How To Install A 240V Outlet In Garage - EV Car Charger, Welder, And Electric Range (Hubbell 14 50)

[@TheExcellentLaborer]

Hey! I covered A LOT of information in this video, so I placed timestamps below to help you navigate this video. Also, you can join the channel using this link kzbin.info/door/UJXaEduMHGB3Iap3DusmAAjoin . We would love to have you as member! NEMA Outlets Explained 00:28 240 Volt Supplies 04:14 6/3 Wire Rough In 06:53 Metal Electrical Box Installation 08:13 NEMA 14-50 Outlet Options 11:10 240V Outlet Installation 14:45 Connecting 6/3 Wire To Panel 21:04 50 AMP Breaker Installation 24:37 240V EV Car Charging 27:38

[@joeboxter3635]

Which one is needed for split air heat pump that says it needs 220V? Eg LG?

[@scottburchfield8272]

Can I use a 2/0 2/0 2/0 wire to run a range or stove

[@solarkbike8]

Where is the Ground Fault protection ?

[@markmonroe9502]

Excellent explanation! My electrician installed the NEMA 14-50 running alongside the gas line in my garage. Is that safe and according to code?

[@1963mdg]

Great informative video

[@darwood6861]

Great video. One of the best I've seen. Just call it 240v. In 38 years I've never measured 110v or 220v. All voltage is nominal from the power company, but they have been supplying higher voltages for my entire life

[@Resist4]

Exactly! I'm tired of people still using the terms 110v/220v, when it doesn't exist and hasn't for a whole lot of decades.

[@thehvachacker]

I see often 208v some places I see 244v. All these Ev charges just made homes energy hogs. At least middle of hot summer days hopefully these power hog chargers are not running. Along with all the central ac systems

[@stompylee]

The detail here is like the blueprint to do this for the average DIY homeowner that’s KZbin certified like me🎉. Thank you!!

[@JJ-qs5zp]

As a self-proclaimed KZbin electrician 😥, that's the 1st time I've heard about wiggling stranded wire then re-torquing the screws. Thanks for that! I've wired a hot tub, pool heat pump and an EV charger. After seeing this video, I'm definitely going back to verify those screw torques. I also originally cheaped out and installed the Levitron 14-50 receptacle. I had a 2nd EV charging cable available which I solely used for this plug thinking as I won't be unplugging/re-plugging the charger daily it should be fine. However, the cheaper quality receptacle got significantly hotter when charging at 32A, so I'd end up reducing the current to prevent over-heating. Bought the Hubbell receptacle soon afterwards and haven't had the same issue again. Great detailed video. Cheers!

[@Tom-mu7zy]

Good for you for grounding the outlet box. Too many KZbin experts fail to do that.

[@TheExcellentLaborer]

I always ground my metal boxes. Thanks!

[@edgecomber]

Yes, but he ran the wirec ounterclockwise around the screw. Much more likely to work loose.

[@benjaminlee8102]

This is by far the BEST video I've ever seen about EV charger and breaker installation. Thank you !

[@alexanderarias5254]

Thank you for this video!!! I just installed my 240v to charge my truck and saved tons of money!

[@earthquakepilot2114]

Only one comment, probably just overlooking but when you looped the ground wire to the green screw terminal in the box, you did it counter clockwise. All good electricians know it goes clockwise to get the best grip/connection and less likely to work loose over the years. Good video thanks

[@svenska572]

Yes. Overall great video but speaking as an intermediate DIYer myself, I noticed the same thing.

[@brianerock]

A VERY CLEAR demonstration video! Good job! The only omission, however, is that the 2-pole breaker MUST be a GFCI-type breaker per NEC® 210.8(A)(2) and 625.22. Any personnel protection against ground faults internal to the EVSE protects SOLELY the EVSE OUTPUT CORD to the EV but NOT the EVSE INPUT CORD from the NEMA 14-50R receptacle to the EVSE. (Technically that GFCI-type breaker would eliminate the need for refund GFCI protection integral to the EVSE UNLESS the EVSE performs power conversion [nearly all DO NOT convert]). - Brian Rock, Hubbell Incorporated, I also serve as a CMP-2 and a CMP-15 Member but this is strictly my own position (not NEMA’s and not NFPA’s) I also am one of the 7 co-authors of the original (1996) NEC® Article 625 for Electrical Power Research Institute (EPRI).

