Rest When You're Dead • Training Hard with Jim Pope and Aidan Roberts

[@WEDGECLIMBING]

I hope everyone enjoyed! For anyone wondering, the dimensions for the board are roughly 240cm by 240cm at 45 degrees overhanging. Disclaimer: Don't take training advice from this video... Everyone needs rest 😉

[@paigntonskater]

2 standard sheets of plywood then 👍🏻 (2440 x 1220 mm)

[@6darkness6eternal6]

Or roughly £1730 in ply these days

[@dave990]

Rest in your sleep 🦾😝

[@jonbroughton5918]

What about kicker dimensions? I'll take a 3D scan of the wall too if you have it

[@aries_9130]

These two guys are the best climbing duo since Ben and Jerry

[@badbunnyTUBE]

*since Tom and Pete

[@danwest8914]

Must be cool to film one of the best boulderers of our generation, pretty cool that Aidan was there too

[@WEDGECLIMBING]

Divine strength 💪

[@joolsgrommers1466]

Hahaha

[@user-bx4zq7fx7e]

The gods have heard our prayers! May this series never end🔥

[@WEDGECLIMBING]

😅 we've had a very wet winter so lots more board vids on the way!

[@decklundy]

​@@WEDGECLIMBING really? We went like all of February and a chunk of January without any significant rain down in Dorset

[@WEDGECLIMBING]

@@decklundy this year has been a lot better than the end of last year. We just seemed to have missed a lot of the good days annoyingly!

[@Dempsey992]

´What about Wolfgang and Kurt? :P

[@muscularibuprofen69]

would love to see sessions on normal sized boards too

[@miguelgalllego]

Fucking can't wait for Aidan's movie 🎥, pretty sure everyone's got the popcorn 🍿 already

[@WEDGECLIMBING]

Psyched! 💪💪

[@jackandrew-q9e]

What a pleasant surprise on a Sunday afternoon. Just as i boiled the kettle.

[@jxcko]

Sam's really blessed us with another video before the movie 🔥

[@WEDGECLIMBING]

😁

[@kolterlivengood7460]

would be cool if you had a clock going so we could get a good sense of how long their sessions are and how much rest time between goes. Love the videos!

[@manueldavidloboaltuve5698]

You are The new school room 😂 Jim. The cellar room ❤ for this generation

[@satanaz]

I used to feel the same with my fingers if I completely rest them for a period... feels like them fingers get atrophied and stiff very quickly when you stop using them after a hard training-cycle I found that doing light hangboarding, twice a day during rest days, much like Emil Abrahamsson's "Hangboard Training 2 Times Per Day For 30 Days" routine, has made my finger feel much better and healthier after my rest-periods not trying to give any advice to Aidan here of course, as he has some of the best coaches out there taking care of him, but if anybody else reading this feel the same, it might be worth giving this a go, it made a hell of a difference to me

[@WEDGECLIMBING]

I'd agree with that 👌

[@266dmartin]

Indeed. That worked for me.

[@herrar6595]

Definitely get a lot out of no hangs as well, though last training cycle ended with 5 days of pushing myself to the edge and after the last day my body imploded so hard I could not put any pressure through my fingers for two days, as even hanging from a bar felt challenging. I may have gone too far... Or executed my cycle perfectly, yet to find out

[@panicbuildgod]

These lads are beyond strong, and freakish hell, Aidan's back and shoulders are insane.

[@adityakrishna4359]

would die happy if more of these came out

[@JonNelson90WBN]

Aiden, Jim you guys are next level. Great video as always. Keep it spicy. 👍🏻

[@WEDGECLIMBING]

Thanks! Will do 🌶️🌶️🌶️

[@ilian7646]

it's so good that i just watched it 2 times in a row

[@WEDGECLIMBING]

Thanks! Good effort 💪💪💪

[@robinhigh8324]

I had a bad finger injury about 2 years ago and took a break from serious climbing sadly when I was at such a good point. I'm doing proper rehab exercises with my fingers and taking my time with it and I'm suddenly making rapid progress because I had given up multiple times because of the pain. now my fingers are almost pain free and I've partly managed to rebuild the base muscle in my hand which is exciting and giving me hope! I just want to say that you guys are beasts and make me want to get back in the game and it's a pleasure to watch your stuff.

[@WEDGECLIMBING]

Thanks so much! Sorry to hear about your injury, but glad to hear it's on the mend 🤞

[@joolsgrommers1466]

Quality! Boards are magical. Psyched for the session on mine tomorrow!

[@WEDGECLIMBING]

Cheers!

[@44Mrleo]

Would you like to see other climbers trying problem on this board ? Sick vids btw, can't wait for the movie !

[@aidanscarffe5256]

Favourite channel!

[@WEDGECLIMBING]

Thanks!

