First Job On My Vintage Metalworking Lathe (and an enemy secret agent in the workshop!!)

[@pigswhist]

Put a piece of thin metal between the cutter and your work; when it is vertical, you are at the centre height.

[@CapnCrusty]

Run the chuck jaws all the way in, they should all meet simultaneously in the center. If not then the jaws need to be taken out and reinstalled onto the scroll timed with each other. The jaws should be marked, and each has a particular slot that it rides in, so check that the jaws are in the correct slots too.

[@heliarche]

On mine if I have them in the wrong slot it's WAY out of whack. I've done it purposely to make an eccentric of arbitrary dimension. I just needed it to vibrate a plate compactor so dimension didn't matter too much. More then likely just an old beat up chuck. The jaws can be ground true again. It's a process but I've done it.

[@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299]

they all meet neatly in the centre at the front - I'm thinking there's something stuck inside at the back somewhere

[@subverted]

@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299 The reason things were so far off is probably because those formed tubes have terrible concentricity! When I make customers parts with material like that I always ensure there is around 1/8in or 3mm of extra stock on the OD. A dead center in the chuck and the live center on the tailstock should allow you to get things more concentric to the pre-made bore.

[@Altruistic-Viking]

@@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299the reason why the the drill went off center is because you did not use a center drill and ALWAYS keep the work piece as close to the chuck as you can. After drilling you can pull out the piece and support it with the tail stock

[@heliarche]

@@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299 If you can get it apart and clean it that's a good place to start.

[@britishtechguru]

I saw you turning the late on and off by reaching up to a cord switch. That sent shivers down my spine. You need a kill switch right by the lathe that you can hit with your knee in case you get tangled up in the lathe.

[@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299]

I was wondering where to put a switch and I followed an old example of the ceiling switch because it's accessible whereever you are (I hope). As it is, the camera tripod seems to be in the way always

[@AlindBack]

@@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299 If you're wiring it all up yourself, I would imagine you could add another kill-switch in-line anywhere you like. It certainly seems to me that having many ways to turn off the machine, but only one way to turn it on, can only help with keeping you safe.

[@britishtechguru]

@@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299 You *could* put a deadman's switch on the floor. Something fixed in place that you have to keep your foot on in order for power to flow. When you take your foot off, power stops. You could even do this as well as a knee-level stop switch. No harm in multiple safeties.

[@johnfreiler6017]

My thoughts too. A lathe can be a killer: gloves, loose clothes all big no-no's around a lathe. You want a very fast no-nonsense way to shut down the power should something go wrong.

[@humbucker0076]

giving it a push with gloves doesn't help either. Especially net to the belt. As well as generally wearing gloves around rotating machinery. Any gloves, loose clothing, etc can get stuck and it will pull you in because the lathe doesn't stop.

[@neffk]

In the USA, HSS is still common in hobby shops. Carbide can be sharpened but you need a diamond wheel or lap. When you get an old lathe, you're learning several things at once---how to operate and maintain the lathe and how to grind tools. So don't get discouraged when something doesn't turn out on the first try.

[@tropifiori]

Mr Pete 222 has old videos on lathe work , sharpening, maintenance and basic procedures ( facing, threading, parting). I learned quite a lot from him Try getting a pot of machine oil. Thin it with mineral spirits. Put a small brush in the oil and brush it on the work. This will keep the tools from overheating and you’ll get a nicer cut. Machine shop is the most fun a grown man can have without having to repent afterward. Enjoy! Be safe, that machine won’t stop. Frank

[@pcka12]

Given my serial loss of machines due to relations with the fairer sex I am not sure about the 'repent' bit!

[@alexnosheds]

I have a feeling the inner and outer radius of the thick walled pipe are not concentric to begin with. The pipe people aren’t interested in such minor details 😅 Possibly best to turn down the threaded rod first, then weld your pipe sleeve to it, and then turn down that whole assembly so they all relate to the threaded rod. * caveat I’m not a machinist

[@deftknight7418]

I mean, that sounds close to me and I've done some (But not too much) machining on a lathe. I think that's a good tip.

