Kenmore/Whirlpool washer motor hums. Doesn't run. Fix it

Kenmore/ Whirlpool/ Many brands of washers can be diagnosed and fixed for very little money. Five things might be wrong when your machine hums and doesn't move. This video covers what the others don't.

[@eriksalmon574]

Thanks so much for putting the time and effort to post this video. No access to repairmen in our area so if I don't fix it only option is buying new. Machine is 34 years old and was working until a foam earplug stopped the water pump. Got that sorted but then it would fill with water and the humming would be the only action it took. Checked what I knew coupler was just replaced and was good, water pump had just been cleared of earplug, brake was good so figured something on the motor was wrong but figured beyond my skill set. Purchased a new machine over the phone and was heading in to pick it up when found your video. Contacts were carboned up and once cleaned machine worked. Will be cancelling order so will be Saving $850 Canadian and 3 hour drive with the truck as well stopped a good machine from going to landfill. Happy.

[@damonmichaels6708]

Hi Erik. Thanks for letting me know. The old machines are the best. It all worked out. I cant tell you how many messages I get where they tell me that my video doesn't have enough to help them. Of course I have many positive messages, and I'm sure I could have done better, but the video was an afterthought. If I've saved one person, it was worth it. Good job Erik. Thank you, Eric Freeman

[@Trainspotting944]

Really appreciate you posting this. I was going to bench test the motor windings when I remembered you said check the pump. Sure enough my son's sock was stuck in there. Pulled it out reassembled everything and washer works great. Thanks again.

[@damonmichaels6708]

I can't believe how many people write back with jammed up pumps. Good work. You saved the old machine. Feels good, doesn't it. Thanks, Eric

[@outerlimits7527]

I love your enthusiasm while explaining. I can empathize for sure!

[@gasman7558]

OLD School Teacher. I Love IT. You just got a new subscriber! Thank You !!!!

[@blue8ify]

THANK YOU!! You are so right.. this is a one of a kind video. I almost gave up until I saw your video. I had gone thru ALL the checks and replacements... except the capacitor and switch!!! Great stuff! I actually understood what the purposes are and learned what to do. Thanks again!!!

[@damonmichaels6708]

Thank you Blue8ify. The video was an afterthought of mine. But it seems to have paid off for quite a number of people. Good for you! Thanks, Eric

[@blue8ify]

@@damonmichaels6708 Totally worked!!!

[@wesleybrabant3595]

thanks to your video I fixed a Heavy Duty Kenmore washer that was going yo the junk yard till I went picked it up. your video is one of the best informative ones out there. thanks again. I'm happy with the old washer. it best the new front loader we have. exchanged the new washer for the old Kenmore.

[@damonmichaels6708]

Good work. You saved a great washer for another day. The new ones dont hold up over time. The video could have been better, but It was an afterthought. Score one for the men who fix things! Eric

[@FM-qh1hb]

FINALLY. The video we didn’t know we needed. Thank you Damon for making this. My washer was out of service for a month while I troubleshooted everything else. Finally I ordered a new switch and Bam! Finally starts the spin cycle again! Thanks so much for this one!

[@damonmichaels6708]

Wow! How cool to let me know. It's a good feeling to fix something and save some money. Thanks, Eric

[@Billy-rq9hs]

What if the wiring harness has a burn mark? Replace that also?

[@Santosty1]

Appreciative of your time making this video! Huge help

[@josephharpel8408]

I had troubleshot the motor, transmission, resetting the unit and was just about to call the repair man when I found your video. You mentioned checking the pump for obstructions, and lo and behold, I found one of my kids socks in the pump. Pulled it out with the needle nose and we're back in business. Didn't cost me a dime. Thanks for your post!

[@damonmichaels6708]

Joseph, that's great news.You did it yourself and saved the day. Sounds like you have a free dinner coming. Thanks, Eric

[@user-md6uq7sk7r]

This guy’s great. Very well explained, not boring at all. Keep making videos bro 👍

[@delta999999]

Thanks Eric! I was going crazy trying to figure out why the washer wouldn't agitate but would still spin. I took apart the motor switch after watching your video and found a couple contacts were burned up. I cleaned them, put back together, and the washer is agitating and spinning again! Thanks again!

[@geraldo727]

Appreciate this video Damon Michaels. I wound up pulling out an old newborn baby sock. This video gives me 80s tutorial video vibes. More substance than the fodder of today. Thanks again.

[@damonmichaels6708]

It's always those baby socks! Good work on your part. Take care, Eric

[@carpo719]

This is beautiful. Thanks so much. Ive replaced the capacitor... checked clutch, tranny, pump everything. Just a hum. I hope this helps!

[@Engineerboy100]

I think you did a good job on this video. I will do this job tomorrow and take the switch off and show what you are describing. You taught me how to repair this motor today, so I will make the video tomorrow ;)

[@damonmichaels6708]

Hi. KZbin has a video for you. :Kenmore washer motor problems". He is not that articulate, but he does go through the basics of motor problems. Worth watching. Thanks, Damon

[@alewis6451]

really good video to cover , when I was younger i traded mine for a used one +30.00. as years have gone by I appreciate the older mechanical motor you have as the only reason to toss it is if the bushing or bearing wears out. checked your video out to refresh my memory of items to check , Thanks

[@TimezUp23]

You are the MAN! I cleaned that switch and bada boom bada bing, my clothes are clean! Thank you sooo much!

[@robertblalock5009]

THANK YOU, honesty is gold. I faced this same stuff with tech. I refused a new motor and the tranny-pump was never mentioned. Pump was obstructed. Today the motor works fine on a bench tool. Thank you.

[@damonmichaels6708]

Super good news! These appliance techs are mostly thieves. They figure the owner doesn't know. Thank you, Eric

[@VictorMPR]

I like your style! Thank you for this video.

[@damonmichaels6708]

Thanks Victor. I wish I had the foresight to do the video as I was tearing her down. Better late than never. Eric

[@rockintonight]

This video is excellent, thanks for posting it!!! Had a scenario where the unit would hum and do like a thermal shut off. It came complete with some kind of burning smell. After setting up a bypass jumper for the safety shutoff in the lid, I checked the capacitor only visually and it looked good. Then I examined the motor switch and it looked clean after removing wire harness and re-installing. Then I followed the protocol here and found a pump that was jammed with a bra extender complete with hooks etc. It was a bear getting it out of the pump, using needle nosed pliers and some help from a lag bolt , hand screwing into the fabric and pulling out chunks of threaded garment, persistence paid off. Turned the pump mechanism with a large screwdriver to test it and then reinstalled! Voila everything works well now! I appreciate the video very much, as I may not have looked so carefully, since the motor was extremely hot and smelled cooked. Obviously, it was not, and this old machine lives on for a few more years!

