We're BUILDING The 383 Stroker, BUT Is Our Valvetrain Okay?

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The 383 stroker short block is together, and we're going through and doing some checks and adjustments to make sure our valvetrain is set up the way we want! Degreeing the cam, setting rocker geometry, and checking piston to valve clearance!
Make sure you check out the entire playlist if you haven't!
• Building A 383 Stroker...
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[@JAMSIONLINE]

Go to TryFum.com/JAMS and use code JAMS to save additional 10% off your order today!

[@dennisrobbins5451]

Just a quick note to let you know that I appreciate the fact that you don't claim to know "EVERYTHING" about engine building. It's refreshing to hear someone say, "If you see something, we are doing wrong..... please speak up and help us learn!" Great video!

[@andoletube]

Definitely a good idea to advance the cam by at least one keyway. People underestimate the effect of chain-stretch on the eventual cam timing. Great video!

[@pete540Z]

Great lesson on degreeing a cam! I am with you, I like the .050" open point method. Since IVC affects dynamic compression, and the point many think affects the drivability and torque the most, I like to let it's position dictate where I degree the cam.

[@Drmcclung]

The "spicy lube" gag genuinely made me laugh my ass off for a solid minute after it hit me what the container was 🤣

[@sebasfernandez517]

Yeah. Same here

[@erik_dk842]

Trojan Arouses & Releases Personal Lubricant

[@realtruth716]

Thank you i was too awkward to ask.....@@erik_dk842

[@brian2359]

This video right here is a great example on why you pay a shop to do this!! Great video as always!

[@JohnThomas-vb9se]

Just some food for thought, I always tap and use threaded pipe plugs in the ends of the oil galleries. I’ve personally saw the destruction that occurs when one of those blow out at high rpm. It was even staked.

[@malkierie]

I've heard of people using pipe tap and bung. I like that idea and you could still use brass for the plugs.

[@bigal878]

I do the same on our old Holden V8 blocks here in Australia 👍🇦🇺

[@TheJohndeere466]

On a small block you have to watch doing that. If you install the plugs to deep you will block off the oil holes that are drilled from the bottom and intersect with the hole you are plugging.

[@JohnThomas-vb9se]

@@TheJohndeere466 you’re absolutely correct. It’s just like anything else when building an engine, take your time and pay close attention to details.

[@mikemaccracken3112]

I use the 050 method. I try to get the rocker arm to sweep in the middle of the valve. I have had issues with the valve tip side loading causing wear on one side of the valve guide. I try to run the shortest pushrod so I can minimize pushrod deflection. Thanks for the video.

[@JohnH20111]

@JAMSIONLINE, you are getting the best education possible and getting taught by the best instructor and i am seriously impressed by your dedication, commitment, and attention to detail in what you do

[@dreamlinerkoa6438]

When there are two ways to check tolerance, do both and make sure you get the same results 😊

[@recoilrob324]

Setting the cam to close to the card is a good starting point...but just that as later checking piston to valve clearances will often put limits on how far you can advance the cam. Chasing the exhaust valve closed isn't nearly as critical as opening the intake into a rising piston so intake piston/valve is what I'm concerned with. Once I find the limits of cam timing that will not get into clearance problems....then we see how it runs and try advancing and retarding to find where it runs the best within the clearances that we've proven are safe. At least that's how we play with this stuff. Good video explaining everything for people....very helpful and well done! (P.S. the floors are nice and clean...your sweeper needs a raise!) Edit: I commented before you did your rocker alignment checks: I'd prefer the sweep to be in the center of the valve and live with whatever geometry it gives with the reasoning that if you're pushing off center you are imparting a side load on the valve in the guide. Pushing in the center side loads the valve the least even if the sweep is slightly larger IMHO. LOTS of compromising to be done when building motors...what else would we have to argue about? :)

[@vtwinaddicted5852]

Outstanding comments

[@jeffbeard395]

For someone who knows very little of engine rebuilding, this video was excellent. Really opened my eyes. Thank you

[@heathrussell4730]

Would have been a perfect opportunity to dry(test) fit the relationship of timing marks on balancer and timing tab. Too many variations exist between oem and aftermarket timing locations. Just a thought. I know it can be done later. Just would have been a good opportunity to stress the importance of this step for any SBC. (mild or wild applications).

[@honorharrington4546]

I have a question about torquing head bolts on the older, non-replaced head bolts AKA non torque-to-yield and non degree. My Dad taught me to use a dial torque wrench and on the final torque to hold that torque and let the wrench creep until it stopped. This fully compressed the gasket and prevented blown head gaskets. He and his brothers ran circle track cars after WW2 and I guess he learned this technique then. Have you or your Dad heard of this before?

