Watchmaker's tips on what to look for when buying a watch.

[@worldpeace2229]

Why would anyone dislike this? He's providing some good info and seems like a sincere chap.

[@afungula1]

+World Peace The watches he is trying to sell are dog shit!

[@Imehiel]

1. Round glass, for waterproofing and ease of replacement if broken. 2. Stainless Steel, for longevity. 3. Screw down back with a 100m rating, 'cause science. 4. Sapphire glass, because it's scratch-proof. 5. Replaceable strap, in case worn-out, or wish to change. 6. Never buy a full-gold watch, because it's going to be cheap gold and look cliche.

[@HowieDuwitt]

+Imehiel Missed the water resistant of at least 100m. You said waterproofing to do with the roundness of the glass but it should say its waterproof up to at least 100m or 10atm.

[@jamesritchie6899]

+Imehiel There is no such thing as cheap gold. I sure don't want stainless steel. Talk about cheap, stainless steel is it. Nor do I give a rat's whiskers about round glass. Rectangular glass is just as waterproof as round, if the watch is made properly.

[@eatkunt2743]

+Imehiel gold watches are tacky and look always cheap

[@omega5040]

+James Ritchie no cheap gold? obviously you don't know anything about gold

[@pacocandano]

I suppose he refers to gold PVD coating....not REAL solid 18K gold

[@Globalstudent]

Those sapphire crystal Seiko's are some of the most solidly built, fairly priced, easy to read, durable, nearly indestructible timepieces ever made. LOVE those watches!

[@mrzed2349]

paul blackmore what's wrong with eco drive. I want a solidly built SEIKO which one would you recommend. I'll be wearing it daily.

[@zacharylagler242]

mr zed I'd go with an SKX007, solid watches...

[@mrdisco99]

SKX007 crystal is Hardlex, not Sapphire, so while it's less likely to crack underwater, it will scratch more easily. Look for the SARB series (SARB033, SARB065, SARB017) or the more recent Presage series which tries to replace them. Those have Sapphire crystals, auto movements with hand-wind and hacking, 100m water resist, high-end fit and finish, and can be had for $300-$500.

[@bhaskarkayarat707]

I have found SEIKO 5 watches very dependable and quite cheap. "Made in Japan" on the watch gives me total confidence!!

[@abdullahalharthi2429]

I bought a Orient Maestro and it is the exact like you said but it has mineral glass

[@boredeker7749]

Hi Paul thank you. I am 46 and started my watch obsession just a few years ago. This post helped me greatly in finding some great watches. It helped educated my wife when she looks for a gift for me.

[@Globalstudent]

bo redeker excellent! :-)

[@josephljohnson]

Awesome video sir, thank you for the great basic advice on watch shopping. I'm 50, been buying watches for the last 20 years and knew nothing of what I was doing. I was buying whatever caught my eye, not thinking of quality or prestige. Since watching your video and handling some high quality products, I've learned the importance of heritage in a watch. I just recently purchased a Tissot PR200 T17. It has all the qualities you mentioned plus, a screw down crown. I also purchased a Seiko Flight Master and a few other Seiko's. Thank you again and make more informative videos please, your style of teaching is incredible.

[@gregpowell3420]

"...don't buy Eco-Drive watches"? You must be kidding. Powered by light, and no need to have to keep changing batteries - they cost nothing to run. I bought my first two Eco-Drives way back in 1999. They have NEVER stopped running or needed repair in sixteen years. They are still keeping great time. All still look like new. I might add, the more recent Eco-Drives and those of my wife have never missed a beat either. All have been used in swimming pools, surf, etc. Three are chronographs. No water leaks.

[@steveman751]

Yeah seriously, I'd recommend eco drive over most watches, extremely practical.

[@victortaylor9399]

Greg Powell I have an eco-drive too. Eventually the battery failed. It cost me $150.00 cdn to get it changed and took over 4 months for Citizen to fix it. The new battery lasted 6 months and then died again. They are nice watches but they have their problems. Still, I got quite a few years out it and would probably buy another one.

[@Cryptonymicus]

Even solar powered use batteries to store what the solar cells collect and eventually even they wear out. I've got one too, but I suspect the answer is that everything wears out.

[@frankvozak7280]

@@Cryptonymicus Not Rolexes

[@finished6267]

Till it's time to replace the capacitor

[@Nordmann61]

The second hand do not hit precisely on the markers on the last two watches. That is the first thing I look for when I evaluate a watch with a quartz movement. Cheers.

[@medleysa]

Don't buy Ecodrive? Maybe back in 2009. I've owned both Citizen Ecodrive and Casio "Tough Solar" watches for years, and I've never had them fail. I wear a Casio Tough Solar with atomic timekeeping (another layer of technology!) quite often, and I've had no problems with it for the 5+ years I've owned it. It's always accurate and I don't have to worry about the battery.

[@simeonaleksiev8690]

Sam Medley +1 for tough solar

[@IanDinBC]

+Simeon Aleksiev Wait til you've had one long enough for the capacitor that runs the night light to go out on you - I was lucky to find a guy in town who fixes them. Other than that, the G Shock is a different level of tough - it was deliberately designed to work in circumstances that will kill the wearer.

[@ashrafloskor]

My eco-drive's reserve battery worn out within a few days, got a same model as replacement but had the same problem again - probably to do with that particular model (iso certified divers)! People also complained about sieko's solar battery longevity! I guess it all down to any particular model you get.

[@Adam-rw4xk]

Timex used to make decent watches but they're nothing like Casio any more. Thumbs up on tough solar.

[@michaelbauers8800]

There are people out there with Eco Drives that have lasted 10 years. Willing to gamble with an Eco Drive, so I don't have to buy/replace batteries. I have two Eco drive watches. The first is a year old, and keeps great time. The second had problems with the pins in the band, but a watch repair place fixed that, and I love the second watch - it syncs to WWVB as well.

[@nuvamusic]

I own a Citizen Eco-Drive Elektra quartz women's watch, have used it for 19+ years non-stop, no problems whatsoever, never needed any service, unbeatable precision (maybe +1 min in all these years), absolutely love it.

