Watch This Before Connecting a Backup Generator to Your Home.

In this video I show you how I installed an interlock kit and 30 amp power inlet box to connect my generator to my home in the event of a power outage.
⚡️The first 1,000 people to use my link will get a full year of Premium membership to Woodworkers Guild of America for only $1.49: go.wwgoa.com/b...
👉 Backup Generator Recommendations
◾️ 4500 Running Watts - amzn.to/3LNSiq7
(This is on the smaller side but its a good quality generator and will work for you if you are selective with your loads)
◾️ 8000 Running Watts - amzn.to/3A8uACs
(This is the option I would choose. It has the size to run your loads without having to worry about staging them on. It can also handle most AC units with a soft start. I will be buying this one to replace what I have now)
◾️ 9500 Running Watts - amzn.to/3SvhGok
(I would buy this generator if I was planning on installing a 50A inlet box. This generator will back up your whole home. A 50A installation is the same process but with a larger wire, a 50A inlet and a 2-pole 50A breaker.)
◾️ 30A Generator Connection Cord (25 feet). amzn.to/3WM5z91
👉 Tools Used in the Video
◾️ Wire Strippers - amzn.to/4anTCtE
◾️ Combo Head Screwdriver - amzn.to/3NgKvCd
◾️ Multimeter kit - amzn.to/3F5ebxK
◾️ Linesman Pliers - amzn.to/3FqZaGV
◾️ Diagonal Cutting Pliers - amzn.to/3LPgs3X
☑️ All links shared in video descriptions/comments are affiliate links that help support the channel with no extra cost to you.
This video was sponsored by Woodworkers Guild of America.

[@BackyardMaine]

The first 1,000 people to use my link will get a full year of Premium membership to Woodworkers Guild of America for only $1.49: go.wwgoa.com/backyardmaine/

[@rontiemens2553]

Yet another post that is worth its weight in gold. THANK YOU!!!!

[@BackyardMaine]

Thank you my friend.

[@ronaldnaeyaert3653]

Great tutorial. I just got done with the same project but I did a couple things different. My generator is bigger at 6000W and has a 14-50 plug so I used NEMA 14-50 inlet. The generator does only produce 30A. I used 6g wire to connect to the panel and connected it to a 30a breaker. If I ever want to upgrade to a bigger generator, just change out the breaker to 50a

[@irishhandyman2009]

Great video! Very well explained without any added music. Your instructions couldnt have been clearer. Really appreciate your form and style of videos. Wish more on YT would follow your lead. Thanks again.

[@BackyardMaine]

Thanks so much my friend.. I love reading comments like yours..

[@FrankDarrin]

First, I have 16 years experience residential in upstate ny, have really liked your vids I'm a stickler and you do good 👍!! Keep it up

[@BackyardMaine]

Awesome thank you!

[@mikeinsugarland]

Thank you very much for a through explanation of the whole process - especially the detailed steps of how to connect to generator and sequence of breakers to turn on. Your attention to safety is top notch and should be first thing to consider for all DIYers. Great video !!

[@BackyardMaine]

Glad it was helpful! Thanks so much my friend.

[@ronyedin]

Great video. Personally I would go with a 50 amp setup. It’s not much difference in cost. It just a way to future proof the setup in case you get a bigger generator.

[@BackyardMaine]

Thanks for sharing!

[@mae2759]

Agree. I was going to say the same thing.

[@AceBoy2099]

I would too, but you can't plug a 30a gen into a 50a receptical. You could do a 50a system (wire and such) but put a 30a receptical, but I'm not sure the larger 50a wire will fit into a 30a receptical. One option that could work; do the 50a system fully, then make a 30->50 adapter to go from 30a gen to 50a receptical. The other way would be Ill-advised though, since the higher power generator could/will exceed the lower rated structures wiring.

[@mae2759]

@@AceBoy2099 They do make adapters, so wiring for 50A would make perfect sense.

[@AceBoy2099]

@mae2759 oh, ok. I was unaware of that adapter, I havnt looked for one as I only have a 30a generator and wiring setup.

[@EllieDowney]

I love the idea of a sub panel that contains all the necessary breakers for a power outage It’s genius

[@skillstacking]

Hope he can make a video on how to do it

[@rtsrts2317]

Cheaper than a transfer switch, too

[@spacecoastz4026]

Well, sort of, but not really necessary. The first question to answer is do you need a 240v circuit, such as a heater or well pump. If not, then your real requirement is only 120v. So if you're going to throw off most of the circuits, including all the 240v, then I don't see the purpose of a sub panel except it helps in not overloading the generator.

