Watch THIS before Selecting your EV Charger Circuit Breaker Size DIY

[@BrandonCoffing]

There are a lot of crappy ev charger install videos…. Thank you for giving me some real information! This is extremely helpful

[@douglas18]

These are details no one else is sharing. And in a very clear way. Thank you.

[@dgtv3320]

Glad it was helpful!

[@ChristopherReichertBoston]

This was the best video I've seen on how to calculate your load. Well done. Straight to the point, even explaining the formulas. Perfect.

[@dennis954rr01]

Best video I've seen on this subject. As an avid DIYer I know the basics but the detail you go into in this video is exceptional, thanks my friend!

[@vmsenthilkumar]

This is the best math and highly educational video I have seen when it comes to EV charging.

[@rand49er]

Excellent video. I did this. I downloaded the last 13 mos electrical power usage for our home from DTE Energy here in Southeast Michigan. It gave maximum demand by the hour in an MS Excel compatible spreadsheet form. I used the "max" function and found the maximum kWh level of usage covering over 9600 hourly readings. I then divided by 240 and multiplied by 1000. The answer was 44.1 amps. So, speeding ahead, the inequality is met for the amperage levels under my consideration. Thank you!

[@RyanRhodes90]

FANTASTIC and helpful video. I've searched a long time for someone to explain how selecting a breaker works, specifically for EV. You make it very clear. I have experience adding an electrical sub-meter and am not afraid of electricity, however understanding the calculations is something I didn't want to screw around with. Thank you!

[@fredsalter1915]

Agreed. This is a wonderfully helpful vid!

[@Themachinewon]

You guys need to read the rest of the comments. He’s not correct on a lot of things, and he’s not a electrican…

[@JethroXP]

Super helpful, thank you! My local utility wouldn’t let me download a years worth of data all at once, I had to do it one month at a time. I have a 200Amp panel and found that my typical monthly usage peaked around the mid 30s to low 40s in amps, but then found one day, where for about 4 hours, our usage peaked at 66Amps, which when I looked it up turned out to be a large social gathering we hosted at our house. Now I know, which is awesome! Before this I was thinking I would need to get a 14-50 outlet, but now I know my panel can support the 60Amp wall charger. Very cool!

[@phillipsusi1791]

Stick with the 14-50. My wife's 2016 model X can only charge at 40 amps anyhow, and my new model 3 only 32 amps. The 14-50 plug and cable can handle that and is cheaper than the permanent EVSE, which won't let you charge any faster anyhow. I could only fit a 30 amp breaker in my panel anyhow so I charge at 27 amps and it still charges in only a few hours. As long as it's ready by morning, who cares about charging faster, even if it is possible.

[@JethroXP]

@@phillipsusi1791 I ended up going with the 60 amp circuit and the Tesla wall charger, I can charge at 48 amps, or roughly 44 miles of range per hour.

[@phillipsusi1791]

@@JethroXP Ahh, apparently all but the M3RWD are now capable of taking 48 amps, but with no option for the dual charger to get the higher capacity like there used to be.

[@trustbuster23]

Super helpful. When putting in the new circuit, I wanted it to be capable of the highest possible draw to be as future proof as I could make it. But when selecting an EVSE you don't necessarily need one that can draw the absolute maximum the circuit can handle. I figured out that a 32 amp EVSE was going to easily handle everything I need, 99.9% of the time. So I got a slightly smaller EVSE, which does three things, all good for me: (1) it was a bit cheaper to buy initially, (2) the car charges at a marginally slower rate which is good for the batteries; and (3) the wires in the wall, the plug, etc. are all running a solid notch below what they are theoretically capable of handling, which just creates some additional margin of safety. Code is the minimum requirement you need to meet, but there is nothing wrong with pulling 32 amps through a circuit that is theoretically capable of handling 40 or 48. It is basically the same idea as plugging a 60watt lamp into a standard household outlet that can handle up to 1,800 watts. Most people who haven't lived with an EV don't understand that you plug it in when you get home in the evening and then you really don't much care how long it takes to charge as long as it is ready to go by early the next AM. Fast charging is rarely important at home, you really only care about that when you are on a longer trip and you have to top off the battery to continue the journey.