[@adamlloy2807]

Brian, I'm in the middle of wiring my detached garage right now, and am having some trouble figuring this one out. It seems that the manufacturer specifies NOT to use a GFCI outlet for an EVSE 40 amp charger (50 amp breaker), and that the EVSE has GFCI built in. That said, I note your comment above regarding input/output. My issue here is that these chargers are known to trip a GFCI outlet or breaker, much like a tredmill does. What is the work around here in order to have a reliable appliance and meet code? My charger is corded - specifically a JuiceBox Pro 40 model and I id wire it into a external waterproof housing containing the NEMA 14-50. For that matter - any recommendation for wiring in a treadmill in a detached garage as well? I plan to dedicate an outlet for this and wiring it straight to the panel on a non-GFCI/AFCI breaker. Any suggestions?

[@MasterTheNEC]

Might also want to inform him that the item in his hand is a device, not an outlet. The device in this case is a receptacle, not an outlet, which is installed in an outlet box.

[@moneth08able]

Hello so do we need a GFCi?​@@adamlloy2807

[@mathehack1]

​@@adamlloy2807the recommended work around is typically to wire the charger directly to the circuit without the nema outlet. That way you're just using a regular circuit breaker since the charger has one built in.

[@802Garage]

I have watched A LOT of these tutorials and done A TON of research into the actual code provisions pertaining to 240V receptacle installs. This is the first video I can point to that is essentially mistake and code violation free. The only exception being GFCI protection, but we all understand why you didn't go that route, hahaha. Awesome job! Will be my go to video to share with others looking for good info.

[@TheExcellentLaborer]

I always try to make my videos as accurate as possible. I’m glad you enjoyed this installation. Thanks for watching!

[@BTW...]

Your wrong about the "mistake free" content here.

[@802Garage]

@@BTW... Point out the mistake then or your comment is completely worthless.

[@deang5622]

Clearly it is more than just meeting code. See my post on the use of the knife to strip the wires.

[@802Garage]

@@deang5622 I'm not going to go through the entire comments section to find your specific post. If your biggest issue with this video is how he strips off the wire sheathing, I rest my case. You'd be friggin' amazed to see how many electricians do it. 99% of DIY people watching this video are not going to have Romex strippers. This is one of the best and most complete videos on the topic for sure. You can find something wrong with anything if you try hard enough. Nobody is going to have every single piece of information perfect and give every piece of advice possible.

[@denniskalivoda]

Young man you did a great job explaining step by step on every step to install a 240 outlet.

[@TheExcellentLaborer]

@@denniskalivoda Thank you I appreciate that. I hope it helps!

[@SunofYork]

@@TheExcellentLaborer I rewired all my 240volt house in England (they have ring circuits), and the inspector did a 32 point check list and said I failed on one point..the insulation on one ground wire (they have that).... I have been in the US since 2007 and NOW I understand how a 240volt spur (English terminology)n is done... Hate electric cars so I won't be doing one ...lol... But I LOVE acquiring knowledge. This morning I learned how to run my furnace off a car battery. Trouble is the power never goes down in Wisconsin (12 years so far). I love looking for solutions to non existent problems ! VERY CLEAR INSTRUCTIONS..Great vid..

[@ppomm]

Another video where you show what an excellent instructor you are Jost. Lots of detail, clear explanations but yet you keep it moving. I will say that in the elec business a 50A range outlet is x dollars but if you say it''s for an EV it always seems to be 2x dollars lol. Good explanation of why an industrial grade plug is worth the extra money. Thanks for sharing your skills and knowledge!

[@AdamS-lh2ug]

I’ll give him credit for that. It’s worth the extra money for quality plugs.

[@ReviewsAndHowTos]

Dude, fantastic video! I've probably watched a half dozen vids in preparation for this install and yours is the most thorough, by far. Also, appreciate all of the product links.

[@amandaestremera4908]

Fantastic video. I wanted to know more about the process to be informed before electricians come to do an bid on installing 240V in our carport and this was perfect!

[@MullenMindfulness]

Fantastic video!! I now know that I can install a 240v outlet in my garage to charge my EV. Plus, since I live in a colder climate, having the 240v should allow me to use a more robust space heater. Thanks for putting this on KZbin.

[@glengeramifar7302]

Such an informative video. Anyone can try to teach but not everyone has the art and skill to transfer the information like you and captivate the audience. I congratulate you for your talent and you skill both in electrical and demonstration of your knowledge. Wish you lots of success.

[@joepacheco7979]

I think this was the clearest, well explained video I've ever seen on KZbin. Keep it up. Thanks!

