Water-Cooled Jet Engine in Plastic

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#jet #engine #3dprinted

[@integza]

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[@okithdesilva129]

Sure

[@mattiarossi4480]

If you print the internal wall of this model with the ceramic (which is porous) and the external one in resin you can pressurise the gap with air. That will create an air film that will isolate the printed material from the direct flame.

[@nf794]

Next Time drilling you could use a backboard when making holes in thin sheets. It helps immensly. Also please clamp down your workpiece!

[@exo068]

Why not make the internal walls out of metal. This way the heat will transfer better. The water cooling was a suggestion in the comments in the community tab from me 3 months ago on the Dyson jet engine.

[@mattiarossi4480]

A similar technique is used for the blades of gas turbine

[@loganfreedman]

Try this with a aquarium water chiller to keep temps even lower. Tomatoes are disgusting!

[@loganfreedman]

you could also try to mix in graphite into the resin with the water chiller

[@alphamet3258]

Or just ice water..

[@louisfushigiii.8967]

ltt vibes

[@oneflamey3234]

I see where you're coming from, but I don't think that would help, because there would be an insane temperature difference between the water and the resin, and this would cause a crack.

[@loganfreedman]

@@oneflamey3234 The idea would be to pre chill the resin. Keep the water running through it before the jet starts.

[@MrByped]

if your water cooling, intake goes on bottom and output ontop so your device totally fills before it can empty that way you dont end up with air pockets which dont cool anything.

[@stevepittman3770]

This is a great point, I didn't think about that. Liking so it gets moved higher up.

[@swankshire6939]

You don't need the intake on the bottom. There are tons of ways to get the air out. I hate to break it to you but every car is the opposite of what you say but they still get the air out. And just having the intake on the bottom doesnt mean that their won't be air bubbles either. It just makes it easier.

[@pabloarroyo1023]

@@swankshire6939 i know on car turbo chargers the water cooling system is supposed to have water come in from the low side and come out from the high side if it’s tilted, also improves the cooling performance

[@martinskorepa4460]

Same idea

[@dge4560]

Or put an orifice on the return line to keep pressure.

[@firehawk12164]

As someone who works with liquid hydrocarbon on the daily, I just about had a heart attack when you said you were going to use it as coolant for a sparking fireball engine

[@U20E0]

boom

[@Lucifer-sn9ir]

Yeah I don't know anything about flammable stuff other than plastic and fire and more flammable stuff is a good way to get yourself killed

[@ericgoldman7533]

To be fair, passing the fuel through tubes lining the combustion chamber or nozzle is exactly how many (if not most) liquid fuel rockets keep those components cool. With a better design that reduces heat transfer/concentration to the plastic components, and ensures better flow of the coolant for more uniform cooling, I suspect Integza's engine would have worked fine.

[@U20E0]

@@ericgoldman7533 the difference being that the rocket engine is made of metal and that the fuel can’t burn in unintended places ( unless the oxidizer leaks or the fault happens very early )

[@pacomg_2553]

Reminds me of the time one of the guys at the workshop tried to cool some overheated angle grinder with his butane welding torch. It was still plugged in.

[@adamstankus8301]

Hey Joel, I just noticed that the electrodes are probably causing a lot of heat transfer to the resin. Maybe try a ceramic tube or slip coating to isolate that heat from the body part.

[@ZenBeepBop]

There's a high voltage going through them from the tesla coil, but not current. The rods i think should remain fairly cool

[@GildoJK]

​@@ZenBeepBop But what about the combustion going on? Would not it heat the rods?

[@QueernMental]

@@ZenBeepBop The electrodes inside the combustion chamber will be heated by the burning fuel and transfer heat down their length.

[@pete5383]

Now try this with liquid nitrogen and metal 3D print to keep temperatures even lower!

[@3ch0_17]

Liquid nitrogen might damage the plastic

[@livemusic2478]

Not gone work it's gonne be to cold

[@frankierzucekjr]

That's what I thought he was going to use instead of BUTANE lol. Trying to make something work, you will try just about anything

[@phobos1963]

The liquid nitrogen is gonna make the plastic even more brittle, and it could shatter like nothing because of the combustion.

[@limitlessenergy369]

Wont work and will damage the plastic. I messed with nitrogen as a teen with a friend

[@Backyard.Ballistics]

I can't believe you used liquid butane to cool a combustion chamber made of plastic, that was brilliant! 😂 P. S. : that keyboard is filthy!

[@xxxm981]

It is called regenerative cooling, actually pretty common with rocket engines.

[@ModelLights]

'liquid butane to cool a combustion chamber ' Brilliant, until it happens to go wrong in the exactly right way, and the liquid becomes gas, and ignites all at once making a larger than expected fireball.. If you do the math it might really not be that bad, or it could be a terrible idea, depends on the expansion ratio.

[@JM-mz1zj]

Beat me to it on the keyboard

[@superspooky4580]

@@ModelLights Remember. Butane by itself is not dangerous or explosive. Infact butane in a sealed container can't even catch on fire. You need a second ingredient. Oxygen. No oxygen, no fire. Thats why with propane bottles the flame doesn't just run up inside the bottle and detonate.

[@ModelLights]

@@superspooky4580 When you're combusting butane inside the combustion chamber, it will have to have all necessary ingredients for combustion. When something goes wrong with the chamber and the liquid butane cooling the chamber gets out, there's also plenty of oxygen right outside. Lighters etc are relatively safe. That doesn't stop one from rarely exploding. And that would be a lot less rare if you're purposefully causing fires right outside the lighter casing instead of only in the properly designed mechanism for the lighter. This is far more likely to encounter problems than just using an already well designed and safety iterated lighter..