[@ledzeppelin1212]

Yes, indeed. I'm trying to install an EV charging outlet in my garage. What I'm trying to figure out is: is it even worth the extra cost to buy a 240V/60A outlet and breaker as well as more copper if I will most likely charge at 24 or 32A? I might be paying an additional $100 or so for something that I will never use.

[@trustbuster23]

@@ledzeppelin1212 I think that depends on how long you plan to be in your current house more than anything. Batteries and charging rates are only going to get better. I decided to future proof because I may be in the house for another decade. If I knew I was moving in three years I might have done things differently. I would say you have to be confident there is a 0% chance you will need higher charging rate because plug and wire are cheap compared to the cost of the electrician. You definitely do not want to pay to have it all ripped out and replaced in five years.

[@slacayo]

Great video and clear. I’m not an electrician but I admire the craft. Lots of physics involved.

[@ganeshtimilsina6558]

This is the best and most scientific video regarding pre installation of any home EV charger in the entire KZbin. Tnankk.

[@JPatel1995]

Thank you for building the best ev charging network in the entire world !

[@cosmicpc2886]

Awesome video! For those who don’t heed the safety warnings, good luck!

[@hoffmanfiles]

I'm a 7 year guy. Thank you. I'm putting this all together. Hell yeah. I take the classes but still like videos like this to connect the picture.

[@Junoj101]

Thank you for taking your time to provide extremely useful information in a way that is very easy to understand.

[@dmz4750]

This is the most informational and helpful video that I watched in preparation for the EV charge install. Thank you very much!

[@dgtv3320]

Glad it was helpful!

[@Ivelin]

Thank you for the detailed educational video. Very helpful as I navigate project proposals from multiple EV charger installers.

[@PunjabiKush]

I needed this because of my OCD about safety first 👷‍♂️

[@tslah]

Best of the best tutorial to figure out whether Tesla home charger can handle up to 44 mi of range added per hour at 11.5 kW / 48 amp output or not!!!! 👍👍👍👍

[@jscw2]

Thanks a lot for the info. I follow your way to calculate the new load and the inspection of my EV charge installation was just passed today.

[@amberlee9892]

I use that Emeryville Supercharger! Good job!

[@TheCrooksandCastle]

thanks DG. you helped a lot of people, made the knowledge simple, and most importantly hire a professional.!

[@elutheromaniac]

Best description I have ever encounter. Thank you!

[@PaulG75]

Great explanation. Easy to figure out for someone with little knowledge like myself

[@thefilmpoets]

If you have a subpanel, get an amperage meter and run everything. Place it around each hot leg to see the amperage.

[@ltsky311]

strangely my usage was nearly identical as yours over the 1 year readout. so this was fairly easy for me thanks.

[@h2000l]

Should the feeder wire size always greater or equal to the main breaker. The role of the main breaker is to protect these wires?

[@JustSayN2O]

Thank you sir for this Master Class of this topic. Long contemplating my first EV acquisition, I now consider myself very-well informed. I do have one question remaining, regarding house electrical wiring. Working with an architect and builder, I designed and built my home 12 years ago. I requested a dedicated circuit with high-capacity wiring from the service panel to the garage wall. I told them to terminate the garage end of the wires in a standard junction box since my plan was to hard wire the wall-mounted charger. And for inside the service panel, I told them to hold off installing a circuit breaker, just leave the three wires (L1, L2, ground, NO NEUTRAL) unconnected to anything. The breaker would be selected and installed in the future. Long after moving in, I discovered that the electrical subcontractor used #8 AWG (19-stranded copper THHN/THWN-2 wires inside dedicated raceways) for the wires between the service panel and the junction box in the garage wall. It's about 35 foot run. From what I have read, based on wire gauge and the distance of the run, the highest amperage circuit breaker I can install would be a 30 amp. Agree? Or could I install a 40 amp breaker?

[@wuyugaraje2365]

One question, if I use the 50amp nema 6-50 extension 75ft from the third floor to the first floor there is a 25ft drop from top to bottom will there be any problems? I set the charger to 32amp, it will only use 70%, the extension is a 6 cable that can withstand 50amp.