[@PeteTims]

I just want to caution everyone that using NM cable for this circuit limits you to the 60 degree column for Ampacity (NEC 334.80), that's 55A here. Furthermore, maximum current based on a continuous load should be no more than 40A's on this circuit since 125% x 40 = 50A. Therefore, never plug a 48A smart charger into this receptacle as some homeowners down the road may do and perhaps label the receptacle to say 40A MAX if you are going to use these 32A mobile charging cords. Note: even if you use 6AWG THHN rated at 90 degrees, your receptacle can only be used for less than 50 Amps. For me personally, I don't even install receptacles anymore for EV's, as they were just never designed for these high and continuous loads over periods of 8 hours or more. Also consider the constant unplugging and plugging in at the receptacle; your terminals will be lose in no time with a chance for arcing and a fire very high. Buy a hardwired smart charger instead and have it installed by a licensed and insured professional!

[@curtisbme]

"Also consider the constant unplugging and plugging in at the receptacle" Good guidance however this part wouldn't happen as the charger would get plugged into the outlet and left there. No different than a dryer or other appliance.

[@JM-iz3fr]

The ev chargers are 240 volt, no neutral necessary. They also are required to be gfci protected

[@javiergiraldez9374]

That it’s correct. I prefers THHN and a raceway EMT.

[@Gunter_Custom]

If you are charging a EV with that Recepticle .. the plug should not be plugged and unplugged.. it should just be plugged. . You plug and unplug at the vehicle 😂😂😂

[@TrendyStone]

You are correct. Technically you should set your Tesla Wall Charge (or whatever you use) to charge at 40 amps (or 44amps if you have that option, which I have with my two Tesla wall connectors in power sharing mode. 44A x 125% = 55 Amps. That's where I'm set because I made the mistake of running 6 gage Romex and now the basement if finished and it would be a nightmare to run #4 or #6 THHN. But I'm happy at 44 amps.

[@AdamS-lh2ug]

Don’t wrap your ground counter-clockwise like he did in this video. If you watch closely as he tightens the ground screw it pushes the wire out of the screw. ALWAYS go clockwise when you wrap your wires. This goes for receptacles, and literally everything you wire.

[@crisestrada9341]

Very true, I was about to say something about that as well.

[@reginaldnoe5613]

Yep.... one of the first things pointed out to me when first learning to wire recepticles

[@802Garage]

If you noticed, it's a loop, not a hook. Therefore, it's "wrapped" in both directions. Even if he wrapped it the other way to make the loop, it would be the same U shape around the ground screw. Think about the physics. What he did is just fine. The only difference is which side of the loop gets wound tighter and which side gets loosened slightly. You could argue it's slightly better to have the length going to the receptacle tighter because it's going to get moved around, but in practice it will likely have the same impact either way.

[@josephphillips1777]

Or use the pre-made ground tail and "pigtail" your grounds together

[@BTW...]

@@802Garage Bullshit. As the faster tightens it naturally unwinds the loop. Any movement has the wire detach.The terminal is of such poor design, having no means of restraining wire moving from under the fastener. Every trade qualified professional electrician knows this... yet you think it's all A-OK.

[@joshuabowen316]

Dude you just saved/made me thousands of dollars you are the MAN.

[@TheExcellentLaborer]

Awesome! I’m glad I can help. Good luck with the rest of your projects!

[@booppert5897]

Save money now, and pay for the house fire later with voided insurance for unlicensed work.

[@joshuabowen316]

@@booppert5897 got a permit and inspection dumbass 😘 😘

[@xtraspecialj]

​@@booppert5897honest question, but as long as you follow code, do you really have to pay a licensed technician to do this? I understand that you should, but as long as everything is done correctly, it would still be uninsured?

[@jtfoog5220]

@@booppert5897such a coward lol

[@TrendyStone]

Prettle good video. I installed a sub panel in my garage, a NEMA 14-50 (the high quality one) and two Tesla Wall Connectors which share a 60 amp breaker and power-share, which is a fantastic Tesla feature. If one car is charging you get 48 amps and if you charge two cars you get 24 amps until one of them finishes and then it jumps back to 48 amps (or whatever you've set the charger to). Powersharing is a great Tesla feature for those that have more than one car and perhaps don't have the ability to run two dedicated sets of wires from the main panel.

[@JohnMark1313]

If you are using the NEMA 14-50 outlet, even for two Wall Connectors, the max breaker needs to be 50.

[@rand49er]

Excellent job. And no stupid music. Thanks.

[@josephleyva7471]

I really appreciate how thorough you describe each step. Your a great instructor. Just what I needed. Shalom

[@johndernberger1961]

Nice job. In reference to the outlet placement for stoves, I recommend reviewing the stove install instructions. There is normally a diagram for the placement for the outlet. I really enjoy your channel.

[@KevinCoop1]

Excellent video and explanations. Technically you installed a 120/240 volt outlet. For those that do not want to spend $90 for the receptacle, Bryant (owned by Hubbell) same exact device is approximately half price. Why cheaper? If Hubbell can get named in the specifications for a large project, then higher profit. They bought Bridgeport out in 1991 which makes the Bryant devices. Never use cheap receptacles for car chargers. They overheat.