[@dannykheylik6631]

Try to make a controller, this is what we actually use even in the early stages of jet engine builds. This helps a lot to understand what is going on inside the engine and by comparing this data with your design and materials used, you will know what is the problem and how exactly it can be solved. Helps to minimize the time you waste on prototypes and obviously the cost of materials used. the most basic one would include at least 2 thermal sensors (we use 2 at each stage of the engine for better results, but it's not really necessary for your needs), in your case 1 would be used inside the engine and the other one on the nozzle (just an example, you can play with it), AR sensor that would show the exact mixture (this will allow making it more efficient (by that I not only mean consumption but also temperatures (that are quite important in your case) (because the good mixture will decrease temperatures of combustion), air flow sensors (show the speeds of intake air etc.) and the last but not least is flow/consumption sensor (but it mostly used for liquid fuels, so not sure if it would be helpful for you. (If needed can help with code etc.) thank you for your videos.

[@aaronthedude8787]

This.

[@zizka2515]

Should use a ceramic spacer/O Ring to hold your diffuser to prevent the heat transfer from the metal to the resin/plastic

[@quakxy_dukx]

The butane coolant was a great idea. It was perfectly effective at producing content

[@ArchieHalliwell]

I mean, it might have worked if he had purged the chamber first

[@lejatzman96]

Why dont we cool it, With fuel

[@Mikowmer]

The idea is actually sound. Some rocket engines run the fuel through the engine bells to keep them cool.

[@quakxy_dukx]

@@Mikowmer but those are thoroughly reinforced and aren’t made of resin

[@antoniotethys69]

@@quakxy_dukx it might be because integza is thinking of making things way ahead of what he has atm lol

[@OGmakeitmatt]

Hey integza, I had the same idea as you a couple years back and designed a water-cooled jet engine as well, but due to not having an SLA printer i was unable to give it a try. I designed it with a spiral water cooling and perfectly sized walls so that maximum cooling would be created. If you want I can send you the files if you are interested in trying out my design. Just let me know. :) Update: Seeing as you guys like this idea, I should also add that I also designed it with tangential air and fuel inlets as to provide an extra layer of protection by creating a boundary layer of insulating air. I saw this concept used before on a 3d printed rocket and it worked to some extent.

[@maxxx2671]

Like this up guys!!!

[@bamsuth9650]

yep

[@MrSrilax]

I want to see this. Hope integza does

[@ledocteur7701]

I was just about to comment about making a spiral channel all around the chamber for the water to follow, maximizing the surface area for the cooling, as well as allowing for thinner walls that shouldn't crack since they are connected to the outside shell by the channels. nice to see that someone already thought of that idea.

[@billj.3561]

Bro is an actual time traveler, subtly trying to advance humanity 😲

[@VecheslavNovikov]

Love it! I had recommended water cooling over a year back, so glad to finally see it attempted. Oh, and using the fuel to cool the engine is pretty much what NASA used to do, they cooled the bell nozzle (and I think the chamber) with the fuel before sending it into the chamber. Of course, they had a much higher flow and systems that could handle MUCH higher pressures, so it might not be a great idea to implement in plastic.

[@BillyWitchDoctorDotCom]

I just had a thought - if he DID use liquid nitrogen, could it have gotten the combustion chamber cold enough that his fuel would precipitate back into a liquid?

[@mikequinn3062]

It would be interesting to watch it run with a infrared camera and see the efficiency in each design change.

[@BillyWitchDoctorDotCom]

I know IR can't see through glass - kinda cool actually, it acts like a mirror so you can see your heat reflecting. You'd probably only get the exterior temperature and the heat from the exhaust. Worth trying though, especially with how affordable FLIR cameras are these days. My CAT S62 smartphone has one built in.

[@pepeyufera97]

@@BillyWitchDoctorDotCom where did u see glass

[@BillyWitchDoctorDotCom]

@@pepeyufera97 I didn't, but because IR cameras can't see through glass I'm not sure if it could see through plastic either.

[@ericlotze7724]

Some Ideas: 1.) Run the engine “fuel rich” so that it can’t burn the plastic as well. 2.) Machine a Graphite Nozzle (and maybe other parts (combustion cylinder, diffuser disk) if that doesn’t work on it’s own) 3) As others have suggested, optimize the coolant loop (better path design, less bubbles, maybe even a faster pump / more volume; a bunch of cool 3d printed pump designs exist too, that could maybe be a video in of itself!) 4) Cool the water down with ice (and maybe even salt water to get it even colder, although I don’t know how that would effect the plastic, and what would happen if it gets in contact with the fire) 5.) Do the vortex cooling as well? (I don’t know much about this method, but it sounds like combining the two may be good!) 6.) Use Gaskets 7.) Use fine metal mesh as a flashback arrestor, or maybe even a commercial flashback arrestor like they use for Oxy-Fuel torches! 8.) Fancier Injector Design to Make Sure you are having things mix well That’s about all the ideas i have, and it was a great video as always!

[@AleksandrEfimov]

Also there's a way to use fine metal shavings (usually bronze) instead of a fine metal net to prevent flashback. This shavings usually look like "metal wool". As I understand, some commercial solutions use this way.

[@maeros-2554]

Also needs dissipation of heat. If the water he's cooling the engine with becomes too hot, then there is no point in using it since it will no longer do it's job. You said ice, and in the end would work similarly, but it would be just as limited, because it's not permanent and the ice will eventually melt. A heatsink/radiator would be the way to go.

[@andrejkrebs]

You can also check out Scott Manley's video on fuel injectors. They're a bit more complicated, but the fuel and oxidizer (or air in this instance) wouldn't mix until they're already in the combustion chamber

[@Craftlngo]

he could also use a wire mesh sieve as flashback arrestor. It's cheap and widely available

[@cmawhz]

I noticed the threaded rods for the spark are going to absorb a lot of heat and cause issues. Maybe they could be inserted from behind or somehow insulate them from the inner chamber wall. Increasing the volume of the water chamber would be a good idea too.

[@minecrafter0505]

Don't forget to vent your cooling loop (so that there are no air bubbles in the loop). That increases the cooling efficiency. Also you can try to utilize the fine internal structures you can create with SLA to create a unibody engine, eliminating the mount which will always be challenging to watercool. You can even do some flow simulations to find the form which best circulates the water without any hotspots. In your current solution the flow seems to not cover the whole engine.