[@damonmichaels6708]

I love it. What a story! Hard work wins every time. My only regret is that I made the video after fixing my problem. I love the older machines. No plastic crap. Good Job. Thanks, Eric

[@arymonem]

Excellent video Eric in explaining everything in such easy to understand manner! However I’ve a problem you might be able to help me with please. My top loader washer motor is Not directly attached to transmission or water pump. They are all separate units attached to each other by pulley system. I took everything apart, and noticed water pump pulley and transmission pulley do turn, but my motor pulley on the armature shaft is frozen, and doesn’t turn at all! So basically the motor is somehow frozen! Any idea if it’s fixable? Appreciate any help. Thanks

[@Cougdit]

Awesome video. Was a huge help!

[@damonmichaels6708]

Great news. Hope you get your machine back in action!

[@caddydaddyz3052]

Great video sir! Thanks

[@raffiaynaciyan2862]

Great video! For anyone that cares, I had a slow fail on my 12 year old direct drive Kenmore Washer over the last six months whereby the machine would always fill with water but would stop somewhere in the cycle. It got slowly worse and by messing with the timer switch I would be able to get it going again. I would move the timer around and try to reactivate the system. Usually you would hear a humming/buzzing noise which would stop after about 10-15 seconds. So the machine was trying to get to the next stage in the cycle but was failing. Like I said I was able to get the machine working by moving the timer around to different positions but finally it crapped out. The machine would just fill with water but soon after that the humming noise would start up. So looking up KZbin videos, my first hunch was to pull apart the timer switch. I took it apart and cleaned all the burnt contacts and some were real bad. This didn't make any difference. I checked the lid switch again from the advice of KZbinrs which is a common problem and again this did not make any difference. I took apart the pump and looked inside to see if something was stuck like a sock etc based on another video but again nothing. I took apart the switch with the connector board that is attached to the motor and again cleaned up the carbonized contacts as noted in this video. Again no difference. So it was down to a faulty motor or bad capacitor. I rotated the coupler between the motor and transmission with my fingers and it moved freely as per many videos. I also saw the transmission turn. There were no rubber particles or broken white pieces on the floor which might suggest a broken coupler.. I checked the capacitor with a multimeter as many KZbinrs have suggested and it tested normal. However some videos like this one noted that you need a capacitor tester to do it properly. The capacitor failed when testing it with a capacitor tester! As soon as I replaced it with a new one my washing machine is working perfectly. This whole thing came down to a $15 part. I was happy I cleaned out the timer switch and the motor control board cause that those could have become issues down the road. Best of luck to everyone out there but this is a fairly basic machine to work on and that's coming from a basic fixer upper guy.

[@damonmichaels6708]

Good information. Thank you Raffi. Eric

[@damonmichaels6708]

@butchtropic My thought at was the timer also. They can have dead spots where they dont function due to dirty contacts. It would be hard to imagine this new timer is bad. There must be an easy answer. Make a list of what it isnt. Then double check. Sherlock Holmes once said "Eliminate the possible, then eliminate the improbable". Scour KZbin for videos pertaining to your issue and give us more details. Eric

[@damonmichaels6708]

@butchtropic Hi. I wasnt even done reading your response and I thought you should buy a used timer. Many of these guys on ebay know that timers get dirty/ grungy contacts/ pitted/ carbon etc. All they do is take that contact section apart and clean up the contacts and call them refurbished. They can last for years. The telling point for me was that at other sections of the wash selection, it works fine. In that regular wash section, it is making poor contact. Understand that electricity is going through contact points and you can smell the bad connection metal smell. That timer most likely is bad, and the used one could be the answer. Your cap is good, the motor is good, the water pump run by the motor is good. You could have an intermitant lid switch problem to confuse things, and worth checking. I think you are on the right path. I do have an account at a very good appliance parts house. If you get stuck, I can help you if you need it. Eric If you can send back the timer you bought, do it. I think its no good.

[@damonmichaels6708]

@butchtropic If you have the original or the second one around, you could look for a youtube video on how to clean the contacts on your timer. Certainly, get a good timer, but you could open up the 25.00 one and take a look. Nothing to lose there. I will bet there is some dirty contacts causing the problem.

[@damonmichaels6708]

@butchtropic Okay. Good luck.

[@rajessefil2424]

thank you eric, God bless u

[@damonmichaels6708]

You are very welcome! Eric

[@NewLeaf1-zs4sy]

Interesting observation (unrelated to this topic proper), so I have a twenty plus year old Whirlpool washer, FANTASTIC, this make and model are the EPITOME OF HOW A WASHER SHOULD BE MADE (lsb6200kq1) so much so I learned to repair the damn thing, essentially I have a rebuilt washer including redoing the transmission, k so now I'm replacing the Agitator assembly, what's interesting is HOW MANY AGITATOR'S HAVE BEEN SOLD, around 546 from this one Ebay seller, my point? I thought it was only me clued into the superiority of old washing machines, NOPE, seems everyone (a lot) of people are doing the exact same thing and just rebuilding the old ones! :)

[@kurticusmaximus]

Your diagnosis was correct for my whirlpool washer. Thank you! It wasn't the coupler, wasn't the clutch, wasn't the capacitor, and yours is the only video that talks about cleaning the switch! Thanks a bunch!

[@damonmichaels6708]

Hey Kurt. That is good news! You saved some money, fixed it yourself, and now you know every part of that machine. Good job. Eric

[@whoiskand]

Oldschool is on it I love the details

[@DigitalMediaCanada]

Thank you for this explanation. I checked the contacts and sure enough, signs of arcing. Used 400 grit sandpaper and cleaned up the contacts and now ... no more hum!

[@damonmichaels6708]

Hi. Good work! Your machine is up and working, and it didn't cost a penny. I love it. Eric

[@marcelfortin7035]

you sir are awesome thanks !

[@nickburgagni3303]

Great video!! Thanks! I love the part when you go "bullshit!! It's the frikken switch!! "

[@damonmichaels6708]

Yeah. I kind of lost it. I have to watch my mouth.I was just fed up with the lack of proper videos out there. Thanks, Eric

[@williamchaves8938]

Well done vid !

[@thejesusfreak7311]

Great video! Thx.