[@Jagknorr]

The finger and tendon strength is unreal!

[@dudleylama5369]

nice, been really enjoying the training videos lately

[@WEDGECLIMBING]

Thanks!

[@andrewrhodes1173]

Love this duo and all the vids 🔥🔥

[@WEDGECLIMBING]

Thanks!

[@alexmandrews]

All these flashbacks giving me straight scooby doo vibes. Jenkies!

[@WEDGECLIMBING]

😅 and I would've gotten away with it too...

[@tomstockton6865]

Another belta 🎉

[@WEDGECLIMBING]

Thanks!

[@meisers.kletterecke]

As we got now the dimensions. All we need to know is, where the hell can one order those holds? Great vid by the way. 💪

[@WEDGECLIMBING]

Thanks! Loads of makes: Beastmaker, hardwood holds, lock Holds, Jim bowow, Gucci grains and a few others

[@meisers.kletterecke]

Thanks for your answer. I will check them out. Also planning to build my own wall at home... So I will hopefully become a beast too!

[@craigbritton1089]

How long of a rest do they take between goes. Love how Aiden goes from catching a crimp with a more open position; then turns it into an old school full crimp with the fingers driving into the crimp/ wall interface.

[@WEDGECLIMBING]

Often when trying individual moves it can be quite short, maybe a minute or so. Then when going for links it's usually more like 3 minutes 👍

[@craigbritton1089]

@@WEDGECLIMBING thanks

[@HTHfilms]

You guys should do a classic Kilter board session for fun. Obviously the holds on the boards you climb on are like chips off Satan’s tooth…but seeing you on stuff humans can imagine would be sick 🤟🏼

[@Theboardbro]

such a fire video!!

[@WEDGECLIMBING]

Thanks!

[@LezeniCZSK]

Would be epic, if you make a deal with moon or tension boards or... to make a replica of your board to their app. Many of us would like to buy it, to have this at home, and try some of your benchmark boulders.

[@sorryforthat4792]

im straight but on every clip where you see adins back while he is climbing im stopping and just admiring his physique

[@dieg.o_qz]

I love bord sessions

[@kiosken1]

Aidens the best manekin Patagonia's ever had😂

[@6darkness6eternal6]

Strong Aiden Roberts and weak midget Jim Pope in the same video, what more could we ask for

[@WEDGECLIMBING]

Fr fr

[@spacescienceguy]

Love the board content!

[@michaelm5662]

Where is that two tone crimp from Aidan is using with his right hand in the beginning of the video?

[@WEDGECLIMBING]

It's made by Gucci Grains

[@iggimoore]

Wow strong 💪

[@ignacio_cifuentes_m]

What kind of holds do u recoment more for a home wall ? And in wich angle is the board ?

[@WEDGECLIMBING]

It's good to have a mix of shapes and sizes. Typically people will have mainly crimps on this kind of board, but it's good to have other grip types as well. It kind of depends on your ability level as to how bad you make them. These guys use very poor holds, but are well conditioned to climbing on that kind of thing. It's also worth getting comfortable holds so that you don't ruin your skin or risk injuring yourself. This board is 45 degrees 👍

[@bshann]

Love the woody. What brand of holds are those with the WV branding on them?

[@lanceclimbing6614]

Hardwood Holds :)

[@bshann]

@@lanceclimbing6614 thank you :)

[@rosshenderson8171]

great vid chaps, what flag is on the wall?

[@WEDGECLIMBING]

Thanks! It's the Yorkshire flag 💪

[@abc123s100]

Pinch Punch looks like something I'd set, just a full Font number grade harder

[@bloctribe]

Cant take so many doses in a week...what a surprise! 🎉

[@rmplstltskn5548]

The finger strength of these two is baffling. Out of curiosity, do you they use "open" feet. They pick out hand holds but do they also choose feet to use? Or are there certain feet that are always on?

[@WEDGECLIMBING]

Normally any of the small feet, sometimes the bigger ones if the holds are really bad 👍

[@craigbritton1089]

As I commented above: Aiden catches most the crimps with a more open position and then turns it into a more traditional full crimp with the angle driving the fingers into the wall/ crimp intersection. Doing that dramatically can improve a small crimp; on both high angle and low angle crimps. This also allows for a longer reach. Knowing when to use this technique and when to save the torque on your tendons by staying open hand or half crimp is often the difference of succeeding or failing on longer and complicated problems/ routes

[@richardbradley1532]

Really good 👍

[@WEDGECLIMBING]

Thanks!

[@middle-agedclimber]

Everytime you post a video I feel like "man, I need to put some way way worse holds on my board". Also I feel like there's some next level undergrading going on...

[@jimmygodin7122]

Love the board videos, though I feel I’m being exposed to radon by just watching 😂 hope you have that sorted!

