Well Pump Plumbing

[@sarahsmith4617]

Fantastic! Learned exactly what I was hoping to learn. Thanks for sharing!

[@NaturesCadenceFarm]

@Sarah Smith glad to help. You are very welcome. ~Mr. C.

[@pressureflipin1992]

great video. I needed to see where those connections are at. Thank you

[@NaturesCadenceFarm]

@Z C glad to help! ~Mr. C.

[@urbanturbine]

I was always wondering how the pe pipe connected atr the well head area. Thanks a ton!

[@NaturesCadenceFarm]

@urbanturbine you are very welcome. Glad you found it useful. Thanks for watching and letting me know! ~Mr. C.

[@clarkg9805]

Excellent : I needed this, thank-you so much for taking the time to show how to make these type of connections on well lines. Great job with that camera .

[@NaturesCadenceFarm]

Clark G thank you for the kind comment and watching. Glad we could help. ~Mr. C.

[@o.smallwood4268]

Another step closer, am sure you all are looking forward to spring coming so can get on more projects at the farm. Someone is getting pretty handy witht the camera there too, great job. Take care, haven't forgotten about you.

[@NaturesCadenceFarm]

O. Smallwood thank you. I'll tell Squeaker you like her camera work. We have been working inside the trailer for the past couple of weekends. Stay tuned we will get those vids out slowly, but surely!! Hope you were safe during the recent tornados friend!

[@gckshea]

You have a hydrant supply line coming off the well main line BEFORE the pressure switch. How will the pump kick on if the pressure drops on the pump side of the switch? Will the pump cycle if OVERALL pressure drops to the set minimum (30-50 psi switch)? I know our old house had a master close valve on the pump side of the switch, and it's been marked "NEVER CLOSE!" If it is closed and the house side of the switch says 60psi, but a leak springs on the house side of the closed valve, the pump will deadhead. No bueno. I'm not sure why that valve was ever installed in that position in the line.

[@NaturesCadenceFarm]

@gckshea excellent observation and great questions. I asked the same questions to my well drilling guy when I got started installing my system. There is no check valve anywhere in the piping. Therefore, the overall pressure drop below the lower setpoint by opening a spigot regardless of position in the piping system will cycle the pump on. A valve like that would be used if you had to pull the pump or service the supply line underground and didn't want to drain the whole house into the hole dug to access the pipe. You are correct, deadheading is hard on the pump. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching and asking. ~Mr. C.

[@JohnBaker3000]

Nice tutorial! Thank-you! How does the hydrant interact with the pressure tank that is in the house? If pressure drops at the hydrant, I thought that there was a check valve to prevent the pressure from dropping in the house? If that is the case, then the pressure switch in the house won't turn the pump on until someone runs water in the house. Granted, I'm in uncharted territory now! Thanks again!

[@NaturesCadenceFarm]

@JohnBaker3000you are very welcome. There is a check valve down in the well near the pump so the line all the way to it is under the same pressure. I am sure some installations have a check valve before the pressure tank but I did not install one on mine. The well drillers and the inspector did not require one in the system other than the one way down in the well casing. I hope this helps. If not, please let me know and we will work it out together. Thanks for watching and asking! ~Mr. C.

[@scarface-39]

Nice video!!!! Thanks

[@NaturesCadenceFarm]

@Scarface 39 that is very kind of you to let us know. Thanks for watching! ~Mr. C.

[@bikeninja956]

thanks for sharing, can you explain more about the "yard hydrant"....I'm interested to know what it is and how it works, how it shuts it off below grade and I'm still not fully understanding the purpose of the "french drain" in this setup...

[@NaturesCadenceFarm]

Bike Ninja we have used these yard hydrants on both of our farms with excellent success. I found this amazing website that I believe will explain the yard hydrant in great detail. The french drain setup provides a place for the water to drain into without making the dirt around the fittings to become soupy and allow the hydrant to flop around and possibly cause fittings or pipe to fail. Thank for watching and asking! ~Mr. C. blog.boshart.com/how-to-operate-a-yard-hydrant-and-common-uses

[@bikeninja956]

@@NaturesCadenceFarm ok, thanks for the clarification!

[@WeThePeople9069]

Subscribed, thanks man

[@NaturesCadenceFarm]

@Mike Jones sweet! Thanks for the sub. You rock!!! ~Mr. C.

[@WiSeNhEiMeR-1369]

Howdy N-C-F, ... Thanks COOP ...

[@NaturesCadenceFarm]

@WiSeNhEiMeR-1369 hello! You are very welcome. Thanks for watching. ~Mr. C.

[@nathanp5990]

Dumb question but at the beginning why didn't water come out when you took the cap off the well? At what point does the well hold pressure?