[@zazarays]

idk where the capacitor was on this Whirlpool but it had the exact same motor as my old Roper with a broken agitator so I just swapped motors and it is going fine. I thought at first it was the transmission in the whirlpool from rust and being in storage. Thx a bunch

[@johna259]

Awesome thanks buddy 🤘

[@rubenmartinez4373]

Thanks for the tutorial turned out to be jammed water pump had a sock stuck in it 20 minute fix $0.00

[@damonmichaels6708]

Good Job! I love it. The no money fix! Take care, Eric

[@livingstone1974]

when checking the pump do i judt pull the clips down with an empty tub and check the one hose pump connected to that tub piece? my noise comes on and turns off after 10 seconds or so? can hear it click. i replaced the switch, clutch and couplers are good. when i checked the clutch it would turn clockwise and then eventually stops turning like it gets caught or something.

[@erniray1]

I put it into spin, starts and when it gets up to full speed it starts making a clicking sound, like its breaking the connection. I have like 3 washers out in my back yard, all do this. It's been cold and wet at times, and I was using a long extension cord. What would likely be causing this clicking?

[@kirklake3276]

Great video, do all washer motors have a capacitor? Mine has the motor switch but no capacitor could it be in another location. 20 year old Maytag top load.

[@FINNIUSORION]

This might be my issue. I'm refusing to let this washer die. I've spent too much time working on it now. And the capacitor is fine... I'm going to have to check this.

[@BlackDoggies]

Hey Damon - I replied to one of your comments on another video--- Here is my question - the part of the centrifugal switch with the springs you can see and put your finger on - that is attached to the shaft - when the motor is shut off, but say if you spin the shaft with your fingers, is that part of the centrifugal switch supposed to be rigidly attached to the shaft and spin with it? I assume so... but mine doesn't. I think it may be stripped. Thoughts? Is the motor therefore toast?

[@MrTvt9797]

Great information. Thanks. I haven't open my I think 15 year old Maytag Atlantis washer yet, but do you think my motor is like yours?

[@damonmichaels6708]

Hard to say, Art. But the information should be transferable to similar setups. Let me know if I can help. My video was an afterthought. It could have been better. Eric

[@JOEZEP54]

.👍 # 714 Wish I found this video sooner. It did not answer the problem I now have but confirmed a lot of what I found out along the way. The issue I now have is this Kenmore Model 110.24922200 90 Series washer. After completing one load of wash I started a second. The tub filled with water, agitated then stopped. No matter what setting I put it in nothing happens other then the water will fill. No humming, nothing. I did check the lid switch, it is good, I even jumped it to make sure. I also replaced the timer. I tried tracing the wires but got lost. Any help would be appreciated. Stay well, Joe Z

[@damonmichaels6708]

The timer has metal contacts inside that need to connect. You replaced the timer, which is usually the issue. Do you have a washer switch on the motor like my motor in the video. These have contacts too. If they are dirty, you will be dead in the water. Also, does it freeze up when it is used for a long time, such as a second load? You may have some sort of overheat/thermal switch cutting off. Some newer models have switches like this. Mine doesnt. I am not a tech, but I do know that timers, washer switches, capacitors, are usually the culprit. There may be a switch cutting off. I have had a few people let me know they have a thermal type switch. If you have a washer switch like mine, (Red switch) clean the contacts and put it back in. Check for videos. You can do it. Eric

[@JOEZEP54]

Hi Eric thank you for the quick reply. This is an older washer 10--15 years. The motor looks like yours. I will give your suggestion a try. I have another Kenmore series 90 washer given to me but the timer control has a different Serial # That one would do everything but spin. I opened the top & found a disconnected wire, I connected it & everything worked, went full cycle. Here's the rub, I put a small load of clothes in. It would fill but nothing else, oh but it would now spin LOL. This washer is outside & easy for me to work on. I saw another video that had an issue with the switch you mentioned. On that one it just worked loose. I checked it out but still nothing. To remove it I had to cut/destroy the water pump it was rusted on solid, The only thing I saw that may have been an issue was the lever that goes to the clutch looked a little worn. I did not know the length or shape it should be. But it gave me an idea of how it works. I will let you know what I find out tomorrow. Thanks again. Joe

[@asiba2]

@Damon Michaels . My motor hums and does not start the cycle BUT if I move the coupler with my fingers it starts and runs well. It means that I have to manually move the coupler/ motor to start each cycle. I want to spray lubricant all over it

[@damonmichaels6708]

I think your problem is a weak capacitor. That is the first place to look. It is important to understand how they function. Also, it is worth looking at your motor switch and or your motor could be faulty. Your cap is probably near dead. My video spelled it out. Check your cap with the proper tester or wing it and buy a new one. They do fail. Let me know I was right. Eric Freeman- The garbage man

[@asiba2]

@@damonmichaels6708 -Thank you very much . I did change the capacitor so I will clean the switch. I was telling myself only 3 days ago when I thought about it that it might be s switch problem because I can hear switching going on when the cycle finishes, and when it goes to the next cycle - you hear like 2 -3 different clicks also when the water flows into the washer but when it comes to the motor I had to help it so I had concluded that it might be a switch. I am eager to clean that switch and get back to you to confirm that you were right. I would be happy to do so

[@damonmichaels6708]

@@asiba2 I dont think you can hear the motor switch during or at the end of a cycle. The switch is relatively quiet. Pulling out the switch is easy. Once out, slide the red cover off and inspect the contacts. the lever engages one set and another depending on where the lever is. Your motor needs phase one and phase two to ramp up to full speed. A bad switch will hinder that. You timer works on a similar principal, engaging metal contacts and during a cycle. Clean the switch before buying a new one. I was joking about being right. I was guessing with the limited information. Eric

[@asiba2]

@@damonmichaels6708 Thank you so very much . I appreciate your attention to the situation . Thanks . I am going to clean the switch

[@w8what575]

Well…lol…the machine I got was a very used slapped together with several different washers as parts and then sold to me for $50 over a year ago…it stopped working after it was off balanced really badly all the sudden…took the dial out and opened it up…parts go flying !! Someone has tried to repair it at one point so after I figure out how to get it put back together correctly…lol…I’ll have to check the contacts on the motor as well…the switch contacts were black …got it to finally fill but nothing else….but I got something messed up inside the switch cuz I don’t need to push the knob in or out to get it to start filling lol…..what a mess! But still better than this new garbage they sell…

[@pagevpetty]

Thanks for the vid, what if one of the wires on top of the motor is shorting? The washer won't drain and stops after a few seconds on some speeds. I couldn't find any obstructions and the pump turns fine. I replaced the gear case & motor coupler, but it is still doing the same thing. And then I noticed one of the wires on top of the motor is black and melted at the connection. Can I just replace the wire connection or is something else causing the motor to overheat? The brakes and clutch look ok to me. The burnt wire is on top of the motor connected to a little black box inside the corner that has another white wire connected to the other side. It is not on the centrifugal clutch switch plug thing.