[@glenembry9041]

Great video love that you broke down the formulas so clearly. Thanks

[@davesivirn2283]

perfect timing. i am going to be having my installed in the next month or so. Now I can tell if the person I hire knows how to do it safely

[@Mr5Stars]

Great Video, Now i am ready to be my own Electrician :-) (Kidding) the content of this video is so clear, that now i can make sure the electrician i will hire knows his stuff

[@dgtv3320]

Glad it helped!

[@muffinsmuffins8074]

Keep posting content. This video was incredibly informative and easily digestible. Keep it up

[@Paso-Robo]

Thank you for a great explanation. At 1:22 your drawing shows the Ground Rod connected to the Neutral bus, and the two connected together. Is this the correct way to connect them or should the ground be isolated from the neutral. Thanks

[@SamsungGalaxy-ls8ys]

If you still have the generator and have used it, could you do a review on it?

[@RB-xv4si]

Based on NEC 110.14(C)(1)(a), what is your determination of the Tesla Wall Connector terminal temperature rating?

[@alexlan9667]

This is exactly knowledge that I am looking for, keep up good work!

[@dgtv3320]

Glad it was helpful!

[@mikesamyn7054]

I truely appriciate your presentation. Thank You!

[@dgtv3320]

Glad it was helpful!

[@michaelbyrne6515]

Why are we dividing the kwh in our peak usage by 240? If everything in the house ran on 120, we would divide by 120, then the amperage would be higher. My house is mixed but only the stove and dryer run on 240.

[@frankdelao4067]

My breaker box was able to supply the 2 60 amp breakers I used a pair tandem slim breakers as all the slots were occupied. One tandem has the original circuits, the other handles the charger. Amperage used during charging can be controlled through the Tesla app. It is more efficient to charge at a lower current. A lot of heat is dissipated into the air at high current. When I do need to charge at a faster rate I have the option to do so.

[@thomasgriffin4714]

Please make a video about doing this with a subpanel.

[@TheUweRoss]

What about the transformer up stream of the meter? It seems to me that can be another limiting factor. I have a home that has two 200A panels, one for the house and another for some out-buildings. Service wires to both panels are 4/0. But the pad mounted transformer feeding it all is only rated for 25 kVA, which is only 104A at 240V.

[@gonzalezfd]

I installed a 50amp for my Tesla charger based on the installation instructions. Perhaps the installation instructions have changed since 2018.

[@hanchulshin5685]

Question : Why do you devide by 240V for "Max Demand" from historic data? The US use usually 120V for normal device (which used in historic data) even though we need to add 240V device.

[@romanotsup8887]

Very informatic video. Would you please confirm that if I am in US, the only change I need to do is on 8:03 mins I should divide by 110V and not to 240V and all others remain the same?

[@NHRunDad]

It would still be 240V - the charger would be 240, much like an electric dryer or oven. The rest of your outlets would be 110V typically.

[@romanotsup8887]

@@NHRunDad But here I calculate EXISTING usage, which is based on 110V except dryer and oven.

[@dgtv3320]

If you are pulling data from your utility provider, you divide by 240v. Data provided by utility is derived from the Meter. There are current transformers that measure the current, it then multiplies by the voltage between phase A and phase B ( which is 240v in 99% of the states)

[@josepena4042]

Tomorrow im going to istall mine, my panel is 100 amps for one family house feeding from at meter, i need to install 60 amps brake w wire size 6 ?

[@arvind7522]

This video was great and very informative. I was wondering if you could walk through your design process for dc fast charging, how you size breakers, transformers, etc. My company is starting an eMobility division, and I’m trying to understand how the electrical side of dcfc works

[@RonVF]

Great video! Looking for the sub panel video you mentioned you would make. I have a detached garage with a 100 AMP service off of my main 200 AMP service. Also not sure if my power company in upstate N.Y. has the detail needed to see max usage. Thanks!

[@mhochman]

This was great, My utility happens to use the same data collection as yours, so It was easy to download, mine reads in 1 hour blocks not 15 minutes, so the Kwh/Kw conversion was pretty simple,

[@frizzby-x]

My utility green button data has 1-hour granularity (1 data point per hour). Can it be used to determine Max Demand?