[@kuhljager2429]

This is really important - the bubbles allowing a few hot spots to form probably caused a few of the failures

[@CreeperOnYourHouse]

The parts that failed didn't seem to fail in the places where bubbles would form, i.e. at the top of the part.

[@kuhljager2429]

@@CreeperOnYourHouse when working with high speed flow, bubbles won't form in static locations. They move with the flow, so if you have an aerated intake, the entire flow will have bubbles. It also means that if you fix the intake so it's pulling only water, it will flush bubbles out pretty quick. Some of tests you can see the water flow go clear, and thats what they all needed to be.

[@CreeperOnYourHouse]

@@kuhljager2429 that pump he's using is most definitely not high speed.

[@NORMIES_GET_OUT]

@@JerryBrower I understand this concept when using cryogenic fuel like hydrogen, but I think the expansion ratio of butane might cause some additional problems in this kind of setup. Edit: So butane's liquid to vapor expansion ratio is roughly 1/4 that of hydrogen, so while it's it's significantly lower, it's still 233:1. With thin plastic walls, I think you would still probably run into failures in the wall from gas expansion.

[@quimblyjones9767]

I'm really glad you make these videos as you so, it's super fun and I learn a lot for both you and the comments. Cheers mate P.s don't use liquid butane to cool a fire!! That's really dangerous the amount that's going through!! You could try having it so that the water comes in the bottom and has to take a longer path around the jet, think of a spiral from front to back.. water flowing over every surface. Keep it up! P.P.S a radiator in an ice water bucket would be more effective for cooling then flammable liquids and gasses

[@R.U.anExpert]

You accomplished what I would think impossible. A Combustion Chamber made of plastic/tesin. I'm thoroughly impressed. Thank You for sharing this.

[@Gunbudder]

if the resevoir is higher than the water jacket, it will vastly increase the efficiency of cooling because the air bubbles will be able to travel up to the res and leave the system. that frothy mix of water and air in the water jacket is really bad at conducting heat

[@gavinhicks7621]

Pretty’s sure the cloudyness was resin left over on the inside of the part because you can see at one point in the video the water is clear

[@Rob_TheOne]

Reid valve off a two stroke might work

[@jeremyclarkson6293]

@Gray Man 🅥 you rick rolled me with a clickbait comment and a cat video cringe

[@IlkkaSavilampi]

@Integza: you should build a shredder to destroy all the tomatoes.

[@akshatsingh9830]

1k likes and no comments wow

[@callofdutymobile6487]

Hekker

[@aceof_swordz]

I wish you win

[@ahuman2533]

Kiva

[@rockosgaminglogic]

If it was good enough, it could be marketed for producing yummy tomato paste. Heyy, a water-cooled tomato paste maker. Enjoy your streetmeat hotdog sandwiches while the rest of us enjoy pizza.

[@MrHansen]

Love to see your videos. You do a great job in describing and assembling your projects. Hopefully the water cooled jet will get to the point of complete success.

[@Jankyito]

using butane to cool a combustion chamber is a Darwin award in the making

[@Theking-uy3wu]

I think you should make a nice pair of safety glasses to protect your eyes from exploding plastic jet engines. After that you could look into cooling jet engines with something like liquid nitrogen.

[@Project-Air]

Woah, nice graphics on this one!

[@okithdesilva129]

I love your videos!

[@Heinickens]

What would you think about building your next rocket with an liquid engine. If it is even possible

[@danshul205]

Wanna see your new videos😄

[@cloudfaith7473]

Ok video idea here. This is in theme with jet engines. I know my kids love watching, and I myself love learning about the jet engines on helicopters and how they work to power the copter. Maybe even a combustion propeller idea. Shoot how about a combustion powered resin printed boat. Water cooling baked in. Love your videos and would love to win a machine for my family!

[@kidsandtheircrafts8584]

Oh this would be pretty cool. use the direction of travel for the flow design as well.

[@anotheronefordjkhalid.9340]

@@kidsandtheircrafts8584 platic toy boat with a 3d resin printed JET engine lmao.

[@spencer963]

I was thinking, it might be easier to try a valveless pulse jet design with this water cooling method. I always enjoyed watching your videos, keep up the fantastic work brother!

[@JoelCreates]

Would warm water help keep the resin from being brittle/experiencing some kind of thermal shock from the temperature differential?

[@DrDementia]

Shashumga

[@ultracubes1304]

Maybe, but I think not much

[@lucasschigart2721]

I would say so. I would also apply some basic design concepts of industrial heat exchangers. I have seen some comments hinting on that. But broken down I would say you need a bottom intake and top exit, with some flow direction like he tried with the butan. Ad to that a closed water cycle, a more potent pump and more pressure. Maybe let the cooling agent flow through an additional external heat exchanger to reduce the speed with which heat is building up in the water. For that I would use an air cooler, which, in this case, would be a 3D printed pipe with cooling rips. This would be light weight and easy to implement. Also it extends the duration of the cooling, before the cooling agent gets to hot to do its job properly.

[@integza]

Thats an interesting theory !

[@evilbongwizard2800]

@@integza I would love to see you learn aluminum investment casting.... with the right tools and equipment its actually pretty easy..

[@Radorblack]

I got the impression that the engines might have worked a bit better if you pumped the water in on the bottom and out the top. That way the water would carry all the air out with it as it exit. It seems to me that the engines failed at the top and that might have been because there was little cooling there with all the air trapped in the upper part.

[@NarutoMagicCyclops]

It would help distribute the thermal load for sure but I feel that with the metal base plate heating up as much as it does the melting problem would only be delayed.

[@server642]

@@NarutoMagicCyclops maybe he can 3D print the flanges thicker (edit: and with hollow insides) to watercool the front and rear of where the plate touches lol

[@NarutoMagicCyclops]

@@server642 It's possible especially if he just wants to create the effect of the engine, the bulkiness of such a system and having more failure points would be a headache and half though. Frankly just goes to show how bad plastic/resin is for thermal conductivity and load not to mention how typically brittle the system is to explosive power. Softer plastices might be able to survive a bit better but you'd lose pressure as it wouldn't be stiff enough at that point and theres generally not much you can do about the thermal qualities.

