Watch this before you cut your fork!

[@WowRixter]

Thanks sooo much George!!!

[@SeeYouUpTheRoad]

You're Welcome Ric! I appreciate your subscription and your relevant comments! Cheers!

[@grantmcalpine6364]

Another great explanation. Thanks George.

[@SeeYouUpTheRoad]

You’re Welcome Grant! Please share my videos! Thanks for watching!

[@SkagitLooper]

Being the tool junkie I am, I didn't even consider cutting my first steer tube without investing in Park Tool SG-6 saw guide. I've also used it for cutting bar ends and non bike related tasks. It's worth every dollar for me. And George, your Tomassini Tecno is a smokin hot ride. I watched your video. Love seeing your bikes and others featured.

[@SeeYouUpTheRoad]

Thank You Matt! I attached a video in the description with the Park Tool Saw guide 😂

[@SeeYouUpTheRoad]

And yes I love my Tecno! That reminds me I should get it out on the road again. 😉

[@SkagitLooper]

Oops, forgot to mention I noticed the 1/16" shim between your Tecno steer tube and stem and wanted your opinion on its purchase. Does it stay well clamped?

[@SeeYouUpTheRoad]

@@SkagitLooper do you mean the shim that reduces from one and 1 1/8 to 1 inch? Yes it’s good no issues.

[@jennibristol7720]

Cutting the steerer tube is the scariest job of building a bike. I left my steerer a bit longer until I am happy with the fit. I have found some compression plugs don’t grip that well, especially ones that come with the frame/forks.

[@SeeYouUpTheRoad]

Yes it is! I said that in my how to cut a carbon fork video (link in the description) Thanks for watching!

[@FakeConcern]

Thanks, I had a pretty good idea but still... I'm just now thinking of cutting the steerer on my Bianchi so good timing!

[@SeeYouUpTheRoad]

measure measure measure lol!

[@soapowejazz]

There are two other very important points, and they are both referring to carbon fork steerers. The stem should never be on the very top, because a pipe is always weaker at its end. This means that you should always have a little spacer on top of your stem. The stem should be fully grabbing on carbon. I see way too many people not following this rule and although most of the times is probably ok you really don’t want to take such risks. The other one is that you must make sure that the stem always grabs on a region of the steerer where there is an expander plug inside. There are some stupidly light compression plugs that are way too short. Especially if you start lowering the bars without cutting the fork further this can become a big issue. I always use the deda expander that is 70mm long and will always be enough no matter where the stem is.

[@SeeYouUpTheRoad]

Both of you make excellent points. I will shoot another video covering these extremely important safety tips. I am so fortunate to have experienced viewers like yourselves to provide better content to the KZbin community at large. Thank You 🙏

[@dskordo]

Definitely yes to the second point/ recommendation. In fact, I'd suggest getting the longest plug you can find (Colnago and Deda make 70+mm length plugs). The first point is a bit more difficult with some handlebar systems (like the vision metron), which has a very specific moulded non round top cap, and requires the top of the steerer to sit just under the top of the stem for it (the top cap) to be tightened flush against the integrated bar.

[@danfuerthgillis4483]

The 3 mm space is to preload the head set bearing down bellow for the top cap, you need to use an expansion plug ( on Carbon steerer's) that is long enough to reach past the headset bearing. With nominal 25mm stack that means MINIMUM 10cm expansion plug no exceptions on carbon. With alloy or Aluminum slight different size can be used. I made a boring video on how everyone, even bike shops are not installing not only the wrong expansion plugs but installing them wrong. This video can save your life kzbin.info/www/bejne/b6SuepZopc5_d5o

[@sevontiy]

Engeneering question: how short of a stem is too short on carbon? Let's say I have a standard 40mm high two bolt stem, the center of the top bolt is around 10mm from the top, and around 6mm to the top part of the top bolt. The general recommendation to fit the top cap will be 2-3mm gap between the top edge of the stem and the top of the steerer (more exact, top of the expander plug as its top is often has some thickness). But what if you made a mistake and cut creating say 4, 5, 6, 7 mm below? When is the border line where you need to throw away the fork or to fit an expander plug with a thick top?

[@Paddystyx]

Excellent. It great that you share you valuable knowledge with us. Greatly appreciated.

[@SeeYouUpTheRoad]

I am fortunate to have an audience willing to watch my videos. Thank you for watching Kevin!

[@theFatTubist]

When I built my bike over the end of summer, there were a slew of "firsts" for me. One was the whole steer tube/fork/stem/cap system. I didn't really get how to get rid of some slop in the fork until I realized that the top cap was the tensioner for loading the bottom steer tube bearing (forgive my bad terminology). An effect of not understanding the system as a whole was that when I still had slop even after tightening the cap, it was due not realizing that already having the stem fully tightened, it was only applying the tension to the top of the stem, and not fully down to that bottom fork bearing. It works great now, though!