[@MrMewsique]

That was the most practical advice about buying a watch I've heard. Thank you so much!

[@icebear_]

Thanks for the info! Bought my self a 10atm, sapphire crystal, quartz movement, full stainless. Can't be happier!

[@MrMiggoH]

Love how the people in comments clearly know nothing about watches but feel like they need to share their expertise.

[@CleanTeamSolutions]

I know enough to know about watches that the Omega Speedmaster (Man on the Moon) is a load of cow manure. Like nasa went to the moon! What a load of nonsense...and all the muppets that are coveting the Speedmaster need a good slap of reality and common sense. Point no 1) the temperatures alleged in space travel to the moon would have not only melted your damn space craft, they would have done a job on your watch too...but clearly people can't see past the brainwashed programming. And do not get me started on those muppets that said they made a watch out of parts of the space ship that went to the moon...c'mon now...

[@iSk00L]

+Mr 5 Says the man who reviews £5 watches and toy cars.

[@tomjones4318]

5 dude- That comment hurts my brain.

[@PartikleVT]

There are just some incorrect parts of the video, like how a watchmaker doesnt make the movement number one priority.

[@danmar007]

@MrMiggoH Is this your first time on KZbin? :-)

[@Globalstudent]

All sweep hands have a degree of "slop" so to speak. metal wheels have more "slop" than plastic. Better movements therefore typically have more "slop". The ETA 955 mvt, is impossible to have bang on every second. When holding the dial upright, if the sweep correctly aligns from #1 to #5 for example, it will begin to lag by 10% approx as it begins to climb upwards from #7 to #11. Cheaper plastic movements using plastic/nylon wheels have less of this effect.

[@simongchadwick]

Some of my favorite watches are Seiko 5 (Sports) - the sweep is lovely.

[@kloppo5476]

Hi Paul, I was looking at buying a seiko SBGA211 and was wondering what you thought. I've recently bought a seiko SSA397j as a more smart casual watch and was looking to upgrade to the SBGA211 for a more every-day style.

[@Globalstudent]

@@kloppo5476 it's hard to buy a bad Seiko. I am now an authorized Seiko dealer but have never ordered in a Seiko of that level. So the short answer is, I do not know the particulars of this watch, but I can assure you that Seiko is a brand to be trusted. The price seems a bit high, but in my experience its hard to find not only a "bad" Seiko, but a badly "overpriced" Seiko. Buy and enjoy is my advice. :-)

[@rodrigogarcia3988]

I just bought a watch following the steps on this video: The Wenger TerraGraph model 0541.10 Round glass. Check. All Stainless Steel. Check. Screw down back with a 100M rating. Check. Sapphire glass. Check. Replaceabale strap, mmm not sure. Swiss Made, check. All in all...I am very happy with it. Thanks Paul.

[@mirandusings]

4:42 ...the movement is the least important thing?! What is this guy smoking? Bizarre statement, but it helps explain his later gaffe when he claims that the Valima Professional has an ETA movement (just like TAG "Hoo-er" watches...), when it was clearly a quartz based on the size of the case and the second hand's ticking, which I confirmed by a quick check to the Valima website. Seems to me that after 14 years, this "watchmaker" is only qualified to change a battery, and even then I'd be wary...

[@billyalberty5202]

***** This is so wrong I don't even know where to begin. You can say "most" people who wear watches won't care about the movement and yes quartz watches are cheaper and more accurate. But that's not the reason any watch lover I've ever spoken to buys automatic watches. The engineering, beauty and craftsmanship of a well designed watch is what they care about and the movement has just as much to do with it as the quality of the case, dial face and attention to detail. It is essentially an art piece that you wear. People don't spend 100k on a Patek or a Dufour b/c they keep good time (though they do). I'm part of this crowd and the quality of the movement is arguably the most important thing to me. Its not to a rich guy who just wants to you to know he's rich and wears an expensive watch to prove it.

[@zenosxr]

I'm one of those who value their movement and absolutely love my automatic or manual mechanical watches. I also Do ***** wear my watches daily. I don't get that saying that the most important part of a watch (it's movement) is the part least cared about. A general watch buyer I'm sure doesn't care what's inside, but for people (even poor like myself) that are going to pluck down $500 on a watch expect a quality movement.

[@Globalstudent]

try keeping on time in fringe coverage area (radio controlled) like N.B. Canada. Also lots of luck with strap replacement on many G-shock watches. Tough build however, gotta give you that. I like solar digital better than solar mechanical. Works well when all systems functioning properly. Radio controlled bad choice for Eastern and Northern Canada. Go to bed with one time zone, wake up with another on display. :-( Not dependable in certain areas IMO.

[@OleTange]

Thanks. Just bought a watch with: * Round glass, for waterproofing and easier replacement. * Stainless Steel (mine is 316L) * A 100m rating. I could not tell whether it is screw down back. * Sapphire glass. * Strap that looks very similar to your example.

[@floyd6502]

Paul, I found your article here to be very informative. You have taken all of my thoughts on what a good watch is and put it into one package. As your video was playing I was comparing it to the watch that was on my wrist; a Seiko SQ. This watch has everything you mentioned except the sapphire crystal and the offset crown. My wife picked it up for $5.00 at a garage sale, I put a new battery in it, lubed the seal gasket and its been running like a charm ever since. Following your video I now have a list of particulars for my wife to follow the next time she finds an 'interesting' watch that she thinks I may like. Also, I wanted to thank you for mentioning the offset crown. I received as a gift an Invicta Reserve W/R 200Meter divers watch. Its big, bold, heavy, stainless steel case, sapphire crystal and swiss made. The only problem I have with it is the crown, they should have offset it. The crown digs into my hand. Thanks for sharing.

[@elavate7]

everything you have said makes perfect sense. its always good to have at least 100 WR on your watch.

[@ItsTimePictures]

Good video for BEGINNERS. Certainly not for anyone who actually wants to get serious about what they put on their wrist. My go to piece is an Omega Seamaster Pro, but a GShock or Ecodrive is perfectly fine. In fact, I wear a GHock while running or at the gym. I also bought a $300 Ecodrive for my father in law eight years ago and it is still kicking ass.