[@stevenm3141]

Seeing and explaining is the best way to demonstrate any principle. Now I can use this video to reference to refresh school of thought. Thanks for the time and effort.

[@Saltwatercowboy79]

Legend tutorial guys, you missed nothing per usual… stay blessed🤘🇺🇸✌️

[@jayss10]

Something very important you didn’t really mention that newer folks need to know. When you degree a cam and find that it’s advanced or retarded this doesn’t necessarily mean the cam is where the mistake is or isn’t. These variations can be from tolerance stack up from the keyway in the crank being cut wrong, to the upper sprocket being drilled slightly off, to the lower sprocket being machined slightly off. It’s a stack up of many different things.

[@jcnpresser]

I saw someone doing pushrod measuring and I was amazed by how it also changed the lift of the valve. Next time you check and are messing with the pushrod length pay attention to the lift your getting. It’s was pretty neat.

[@JAMSIONLINE]

At 7.600 we were just a couple thou above what the lift should be based on cam specs. At 7.300 it was .015” or more less!

[@earlbrown]

That's why using the mid-lift method is the only right one. People that put the rocker way to high or way to low so it's in the middle aren't pushing down on the valve. They're wiping across it.

[@Carl_Jr]

That's because "the math" assumes that all of the angles are perpendicular. In the real world that's rarely true.

[@earlbrown]

@@Carl_Jr As long as Jim Miller still holds the patent of mid-lift rocker geometry, it'll never be true. If a rocker manufacturer makes both angles correct at the same time, it'll be infringement. So, basically, you have to measure both and land somewhere in the middle of the two right pushrod lengths.

[@brianmullaney6237]

@@earlbrown That patent expired in 2000...

[@markmcmullen1371]

I understand the light springs so you don't collapses the hydraulic lifter though all your checks, but how did you do the clay check without collapsing the lifter and not get a false reading ?

[@JAMSIONLINE]

I put a solid lifter in & accounted for the difference in seat height w/ a different length pushrod. Forgot to mention that.

[@jlwz71]

The cleaning guy is the best. I don't think I would have touched that bottle though.🤣🤣🤣

[@halletts1171]

Excellent video as always. Valve and Rocker geometry always gets tricky with strokers and increased lobe height. I wish back in the day I could have recorded videos to double check my work the next day to make absolutely sure I had done it right.

[@mikekenyon3322]

.050th from max lift method works best for me, I've had cams that dwell on max lift several degree's .

[@JAMSIONLINE]

Seems to be the easiest method & should work on every cam. I still like to reference the opening & closing events too though, when they’re listed!

[@cedricwilson2055]

On both sides before and after maax lift.

[@garyradtke3252]

I have found that teaching and explaining helps me retain better and makes the subject more clear to me.

[@mattthebountyhunter7380]

Love your informative videos and am jealous of your relationship and chemistry with your father. Great work and keep it going 👍🏻

[@jamesbegley2700]

Excellent Tutorial, Great Editing. Well Done

[@jerrywhaley6397]

Recommendation, never hurts to tap and thread the oil galleys. Right behind the timing chain. Instead of a staking the plug. (Lol actually experienced that the plug getting pushed out. 😮

[@Paul1958R]

With all the effort they went to in other areas and the high $ parts they used I was actually shocked that they went with pressed/staked galley plugs.

[@wheels2199]

After you put the heads on and do the final torque take a 1/2” brass punch and hit the heads of all the head bolts a few times, then re-torque. I guarantee you will be shocked by what you find, how much of few wacks changes the torque. Check it with a digital torque wrench and you’ll see exactly how much they change. That’s a trick I learned from Alameda race engines. It helps head gaskets especially if you’re running high compression.

[@bigbelconut]

So you crush the gasket around every head bolt. I have been building engine's for 40 years, been taught by some of the best race engine builders in the country, I have never heard of this

[@davidreed6070]

If you are talking about Ben, he is a knowledgeable man

[@wheels2199]

@@davidreed6070 Yes, Ben is who I was referring to.

[@davidreed6070]

@@wheels2199 yes I listen to him, he knows how to make power.

[@thorwaldjohanson2526]

If you hit the bolts after torquing them, you didn't torque them to spec. It's why you also only let the torque wrench do one click, as you would torque it over when you let it click multiple times. If thr bolts are not tight enough, you specs were wrong

[@leepaulison4928]

Amazing explanation of all the topics covered. As someone who has never even thought about any of the topics covered, I was able to understand and follow it. Thank you.

