Waxing Waxless XC Skis

[@KrisHettich]

Hi Tom. I didn't see a better way to reach out, but wanted to say: my family has been hiking and camping for a long time and this year (like everyone else, it turns out) we decided to extended our hiking season with new cross country ski gear for everyone (4 kids, 2 adults). Being newcomers, I deeply appreciate your candid approach to discussing gear, techniques, tips, etc. You are a refreshingly honest and humble voice in a world full of too much marketing and machismo/adrenaline. Thank you for your videos, thank you for helping make this accessible, and maybe we'll see you on the trail someday. (PS - my wife and I opted for S-Bound 98s and Excursion 88s based largely on your setup - we *love* them and have found them a very natural transition from very occasional alpine skiing in the past.)

[@tomm9850]

Thank you so much for the kind words. Wow, that is a lot of gear all at once, but I can't think of anything more wholesome and fun than a family outing on cross country skis. One of the great things about off trail cross country skiing is that you can make it an easy outing, or one full of adventure. The more you get out, the more skills you will pick up, and for me, it never gets old.

[@mousetek]

I am new to the XC world (and skis in general tho been snowshoeing for a long time). Thank you for a great video. Love your calm and friendly approach to teaching about this. Learning waxing with all of the nuances, wax types, methods etc... can be overwhelming for us newbies, but this was a very informative and helpful video where I didn't feel lost like other videos I've seen.

[@tomm9850]

I'm glad you found it helpful. I appreciate the kind words and encouragement. Have fun and be safe.

[@bobouzala]

Nice job Tom! I looked around on KZbin for over an hour until I finally found your video. I am exclusively looking for waxing waxless skis, something I’ve done for all my cross-country waxless skis. I like to get a base coat on the tips and tails and then ski with some glide wax when things start slowing down. Thanks for the technical details I definitely needed them!

[@tomm9850]

Glad it was helpful! Hope you are having a great snow season.

[@donready119]

In Ontario, we get a lot of very wet snow. The fishscale will often ice up. I always wax the fishscale with a paste and also iron in glide wax everywhere. Some grip is lost but the glide is incredible. My 30 year old Karhu Catamounts became useable again.

[@tomm9850]

Warm wet snow on top of old cold snow is always a problem. That can occur when the sun starts to warm up the top layers and I'm breaking a trail. Luckily it doesn't happen all that often in my area. I always carry a scraper and some liquid wax with just in case I need it while skiing. Julie also has a 30 plus year old set of Karhu Odysseys that she skis on occasion. Thanks for tuning in and I hope you have a great winter season in Ontario.

[@albertzygmunt8720]

Thank you so much. This was really helpful.

[@tomm9850]

I'm glad you found it helpful. Thanks for tuning in and have a have a great winter

[@curtl1694]

Howdy Tom, great info. One quick tip, highly recommend you try Dominator rub on wax ( Butter, Race Rocket) . Lasts way longer than Swix liquid or paste waxes and you can even use their rub on wax on scales. Very high quality product and excellent customer service plus their wax is made in US. Butter is high floro for spring sticky conditions which dominator removes the pfo so it’s safe. Race Rocket you have old and new snow overlay. The over lays can be used over a hard wax. Another plus is the rub on bars will last you several years because you need very little for application. They also have non floro rub on over lays. Check them out! You will be surprised on their performance!

[@tomm9850]

I haven't tried the Dominator line of waxes, but I will have to look into them. Just be careful if you are using high fluoro waxes.

[@molmer2380]

Thanks Tom. Just started using maxiglide so the point of leaving on overnight then buffing is a great tip. 👍

[@tomm9850]

I just picked up a new batch of Maxiglide this winter and the formula seems to have changed from what I have been using. The new batch appears to have more body (fewer volatiles) is light yellow in color (the one in this video is white). I hope it works as well. Thanks for tuning in and have a great ski season.

[@rohansyer9388]

Hey Tom. Interested in your comment on a technique I use on pattern base skis. Using a lint free fabric (moleskin in my case) soaked in wax, applied with iron on top, tip to tail, even runs across pattern base - at speed that does not leave too much wax or effect pattern. Does not leave hot wax in pattern as fabric retains dripping liquid form that a bare iron does not. Seems to work brilliantly. Cheers.