[@EllieDowney]

@@spacecoastz4026 I’m really confused by your comment. Are you trying to say that it’s only necessary if your normal panel if full? Cause that’s not entirely true. In this case it’s useful because in a power outage all the critical breaker are in one place together, so you don’t have to go looking for them. More off, they can all be thrown by one breaker.

[@spacecoastz4026]

@@EllieDowney Honestly it would take a long reply...but lets say you only have 120v requirement using a generator. So the best solution to manage generator load is to use the 120v 30 generator output....supplying the same 120v phase into your panel (both legs) and just shutting off all 240v breakers which he did in the video. Then you are not managing power by leg...and you really don't need a subpanel.

[@stuartkorte1642]

Always clear and precise. Also your video setups are great because you’re close enough to actually see what is happening. Thanks!!!!

[@BackyardMaine]

I appreciate that! Thanks for watching..

[@firemann3295]

That's the setup that I did when I upgraded my panel from 100a to 200a service. Absolutely the easiest, cheapest and most versatile.

[@BackyardMaine]

Great setup..

[@jamesdoyle7317]

Great information. Looking to have an Electrician come out and install one. Thank you

[@BackyardMaine]

Thanks for watching!

[@danasheets1774]

Excellent information

[@BackyardMaine]

Thank you my friend.

[@ElectricRob]

Great video John! Did this exact setup recently, and love it. Like you point out, it is so flexible - don't have to pick out certain loads to be on a separate "emergency panel".

[@BackyardMaine]

Thanks my friend.

[@V8SKULLS]

Hey there John' as a fellow Electrician i wanted to comment you on your work, set~up/video. Beautiful job. I live here in the Beautiful Hot Hurricane State of Florida. And i too have a Generator outside hook ~Up. Again very nice Job and keep your videos coming. God Bless and Be safe Brother

[@BackyardMaine]

Thanks so much my friend. Much appreciated. God bless.

[@daviso4954]

Than̈k you for providing an excellent set of instructions in a clear and concise manner. Very useful information that I can use on my 12kW solar system.

[@BackyardMaine]

Glad it was helpful!

[@vince6829]

Thank you so much for your videos.

[@BackyardMaine]

You are so welcome! Thanks for watching my friend.

[@slip0n0fall]

Top notch production quality, not to mention the content itself. I was about to have the exact same inlet setup, but it stuck out like a sore thumb against our vinyl (looks like yours is a little less intrusive in that corner nook). Anyway I think there's nothing wrong with only doing a 30A, doesn't matter if it's incrementally not much more to do a 50. You only need what you need. In our case id probably only need a generator once every few years, so it's only for critical functions like sump, well pump etc. If i were in TX with the bad power and heat, sure I'd want something to run my ac too

[@BackyardMaine]

Thank you..

[@pablolira1892]

What a great video. Greetings from Wisconsin

[@BackyardMaine]

Thank you very much!

[@bigkev350]

I have a split bus panel where an interlock kit and generator inlet receptacle was not an option for me. I went with a product called Generlink which was installed by the utility between the meter and the base. It prevents back feed and includes surge protection and a 50 ft 30A cable. Not the most inexpensive choice but definitely the easiest.

[@BackyardMaine]

I've heard about that type of connection but I don't think they are approved in most areas.

[@projectswithjw]

Nice video. Have you done one about surge protection devices yet? I know the code is starting to require it in some places. The ones that have 100+ kva surge rating that dump power with 12 gauge wire are just hard to hard for me to believe. Some models want to be attached to a 50amp breaker with 12 gauge wire and the breaker terminal data will show that's not supposed to be done but the installation instructions want it that way.

[@BackyardMaine]

I have that on my video list.. I will try to make it before the weather gets cold.

[@Chris_In_Texas]

Good install, however one slight issue (yes I know it's a nit pick) but as an electrician, you know that you need to have each breaker labeled on the panel: 2020 NEC Article 408.4(A). This has to be inside the door on on the face of the panel. Just in-case you forgot too... 🤠👍

[@BackyardMaine]

I have a clear plastic sleeve on the cover of the panel with a printed copy of the panel schedule. It was not shown in the video because I am making edits since I just installed the sub panel.

[@THEL0G1CAL1]

I did a very similar setup using the Reliance inlet about two years ago. I had an issue with the female end inserting and locking into place with the inlet. I needed to keep working it in with a pair of channel locks, but it works fine now that is "broken in". I wouldnt bash Reliance, but the one I had was definitely not cut correctly to accept the female end.

[@wvcaver774]

"Never be with out power" Is a BOLD statement !!!

[@BackyardMaine]

Never be without power for more than 10 minutes??

[@Rich22C]

My setup is almost the same as yours except I made my own interlock mechanism from scrap aluminum. It powers up my complete panel so I can select which breakers I choose. I was debating a larger generator but it only requires more gas even at idle and not worth it. Great video.