[@jeffreydurham5342]

You did it exactly like I would, and I've been doing it for 50 years. Perfect on the pushrod length and the cam degreeing.

[@rickyfulks889]

Can also use a straight edge across retainer to determine if ur perpendicular.

[@leonardfoster6252]

I do just like the cam companies says to do on degreeing the cam. First find top dead center. Set indicator on 0 on heel of cam, # 1 intake lobe. Turn cam max lift, 0 indicator that drop .050" on one side of lobe and take reading on degree wheel, than turn cam until you are at .050" on the other side of lobe and take reading off degree wheel. Add the two readings together and divide by 2 = lobe center installed... This method works fine...

[@StevenJankowiak]

I’ve been watching your videos for months while I’ve been deployed. You and your dad are great together and y’all’s work is absolutely amazing!

[@mbullify]

Thank you for your service 🇺🇸💪🏼

[@verdellgutierrez3522]

Thank you for the video and you're time the time and awesome work we all love watching. 🙏

[@JN-mk2fh]

EXCELLENT and descriptive video on how important degreeing a cam and checking P2V clearance is.

[@Arnthorg]

the cleaning guy and clarence, an incredible father son duo

[@Stormin06096]

Great information on degreeing the cam as well as setting up the proper valve train geometry.

[@grandmasmalibu]

I used to pick pushrods using a method similar to the "mid lift" method you use. Now I use sticks that are typically .050" or so shorter than you will get with that method, at least for motors designed to roll a lot of miles under the tires. Yes, there is more "sweep" across the valve tip this way but most of it happens when the valve is near the seat where spring tension is a lot lower than near max lift. This is how the factory set up the valvetrain geometry originally for engines designed to live a long time (they just made the sticks "shorter" by using a LOT of lifter preload: 1 or 1-1/2 turns being typical).

[@amundsen575]

as far as the geometry goes , after you get your theoretical push rod length at mid lift, I increase the length and decrease the length of the adjustable push rod until max lift on the indicator is achieved

[@donharper7759]

Really enjoy this build hoping to do something similar for square body chevy pickup soon. I will referring to this build thanks for your videos👍

[@tda2806]

What you call "true TDC" is the centre of the dwell time of the piston at the top of its stroke. At either end of its stroke the piston arrives pauses (dwells) before reversing its direction as the crank rotates, i.e. if you set 0deg as the piston arrives your timing will be slightly advanced.

[@ShaunHensley]

Doesn't he come at it from both directions and split the dif to find tdc?

[@tda2806]

@@ShaunHensley yes, I was trying to explain why he was doing that, I have had frank and forthright discussions in the past trying to explain TDC isn't when the piston arrives at the top of its stroke, that's just the T of TDC

[@ShaunHensley]

@@tda2806 Gotcha

[@wtdonovan]

Be sure to double check the three stand-offs in the valley if using the factory style roller, as I understand it those will need to be tapped and threaded to hold down the retainer plate or spider :) I have a 1 year only 1986 block that has 2 stand offs in the valley in a totally different pattern. I've been wondering if I can modify the later spider simply by redrilling the holes to line up. We'll see when I get to that point hahaha

[@rhekman]

7:05 This particular build is using link bar lifters, not the dog-bone and spider setup. Still a good tip though to check retainer fitment.

[@wtdonovan]

Nice, he was using the dogbone for cam timing mock-up

[@overload3996]

I use .015 from the bottom of a hydraulic lifter to set height, and geometry . The hydraulic lifter after .015 is slow pumping reaction vs Solid.

[@timothyengland3]

Thanks for the video, learnt a lot about dialing in the cam, new what and why but not how

[@ZIPCORD]

Since the pressure is greatest at full lift I'd think that would be the target to have the roller at the center of the valve. I guess another school of thought would be to have it roll through center at mid lift spreading valve side loading equally. But when one takes into account spring load relative to lift it would not be equal. The load over center (meaning off of, having passed through center) would always be highest.

[@richb4099]

With stud mounted rockers on a SB Chev you'll just about never get to perfect geometry....The studs are just not in the ideal location. It's always a compromise. Shaft rockers addressed this problem years ago....Jesel's.....I use the ink method and eyeball the rocker.....I build bracket race engines sometimes and the last one I did had an old set of Canfield aluminum heads. Had to use a .300 long pushrod....I think 7.800 is stock length.....Did 2- 400's a while back....One with AFR heads and one with Pro Action heads.....solid roller cams......