[@gerharddohne2518]

Excellent, concise, and extremely valuable - thank you!

[@thelastgeneration102]

Can you cover the subpanel install and install when you have a Solar Panel subpanel installation soon? Thank you. :)

[@JohnSmith-uz3dt]

Thanks. I’ve been looking something like this. Of course a new ChargePoint Flex will go up to 50 amps. Which means it should be using 62.5 amp breaker. So I wonder if it’s better to go with a slightly undersized 60 amp or slightly oversized 65 amp breaker.

[@NHRunDad]

Oversized. But also check, many chargers will list breaker size, so the 50A listing will actually be a 40A draw. Basically they already derate the power draw from the breaker needed to support their nameplate power rating.

[@CHiTO316]

I have TXU energy and i am only able to export a year report by the day or month. Any way I can use that to make the calculations? i have a 150A breaker in my box

[@Agamerfr0zed]

Great video, very informative and I realize I don't have to replace my current electrical panel.

[@CHiTO316]

My report only shows blocks of hours not 15 minute blocks. The most I’ve seen in an hour is 10kWH. What number should i plot for the calculation?

[@markroath98]

Please excuse my electrical ignorance but I do have one further question. Assuming you are using a home wall connector to charge your EV and an electrical storm passes by, would your EV be in danger of damage because of its connection to the wall connector?

[@keithharrington8715]

Electrical guy here....yes, there is a danger. My understanding is that the wall pack contains information and relays to the car when plugged in. The actual charger is inside the car, meaning that the ac power in your house runs directly into the car before it works to charge your car. Lightning can effect your home system and travel down the wires into your car, just like the TV on your wall and cause damage. There are products out there to lessen or stop these effects. Please contact your local electrical guys with questions. Or call your local building office.

[@dgtv3320]

Hi Mark, yes there's a small risk damage can occur. I would make sure the charger is not plugged in to your car during a storm. I indirectly cover this topic in this video here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pYC0hZlqgd9ksLs I also show a device that helps prevent damage.

[@ming82617]

Very professional video, this is foundation video for install EV charger !

[@CookingWithKillian]

I see in the description you explain that you need data points every 15 minutes. My electric company can't provide that or monthly maximum demand. What I do have is a years worth of usage from every hour in KWH. Can I take that max number divided by 240 times 1000 to get max AMPs?

[@dgtv3320]

Unfortunately using 1hr data invalidates the equation. I plan to release another video for an alternate calculation when 15min data is not available.

[@georgemendez777]

Can you make a video with solar panels and a de rated main breaker please

[@sdexcalibur]

This was the most informative video I have seen in a long long time, thank you

[@dgtv3320]

I appreciate the comment Steve--thank you

[@zackvizeman5329]

Having been Nan avid KZbin DIY video watcher since the inception of YT, I must say that this video has been the MOST comprehensive video I have seen - a sincere and big THNAK YOU for that and keep up the great work. I have a question. As far as I gather, Tesla plug does not use the neutral wire (as your wall charger wiring indicated) - so, what is the purpose of having a aneutral wire in 14-50 plug wiring? Thnaks again!

[@truesing4716]

Great video! What would be the cost to install the wall connector by professional. My main electrical panel and garage are on the opposite end of the house :(

[@erickzts]

That is some really good presentation really appreciate the work that you are doing here you've earned a new subscriber can't wait for any new piece of content that you produce

[@dgtv3320]

I appreciate your nice comment Erick, thank you

[@LarryRichelli]

Great advice but I am moving into a brand new house and have been living in a 37' trailer where my electricity is free.....the question is how do I figure this out. The new home is 1275 Sq. ft and has a 125amp service. I am thinking of putting a 40amp breaker in for my tesla charging.

[@PeterJames143]

wait what you said doesn't match the formula. You said "max demand times 25%" but the formula says "max demand times 125%". which one is correct? thx

[@dgtv3320]

Excuse the confusion. I should have said 125% which is 1.25.

[@Wildoutcats]

This is some detailed information is there any way I can share some charging plans with to Get your opinion??

[@ronb4633]

Thank you for the detailed video. So I noticed you determined that the wire size was 4/0 and aluminum which allows a maximum power of 200 A yet your master breaker in that panel was 225 A which would require MCM 250 wire. The main breaker should be protecting the wire so I would say your panel is not correctly configured.