[@alexanderunguez9633]

@@NarutoMagicCyclops Or he could just raise the water reservoir above the engine.

[@TheGoodChap]

Yeah thats how distillation condensers work in a lab

[@davidwood117]

I’d love to see you stay with this one. You are so close to success! I think the metal diffuser is conducting all the heat from the combustion chamber into the flange. You would need to somehow cool the diffuser.

[@sirfirewolfe5647]

Fun fact, some rocket engines are liquid cooled in a way similar to the liquid butane attempt, it's known as Staged Combustion and it also helps with efficiency since it preheats the fuel before ignition.

[@danieldeincognito3579]

Using a flamable gas as a coolant is one of the greatest ideas I ever seen ♥️ love from spain

[@terryendicott2939]

I think that he should use liquid hydrogen.

[@Bladen3t]

there was way too much air in the water cooling loop. at least in the first few trys. I think thats the most likely reason why the last try was so successful. and if you want to improve the cooling further, instead of redicing the wall thickness, try increasing the surface area. adding fins within the water channel would help tremendously. and why not watercool the diffuser as well? get water close to that metal from both sides to keep that one cool as well and I think this could work really well.

[@benfubbs2432]

Because plastic is a thermal insulator so fins wouldn't help they would hinder. The balloon doesn't burst because the layer of plastic between the flame and the water is extremely thin so the plastic makes a poor thermal insulator. With a 3D printed model the plastic is much thicker and so becomes a thermal insulator. The heat cannot conduct through the plastic fast enough to dissipate so one side melts and burns while the other side is cold. Adding fins wouldn't help it would just be adding sections of really thick walls.

[@8-7-styx94]

@@benfubbs2432 I was thinking along the same lines. He needs a better thermal conductor on the interior layers. Something akin to a different thermo-plastic that is more heat conducive. I believe there are some conductive resins he could try or even adding some metal filings to his resin mix would probably be worth a try as well. If he can get that heat in contact with the heat sink then it should, hopefully, work out. =)

[@MidnightMarrow]

Fins work with metal because it conducts heat quickly but also dissipates it. Plastics on the other hand insulate and the thicker it is, the more it builds up and this build up of heat along with it's issue of not wanting to dissipate it is the problem. So the thing is, wall thickness needs to be reduced to next to nothing in which case weakens it in terms of potential pressures generated even if cooling were working at that point.

[@michaeltriggs9387]

The water needs to come up from the bottom to eliminate air pockets.

[@Mike-oz4cv]

The problem here is really the bad heat conductivity of plastic/resin. You can see that any part of the engine which is exposed to hot gas and not in very close proximity to water gets burned.

[@DieselActual]

People used to put butane and explosive fluid in car hvac systems . As soon as you said butane , I had to wait for the fun!!!!

[@alexandermartinez732]

You are a persistent one and for that, I easily give you a sub

[@OmegaSparky]

Very impressive. Two thoughts on improving the design: 1) use hi-temp rtv silicone gasket material between the two halves and the diffuser sheet to seal the leaks. 2) you might consider putting vanes in the water jacket to swirl the water around between the inlet and outlets to make sure you don't have air or steam pockets in your water jacket.

[@clubsoda85cook55]

I would suggest water cooling the defuser.

[@omri.d]

What about lower speed of the water? The ones in the balloon is stationery...

[@omri.d]

Can't the combating chamber be modified to direct the flame out instud to the diffuser?

[@prateekkarn9277]

@@omri.d lowering the speed of water seems worse for heat transfer because of convection. It would maintain higher temperature difference between the source and sink and cool the engine better. But that's my intuition as an engineer. Someone more specialised can speculate and give more advice on the cooling and such

[@samkyrychenko39]

Yeah I was thinking a spiral pipe kinda thing

[@RobertFyall]

Some improvements that I can think of straight away: 1. Make sure the water inlet is from the bottom and therefore has a more continuous area of contact with the resin when under temperature stress. 2. A higher pressure of cooling may be required due to what seems to be melting points happening at the point of one of the cooling in/outlet. Maybe reinforce this area with small vanes to distribute that water evenly. Also maybe get a thermometer to test the temperature of the water in vs out to see how well it is working. 3. Use tomato juice to assert your cooling dominance ;)

[@DUKE_of_RAMBLE]

Actually... Liquid like water (vs compressed gas) should flow from Top to Bottom, because gravity can help out, but also will hopefully help keep air away from the inner walls of any gets trapped/sucked in. Speaking of air, that could be why it was failing on some of those instances, if any was trapped inside. I couldn't quite tell from the footage, but I would suggest: - using a bigger reservoir for starters - filled with ice cubes** - mounting it higher than the engine - have it run for a few minutes before ignition, to make sure all air has been purged from the cooling galleries ** this might not work well, same with any super-chilled liquid like butane or CO2, due to the cold combustion chamber walls getting "shocked" by the heat of the burning fuel; maybe not though, all purely speculation on my part!

[@vincentguttmann2231]

You could use vanes, or you could angle the inlet and outlet to have the water swirl around in a uniform way

[@adamstankus8301]

Yes you should most certainly use tomato blood for cooling. Also the idea of feeding the tomato blood from bottom to top sounds like a good idea too. I think you will have less heat transfer if you use stainless steel screen to prevent flashback of the flame front. Add to that some ceramic slip around the edge as a gasket between the screen and the housing. Oh and then a ceramic nozzle might be useful too. Integza, I love this channel! Your passion and drive are very inspiring. Keep up the great work. I know you will be successful!!!!

[@jhonny94bravo58]

also if he angled the inlet and put a small diffuser in it. it would help the spread of the water

[@the_lomax]

id say a ceramic defuser as well

[@netx421]

I love your stuff man. I know you can learn to weld too. You could also print incredibly thin parts and lost pla cast them🤘

[@FABIZN7]

The moment you took the butane bottle to cool it i was scared 😳 Love the series !