[@BackyardMaine]

I'm thinking about investing in an inverter generator with about an 8000 watt inverter. They sip the fuel when the load is light and you can safely run electronics with them.

[@bills6946]

You made and installed a code violation. If that interlock doesn’t work as required and you backfeed power into the utility and hurt or kill a worker, you are going to prison and lose everything you own. You must install an interlock manufactured and approved for the use.

[@jp-st2sl]

Thank you for the video very helpful

[@Muksanim2012]

I am surprised that you, as a certified/licensed electrician don't have a little more advanced set up. My father, a licensed electrician, replaced our fuse panel (yes, fuse panel) 40 years ago, upgrading to a 200 amp breaker box and separated individual circuits to a separate breaker. The old fuse panel was a no no for me. We got the house at a bargain but I would not have fuses carrying multiple circuits. I guess code was very weak when the house was built, or the inspector allowed improper work. This box allowed me to upgrade for finishing in the basement and outside, including a workshop with power tools. With the house located next to a stream we would get high water, especially during heavy storms, with occasional power outages. I bought a 5500 watt generator at HD during one of those outages caused by a hurricane. It was simple--power up the generator, run a 100 foot 12 gauge wire through the kitchen window, then run extension cords to power the fridge and a few lights. Yes, you get tired of doing that in the rain. I bought a 6 circuit Reliance transfer switch box. That was a heavenly solution since I could choose enough circuits to get by without spending time running a cord. Later after one leg of the generator stopped working, I upgraded to a CAT 8000 watt generator and a 10 circuit Reliance transfer switch box. The CAT generator and 10 circuit box allow me to run everything we need during a storm outage. Two meters in the box enable me to see how many watts are in use on each leg. I can run two AC units in summer, or one heater in winter (we have a wood stove too). The Reliance box is was less than you spent for your set up. With a small permanent shelter for the generator I can leave everything hooked up all the time. All I have to do is go out, start the generator (electric start), go downstairs and turn on each circuit I need. With all the 10 circuits on, I so far have not exceeded 4500 watts. We have all power, overhead lights, sump pump, freezer, cable TV, internet. The Reliance box is as easy as flipping a switch. Yes, initial installation is more than the type of set up you did, but was worth the time spent for me. I did the labor myself. Edit: on second thought, your labor was similar, since you used a secondary box for your circuits.

[@BackyardMaine]

I installed it for a battery backup system with an automatic transfer switch so I needed the sub panel to limit the load to under 6000w during an outage. I'm posting the battery power station video on August 12th. It's a pretty nice setup.

[@Muksanim2012]

@@BackyardMaine I see. It will be more advanced.

[@pmarosi73]

Great video - thank you. Have you covered bonded/floating neutral generator topic and grounding (in any other videos? I just read about it and wanted to have your thoughts. Thanks.

[@BackyardMaine]

Not yet! I am planning a video to cover this in the next few weeks since a lot of people have been asking for it. Even many electricians get it wrong and it has to do with whether you are running a bonded neutral generator or more importantly when a bonded neutral or floating neutral is required. Stay tuned for that video. I'll cover everything you need to know about the subject.

[@fredeerickbays]

I'll be waiting for that one on the battery b/c that is what I really want. Already have a gen but I have to pug things into it. I also have 2 little batterers I use run all my electronic stuff and little solar panels to charge them with. One will last about 3 days so even here in Upstate NY I always have at least one of them charged.

[@BackyardMaine]

You keep your fuel cans outside?

[@ranytravis4953]

Excellent video ...good job

[@BackyardMaine]

Thank you very much!

[@skillstacking]

This is great. Can you make a video on the to install the subpannel? How can you have to breakers for one leg of power. Hope you can make it

[@rupe53]

that gen set is 240 volts so two legs of power going into a double pole breaker. In his case he can either feed the entire main panel or just that sub panel.

[@Joe-pb3lx]

Thanks that was awesome

[@BackyardMaine]

My pleasure. Thanks for watching.

[@DBRGB]

Your explanation and thoroughness is appreciated, however, as an experienced electrician, you should know that when turning on breakers, need to use your non-dominant hand and turn your face away because breakers can fail and explode. I’m sure your audience would appreciate knowing that.

[@BackyardMaine]

I worked as an electrical engineer in a large semiconductor manufacturing facility for 22 years. We switched large loads often. (1200A-4000A) (208v, 480v, 4160v and 34.5 kv.) I was responsible for electrical safety and I taught NFPA-70E. I was responsible for calculating and labeling every part of the electrical distribution system with incident available incident energy and the required PPE to be used when switching. With this knowledge I know that the incident energy is primarily dependent of the size and impedance of the transformer, wire size and distance from the source. Most residential installation as so low that the only PPE required would be safety glasses.

