mindful that WD 40 is quite flammable until its solvents fully dry, so the sparking of switch contacts can ignite it .and be aware the motor starting capacitor can hold a charge so use care there as well to discharge it by shorting across its terminals so you don't get a surprise shock from it (with the machine unplugged) . The motors Centrifugal start switch has a set of contacts that can become pitted and make a bad connection , after you disconnect the motor from its connector you can remove the screw from the switch cover and clean its contacts with mild abrasive and allowing the switch to flow full current to the start winding , or alternately replace the switch assembly with the same model making careful note of the position and color of the wires attached to it , as long as the motor does not have a bad start winding this will often fix a motor that wont start if the capacitor tests good this can solve the motor hums and wont start issue . .

[@geomcc39]

I watch a guy melt the tip of a screw driver on a large capacitor ! they can store high voltage for long time that will kill you !!

[@allrock1238]

@@geomcc39 The nice way to discharge a Cap is to take a socketed 75 W light bulb or high watage 20'000 ohm resistor and , "Drain" the caps charge through it so your not shorting all that stored energy out all at once. example kzbin.info/www/bejne/fna2ZX-MhqmpgMU , "Allways" discharge cap's first before using a multimeter on capacitance test setting or you can damage your test equipment .

[@ngocly3359]

Thanks your video it’s helpful

[@JOEZEP54]

I could use your help. I have a Kenmore 90 Series washer. After completing one load of wash I started a second. The tub filled with water, agitated then stopped. No matter what setting I put it in nothing happens. No humming, nothing. Another Kenmore 90 series washer was given to me. It agitated but no spin. After checking it out it was only a loose wire. Plugged it in & it went through the cycles. Put a load of cloths in & the only cycle that will now work is the spin. Any help on either one of these would be appreciated. I did notice same series but different timer control model. I did check the lid switch, both are good. I even jumped them to make sure.

[@TastyChevelle]

Thanks for this video. I have a related question. I overloaded my washer with too many clothes. I heard the drum banging around during the spin cycle, it got quiet , then I saw the lights flicker in my house like a power surge or something. I go downstairs and there's a bad electronic burning smell. I get the hum like you said when I set it to the spin cycle. However, the smell seems to be coming from the control panel where the knobs are. By your video, I think it might be the timer. Think it's still serviceable? Its a Whirlpool top load direct drive unit.

[@casey17w]

Hi. Nice work on the vid. Question. My whirlpool is about 12 yrs old. It stopped working mid cycle. Tub is full with water. I can move to timer to any cycle but it doesnt do anything. Not sure if the timer should still turn even if the machine doesnt go on or not. I do here a faint hum sound when i pull thr timer to start. Thats it through. Lid switch tested ok. What do ya think? Or how would one go about testing the timer? Thank you so much.

[@viciouslyxdelicious]

I another video Dude said that that sound was actually a capacitor or the motor so which one is it

[@ttc3004]

Awesome thank u

[@uncurlygirl]

I'd like your opinion before I do anymore digging. When my washer broke, it had been in spin mode for noticeably longer than normal. I was zoning in an out of sleep directly above it, vaguely aware that it was spinning too long but too tired to act on it. By the time I sobered up (metaphorically) and went downstaris, there was a burning rubber smell, possibly a little smoke, and it had stopped running but not completed the cycle. I'm pretty sure the circuit breaker had not been tripped -- it's been a few months but I'm almost positive no breaker opening. The washer will fill but nothing more than hum after that. I checked the pump -- clear. Because of the too-long spin cycle when it broke, I'm thinking of starting with the timer although I need to look into how to bench test it (unless there's a way you know of to test it in place under current conditions). But maybe I'm wrong to narrow it down to the timer so quickly. The coupler is a cheap part; I'd be lucky if that were the problem. From what I've said, do you have any opinion on the order of operations I should follow to diagnose? I'm feeling a little cowardly and want someone else to do the thinking for me...Kenmore 80 Series Super Capacity Plus. Thanks, dude.

[@quickfixit8627]

From the get-go it sounds like either the contacts in the timer welded themselves together and/or the motor that turns the timing drum decided not to keep turning. If the timer looks similar to the one in my video you can pull the cover and do a visual inspection with some light prodding making sure not to bend the switch "fingers." Since that's the first symptom I'd start with that, good chance the burning and not running is due to the first failure. If it's humming it sounds like it wants to run but something is mechanically or electrically wrong. If you pull the coupler and pump and just the motor try to run you can rule out mechanical. If you have any questions feel free to ask away.