[@mdorsthorst7740]

l really like the video! as others have commented before, please address the switch, if an emergency happens a dangling string is hard to reach. also don't wear gloves or long sleeves near a spinning lathe, they can get caught on something and drag you into the lathe

[@yt650]

If you can get ahold of a machinist handbook, it would enlighten you considerably. Many times they can be found at used bookstores or estate sales. I don’t recommend buying a new one because it will lighten your purse considerably. Perhaps someone can donate one to you it gives you every dimension you could possibly want and I’m just talking about the cutting tool information, it is mind-boggling what is in that publication.

[@Butteredthanatoast]

There's some free pdfs available online as well

[@jamesmisener3006]

Yes get an old one that will have just what you need in it and nothing you have to skip over or ignore. Simple machinist manual or a specific metal lathe operation and manual. It will have sharpening guides, speed settings, etc. Cheers 🇨🇦

[@paradiselost9946]

the type of books that find their way into my toilet... can open them at any page and read for a few minutes :)

[@yt650]

@@paradiselost9946 I agree . Knowledge is where you find it. Sometimes my employees ask me how do you know that? I read about it in the can over the years.

[@ShadeTheif]

@yt650 do you have a recommendation for a specific title?

[@tracybowling1156]

Was that Buttercup!?! So sweet! So cute! You are so smart. I am not at all surprised that you are figuring it all out!

[@KRYmoltenzinc]

I love seeing you take old machines and fixing them up to work for you, just how you need them.

[@PaulinesPastimes]

What a great addition to the workshop. The possibilities are endless. Excellent 😊👍

[@nathanlucas6465]

Fantastic to see that old lathe working again 😃

[@snchilders]

I've had a link belt on my wood lathe for many, many years. Nice and quiet and no problems,

[@EastBayFlipper]

When I was in university, we started with modern lathes and hand-ground-cutting tools so we could understand their functions through experimentation. If you can download an old pdf of a machinists Bible, it'll help with your speeds and feeds so your surface finish will improve. It's kinda cheating, however, check our CEE in Australia for his tool post grinder as the motor is speed-controlled and will solve your gearing to get the right finish I really enjoy your videos. Enormously entertaining and relaxing 😌

[@phildxyz]

Make sure you have your chuck jaws in the correct chuck slots - they are usually numbered 1 2 & 3. They can go in the wrong slots and stop the chuck running concentric. Could also be the chuck backing plate (if it has one) not mounted correctly.

[@MatthewTinker-au-pont-blanc]

So much to learn on a lathe!

[@rjung_ch]

Thanks Tim, learning is a never ending process. Cheers 👍💪✌

[@SimonHollandfilms]

enjoy the lathe...learning new skills is a joy

[@curator23]

Sneak up on dimensions - you can always take more off, but you can't (easily) put it back on. Since you want the inside to be concentric with the outside, you need to hold the work from the inside. You can either turn between centres or turn a mandrel in the chuck and superglue the tube onto it. Heat breaks the glue. Gloves, or anything else that could snag, should be avoided. Nitrile/latex gloves are fine as they will tear. Wear goggles, if you aren't already. You don't want chips of hot oily steel embedded in your eyes. It's not fun.

[@pete3897]

Nice swith! :)

[@RCassinello]

Brilliant update - thanks for sharing. That lathe looks like an absolute beast of a machine - I'm sure once you've ironed out the quirks, it'll be a really valuable asset to the WOW Workshop. :)

[@pcka12]

You can sharpen carbide if you use the right stones (green I think)! The leather belts you get at charity shops aren't usually fully leather & you stitch the joints on lathe belts rather than use those clumsy great joiners meant for massive tractor belts! Thanks for the amusing videos.

[@timeflysintheshop]

Hey Tim! I see you are getting lots of good advice about the lathe. Take note that the link belt may work well on a small diameter part, but if you try to cut something larger, you may find that the belt will slip since it is so narrow it does not have much frictional area. I think link belts are intended to go into v-belt pulleys, not on the older flat pulleys.

[@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299]

That sounds like a bridge to cross that I might never get to : - )

[@tandemcompound2]

Remember--when you cut on a lathe only move the tool HALF way in the cutting distance. When you remove metal you cut on both sides of the circle.