[@damonmichaels6708]

Hi. You pose some good questions Is your timer going out. Inside the timer is metal contacts that touch at the various cycle selections. If the internal contacts are dirty, it would cause it not to complete it's cycle. Timers wear out. How old is it? But you brought up the melted wire. First determine if the wire is viable. Did it melt a little bit? Or is that part of the wire have no continuity. I imagine that wire carries load. What would cause it to start to melt. The timer? the motor switch? I am dubious that the motor is shorting out. Can you pull the washer motor switch and look inside to make sure the contacts are clean and are viable. When that switch is out, you can press the lever( with the red cardboard window removed) and see how the contacts engage and separate. I need more information. I am not an appliance tech. Washer timers usually give you your sort of problem. An expensive fix. If I went that way, perhaps you could find a good used one. The partially melted wire concerns me. What is the cause? Is there a video out there to look at? Sometimes people overthink the problem. I am guilty of that as well. Is it the Timer- the motor switch- the Capacitor. Finding more videos may help you. Let me know! Eric

[@Manaviecreations]

thank you, really enjoy your video 😊

[@TastyChevelle]

Thanks for this video. I have a related question. I overloaded my washer with too many clothes. I heard the drum banging around during the spin cycle, it got quiet , then I saw the lights flicker in my house like a power surge or something. I go downstairs and there's a bad electronic burning smell. I get them hum like you said when I set it to the spin cycle. However, the smell seems to be coming from the control panel where the knobs are. Any idea what that might be? Its a Whirlpool top load direct drive unit.

[@damonmichaels6708]

In the video, I should have also mentioned the timer. That would be on the headboard, and you set the type of wash you want with it. The clicking sound you hear while setting the cycle on the timer is literally a bunch of metal contacts like fingers touching contact points that allow electrical connections to be made. Timers can short out, or quit making proper connection etc. Much like the motor switch, only more complicated. This may be your timer box. People sell refurbished ones on ebay. New ones are preferred, but more expensive. Find a video on timer removal and find out your serial number. Look around and find one, as long as you are sure it is the timer. Try and set the timer in another location, say on permanent press or light wash and fire it up. A different location on the dial and it may work. This will help deduce that the timer is bad. Eric Freeman

[@TastyChevelle]

@@damonmichaels6708 So I did like you said and tried it in a different position. On the cycle 180 degrees from the one it was on, it still hums but it is a brand new sounding hum, like the motor wants to start moving but can't. The first hum was quieter and didn't seem like anything was going to move, although it still created a smell when I did. I tried to move the drum as the loud hum was going but no dice. Do you think the motor is shot?

[@damonmichaels6708]

@@TastyChevelle Have you checked the things I spoke of in the video. This most likely can be one of six things. Timer, Capacitor. Obstruction in the water pump, Tranny issues and possibly the motor and the motor switch. Move the washer where you can work on it. Unplug the machine, until you need to plug it in. Find a video and take the outside metal cover off of the frame of the washer. (Not Hard) Most likely your timer or capacitor or an obstruction in the water pump. (Common). Do not keep running the machine. Dont hurt the motor further. You can do this! Look at videos similar to your model. Your only recourse is to buy another washer. Fix the fucker. You only have money to lose. Eric

[@1yellowfinn298]

Damon I have the same motor i wanted to use it for a drum sander is there a way to run the motor without a capacitor?

[@whoiskand]

How can I tell if the transmission is locked up or the basket drive shaft is stuck

[@rickeykeeton71]

The first set you checked was 1 and 7. What set did you check with centrifugal clutch pushed in?

[@damonmichaels6708]

Pull the washer switch and take out the red cardboard and play with it. You will figure it out and then diagram the terminals in question. I cannot remember. It was a year ago. It is not hard. You can test it on the bench much easier. Eric

[@rickeykeeton4770]

@@damonmichaels6708 I think it might be what I was calling number 7 and the first white wire I have taken several of these apart I just thought that particular motor might be a little different in regards to which contact does what. These switch terminals are not numbered consecutively, so I may have called off the wrong numbers May be 4 and 5, I wish I knew a source for replacing the contacts inside these switches and the mechanical timers Same ones seem to go bad on just about all of them. Seems like I did find a source for what looks like the carbon tips, or whatever they are, but not sure how to remove the old ones and reattach the new ones.. Timers do get rebuilt, so there someone is getting the contacts somewhere. A and B on the mechanical timers are know to get pitted or burned , if I am not mistaken I may have dryer timers in mind

[@rudisadler6750]

Damon what is the microfarette on that motor

[@AJ-gz6qd]

Before messing with the capacitor on the washer wall, do I need to discharge it

[@damonmichaels6708]

Cross the terminals with a screwdriver. Eric

[@victornaja7927]

Hi my motor has like a bearing wining sound n the switch started smoking lightly and before that the motor was very hot like 120f

[@rpfl5586]

Motor works but gets very hot to the touch. Then the internal breaker goes and wont run for a while. Can smell it burning. Machine agitates and spins fine. Ive had the machine tor completely apart. Very frustrated. Also I noticed that centrifugal clutch switch inside the motor with the 2 springs on it that opens with centrifugal force to activate the switch free spins on the shaft when I put one of my fingers in the slot i can spin it , free spins without the motor spinning. Shouldnt that have to be locked on the shaft?

[@DKoppJr]

Does this motor also have carbon brushes that can wear down?

[@tylervillella5159]

I found your video and followed what you had recommended. I cleaned the switch replaced the capacitor i even took the top control panel off and tapped the timer and I still can’t get my kenmore stackable combo to cycle after wash. Does anybody have and solutions?

[@damonmichaels6708]

Tyler, this may be a problem with the timer. The timer has contacts like the motor switch does. Many of them, all the way around. Can you try a different area of the timer selections, like permanent press setting .If the motor switch is good, and you have a new capacitor, the timer should be suspect. An expensive item. People do renew them and sell them on Ebay. Contact an appliance tech and pass your problem by him. It may be helpful. Eric

[@StuartNC]

Anybody know if it is normal for this motor to buzz when using the lower speeds such as delicates? It works fine but I don’t recall if it always buzzed. 26 years old. Same motor in the video.