[@ocdetails]

I don't know that someone necessarily needs to spend $3000 or $4000 to get a quality watch. Luxury watches are not for everybody. There are so many videos out there that compare a $4000 luxury watch to a $500 watch and they both perform the same. You should buy a watch and not a brand. If the brand is important to you, then fine, but paying more for it doesn't make it a 'better' watch. It just makes it more expensive. I guarantee you that your father in law's Eco Drive is more accurate than an 8 year old Omega. So 'better' is really a relative term. That being said, there are about ten million watches that are better than the piece of shit displayed in this video. lol The only thing it has going for it is a $20 sapphire crystal and a $50 ETA quartz movement. Slap that into a $20 case with a hollow link bracelet and you get what he is showing off. Such garbage....

[@cneuoqet]

A very simplistic overview of what features a "good" watch should offer and actually more of a sales pitch to sell "Valima" watches. Actually there is a lot more to consider - in fact before I look at specific features, I would usually consider what kind of watch I'm actually looking for and in what kind of environment it is supposed to be worn in. A water resistance rating of 100m is OK if you want to take an occasional dip in a pool with the watch but by far not sufficient if you want to go diving with it. If you consider using the watch in harsh environments where it might get scratched, you might want to consider getting a case and bezel made of hardened materials that offer superior scratch resistance when compared to regular stainless steel. If you are looking for a "dressier" watch that's supposed to be worn in an office environment, a water resistance rating of 3 or 5 ATM may be sufficent. If you intend to wear the watch under a formal sleeve, you should definitely consider the diameter and height, as some watches nowadays tend to be in the range of >45mm diameter and as high as 15 - 17mm. As a sidenote - the "Valima" watches shown in this video, will probably only appeal to customers who consider a watch being an object that simply tells the time, without putting any emphasis whatsoever on the aesthetic properties of a watch.

[@cantstopme0311]

I have a solid gold colored watch and have had it for about 7 months an its holding up really well for me so far. Looks the same as I bought it.

[@itxofficial8281]

I'm not really into watches, but I can assure you that this man is 100% right. I bought a Seiko SND419P1 almost 5 years ago, and surprisingly, it ticks all the boxes Mr. Blackmore mentioned! I've had many watches in the last 20 years, some of them only for several months because of the craziest reasons: One of them said "water proof" on the back but was full of water after I went to the pool; one of them just fell off my hand because the wristband broke, and it was non-replacable; one of them constantly showed the wrong time, even though the battery was full, etc. Long story short: I found the perfect watch for ~250$, and I NEVER had any problems with it. It feels soft and light on the hand, the whole body is stainless steel and it even works as a chronograph!! So if you really like to use a watch on a daily basis, trust Mr. Blackmore and get a watch that fits his mentioned requirements!

[@Vv20vV]

Sapphire Crystal if you’re a regular joe will do just fine. If you’re a construction worker, or a very active carpenter etc, I’d suggest Mineral Crystal due to it being more shatter proof vs Sapphire. Sapphire is great for scratch resistance, but doesn’t compare to Mineral incase you smack your wrist watch against something very hard. Just a small FYI to those who are curious!

[@Globalstudent]

Dead wrong with that advice. Sapphire crystals do not shatter. Much much easier to shatter, chip, scratch, crush a mineral crystal. You've obviously never worn a sapphire crystal watch. You are probably thinking about a "ceramic" case / bezel watch. Those are definitely shatter prone.

[@mattbod]

Those Valima watches look intriguing for me because they don't seem to be available anywhere online even if they do look a bit cheap.

[@knpstrr]

Thanks for this video, I've been considering the Orient kamasu and it seems to check all of these boxes

[@MrZedblade]

I actually really like the Eco-Drive and other solar watches (like the Wavecepter by Casio.) Solar powered and radio controlled means you never have to change the battery and you never need to set the time. I think the point of these watches is that they are maintenance free. You truly need not do anything to them, ever. Yes, the battery can wear out eventually but as long as you keep it out in the light most of the time to keep it charged it should last well beyond 10 years. (i.e. don't let the battery run completely dead. At least keep it out in your bedroom rather than in a box in your closet.) I have a Casio Wavecepter Solar / Atomic (I paid around $80) from 2004 that I wore every day for 10 years (plenty of swimming, showering, etc.) and still works perfectly. The body and bezel is chipped and faded, the crystal is scratched, the buttons have become stiff, and the band clasp broke -- but the watch movement still shows a full charge and is still down-to-the-second accurate every day without me ever setting it. I just bought a more expensive Citizen Eco-Drive to replace it (around $450) and expect at least 10-15 years out of it with no servicing.

[@HEAD3455]

got the same watch going on 15 yrs one batt change awesome watch seems nowadays most watches are junk china stuff 0 quality no control just stamped out in mass I feel sorry for millenials hope they have better luck in the future!!

[@SteS71]

This is an add for some incredibly overpriced Quartz watches. You can get a Quartz Casio with stainless steel case and strap with a mineral crystal for a fraction of the price of these. Styling is better on the Casios too

[@bhaskarkayarat707]

I agree. CASIO watches are very dependable and very cheap! I am sure that the time shown on a Rolex or Omega are same as that in the CASIO !! But for people who HAVE money to burn, go ahead and spend enough money to buy a mid size car!! After all, people working in the companies making Rolex, Cartier, Rado etc. too have to survive!!

[@SHARPGFX-dc9gj]

Casio watches are best.

[@carlosbah4623]

Clear simple and useful tips. Maybe the best video about this subject in all internet.

[@jesshothersall]

Thank you, never thought about the round face being easier to replace. Nice point!

[@mic982]

Good video, sound advice. But I've owned an Eco watch by Citizen for years, titanium case, round, sapphire glass, screw-down back, 10 ATM WR and have never had a single problem. Nor have I ever had to change a battery. It seems to me, once you begin opening the backs to change a battery, GONE is the factory clean-seal and in come the problems. Am I wrong, sir?