[@illusionarygalaxy]

A simple improvement would be have the water enter from the bottom to the top, other little things is have the water jacket have a larger cavity at the top as well as a larger outlet to allow the heated water and importantly steam to escape easier. The complicated improvement is to have the water enter the chamber to cool internal components as well as using the steam as added thrust mass.

[@cenreaper3221]

➡️Integza: Struggles with the cooling a resin engine. Also Integza: Not even try to see how good heat resistant resin actually is.😁♥️

[@slimsqde7397]

litterally watch any of his other videos, he knows the resin cannot handle the heat

[@zefellowbud5970]

Your whole channel reminds me of some of those engineering challenge or games where you are made to like. Build a solid structure as light and as cheaply as possible. Which is honestly damn cool that its applied to rocket engines. Like if you could make the cheapest rocket work, i assume you would then be able to scale it with better materials?

[@SignorZukini]

Cool video! One idea is to make the plastic flanges hollow in the middle and seal them against the metal plate with o rings. This way the water cooling can also cool the metal plate and stop it from melting the housing.

[@maxfuentes7541]

Next time it would be cool if you tried to recreate the lightsaber from Alex’s lab

[@oscarbull]

And watercool it

[@harmonic5107]

3:53 I was scared for a moment that it was about to explode and blind you. Safety first! Goggles may not save your face, but they'll at least save your eyes. Annnnnd 10:05 I'm not saying this to demean you. I just really love watching your content. Being blind makes engineering harder.

[@midwestreview6382]

Safety squints are not enough please use basic Safety gear

[@cliffordcooley1273]

Usually I don't like all the safety Nazi's in the comments. But this time I am one of them. Combustion, plastic, and no eye protection is makings for a blind here after.

[@CryoSignal]

A face shield is always easy and nice when testing dangerous projects

[@tsugha]

he had safety crocs

[@macsmich8273]

My body cringed at this moment

[@Jave65065]

As a science teacher, I have actually done the balloon demonstration in the classroom before. It is a great way to show the properties of different materials conducting heat! With that same idea, try using a different metal for the joints and defuser, one that has a better heat capacity. That way tbe defuser can get hot but it will not radiate heat to the joints and melt it. I would suggest aluminium.

[@originalni_popisovac]

Other people: Water-Cooled Gaming Pc Integza: Water-Cooled Jet Engine

[@ncot_tech]

Put the water inlet at the bottom and the outlet at the top, pump the water upwards. It'll remove all the bubbles and completely fill the cooling chamber. Your problem could be hot spots forming when the water boils or has bubbles in it. And for a less explosive coolant, try car antifreeze. Although I do like how when the engine fails it puts itself out.

[@Controldo]

What I thinking as well, when he had the inlet on the bottom

[@MidnightMarrow]

You'd want the water being pumped from above since airs natural affinity to rise in water would trap it before makes it to said parts you're trying to cool. Antifreeze inhibits freezing and boiling but you do lose some cooling capacity in doing so. distilled water with a higher flow rate and keeping air out of the cooling chambers is going to do better than antifreeze. That said I think you can use a certain thin additive to prevent boiling without as much effect to the cooling capacity as antifreeze but the issue with antifreeze and other such additives, they may likely damage the plastic as these resins aren't made to be chemically resistant.

[@tharinduranaweera8919]

Hey Integza! Heres something that might help, try offsetting the inlet and exit of the water axially such that it creates a sort of "swirl" flow around the chamber, so that the water evenly distrubutes around the combustion chamber (maybe even a spiraling channel). I noticed a few stagnant water spots on the top side of the chamber, and a rather large air bubble at one point, and I belive that is where the inner wall initially failed. Using offset inlet and exits to create a spiral flow to evenly distribute the (moving) water around the engine would greatly help with that! Also sidenote you are one of my biggest inspirations! I absolutely love your projects!

[@luketorpedo]

This sounds like a really good idea. It could be seen in a few shots the water didn't always do much more than stagnate at the height of the inlet/outlet, so it'd probably help to offset them by 180 as well to try and encourage the flow to get all the way around the chamber.

[@mattberg6816]

This was my thought as well

[@DanishDemon]

A cool idea I could think off is trying out all your differnt engines and seeing which has the most thrust and some different challenges for your engines.

[@DaveNorthWest]

This is bad ass! this means people can print jet engines and use them for RC planes and stuff

[@alexaronson3374]

Instead of using a diaphragm, and the defusing chamber, it may help to have everything water cooled. So if it is printed in one piece with the oxygen being pumped in from the back inside a cone, and the butane being pumped in from the perimeter ~1” away from the back. The gasses should mix well, and you can have water cooling. Also, place the inlet for the water cooling at the lowest point, and the outlet at the highest point of the design, to ensure water equally flows across everything.

[@GoodGeeks]

I would suggest using a steel or brass mesh. It work very well in preventing blowback. We use it all the time in HHO generators.

[@datpudding5338]

Try placing the reservoir above the engine to get the air out better. Also place the water outlet at the top of the engine so the whole compartment is exposed to water

[@ryanryan838]

So as an aerospace propulsion technician I love watching your videos may I suggest you use an axial flow design with about an 80% bypass airflow and a canannular cubustion chamber design use the bypass air to help cool the individual cans. Doing so will divide the the combustion heat into a larger surface area making it easier to cool

[@Pman353]

You should try the lost PLA aluminum casting method! You can 3d print the parts then turn them into aluminum. A forge capable of melting aluminum is very easy to make!

[@owenadair8893]

Great idea, I second this

[@adriankoch964]

Nice idea! The design will still need watercooling, though but might withstand heat a bit better as it conducts better.

[@Pman353]

@@adriankoch964 I wonder if he could use thin copper pipe and imbed it in the cast. The copper shouldn’t melt and that way he doesn’t have to do any fancy casting to create a cavity

[@xxportalxx.]