[@uncurlygirl]

I removed the metal collar around the timer. Should I first test it by starting washer and looking for timer motor movement? Also, can I do the compressed air cleanout and the manual rotation of the timer drum while timer is still mounted? There's terrible connector on this one and I'd rather not remove it until I absolutely have to. Also, you should do a video just on timers, and give it the good production values it deserves. You could do a great job and there isn't one online.

[@quickfixit8627]

Thanks for the suggestion, if I can get the time I'll try to put one out on the timers specifically. If you can see the contacts or get air in there you can try blowing it out while you turn the knob, the motor on the timer is coupled to the drum that actuates the contacts and the knob you turn to select the mode on the face is directly connected to the drum. In this picture you can see the contacts at the top, the drum, and the lower left is the bolt that the knob you turn screws onto. neighboursappliance.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/20140910_150407.jpg They can all be a little different but good chance you don't have to remove it to try cleaning it out.

[@geomcc39]

Thanks great video ! I use CRC electric parts cleaner on many electrical car parts it cost more then WD 40. or you using the wd 40 to lub inner bearing of motor ?

[@quickfixit8627]

Wd40 isn't a great lubricant in my experience. The bearings should be shielded so shouldn't require lubrication. I use it to break things loose that have corroded or sat too long and just need a little help.

[@coreymorgan4206]

I’ve tried and tried to find some information regarding my machine. It’s a Kenmore model 110.29522800. It will fill and agitate fine. Will not drain or spin. Just hums. Removed the pump, it turns free. Removed the motor, as you did, and the motor will start fine to agitate, but needs assistance to run the opposite direction for drain/spin. I have ordered two new motors, and replaced the capacitor. Still hums. The old motor will kick off easier by hand than either of the two new ones. Any ideas? I didn’t think it would be the timer because it will run if I help it start.

[@quickfixit8627]

It shouldn't need help to start, that's what the starting circuit including the capacitor is for. Without finding the wiring diagram for it I'd assume that it's the timer given that there's no mechanical failure and it will agitate. I'd pull the timer and look for bad contacts and clean/redress/replace if necessary.

[@bruceb6176]

I have a kenmore series 700 washer, i have disassembled the whole machine trying to fix the motor buzzing noise. I have changed the motor, capacitor & the timer with all new parts, still having the same motor buzzing noise. I can turn the motor by hand to make it work, which it does, so i sent for a replacement motor again, same thing, motor not spinning, buzzing noise. It has to be something else. Any Ideas????

[@quickfixit8627]

Can you give me the specific model number? If you replaced the components with identical new working ones and you can manually start the motor then the issue sounds to be electrical. I would find the wiring diagram and follow the components to see if there's anything that could prevent the starting circuit from energizing.

[@milanletica1341]

Awesome video - question please, I have the same type of machine motor that does not have a drive belt - the problem is that it will not agitate. I have replaced the motor and the same issue. When it is supposed to agitate the motor just hums. When its in agitation the motor gets really hot. Any ideas?

[@jagboy69]

Reed Valves??? Those are electrical contact points. They are anything BUT serviceable. Once the contact points burn out, it's game over. Sometimes they can be filed to clean them up, but usually not.

[@jagboy69]

@Michael Gieser lol.... yeah really. ;-)

[@courtneyqueenie1145]

I started a load and when I went to put my clothes in the dryer I opened my washer machine and it was full of water and never finished. I have a Maytag Atlantis. My washing machine will not come back on now. Should I replace the timer or the lid switch? I’m so confused !!!

[@quickfixit8627]

Does it make a feint humming sound when you try to turn it on? Cheapest would be to check for a sock in the pump. After that I'd be surprised if it's the lid switch but if you have a basic multimeter you can check it for continuity. Then I'd go after the start capacitor and if that's good then see if you can blow out the timer with some compressed air while turning it, those can be a bit pricey so I avoid replacing them unless it's unavoidable.

[@kevinlee9929]

@@quickfixit8627 I have the same problem as her. My machine will fill with water and wash, but when its time to drain it won't. It just starts doing the humming noise you spoke of. I'm able to drain it manually by just taking the drain hose out. Any idea what could be the problem?

[@mariohernandez-cu5vb]

I took my (3359512b whirpool washer timer) apart and like the dumb person that I am, I can't remember how that white plastic goes between the pins. I'm pretty sure I've got it right but I'm unsure. Can anyone explain to me how it goes?