[@NaturesCadenceFarm]

@Nathan P that is an excellent question, no dumb questions here. If you don't know, ask. Think of the well pipe like a straw in a glass of water and the water in the ground like the glass of water. The straw (pipe) just provides a safe and secure place for the submersible pump to live in. The pump pushes water from the bottom of the well up a smaller internal pipe to provide water to the rest of the system. I hope this explanation helps. If not, let me know. ~Mr. C.

[@nathanp5990]

@@NaturesCadenceFarm thanks so much

[@RKmndo]

The wellpump has to be pumping for water to come all the way up the pipe from the bottom of the well. Once you have everything connected, you can open the nearest hose-faucet outdoors and flip the circuit-breaker on for the wellpump. The wellpump should begin pumping water.

[@nathanp5990]

@@RKmndo thank you

[@mikewilliams2486]

How’s the poly pipe holding up for you so far ?

[@NaturesCadenceFarm]

Mike Williams the poly pipe is doing great! No problems out of the whole system. This spring we plan on tapping into it to run more yard hydrants. Thanks for checking in on how it is going. ~Mr. C.

[@brynnrogers5081]

How deep are you down?? here in MN standard for hydrants is 8 feet down! even though frost line is only 48 inches or something. I need to add a hydrant run to my existing well, and I would like to save the money and do it myself. (I have a backhoe on my deere) I am worried about hitting water or power when digging though....

[@NaturesCadenceFarm]

Brynn Rogers we live in central Virginia and the bury depth for our yard hydrant is 36". I would check with the local building inspector for bury depth to ensure you have a smooth installation and get many years of service out of it. You can save a lot of money doing jobs yourself. In our area we can call 811 and schedule a utility marking crew to come out and mark all utilities around the area to be distributed. Check to see if that works for your area. Thanks for watching and asking! ~Mr. C.

[@TheDogDad]

Fox Mulder left the life of searching for the truth and now lives a quiet life on a farm.

[@NaturesCadenceFarm]

TheDogDad we love the X-Files! We have a Great Pyrenees named Fox Mulder and his Great Pyrenees mate is named Dana Scully. The truth is out there...

[@cscheatum]

Is that PEX piping you used??

[@NaturesCadenceFarm]

Cameron we used Pex A from the pressure tank to the rest of the plumbing in the trailer. The pipe in the video is black polyethylene 1" pipe. I will provide a link to where I purchased mine. I am not sponsored at this retailer. Thanks for asking. ~Mr. C. www.homedepot.com/p/Advanced-Drainage-Systems-1-in-x-300-ft-IPS-200-psi-NSF-Poly-Pipe-X2-1200300/205909027

[@mariahidalgo2840]

Congratulations thanks for sharing a great idea. Wanted to see the complete work! :)

[@NaturesCadenceFarm]

Maria Hidalgo we are glad you liked it. Thanks for commenting and watching. ~Mr. C.

[@robertturner6627]

Great job, only concern I saw was using the 1’ brass male nipple into the poly elbow. It will eventually split the poly elbow….would have been better to use a poly male nipple into the lower female blue poly and then the male poly into the hydrant female galv fitting…

[@NaturesCadenceFarm]

@Robert Turner thanks for the great information. We really appreciate thoughtful constructive input from viewers like you. If we have a problem in the future we will be sure to make a video about it. ~Mr. C.

[@monkeymangonewild]

Whoever the hell decided plastic piping was a good idea, they’re an idiot. My line keeps splitting and I can’t help but think how galvanized wouldn’t be splitting right now.

[@NaturesCadenceFarm]

@Craig Eldridge how old is your line? I have not had any problem yet with mine. Just wondering what I might be getting into. ~Mr. C.

[@tommellos6056]

Threading a stainless fitting in to a brass fitting is worse that using steel fittings. Dissimilar metals corrode fast. And seeing the wire connection inside of the well vs in a junction box out of the well cap tells me they're cheap pump installers

[@NaturesCadenceFarm]

Tom Mellos I first want to thank you for your input. All of your items of concern warrant consideration. I have inquired about this with my cheap pump installers that have been in business for 80 years with a very good reputation. I was assured the alloys of brass (alloy 360 brass) and stainless steel (310) are compatible and it will provide years of worry free service. As for the connections in the well casing their reply was "that is how it is done in the industry," and they have never heard of placing a junction box in or on the casing. Their reply was interesting because the box would need to be screwed to the casing causing holes thus possibly allowing surface water to enter the well. If it were not attached it would just be extra weight that could pull the wires causing chaffing. Thank you again for your input and concern that this plumbing system will last as long as possible. ~Mr. C. For more information on dissimilar metals in plumbing systems check out this informative website. shorturl.at/fmyHV

[@matts3729]

@@NaturesCadenceFarm You can attach a junction box to a wooden or steel post driven into the ground next to the casing. That's not difficult to figure out.