[@richbuilds_com]

You give me a lot of joy with these videos. I help where I can, I hope other do too!

[@RalfyCustoms]

Your tool holder isn't meant to be used in that 4 way toolpost, its made for a Lantern style post, that way you can adjust the tool to be on centre height (essential) As said check out Mr Pete, he's absolutely covered everything you needto know

[@EddieVBlueIsland]

Setting the tool height can be accomplished with putting a straight flat strip between the tool and work piece, it acts as a level and swings to you if tool is too low and away if tool too high.

[@morganasplund7929]

You can make a nice and thin part-off tool from a tigersaw blade, its that good steel in sawblades, You just have to make something that can hold in the sawblade =)

[@pointer2null]

Those swarf streamers are also very sharp!

[@grahammorgan9635]

Well done Tim, keep up the good work

[@subverted]

The reason the angled tool holder is so fiddly in your setup is that they are intended for use in lantern style tool posts that have a semicircle wedge at the bottom to set the angle of the cutting tool.

[@lumotroph]

Great to see you learning such a fun skill!

[@peterhase1045]

If you are trying to hit a specific diameter to fit in or on to another part, you can sneak up on it by just turning the very end down, then test it against the other part until it is just right. If you leave the part to trun down a little bit long, you can afford to overshoot a little bit without ruining the whole length.

[@Odinnyb13]

nicely done getting the lathe up and running! I would suggest you try again on the leather belting, but this rime use some new better quality leather and instead of using those alligator clips, use a more traditional method of hand stitching the flat leather lathe belt. I have done so on my treadle powered forge and its held up wonderfully, just remember to use some thick waxed linen thread. Your linked belt seems to be working pretty well, but i am afraid it could snap or begin slipping on the pulley if you were ever to take a bit of a heavy cut. you can normally put on some "belt dressing" on a flat belt to make it stick better on the pulley (but it can be a bit expensive nowadays). But my great grandfather used another trick for cheap belt dressing for the portable steam engine that ran the old local sawmill he co-owned once. They would use ski adhesive/glue, normally put on the underside of cross.-country skis when the snow gets icy, so you don't slip too much and can still kick forwards to ski along. if you decide to stick with the linked belt im sure it will hold up well, but if it ever begins slipping you cant really apply belt dressing/ski adhesive to it due to its nature of not being a smooth surface. (i think at least, maybe it would work) But anyways you do what you want to do and feel its best doing, just felt like pointing this out. Keep up the wonderful work Tim, and stay safe!

[@nitt3rz]

The hole not being in the middle of the pipe is due to the manufacture of the pipe; we have similar issues at work. One solution is to drill the tube out 2mm bigger (& make the threaded bar 2mm thicker) that should take out some of the discrepancy in the tube.

[@betamaxblake]

You can alter the height of the lathe tool with packing pieces and shims underneath the tool where it is clamped into the tool post. Anything from thin pieces of shim steel to pieces of old hacksaw blade to get the correct height.

[@davidquirk8097]

For better accuracy you're best not using the compound slide (you call it the top slide) There is no gaurantee that it is truely parallel to the bed sldes you could end up with a slight taper. The saddle slide is what you should be using. When I used to have to set lathe tools heights (back in my school days) we used to use a centre (mounted in the tailstock) and thin, metal shims under the tool holder to align the tool tip with centre height. This way you can keep the amount of tool sticking out of the tool holder to a minimum which helps to prevent tool breakage and gives a stiffer tool setup.

[@rnwagner]

Link belts are awesome!!

[@phildxyz]

Angled tool holders were usually used with a 'boat' style tool post which allows you to change the slope of the tool.

[@juanzuluaga3388]

Once a piece is taken out of a 3-jaw chuck, concentricity is lost. In a 4-jaw chuck, with independent jaws, it is possible to keep concentricity. Plus, in a 4- jaw chuck you can do work with non-cylindrical pieces (for instances, have flat surfaces relative to each other). Another tip: pork lard is a wonderful cutting fluid.

[@stevearcher3921]

I miss the railroad videos

[@TomS-ce8hi]

I love the mix of videos!