[@LuLu_World]

they did not buy bridgeport. bryant was located in bpt ct

[@dustenskinner8404]

You make great videos man, highly informative and easy to understand. Greatly appreciate you doing the work and teaching the rest of us. Keep up the great work bro 👍🏻

[@pauljanssen7594]

On that ground wire I usually bend it in a u-shaped so there's more surface, and that 75 inch pounds. Which calculates into 6 foot pounds.

[@Oliver-to7gu]

You do an excellent job in presenting the material. Thanks.

[@R1824]

Josh you are awesome, I love watching your videos even though some of the things I don’t need but still love to watch how you do it and very interesting. However, I am working on my second bathroom and going step by step how you do it. I wish I had your knowledge. Thank you

[@samueltucker5375]

Your teaching is outstanding .

[@TheExcellentLaborer]

Thank you so much. I appreciate that!

[@greg.montelione]

Excellent video instruction of how to rough-in and install a 240 v outlet. This was extremely thorough and very concise. I feel confident that I could now undertake this work on my own. The only two questions I still have are; 1). What size mudring should be used depending on the thickness of the drywall? and 2). Why not use a two gang box to eliminate the need for the mudring? I think part of the answer is what you said about the mudring providing more room in the ox. I get that there is only one device and not two switches or outlets that would require a two gang box but the two gang has the four ears or tabs you'd need to secure the device to the box. Is this just a preference thing or is there another reason for this? These are sincere questions. I'm not being critical. I know enough to be dangerous and just like to have all of the information before undertaking work. Either way, I'm going to follow your lead thinking that if it's good for your house... then, it's good for mine. I'm asking in the event you respond before I've started / completed the work. Thanks in advance and all the best to you. Keep up the good work. 👍

[@AdamS-lh2ug]

Also, if you have side cutters or really your strippers, you can score the romex and rip it without damaging the wires, you get a much cleaner look in your panel. Strip your wires before going into the panel.

[@ScotianCanadien]

Production quality on your videos, your instruction, your concise communication and your overall knowledge are all very impressive. I'm going for a career change at 32, and have been watching all of your electrical videos ahead of getting an apprenticeship. Thanks a ton for these

[@semmunn8322]

thanks for not having a loud music on the background

[@jeeperusa4481]

You video he best one I have watched these days for installing tesla mobile charger from outlet to breaker with materials parameters, great jobs!

[@Emmagentle]

Thanks!

[@TheExcellentLaborer]

You are welcome! Thank you so much for your support!

[@Jeff-m5x3j]

20:32 It makes sense to use the cheaper outlet for a range because generally you plug a range in once and leave it plugged in except for and occasional removal or replacement of a stove. The EV charger outlet has much more use and plugging and un-plugging of the charger cable over the years. That is where the cheaper outlet will wear out easier over time and potentially become a fire hazard.

[@Bartolobot]

man, you really showin'um how it's done. There only two types of "how to" videos that work. This is one way and the ones where they let the pictures do the talking. So, if you're going to talk and explain how to do something do it like The Excellent Laborer. strait to the point clear good explanation and white board with the actual examples of necessary materials. I got exactly what I was looking for with one video. cool thanks. I subscribed.

[@Bartolobot]

ohh I just recently took delivery of my Cyberbeast truck and ill be installing the wall charger myself . Not to worry mate this wouldn't be my first rodeo I put in a new main panel and meter with main service entrence including a new 240v 50A line for a range in my kitchen. I'm not an electrician but I know what im doing. I'd never attempt a project if im not sure i can do it.

[@TM-td7vk]

Your description should had said how to Install a 120/240 EV Charging circuit. In most units the neutral Is not needed but good to have for future use.

[@namkablam]

10:25 - you should be looping the ground wire around the screw in a clockwise direction so as you tighten the screw, the wire tightens around the screw. You wrapped it around counter-clockwise and as you tightened the screw, you can see the wire loosening around the screw.

[@chumanji9]

So glad you mention industial grade plugs. For EV charging it is a must.

[@lakorai2]

They now make EV Grade outlets that have an EV charge logo on them. Makes it easy for the inspector to approve the job.

[@lakorai2]

In addition if this outlet was installed outside, say on an outside wall outside of the garage, you will need a Weather Resistant version of the same plug. Also don't forget that the NEC now requires GFCI breakers on all 240 outlets in a garage now.

[@royquiroz3359]

Thanks!

[@TheExcellentLaborer]

Thank you so much that means a lot to me! I hope my videos are helpful for you. Take care!