[@tomm9850]

I've not tried that technique. I've known people who hot wax the crown pattern and avoid filling in the dips by dusting cold wax powder or shavings over the pattern followed by the hot iron. II'll have to give your technique a test run next winter. Thanks for posting your waxing tips and have a great week. :)

[@rohansyer9388]

@@tomm9850 PS - its not just my method. I always though it must be industry standard. It was passed to me from an old expert who ran a ski shop for some 50 years or more. Method is time tested. Maybe try it before next season and let people know your results. It also conserves wax and prevents contact between metal base of iron and synthetic base of ski. cheers

[@nataliebrooks5535]

Love your videos. Thank you for the time you put into sharing your knowledge. This past weekend we were just searching the internet for tips on waxing and were so pleased to see you post this video today!

[@tomm9850]

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for tuning in and I hope you are having a great ski season.

[@rhyndman]

So helpful. Thanks Tom.

[@tomm9850]

Glad it was helpful!

[@BushtreckBoosh]

Awesome waxing video Tom. I just hot waxed my skis today with my fathers old non-electric waxing iron. It has a built in thermometer that goes from 0-3, so it took a bit of guesswork with the temperature; but besides that, I stuck to your instructions and everything went smoothly.

[@tomm9850]

Fantastic. Let me know how they ski.

[@BushtreckBoosh]

@@tomm9850 Will do. Hoping to get out tomorrow. They're kind of a strange ski, very short and with a built in climbing skin.

[@salty_berserker_channel]

As long as the wax is melting easily but not smoking you are good to go

[@LuxJoseph]

This was so helpful! Thank you. My 8-year old son was so discouraged his first time out in a used pair. He was basically "snow shoeing". Also, where are you during your intro!? The vista was so beautiful!

[@tomm9850]

The intro was shot in Grand Teton National Park in Northwest Wyoming USA. Glide wax will sure help if the snow was sticking to the bottom of his skis. It is also a good idea to carry a scraper on your ski outing to scrape off ice that can sometimes form on the bottom of the ski if a warm ski touches cold snow.

[@jgauth2]

Definitely will try using wax paste on all my bindings after this- Nordic OR alpine touring

[@christopherdaniel4841]

Good information. Thanks!

[@tomm9850]

Glad it was helpful!

[@backpacker-in-Asia]

Tom, do you use a chemical remover to remove any remaining wax before applying new wax to your skis, or do you just use a brush?

[@tomm9850]

I've used the Swix Base cleaner in the past to remove klister wax and other sticky kick waxes on traditional skis, but I don't use it for my skis which have only had glider wax applied. I tend to only apply wax when the base indicates that it is in need of wax. The liquid and paste waxes don't last all that long, so I may apply a new coat after every ski outing. The glider wax that I iron into the base lasts much longer and I usually wait until it is worn off before applying it again. Ski racers and others who are looking for maximum wax performance from their skis would probably give very different advice as it is a science all on to its own. For me, I just keep it simple.

[@Nathaniel13095]

Interesting. My great challenge is to keep snow from sticking to the fishscales, on warmer days. Liquid wax applied in the field helps, but often lasts no more than a mile. I've tried applying hot wax to the patterned area by melting it, soaking it in a warm rag, and quickly applying while it is still liquid--high risk of burning the fingers that way. But you can't scrape the fishscales... I'm not sure this procedure helps with glide, and it probably reduces grip for climbing. But I'm desperate. Any better ideas are welcome.

[@tomm9850]

In my experience, snow clumping on the bottom of the ski under the foot is a problem that can occur equally on waxible and "waxless" skis. The usual culprit is a warm layer of surface snow on top of a very cold layer of soft snow. In this circumstance, the skis become cold enough to instantly freeze any warm wet snow that it comes into contact with. The worst scenario under these conditions is breaking trail, because the skier is moving slowly through the snow and the cycle of the ski passing through these layers freezes the snow to the ski. I wish I had a good solution, but there is nothing that I know of that will eliminate it entirely. Glide waxing the skis with a liquid or paste wax does help. Here are a few things that I do to minimize the frustration. As I'm skiing along and start to notice a buildup on the bottom of the ski, I will try and dislodge it with what I call a "tromp kick" This is basically stomping the ski down hard as you push it forward. This usually works, but only for a while, then you have to repeat the process as it builds up again. If the "tromp kick" won't dislodge the snow, then I do what I call the "edge ski scrape". I stop, roll the ski on one foot toward the outside. I then rotate the other ski 45 degrees across the top of the rolled ski, and move it back and forth, so the snow can be scraped from the bottom. The bottom of one ski is scraped on the top edge of the other ski. I then do the same process for the other ski. Some might cringe at the idea of running the bottom of one ski across the top edge of the opposite ski (because of the metal edge contact), but this technique works very well. If all that fails, then I remove the ski, use a hand scraper to remove the snow, dry the base as best as I can, then apply another coat of glide wax. I always carry a scraper, a small tin of Swix glider paste, and a small dry rag with me on all backcountry ski outings. One thing that I have found is that the paste and glide waxes last a little bit longer if applied the day before skiing, as I think some of the volatile components evaporate. Anyway, there are just some conditions that can frustrate all backcountry skiers, and this is one of them.