[@danius_huganius]

they will come back, it's just that it's mostly because he's a farmer, not a railroader, hehe They'll be back once work for it is needed

[@Manigo1743]

@@danius_huganius A farmer? Yes, that explains why he is working on a wooden car instead of a railroad.

[@danius_huganius]

@@Manigo1743 to help with the farm? he made some tests, sure, but he's more of a farmer than a railroader. it's why he mostly refers to the railway as "Garlic Railway", it helps on the farm check the wood cars :)

[@smokeyjoe3181]

I miss the beekeeping videos.. but if it was all beekeeping there'd be no wooden car, railway, lathe and much much more.. 😀

[@mrclaus859]

Thanks for posting

[@Convolutedtubules]

Braze a little piece of carbide to steel, grind it to shape, and you have a great carbide cutting tool that can be resharpened. Electrical copper wire works for brazing carbide.

[@heliarche]

I am an amateur at best. I don't often bother with the chip breaker notch on my cutters. I get the cutter sharp and if it starts making a birds nest I can stop my feed or stop the lathe and clear them with a decent hook. Get rid of those gloves and make a decent chip digger. Chip breakers are nice but to me they're a pain in the ass to maintain. Once you really get in tune with this lathe and learn its idiosyncrasies you'll love it even more. It saves so much time and effort on these strange projects. Instead of going to town trying to find a bushing for two pieces that were never made to go together, you just turn one out in about 5-10 minutes from a piece of scrap. I haven't made any money from my engine lathe but it's saved me tons of time and money.

[@Clockwork_Planet]

Nice. I always enjoy watching these videos. The lathe is very good.

[@joethompson11]

Amazing to be giving the machine a new lease of life. It's a great thing to see! Great job, as always, Tim!

[@ferguscosgrave7510]

Well done

[@springwoodcottage4248]

Joe pie (great channel) taught me to make a cylinder that is the height of the centre & keep it by the machine. This gives super fast tool height setting as we can feel to a thousandth of an inch or better. Other great channels Myford boy, mrpete222 & xynudu. Digital calipers & digital micrometer will be a blessing. You can set the dimension you want, then zero the caliper & by measuring the job know how oversized you are. Enjoy!

[@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299]

Thank you - good ideas!

[@robinsparkes-u1l]

Very interesting ,I like it.

[@Skorpychan]

I was wondering what you were up to with your little electric pedal car project. And then, a few hours later, here's an update on it.

[@roberthocking9138]

Nice work. You may find a little bit of soluble cutting fluid will give you a better finish and more importantly extend you tool life, hence less sharpening. Cheers

[@ronaldmartin7892]

Another interesting video, Tim. The tips in the comments are very enlightening. My grandson has just started learning to use a lathe at his Vocational school here in Thailand. Slightly more modern lathes I suspect, but maybe not as interesting as yours.

[@EngineeringVignettes]

To reduce the pipe down smaller while keeping it concentric you can turn it "between centres" and use a tool called a "dog" to get the pipe/stock to rotate. The live/dead centres go into the hole in the pipe so the reference point is then on the inside surface, not the outside that the chick normally holds down on. The upper part of the cross slide is good for turning tapers, I do not see it normally used for turning stock to a consistent diameter along the work length though.. careful not to accidentally add a taper to the work :) If you can get a dial indicator and magnetic stand then you can use it on the cross slide to measure depth of cut and it helps not to go too far. Sneaking up on the final cut is a good trick as well (.050 to .020 to .010 as the final diameter gets closer).. very small changes on the diameter may be possible by doing a "spring pass" as there is always tool pressure in the prior cuts causing deflection in the work piece that a spring pass can clean up on. Its getting there! Happy cutting. Cheers,

[@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299]

Thanks - yes, I'm looking out for a dog and another centre for the headstock. It's all so interesting!

[@RustyInventions-wz6ir]

Great video. You are doing well with the old lathe. A tip though that my subscribers kept telling me, is not to use gloves on the lathe. Apparently it’s dangerous. Also use a plier to grab the metal strands if you want to save your hands. I don’t think your chuck centers are aligned. I like these link belts. I use it on my Myford ml7, they are brilliant. Good work sir.