[@jludtxs]

I took off the capacitor without marking the wires. I got a new capacitor. Washer- One wire is red and 2 white wires is the other. which wire goes where on the capacitor?

[@damonmichaels6708]

Please look for markings of positive and negative. Do some research on this issue. It may not matter. Always mark your wires. Also, There may only be one way the wires fit. Some of the male ends on the cap are different sizes.

[@trixy7736]

The only reason I wanted to no cus I just took one out of old washer machine and pit it in my dertbike temporarily because my motor just blew out of my dirt bike and the motor that I got out of my washing machine is 105 volts ...thanks ....😊

[@sindee1968]

You have just the right just don’t right amount of cussing in this video. I freaking love it hahahahahaaha

[@damonmichaels6708]

Thank you. I was in a slightly bad mood that day. I could not find a single video to address my problem. Take care -Eric

[@TayH927]

I bought a new capacitor and cleaned the contacts and still as soon as I plug in the machine it buzzes for a few seconds then nothing for a few minutes then it tries again. The switch initially had some black on it and I think it might have burnt but after testing with a multimeter after cleaning there is continuity when the contacts touch. I'm stumped and have been without a washer for a while now. Your video is the only one I've found in weeks that mentions anything about the switch but I'm still stuck. :-(

[@damonmichaels6708]

Hi. There are a few things you havent mentioned. Did you check to see if your water pump is jammed. Did you check for motor rotation to see if the shaft of the motor moves freely. if you can, pull off the water pump and pull the motor out while keeping it connected. (wiring) Plug the washer back in and engage the switch to turn it on. If you hear the hum, see if the motor shaft is rotating. Assist it in turning by spinning the shaft with your fingers. If it will not turn at all while humming, and the capacitor is good, (the cap is what gives the motor the power to boot up in both phases) turn it off and there might be another area to look into. This is also a possibility and it happen to me after everything I fixed. Your small, medium and large load switch at the panel could be malfunctioning. this switch works by water rising in a rubber tube causing pressure to the back of the switch. (water level pressure switch- Make sure you have water in your washer to activate the pressure switch) The tube from the back of the switch is attached to the base of the drum/ water tank on the outside of the plastic drum. When you put water in your washer, the water fills the rubber hose and creates slight pressure and activates the switch. this in turn will activate your wash cycle. (A low amount of water in the hose will be a small load, a medium level will be a higher level and so on). It you are checking if your motor works after you put the capacitor in, check it in the spin cycle only. The other cycles will need water in the washer for it to work at all. To see if you pressure switch is functioning correctly, and it is all put together and turned on, blow into the rubber hose to create pressure to the switch. Or fill it with water and see if it works that way. Check the motor for obstruction, jammed up etc. Check motor to see if it works in spin cycle only.(agitation and other cycles need water in the drum to let the motor work) If the motor works in spin cycle, you've most likely fixed it.

[@TayH927]

@@damonmichaels6708 sorry I left all that out. I've checked the pressure valve by blowing into it (I got that from another video) everything was good. The water pump was one of the first things I checked before I took everything apart. It's fine too. I've also checked the brake shoes to make sure they werent stuck. When the washer is all assembled except for the cabinet and water pump I can turn the shaft one direction but the other direction locks once it hits a certain point. I believe that is the little arm inside the brake area that's supposed to lock when it agitates. I still wonder if theres something wrong with my switch once its installed. I think the little white arm is being pushed once its installed and always closing the connection. Theres no way for me to see what the contacts are doing inside once its installed though. Like you pointed out, those switches arent cheap so i dont wanna get one if it ends up being fine. Right now there is a small amount of water in the tub from messing with it. Probably what would be a small load. If i up the load size it will add more water. Once the water stops and it's time to spin that is when the buzz happens or if i leave it on the same size and plug it up it will immediately buzz. One of the other things I've done when i first started tinkering with it was bypassing the lid switch so that's done also

[@TayH927]

@@damonmichaels6708 I havnt tried to manually spin the shaft while it buzzes. I will try that shortly.

[@damonmichaels6708]

@@TayH927 Two things: I know you have a new capacitor, But please separate the motor from the tranny and pump, engage the spin cycle and start the washer. If the motor spins- great. If you manually spin the shaft to get it going and it spins slowly, (because the motor is not getting enough power) check the capacitor again. if you have done everything to make the motor run, (Capacitor and motor switch) and it still wont run in spin cycle, it could be the motor itself. Do not be concerned that the tranny stops rotating. You are right, The brake shoe spring assembly is a stopping point. Secondly, if you get to this point and the motor runs, but will not engage in agitation cycle, it may not run because of the pressure switch. Fill more water into the washer. although the pressure switch hose fills with water, sometimes it does not activate the switch. Undo the hose from the back of the pressure switch and blow into the hose and kink the hose to trap the pressure and while still kinking the hose, attach it back onto the pressure switch. The additional pressure can sometimes click the switch on. Especially when it has be worked on. Taylor, motors do go out. If your cap is good, switch is good, and your getting voltage to the motor/Cap and the motor is still dead. Consider the motor suspect as well. You could buy a used one on Ebay if you had to. Good luck. I know it's a bitch. Let me know, Eric Freeman

[@damonmichaels6708]

I had a thought. If you are considering the motor is bad, and you are not quite sure, if you have a used appliance store near you, you could have the motor bench tested just to make sure it is the culprit. Eric

[@TheBrandonKia]

Hi sir, I have maytag washer it fill water and it humming smell burn not agitate but it rinse spin. Water pump spin cupler spin i don't know what thanks

[@damonmichaels6708]

Please look at the timer. Check other videos for consensus. Your motor and capacitor seem to be working. Contacts inside of timers get worn and dirty. Mosty dirty and not making a good connection. It is worth gently taking it apart if you suspect the timer. Buy a new or good one or fix/clean yours. Eric Freeman

[@lumurumba]

Need more specifics on checking continuity

[@erniray1]

In spin starts briskly, but when it reaches top speed it clicks (like losing connection) then continues building speed back. As soon as it reaches top speed clicks again, loses connection, then continues building to top speed. This goes on, over and over, for the entire spin cycle. Any ideas out there?

[@rickjames6948]

Mine is doing the same an dimming the lights in the ceiling when it clicks. Looking for a known fix too.

[@jesgalde]

@@rickjames6948 did you find a solution for this?