[@maybach6536]

Not all gold watch will fade as you said if you're buying something solid like a Rolex or Omega.

[@ocdetails]

He is talking about gold plated watches, not the solid gold watches. Big difference.

[@jmarkashe660]

Stop moving the watches around so much. I got dizzy from this video.

[@pauilsandy6293]

thanks for your time on this ....

[@BmanNL1]

Don't buy ecodrive ? What !! Citizen and Seiko make great eco drive watches. I would choose one of those over the watches you presented every day.

[@simeonaleksiev8690]

Bart Nijsten casio too and yes they are great!

[@Pepingco]

Bart Nijsten I had a Seiko for about 10 years, it still looks amazing today. Bought a Seiko Solar as a dress watch, no issues at all. The Seiko Solar watches are amazing. and I have never heard of Valima at all until today. I would probably trust a watch brand that has been around for far longer than something that I never even seen in an international watch store.

[@ZORSHRINER]

Poet Productions Valima is made in Canada, by Swiss immigrants. valima.com/about_valima.htm. It is not in the Official website of the Swiss watch industry www.fhs.ch/eng/watch_brands.html

[@Pepingco]

ZORSHRINER Still, a no name brand is still a no name brand. I can make an amazing Satay Chicken meal and Im part Chinese - it doesnt make me a world class Chef. No one outside of my town has heard of me.

[@ZORSHRINER]

Poet Productions I am not attacking Vilma watches, and not praising Vilma watches. I just simply stated that they are not listed in the Official website of the Swiss watch industry, which has all the Swiss brands. Besides, if you moved to a small city in Canada, and started manufacturing your own watches, because that is the only thing you know, then your town will be proud to wear your watches, and will build you a brand name and a reputation. The world won't matter much at that moment, because your business is dependent on the hundred thousand people in your city, which is enough to make you a decent living for the rest of your life.

[@a000ab]

Hi paul blackmore, I have a technical question about mechanical watches. Would be glad if you could help; Do you think wearing a mechanical watch while riding a bike can damage its movement? I am not talking about the case of falling down or ... . What I am talking about is the effect of the vibrations that normally occur when riding a bike, on the watch. Do you think it is something worth caring about?

[@Globalstudent]

"Watchmakers" could build watches from scratch, back in the day. The term has remained in usage amongst watch repairmen, although that ancient skillset would remain only in the most exclusive, select, and remotest corners of the horological universe.

[@nickward7648]

Question: I'm looking into a watch with k1 crystal rather than sapphire. I've seen videos saying that it is just as good, do you agree?

[@Globalstudent]

+Nick Ward I am unfamiliar with K1. Sapphire I know and trust.

[@pacocandano]

Reactor watches have K1 glass....SUPER STRONG AND STURDY WATCHES

[@ColonelJGHyde]

Great video, Paul. More watch vids, Please!!!

[@JohnSmith-rm9dc]

I dont live near your shop so i cant go there but can you give me a link of an online place to buy bothe the professional and the first one you started the video with.

[@Globalstudent]

Getting in the mood to shoot a few more. Maybe I'll do one on fake Rolex's next. lol

[@ColonelJGHyde]

Great idea shoot more watch videos!!

[@michaelpagz7617]

paul blackmore if you do get a fake yaghtmaster 😂

[@GriJelly]

I was just wondering what you think of Invicta's flame fusion crystal. Also, I recently bought the Invicta 12406 and it advertises as having a 'flame fusion crystal' on sale for $200 CAD. Is it worth it.

[@GriJelly]

+ Star Trek Theory I was just wondering what 'flame fusion' was, sorry I should have clarified my question. Also I never once said there isn't a $200 Seiko or Citizen watch. Here is where I buy my watches: www.jomashop.com/

[@rebelgrey3349]

yes haha

[@ouzaloid]

Another tip he forgot to mention : the colour contrast between the hands of the watch and its background, if they are of similar colors, it will be difficult to know time at the first sight quickly.

[@johncunningham5435]

I also own the echo Citizen multi functional watch; titanium case with strap, Sapphire glass, 200 meters water resistance, atomic sync that works, "maximum signal strength", model 4010-50E. The only reason the lithium rechargeable battery would fail is lack of sunlight or artificial lighting, like any rechargeable battery they need to be kept charged, that way they will last much longer at full capacity. If maintained you can expect 10 to 20 year life span " possibly more " and no! you do not need to send them in, the battery can be replaced if you know what you are doing and a total reset of the watch would be required, "the tricky part". Personally I love my Citizen watch, the style, complexity and a calendar that never runs out.

[@juangonzalez9848]

I have had a sapphire front be destroyed from welder slag bouncing into my glove (was wearing leather sleeves tucked into gloves so I didn't notice till well afterword that the inside of glove was getting burned up) They are great but do not hold up to ridiculous heat well. Have had the same thing happen to my iPhone that was in my front pocket.

[@chuckschillingvideos]

Neither does any watch crystal material. And if you're a welder, you should know better than to wear ANY jewelry while you are welding.

[@constantdarkfog49]

I often just get tired of looking at the same old wrist watch. So it doesn't pay me to buy a quality watch. I do fine with cheap $10 buck quartz watches & toss them after a couple of years service. Works for ME. Your information waas very good for a quality watch, thank you.

[@amirkhusroohamid9705]

Nice video! I just bought a Swiss Victorinox 241444. And I'm glad to know It has all the basics you've mentioned in your video. Very helpful video Sir, keep it up!

[@chrisbreier6255]

I really enjoyed your video Paul. Thank you for sharing your thoughts on what you believe to be the basic requirements when purchasing a watch between $100- $300 based on your 16 years of experience. I learned more in your 10 minutes than I have in a lifetime when talking to sales people. I learned that a watch purchase I made during a recent vacation in South Carolina was as good a purchase as the salesperson made me believe. I picked up my watch for under $170 U.S. for a Nautica BFC46.

[@HighRoad001]

The appeal for mechanical is just that, that it is machinery. A VERY complex, sophisticated piece of engineering and machinery. A quartz is just a piece of technology. It doesn't take the same amount of skill or craftsmanship and is simply powered by electricity.