[@MarkWitt-nn1fe]

I personally would only use the 0.050 method with one procedure added that I have not seen in the video. That would be to only get your 0.050 mark on the clockwise direction of rotation so as to eliminate any variance that the chain might have.

[@JAMSIONLINE]

Everything done was in clockwise direction of rotation.

[@akpexplorer7940]

I'm happy of being your subscriber 😊

[@shadvan9494]

I have been building Big Block Chevys since the late 80s, one thing I have learned about them is that they are very picky about valve train geometry and setup of the heads, mainly because of the canted valves, plus the valves are huge and heavy and the springs are stiff to control the heavy valve. for that reason, I use both methods to degree the cam. i use the intake centerline method to double check that the cam is what it says it is, and that the lobe centerline is correct, and I check using the valve opening and closing point to verify that the manufacture ground the cam correctly. also, with roller cams i check to make sure the wheel on the lifter is parallel to the lobe. I recently was building a 396 and had 2 sets of link bar lifters that were off by about 5 degrees from parallel. one lifter was strait and the one that it was linked to was angled just enough to see with the naked eye that it was not parallel. sent them back to got 2 replacements. the replacements were perfect. so, mistakes in manufacturing do happen. I also use both the clay method and the dial indicator method for checking piston to valve clearance. yes, it takes a bit longer, but it is better to de 100% sure than to bend the valves when you fire it up for the first time. one other thing i do with big blocks is that i find some manufactures don't use stiff enough springs in the spring recommendations for their cams. for example one spring is recommended seat pressure on 122lbs at 1.9 inch installed height. but i found that in this particular engine, it wanted to float the valves above 5500 RPM. which can be disastrous in a big block. so, i shimmed them .045 and it bumped the spring to 136lbs at an installed height of 1.855. and it stopped the valve float issues from 5500-6000 rpm. granted this 383 is a small block and doesn't have the valve train issue inherent with big blocks. i just found that most manufacture are not recommending enough spring with their cams. at least not for big block Chevy's anyway.

[@faredce1]

Do any old 454 Chevy (crusader) marine rebuilds?

[@riverflyswatter]

Cool ! Thanks . Just patiently waiting.

[@GrandPitoVic]

They sell a screw driver looking tool for the spring locks. I seen a guy just screw them into the piston.

[@stevemuller82muller65]

Keep up the great work fellas 😎🤙 much love from Pennsylvania 🥳🇺🇲

[@mikekenyon3322]

narrow sweep and in the center are equal in goal. off center push's the valve stem into the valve guide, which causes guide wear and possible stem galling, IMO

[@JAMSIONLINE]

In a perfect world you have both. In my opinion being off center slightly while having the force push directly inline with the valve (or as close as it can) through the travel will result in less wear than having the sweep centered overall, but pushing and pulling laterally on the valve tip because the angles are off.

[@earlbrown]

Narrow sweep is the actual goal. That way the rocker is pushing the valve almost straight down instead of wiping across the valve tip. If the contact patch is on the very edge of the valve, you have the wrong rockers. The fix is to get correct rockers, not install them wrong. The patch is going to move outboard as the rocker goes up the stud since they aren't parallel with the valve. Plus, if the contact patch isn't dead nuts in the middle of the valve, it's still not an issue. The actual load comes from the spring not the valve. If you have a 1.250" or 1.500" spring, being a few thou off of center really doesn't matter, percentage-wise.

[@northeastverminhunters]

awsome work i hope we get to see this motor running 🙂

[@jeffreydurham5342]

Mid lift is the correct way to determine pushrod length, center of the pattern on valve is not. The rocker arm travels in an arc and the further you get away from a right angle at mid lift the more your cam lift is wasted in sweep across the valve. Very well done!

[@yarrdayarrdayarrda]

I recall the belated Joe Sherman stating once the engine is running the cam retards about 2 degrees, which makes sense when you consider you have the load of the cam opening several lifters as well as the resistance of the cam driving the oil pump. I've played with cam timing on the engine dyno and you'd be amazed at how little change advancing or retarding a cam has on both the numbers and the curves, at least where larger race style cams are concerned. (I.E. 2 degrees of advance traded the torque and horsepower numbers by about 2 on a 650 HP engine) It would be interesting to do a degree sweep between 4 advanced to 4 retarded on a street oriented engine such as the one in the video to see how it would react.