@@Pman353 sounds like a great idea, I'm not sure how compatible it is with the lost pla method tho

[@dafbafe644]

Maybe you can use a soda can or other metal can as the inner combustion chamber, with the outer 3d printed water cooling jacket keeping it cool

[@404_profile_not_found]

This sounds much more feasible and better able to stand up to thermal shock than resin

[@Red_Eagle]

Integza, to prevent combustion back propagating, you probably need more pressure in your air and fuel intakes! Also, maybe combine this with the ceramic resin?

[@TBloodFPV]

all models leaked initially at the attachment portion. ~ add thick rubber seal on both sides of the metal screen then bolt together. YOUR VIDEO AS ALWAYS IS SO SICK MAN!!! the leak is preventing an efficient startup leading to a partial vaccum adding small portions of fuel to be lost as well as oxygen weakening your startup . the misfires are causing ur heat . AMAZING really when u think of other factor creating the heat - a dam jet of fire!!!! THICKEN the walls at attatchment and add an interior and exterior O ring inside and outside of the bolts to have redundency in your seal! INSANE WORK.

[@danwood1121]

It's really interesting to see how far 3d printing can take these designs. Still get nervous seeing you without even safety glasses when you're testing the rockets, though, lol.

[@LuizBarros99]

The ("cold") water intake for the engine should be from the bottom, and the ("warm/hot") water outlet/output should be from the top. This is how it is done in distillers.

[@pyromoron]

I think that would cause there to be spots where the water is stagnated

[@pyromoron]

I think having it suck out with a pump from the bottom would make it cool fastest

[@alexhansen6220]

It should be cold ingress towards the diaphragm on top, with hot water egress on the bottom at the tail. Otherwise heated is propagating towards the diaphragm instead of away from it. Otherwise great suggestion👍🏻

[@LuizBarros99]

I still think that the "cold intake" should be at the bottom, with the "hot output" being at the highest point. My thinking behind this is that it will allow the water to fill up, and minimize "empty spots"

[@dotnask0001]

You should probably use a material thats more thermoconductive for the inside wall. I would also recommend using a compressor for the butane gas. From the burnt areas on the resin you can see the butane falls to the bottom instead of igniting.

[@peterpetersen6622]

Congrats Integza! You build yourself a butan powered gas heater! But also an Idea: put steelwool in front of the metall diaframe. It is used in gas welders for example, and it prevents gas knockback. So it would prevent in your case, that the explsoion goes back into your diffuser. Therefore the stress on it is lower, and there is less heat. Also you could than also cool the steelwool, and therefore prevent the joint from melting. Sorry for my englisch, I'm from germany.

[@samhoff1724]

I think the reason why you're getting on/off combustion is lack of airflow. Combustion needs a lot of air, and that air needs to behave correctly (not too fast or it'll blow out the flame). The first change I'd suggest is a system to convert air from a compressor to what goes into the engine.

[@W00FLES]

Can I just say, from my experience of doing a VERY similar thing with butane.... you are SO lucky that ended like THAT..... It evaporates very quickly but you could have had the biggest fireball you've ever experienced in your life inside your shop right there lol..... Glad you're safe man!

[@MonteFleming]

I was totally expecting a huge fireball.

[@darthdiamo6902]

Not to mention the fact he wasn't wearing any type of eye protection! Integza is lucky it ended the way it did.

[@W00FLES]

@@darthdiamo6902 Facts! Every time I avoid death or serious injury I kind of just sit there for a sec and go "welp, not gonna do THAT ever again"...Anyone who either works in a dangerous line of work or just tends to make generally stupid decisions on a regular basis knows that we take these luck endings with pride and LEARN from them lol.

[@darthdiamo6902]

@@W00FLES yeah for real. Sadly I have a feeling Integza isn't going to learn, at least not from this close call.

[@BillyWitchDoctorDotCom]

Nah, gasoline makes the big boy fireballs

[@squishthatcat8808]

something u could try is to put a lot of small coonections between the inner and outher wall of the combustion-chamber. that should make it more durable and spread the pressure from the explosions. maybe u could imcrease the cooling effectiveness by adding some groves in the waterchamber to direct the waterflow. sorry for potential misspellings, english isn`t my 1st language;)

[@christiancoding]

I'd really love if you'd make tutorial about how to create 3d designs or maybe some basics on jet engines,etc.

[@MrRoufles]

You can improve the cooling eficiency with the inlet and outlet tangential to the chamber. Give them an offset to have a virtual cooling coil. The water will have more speed and take more heat. For the video Idea, I've always being curious about cyclocopters. You can 3D print 90% of the parts and they are a bit unknown

[@andreadsrs]

Video ideia: "I 3D printed rocket nozzles to better water my garden!" Would be awesome to see you print the differents types off rockets nozzle and even the engines from previous videos and adapt it to the end of a hose, so we could see witch one is better to water a garden: the Aerospike nozzle, the De Laval nozzle, maybe something like a Golden Ration nozzle (will the water go all directions because of the shape of it?), maybe a Dyson Fan nozzle? And you could use 1L of water all times, to see not only the further it can go, but witch one use less water

[@andreadsrs]

Which one could shoot longer jets? Which one produces a bigger water cone? Can any one produce a better flow of water without turbulent water? Stuff like that

[@benjaminsteakley]

Fascinating

[@yuribochkarev4477]

try adding graphite or aluminum oxide to the resin to increase the heat resistance of the resin. or try adding copper powder as well to increase the thermal conductivity of the structure

[@Clement-xy9iv]

You should make the inside wall out of thin sheet metal, it would be thin and conductive enough to get cooled down quickly enough by the water, and it would also be much more resistant to the exploision pressure, it should also be pretty easy to make with simple tools.

[@paulbrouyere1735]

You can use a tin can

[@Jonas_Wirth]

I think it would work if you used something like a soda can / tin can for the inner layer, it's way stronger and has better thermal conductivity on top of being a lot thinner.

[@Bl4ckD0g]

That's a good idea. The combustion chamber wall definitely needs to be thinner and I just don't see resin transferring heat well enough to work in this project.