[@whitetiger8652]

Appreciate the video.

[@BackyardMaine]

My pleasure..

[@AceBoy2099]

You mention the interlock kit is for the left side, it looks to me you can just flip it over and it'd fit on the right side.... i may be mistaken but in an up/down main breaker it's center aligned so mirrored either way, left/right main i could understand it only working on one side.

[@thomasbonse]

Two things I was a little surprised about not seeing. First, the siding mounting block would've worked a little better in a vertical orientation. Second was the lack of discussion concerning preventing water ingress. IE duct seal and caulking.

[@BackyardMaine]

I took care of all that but I didn't want the video being about the siding connection. I thought about installing the block the other way but I didn't like the cutout in the third piece of siding. It fit perfectly the way I have it.

[@10hunterLab]

Excellent info. Thanks for taking the time posting. Really helps us out and keeps us on the straight and narrow. BTW, are you an Air Force vet?

[@BackyardMaine]

Thank you.. Yes, I was Stationed at McClellan AFB back in the 80s. 🇺🇸

[@10hunterLab]

@BackyardMaine Excellent. Me-all over, 22 years.

[@BackyardMaine]

@@10hunterLab Thanks for your service brother.

[@10hunterLab]

@BackyardMaine And you also!

[@blamuk]

i cant wait for the battery backup video. I wonder why you wouldnt just connect the battery to the 30a box in this video (i.e. just replace generator with a battery) I want to do exactly that with the 240v 7.2kW outlet from a F150 lighting.

[@BackyardMaine]

The reason is that sometimes our power goes out for multiple days and the battery is limited. I like the automatic backup that the battery provides and also the clean power for running electronics. My plan is to run the generator less and use it to recharge the battery. I will post the power station video on Monday, the 12th.

[@timgore1487]

Great video

[@BackyardMaine]

Thank you!

[@HOGSBREATH1978]

Great video. My issue is the main house breaker is in a panel outside next to meter. Inside breaker panel is just breakers. Not sure best approach??

[@BackyardMaine]

Do you have a space in the exterior panel to install a second two pole breaker? This is common and then the interlock and inlet box will be installed outside. My friend Adam from How To Home made a video going over this type of installation. www.youtube.com/@HowToHomeDIY

[@ronaldkovacs7080]

With this type of set up, is it necessary to remove the neutral bond in the generator?

[@BackyardMaine]

Yes it is.

[@reason2008]

Thanks so much for these videos! Is the sub panel required? We could theoretically just turn on the breakers we need in the main panel, right?

[@BackyardMaine]

No the sub panel is not required. I installed it for a battery backup system with an automatic transfer switch so I needed the sub panel to limit the load to under 6000w during an outage. I'm posting the battery power station video on August 12th.

[@mikelyons70]

Thank You

[@BackyardMaine]

My pleasure..

[@a-teamIL]

What wire stripper did you use on that 10/3 wire for the inlet outside? Very cool production -- love it! Keep up the great work, sir. USAF!!

[@BackyardMaine]

That was the Milwaukee 7 in 1. I really like them. I have them linked in the video description

[@a-teamIL]

@@BackyardMaine Thanks so much!!

[@jamesbrubaker8395]

Thank you for the excellent video. I had to run through it a second time as the website for the interlock was not on your product list. I do have a question which I never see discussed. Should the generator itself be connected to a separate ground rod driven down by the generator?

[@BackyardMaine]

I will cover grounding and bonding in a video this month. It depends on your setup but in almost all cases a ground rod is not required. Many homeowners and even some electricians don't understand that the neutral and ground can only be bonded in one location and often time generators are connected with a bonded neutral. I will cover all this coming right up.

[@albeit65]

Do you think a video on a ev charger installation might promote a lot of interest? BTW your videos are excellent.

[@BackyardMaine]

I do think that would be a popular subject but I don't have an EV so I would be installing it for possible future use. Thank you.. I'm glad you enjoy the content..

[@jerrydemas2020]

John, I a past video you said that you would address the ground rod issue with portable generators.

[@BackyardMaine]

I have that video coming up this month Jerry. Stay tuned..

[@sunburn72]

hello and thanks to you, I'm learning about this topic. Will it be the same if I use a 50A instead of 30A? Also, can you do a video on how to properly do a sub panel that can have an inlet for a generator for backup power? Thanks

[@BackyardMaine]

The same process but you would use 6 gauge NM cable, a 50A inlet box and a 50A two pole breaker. Here's a video from a fellow creator on how to install a sub panel. Everyday Home Repairs - kzbin.info/www/bejne/hpi6Xql-g958eZIsi=evktXY6LHHBlBTB5 and L

[@PurelightElectric]

What was that little grey tool you used to strip the 10/3 when bringing the wire into the panel. I didn't see it listed on the "tools used" list. Thanks and great video as usual!