[@Nathaniel13095]

@@tomm9850 Didn't know it was called a "tromp kick" but man, have my shins ached after a few hours of doing that! It's hard to predict when you'll really need it, but I should try to apply in advance, as you suggest. Glad to know I'm not the only one with these problems, and that it is not just my waxless skis.

[@tomm9850]

I don't know what the correct technical term is, but that is what I call it. Wax skis also have this issue if the user has too soft of a wax for the conditions.

[@JK-dq3pj]

Great video Tom! How often do you apply wax, or is just something you do when you notice the skis aren’t gliding as well?

[@tomm9850]

I've found that the liquid and paste waxes are good for about one outing (half day of skiing) and I typically apply a very thin layer to the skis after drying them down when I return. That way the skis will be ready to go the next time I use them, and it gives the liquid/paste wax some time to "cure" and bond to the base of the ski. If the tips and tails have been hot waxed, I'll hot wax them again when the surface of the ski starts to take on a grey tone (black base). For the traction pattern, I always apply paste wax when I put the skis away. There is one exception. If I know that my next ski outing will require the use of mini skins right from the car, I won't apply a liquid wax on the ski. The skins don't adhere too well to fresh liquid or paste wax, but will adhere just fine after skiing for about a half hour. You could also use the same rule for when to apply a paste or liquid wax, apply when the back base start to take on a grey tone, but for my area, that would be after about a half day's use. If you have a base that is not black, look for a chalky appearance to the surface as a clue to when to reapply wax.

[@garykuzminski7969]

Thank you, sir.

[@tomm9850]

You are welcome and have a great ski season.

[@Hisa1shi]

Hey Tom! Your videos are great! They convinced me to pick up a pair of S-Bound 98's. I'm just across the border of Idaho in Missoula. Do you have any tips for how to find good areas to backcountry ski? I'd love to find rolling hills like the ones in your videos so I can learn to telemark turn.

[@tomm9850]

I've never done any skiing in the Missoula area, but there is a very good chance that someone over on the www.telemarktalk.com forum can give you a few suggestions. Check it out and post the same question there, I'm sure you will get some response.

[@sachadee.6104]

As an alpine skier I've been watching a lot of youtube video's trying to learn this 'new' type of skiing (for me). You're video's are of great help to me. I envy your back country, it's so beautiful. I'm in the rolling hills of New Brunswick Canada, so I think that a pair of Rossignol EVO OT65 would suit my needs, the very narrow 50 mm are a challenge off track. Unfortunately I'm unable to buy them as they seem to have been sold out EVERYWHERE. The waxing part still confuses me. Why would you scrape it off at all, won't it work better when you would actually leave the product on?

[@tomm9850]

When you scrape a glider hot waxed ski base down to the ptex, most of the excess wax is removed, and the wax that is left behind remains in the pores and imperfections. If you don't scrape off the excess wax, the wax left on the ski will have small ridges that can grip on the snow surface. The wax will eventually wear off, but the skis will be slower until most of the wax is removed from the surface. Scraping to the base is only applicable to glider waxes that have been applied with an iron. Grip waxes on traditional XC skis are smoothed out, but not scraped to the base.

[@sachadee.6104]

@@tomm9850 Thanks for the explanation; Never did I thought of ski surface having pores, or that glider wax would be able to slow the ski down (when too much of it is there). Keep up the nice and informative videos.

[@bruliet]

Thanks again Tom.

