Accurate Point Motor Fitting. Video #37

[@Alan-vs7it]

This is a job that has very nearly driven me insane. Followed your advice and finally I have a working point. Thanks for the advice.

[@WestBlythMPD]

Glad to be of help

[@Deltic1951]

What an excellent, informative video! I shall definitely employ your techniques next time that I need to install a point motor. Over the years, I have spent many an hour struggling with them. One of the key things must be to lock both the tie bar and the point motor in their central positions.

[@WestBlythMPD]

Thank you for your comment

[@qwincyq6412]

Thanks for this! Fitting those motors and getting them aligned properly has been the bane of my existence and endlessly frustrating.

[@WestBlythMPD]

I am pleased that you found the video helpful, thank you for your comment.

[@peterlloyd9101]

I'd like to echo all the previous complimentary comments on this video. It's the only one I've found on the subject that's absolutely idiot-proof every step of the way, and anticipates all the many potential snags. More please.

[@WestBlythMPD]

Hello Peter, thank you for your kind comments I'm pleased you liked the video. Michael

[@tonyhill6296]

May I suggest prewiring the point motor and the aux switch before fitting below the baseboard. I leave long (250mm) leads so as to make the final connection (tag strip or choc block) location flexible. I also bond the switch rails to the stock rails on each side and take a pair of dropper wires down below the baseboard too, via a single central hole between the sleepers. By doing this you ensure you are not dependant upon the tiny switches built in at manufacture to make the circuits to the frog, thus ensuring more reliable running in the long term. When using Seep point motors I have jig to identify the fixing holes. These are drilled and counters inked to clear a 4BA set screw. The fixing 😂holes in the Seep motors are tapped 4BA and now all fitting and fixing can be done from above. Finally I mask and mark the location of the screw heads with card ‘drain covers’ painted black or grey. Happy Modelling Tony 🚂

[@ucuuba]

Many thanks for this, I’ve not touched my layout for nearly two years because I couldn’t get my point motors fitted and working for the same reasons you stated. I’ve been itching to get started on it again but I can’t do anything else until I’ve fitted 13 of them. With any luck this method will get me back on track (no pun intended)👍👍

[@WestBlythMPD]

Phil thanks for your comment, let me know how you get on.

[@kintyjunction5044]

So glad that found this was getting very frustrated was at the point of giving up but slept on it and tried your method was so much easier and completed it easily many thanks again 😊

[@WestBlythMPD]

Glad it helped you

[@andywest1007]

Excellent methodical approach. Just goes to show the importance of preparation - i.e. making a simple assembly jig before hand. Many thanks for sharing this.

[@WestBlythMPD]

Thank you for your comment, I hope you find it useful. Michael

[@paredding]

I'm with you Michael, fitting motors from underneath is a PITA. I am on my 14th Cobalt and the toughest part is actually screwing the motor from underneath as the flange allowance is vfery narrow (where the screw goes in) and the screws supplied are not great ie dome heads but the grooves arent very sharp. I use your method to centralise the switch rails and drill a 10mm hole so that lines it up and the pilot hole I drill from above through the switchblade tie bar sets the position to drill the larger hole. From the underside, all you can do is hold the motor in place with one hand and drill pilot holes for the screws but because the motor body is so deep facing down, its tough getting the drill chuck in so you have to mark each one. As you say, all in all a PITA. I also agree with you and leave that frog wire lead in place and just feed it below, the less soldering the better.

[@WestBlythMPD]

Hi, thanks for commenting. I am not familiar with Cobalt point motors, the size of them always put me off using them but I do know exactly what you mean with the fixing screws. The screws supplied with the Peco point motor mounting plates are exactly the same as the one's you described, domed heads and barely enough of a slot to get a decent screwdriver into which makes a horrible job even worse! Stay safe Michael

[@ColinBurnikell]

What a great video. Some great hints & tips too. Thanks.

