Weathering HO Scale Locomotives with Powdered Pigments

[@NScaleDystopia]

This was really excellent. I love F units and this is perfectly weathered. 🔥

[@SouthDown]

Thank you, I had a lot of fun making this. 🙂 Getting feedback from one of the people I look up to is quite the treat!

[@AlongTheModelRailroadLin-ld7ke]

Great weathering job! I have used colored chalk for weathering with good results. I am interested in trying the PanPastels, as they do look good. When I weather a model, I'll start with light weathering and if I like it, I'll stop there. But then I might add more weathering if it will add to the effect that I'm looking for. Thanks!

[@SouthDown]

Chalk weathering can work well. PanPastels are a little trickier to control, but when used right, much like coloured chalks, they're the perfect medium for weathering! Appreciate you taking the time to provide some lovely feedback!

[@What_If_We_Tried]

Thanks so much for making this quick weathering tutorial.

[@SouthDown]

Glad it helped! It was fun to put together!

[@TrainMaster26]

I’m still new to model railroading but this makes me want to try out weathering on my blue box athearn engines. Love the retrospective/commentary video style, your voice suits it very well!

[@SouthDown]

You'll have a blast with weathering! Thanks for the kind words, it means a lot!

[@martinsims1273]

The 1st time I saw weathering which had been done using chalks or weathering powders, was at a model railway exhibition, and there was a lineside "corrugated iron" building which really looked like it had actually been stood outside for years with no protection from the weather. Very impressive. I asked the layout operator about it, and he pointed to a lady a few feet away, and said "That's my wife, she did it, she's an artist". Needless to say, I had a good few minutes conversation with her about paint, colouring, weathering etc.

[@SouthDown]

That's such a great story! I’ve always found it fascinating how weathering can transform a model from looking like a cheap plastic toy to something that truly captures the essence of age and realism. Which is kind of ironic, when you think about it: I try to keep my car clean of any patina, and yet here I am turning my trains into filthy dirty little monsters. The use of chalks or weathering powders can add so much character to a layout. In Lance Mindheim’s Model Railroading as Art, he talks about applying traditional art techniques to model railroading, using color theory and weathering to evoke a sense of history and realism. The idea is to treat the model like a piece of art, paying attention to the small details that contribute to a more authentic look, and selecting more appropriate colours--nothing is truly just black and white, literally. Weathering can turn a simple model into a visual masterpiece, as your friend’s wife clearly demonstrated with that corrugated iron building. It’s all about capturing that unique perspective and telling a story through your models. Thanks for your feedback!

[@tracksidemike]

Nice job on weathering Leo. It takes a lot of practice but you eventually get to where you want it. Yes ruining a new locomotive hurt why I never lock it in with the Matt finish till the end because you can go back and take some off or add some to it where you might need it. Great first time weathering a locomotive 👍 Gives it realistic looks Thanks for sharing

[@SouthDown]

Thank you for the kind words! I agree, it does take a lot of practice but fortunately I have both yourself and James to show me the way! Thanks for your support!

[@HartfordWhaler]

Excellent job and excellent video!

[@SouthDown]

Your praise is the best reward!

[@MMRails]

Great job! I love the window wiper effect. I’m still too nervous though. 😄

[@SouthDown]

Getting your high praise means the world to me. I think of you when compiling my video essays. I totally understand being nervous about it!

[@georgiasunbelt]

👍🏽👍🏽 EXCELLENT 👍🏽👍🏽

[@SouthDown]

Thank you! As a newbie in the hobby. it's nice to have your approval!

[@georgiasunbelt]

@ I’m probably more a newbie than you…my first layout and still learning…especially how you just weathered that diesel…saved your method and will be trying in the near future…

[@SouthDown]

I am no better than you and making mistakes is the best way to win! Here, if you want to dive down the rabbit hole further: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mmrQemeAabCekLs Good luck! 😉

[@georgiasunbelt]

@ 😂😂

[@mysticrailroad]

very nice work! thanks for sharing :)

[@SouthDown]

Thank you! Your approval means a lot!

[@lukestevens8735]

I always start with the chassis as it allows me to "start" the weathering without the fear.

[@SouthDown]

Thanks for the pro-tip. I have a couple of models in my tiny fleet that I'm still reluctant to touch, but I will definitely try your suggestion. Appreciate your taking the time to provide feedback.

[@michaelsmodelrailroading7665]

A very nice weathering job, indeed. Not at all overdone. When weathering, less is often "more."

[@SouthDown]

Thank you! I agree, less is definitely more when it comes to weathering! I won't lie though, I did go heavy on this engine compared to my other ones, inspired by the Boston and Maine engines I referenced in the video. The toy-like shine has completely evaporated and combined with a quality decoder with the fantastic motor of a Proto 1000, this model is such a blast to play with. I appreciate your feedback!

[@joeraderblackrockcentralrr]

Well done and nicely explained

[@SouthDown]

Always fun to see a project come together! Thank you for sharing your thoughts!

[@dundasjunctionmodelr.r-jam8267]

Leo you did a excellent job, I have a F7 project maybe next year ,

[@SouthDown]

Thank you, I appreciate that! I'm sure your F7 will turn out great! If not, I’m here to help!

[@fscarp]

Imagine my surprise seeing the unit #9000. That unit in that livery lives or perhaps lived in Alberta at the APRA railroad museum. I spent a few weekends aboard it in my youth.