[@tomm9850]

You are welcome. Thanks for tuning in

[@mujin70]

Where do you get the harder waxes you mentioned? Perhaps, the packaging has changed for the Toko product you demonstrated. I also couldn't read the name of the the first one you showed. The green rollon looking one. Thanks!

[@tomm9850]

Yes, a lot of my wax products are pretty old. I'm sure the packaging has changed. The hard waxes that I use for hot waxing are products sold for skate skiing. If I didn't have skate skis, I'd probably just buy some "downhill ski or snowboard wax". It is probably easier to find and I'm sure it would work just fine. If you don't have a local source, check out the waxes available from REI. I probably have a larger assortment of glider waxes than what is needed for off trail backcountry skiing, but it's due the nature of skate skiers always seeking maximum glide. The green rub on wax is Dakine High Octane Rub on All Temperature Wax. The Yellow rub on wax is Toko Express Rub on Wax www.toko.ch/en/wax-tools/glide-wax/product/show/express-rub-on/

[@mujin70]

@@tomm9850 Thanks so much. As I was skiing today(mostly back country), I thought of what you said as my skis seemed to lose their wax coating after about an 1.5 hours. I put the the Maxiglide on. I'm still a newbie, but I was thinking I needed to look into seeing if some waxes "stay on" longer than others. Loved your video on turning. Very useful. Your point about every day being different and not to obsess over the perfect form has helped me a lot as I try to improve.

[@paulblichmann2791]

Do you ever attempt to fill in fishscale areas that you think are dragging, ie shorten the kick zone?

[@tomm9850]

You can use an iron and a very hard glider wax to shorten the grip zone. I have not done this myself but I have known others who have. If you want a permanent reduction in traction you might be able to lightly sand the fishscales to make them less aggressive. The traction pattern wears down after several seasons of use, and a light sanding with a very fine grit would mimic that, so keep that in mind. I've have also heard of people using petex and a scraper to make a permanent modification to a few inches at the front and the back to shorten the traction pattern. It would take some experimentation to get just the right amount of reduction, so start with a very short length and give it a ski test. Post back if you have some success and let us know what type of skis you have, you total ski weight, ski length, and the type of snow you normally ski.

[@achilles514]

Great video, Tom! As another person mentioned, there is some anxiety around certain hot wax fumes, particularly fluoro. Do you know if current practice suggests using a respirator when applying hydrocarbon or low fluoro wax? I’ve been waxing my skis with hydrocarbon hot wax and low fluoro forever, just curious if you’d heard any definitive well reputable advice on the matter.

[@tomm9850]

I'm no expert in this area and I have always just hot waxed my skis without any protection. Here is an interesting read skiracing.com/whats-the-deal-with-fluoro-wax/ I do know that they have had special ventilation systems in the wax trailers on the Nordic circuit for a long time, and most recommend hot waxing be done in a well ventilated area. I do my waxing in the garage. That being said, if you already own a respirator that you use for spray painting or pesticides, what would be the harm in putting it on if you are hot waxing .

[@achilles514]

@@tomm9850 One of the simple pleasures is the wonderful smell of hot wax! I just love smelling it in the garage. I might wear a respirator but I’m not the ski techs from that data that we’re waxing 15 hours a day... thanks for the reply and link!

[@vatiammatri2660]

Thx, very helpful!

[@tomm9850]

Glad it helped!

[@radioyankee]

exactly what I needed. thanks

[@tomm9850]

Glad it helped!

[@amylewis7056]

Hi Tom, this may be a small thing, but I noticed after you applied the paste wax you did not wipe it down with your cloth afterwards. Was this intentional or did it just not make it in the video? Would the paste wax just be left to dry with no further finishing? I am brand new to cross country skiing and your videos have been really helpful. I eventually would like to go the hot wax method, but for now I am considering either the paste or rub on. Thanks so much!

[@tomm9850]

A thin layer of liquid or paste is all that is required. Any excess will make the ski a bit slower, but only for a short distance, as the snow will remove any excess that remains on the ski. If you want the fastest ski right from the start, you can wipe and polish the ski from tip to tail after some of the volatiles evaporate from the liquid wax. I just use a lint free cloth, but they do sell polishing pads specific for liquid glide waxes, but I have never used one. tokous.com/dual-pad/ I usually wax my skis the night before, then polish the skis with a soft lint free cloth in the morning, but most people only wait 10 or 15 minutes, depending on the room temperature. My garage is pretty cold most of the time, so it takes longer for the liquid wax to cure. The solid rub on glider waxes should be smoothed out with a cork, and some of the harder rub on waxes can also be polished with cloth, pad or brush.