[@frankvozak7280]

I own over 100 watches from my Rolex Submariner to several tuning fork Accutrons, to a rather large collection of quartz and automatic Bulova to a collection of Seiko, Citizen and Pulsar railroad watches to a vefry large collection of Stauer auto-matics and few qiuarz watchesand a bunch of cheap but fun quartz watches to a ittenhaur, mylate father Benrus wind up and my personal favorite a 1957 Ball Rwy Standard trainmaster. Yourn video is by far the best advice I have ever seen on buying a watch. I prefer stainless steel since my skin acid strips away any gold except for 60's Bulova rolled gold case products. I even have a few Timex military watches which I wore in uniform in the service. Stauer has the thinest gold plating and and offers few stainless steel cases

[@Globalstudent]

Thank you for your kind words.

[@SteadyDemand]

Handy tips, thanks very much Paul!

[@Wyrmwood66]

Absolutely loved your video. I agree with everything you said, the only thing you didn't mention was a screw down crown which surprised me. I loved the watches you had in this video. I wouldn't mind buying a watch from you if I could.

[@Globalstudent]

Thanks for your kind works. So busy with repairs these days, I've almost had to give up selling watches in efforts to try to keep up with my repairs. A quick note on screw-down crowns. To be honest, a screw-down crown is only properly fitted to a watch rated 200m or higher. They frequently develop thread issues at about the 10 year mark and need replacing which can be a problem getting original parts or even generic parts. Only proper dive watches rated at 200 meters or better should have this higher maintenance feature IMO. 👍

[@juansantiago3296]

Thank you Paul for the insight. I have a love for watches and have close to 35 watches. I have mostly Seiko, citizen, bulova, Hamilton to a timex....

[@LeathermanFan2]

Yep, it isn't so much about the movement inside the watch, but a good crystal, case, and band. Personally, I wear a dive watch with a rotating bezel. No matter how fast or how slow your mechanical automatic watch is. You can always use the rotating bezel to adjust the time. Nice watches though.

[@kris8742]

Good advice Paul, as a retired watchmaker with fifty years in the trade you are spot on with this advice, for the average joe. and even if you are going for a high end product its still worth taking note off if your going to wear the watch every day.

[@n0cturn2l]

At 3:30 look at the minute hand and watch the glass getting damaged.

[@imsgoalie1984]

Thanks for a really informative video. I learned a couple interesting and important things.

[@lukeventers3566]

Paul, thank you very much. I have a physics background, and I can totally see what you mean about the round/vs square crystal. I, too, am a BIG fan of Sapphire glass. I have never seen anyone go to town on it like you did with that metal instrument. Even my timepieces with a sapphire crystal; I still treat as if they're just a simple hardened mineral crystal, etc. I baby them, and clean them with a lint-free super-soft cloth (that I also use to clean sunglasses and eyeglasses to avoid scratching delicate glass with dust and/or particulates. It's nice to see a practical application of the hardness and scratch resistance of sapphire glass. I own a Smith & Bradley Atlantis, a Reactor Gryphon, a Traser Big Date Pro Limited Blue Chrono (the REACTOR and TRASER watches feature an H3 *heavy Hydrogen isotope* that is a radioactive material encased in thin glass tubes, which are then inlaid in the face, hands, bezel, etc which glow steadily independent of exterior light sources for a period of about 25 years. This is called Tritium. And it's a fascinating technology. If you're not familiar with it, I highly recommend you look into it. You may also want to become a dealer for Reactor watches. They're right up your alley. Made with 316L stainless which is extremely rust resistant and is suitable for US Military applications. REACTOR boasts the "worlds toughest watch." I suppose that remains to be seen, but I do know mine holds up well to the elements, water, cherry trees, etc. ;) The Traser (look them up) is a really neat brand that also endeavors for Mil-spec (Military specification) quality. In addition to these I own a Bertucci field watch, a Seiko Proxpex aviator chrono that is solar powered, which is nice because then (barring something drastic) you don't have to ever open up the caseback. This (hopefully) and technically would then reduce the likelihood that something might happen when the caseback is reattached that would limit the future water resistance of the timepiece. Granted, as you said, these solar powered watches introduce "another element" into the equation, but this one, the SEIKO as well as the Citizen Promaster dive watch with "Eco-Drive" technology both are wonderful timepieces. They, too have Sapphire glass. My Hawaiian Lifeguard Association dive watch is also quite nice. And most of these pieces are good or rather, rated to at least 200M water resistance. (or 20ATM). I also have a Casio "Edifice" chrono which is very nice. Sapphire glass included. A beautiful Wittnauer chronograph. Several INVICTUS dive watches, a great old, tried and tested TIMEX "Expedition" a new ICE watch, a TW steel diver, a vintage Citizen diver, with world time, a CASIO Pro-Trek which is my only digital watch (except for an old vintage Casio digital from the 80's) and a FREESTYLE dive watch. Some of these feature a screw down crown. The Hawaiian Lifeguard Association watch and the S&B (Smith and Bradley Atlantis) watch. Smith and Bradley is a fantastic new company based in America. I recommend you check them out. As well as the spec's these others. First, here's a link to the new Smith & Bradley I own: www.smithbradleyltd.com/products/the-atlantis-automatic-black-dial And here are some links to other watches I very highly recommend. Function first. Then form. These are beautiful timepieces. And are sublime in their craftsmanship. Some, too, are really an amazing deal for the money. First the: Seiko Prospex Solar Chronograph, SSC277 smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MHAXN5A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 CITIZEN PROMASTER diver BN0151-09L smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PXVU3GM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The HAWAIIAN LIFEGUARD ASSOCIATION certified dive/rescue watch smile.amazon.com/Hawaiian-Lifeguard-Association-Analog-Watch/dp/B07BH6HDK8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1533392384&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=hawaiian+lifeguard+association+watch&psc=1 Casio Edifice Silver Dial Stainless Steel Men's Watch EFB301JD-7A smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQNH62Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Wittnauer Mens Aiden Chronograph w/ Date Watch, WN3005 smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0124YYAZK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Akribos XXIV Men's Silver Tone Case with Black Dial and Orange Accented Bezel on Silver-Tone Stainless Steel Bracelet Watch AK947SSOR smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EI0NLY4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 TW Steel CB54 Men's XXL Chronograph Stainless Canteen Two-Tone Bracelet Band Gold Dial Watch smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YXRFYRK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Invicta Men's 8926OB Pro Diver Stainless Steel Automatic Watch with Link Bracelet smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JQFX1G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Invicta Russian Diver smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004V96OKQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Invicta Men's Aviator Chrono smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J082PVU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Italian Made, Sector Men's R3251197023 EXPANDER Analog Display Quartz Multi-Color Watch smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IN5D2MM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Carrie Hughes Men's Gold Automatic Watches Steampunk Skeleton Self-winding Mechanical Stainless Steel Discolored Glass Waterproof Watch (CH88226GD) smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X6K2XPH/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 And before I forget, one of the markers a lot of collectors and enthusiastic horologists are looking for (today) is the type of "lume" in and/or ON a watch. Superluminova being the best. Check out that H3 "tritium" illumination technology I was telling you about. Here's a link to an ebay listing for one like the piece I own, just in-case you want to pick one up. I HIGHLY recommend it. It's got sapphire glass, is waterproof to ten atmospheres, glows in the dark even without an external light source "charging" it up, as a wonderful, easy to read chronograph, and the stainless steel is coated in PVD, which rocks. Mine is worth about $900, since it's a limited edition. For more info on the brand, check out their website: www.traser.com/ You could become an authorized dealer for REACTOR and TRASER! And then, with a little bit of local marketing, you would/could grab a lot of business you didn't know you had, from my generation. Especially from avid outdoorsmen, like myself. Cheers, and God bless, !Luke A. VENTERS~ Venters Financial Polson, Montana, USA