[@BackyardMaine]

Its a Greenlee NM Cable Ripper, here's an affiliate link - amzn.to/3SB35b5

[@jamesclark7248]

Could you offer comments on why you didn't use or recommend an inverter generator for home backup?

[@BackyardMaine]

Only because I don't currently have one. I may be getting a large inverter generator in the near future and will do a video on that once I have tested it out.

[@Ironfurnaceroom]

I bought a Champion 8000W running watt, 10000 peak watt tri fuel generator. Now I have a couple questions. The 125/240 Volt outlet is only rated for 33 Amps (the breaker) So even though I have a bigger generator, I'm still limited to what I can supply the house with on the panel. The duramax that you suggested has a nice 50 AMP plug in I see... But it doesn't do natural gas, which is what I was looing for.. I wanted to have the generator some 75 feet away from the house... the 30Amp 75 foot cords with L14 plugs are good enough?

[@BackyardMaine]

Duramax also offers a tri-fuel that runs on natural gas. Whether 30A feed is enough would depend on what you want to run. I will probably upsize my generator and the feed to 50A at some point since power outages have become more prevalent. This is an affiliate link to the generator if you want to check it out. amzn.to/3MrmPKG

[@mae2759]

So with this setup, how do you know when the main power comes back on?

[@akbychoice]

Many utility companies have online updates and some send you a message to your phone.

[@BackyardMaine]

I try to keep an eye on my utility updates and I go down and open the generator breaker and close the main on occasion to see if power has been restored. There are devices you can purchase for this as well.

[@MyClutteredGarage]

Nicely done, John. I did that exact setup at my last house. I need to do it here at the farmhouse. How important is it to use 10/3 vs 10/2?

[@BackyardMaine]

Thank you Ed. It is very important to run 10/3 because you will need a neutral with a 120v/240v connection. With 10/2 current imbalance will be traveling on the ground wire which can become hazardous. If there is a difference in potential between the generator ground and another grounded surface you could be shocked. Current always travel in the direction of least resistance and you could become part of that path. I'm going to make a dedicated video going over whether a ground rod is needed and whether or not you have a bonded or floating neutral on the generator and the requirements for both. That will be my next upload or possible the one after that.

[@MyClutteredGarage]

@@BackyardMaine thanks John!

[@BackyardMaine]

@@MyClutteredGarage Unless you only had a 120v backup Ed..

[@jameter21]

I have a pony panel with the critical circuits. It has a large three pole switch that connects either to the generator or to a breaker on the main panel. My generator has a master breaker, so do I need another switch somewhere on that line connecting to the pony panel? This video is very well put together. Thanks!

[@BackyardMaine]

If you have a three position transfer switch you're good to go. I assume you mean the switch is connect to utility power in one position, to nothing in the middle position and the the generator in the 3rd position.

[@jameter21]

@@BackyardMaine Exactly. Thanks for the reply.

[@MILLERS066]

I just picked up the generac 8000w portable unit. It's a beast. Why not just run the generator power directly to the sub panel? Seems redundant to power your main panel to power your sub panel. Either way, I'm doing something similar but with the generac home link kit.

[@BackyardMaine]

I have a battery power station and an auto-transfer switch which connects to the sub panel. I'll be posting that video on August 12th. Pretty cool setup. I wanted to run the generator to the main panel to give me more flexibility to select loads and to recharge my batteries when needed. I think I'm going to but a bigger generator soon. I thinking about 8000 running watts but I'm also thinking about an inverter generator.

[@mitchellgarnett1845]

Very helpful. I have been considering an interlock to replace a Reliance through the wall connection but my house has a 50 year old 100 amp panel that is full. As much as I'd like to I can't afford a 200 amp panel upgrade. To make room for the 30 amp 2 pole breaker I'd have to replace breakers with half size breakers. I'm not sure this is a good idea. Would you comment please?

[@BackyardMaine]

With lighting being mostly LED now you may be able to combine a few lighting circuits and free up space. Another option would be to install a small sub panel and bring 6 or 12 circuits over to free up space for the generator breaker and the sub panel feed. I just added a sub panel to my system.

[@mitchellgarnett1845]

@@BackyardMaine Thanks!

[@BirdDog.]

I paid $19 for interlock on Amazon and $26 for the box.

[@dflenn9423]

So, is it ok to use the NM-B through the wall since it is not exposed to the outside or UV light so it cannot degrade?? I thought you had to use a conduit of some sort and THHN or equivalent? Thanks!

[@BackyardMaine]

Yes, it's code compliant to run NM-B through a wall into an exterior box.