[@rickjames6948]

@@jesgalde No, we bought a new machine. Sorry I couldn't help you.

[@jesgalde]

@@rickjames6948 thank you!

[@howardhall9594]

Hi I have been watching your videos and believe you can help me. I have a washing machine motor part # 3951550 but unsure of the leads. Can y be u please identify them for me. Which should connect to my 3 wire electrical plug and how do I connect them to the capacitor. Want to use motor for a diy sander. Thanks

[@howardhall9594]

Sorry the part # is 3951551

[@1rewd133]

What if the centrifugal clutch keeps slapping back and forth as the motor runs during wash cycle?

[@damonmichaels6708]

Find a video on how to remove the motor, trans etc. that tells you about the clutch. The clutch shoe assembly is either out of place or broken. Get a new clutch assembly. You can do this. The clutch is held in place by a spring that may have gone bad or has weakened. Good luck. Let me know. Eric

[@Billy-rq9hs]

What if the wiring harness has a burn mark?

[@farmasyst]

My MAytag washer had a frozen/corroded pulley bearing. I can get the drum to spin, but the motor just hums when I put the switch into agitate phase. What would be the best thing to check? The rotor spins freely when the unit is shut off

[@damonmichaels6708]

Hi. You didnt give me enough info. Check your capacitor. Timer might be at fault as well. I would also say check your lid switch, but the motor is humming. If no obstruction is found, and the motor/tranny can rotate, check the capacitor. Thats where the motor gets its power. Timer could have some corrosion. Be laser beam specific next time. Im not a tech. Eric

[@farmasyst]

@@damonmichaels6708 The motor rotates the drum on the spin cycle, but just hums during agitation. When I unplug the machine, I can spin the motor rotor freely in both directions.If the capacitor was shot, would the motor be able to start up on the spin cycle?Thanks for replying.

[@damonmichaels6708]

@@farmasyst DOUG. IT COULD BE THAT YOUR TIMER has contact corrosion at that place where the agitation starts. Try a different cycle on the dial. Like permanent press etc. The timer may not be transmitting the electrical connection at that point. Try anywhere else on the dial many times. If it works on other parts of the cycle, suspect the timer. Let me know. Eric

[@damonmichaels6708]

Also, if you have a motor switch (in my video) you may want to clean the contacts and renew that switch as well. . Eric

[@douglaswilke8582]

@@damonmichaels6708 Thanks.On this motor, 2 blue leads are connected to a small plastic wafer-like box just inside the casing. Would this be a switch to reverse motor direction? Could that be the problem, seeing that the motor spins immediately in one direction (spin cycle) and is stationary (agitate cycle) in the other?

[@bobsoft]

My GE KH61KW2516GS motor hums. Transmission is not licked up I just rebuilt it. I noticed every video talks about the capacitor and they are strapped to the machine. My machine does not have a capacitor. At least one that is visible. Is it located inside the motor?

[@damonmichaels6708]

You have a capacitor. look above the motor between the timer control panel and the motor. strapped on the inside of the back panel. YOUR PROBLEM IS one of these things. Timer: capacitor: Jammed water pump: motor switch. My video will direct you. You can do this!

[@bobsoft]

@@damonmichaels6708 Thanks for the reply. I have had this machine completely apart. Tub out, back panel off, everything disconnected to get the transmission , drum and motor out to replace a bearing in the transmission. When the cabinet was empty I did not see a capacitor attached to the cabinet or on the motor. I followed the wiring harness for the motor. I have tested the door switch, the water pump is working (it pumps out water). I had the control panel off and the motor apart. The parts diagram for this machine also do not list a capacitor for this machine (GE GJXR2080W0WW) I did find a problem in the timer/selector dial. One of the points contact is fried.

[@damonmichaels6708]

Hi if your machine does not have a capacitor perhaps it is built in the motor I'm not sure I'm no expert but you might want to find your model on KZbin or approximate and get as close to your model as possible and search that way as well good luck sometimes it's the timer or capacitor or your jammed up water pump or that washer switch the motor switch in the front of the motor those go bad too they have like points in them and they get nasty too good luck

[@bobsoft]

@@damonmichaels6708 I took the timer apart and found a couple of contacts burnt, especially one was very charred. I had a look inside the motor and cleaned up the two contacts, there was a silver rectangular component beside the contacts (thermal fuse)

[@Trestleboard]

​@damonmichaels6708 I have the Whirlpool LSN2000JQ1 that's doing the same thing. I don't see any capacitor. I was able to order a replacement motor but did the same thing, so I returned it. Any idea what the pinout voltages should be? The wiring diagram doesn't show any voltages.

[@rickjames6948]

Mine is doing the same and dimming the lights in the ceiling when it clicks. Looking for a known fix too. My motor clicks in agitate and spin, both motor directions of rotation. There is some black carbon tracking on the red motor switch cover. I've tested my capacitor, motor and witch, all good per Fluke multi-meter. Motor still clicks and clicks and clicks...... Found a website that has the Ohms testing info for the motor and motor switch. Again all tested good. What next?

[@damonmichaels6708]

Before replacing your motor switch, perhaps you should take it out, clean the contacts. Dirty points inside that switch will do you in. You need to check your capacitor with a capacitance tester and see if it comes within spec. Is the motor bound up- is the cap good- is the motor switch bad or going bad. Is your timer failing? You can get this. Eric

[@rickjames6948]

@@damonmichaels6708 New FSP timer maybe 1 year ago. Motor cap is rated at 270uf to 324uf, TESTED at 296uf right in the middle of spec. Motor switch points cleaned tonight, no luck Motor windings test ok BUT the start winding is dead on 5 ohms which is the bottom of spec. Still in spec but at the low end. Pump has nothing inside, turns easy. Put new neutral drain kit maybe a year ago and fresh oil in tranny. Motor cap tested with a Fluke mm with capacitance test = passed. Everything looks good on paper. Motor clicks and clicks and clicks...... Centrifugal motor switch moving in and out, in and out, in and out........ Click click click....... Got to be a bad motor. I checked all 3 or 4 windings per my wiring schematic under the control panel. All in spec.

[@damonmichaels6708]

@@rickjames6948 There is a youtube video out there in which you can test your motor by main lining it. (hotwiring). You now know how your motor switch works. You should check for continuity on the top terminals of the switch. Take the switch out and study it inside. write down the positions in phase 1 and 2 for continuity and make sure it is functional. If everything is good as you say, suspect the motor . I'm no tech, but it's a process of elimination. Check the possible, then check the impossible. Your smart. I know how you feel. Can you get your hands on a good used motor?