[@earldaguilar789]

hi my name is her I'm from Jamaica I had a Whirlpool washing machine whenever it wash and let out the water pump don't work for it to rinse it will wash and everything but it won't rinse that is a problem I have with it

[@deasttn]

I suspect my motor is bad because it hums and my capacitor appears to be working (i ohmed it out and it took a charge). I removed my motor from the machine and powered it on, and it still hums. My motor spins fairly easily by hand. So, do you think I've got a bad motor?

[@quickfixit8627]

Sorry about the time delay with my response. If it hums and has nothing to turn try starting it by hand, if it still doesn't start then I would say the motor is fried. The hand starting takes the starting winding, centrifugal switch and capacitor out of the equation.

[@deasttn]

It ended up being a bad capacitor. I need a better multimeter so i can check capacitors (2nd time i've misdiagnosed a bad capacitor).

[@quickfixit8627]

I hear ya on that, right after this video I ended up buying a multimeter not from harborfreight that does capacitance. This is the one I ended up with if you're in the market for one still www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015OFMUYO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 For the price I really like the quality and features it has.

[@donburrows4226]

If I'm able can I replace the switch in the motor

[@quickfixit8627]

The switch in the motor that runs the start circuit is a centrifugal switch which is normally closed at rest, if one were to fail I would expect it to fail closed. In other words it would never turn off the start circuit, wouldn't hurt to test it though. If you google "centrifugal switch on washer" you can get some results including a walk through on testing and replacing one on a particular model.

[@t.thompson9999]

Hi. Does anyone know what could cause a top loader to make noise when I start it but eater won't fill. Already replaced water inlet valve... problem still exist. Thank you in advance!!

[@quickfixit8627]

Water inlet valve? do you have both hot and cold hooked up and purged the air from the lines? Some newer high efficiency models are weird about that. Sorry for the late reply.

[@kristinayoungbbb9539]

my washer will run for like 20 seconds then stop for over 5 mins and run for like 20 sec same cycle over and over till it finishes now when it stops I don't hear the timer motor running so got any ideas?

[@quickfixit8627]

Terribly sorry for my delayed response. Sounds like it may have bad contacts if it just stops mid cycle and does nothing for a set period of time. That little motor may not be audible through the cabinet. From what I gather the drive motor and start circuit are working it just isn't getting the command from the timer so pulling off the dust cover and blowing a duster or compressed air through the contacts may bring it back to life.

[@kevinclair3933]

Old toploading Maytag washer spins but won't agitate. Replaced the 2 belts but in the agitation mode the pump belt moves but it appears the transmission belt and pulley don't. What is the problem?

[@quickfixit8627]

Sounds like it might be a mechanical issue, do you have the model number?

[@kevinclair3933]

@@quickfixit8627 maytag toploading LAT9604AAE...in agitation mode the pump belt moves but the transmissission belt and pulley doesnt... but in spin mode all belts and pulleys move and transmission spins...thx for any help

[@muhammadadil9373]

The machine runs for 10 seconds and then it trips and stop. I noticed the power cable gets hot. I have to reset it and the same thing happens. Any idea?

[@Markiller15]

Hello, I have a kenmore model 110.12852100 and my timer’s model no is 3952958 (the beige one). My problem is that when the cycle gets to spin, I hear the motor (or the pump?), but the drum doesn’t spin, so my clothes are still soaking wet. I’ve checked my timer and the connections seem to be super clean. I still sanded them a little, but the problem is still there. What else do you think it could be ? Thanks !

[@quickfixit8627]

Does it agitate through the wash cycle like normal? Does it pump the water out of the drum? Might be able to narrow it down with a little more information.

[@allrock1238]

Check and make sure you don't have any clothing stuck between the inner drum and the outer tub that is jamming the drum from spinning,, you could have a bad clutch/brake assembly between the bottom of the tub and the transmission under the washer, there are examples on youtube that show how to service the Direct drive washer clutch Assembly

[@ryanwhalen5660]

We have a Kenmore that fills and then hums. If we give it a good bump with our hip it starts back up. Does that narrow down what the issue may be? Thanks

[@quickfixit8627]

Sounds like it's trying to start so I'd rule out the timer, safety switch etc. If percussive maintenance is doing the trick then either the starting capacitor is getting weak and/or there's resistance in the form of a bad bearing or maybe something in the pump. Does it make any strange sounds when it does get running? If no then I would assume it's going to need a new capacitor. Once it's open it wouldn't be too difficult to check the pump to make sure it spins somewhat easily. Won't spin very easily because they use rubber fins that drag the casing but it shouldn't be very difficult.