[@WEDGECLIMBING]

Thanks! 😅 Full PPE is worn at all times 🥸

[@TucAdventures]

Hey guys I get so stoked watching your videos. You do a great job of showing how much mileage Aidan and Jim put in...how many hours they put into technique. At the same time it's obvious you guys put in the hours of practice into filming and editing. I was wondering...where do you get your music from? I'm starting to edit full time and I guess paying for music is something I need to start looking into. Thanks and keep up the great work.

[@WEDGECLIMBING]

Thanks! I've got a few subscriptions to music sights, artlist and soundstripe are both good options 👍

[@Animatedron]

Is there a or will there be a video of them going through how the route set on their boards? Getting my own board soon so would be good to have an idea!

[@Animatedron]

Also would there be a difference between Jim's board and Aidan's board for setting? I believe one is feet follows?

[@LachlanFaulkner]

where are those wooden holds from they look so nice

[@WEDGECLIMBING]

Loads of makes: Beastmaker Hardwood holds Gucci grains Jim Bowow Lock Holds Loads more

[@Synthysizer]

could you share how long this session was for some added context? sick vid, perfect timing for me about to go slam on a board set myself! edit-- 2hrs is when jim drops out but how long did aidan go afterwards?

[@WEDGECLIMBING]

Thanks! Probably about 3 hours in total, but quite often more like 2 👍

[@wilsonjohnny]

Just a random question. How much rest do you need after a 3 hour board session? Id prob need 24 to 48 hours but obv only doing upto 7c atm i Often need 48 hours cos my tendons hurt otherwise man. Just wondering are you now strong enough to do it everyday and still improve tendon strength wise or do you still need 24 hours rest doing no climbing? It might seem a stupid question.

[@WEDGECLIMBING]

Aidan and Jim climb on boards pretty regularly, often multiple days in a row. But they are obviously very well conditioned to cope with that volume of high intensity climbing

[@wilsonjohnny]

@@WEDGECLIMBING Something to work toward then. Nice one.

[@jako4230]

sick

[@duuplo]

damn, could you please send some of that strength over? thanks!

[@zealous261]

4:40 Didn't even know Aidan had a degree in maths

[@jlc9671]

is there a chance to try malcs Hubble replica?

[@noleft]

Are these guys huge or is the board tiny ?

[@panicbuildgod]

The board is quite wide, but not very high

[@paulmitchell5349]

White rose adds half a grade.

[@_jakow]

What are those songs

[@mezh]

Rest is for the faint hearted

[@AdamSmith-lr2fz]

Those small crimps and bad feet look amazing, where are they from?

[@WEDGECLIMBING]

The footholds are from Core. Handholds are a mix: Beastmaker, hardwood holds, lock Holds, Jim Bowow, Gucci grains and more

[@AdamSmith-lr2fz]

@@WEDGECLIMBING thanks so much for this ❤ which holds are the ones on "jim's crimpy proj" would love a set for my board

[@WEDGECLIMBING]

@@AdamSmith-lr2fz some are from Jim Bowow I think. Although most are hand made by Aidan himself 💪

[@AA-is9vi]

Guess I better rest now because I’m dead after 14:49 😳

[@MrMax247]

Fandabbydozy! 🙂

[@saketssss]

what r the pants aidan is wearing???????

[@WEDGECLIMBING]

Other than that they're Patagonia I'm not sure... Not that that's very helpful!

[@dave990]

I'm not a huge fan of the Wedge woody sessions in comparison with the outdoor content. Don't get me wrong these boys are straight gorilla's on the board, but as a viewer I find it snoozy watching small moves on small holds on the worlds smallest board. It would be class to see them on the mega steap woody board that Dan. V has at Eden rock. Or maybe, a session doing loads of wild V9/V10 benchmarks on the 2016 moonboard. I still enjoyed the video and it still gets a thumps up from me. I just thought I'd share my honest opinion. ATB team Wedge and keep up the good work ✌️

[@WEDGECLIMBING]

Thanks for the feedback, I totally get that, it's not for everyone! I prefer the outdoor videos myself, they just take much longer to make, so unfortunately it's harder to be consistent with those. Plenty more on the way soon though 👍💪

[@dave990]

@@WEDGECLIMBING It's just my honest feedback - which ultimately is what content creators like yourself need to hear 😁. I'm looking forward to more videos regardless of the content, always enjoyable. I'll certainly be rubbing my palms when the outdoor stuff drops though 💪👊

[@WEDGECLIMBING]

@@dave990 definitely, it's always appreciated 👍💪 Lots coming soon 👌

[@diego.montes]

Oro

[@NATALIA-wi1ir]

Rest? Rest for what? Cheers Sam.

[@elfriederich]

TIL: rest is overrated!

[@tschauli_pauli4652]

First?