[@amylewis7056]

@@tomm9850 Excellent! Thanks Tom...I really appreciate your help!

[@gremlin7599]

Before waxless skis, didn't you use kicking wax in the center, and glide wax on the front and back tips? Versus now you just have to do the glide wax on the tips and the fishscale in the middle will take care of the center? Therefore, by switching to modern 'waxless' skis, the manufacturers saved us half the battle? Do I have that totally wrong?

[@tomm9850]

Some people who ski traction patterned skis are quite happy to ski them without applying wax and I'm sure they work just fine, but glide wax does reduce friction and makes for a better experience. Most people who ski waxible skis take pride in their ski preparation as it is part science and part magic, and there is nothing that skis as well as a properly waxed ski. Waxless skis on the other hand eliminate much of the frustration of skiing a ski that is improperly waxed or having to change the wax two or three times over the course of a day as the temperatures and conditions change from morning to afternoon.

[@gremlin7599]

@tomm9850 when people had what you call a "waxable" ski, I presume that has zero fishscale and is the same material and texture along the entire length of the ski? Was I correct, that to wax a waxable ski you needed two different kinds of wax, one for the middle and one for the tips? Rather interestingly, I was looking at some surplus US military XC skis recently, Presumably they were of relatively recent manufacture, I think the past 20 years or so, and I believe they had no fishscsle or anything. They were what I think you just called 'waxable' If there's one thing I know about the junior enlisted, they probably aren't waxing their waxable skis the exact proper way. I would speculate so at least

[@tomm9850]

Traditional XC skis have a smooth base composed of a plastic material designed to hold on to ski wax. XC ski waxes are designed to provide both grip and glide when properly applied. Ski waxes are temperature rated, the harder waxes appropriate for cold snow and the softer waxes for warmer snow. Waxing for recreational skiing does not have to be all that complicated and many people I know just use a one wax method, applying a thin layer of wax on about the middle third of the ski and then corking it down before skiing. If the wax doesn't have enough grip, then they either apply a bit more wax, extending the waxed zone, or they apply a softer wax over the top of their existing wax. If the wax has too much grip and not enough glide, then one typically scrapes the wax off the ski and then reapplies a harder wax. Swix sells a starter kit that comes with 3 waxes, a scraper and a cork. The three waxes, V55 Red Special, for use on warm snow around 32 F; V45 Violet Special, for snow temps 21 to 32°F; and V40 Blue, for snow temps 10 to 28°F. These three waxes cover a typical temperature range and would work for most recreational skiers. The tips and the tails of the ski can be hot waxed at home with a glider wax once or twice a season, depending on how often and how far one skis, but just like with traction based skis, this is optional, and many recreational skiers mainly wax underfoot for grip. www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/grip-waxing-crosscountry-skis.html

[@miramikes]

Hi Tom, inspired by this video I bought paste wax from Toko, but it is thick substance compare to soft paste wax you are using in video. It might be because of time spend in store or it is just like this ... Don't know. Is there any way to make it softer? Add some solvent?

[@tomm9850]

I don't think I would add a solvent. You might try to warm it up and see if that helps, but if not, then it is probably best to discard it and buy some fresh glider.

[@karensheffler773]

My waxless skis are really worn down and sliding back or to the side on me. Lost good kick zone and lost any traction. Can I remake the groves or have someone remake the fish scales? Or should I pretend they are waxed skis and use grip wax now over old fish scales? I would put on right grip wax per temperature and conditions. I love these metal edge skis and want to keep them.

[@tomm9850]

First of all, congratulations for wearing out a pair of skis. That is an accomplishment for sure. By all means, add a little bit of grip wax to help with the kick. I'd start with about 1/2 of the traction zone and see how that goes at first, then adjust up or down in length until you find the optimal application. It will be difficult to cork the grip wax smooth in the traction zone, so I'm betting you will need less than if they were waxible skis. I've never tried to enhance the base of a traction pattern ski but I've known people who have sanded down a small amount of a ski pattern a few inches on the front and back in order to get more glide. I've seen a few KZbin videos where people have tried to create a traction pattern on a regular wax ski using a mini grinder and lots of patience. Sanding a bit of the traction pattern for more glide makes sense but I think it would be very difficult to get acceptable results trying to create or enhance a traction pattern with a mini grinder. kzbin.info/www/bejne/l4Ocmn-crqachKc I'm curious, what brand and model are your skis?