[@terryfromsouthcarolina4601]

Check your chuck jaws and make sure they are on the right slot. They should be stamped 1-2-3 on the chuck and jaws. I'm not sure how your chuck mounts on the spindle, but check and see if there is any trash in the mounting surfaces. I wish I was closer, but alas, being from the USA...... Cheers Terry

[@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299]

Thanks - will do

[@donwright3427]

Your doing really good. Just take small cuts on the old gal. Google cutting clearance angles

[@totherarf]

I am sure you know this already, but it is easy to find the centre of a cylinder like this. Just have a guess and put the tool against the piece with a metal ruler between. The ruler will then slant to show if you are high or low. You want to be a midges below centre! Midges is a mythical measurement used by machinists. Sometimes they use an alternative "hair" and if they feel like being a tad more accurate they will define the colour of hair. So if they say "up a blond one" or "down a redhead" you know what they mean .... even if everyone else doesn't!

[@lordmuntague]

I believe "Midge" is traditionally used with 80s machinery, otherwise "this means nothing to me"... 😁

[@totherarf]

@@lordmuntague Yes ... the 80's was when PC first raised its ugly head and Midges dick became Verboten!

[@yt650]

Your dead/live center right at the very point is where your cutting tool should be or just a smidgen below that it’s a fast way of setting the cutting tool.

[@09conrado]

Of course you can sharpen carbide tools. That diamond strop works just fine, plus there are green stones for the bench grinder. I use carbide chisels for stone carving every day, I think I should know by know

[@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299]

Yes, you're right - sorry! I was thinking of the little indexable lathe tools that are too small to hold when you sharpen them

[@Convolutedtubules]

Carbide has many advantages. Brazed carbide tooling can be easily made, and resharpened. It cuts a lot smoother, doesn't overheat, and the edge lasts a very long time compared to tool steel!

[@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299]

I was thinking a brazing torch would be useful alright

[@Convolutedtubules]

@@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299 A small gas torch works well, or mapp gas. A welder can be used also, anything that will get the metal red hot. Use some flux such as borax. Do you have any bits of carbide? I might be able to send you some broken tools and inserts. You do need a diamond or CBN wheel for sharpening, regular abrasives don't work very well on carbide, but cheap diamond abrasives work great.

[@chox2001]

1:37 The tool steel will fit in the tool post without that ancient holder. A packing piece may be needed to get correct tool height.

[@wideyxyz2271]

Shims

[@collie147]

Just as an aside I've seen people use nylon 3d filament wrapped into the threads and melted to take the pressure off the end of the threads. It still wears but in a fraction of the time. It's not as good as metal rod at the correct diameter but it's cheaper and less labour intensive. Whether or not its worth it over 20,000kms or not I don't know. Maybe you could get the threads machined on the axles from smooth bar for a decent price in bulk.

[@torstenzeps365]

👍 Hello Tim, I also have a very old lathe (unfortunately not used for a long time). It was powered by an old three-phase motor. What I actually wanted to say is - I got an old but still good V-belt from the scrapyard. It worked really well and even better than these leather belts. Just an idea but maybe you've already tried it?!? All the best and continued success. Best wishes, Torsten

[@emmajacobs5575]

In the previous video, Tim showed why that is not as convenient as a belt with a joint in it - the lathe has to be partially dismantled to get an endless belt over the spindle pulleys

[@ItreboR63I]

I wouldn't necessarily blame the chuck too much (I see 3 jaw self centering chucks useful for one operation tasks). Hardest thing about lathe work is keeping all subsequent operations concentric to the last. Individual jawed 4 jaw chucks help with this.

[@Paulman50]

If you want an interference fit, spin the last 1thou off with a flat file. 2 pot JB weld, is good for building up round threads, lathe it down for an interference fit.

[@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299]

Yes, that makes sense - thanks

[@WojciechGamer]

when are you going to do an update on the railway

[@ebikescrapper3925]

You had made a sort of shoulder bolt, I wonder if you could use a connector nut,. thread the shoulder bolt through the wheel, thread to connector nut, thread bolt through non wheel side / trailer side, thread to connector nut. You go might have to trim connector nut or weld it to something and use thread lock. Great video.