[@ChristianTejada]

Any luck on fixing this issue? I’m having a similar problem with the motor switch engaging and disengaging. Checking if the timer is the issue..

[@Jack51971]

How freely should the water pump spin?

[@damonmichaels6708]

Unclip the water pump from the motor and put a large bladed screwdriver into the receiving slot and it should turn freely with some slight resistance. It it is hard to turn or doesn't turn at all, it is probably obstructed with something foreign (small sock?) etc. Also check the motor at that time for a freely spinning armature. Eric

[@paulegan2252]

Question please. I have this exact motor in my Kenmore washer. I think the bearings are bad given the rattle sound. Can they be changed?

[@damonmichaels6708]

Hi. It may not be your motor at all. The motor is sealed. It is built like a tank. Separate the motor from the washer pump and remove it. spin the armature and check for play in the shaft. I suspect nothing is wrong with the bearings. Bearings dont rattle, they howl. Your clutch assembly could have come loose. That would cause a rattle. Break it down and inspect the various parts. Washer pump, clutch etc. Look at videos. You can do this. Look at my video again and it will help you understand the tranny hooks up on the back of the armature and the washer pump on the front. Give me more info. Does the washer operate? What is going on. It is not hard Good luck.

[@paulegan2252]

@@damonmichaels6708 Thank you so much for the reply and comments! I already had the transmission open and all seemed good - turned it through agitate and spin cycles,, change oil and resealed. I took the motor all the way out and ran it w/o connection to anything, and still had loud "rattle" sound. The shaft has a very small amount of play, seems nl to me. The shaft did feel hot to me...made me further think bearings? It seems to operate nl (spins and agitation, with no water or clothes). Just a loud clacking from motor like if you put a quarter in a hard plastic ball and shook it. Any thoughts appreciated?

[@damonmichaels6708]

@@paulegan2252 Hi Most folks would throw in the towel and pony up for a new machine. Clearly, something is loose in that motor. Check eBay for a good used motor, or a compatable used washer with other problems you can get cheaply. Be Another motor would save time and money. Is there a used appliance shop anywhere near you? Call them and stop by with the motor. My motor was sealed. - welded. Time for a new motor? Let me know. Eric

[@paulegan2252]

@@damonmichaels6708 Thanks! You're right, most would have went washer shopping and their old washer would end up in a landfill or scrap metal..when there is plenty of life left in her. Im not giving up. I have new shaft seals, tub gasket, scrubber pads, lubricated, new trani oil, new shaft bearings, and all cleaned-up. The motor should be the last step. I'll check out your suggestions. I have a post out there on Nextdoor app to see if anyone has a broken Kenmore or Whirlpool washer for parts. Trying to avoid a new OEM motor for $180, but may end up there - which still would be very worthwhile. Paul

[@damonmichaels6708]

Paul, check Ebay. Put in the motor number that is found on the body and the maker. Like Kenmore 80s series washer motor and the part number. It might be a good buy. Eric @@paulegan2252

[@burtonkong7182]

My washing machine fills with water but just hums, without agitating or spinning. I removed the motor. I notice the shaft will not spin. Is the shaft supposed to spin?

[@damonmichaels6708]

Burton, if you have the motor out and it is not attached to the tranny or the water pump and the shaft (Armature) is not moving freely, then there is an internal motor problem. I do not know why it is jammed or has frozen up. These aluminum cases are generally welded together and you cant tear them down. It sounds like you need a new motor. But on a billion to one thought, unscrew the front washer switch (phillips screw- Look at my video) Maybe the arm on the switch broke off and it is jamming up the armature, causing it not to spin. Worth looking at as a last ditch chance. You can find used motors on Ebay. Make sure that they test the motor you are looking at.Write me and be laser specific on what you have there. Eric

[@burtonkong7182]

@@damonmichaels6708 Hi Eric, I appreciate your reply. I took out the motor this past Friday. I was able to turn the motor coupler plastic piece attached to the transmission and it spun freely. I watched your excellent video and tested the wires on the motor starter switch for continuity. They all were good. I also removed this switch to test it for continuity and it was good. The plastic leg was okay. I tried to spin the motor shaft but it was hard to turn in either direction. I needed the motor coupler plastic piece to turn the shaft, turning just an eight of a turn before coming to a halt. I read the motor bearings could have seized, making me need another motor. But, I found a video that suggested to spray WD-40 on the shaft.I sprayed the shaft on both sides (transmission and water pump). Voila! The motor shaft now easily spins freely and smoothly. Amazing what a little lubricant can do. I have a new capacitor coming this week. I will re-install and let you know if the washer works. Thanks!

[@damonmichaels6708]

@@burtonkong7182 Okay.If the bearings are dry enough to cause it to seize, Wd 40 would only last a short while before you have the same problem. These bearings in the motors are usually sealed. These may not be. Losing grease in these bearings is possible, but not always likely. Did the motor sit for any length of time.Did water get into the motor in any way from a bad drum seal? An old trick we use to do to renew dried up grease in bearings is to get some motor oil into the bearings. Not easy to do on this motor, but you might want to flip the motor up so the shaft is vertical and put some oil at the base of the shaft where it meets the housing. work some oil in while rotating the shaft from the other side. You can renew the grease that way. This is an odd one. Why was the shaft impinged? Water/ sat idle for years. Im glad you broke it free. I hope it holds up for you. Eric

[@burtonkong7182]

@@damonmichaels6708 The motor came from my mom's 20 year-old Kenmore Elite top-loading washer. It was used at least twice a week so the motor was pretty active. It is possible water got on the water pump side of the shaft as there are small rust spots near the shaft. This is probably the first time the motor was removed and inspected in two decades. (As of last week, washer just filled with water and then stops while there's a humming sound most likely coming from the motor.) I will add some motor oil to both sides of the shaft. I hope the shaft does not seize again. Thanks again.

[@damonmichaels6708]

@@burtonkong7182 Hi. just found a video that may help you. Depending on the type of motor you have. "Motor hums/buzzes but wont run. Fix it" by debwhiteheartpinoy. Go there and maybe it will help you. My motor is a sealed one. Eric

[@kredfish00]

I think this is the issue with my washer. 11020932994 .....it will not agitate, spin or pump. I changed out the bushing between the motor and the direct drive since it was an inexpensive part but it still hums and no motion. After a while the hum, which is very light, cuts out. I did not look at the capacitor when I had the motor off but I will take apart again and closely inspect. I imagine I should clean the contacts in the switch as you recommend, Eric.....any other thoughts?