[@SeeYouUpTheRoad]

Order of operation is the key with a headset system. Have you watched this video yet? Pre-Ride Inspection - check headset - adjust headset kzbin.info/www/bejne/hX2Yc6FujcuNo5I

[@pcdude2394]

I work on my bike to certain extent. Meaning do not fuck with the fork cutting yourself when in doubt. Especially a 800 dollar fork. Spend 75 bucks on the bike shop to do it for you. Sometimes you gotta spend money to save money.

[@SeeYouUpTheRoad]

So so true my friend! Thanks for watching!

[@MrSandperson0]

Great video George!! Did Bianchi change their expansion plugs in the past few years? The reason I'm asking is because my 2019 XR3 came with a MUCH smaller expansion plug than the one you showed off. I ended up buying a larger plug because it spreads out the expanding force on more of the fork (if that makes sense). I'm just glad what I did on my own is matching up with what's being shipped now.

[@SeeYouUpTheRoad]

I am not sure about the different plugs. I haven't ever given them much thought. You are never using much clamping force on carbon forks so it really shouldn't be a big deal. Most stems steerer bolts have a torque requirement of 4-6nm. The stem and the compression plug should mate up that's the most important thing :-) Don't over think this please...

[@unionholdingsnightingale8248]

Thank you great video! I understand it is hard to shoot on your own. Maybe in your future follow-up video, you can elaborate why that recessed/gap portion is crucial, it took me a long time to understand this. If there is not enough space difference, the headset cap would be resting on the steerer tube (instead of pushing down against the stem) when tightening the headset screw. This is bad, your bearings and entire headset would remain loose. Also please elaborate on the stem too, it should be tightened last, after bearing compression has been set to the optimal degree of tightness.

[@lucretiuscaro]

You are probably better off if you cut a bit longer than you actually need and then put a spacer on top of your stem because this gives you more versatility if you change your mind in the end. Whereas you can always cut your fork shorter, you can't cut it longer once you're done with it.

[@SeeYouUpTheRoad]

Correct! Most of my forks have a little extra now that I’m nearly 60 years old. However, bikes that I’ve had over 10 years have cut forks many times ”slammed” as they say 😂 Thanks for watching please consider subscribing

[@p49N]

This was better than great, because my compression plug on my Ridley Helium sits lower than my stem on the fork with maybe 1 cm over lap love to see Handling video; how longer stem, lower to the frame

[@SeeYouUpTheRoad]

“Better than great” I love it Thank You !

[@thedronescene7474]

Hola George, which tires are those on your ritchey? Turbo Cotton?

[@SeeYouUpTheRoad]

Hello I am anti-Spesh so I wouldn't be riding their tires 😉 These are GP5000 Tour de France edition. They didn't make them for long. I stockpiled a few sets for a particular customer and myself. I get the great ride and puncture protection of the GP5000 but the color way of the Vittoria Corsa which doesn't have as good puncture protection, albeit a significantly better ride than the GP5000.

[@thedronescene7474]

@@SeeYouUpTheRoad Nice Nice! By any chance have you ever ridden the Turbo Cotton? I see some people saying they are a flat magnet, others claims they get no glats in over 2K miles....

[@SeeYouUpTheRoad]

@@thedronescene7474 I haven’t ridden them. Like I said I’m anti-Spesh 😂

[@thedronescene7474]

@@SeeYouUpTheRoad haha :p I want to try them with some Silca Latex tubes. just to see what all the hype is about lol

[@SeeYouUpTheRoad]

@@thedronescene7474 You do you but people need to stop supporting the Evil S -- the Evil Empire 🤣

[@eddievanich]

Hey George, quick question, on that Bianchi XR4 with Metron barstem do you mark where it sits flush then cut the fork 3-5mm below that line?

[@SeeYouUpTheRoad]

Apologies it was so long ago I don't remember what I did 😭

[@eddievanich]

@@SeeYouUpTheRoad Ok, I'm looking to build up a 2022 Trek Emonda with Metron 5d acr but there's conflicting views on where the fork steerer should be cut given its unconventional design. But in theory don't you always leave 3-5mm below the top cover?

[@eddievanich]

I found this video as reference for install kzbin.info/www/bejne/aHKxqJpofs2Hipo Pro Vibe has almost the same design and they say leave 1-3 mm although from the video it looks more like 5mm.

[@SeeYouUpTheRoad]

⁠awesome! Thank You for doing the legwork!

[@mmse88]

I have been watching your video 4 minutes and 31 seconds and you still talking? I think you’re talking too much my friend.😢

[@SeeYouUpTheRoad]

I’m not sure what you’re “complaining” about. Every THING I am saying is vital information so you don’t screw it up - in an irreversible way. This is not a video of me cutting a fork. It’s titled properly that you should watch this before cutting your fork. FYI- this is not a “how to” channel. You will rarely see me actually doing a repair on this channel because I believe it’s more important to know “why” you do something than “how” Thanks for watching please consider subscribing.