[@0NK3LS4T4N]

Keep it steady in another nozzle by waterflow pressure

[@ryandraper8525]

Hi Integza, 🍅. Perhaps you need to create the water cooling to all parts of the engine. The metal plate inside will always heat up and conduct its heat to the edges and melt the resin. If all parts were printed with the thin layer cooled, and the water pumped independently to each part, hopefully this could help to keep all areas at roughly the same temperature. The metal shield part could be printed with channelled holes passing through, but still allowing the water to pass through as well to cool the surface. Also, the water may be being pumped too fast to efficiently collect and remove the heat from the resin surface, perhaps by slowing the rate of flow to each part independently, you can more effectively find the flow rate required to effectively remove the heat. Love your programs, dont give up on this one, i think you are nearly there. 👍

[@darbyhol5228]

Crome plating the interior of the engine could help with heat transfer and resist the resin burning more. I saw a video a while back on metal plating 3d prints to make them stronger but the metal could also help hold the heat more evenly letting the cooling system do a more efficient job on the engine. I also think cooling the front of the diffuser would probebly help but yeah. Thats my only thought for future videos. Your definitely smarter than I on rocket science integza

[@lynx348]

Try keeping air out of the water. Air is way more insulating than water, so it is working against you. Also, using small flaps or hairs in the engine where the water flows would increase the surface area of water touching the engine, thus increasing the cooling speed. Edit: grammar Edit: I was thinking of vacuum insulation, not air

[@techhome6362]

I agree with the of removing air pockets. I think flow should be as laminar as possible to maxime heat transfer. But i think adding flaps will introduce cavitation. Reducing laminar flow and creating air pockets.

[@danielconners9455]

This will work if he bleeds the system

[@lynx348]

@@danielconners9455 as long as the system is closed off from air, it shouldn't make air pockets, but it would introduce more turbulent flow. Increasing the surface area is how radiators work and is also one of the ways car engines dissipate heat through aluminum sheets.

[@piotrsz4422]

Idea for future video: Hey Integza. Make combustion chamber from aluminium can, watercool it. Just 3d print outer casing. To make a nozzle you can use metal garden coupler.

[@piotrsz4422]

@@OfficialIntegza nice scam

[@vorlon010]

I would expect 2 primary causes of interior surface failure. First, changes in coolant pressure due to the heating (the outlet being the same size as the inlet meaning the most it can eject is the pressure in+the max pressure of the coolant chamber) - meaning if you exceed the coolant chamber pressure you burst the sidewall. Second, the coolant doesn't seem to be at a constant pressure throughout the chamber - if instead of just a flooded jacket, you had a spiral of water channels around the combustion chamber, along with a bigger bore out-pipe, you might have more luck. A third possibility is that you're getting steam bubbles in the coolant chamber, which I predict would act a bit like a negative void coefficient in a nuclear reactor - the steam can't absorb the heat as much, so the area aroudn the bubble overheats and you get a fracture. A possible alternative would be to mimic an old water cooled machine gun and have an assymetrical water jacket, biased to the top of the combustion chamber. This means it has room for gas expansion (and possibly a blow-off valve) plus the pressure around the chamber can self regulate a bit.

[@MisterDeets]

Make everything a single monolithic print including a water-cooled diffuser. Add drain holes from the outside of the engine if necessary to keep the print from failing due to suction. You can fill those holes with plugs etc once you get the uncured resin cleaned out.

[@cheyennewhoops191]

A great idea would be to actually test all your rockets like with a thrust measurer to find the best one and then try to make a controllable vehicle with it maybe a miniature car.

[@tsinquisition3455]

Make a jet powered water pistol. Summer is getting closer Integza, we don't want to be unprepared.

[@JohnboyCollins]

Cool to see you branching into more advanced cooling techniques. Metal rocket engines are able to tolerate heat way beyond the melting temperature of the metals they are made of, so similarly effective cooling aught to be possible with plastic. I wonder if you could find a printing technique that mimics "ablative cooling" by building the rocket out of layers of plastic that are designed to blow off as they heat up. Similarly for regenerative cooling, film cooling, etc.

[@thecrazy8888]

The Apollo rocket's engines were made of square tubes welded together. Its fuel ran through those to cool the engine AND preheat the gas which improves performance. You could make something similar by lining the inside with a coil of brass or copper tube and pass water/fuel through it. Steel would be better, and make sure there is no gap between each turn of the coil. You could try brazing it. Also, add an anti backflow valve (gas rated) in the fuel line (before the coil) before trying to heat your fuel and to test the fuel path between the valve up to the injectors to make sure it resists high pressures. (and use proper shielding for your life). If pressure builds up too high in the coil, you need to add fuel paths to shorten the coil's length. (multiple coils, side by side).

[@normalostrich6250]

An idea or two: Make a path that the water has to travel around the engine so it is always moving the water around every part equally. You can also pipe the water around the diffuser and run it around like with the engine to keep it cooled. By using small walls to control the water, you also increase the strength to of the engine compared to the no walls design. Another part of this would be to make a bump from wall to wall to increase the surface area the water is in contact with, increasing the amount of heat it can pull away at any given point in time. Edit: the problem that happened with the butane was that it doesn’t have a high specific heat meaning it was turning into a gas in the inner walls thus expanding and busting through to the inner engine to then expand again. The reason why water is good for cooling is not only that it conducts heat well but also stores heat until it can leave the system. The water wasn’t vaporizing so it can probably be in the system for a longer time than it was here to keep cooling the system.

[@RxXxDevin]

Your 3d printed jet engines are one of my favorite things to watch on KZbin. Have you ever thought about trying to 3d print a working Stirling engine?

[@danielhillis823]

Try mixing the fuel/oxygen inside of the combustion chamber. To prevent it from flowing backward into your diffuser, your flow has to be faster than the flame propagation which is hard. Modern rocket motors don’t mix the fuels/oxidizer until they’re ready for it to actually go bang 🔥

[@ryanverkamp9949]

Future Idea: Here me out. You should try to make a jet engine powered remote control car, or even better, a go kart.

