Weathering HO scale rolling stock. (NO AIRBRUSH/affordable supplies & “Click Subscribe brother!☝️🤓”

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[@clevelandtrainfan]

This is one of the best weathering tutorials I’ve ever seen. Going to try out this technique for the first time this weekend

[@WeatheredModelsByColton]

Thank you so much!!

[@mrBDeye]

The chalk dust made me sneeze. I really like how realistic the cars are after weathering effect.

[@WeatheredModelsByColton]

I should have mentioned wear a dust mask when using the raw powders. I forgot you cant see that im wearing one.. oops

[@jodiehartline4898]

I am pretty new to modeling, especially to weathering. Most tutorials lose me when they cut away. Thank you for not assuming we got it in the first take.

[@WeatheredModelsByColton]

No problem! Feel free to find me on Facebook or Instagram and DM me with any questions

[@TheyMakeItLikeThat]

Looks great, brother! Keep it up!

[@WeatheredModelsByColton]

Appreciate that boss. I’ll be making a vol2 with new tricks and better techniques that I’ve picked up since then.

[@frankvozak7280]

Very professionally produced and excellent weathering techniaue. Very useful for any model railroader.

[@WeatheredModelsByColton]

Thank you! I kind of rushed this one. Next one with be an improvement

[@frankvozak7280]

Didn't look rushed to me

[@michaeltyl7697]

Don't you seal the chalk powders with a shot of dullcoat?

[@WeatheredModelsByColton]

@@michaeltyl7697 yes I didn’t have it when making the video and not everyone has a space fit for fumes or event dust flying around or accidentally over spraying dads motorcycle or something tragic lol idk but yes! For the best long lasting results but it can cause the chalk effect to lessen so sometimes adding more chalk and a second spray of dull or flat clear style

[@w.rustylane5650]

I would have painted the yellow car floor burnt umber so it would have looked like wood. Then weathered it unless you're gonna be adding a load to the car. I have weathered over 100 pieces of rolling stock and changing all to body mounted Kaydee couplers and metal wheel sets. I also changed all incandescent lighting to LED's in all my coaches, engines and cabooses. When you're doing boxcars, remember to add some scratches into the finish horizontally where the door opens against the side of the car. I use my exacto knife to scribe some small scratches into the side of the car and fill them with rust. Cheers from eastern TN

[@WeatheredModelsByColton]

I’ve gotten plenty of experience and knocked out many client project since making this over a year or so. Practice makes perfect! I appreciate the quality tips and advice! That why I made this originally just to help people who might be wondering

[@benmoreau8404]

That's great I'm impressed, i'll be trying it my rolling stocks.

[@WeatheredModelsByColton]

Let me know if you have any questions or concerns I’ve learned much more and have gained experience working on client projects over the past couple years. (@Weathered models by Colton) FB / IG

[@whiteknightcat]

It's kind of sad to see some of the older Athearn kits with their glaring inaccuracies, such as the high mounted brake wheel on a car that never had running boards, or 100 ton trucks on a 50 ton boxcar. Some things are easy to correct but others ended up requiring major surgery or kitbashing.

[@WeatheredModelsByColton]

Yea even models that come out today that cost 3X as much have prototype modeling errors. Like BluFord shop cabooses or ever the wrong sound file in the BLI ATSF GP20’s. I feel like some of the “best in the hobby” are becoming too comfortable or even careless when newer companies are proto accurate and around the same price range (Scaletrains)

[@michaeltyl7697]

The 40ft car shown originally had a roofwalk and full ladders. It was a group that was 'modernized' or upgraded and had the roofwalks removed. Some still retained the high brakewheels and some were lowered.

[@andrewlaverghetta715]

Maybe it’s me, but I guess I don’t know the actual definition of “glaring.” I’m going to bet that most people wouldn’t spot these “glaring” errors. As somebody who’s back in it for coming up on two years after when I was a preteen, things like this bug me and make me thing “why even do anything if everybody will notice that it’s wrong?” Ugh.

[@KatoOnTheTrack1]

For adding my rust I let the the mixture drip off the brush but I like your strategy of just buffing, less messy.

[@WeatheredModelsByColton]

Both work great! A little bit of both adds some realism too

[@leslietarkin5705]

Good job. Just subbed to your channel.

[@WeatheredModelsByColton]

Hey I appreciate you!

[@Marienthal1956]

Excellent job. Congratulations. Thank you for this video :)

[@WeatheredModelsByColton]

No problem!

[@timothyallen2407]

Personally I always start with a white wash (white paint diluted with water). This takes away the unrealistic glossy sheen from the entire surface. A little weathering goes a long way.

[@WeatheredModelsByColton]

Yea a white or gray is a common first step for many car types and colors. If I like to think of how these colors look when they distort and fade in the sun

[@chrissantamaria8577]

Nicely done

[@WeatheredModelsByColton]

Thanks

[@petermedcalf5372]

I am attempting to follow your weathering procedure but have hit a hurdle at the first. I have a tube of Daler & Rowney burnt umber acrylic and tried mixing it with isopropanol alcohol. It just kind of curdles and separates. Is isopropanol alcohol not the same as rubbing alcohol?

[@WeatheredModelsByColton]

You can try to add a tiny dab of dish soap to the mix to help with the surface tension. Or acrylic thinner is what I’ve graduated to recently.

[@larrysteen482]

do you seal the cars after weathering them, seem to me that the powers would be prone to damage from handling them.

[@WeatheredModelsByColton]

I do for clients if they want but that can also take away a lot of the weathering affects. Might have to powder/seal/repeat for best results

[@JoeG-firehousewhiskey]

Great job thanks for the tutorial

[@WeatheredModelsByColton]

No problem I’ve gotten a bit more experience since when this was made. I’ll have to make another soon with better tips and tricks I’ve learned

[@wassz]

I’m new to weathering my train set I tried by following your instructions mixing alcohol with my acrylic paint and it became like a messy glue texture why?

[@WeatheredModelsByColton]

Sounds like too much paint

[@peanutskustomz2466]

Out of curiosity why do you mix the paint with alcohol ??

[@WeatheredModelsByColton]

That’s for the “wash / fading” mixture. It helps to dull the shiny plastic pretty quickly and also helps with drying quicker when trying to work fast. I might try water or even AK Interactive has an Acrylic thinner that was recommended because it mixes better. I does the trick but there are definitely better options. This one is just easier for beginners to find / afford and not have to feel bad about “wasting” any because of mistakes and such.

[@peanutskustomz2466]

@@WeatheredModelsByColton I was just curious I’ve seen many videos where they add the alcohol. In my experience I’ll just spray it with a matte clear and let it dry. It dries rather quickly and seems to dull the shiny plastic. Then I’ll add my weathering and then when I’m done I’ll spray it again with matte clear. I did this with a box car in my latest video. Great work by the way and thanks for the response. 👍👍

[@WeatheredModelsByColton]

@@peanutskustomz2466 yes I’m glad you asked. I love your technique as well. Sounds like a solid way of doing it. I also use the alcohol mixture to eliminate any hidden fingerprints that may become noticeable with the weather powders/pastel chalks. I notice if I’m not careful it looks like CSI when dusting up a model and all the fingerprints start showing lol.

[@peanutskustomz2466]

@@WeatheredModelsByColton awesome and thanks 👍 and yea fingerprints are a pain. I’ve done that before lol