[@karensheffler773]

@@tomm9850 Fischer Spider OTX full metal edge. I love them and we ski a lot. Today i will try to sharpen my metal edge too. And add a bit of kick wax. About a 20 Degree stuff. Will keep u posted.

[@tomm9850]

@@karensheffler773 Fantastic. I hope you have a great ski.

[@karensheffler773]

@@tomm9850 sharpening edges worked well. Was powdery so not slipping back too much, so I didn’t need kick waxing. Will keep u posted on kick wax in icier conditions.

[@paulkerby4829]

And as always another good video thanks Tom

[@tomm9850]

Thanks for tuning in

[@paulblichmann2791]

What I did was take some wax scrapings (clean, not off the garage floor), sprinkle them over the fishscales, and ran the iron over it. I'm not buying some special stuff $39 for tiny vial.

[@tomm9850]

One of my ski buddies does exactly the same thing on his Voile skis that have a traction pattern and it works very well. Thanks for posting and have a great winter.

[@benallen6888]

When you are hot waxing your skis, how long do you let the wax cool before scraping it off? I find it difficult to scrape the wax off when it is cold, and I am wondering if I should maybe scrape it while it is slightly warm.

[@tomm9850]

I let my skis cool down to about 70 degrees (room temperature) before I scrape. My garage can get pretty cold in the winter, and I try to not overheat the skis when applying the wax, so I can usually scrape them in about 10 or 15 minutes. The hard glide waxes that I use can vary quite a bit depending on the temperature rage. Extreme cold gliders are very hard and almost "brittle" when scraping and the warmer glider waxes tend to be softer at room temperature. Make sure you have a good scraper, one designed for this specific purpose. The one I'm using in this video is the Swix Plexi Scraper www.amazon.com/Swix-T0824D-Plexi-Scraper-4Mm/dp/B000T1Y9T8 It has a very nice sharp edge that works well, but I also use a flexible steel scraper upon occasion, especially for ptex repair. If you experiment a bit with your scraping technique and temperature, you will find the sweet spot that works well with your wax.

[@AAAAAAAAAAAAaron]

Hi Tom, do you ever use sticky wax skis? Any thoughts on the pros/cons especially in the backcountry

[@tomm9850]

By sticky wax skis, I assume you mean skis that require a grip wax. I've been skiing for several decades in the backcountry, starting with wooden skis, so yes, I have had lots of experience on waxible skis. I started my transition to "waxless" skis about 12 years ago and most of my quiver are of that type. The only waxable skis I ski today are skate skis. For me, I prefer "waxless" for off trail use and waxible for groomed trails.

[@juhovieruaho2338]

What if you would like to use skins, don’t you need to take the wax off before being able to use the skins. I don’t understand how can you keep well maintained bottom of the ski without waxing. I have never used skins but apparently it is something needed to do when pulling a sled or going steep uphill. Many skis offer only waxless like Åsnes Amundsen.

[@tomm9850]

I use skins quite often and they stick well to hard glide waxes. They won't stick very well to liquid glide wax, especially after the liquid wax has just been applied, but will stick after you have skied for 10 or 15 minutes.

[@ОрханПамук-щ7р]

Том, спасибо! Очень полезно!!!

[@tomm9850]

Добро пожаловать You are welcome

[@SwissFamily2000]

Great video! Thanks. How hot do you keep the iron when hot waxing?

[@tomm9850]

The dial on my iron was set to 130 C (266 F). My garage is cold in the winter, around 4 C (40 F), so my iron needs to be a little hotter than if the skis were stored in a warmer place. It is always a good idea to use the lowest heat setting that will melt the wax you are using and allow the wax to penetrate the base.

[@SwissFamily2000]

​@@tomm9850 Thanks! Love your videos. your 2017 video of the s-bound 98 inspired me to get those skis... best investment in a long time, couldn't be happier with the flexibility they allow. Still not 100% there with the telemark turns, but getting better every day.

[@tomm9850]

I'm still skiing my 98's and they work very well for my area. Telemark is a life long pursuit. It is still a work in progress for me. Appreciate the kind words and hope you are having a great ski season.