[@ericfraser7543]

13:30 Like you said not all NEMA 14-50 outlets are the same, I would add that the duty cycle of an EV charger can be drawing 50 amps continuously where a standard range outlet was designed to handle the intermittent duty cycle of a range.

[@TheExcellentLaborer]

Yes, good point! The long term continuous draw justifies having an industrial grade outlet versus a range outlet. Thanks for your input!

[@Lou-jf4rl]

I installed mine the same way with the same receptical concerns. I also under sized my load to 40 amps because I was concerned about heat created by impedence with such a continuous draw over a 2-3 hour period. I used romex 6/3 due to electrical code but I think that other cables may be better at heat dissipation.

[@hitendraverma443]

Thank you for such a detailed and easy-to-follow DIY tutorial. I wanted to mention that Home Depot now sells a heavy-duty Leviton 14-50 explicitly made for EV use (it has the green EV logo). By the way, can you link the torque screwdriver you are using? I can only find one that goes up to 70 in-lbs. Thanks in advance.

[@garyt534]

Just to be clear, Torque specs are in inch pounds not foot lbs. Also, it's best practice to use a proper wire stripper instead of a razor blade, that way you won't risk nicking the conductor with the razor blade.

[@davidhall3747]

As an Automotive Technician I noticed that mistake too. Inch pounds and Foot pounds are two different tightening specifications.

[@paulcrumley9756]

Newton-meters, too. And in my industry (aviation), there are approved wire strippers that must be used to avoid the likelihood of a violation. I'm surprised how many youtube experts use what would be unapproved tools to strip and crimp wires. Those tools are not excessively expensive, and with them it's almost impossible to harm the wiring or make a connection that is subject to loosening and arcing/catching fire. . .if it's good for a Boeing it's great for my house and vehicle.

[@Resist4]

I thought that was weird too, coming from an electrician. No way you can get 75 foot pounds of torque with torque screwdriver.

[@paulcrumley9756]

@@Resist4 he didn't say "Foot" or "Inch," just "Pounds," which is meaningless measuring torque. However, given that size torque driver, I'd assume it's an inch-lb device.

[@Resist4]

@@paulcrumley9756 True, but since this was a how to video he should have not just said pounds.

[@yorkie1792]

Thx. 29:49 was very helpful with all the supplies needed. No sure of the length of the 6'3 wire that I need

[@AntonioRuiz-xw4bw]

Hey this is a great video, I what to install the 240V outlet outside of the garage with the 6/3. the distance from the breaker to the outlet will be about 6.5 feet, can I use PVC conduit for this install?

[@cfrcrd5759]

I thought the video was well done. You were precise and step by step. Sure, you always wrap a wire the way the screw screws in and I usually use a wire stripper in stead of a utility knife to strip the casing but still a well done video. Thanks.

[@anthonyesparsen9453]

Don't forget follow local NEC codes where gfci and arcfault protection may be required

[@ShamelessHellions]

For EV supply equipment, direct wire is the way to go. Much less possibility of the equipment melting down vs the cord and plug method. Also, you would avoid an unnecessary expense of the outlet. The cheap leviton outlets are fine for a range, but are a legit fire hazard on EVSE. The wire used for direct wire will save some $$ as well. EVSE use 2 wire with ground and don’t require a neutral. I do like how this installer used a torque screwdriver. Properly torquing the terminals are important for every install (just look at manufacturers instructions), but especially when there is a significant current draw.

[@novamaggart3251]

Excellent video. Would you mind sharing which torque screwdriver you used in this video? I did not see it mentioned in the list of tools used in this video. Thank you. Also, did you really torque the screws to 75 in-lbs?

[@TheExcellentLaborer]

Thank you! I’m not sure the exact brand of the screwdriver because I borrowed it from a friend for this install. I had the dial pass 70 to get the torque which should be around 75 lbs. I hope that helps!

[@dankelley9361]

Josh, excellent descriptive YT video on installing a 50 amp outlet for a EV charger. I would let the viewers know that the 6 nomenclature on the 6-3 wire stands for the AWG or gauge of wire needed to withstand the 50 amp current draw.

[@TheExcellentLaborer]

Thanks a lot, Dan! I did explain what AWG was in my last video. You’re right, I would have not heard to mention it again. Thanks for watching!

[@imranAli-du1jq]

Great video man. love your work and teaching style

[@TheExcellentLaborer]

Thank you! I enjoy making KZbin videos and helping people. Stay tuned for more!

[@vbarbee1]

I'm by no means an electrician, but have Don electrical work and taught by some great electricians. I was always taught when tightening wires against a box to route the wire in the same direction the wire tightens. That way the screw doesn't push the wire out, it draws it in. Use wire strippers not knives especially razor blades. When tightening lugs, tighten, back of, tighten, back off then torque. Also anytime adding new wire to a panel to kill main power. The person who taught me had a saying. The day you get complacent is the day you will get hurt or killed.