[@preachersdtr1]

So pleased to have landed on this page! I don't have tons of money to spend, and I'm totally not interested in status symbols. What I DO want is a watch that maintains the correct time AND which I can easily see & read in daylight & in the dark; AND, which is easy to set and maintain, sturdy, watertight, durable, and tells me the Date, as well. Ideally, it would also tell me the Month and the Day (e.g: Sun Mar 19); but, on those last two features, I've almost given up. The watch you were holding at the beginning of the video comes the closest I've seen, so far, to having everything I need my ideal watch to have. Will be contacting you, sir. Thank you for this excellent video. (I subbed the channel.)

[@Rhaspun]

take a look at Sinn or Damasko watches.

[@preachersdtr1]

Thank you! I will do that.

[@j0nnY77x]

I would highly recommend the seiko skx 007 it is a divers watch so it is waterproof and sturdy it has lume so you can read it at night and also has the day and the date perfect for you.If you want something cheaper get a timex digital.

[@Red_Proton]

It'd be helpful if you can include your website in the description. Great information that you shared. Thanks!

[@tripsadelica]

All of the advice Mr. Blackmore gives here is laudable. He is right on all points but I'd be a little less worried about having a rectangular lens on a watch as most rectangular sizes have been standardised these days. The problematic lenses are those with a hexagonal or octagonal design. More often that not you need to go back to the manufacturer to source the OEM lens and the manufacturers charge like wounded bulls! A few additional things to bear in mind that aren't covered in this video. 1. Most quartz movements are okay. There are mainly three movement makers for quartz these days, two Japanese (Miyota and the various iterations of Hattori [Seikosha] plus the Swiss quartz made, I think, by Ronda. A jewelled quartz movement will be better than one without but even those are fairly robust. 2. When looking at a watch pull the crown out and get a feel for how much give there is to adjust the hands. A crappy watch will have hands that feel loose and will not stay in the desired location when you push the crown back in, making them a nightmare to set. Steer well clear of a watch like that. 3. The Chinese mechanical watches (auto and wind up) have regained the quality they had in the 60s and 70s and the typical Tongji (CSM Chinese Standard Movement) movement is a tough, usually well made and accurate timepiece with between 17 and 21 jewels. The best part about these Chinese wind up and auto watches is that they can be bought for around twenty bucks. Yes, at this price they have a base metal case but the watch will keep on running through thick and thin. Oh...lots of people these days don't understand the meaning of a jewelled watch. The jewels have nothing to do with decoration. In mechanical watches they are usually man-made rubies that are set on the top and bottom bearing of cogs to reduce friction and to prevent wear where the wheel and holder meets. The more jewels, the better the movement. 17 is a good starting number.

[@ThePandafriend]

+tripsadelica I disagree with the last sentences. It is true that jewels should be used as bearings however just because a movement has many jewels it doesn't mean that it's a good movement. There are tons of points which are more important. If you're referring just to quarz watches there is for instance the stepping motor, the integrated circuit and even the quarz crystal itself. Plus the quality of the pinions and wheels. And also which oil and fat is used is very important. Referring to mechanical movements there are tons of other points. I could write a lot about that but let's just say that the quality of the escapement and shock protection, the shafts of the wheels, the weels themselves and the vertical play are amongst the most important points. Plus the movement has to be well regulated but that has nothing to do with the movement itself.

[@tripsadelica]

I agree...component quality is VERY important. Thing is that most components, be they duranylon or metal, are cast or CNCd via computer and there's very little margin of error. I think the biggest problem with the cheapy watches is the final assembly and, as you say, the lubrication. Poor assembly introduces disparities in the tolerances for the gear train which then cause serious time-keeping fluctuation. Poor lubrication will see a movement seize up within a year, maybe less.