[@slide4180]

Is it necessary, or even possible, to clean wax gunk off the natural cork?

[@tomm9850]

Good question. The waxes that I use for glide do not tend to gunk up my cork. Back in the day when I used violet, red, and some of the sticky soft wax as a kicker on my waxable skis, any wax that stuck to the cork would tend to work its way off the cork the next time I corked in a harder wax. If I had a cork that is gunked up with a sticky kicker wax, I think I would do what I could to work it off the cork before using it for glider wax.

[@oshgcan3350]

In the first segment, you put the glide wax on the traction pattern. In the second segment you don't? Confused 🤔

[@tomm9850]

In the first part of the video, I'm showing the use of the liquid / paste glider wax over the entire ski. In the second segment, starting at 3:18 I'm applying a rub on glider wax to the tip and tails, then a liquid / paste glider wax to the center traction pattern of the skis. In the third segment starting at 5:13 I'm hot waxing the tip and tails of the ski with a hard glider wax followed by a liquid / paste glider wax to the center traction pattern of the ski. In the last segment, I'm demonstrating the use of a ski vice, which makes it easier to scrape a hot waxed ski and this may be a bit confusing as the ski I'm scraping is a skate ski, which does not have a traction pattern.

[@Gulgonful]

Tom are you using a Flouro wax here?

[@tomm9850]

Most of my waxes are low flouro. I do have some old flouro that I have used on occasion in the past on my skate skis.

[@Gulgonful]

@@tomm9850 thoughts on the change over to non flouro? Got an opinion on the move to completely eliminate flouro wax from recreational skiing?

[@tomm9850]

I'll leave this debate up to those who use a lot of flouro. For me, I can get along just fine without flouro. I have some, and when its gone I'll just use another product.

[@Norsology]

Fluoro is unrivalled but has several downcomings. It creates carcinogenic fumes when heated, it gets concentrated in and along the groomed tracks "poisoning" the surrounding earth, it is expensive which is a real problem in junior training and competition. It has thus been banned for use in youth training and competition in Norway. Just use ear wax as the old timers did;-)

[@tomm9850]

The ear wax comment gave me a good chuckle.

[@newttella1043]

Do you nylon brush the liquid and rub on paste wax?

[@tomm9850]

I use a stiff nylon brush on the ski prior to waxing. Its mainly to help clean the base of dirt and debris. To apply a liquid or paste wax, just rub on a thin even layer. Excess wax is a waste as it will quickly be removed by skiing. The liquid and paste glide waxes will last longer on your skis if you let it "cure". It is a good idea to get in the habit of applying it well ahead of the time you plan to ski. They make several different types of nylon brushes for skis. The hard bristle brushes are used in the manner shown in this video and the soft bristle brushes are used by racers to fine tune their hard waxes.

[@newttella1043]

@@tomm9850 Thanks! Love your channel.

[@jackwilliams7555]

What are you rubbing on the paste wax with?

[@tomm9850]

That is a great question. The application pads that come with the wax gets chewed up fairly quickly on the rough scale patterns of my skis. I've tried using a small bit of cloth with the same poor results. This season I cut up a "tough" synthetic sponge into a few small squares. It works ok as long as I apply the wax in one direction from tip to tail, but if I go against the grain it is not much better than the sponges that come with the wax. If I find a better solution, I'll be sure to share

[@justinkowalke9277]

have you ever tried using rainX instead of wax?

[@tomm9850]

I've never tried rainX on a ski base. I did try a small test patch on the top of a ski once to see if it would prevent snow buildup and I did not notice any difference between the very small treated patch and the rest of the ski. I have no idea if rainx would have any adverse reaction with the base, so proceed with caution.

[@keithyoung7]

Your tutorial recommend waxing the grip area with past. This procedure clogs the gripping zone making them useless. Logic told me not to follow your instructions- however, you appear to know what you’re talking about so I followed this procedure and resulted in a frustrating day’s skiing. Once the past was removed the skies functioned correctly.

[@tomm9850]

Sorry to hear that applying a glider wax on your traction pattern rendered your skis useless. The traction pattern on all of the skis that I've owned are aggressive enough that a thin coat of glider wax followed by a wipe down to remove the excess, enhances the performance of the ski, giving it a bit more glide. The glide wax also helps to prevent ice buildup underfoot which can be a common problem when the snow is warm on the surface and cold a few inches below.