[@darrendolphdragos9752]

" I was always taught when tightening wires against a box to route the wire in the same direction the wire tightens" - When the wire is completely looped IE: out of cable, around screw, then into receptacle... it doesn't matter. Looping clockwise only matters on an open ended (cut) "hook" loop of wire.

[@mikemm60]

or get the proper PPE, tho turning off breaker is cheaper.

[@dunckeroo1987]

For a range, it is probably better to install under 8 inches to accommodate for standard or short drawer space -- that is the space behind the drawer that provides space for the plug. You might want to face the ground towards left or right -- some cords have the ground up and some have the ground down, and you want the loop to slide back in easy.

[@jayjohns5653]

The ground wire should be wrapped around the ground screw clockwise so it gets pulled in when you tighten it rather than squished out. When you strip wires with a knife the blade must be more parallel the the wire to come in a shallow angle so you don't nick the wire which is like scoring a piece of glass. The wire will break at the nick if it is subjected to constant vibration like from a motor.

[@markjewett9566]

Fantastic! Just what I needed! Awesome Job explaining!!! Highly recommended!!!

[@philoso377]

Nice video and presentation. Does GFCI garage outlet code applicable in your area?

[@zforce800]

How big of a breaker would I need for my garage installing one plug from house to garage and what size of wiring would I use

[@anthonyesparsen9453]

Don't bypass your NEC requirements for new 220 install requirements like GFCI/arc fault per 218.8,210.12

[@DerekMo100]

this is the best video for instalingl nema 14-50

[@enoch_likeit]

What a great instruction with product details & links on the description. Ty!!

[@anthonyesparsen9453]

Most of these new 220 outlets require gfci and maybe afci protection per nec

[@Axelthetaxman]

how many times are you going to repeat yourself?

[@rontiemens2553]

Excellent presentation by the Excellent Laborer!

[@TheExcellentLaborer]

Thank you so much! I’ll try to make all of my videos, helpful and useful. I appreciate you watching.

[@kmenzel5020]

Brilliant! Great information, and the clarity of the instructions is superb. Thank you for this video!!!!

[@jaykid007]

What size torque bit did you use on that torque wrench at 75 in lbs?

[@ruthroglic-kehoe5534]

You were very thorough and detailed on all steps. Thank you so much.👍

[@arsmartins]

What a great set of instructional videos. Very easy to follow.

[@TheExcellentLaborer]

I make all of my videos straight to the point and step-by-step. I’m glad you found them helpful. Good luck with your project!

[@samdang5246]

Great job. And no stupid music. Thanks.

[@DitNg516]

Should we use a 40-amp single-pole breaker or a double-pole 20-amp breaker? What wire size should we use for both situations? Thank you

[@rorm12]

Thank you for the great video! I just have a concern about the Leviton 14-50 Plug used. I keep seeing vidoes of how bad of a plug it is and it causes fires. A lot of folks including Tesla is saying to use Hubbel or a Bryant Plugs instead. I just wanted to get you thoughts on it.

[@JBurger538]

Do you have a link to the torque screwdriver that you used?

[@jayjohns5653]

KLIEN Screwdrivers have really hard tips

[@Wood424]

Thank you, and I appreciate your step by step approach

[@hanzischultz9284]

Boy, you really know how to explain things. Very clear, detailed, complete, and so easy to understand. An excellent instructor!

[@ashwanijangra]

Thanks for the great video @theexcellentlaborer In my main panel there is only ONE bar, don’t have separate for ground and neutral. Can I connect both the wires on this single bar at random empty space? Please guide. Thanks

[@thomaslopez155]

❤it man u are a LIFE SAVER.JYST BOUGHT A HSE AND MAN THEY DUD A $,U AND AVE SAVED ME THOUSANDS. AND YES MY POPS INSPECTOR....COOL BROTHER U KEEP TEACHING ME.THAN KG S AGAIN. ❤IT

[@marif6598]

You explained everything so well. Excellent video.

[@chippydog2]

The torque screwdriver you used , was it a Vevor model ? Haven’t had luck with that company ( cheaply made tools)

[@louisviciedo]

Great video as usual, regarding installing a 50a breaker on my sub panel and specifically capcity. I have a new Tesla and want to add a 50a breaker on my garage 100a sub panel. Can you confirm that this is no-no please?

[@thesteveky502]

I'm wanting install a 220 plug for a Tesla charger. Would you suggest using the surface mount plug if I wanted it attached to the outside of the drywall or should I use the flush mount in a surface mount box? Also, my electrical box is outside and I was going to run conduit through my crawl space into my garage. Does it hurt if the wire says indoor only if it is in conduit outside for about 5 feet?