[@dgtv3320]

Thanks Ron. Regarding my panel, the main breaker size is 200A not 225A. The service wire #4/0 AL is rated for 200A (for residential applications) which matches the main breaker size 200A.

[@petercampbell4220]

The buses are rated 225, if needed you can put a 150, 125, 0r 225a breaker to match service conductor sizes. Depending on the utility and service point definition, the utility can cheap out on the conductors upstream of the meter. That is why they are always outside, if they overheat, then they will upgrade.

[@MyEast123]

I can’t to download the usage for electric, only show day use or hr use how can I do My panel 100amp can I to add 60amp

[@phillipsusi1791]

You almost certainly can't with a 100 amp panel. Also you don't need to. My wife's 2016 model X can only take 40 amps. They used to have an option to upgrade to 80, but I didn't buy it. I don't even see that option any more. My new model 3 only takes 32 amps. And that's more than enough to fully charge by morning, so there's no need for more.

[@korovkin]

this is an awesome video please considering making a higher quality and more engaging one, i am pretty sure you will get lots of views ! :)

[@rasa2789]

Great Video. I have a quick question. @DG TV, Pardon my ignorance, at 8:05 minutes, why are you diving by 240 V ? In the US, the service is 110 V, shouldn't you be diving by 110 ?

[@arnieselectric007]

in the US our service is 220...you have 2 110 hot legs coming into your panel, hence the 2 wires, one on each bus bar...

[@carlodonnell146]

If the main breaker trips instead of the circuit breaker of a circuit, what would it mean?

[@dgtv3320]

Hi Carl, I'm making the assumption your main circuit breaker trips now after installing an EV circuit. I suggest using the tesla app to set the charge setting to 12amps and upping it slowly as needed. ( also assuming you have at least 30A circuit breaker and using #10 copper).

[@travelbydragonfly]

How does a solar panel grid tie system factor in? Also you mention setting your charge current. Does the EV allow you to set maximum charge current? Thanks. I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a model Y Tesla.

[@dvader3263]

Yes, the Tesla allows you to set the maximum and proper charge current, on both the control screen and the Tesla phone app.

[@travelbydragonfly]

@@dvader3263Thanks for the reply. Since getting my Model Y I've learned that you can also schedule when the car charges, so I set it for 12am start time when demand from the house is low. Also I learned that the cheaper Tesla portable charge cable only charges at 32 amps max. I was hoping for better than that since I installed a 50 amp circuit. Still, that's good for about 30 miles per hour, which is enough for my needs.

[@phillipsusi1791]

@@travelbydragonfly My wife's 2016 model X charges at 40 amps. I remember them having an option to buy dual on board chargers to take 80 amps, but don't see that option any more. I recently got a model 3 and it only charges at 32 amps, using the same cable and 14-50 outlet. And yea, as long as it is charged by morning, that's fast enough.

[@dgtv3320]

Randy good question. Solar and battery storage lowers your home electrical demand. Assuming you have your solar/batt and electrical panel on the same utility meter, this lowers demand and this should already be reflected in your utility data. This being said you can follow the same steps outlined in this video. Congrats on your new Tesla!

[@johnfitbyfaithnet]

Great information and presentation thank you for sharing this important information

[@johnfitbyfaithnet]

I'm a new sub, impressed with your Tesla experience. Do you know if they are going back with solar on all of the superchargers?

[@HMeshmesh]

Excellent video. I looked at my last two years data. I found that I had "one" hour where the usage reach 10.7 kWh. All other entries are showing Max around 7.5 KWH. My panel is a 100 AMP. it means that I cannot use a 60AMP breaker (because of this one entry) and I have to go down to 50 AMP. Correct?

[@JZ-oz5tv]

NEC 220.82(B) and (C) has the detail how to calculate dwelling unit service load. Use 240V * rating of the panel and subtract the existing VA, that is the Max volt-ampere in remaining, take this number divide 240V or 120V depending either 2 pole or single pole breaker, now you have the Max current you can have from existing panel.