[@danielmilliken1684]

When do you need an inlet box with an in-use weather cover?

[@BackyardMaine]

Good question. Article 406.9(b) covers this requirement. The reliance inlet that I'm using is NEMA 3R rated which covers falling rain sleet and snow but not wind blown rain sleet of snow. The cover shields the recessed connection when in use. These are listed for outdoor use in wet locations by the manufacturer for connecting generators. Depending on your inspector you may have an argument about interpretation.

[@Rgarcia713]

I just got the same plug installed and bought a 10,000 watt/8,000 running and wanted to just run my 4 ton ac then when the house is cold 72 turn it off and run most of my small house 3 bedroom. But the generator kicks off when I try AC, would you recommend a soft start or something or do I need a bigger generator??

[@BackyardMaine]

Your generator should be able to handle the AC unit but it will not be able to overcome the inrush. A soft start will most likely solve the problem. Depending on a few factors a 4 ton ac unit should draw about 20A. With a 30A power connection you should try to stay below 24A of continuous load (80% of 30A) even though the generator can handle more. If the generator has a 50A connection, that will allow to apply more load and stay under 80% of the circuit rating and within the generators capacity. To do this you will need to up size your inlet box, the wire size and the generator breaker size at your electrical panel. Oh and also your connection cord. Otherwise be careful about what you run while the AC is running.

[@mcarroll598]

I believe some generators the neutral is bonded and some aren’t.

[@BackyardMaine]

I'm planning a video on that right now.

[@mcarroll598]

@@BackyardMaine cool look forward to it.

[@donl1410]

Unfortunately, not a subpanels have main breakers.

[@dflenn9423]

I thought the new code specified that the back feed breaker be held down to the panel by mechanical means?

[@BackyardMaine]

It is held in by the dead front / cover.

[@dflenn9423]

@@BackyardMaine Great thanks!

[@dflenn9423]

Another question. Does your generator have the neutral floating??

[@BackyardMaine]

Yes.. Thats an important question. The neutral can only be bonded in one location so unless you're switching it then the gen needs to be floating. I will post a video on bonding and grounding very soon.

[@dflenn9423]

@@BackyardMaine Great that's what I thought. Thanks so much. Great stuff!!

[@MR_MOO]

If you have a running generator continuous load up to 30 amps shouldn’t your breaker and wire be 20% larger? If you install a 30 amp circuit your continuous load should be 24 amps or less shouldn’t it? I plan to install 8AWG and 40 amp breaker to support 30 amp loading.

[@BackyardMaine]

The key here is continuous load. Most loads are intermittent. My continuous load is 5A at the most. At 4800 watts the generator is only capable of producing 20A of continuous power.

[@addminusDIY]

Question is that allowed in your area to double tap neutral wire?

[@BackyardMaine]

I’m not sure what you’re referring too. The neutral goes from the inlet to the neutral bus.

[@addminusDIY]

@@BackyardMaine not about the inlet wire , its from your panel

[@roscoe9988]

Please help. I have an off grid cabin in Maine. I want to run my Bluetti ac200 max power station to a breaker panel and have a gas generator for backup. My plan was to use 30 amp breakers for each with an interlock kit. My question is…Do I need to keep all the grounds and neutrals at the panel separate or should they be bonded ? Thanks

[@thomasbonse]

There should only ever be a single bonding point between neutral and ground. So long as that interconnect remains present, no additional bonding point should be made between the two.

[@BackyardMaine]

Grounded electrical systems are required to have a ground and neutral bond at the first disconnect. When using a generator for backup you would want a floating neutral at the generator. If you are using a bonded neutral at the generator then you will need to switch the neutral along with the hot wires when transferring to generator. This would be considered a separately derived system. Have a bond at the generator and at the utility is not code compliant and can be hazardous.

[@minibikemadman]

did you unbond the neutral on the generator? Mine is going to be used only for home backup.

[@BackyardMaine]

Unless you switch the neutral then the generator needs to be floating neutral as apposed to a bonded neutral. The bond at the generator can be disconnected if it's a bonded neutral generator. Also if you want to run the generator for other than a home backup, they make bonding plugs that can be connected to a receptacle or you could make one as well.

[@minibikemadman]

@BackyardMaine awesome thank you this is gonna be home only..I pulled the panel off and going to unbond it from the frame..its pretty easy on these things.

[@user-ls3uf5lm4f]

How is the sub panel connected to the circuits?

[@BackyardMaine]

Through a 60A breaker in the main panel.