[@ryanwhalen5660]

@@quickfixit8627 thanks so much. I disconnected the pump and found no blockage. When it's running it sounds fine. I'll pick up a capacitor and see if that does the trick. Thanks again.

[@quickfixit8627]

You're welcome, hope that helped. Let me know if you have any other questions.

[@viciouslyxdelicious]

Me toooooo wtf

[@ashrafmir9779]

My washing motor only hums but not moving

[@ppplll000999]

I have a vintage Sears Kenmore Heavy duty washing machine from 1980 still runs good but the timer starts to act a little bit funny. Timer is ' M' brand . Timer model is M520. Timer number is 20010076. The kenmore washer model is ??? 4050081 . Cannot find it on internet because too vintage! Any info on its equivalent timer to replace it ? Or any suggestion at all. This Kenmore will last for another 10 years if I can find its timer equivalent.

[@quickfixit8627]

Search for "Maytag M520" Maytag is owned by Whirlpool who also produces parts for Kenmore. Found some listings on Ebay, hope that helps!

[@ppplll000999]

@@quickfixit8627 : Thanks

[@justmeiniowa]

The black metal rod on the motor that you were able to spin, I couldn't turn mine by hand. Does that mean that motor is shot?

[@quickfixit8627]

Sounds like the motor is seized, bad bearing or corrosion. You could try working it loose but it might need replacing.

[@justmeiniowa]

@@quickfixit8627 That's what I figured but was hoping for a cheaper fix lol. Thanks for answering !

[@JamesSmith-wg6fo]

So the timer?

[@cjent6945]

My washer just went out on me. It filled up with water and just hums for a while then stops humming and does nothing else. It's a kenmore doesn't agitate spin or drain

[@cjent6945]

I checked the hose its empty and the motor spins easy by hand

[@scole901]

when mine goes to spin, the motor runs but does not spin. if I turn the machine off then on it will spin. what will cause this?

[@quickfixit8627]

So let me make sure I understand. You turn it to a part of the cycle that it should be spinning but doesn't spin but you can hear the motor humming? When you turn it off and back on is the dial in the same part of the cycle from before?

[@scole901]

when the wash cycle is done the machine wiil spin and pump out water. the pump runs but the machine doesn't spin, I turn it off and back on and it spins. yes with the dial at the same spot.

[@quickfixit8627]

If your machine is like most the pump is directly connected to one side of the motor and the drum is connected via a coupler to the other side. Usually when the coupler breaks the drum doesn't move at all but as long as the pump doesn't have a sock stuck in it, it should spin with the motor. I'd take a look at the coupler on the backside of the motor, maybe it's just not completely engaging the drive for the drum. Good Luck, let me know if you have any other questions.

[@HRTsAFyre]

On the timer should any lubricant be used on any part after you blow out the dirt? What if there is a burnt contact? How do you get to it to file off the buildup? Where the purple wire conects to the load temp settings the purple wire is burnt at the plastic connector and I was wondering if that is due to a vad connection in the timer where it gets stuck at the end of the wash cycle. The washer will run all night and never stop therefore it gets very hot. Is the timer the cause of the effect of the burnt terminal wire. Please help Thank you.

[@quickfixit8627]

If the machine runs for as long as you say and has the traditional timer it sounds like the contacts are sticking together, perhaps from either welding themselves together or foreign debris. The burnt connector is an issue of a large load on the circuit over a long time and the resistance being lowest at the junction so it ends up being the weak point. The timer contacts may be toast if they're running like that. The one I showed in the video had burnt contacts that you could try to recondition with a very small file but be careful not to bend the contact leg too far or it won't provide proper pressure to close the circuit. I'll check up on this account more frequently, if you have any more questions I'll be watching from now on.

[@jaimesaavedrap9437]

Excelente puede vender un 3948323C

[@mattrosich]

Its "cen-trif-i-gol" short i sound

[@quickfixit8627]

Yeah you're right, at least I didn't say centripetal.

[@chadsebranek7489]

Uu7

[@w8what575]

$100 or just go grab one out of a parts machine…lol…

[@themaximusone]

Thanks for the video but, You don't need to warn folks if they are to dumb not to unplug anything brotha hell maybe a shock will wake the woke lol