[@flatbrokefrank6482]

You can sharpen carbide with a diamond wheel - you can get these from many stores at a reasonable price these days - I am told that carbon steel tools are as hard as, if you can keep them cool let them rub and its taters!

[@eckosters]

Am I the only completely non-technical person to follow this channel (for years!) without understanding anything? Example of my complete a-technicality: my bicycle seat was a little wobbly and I had to go and ask the bike shop to fasten it because I just couldn’t.

[@georgebear4557]

Please don't wear gloves when using your lathe. It could be fatal.

[@gerhard6105]

Have seen it go wrong with a learner at such a 2m high drilling machine. I was just working nearby and could hit the emergency stop bottom. The 17y/o was smashed against the big column from the machine and his hand was very damaged. Could be saved luckily ( in the hospital). Never seen him again. So yeah, no gloves when using such machines. Regards from 🇳🇱

[@rchobby1979]

When doing a metal working course the teacher showed pictures of an accident where someone got his glove caught by the lathe. I had to throw up, but it did teach me a very valuable lesson. Never ever wear gloves and no loose clothing. It is better to cut yourself on the sharp metal than to loose your hand …

[@MrM4Goo]

Why the ancient lathe? I used a old Drummond lathe that looked like yours & it was horrendous compared to a colchester even a old MK2 is like light & day compared to that lathe however I loved your fun voice over pleasure to listen too & i have now subbed

[@namechangedawyep]

Good

[@dougvandegrift8727]

I just love how you got your lathe working. But, May I ask about your field railway. Any news about your extension ?

[@mickestahl6178]

You can check out Vintage Machinery at KZbin. He have a lot of late work videos out with advanced problem solving with tricky parts.. He is a real master of the machine shop..

[@nephewbob7264]

Every would-be machinist on Utube will point out all your "errors". I will point out that by learning on your own, by trial and error, you will reach solutions that work for you, and possibly even develop processes that others will learn from. This is the difference between journeymen and geniuses.

[@johnfreiler6017]

While I applaud your resourcefulness of reconditioning the old lathe, I think you're going to find that it's just not up to real high tolerance work: once you figure out exactly what you want, find a local job shop with CNC lathes that can crank out a hundred axles to high tolerance for next to nothing. But your lathe and welding skills will get you there. That, or sink some funds into a better lathe, but that would be sad.

[@bow-tiedengineer4453]

11:20 Cute kid! :P

[@meirionevans5137]

Tsk, those pesky secret agents!

[@someguydino6770]

please, please, please ; no loose clothing around rotating machinery!

[@gerhard6105]

And no long hear. And best no necklaces and ear rings. I learned that as a teenager on the technical school, end 1980s. And always take out the key that is used to clamp the work piece. That went wrong once, in our technical school machine room.

[@ModMokkaMatti]

@@gerhard6105 And always make sure that your lathe is not set to thread chasing mode, if your intent is to do some other turning operation. That happened in my Machine Metals course at Uni three decades ago; thankfully, the tool post did not collide with the rapidly spinning chuck. 😬

[@BedsitBob]

A diamond strop is what my girlfriend has, when I refuse to buy her more jewellery. 😊

[@SCronin944]

Cool but don't use gloves on the lathe or any drill sander so on 👍

[@danderhallrailway5140]

Make a proper kill switch, ideally a bar that runs the full length and you can stamp on it. As an important safety dont use gloves with a lathe

[@Bullfrogerwytsch]

Waist belts are usually cheap leather, especially newer ones. Better off buying raw leather strap from a leather supplier

[@Ififitzisitz]

The Brie stabilization in this video I'm sure is driving everyone crazy (or is it just me) but otherwise good video.

[@ShedTV]

I don't know anything about lathes, but wonder if is it possible for one jaw of the chuck to be slightly further in or out relative to the others?

[@Demo12345]

Do you think the leather belts would have possibly worked if you were able to double them up and sew them together to make a thicker belt? I know it still would possibly fail but I'm just curious at this point.