[@Lou-jf4rl]

Was that receptical torqued to inch pounds or foot pounds?

[@TheExcellentLaborer]

Inch lbs. I hope that clears the air!

[@Lou-jf4rl]

@TheExcellentLaborer also not trying to over engineer this but I think it might be advisable to put some sort of cut off switch in the garage as the receptical isn't gfci nor afci protected. Also hubble makes a cover for its receptical which covers the outlet when unplugged.

[@jimmytate7587]

according to the ne, a 30 amp circuit is approved for a welder even though the welder has a 50 amp plug on the cord. the receptacle must be label for welder use only.

[@devontrebarlow5980]

Man thank you!! This was very informative and helpful! Exactly what I needed!! 💯

[@richstarstar]

Good job. Love the video. how did you estimate the length of the run so good. You had a drawing to work from or you just use a tape measure and guestimate?

[@TheExcellentLaborer]

Thanks! I’m glad you love the video. I use a 100 foot tape and then run it where the wire will be installed. I simply just use that measurement to buy the length of wire. I hope that helps!

[@richstarstar]

Thanks for the response. @@TheExcellentLaborer

[@stuartmarkman769]

I was tought too wrap wires clockwise around screws so they stayed tight and didn't spread out. It just works better. Torque is rated in inch or foot pounds. The wire screws are tightened too INCH pounds.

[@LarryRichelli]

I was disappointed that the torque screw driver was not listed in this video or on you Amazon parts page.

[@robertbeyers1308]

When connecting your ground to the box didn't go in clock wise direction so the wire got loose. Always go clockwise (not counterclockwise) when turning a screw into any wire terminal. In order to ensure the wire got taken not loosed

[@Amer-yl4gb]

Great information video. I notice 1 mistake and that was you installed the 3/4 cable clamp backward. The screws for the clamp has to be inside the box. This is because incase in future they need to get more wire inside box on a finished wall they can loosen the screws and pull some wire inside the box.

[@JohnThomas-lq5qp]

Wrong. Two screw connectors should have the screws on outside of the box. Don't think inspectors like your way. With NMB cable stapled within 12" of a box next to impossible to pull in more wire.

[@Amer-yl4gb]

@@JohnThomas-lq5qp lol please dont make things up out of the blue. This has nothing to do with the inspector, this is about the design engineering and proper function. First of all it doesnt matter what inspector likes or doesnt like. As per code, a cable must be secured to the box by the method the manufacturer of device/fastener has specified. 2nd of all, USUALLY (but not a requirement), a GOOD electrician will leave a slack of wire in the form of S between the box and the staple. A house lives for 100 years and during this time if someone mess up wires when connecting the devices, they'd have the option to pull in some slack into the box. A good example of this is the plastic push-in connectors for NMD wires where you can pull wires into box but not out. 2nd example is the regular NMD respectable boxes with the screw inside the box to secure the cable.

[@JohnThomas-lq5qp]

Did you ever have a job inspected? The inspector or AHJ has the final say. With 12/2 costing what a $1 a foot a little over a year ago no electrician will install stupid money wasting S bends for cables entering a box. The NEC mandates a support within 12" of boxes feed with NMB cable so that makes it very difficult to make a S bend and provide the 12" support. Metal box manufacturers never supplied type of connector to be used in their boxes. There are over a quarter Millon words in the NEC and hundreds of exceptions to all of the articles and like I have been told at the over 100 continuing education classes that I attended to renew my electrical license is if you ask 3 inspectors you might get 4 answers. The few times that I objected to an hick prima Donna only inspector in a little town that attempted to write me up for code violations I won out. Best was after my inspector passed a job local hick tried to I give me a violation for making a single splice on a 14 gauge wire inside if a circuit breaker panel. After I gave him the NEC article that allows it told me that he would let me get away with it that time. After many years still learning.

[@Amer-yl4gb]

@@JohnThomas-lq5qp I do agree with you... with the copper prices after Covid no one is doing that S thing anymore. I learned that when I was a kid doing construction jobs here and there. But we do electrical cabinets for manufacturing segments. Complying with residential codes is child's play compare to industrial codes and regulations. I personally done 2 full basements and 3 house renovations jobs so far... maybe I was lucky I haven't had a jerk for a inspector... and yes like you said there been time when the inspector has said "you can't do this" and I told him yes I can and here's what the code says and then he would ok ok fine but I wouldnt do it like that... and moved on to the next item... inspectors just verify your are up to the code and if your are then it doesn't matter what he personally feels about your job.