[@Carl_Jr]

Engine Masters as well as Richard Holdener have performed this test numerous times. The result is often negligible. One test required a difference of 12* before a notable change in the behavior of the engine took place.

[@6426yy]

You need to add .050" to your push rod measurement for lifter preload.

[@mattmanyam]

There was an on-screen note addressing this.

[@6426yy]

@@mattmanyam I must have missed it.

[@BenGalloway-b4m]

Yep, that mid lift rabbit hole on old school sbc for checking correct push rod length will have you scratching you head, need shaft rockers to fix that problem, hay just a couple thousand more LOL, built this same engine last year, same prob, new crank needed to be index ground, line bore and deck block, the cam I had made is so close to yours its not worth comparing, same heads other than I had upgraded springs and retainers and went 7/16 rocker studs, same compression ratio, 10.5 to 1, a comment was made on your way cost 10,000 to build, we spent 12,000 and no it does not have shaft mount rockers LOL , and my labor was free, but I have peace of mind that every thing was as good as I could get it, good job on that build I love seeing someone try to do things right by paying attention to detail, im with you and check both ways on deg a cam, but I always end up at at .050 method, I try to find the smallest sweep as close to center as possible on mine I ended up a little towards exhaust, maybe .050 towards exhaust from center,

[@Joshie2256]

That 110° lobe separation is 3-4° too wide for best torque. Also, what head flow numbers lead you to believe that more exhaust duration than intake duration was needed?

[@txstang84]

I'm late to the show, but enjoy your time in The Lone Star State-great video, I'll probably be referencing it when I do my next cam install since I have some more precision measurement tools this time.

[@charlesr9110]

I suspect that the cleaning guy is the actual customer in this build.

[@dannydurham5716]

I recently learned a hard lesson. Maybe you could do a video on it. I threw some heads with 2.08 valves on a 4.060 bore engine. The quench cut outs on the piston being for probably 1.94 valves led to a slight touch that undoubtedly with the correct cut outs would have cleared by a mile

[@surferdude4487]

Derek at Vice Grip garage did a video on valve train setup. You seem to have it under control.

[@racerd9669]

Ya is see something that will make it much easier to dial in the cam. I always dial in the cam and check the P 2 V with only the # 1 piston in the engine.

[@vinmandich7756]

Little secret tip stretch those flat spring locks apart then install been doing it for years in other words make them look like a valve spring then install I won't tell you who showed that you ever built a nitro motor they usually use his pistons

[@nhzxboi]

The one thing that was disappointing about doing engine machine work is that I never got to see the thing work. Only time I'd ever hear anything back is when something went wrong. That was fairly rare but not as rare as I'd have liked. Sometimes customers screw up assembly. Blue-printing is a static thing. It has it's limits too. The crankshaft does twist. Front input crank pin furthest from flywheel has more ability to twist the thing than the one next to flywheel. When to end the silly chase of getting things right on the money should be balanced with the realization that it's only a static thing...reality is the crank does twist a bit depending on load and zeroing in on things does have a limit.

[@MichaelSmith-pm7ci]

😂love it! Best joke of the day! Next you should do a his/hers when you have a two engines for a couple.

[@bill8by5]

The PERFECT explanation of getting the math right and making the motor correct.

[@matthewb8229]

I thought for sure the cleaning guy was going to give you Sriracha sauce. I could not have been more wrong...

[@JAMSIONLINE]

🤡

[@Mattvardaman]

The cam has 4 degrees advance in the grind. 107.5 was less advanced but negligible.

[@stephenpoe2037]

Extremally Interesting ! Thanks for sharing .

[@bobwallace5257]

Nice video!!! I think the cleaner needs a vacation! It appears he is slacking off ✌️✌️✌️

[@erik_dk842]

1:19 "Trojan Arouses & Releases Personal Lubricant"

[@WrenchHead]

Once you stick the clay on top of the piston, a little bit of oil/lube on top of the clay helps prevent it from sticking to the valves.

[@mattmanyam]

He left it in the bedroom.

[@rgmoore]

My wife loves that assembly lube.

[@michael_house]

Yeah - that went right over my head. Impressive work. :D

[@Stevesbe]

I read that wd 40 was what you used on the rings to make sure they seat . This was 35 years ago

[@JohnH20111]

that was when WD-40 was actually good for something, now it’s not even worth trying, because it’s like using baby oil

[@MrYoyojuan]

I don't know if I missed something, but why not start the rocker sweep checking with the cam at half lift then extend the rod till you get the 90deg then snug the adjuster?