[@SouthDown]

Wow, that's fantastic. It's amazing to hear that you spent time aboard it. One of the perks of running a "rail operator" in a prototypical fashion, is that much like the real deal I purchase second hand units at bargain prices and put them to work. Gives me an excuse to own and run first generation diesels from a variety of schemes I like, justified with a patch that reflects their new ownership. While the real F3 9000 is probably in a museum, mine lives in an alternate reality of this prototypical model railroading multiverse where it continues to earn revenue. While I've seen some fellow model railroaders clutch their chest and turn blue when they see what I run on my tracks, this is the kind of realism I enjoy. Thanks for your feedback and sharing your connection with this engine!

[@martinsims1273]

What a great video, thanks. And your'e right about the price; I've been involved with railways (including moddeling them) since the 1950's, but in the last few years, I've almost stopped buying anything, particularly new, because of the astronomical price hikes compared to just a few years ago. Yeah sure, the detailing on the newer stuff is top class, but when a model is (say) 3, 4, or 5 feet away, and moving, how is a door hinge, or a small handle on an underframe going to make that much difference? And surely, like the weathering you've done here, part of the enjoyment is in doing your own detailing and improvements.

[@SouthDown]

I heard recently the difference between something being 'costly' and something being 'expensive'. An expensive product is something that costs a lot of money but does not deliver on the expected quality that such a price demands. A costly item is a product that costs a lot of money but the costs are clearly visible in the product's quality. Most items available on the market these days are simply expensive. Sure, the detail is nice, but my experience so far is that the quality behind them is nowhere to be found. More often than not these models will operate for a short period of time before they start experiencing all kinds of electrical problems. It got to a point where different models from the same manufacturer all started experiencing the same electrical issues like clock-work. I have since returned everything back. I'm new to this hobby but I have to admit I am a bit bewildered by some of its members: when you lament the fact that most of these products don't seem to work for more than five minutes, they all seem to be more than happy to fix them themselves--which is great if you know how to, but I think the “fix it yourself” mentality creates a dangerous precedent. If we continually accept poor out-of-the-box performance and solve the issues ourselves, manufacturers might feel less pressure to improve. Instead, we should push for better quality control and communicate directly with manufacturers when models fall short. I now vote with my wallet---this might be the only kind of consumer feedback that can drive change. For my part, I’ve taken a different approach: stepping away from modern releases (voting with my wallet) and focusing on older, proven models. As noted in my video, these might lack the fine detailing of current offerings, but their reliability and ease of maintenance mean I spend more time enjoying the hobby and less time troubleshooting. For me, that’s a worthwhile trade-off. A $300 model that can't handle a frog is so frustrating to operate no matter how many details it has--and that ends up living the rest of its days as a Shelf Queen. Meanwhile, this Life Like Proto 1000 F3 while very basic looking, cost me $30, and outperforms a brand new Athearn Genesis or Rapido Trains on electrical reliability alone. When I'm looking for hours of satisfying model train ops, I am going to use the model that doesn't stop over a frog or constantly stutters on the track. I currently have another project on my workbench--it started purely by chance and mostly because I had most of the parts at hand--and while these two models are not as detailed as modern day offerings, both of them together, with Digitrax decoders (my next decoder to venture in!) cost me less together than a single brand-new offering from a manufacturer with a history of electrical problems. With some decals, weathering, and literally a few details, these models will be (to me) more beautiful than an expensive but unusuable brand new product. Please excuse my long winded rant!

[@GenxDiorama]

Nice! I like F-Units. We have a dutch version of them as well called ‘bolneuzen’. 😍

[@SouthDown]

As a Euro escapee I thought I'd know this engine, but aside from streetcars from Amsterdam, I am surprised my online searching is yielding no results. Either way, a fascinating noveau art deco look I absolutely love. Looking forward to pairing this with another GP9, a pair up I've seen in many vintage photos. Thanks for the feedback!

[@GenxDiorama]

Possible, we only speak of them as ‘bolneuzen’ not an official term. We have the passenger dmu’s with the ‘bolneus’ (MAT 54, hondekop, MAT 27) and in the south of our small country and around the border with Belgium we als have the Mohabs just like the scandinavians. I believe the Mohab is US made for european market. Sort of small F-unit with two cabs. And recently we got some retroish modern equipmemt with a ballnosr but they donMt look anything like it 😬 And true, the old streetcar was officially called ‘bolneus’ but train enthousiast don’t use that name for those 🤔😊

[@SouthDown]

You just confirmed what I though you were talking about. Very familiar with the Scandinavian version but didn’t know a Benelux member had them as well! Wishing you pleasant holidays!

[@morganfbilbo462]

Now for a video on weathering steam locos!

[@SouthDown]

Your wish might just come true once this former 2-8-0 converted to a 0-8-0 is ready to roll down the tracks!

[@mattbuffum825]

Great video! Question for you - what is the process you use to patch out your locomotives for the SDRS? I have some locomotives I'm looking to patch and would love to follow a similar process.

[@SouthDown]

Will probably need to put something together but it’s pretty straightforward following some other KZbin videos I’ve watched. In this case these are white stencil characters from Microscale decals (I believe), individually cut, soaked, and applied in the usual way with water and cue tips to smooth them out and soak up excess water. The Solvaset, used to soften the decals and have them adhere better was too strong for the paint-that’s how I figured isopropyl alcohol would be enough to melt the lettering. As I run this channel on borrowed time, I’ll add “how to decal” on my list. I do have an idea that’s formulating in my head. Thanks for the feedback!

[@jamesstuart3346]

Weathering/repainting is much more successful if you avoid getting finger grease all over the model. I.E. wear gloves

[@SouthDown]

Very good advice! I appreciate you taking the time to provide your feedback!