[@ianthemonkeyhangerturner]

Hi Tim where did you get the chain link belt from one of my old work mates has asked me about one that has snapped and it made out of leather riveted together cheers Ian great video

[@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299]

I found it on German Amazon, but I found it's available in Cork city now too. Good luck!

[@ianthemonkeyhangerturner]

@@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299 thank you Tim

[@ericsevern]

(Hole wasn’t in the middle. LOL) Were you wearing a sweater while using that lathe? I remember, at the age of 13, saving a fellow student’s arm when his sweater got caught in his lathe. I just happened to be walking towards him as he started screaming. I quickly moved forward and hit his red off button. His sweater was so wound around his work that the lathe stopped spinning in an instant.

[@kathrynwhitby9799]

2 channels worth a look at for lathe work are Donn-DIY & Abom-79

[@09conrado]

Cutting Edge Engineering Australia

[@cda32]

Nope. CEE or Stefan

[@kenbutcher5158]

You can't assume plain pipe is concentric, or straight

[@01thomasss]

Hi Whether the chuck is off remains to be seen. I would guess your run-out comes from the use of store-bought threaded rod and ordinary pipe (albeit thick-walled). Neither of these should be considered 'precision' components.

[@xFlow150]

The old saying is: measure twice, cut once. I'm perplexed by how many people do certain things by "feel" and end up having to redo their piece.

[@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299]

It's my first ever lathe job, give me a chance!

[@xFlow150]

@@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299 Don't worry, I'm guilty of cutting first as well.

[@H4rleyBoy]

Any engineer will tell you that a thread is where the nut goes, it is never a bearing surface EVER.

[@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299]

Well yes obviously. But I didn't have a working lathe at the time

[@H4rleyBoy]

@@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299 you can buy anything these days.

[@alan-sk7ky]

Your vintage lathe most likely unable to feed/push Tcarbide tooling hard enough to get good results anyway. Machines built before the widespread use of Tcarbide had no need to be able to push Hi-speed steel that heavily.

[@nameless5413]

Would it not help to mark the depth that you want to lathe something to? say use a perma marker or something to measure. Hehe goat eating Mott plans.

[@niemanddings9517]

Learning by doing is great but there are some lessons you don't wanna learn the hard way, especially with lathes. Please for the love of god read up on lathe safety. Never wear gloves when the spindle turns. Gloves can easily get caught in rotation parts, and when they're pulled they'll tighten around your hand making it impossible to get yourself out of there. Chips might be sharp, and everything oily or cold but it's not worth losing a hand or your life. Install an E-Stop somewhere it'll be easy to reach. The pull switch might seem neat, but it wont be when you desperatly trying to stop the machine. I don't know if you have long hair, but if you do tie it back (into a small tight pack, i know someone who nearly died because his braid got pulled in, he survived, because someone was nearby to push the well located e-stop, and he still got about half of his head hair ripped out). Also don't wear loose clothing (like loose long sleeves, or anything), since that can also be caught. I'm not your mom, but lathes are some of the most dangerous tools out there. We've learned a lot about making them safer over the past decades, but they're still incredibly deadly, and yours doesn't even have those safety features. Always use caution. Learn from mistakes people made already, because you won't be able to learn from them if you make them yourself. Source: I work as a part time Machinist, operating a manual lathe, and am restoring a lathe similar to the one in the video

[@niemanddings9517]

For everything that isn't safety critical youtube is also a great place to learn. From beginner intros from Blondiehacks, up to Ultra High Precision stuff from robert renzetti (robrenz on yt) or industrial production from Abom79 or speciallized customer parts from stefan gotteswinter, there's something to learn for any skill level. Other channels I can recommend for machining are mrpete, inheritance machining, oxcotools, clought42, and once you get started more of them will get recommended to you.

[@perrymattes4285]

Just wondering why your motor doesnt have a start winding. ?? Or is it a 3 phase motor on single phase. ??

[@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299]

single phase but tired?

[@therealtastyturnip]

Is the camera trying to follow your hand? The extra shakyness is kind of distracting.

[@JSmith19858]

Don't wear gloves when using a lathe.

[@daanwilmer]

First chips, congratulations! I love Blondihacks' videos, if you need more machining tips / inspiration.