[@dipperq]

This is a professional explanation. the other EV charger Installation guide are all BS

[@zeerizvi]

Man ! this is one of the best and simple explanations have ever seen . awesome job and thanks !!

[@sdexcalibur]

We just moved in and only have a few months worth of data but they are for whole months. The largest usage per month is 2358 KWH for 29 days . We have a 200 Amp breaker box that is pretty full. I need to install a double tap to free up one space for the double pole breaker. The dryers are Gas only, one dishwasher we don't use often, we do have a pool heat pump. We do have a generator interlock which took up 2 spots in the panel. I know this isn't enough info but any guidance. Thank you for your content

[@dgtv3320]

Steve I would consider reaching out to your utility 1) ask if they can provide max demand for each month, if they cant 2) ask to provide data in smaller time intervals, ideally no more than 1 hour; you'll need at least 2 empty slots for a 2-pole breaker. If your panel is completely full, might consider installing a small sub panel. Let me know what your utility says.

[@sdexcalibur]

@@dgtv3320 No go on the data, My thoughts is to only charge after 9pm.This way I know nothing else is running. I ordered a 60 amp breaker but I'm seriously thinking of just going 40 Amp to be safe, Running 6 AWG THHN wire. The run from the box to the charger is about 10'

[@jasonrolon7010]

My panel can handle a 60 amp breaker for EV charger. Is there a specific breaker for it to handle a constant load during a charge?

[@dgtv3320]

Nothing specific. Standard 60A 2-pole breaker will do it. Make sure it is NON-GFCI type.

[@jasonrolon7010]

@@dgtv3320 Thank you!

[@phillipsusi1791]

Note that the car may not be able to take that much current. My wife's 2016 model X can only take 40 amps. They had an option to upgrade it to 80 amps, but I don't even see that option on Tesla's web site any more. My new model 3 can only take 32 amps.

[@JeanPierreWhite]

What's the part number for the Dryer combination breaker/SPD? I can't find anything quite like that online but is ideal for the panel my Daughter has.

[@dgtv3320]

SPD/Breaker I have is made by Eaton model CH250SUR. Eaton makes two models 30A (CH230SUR) & 50A (CH250SUR). FYI: These units will only fit inside an Eaton electrical panel that accept 'CH' type breakers.

[@lesterwyborny7990]

Excellent review of how to assess your home demand for installing an EV charger. There is, however, one more piece which is not covered in this overview, which is what size wire you need to install to the charger. I purchased and installed some 8 guage romex wire thinking that it could handle 50 amps, but apparently only thhn 8 guage wire can handle 50 amps, but 8 guage romex wire is only capable of 40 amps. Thus, I presume that I can use that 8 guage romex wire with a 50 amp circuit breaker and limit the charger to 40 amps. If I knew this in advance, I would have installed 6 guage romex wire instead, but running new wire is challenging so I will start with this wire I ran and consider changing it out if I find I would want more capacity later on.

[@dgtv3320]

I agree. I should have covered wire size; I didn't in this video but I cover it in 2 other videos. Regarding your wire install Here's my minimum wire size design guide: (COPPER American Wire Gauge AWG) 30A circuit breaker = #10 with #10 ground 40A circuit breaker = #8 with #10 ground 50A circuit breaker = #6 with #10 ground 60A circuit breaker = #4 with #10 ground For larger feeder runs (100ft+) wires need to be upsized to compensate for voltage drop.

[@weaesq]

Good idea on checking the service wires and their max loading. But Table 310.12 may not be exactly accurate if there are high temperatures involved or different conductors are used. Ambient temperature would be considered to derate the amperage. Of course, one would assume that was done correctly in the first place with the amperage of the main breaker, but maybe it was not. If the house is old, one could see how the service feed wires were calculated to an old code standard..

[@jnicharmy89]

Braided or solid wire with the #6?

[@dgtv3320]

Stranded wire is easier to pull and typically less expensive For this reason it is preferred

[@woodysranch2690]

I read through all the comments and you mention a follow up video on how to deal with hourly data vs every 15 min. I dont see that video. Have you published it yet, or if I missed it can you please list the video name?

[@FluffyTheGryphon]

My power company breaks it down by daily average per month. Which feels useless to me.