[@Bill-xc8le]

I used the 50 method always, back when I was Drag Racing

[@bigal5747]

When you said, "This is the cam card that came with the camshaft from com cams." That was crazy

[@hairbag4096]

Look into ring manufacturers recommendations. They recommend lite oil for brake in. I've even heard of WD-40.

[@phreekedelic]

I wonder if you could add one of those digital levels to improve the resolution of your angular measurements 🤔

[@malkierie]

When pairing up piston, connecting rod , wrist pin, bearings and crank journal location, would you find it worth it to try and swap around parts to minimize piston in the hole differences if planning to go turbo with a 9.5:1 compression ratio ?

[@bigbelconut]

I never use assembly lube on cylinder bores, I use wd40 on bores and very light coat of 0-5 weight oil on piston skirt. Total seal recommends WD40.

[@arthurrodesiler3109]

I find out if you just buy stock oversize rings you still have to file the rings. Best thing it's so close all you need is a hand file a few strokes. I always give it more ring gap. Better to have a little more which won't hurt a thing than a end butt which can cause you the whole engine. Years ago chevy did a test on ring end gaps and found no horsepower lost up to .060 thousands. All they noticed was more blowby. So i have always open my own up .005 bigger than the minimum. On the hypereutectic piston I go 10 over on the top ring and 5 on the second ring minimum. I have seen way to many hypereutectic piston blow the top ring land off. Myself use stock cast pistons or use forged pistons. Forget you ever herd of those hypereutectic piston no matter who makes them. Years ago we turn those cast pistons all the time up to 7,000rpm without any problems in SBC.

[@CarzNCameraz]

Since this is going to be" Burnout motor", I would have given it .002 more ring end gap on the compression rings. my thinking is that the extended high rpm will generate excessive heat on them. Just my $.02. ( after years of running my own shop, I always thought that Being the "swamper "would be an ideal position for management, you see everything that's going on ) : > )

[@CarzNCameraz]

adage: ring gap too large no one will know, gap too tight everybody knows

[@torreypines3074]

Excellent machine work and understanding of numbers! When will you cc the heads and block to get static compression? Those pistons and heads might keep it low. Weld county elevation is 4,675 so 11:1 is ideal with alum. heads. Those AFR's and that comp cam are a little too big for a 383 on the street with pipes and mufflers up here. On the track open headers, gears, high rpm probably OK. Also you need to change those studs and rockers to 7/16 or I guarantee the 3/8 will be bent. We have run your exact setup and many other smallblock and LS combos on the street here in Colorado for many years. Thank you!

[@docholliday6635]

1.25 retarded is just about perfect. It helps utilize valve over lap for more intake. ( little more vacuum in time of the cylinder) i did this to our diesel race car while at uti trade school. Instructors lets try it, we did and broke their quarter mile record by a second and a half.

[@DouglasMix-o7h]

Love what you do and the way you do it. I do have a question. Since you and your dad build crazy engines do you have any cool personal cars that are tricked out? They might be nice to see. Thanks

[@grenmastermike]

Is there any play in the cam gear before snugging the bolts down? If so, would you center the gear or push to the most clockwise amount of lash?

[@jaygraham5407]

Interesting to see the degree wheel. I used one on McCulloch 2 cycle go kart racing engines. 😉

[@steadyeddie7453]

At 19:12 it appeared that there wasn't very much crankshaft key engagement into the crank sprocket. Just an observation.

[@hassmakki]

Great work, as usual...👍

[@rssvss]

Great video! Were you installing the cam per customers needs , warranty availability, or just to show us.? ;) 😅 And great idea with view finder. Smart man! Sure beats holding a protractor lolol

[@georgejackson408]

With the pistons 6 thou down in the cylinders could you offset grind a 400 crank to a stroke of 3.87? This would put the pistons level with the deck and increase displacement by over 11 cubes to just under 395 CI. Just a thought!

[@phil_p]

I’m curious, you said the piston depth in the cylinders was more varied than you were hoping for - but you carried on. How bad would it have to be for you to pull it apart again?

[@stevesmith866]

This video reminded me of the old saying “ bend over I’ll drive “

[@djwilliams4714]

The spicy lube joke was funny, but where and who had the empty bottle?!? Lol

[@mazevx2451]

Your V8s are so different to our high revving 4 cylinders especially the valvetrain is so different

[@garryhatchett775]

With zero deck pistons and closed chamber heads, what is the minimum piston to head clearance recommendations?

[@six4standingtall]

I've seen on another youtuber video where he shows that different timing sets gives different effects to cam timing.