[@briancormier2861]

I'm not an electrician but shouldn't the new generator breaker have an additional method of securing it to the panel per NEC 408.36 (D) "Back-Fed Devices: Plug-in-type overcurrent protection devices or plug-in type main lug assemblies that are backfed and used to terminate field-installed ungrounded supply conductors shall be secured in place by an additional fastener that requires other than a pull to release the device from the mounting means on the panel."

[@BackyardMaine]

The interlock kit comes with a zip tie and a label instructing not to remove or move the breaker. This covers the required.

[@ronnyhusser1583]

Hi I like your video's it is always cool to watch another trades person doing electrical installations and such, as for this video I must say that on using a interlock kit is NOT ideal , several reasons why, firstly if you read the manufactures item use for this product it is for specific area's and I may be wrong and the listing may have changed ,but, I do not think it is listed for a homes main electrical service panel. It is listed for specific area's and uses only. If that is being the case of its listing any damage that may occur will not be covered by any insurance on the home for using a product in a use not designed for what it listed for. Secondly being a qualified electrician and knowing what you are powering up and the limitations of your loads and generator are important, thing is some one that is not knowledgeable or qualified about the load they may be powering up can cause severe risk of fire to their wiring and damage to the generator. Look at it from this point of view a homes 100 amp electrical typical sizes of wires for 100 Amp Service are 4 AWG or 2 AWG for copper wiring and 2 AWG, 1 AWG, or 1/0 AWG for aluminum or copper-clad wiring, here you are potentially powering up the electrical panel with a number 10 awg, quite the size difference. Now picture a unqualified individual just powering up their house panel with out regards to the size of the load and just powering up the whole panel, kind of spells a recipe for disaster. I have learned over the years always assume that a unqualified individual will some how come into play with the equipment and best to safe guard against that. Will this work to safely to power up a home and prevent the risk of back feeding onto the grid yes it will, but, can you be sure that a qualified individual will be handling and operating the equipment?

[@kungfurry]

I’m a sparky, not a framer, but I wouldn’t expect a sill plate at that height. Is that what you meant?

[@BackyardMaine]

I have a half daylight basement which is why you see the window. But you are absolutely correct. What I meant to say was the rim joist.

[@michaelfarnick9414]

Where did you get the white mounting box?

[@BackyardMaine]

Home Depot and Lowes sell this same block.

[@derekparent752]

Did you take out an Electrical Permit to do this work? I do find it interesting that as an electrician you are willing to explain to homeowners how to install a generator back up system without really getting into code rules. Did you explain to them what a bonded or floating neutral is? What to look for in a generator in regard to that? Does your generator require a ground rod to bond the frame? Is the neutral bonded to the service neutral or is it required to be switched on a 3 pole breaker with the line cables so as not to electrocute hydro workers? Something tells me one could be placed in a form of liability in regard to someone experiencing property damage, or god forbid.. personal injury.

[@BackyardMaine]

I'm actually working on a video about that subject now. Should be out soon. I find a large number of electricians don't understand this and how it relates to portable generators used as a home backup.

[@derekparent752]

@@BackyardMaine totally agree, considering most electricians don’t understand it I find it highly unlikely that a home owner would be up to that task. As I believe a bonded generator becomes a supply service and will then be governed by such laws and therefore must be disconnected from the Utility Service Neutral as well (not allowed to have 2 Supply Services connected to each other) leading to the outcome that a bonded generator will require it’s own grounding system, Rod, plate..etc and must also be isolated from the main service supply via a mechanical interlock system as you used with the line voltage. To make it simple, the video you provided is for a floating neutral generator and only that. I would also recommend bonding the generator frame (equipment ground) to a separate ground where it will likely be sitting, so many rules and codes with this stuff. Good luck.

[@BackyardMaine]

@@derekparent752 Actually bonding the frame to a separate ground rod is not ideal and not recommended. I'll go over that as well. Stay tuned.

[@derekparent752]

@@BackyardMaine read the owners manual, it is recommended by the manufacturer, and also probably not a bad idea as it appears you wish to use this generator in the winter time, and outside where snow drifts are a possibility. As the ground pin on this particular model is Not connected to the Stator windings it also means when used as a stand alone generator, there is No ground.. this makes for a reasonable assumption that the User becomes the ground.

[@BackyardMaine]

@@derekparent752 You may be surprised to know that the ground is for lightning and surge protection. Without a neutral to ground bond you can connect a hot wire directly to a ground rod and only draw a few amps. You have to be very careful about the distance between one ground rod and another as well. Go and check out my friend Mike Holts youtube channel. They do a great job of breaking down the common myths associated with grounding and also provide context around the code requirements as well. kzbin.info/www/bejne/p3-9dGpuZ7itd7Msi=OfXrZdsnon6nS6WE

[@rylg.4442]

Hi, Can I use interlock kit option vs. Transfer switch for 50 amp breaker? Is it code compliant? Thanks

[@BackyardMaine]

Yes, absolutely. It would be the same process but with a 50A inlet, a 50A 2-pole breaker and of course larger wire.