[@semihyilmaz4699]

My main circuit braker is 100A. When I do the calculations you mentioned, it exceeds 100A (Comes up to 110A). Can I just replace the main braker with 200A, and would it be safe after that?

[@dgtv3320]

Semih, you cannot do that. Up sizing the breaker would involve up-sizing your electrical panel and service wires. And it would require a utility shut off. This type of work is only allowed to by done by a licensed electrician. For a 100A main circuit breaker & panel, the biggest limiting factor is the size of your existing service wires. The older your home, the smaller your service wires will be. As I mentioned at the end of the video, you cannot exceed the rating of your existing service wires. Please reach out to a local electrician to help you determine your best path forward.

[@semihyilmaz4699]

@@dgtv3320 Thank you very much.

[@angelcarrion2042]

Awesome description. Thank you very much!

[@rkgsd]

Does you house also have a subpanel inside the house (like in a bedroom or closet)? Mine does in addition to a subpanel outside next to the main. I'm in the process of upgrading to a 200 amp main and I'm considering eliminating the subpanels. The electrician would turn the old subpanels into junction boxes.

[@dgtv3320]

I have a main panel on the side of the house and a sub panel in the garage. If you have a smaller sub panel right next to your main panel, consolidating to one larger 200A panel could be a good idea. If you have additional sub panels throughout the house, no need to eliminate sub panels if they are still in good condition. If they are very old and need replacement, doesn't hurt to ask for a quote to replace it (panel + feeder). You never know when you need a new circuit! Without my garage sub panel, I would have needed about 150+ linear feet of #4 copper to install the EV charger in the garage. Not only would the EV charger install be a pain in the ass (routing around the house), the install costs goes exponential.

[@rkgsd]

@@dgtv3320 Thanks so much for your detailed reply! Makes logical sense. I will indeed request a second quote to replace the closet subpanel instead of elimination. Yes it's a rather ancient 60's era Square D panel, but then again, the ones outside are equally ancient GE panels.

[@mattg8294]

I am currently running into this. I have a NEMA 50 plug and since the plug is only rated for 50amps I will pair it with a 50amp breaker. If I got with a mounted charger I will no doubt go with wire that supports a much larger amount. I also have the main panel on the rear of my house next to my pedestal but it is simply an on off type situation. It goes inside to a 200amp breaker panel which then feeds a 60amp panel in my garage. I will be changing out the panel on the rear of the house with a panel with two 200amp breakers as my meter is rated for 320/400. I just need to make sure the wire in my meter base going to the box can handle that. Not a big deal. I can technically pull the meter if I need to cut off the power to that. I have been told by the power company tech that corporate will frown upon it but as long as I am not tampering with anything it isnt a problem for me to call them and have someone put a new lock on it. IE this happens here frequently when people break into places they pull the meter. I need to look at the disconnect box again because I might be able to just use that and then wire a panel into that. I just need to look at it again.

[@NO_OPEC_NO_PROBLEM]

Great video. So if I have a 200A service, does this mean I can pull 200A continuous? Or only 160A continuous? Building a new house with 5 EVs to charge on 200A service. So there will be some dynamic sharing going on. Tesla HPWC (Gen3) should allow me to program this to keep all my NACS and CCS vehicles happy.

[@markroath98]

If an electrician, in installing your wall connector, says it will handle a charge setting of 48, does it make any sense to lower the charge setting? If so, what issues are presented in lowering the charge setting? Additionally, in using a wall connector to connect to an EV, does one need to unroll the wall connector cord when it is in use?

[@keithharrington8715]

I am an electrical guy, not an engineer. An engineer would be better equipped to describe how different charge rates impact your car's battery. This might mean a 30 amp charge gives your battery more useful life. From an electrical standpoint, YES! As low as you can. Wires have some small resistance to them making them like a plug in electrical heater. The wire insulation is designed to handle specific levels, however, bad connections or improper plug ins can be a source of specific heat generation spots. Over time, any flaw or added heat will damage the insulation and cause failure. This may take years and years. However, the lower you can keep the current, the less likely any problems. Think of it like driving a Ferrari on down town streets....stay in first gear and no speeding tickets....shift into high and problems. On a 40 amp setting your car might charge in 7 hours, but, if you charge for 30 amps at 10 hours... It is safer for your house/wiring. Plug in at 6 pm and unplug at 6 am and an even lower rate can get your car where you need.