[@jerryg50]

I noticed on the watches that were being shown the landing of the second hand is not precise as like should be expected. I have watches from Casio, Citizen, and Seiko, where the second hand landing is very accurate throughout its travel. There are many people who are not critical for the landing of the hands... My favorite watches have been in the higher end of the G-Shock series with the hard rubber casing and a sapphire crystal. These are difficult to mechanically break. I have some that are solar and radio time set. The watches I have were not cheap and have been very reliable. Accuracy is better than 3 to 6 seconds per month when warn which is very good for a quartz watch. My favorites are using digital display with a back light for viewing at night. I also have some automatic mechanical watches from Omega, Eterna, and Hamilton. These were expensive to buy, and I have to be careful with them. Mechanical watches are more fragile than the quartz type. Mechanical watches require maintenance every 4 to 5 years which is expensive.

[@RebelKnightCSA]

You are correct about the mechanical part. That said, I'm not sure Swiss made is all that necessary anymore. Miyota (Japan) and Sea-Gull (China) have proven themselves just as capable of quality as any ETA or Sellita (both Swiss). Make no mistake; I appreciate Swiss movements - in fact, I'm wearing a watch with a 25 jewel automatic ETA right now (Sandoz Pepsi Submariner). That said, Japan and China have proven themselves just as respectable as the Swiss.

[@Hamid5495]

what is model name watch your holding pls.let me know thanks

[@Adrian.Messenger]

I asked the same question over a year ago but got no answer .

[@Boswd]

when spending under $200 to me it's Timex, Just great styles in the Waterbury, Weekender and the Expedition Just love Timex they seem to last forever in my experience.

[@stephenarling1667]

The upgraded Expedition models (apparently called the Allied series now) are claimed to have stainless cases. If they really are 316 stainless, then at ~ $100 US they are an unbeatable value for durable utility.

[@skra11]

This was some excellent advice. I have been looking at watches and comparing price/quality and looking at the Amazon reviews. Watches that have all of your characteristics rank very high on customer satisfaction. Unfortunately, many of the watches that I like are rated for 50m water resistance. Do you see a big difference in build quality or durability between 50m and 100m? Many of the Hamilton watches use Swiss movements but are rated for 50m. Thanks, SK

[@Bomber848480015]

Great information Paul I wish you were in located in my area.

[@Rareparrot]

Thanks for the video. Have an eco-drive watch from citizen - no problems with it thankfully after years. Also just bought a (30 dollar) used 1940 gold swiss watch from ebay, still has a little gold on it after all this time. Hope your business is doing well !

[@treza133]

i actually enjoy the video, even the ad, nice tips sir.

[@nicholasjoseph9062]

Thanks for the tips, sir. Solid advise.

[@robinj.9329]

Great video Paul! Thank you for this great advice. (Both my Mom's folks were born in Canada! Plus one Uncle. I have many, many blood relations still there!)

[@Jeremyisthings]

Great video! I appreciate knowing the basics and being taught by an expert. I am graduating college next year and am looking for a great timepiece to commemorate my time at University and take with me into the professional world!

[@capitangreen2921]

Does the screw on back make a big diffrence? for something like a dress watch?

[@coloursoftherainbow8399]

These tips are for affordable watches, a square glass will be replaced by the manufacturer or authorized watch repairers or competent watch makers who repair certain brands if its a luxury time piece. You would want the original parts from the manufacturer in any event and not have it replaced by a watch maker with his own glass.

[@locutusdborg126]

So I should sell my Patek with the rectangular form factor?

[@tylero8595]

Sure. I'll buy it ;-]

[@testchannelone6616]

Great video. Can you give me your opinion? I just bought a new seiko 5 (SNKE49K1, 7S26 movement) on A-zon and I'm finding the power reserve is about 26 hours. The general wisdom is about 40 hours. I start by shaking it for a minute and I wear it all day. I wonder if it's possibly defective? (also there was no plastic cover on the display back.) Thank you.

[@elbowroomtube]

Hello, My question has to do with a screw down crown compared to push pull. If you have two watches both rated for 100 meters, would not the screw down crown be much better simply by design? or can a push pull offer the same water security. Are some push pull crowns designed better than others. Thanks

[@MyYTwatcher]

I think mr watchmaker made some very good points for people who doesnt know anything about watch and who are not interested in getting some better watch. I would give him + for his tips, but I would give him - for saying that movment is not important. But as summary he is on plus side.

[@PETERJOHN101]

Very nice to hear what an expert has to say, thank you. Some of this I knew and some of it I did not. I also have a question if I may. Can you explain how watches are priced? An Orient mechanical can be had for $75 brand new, while another brand will sell their mechanical for not less than $400. What explains this?

[@HOTRODLED]

Great video! Thanks....Enjoy your holiday!

[@robhodge9234]

We have bought 2 Fossil Watches(both need repair), a very expensive Oakley, a Modavo, 2 Seiko and one Valima. I received the Valima watch for my 40th birthday 15 years ago. I wear that watch every day. Literally. They are extremely well made and I have not had one issue. I promise you they are NOT cheap, but they are less expensive for a couple reasons. They do not put a lot of energy into advertising and if you look, the webpage is antiquated. They do not make a lot of watches for this reason. My husband bought my Valima at our jeweller that we regularly deal with. I just ordered one for my daughters University graduation. I highly recommend this watch.

[@michaelchitwood6226]

What is your opinion of Make: Belair; saphire chrystal; round face; stainless steel band and case; screw down back; 10 ATM rating; swiss ETA Quart movement? Price at a local jewlry store of $425.00.

[@gersonnormsgersonnorms8584]

I am thinking of a watch This year 2020, what can you say about citizen ecodrive, especially regarding maintenance and service demand. Is it still having issues? Thank you very much. Your reply is highly appreciated.

[@tasmedic]

Thanks for the good advice! All I have to do now, is listen!

[@roberterwin9514]

Noticed the Echo drive comments below. I have owned one for 10 years. No problem except for long periods overcast days with long sleeve shirts. Under a lamp over night, running the next morning.

[@Globalstudent]

That is not good performance IMO. If a week of cloudy days can create uncertainty about whether your watch has lost time or stopped momentarily through the week, then I would judge the watch a failure. You describe very well the eco-drive dilemma. Also, I have noticed a further sharp decline in performance after 8-10 years. Not anything I could ever recommend, sorry.