[@jbirdmax]

I have an idea. Have your viewers send in their own rocket designs in an FTL file, review them and make a show where you compare the best ones.

[@ikitclaw7146]

The fan showdown but for jet engine designs, i fully support this idea! people online come up with some crazy ways to do things and some work really well.

[@jbirdmax]

@@ikitclaw7146 that show is exactly what I’m talking about. Thank You for mentioning it. I checked it out and it’s so amazing! I’m only on the eighth episode, but I’m binging on it right now. I absolutely love the creativity.

[@jeanad9039]

You could try making a device to always have a stochiometric ratio for your combustion, so you can more focus on the engine itself rather than trying to make the mixture correct at each try. Btw love all your videos, keep it up!

[@kebha6308]

Stoichiometric burn is not ideal when you are fighting combustion chamber overheating; stoich burns too hot. Rocket engines, for example, basically never run stoichiometrically.

[@dainross5321]

@@kebha6308 I thought stoichiometric reactions just had low amounts of biproducts. Yes that means more heat, but it increases efficiency and much more importantly stability. If fluctuation between the amount of reactants and products changes constantly, you get the explosions at the start where not enough butane gas flow is occurring. This results in all the butane combusting and flashback, causing the diffuser to experience heat and pressure spikes.

[@danielconners9455]

Not necessarily a stoichiometric burn but a set regulator assembly to allow simple on off operation

[@sezylrin4138]

@@kebha6308 assuming you arent running stoichiometric burns, doesnt different nozzle sizes, nozzle angle, chamber sizes all effect the desired ratio of reactions?

[@kebha6308]

@@sezylrin4138 not at the pressures you see in rocket and jet engines. I mean, all those factors should have a small effect (look at the Saturn V F-1 engines having combustion instability due to its size) but it's not a death sentence for the engine at all. Altitude should be the biggest differentiator in FAR in turbo engines that don't have their own oxidizer. His fuel flow and air intake system just isn't sufficient.

[@ericgoldman7533]

Two recommendations to improve the design- 1. Design the coolant cavity with a spiral path, ensuring that it flows uniformly over the surface you are trying to cool (this is exactly how the Space Shuttle cooled its engine nozzles with the liquid fuel, in fact). 2. Use silicone, or similar heat-resistant insulative material, to seal any interfaces between parts, _espeically_ those between metal and plastic parts.

[@FireOnYouTube]

in the 7:00 ish design, the water should be going upward. This will ensure that no air bubbles create and that the hot water (going up) is leaving the system first. It's the chemistry way of cooling something. This means water entering from the bottom and leaving from the top. Nice vid !!

[@Turt3zyKSP]

for another video, I think you should make another Hybrid motor. as you've had issues with the whole melting thing I'd recommend making an ablative liner for the throat and nozzle. if you look up halfcatrocketry, they have one that isn't too difficult to make called CHAMBERAFE. also, if you go looking there's a good few things that can help you find an ideal throat area for a given chamber pressure. with hybrids, your chamber pressure and thus overall thrust can vary substantially due to the burning rate of the grain and its geometry, Rocket Propulsion elements by George Sutton and Oscar Biblarz has some good resources to help with this and stuff for basically everything else I've mentioned so far. I hope everything continues to go well for you and have a nice day! thanks for the amazing videos

[@hoyschelsilversteinberg4521]

You could add a small radiator, maybe a 120mm radiator at the start of the jet engine to suck in air and use that to cool the water. Over time this water will heat and the intake will be hotter, this will make the engine more efficient as less fuel will be needed to attain the same combustion given the temperature difference will be less. Also add ribs to the passage way that the water coolant flows through to increase surface area.

[@InservioLetum]

you look SO much better without the moustache!!

[@SecondClassCitizen]

I love watching your channel and have watched multiple times your journey on a 3d printed jet engine. What if you made the diaphragm out of something other than metal, you already know a direct flame wont burn a balloon, use that as the diaphragm.

[@depressed_neutron]

I have a suggestion: Why not feed the butane from the outlet of the cooling system back into the combustion chamber since most of the liquid butane would've turned to gas at that point(the butane can be used as both fuel nad collant!). most of the rocket engines which use cryogenic fluids as fuel use this technique to cool the nozzle down

[@fireballmx]

Love this water-cooled design - now you should try to increase the cooling surface area within the water channel (ribs/ridges etc)... and maybe consider a heat exchanger to lower the temp of the cooler/working fluid?

[@arturjogi2667]

This already has the best possible cooling for the engine, plastic is less conductive than the water, so using ribs or ridges would only make it less effective. The water in the bowl has enough thermal capacity that its probably not even heating up more than a few degrees with each test, and you could solve even that by just taking a larger bucket.

[@yourfriend3020]

That's really very cool engine

[@jojoecr7626]

You could design the whole defuser-chamber convo to be butane cooled, and use the butane as the fuel.

[@jojoecr7626]

If cooling the chamber is too harsh, you can always make it bigger. More surface area, less pressure.

[@pierretessier5137]

Hey Integza, nice job! Just a very simple idea about the coolant: try having the water flow from the bottom to the top part of your nozzle. That way you are making sure to always have the coolant compartment full of water and you avoid all the trapped air bubbles you had in the video (the same way it's being done with coolant in chemistry). Looking forward to the next one!

[@justone12]

Was just going to say the same, you either make the flow go against gravity or place an orifice on the exit to restrict the flow and make sure the water doesn't run faster than the pump can push

[@thesynncOFC]

Hi Integza, nice video. Maybe using starlight as it protected from heating the metal with the combustion chamber. It should solve the metal heating problem. Hello from Brazil 🇧🇷😀

[@johnweller6318]

running your water from the top of the combustion chamber to the bottom will help with the heat distribution. also try to cool the plates holding the metal diffuser and possibly make it smaller than the full circumference of the two chambers so if it does continue to melt the plastic its not melting all the way through to the bolts and blows the seal. I love what you do and really enjoy your content thank you!!! on your next video id like to see you upgrade this design.