[@dvader3263]

Our EV set at 40 amp charging on a 50 amp breaker, charges back at 41 to 43 miles each hour. Mostly the screen says 42 miles each hour. The vehicle dashboard reading is usually 240 to 244 volts.

[@phillipsusi1791]

@@keithharrington8715 I have noticed that when charging my Teslas at lower current, it is less efficient. As in more kWh goes into charging than kWh spent driving when you charge at lower rates. Apparently this is because having the car powered up while charging burns a few hundred watts, so it's better to finish charging sooner so it can power back down.

[@keithharrington8715]

@phillipsusi1791 thank you. Did not know that. I guess there is a heater involved with charging, if I understand it all correctly.

[@phillipsusi1791]

@@keithharrington8715 Well there isn't supposed to be but the computer seems to be able to burn a surprising amount of power. It also does so when sentry mode is enabled.

[@qosmio2140]

Since you worked for Tesla doing the stations. How hard would it be to build one in Rosarito, Mx

[@Goodbrod]

But which gauge wire? One rated for 60a in your case?

[@dgtv3320]

Here's my minimum wire size design guide: (COPPER American Wire Gauge AWG) 30A circuit breaker = #10 with #10 ground 40A circuit breaker = #8 with #10 ground 50A circuit breaker = #6 with #10 ground 60A circuit breaker = #4 with #10 ground For larger feeder runs (100ft+) wires need to be upsized to compensate for voltage drop.

[@Goodbrod]

Thank you! Now I have to see if hard wiring needs a neutral! 8/2 or 8/3!@@dgtv3320

[@dgtv3320]

No neutral required. I share a bunch of install details in these two videos: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hYHGapJtrM-WjK8 kzbin.info/www/bejne/ipbRdadqasx7lZY

[@Goodbrod]

@@dgtv3320 Thank you! I will watch.Mine will be Mopar because it's from the dealer, but I imagine its the same, though I will wait until I get it to buy cables! Thank you for the info!

[@nunads]

Awesome video! Extremely informative -- can now talk to the electrician with a bit more knowledge.

[@dgtv3320]

Great to hear!

[@keithpomella9953]

Your information is highly technical and a bit helpful, but simply 48 Amps on a 60 amp breaker is 80% of the load this will put a lot of pressure on that circuit breaker which in my experience the breaker life will be diminished?

[@willshakespeare38]

Excellent video & very helpful - 1 question. I have 2 200 amp main panels , if I download data from electric company it would be the max load between both the panels right ? Is there a way of calculating for individual panel ?

[@ChrisLow-k6n]

I like the step by step calculations

[@alp3781]

Very good video. if anyone is handy enough and follow the code and watching so many videos here, it can be done very easily. This is NOT for all to install. Having said that, if you already installing one, go for the max AMPS you can considering your current panel max in. Moreover, I would avoid using plugs/outlet, if possible. These 2 things are a weak link and can cause many issues. After all, heavy AMPS are running for hours via these lines and they generate heat. HARDWIRED is the way to go.

[@Da-King-of-Swing]

When you say you would avoid using plugs/outlets are you referring to a mobile connector and Nema 1450 outlet? 🤔

[@alp3781]

@@Da-King-of-Swing I am referring to the NEMA outlets/plugs. Look, they will hold fine, but, why creating a weak link, if can be avoided. Even when doing hardwire, you need to makes sure all terminal screws are tight on these #6 or 8 (AMPS and length of wire using). Many video here on how to......!

[@jonquigley1081]

This was fantastic - only thing I don't quite get is why voltage basis is 240V and not 120V. Is this because the breaker box is two 120's?

[@dgtv3320]

The utility data is in terms of the voltage between phase A and phase B. For the majority of America that is 240v. Some new developments (apartments/condos) it can be 208v. I hope this helps.

[@luisbetog]

Is the wire need to have a conduit even inside of the wall?

[@dgtv3320]

For residential installations technically no; i still recommend installing conduit. For commercial installations, conduit is required.