[@Amer-yl4gb]

What led me to this video was out of frustration in fitting a 14-50 receptacle in a 2-gang box. Usually a 4-11/16 box is used like the oven. But I wanted to minimize the drywall damage in the already finished garage and the fact that the receptacle bag said use a 2-gang box. Now when I was trying to wire 6/3 cable to it and intall it, the receptacle plate bent. So I wanted to see how others do this 😅. Anyways I cut the wires much shorter and pre bent wires and that still was hard to install but it went in fine.

[@joshscott301]

I believe there have been problems using cheap stove outlets for EV charging. Generally the stove outlets weren't built to handle that high of voltage for 5,6,7, 8-12 hours at a time like an EV does. It would be similar to all burners on high and stove on boiler all night every night. A stove would rarely be used at that voltage and never for longer than a few minutes before being turned down if it was .

[@davegibson4255]

You don’t know what you are talking about they are the same size metals inside and have to be or would never pass UL listings and the voltage is the same it’s the current/amperage that sizes everything when it comes to wire gauge other than industrial commercial wire rated to 600volt and higher

[@treyblack9736]

Is the ground wire still connected to the box? It looks like it’s no longer connected when you started connecting it to the plug.

[@peterchow4577]

Thanks Josh another great video. Just want to know if you have the link for the torque screwdriver? 👍

[@rpb7405]

Can you recommend an adequately sized electrical box with cover for the Hubbell HBL9450A receptacle?

[@nabilazirna]

Thank you so much for great the information. Where can I find a 75 in-lb torque screwdriver in Canada? Only I found 70 in-lb in Amazon! Thanks

[@badbob]

Great Video. Well spoken and informative. Thanks for sharing as I enjoyed it very much.

[@michaeltablet8577]

Your videos are always helpful. Thank you very much!

[@TheExcellentLaborer]

Fantastic! You are very welcome. I appreciate you watching my videos!

[@StashySleepy]

The yinzer accent is pristine. Feels like home. 😉 Excellent video, man.

[@andrewt9204]

Really important to overstate that you should only use Hubbell or Bryant receptacles for EV charging. If your main use is EV charging and/or a welder, a 6-50 will be cheaper to wire. And if you're running conduit, could allow you to downsize or fit more circuits in there. Also, I think a lot of states have adopted the 2020 code now which requires all receptacles to have GFCI. And depending on the brand, holy are they expensive. Why I went with Siemens stuff, their 2-pole GFCI breakers are usually quite a bit cheaper. That and they're readily available at Menards/HD/Lowes.

[@LuLu_World]

2020 code does not require all recpt to be gfci protected

[@chippydog2]

Do you have a link for that torque screwdriver ? I tried and found a couple but were really expensive

[@carloslagunas859]

Nice explanation. Thanks I just learned, how to wire a 240..

[@JRP3]

The outlet you installed is self grounding, you can see the strip of metal going from the ground terminal to the face plate, so you don't need to connect the ground wire to the grounding screw of the box. That connection is created automatically when the outlet is attached to the box.

[@802Garage]

Given the Voltage and Amperage at play, even if it isn't a code violation, HIGHLY recommended you ground the receptacle as well as of course the box as required by code.

[@JRP3]

@@802Garage The box and outlet are already grounded when installed since it's self grounding, which is the shortest path to ground. Adding extra wire does nothing.

[@802Garage]

@@JRP3 No, the box is not grounded unless the EGC is bonded to the box, which is absolutely required by code unless the box is grounded by EMT conduit grounded at the supply panel. Read NEC 250.148 please. It is also against code to ground the box with the receptacle even if the receptacle has an EGC connected and is self-grounding. This would violate the ground continuity rule. As for doing nothing to bond both, the primary reasons to do so are increased ground capacity, which increases the chances of a circuit breaker trip if there ever is a ground fault, it keeps the receptacle grounded even when removed from the box in case power was accidentally not shut off or there was another wiring fault, it is a more reliable connection than the self-grounding connection in general in terms of clamping force, total area of connection, direct path to ground,orand inability to move, and that leads to the last point which is over time the receptacle could loosen from the box which will decrease the self-grounding contact or eliminate it entirely and it also leaves room for error during install where someone may not tighten the self-grounding receptacle all the way when they are trying to get a tidy flush fit. Bonding the box and the receptacle is common practice for added safety and there is essentially no downside since the required grounding wire is already present and long enough to be used. It also makes sense to use and leave the ground in tact in case a different piece of equipment is later installed in the box which does require a ground.

[@BTW...]

@@JRP3 Bullshit - What happens when the lid is lifted? Ground is disconnected, you idiot. So you think a metal strip held by cove plate fasteners (that can come loose or thread strip) is a low impedance path from the Ground terminal of the socket to ground/Earth?