[@kredfish00]

Damon......I found the capacitor 8572717 mounted to a plastic bracket attached to the back panel. When I was trying to unplug the connections, one pulled out of the capacitor and oil started to leak out. I ordered a replacement.....but other than that, I am stumped at what it could be. Like I said, it hums very low but won't agitate, won't pump, won't spin. I tapped the plastic pieces to the rubber bushing between the motor and the drive just so it wouldn't bind so much. The motor moves easily now and engages the drive if I turn it with a pair of pliers. I did clean the points/contacts inside of the switch on the motor as you recommended. They were not terribly dirty but the bottom contact showed signed of burn. Waiting for the replacement capacitor at this point. Any thoughts on checking anything else? Your video was most helpful!

[@damonmichaels6708]

Get a new capacitor. This is most likely your problem. The capacitor is what gives electrical charge to the motor. The humming is a good sign. It doesn't have the juice to spin. Eric Freeman

[@damonmichaels6708]

Kred. Listen again to my video. Everything is there for you to diagnose your problem. I may ramble here and there, but the info is solid. Eric - It's probably your capacitor.

[@damonmichaels6708]

Hey Kred, did you get your washer working? Eric

[@kredfish00]

@@damonmichaels6708 yes I did! It was the capacitor just as predicted.

[@bivfortuna]

Fucking A The Garbage day guy! Red cover good point!

[@tango1520]

What about electromotor overheating?

[@damonmichaels6708]

Can you be more specific.? Sure the motor could be shot. But why would you not eliminate the most common issues? Good Luck!

[@erniray1]

When I put it in spin the motor starts slowly and when it reaches top speed it clicks (like losing connection, then picks up speed to top speed, clicks again. This will continue over and over.

[@rickjames6948]

Mine is doing the same an dimming the lights in the ceiling when it clicks. Looking for a known fix too.

[@theoracle6005]

Nice video but there alot of good appliance techs out there.

[@damonmichaels6708]

I agree. Do you know any of them in California?

[@whoiskand]

I can not turn my agitator in the tub clockwise

[@matthupp5541]

How do you put belt on

[@damonmichaels6708]

Matt, there is no belt on this system. It is direct drive.

[@matthupp5541]

It's a older Kenmore washer don't know how old

[@toresmoore2024]

Why do my whilpool wash make noise when it spin for a minute

[@fermandorobles7151]

What about when your motor gets hot I know I I'd something wrong because that problem was it an issue??

[@dragonfly788]

There's a little device on the motor, looks like a fuse, connects to a wire, what is the name of it?

[@damonmichaels6708]

Capacitor? Is it black and the size of a c cell battery

[@dragonfly788]

@@damonmichaels6708 yes it is black about 1 inch square, clips on to the motor

[@veritaslibertas7265]

The device is the thermal overload switch. If the motor windings get hot from being overloaded, the switch opens and the motor stops.

[@dragonfly788]

@@veritaslibertas7265 OK, thanks for your help

[@damonmichaels6708]

This guy veritas thinks its a thermal overload switch. Always be laser beam specific when describing parts or take a picture. I am not a tech. My video was to give people the basics of my model. I imagine the thermal switch is rarely needed unless the operator is beating the hell out of his machine with maximum capacity cycles putting strain on the motor. You never described you're problem. Think on a more simple level. Washer switch, capacitor, timer, etc.

[@rpfl5586]

Spins fine clockwise. Counter clockwise spins a turn then trys to turn drum and its very hard to turn. Motor hums

[@damonmichaels6708]

The clutch assembly stops the rotation when you spin by hand. Perfectly normal. Check the capacitor first. this provides the juice for the motor. Eric

[@rpfl5586]

@@damonmichaels6708 Thanks so much. This motor doesnt have a capacitor though? Is it internal? Thanks again.

[@damonmichaels6708]

@@rpfl5586 If the cap is not located on the top of the motor, it should be somewhere in the wiring harness before the motor. Should be bolted to the case somewhere. Find a video that applies. Eric

[@timetryp422]

@@damonmichaels6708 I have a capacitor bolted on the side of the motor. My designation marks fell off the wire leads, so I don't know which terminals on the capacitor are the correct hook-up. Can you damage anything by putting the wires on the wrong contacts?

[@damonmichaels6708]

@@timetryp422 I am not sure on this. on guitar capacitorsit doesn't matter

[@sindee1968]

You crack me up. You don’t need a new motor. That’s bullshit hahahahhaahahaaha I’m gonna try this. Crossing my fingers

[@rickjames6948]

Let's talk parts. Motor switch is a WEAR item. Those contacts will age and go bad from electrical contacts slash power surges slash in-rush current. Same contacts are in the timer on control panel. Like a set if ignition points in an old car. Motor should be near bulletproof.

[@damonmichaels6708]

Hey rick. I thought I stated that. I was a last minute video. Eric

[@whoiskand]

The dog are supposed to stop it from turning clockwise put it is not moving clounter clockwise

[@IvicaZeravica]

Michaels washing machine motor AMANA 38034 connect to electricity 😭😭😭😭😭😭

[@markrichards5630]

In a video its nice to SHOW things instead of just talking about them. It would have been so nice to see how you tweaked the problem part

[@damonmichaels6708]

Hey Mark. You know how many people I've helped with that video. Quit whining and make one yourself.

[@damonmichaels6708]

I have cooled down enough to say if you would have listened to my video you would have heard me lament the fact I did not do as you requested. This video was an afterthought! It is the only one out there that I know of. I've looked. If you want to write me and explain in laser fine detail your problem and what you have done thus far, maybe I can help you. I you want to complain, I can't help you. Eric

[@markrichards5630]

@@damonmichaels6708 I can appreciate that you said "Gee I should have filmed that" to yourself - all too late (and yes I did hear you say that but figured, its a video so there must be more to it than talking hands). But I guess getting that delicious add revenue was the higher priority. It's not a radio program after all. Whats that phrase? A picture (or video) is worth.... hmm, something but I've forgotten now. Its a pretty common saying, perhaps you've heard it? Kinda like this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rKS7lppprd2bhpY

[@williammaddox7374]

Talking video is not very helpful

[@imaxfli]

Should the motor peg spin freely and easily when the motor is in place?????

[@imaxfli]

What is symptom of that switch not working???

[@imaxfli]

Its not the pump, mine will fill, then does nothing, you can hear very slight buzz..........

[@imaxfli]

Should have showed how to take it out.