[@apopense]

Great video, I have a question for you, I just got a tissot pr100 powermatic 80 and noticed it has a sapphire in the watch, what is the purpose of this jewel in there? Thank you.

[@ming28777]

Hi what' the brand of the first watch so nice I'd like to buy one

[@jakhan3067]

Great video, Paul. More watch vids, Please!!!

[@yvettemadelaine]

This is such a helpful video - thank you sir! :)

[@juliankh..]

Hi Paul, I'm buying a Citizen Eco-drive World Time A-T with two tone band. Now my question is its round faced, stainless steel, couple meters water resistant, anti-reflective sapphire glass, but no lunges on the back case, is it good , would it be hard to fix / repair?

[@addz17]

You may be pointing some people in the right direction but those "valima" watches look so dated and cheap its hard to take you seriously. There are so many nice watches out there for $300 i don't know why you think these are a good example?

[@evaburnz]

+addz17 especially the over-sized, ugly font in which "professional" is displayed on the bottom half of the bezel. The watch looks like a watch that can be commonly seen sported by a second-hand car salesman or a dodgy trailer park manager!

[@Draknareth]

They don't look nearly as dated as the Valima website.... :P

[@davidcoleman2463]

Orient Bambino are the best automatic watches for the money Orient Bambino are the best automatic watches for the money. Just a little to big for some people at 40.5 mm

[@Treviscoe]

@@evaburnz They're good for older people and those with limited vision though, which I would guess is the target market for that brand.

[@chuckschillingvideos]

Pretty easy - it's what he sells.

[@Slcold]

I don't make watches, but I do collect them and the only thing I agree with here is the sapphire crystal glass. The title of this video should be "what to look for when buying a reliable watch". If you want a quartz watch, a Japanese movement is probably cheaper and more reliable than a Swiss. Swiss movements are sought after when they are mechanical/automatic. In my opinion, the only reason to spend money on a quality watch (Hublot, IWC, Audemars Piguet, Rolex, Hamilton etc.) is for its movement and and the way it looks. However, you can now get automatic watches for less than 500$ and if you're going to spend that money thats what I would suggest investing in.

[@mantykarhu]

+wigwamman1 technically true.

[@TheGeezzer]

Lets see...checklist-extra on my Orient Mako III 1. Round Glass ✔ 2. Stainless Steel IVP coated ✔ 3. Screw-Down Back ✔ 4.Sapphire Crystal ✔ 5. Replaceable Strap ✔ 6. Gold Accents (not full gold) ✔ 7. 200m Water Resistant ✔ 8. Hackable Second Hand ✔ 9. Windable Crown ✔ 10. Screw-Down Crown ✔ 11. Reputable Automatic Movement ✔ 12. Day-Date ✔ 13. Uni-Directional 120 Click Bezel ✔ 14. Bright Lume ✔ 15. Clear To Read Dial ✔ 16. Over $200 ✔ Looks like I'm good to go! Thanks for the advice. ✔

[@jdemo7167]

Thank you very much for posting.

[@adrianonute1855]

Sir, I don't know if you still use this account, but I'd like your opinion on the Seiko SRP265K1, I like it's size and style, I think it's simple and classic, what I'm not sure about is the hardlex glass, I have a quartz Certina DS First(not sure what exact model) with sapphire glass, it belonged to my father, and although I love it and the glass never scratched, it's starting to be a hassle to own, the battery needs to be changed about once a year, the watch stops on occasion and needs to be shaken, or just left alone hoping it decides to start working again, and I'm worried that getting it fixed might cost more than what that Seiko model I'm looking at costs. would you recommend the seiko or getting my certina looked at, I want a rugged every day carry watch, don't have preference with the mechanism, the certina did not end up like it is because of me, I took care of it, my dad handed it to me in the state it is, so I'm not worried I won't be able to maintain an automatic watch.

[@zokna]

So can you recommend a good Tissot or Certina? Or something in that price range.

[@tomstarks842]

As a up an coming horologist, I am very thankful for this video Don Paul! Indeed, many thanks for sharing your 16 years of watch making, repair, care and yes horology.

[@508MASS378]

I like Ball and Breitling timepieces myself. Im also a sucker for a 7750 movement too.

[@fragmentedmind549]

great video and suggestions. not a professional by any mean but a watch and movement nut with OCD. I'd also check for proper hand alignment. when looking straight down on the center of the watch the second hand line up with the with the minute/second marks (this is mainly a quartz guide line), and do the hour and minute hands line up. at 12 o clock are they in line? when going from hour to hour are the hands meet the correct marks. I've seen would be nice watches that the hour hand my be at the top of the hour but the minute hand is +/-, or vice versa. and if it's used or serviced was the work done well. if the repair person hacked up the caseback they likely did other thing carelessly.

[@ravirasia]

Hello Paul, What is your opinion on a black Ion-plated Steel watch ?

[@swagskippinsquirrels]

Thank you for this video. It was extremely helpful and very practical. I am not a watch collector or enthusiast; I just wanted to buy one as a gift for someone. For a person who is looking to get the best watch at an affordable price, you touched on a lot of important factors: durability, repair, and accuracy/movement. I had already purchased the watch before watching this, so I just checked its credentials as you spoke and I am so glad that I chose a sound watch with style: Seiko Quartz Perpetual Calendar Silver Dial Stainless Steel Watch #SNQ087P1 (Men Watch). He'll love the style, and I'll be happy that it will also last a long time.

[@watchoffsale2387]

I also like watches,you can click here,on sale now: www.watchs-sale.com

[@landocalrissian5613]

Thanks for the advice!

[@rahvavaenlane]

Doesn't sapphire crack more easily, while mineral scratches? And what about titanium - quite a bit lighter and doesn't corrode.

[@Globalstudent]

Sapphire does not crack or scratch. Titanium is lightweight, hypoallergenic and excellent for watch cases A titanium clasp however, with generally wear out before a stainless steel clasp. It is weaker and will always crack sooner right at the closure.

[@ferrari430sc100]

i have a gold plated watch, but i feel that the gold plating is slowly wearing off, what could i do to make it look better? or restore the gold plating?