[@rylg.4442]

@@BackyardMaine Thank you for all your wonderful videos. Take care.

[@BackyardMaine]

@@rylg.4442 My pleasure..

[@jameyjeffords5631]

What are those CTs for on your mains

[@BackyardMaine]

Part of a new automatic transfer switch for a battery power station. I’ll post that video on August 12th.

[@MrZorbatron]

I am still more a fan of the three pole double throw knife switch. Combine that with 50 amp connection, and you can run your entire house as long as you have a brain.

[@JorgeRivera-ik5ue]

How much for labor

[@BackyardMaine]

It was free.. lol

[@howardbrown644]

This is the easy one. Just about every panel I've seen does not have a spare breaker space. You have to be a little creative. Usually end up double lugging onto a 30A breaker and can't use an interlock.

[@BackyardMaine]

I can almost always find circuits that can be doubled up. Especially lighting circuits. I could run every light in my house on a 10A breaker now with all LED lighting.

[@thomasbonse]

​@@BackyardMainePretty soon there will be new 10A lighting circuits on 16awg wire being installed, thanks to the latest code changes.

[@SgtJoeSmith]

that service loop code. you said extra 6 inches was all you could have. yes if stapling 12 inches from the box. but you said it had to be within 12 inches. not at least 12 inches. so if you staple 2 inches from the box you can have 16 inches on the loop. correct? Talk about you tubers giving false info. lol.

[@thomasbonse]

No. The measurement is along the length of the wire from the box to the first attachment (IE staple).

[@SgtJoeSmith]

@@thomasbonse yes and that is 18 inches. so thats 18 inches from box to staple. so if staple is 2 inches from box you can have a 16 inch loop like i originally said.

[@BackyardMaine]

You can staple inches from the box and leave a 16 inch loop but you have to be careful of the bending radius of the cable. Also I think that would be an unprofessional installation and the big loop would be at risk of damage from other trades. If you are worried about the drywall installers just be careful to push you wire all the way back in the box.

[@bobwalton3642]

You use the My a lot you must want everyone to know that it’s your house guess what no one cares who’s house it is

[@BackyardMaine]

Not at all. I don't do that intentionally and I don't care by the way what you or anyone else thinks. Kind of a dumb comment.

[@larryr8320]

No one probably cares that your name is Bob Walton, but yet you use it, Nobody cares! If you don’t like his presentation style, don’t watch him, but to comment on something so insignificant, when there is plenty of valuable information being presented in these videos is IDIOTIC!

[@MrPLC999]

Unfortunately I have one of the old Zinsco/Sylvania breaker panels and there's just no way to put an interlock on it. I'm keenly aware of the absolute requirement to keep the main breakers off while running the generator. I'm the only one who will ever be dragging the generator out during a power failure and there will be no mistakes in connecting and running it. (Yes, I see you rolling your eyes there in the back row...) That said, my generator is a 10-year-old Honda eu2200. I got tired of running long extensions cords all over the house just to keep the refrigerators running and a few table lamps. Now, the generator gets plugged into an outlet below the breaker panel (outside) and it has its own breaker. Of course, it's single phase so I had to reorganize the panel a little in order to have all critical circuits on the one powered phase. So now in a power outage, I can conveniently keep both friges running along with furnace, computers, clocks, TV, garage door, surveillance system, burglar alarm and most lighting circuits. Of course, there's no A/C or dryer, and we avoid using the microwave, toaster oven, coffee maker, etc. The generator has no problem keeping up and it will run all night long on a tank of gas while we're asleep.

[@igfoobar]

Avoid anything made by Reliance Controls if you can. Their products are cheaply made and are a fire hazard. Buy your inlet receptacles from Hubbell or Leviton if you can.

[@BackyardMaine]

I agree Hubbell is top shelf but I have never had an issue with this inlet and I have installed it several times.

[@sidlives2672]

I did end up with Reliance for their 15/20a transfer switches. I have 3 of them. One for the fridge, one for the furnace and one for to e freezer. Didn’t have room for a sub panel, so went with that setup. Have an inlet box to an outlet next to the panel. Haven’t had to use it yet, but it offers me a way to avoid running extension cords all over the place and with a long 10 gauge extension cord, can have the generator reasonably far from the house.

[@igfoobar]

I hope those transfer boxes are the ones with full size breakers. The ones with "button breakers" are a code violation. Those buttons are supplemental devices and not rated for branch circuit protection. When I pointed that out in one of my videos, Reliance Controls started sending me legal threats. Then they started harassing me all over the internet. Real scumbags those people are.