[@gavinwilliamson681]

Excellent video - simple yet invaluable advice. Well done and thank you. Hope to see many more practical time and back saving tips like this one.

[@WestBlythMPD]

Hello Gavin, thank you for you kind comment, I found that this method of fitting point motors drastically reduces the time spent under the baseboard trying to get point motors lined up correctly. Stay safe Michael

[@reubenortiz2309]

I liked how you made the jig to keep the pin centered on the motor before pressing it to the board. nice job.

[@WestBlythMPD]

Yes it came in very handy, thank you for your comment Reuben.

[@gantondale]

Excellent. Thank you. I have had the same problems as you, and now I will be under my baseboards with renewed energy. Cheers.

[@WestBlythMPD]

Thank you for your comment, let me know how you get on. Michael

[@paulappswildlifeart]

For a mere beginner your video is a great help many thanks to you.

[@WestBlythMPD]

Thank you for your comment. I'm pleased the video might be of use to you. Michael

[@stormbowman7148]

Great explanation. I am doing some what of the same procedure you are doing. For centering the throw bar I am using a piece of 0.25mm2 cable. It works the same as the plasticard.

[@WestBlythMPD]

Thanks for your comment, great news that the video has been a help to you.

[@alanwarren2861]

Just about to build my first layout over here in Canada. This has to be one of the best videos I have seen on the subject and removed my apprehension about fitting the 20 or so point motors I have! Many thanks.

[@WestBlythMPD]

Thanks for the kind words Alan, the method I have used has worked very well for me so hopefully you will get your motors fitted ok without problems, it is still uncomfortable working under baseboards but at least it doesn't take as long now. Michael

[@robbeachler7916]

Saved me a second day of trying to install my motor. This Yank sez thanks!

[@Dazkinnersley]

excellent video Michael, I've tried fitting the Peco PL-10E point motors to the underside of my baseboard and have found it to be a bit of a pain. I like the idea of centralising the switch blades and locking the pin in place, brilliant. Also, I know that some people have used the track cutters to shorten the pin & ruined them, I'll invest in a pair of tinsnips. Cheers, Daz

[@WestBlythMPD]

Hi Daz, yep track cutters are no good for those point motor pins. A Dremel and cut-off disc works well but if you try and cut through in one go the heat generated will melt the hole in the point tie bar making the point not switch over properly, don't ask how I know!!! Michael

[@robbrowne5184]

Great video , just getting started on my lay out but I can see this way of fixing points motors will be a great help , many thanks

[@WestBlythMPD]

Thank you very much for your comment, I hope that you find the video useful. Michael

[@simonfunwithtrains1572]

Best method see so far, you could make the cross for location of the motor before the 3mm hole is drilled, centred on a small pilot hole. This would improve the accuracy in the final fitting. great method I will fit all my new point motors this way.

[@davestanwick4386]

Great,well made,simple and informative.Thanks Michael.

[@WestBlythMPD]

Thank you for your comment Dave

[@jadeandpearl-norwegianfore6911]

Fantastic! Great video and just what I was searching for to attempt my instal. My first layout and a very good tutorial for me to learn and apply. Thanks 👍🐨🇦🇺

[@WestBlythMPD]

I'm glad you found it useful, thank you for your comment. Michael

[@AmazeTase]

Thanks very much Michael. I'll get one ordered. Thanks again. Keep up the good work and videos mate!

[@086DEN]

Great stuff, thanks lad, handy info there.

[@robfern4580]

T hank you like your plastic idea. John R from Australia

[@WestBlythMPD]

Many thanks for your comment.

[@thegodmyth6996]

Great idea about holding the points in centre as well as the pin ( i hated pl10's as much as you did) cheers

[@WestBlythMPD]

Thank you very much for your comment.

[@andybyrne50]

This is an extremely good,and an excellent how to do video ! Cheers for a great share...Andy

[@WestBlythMPD]

Cheers Andy, I still hate fitting point motors but it is a little bit easier. Thanks for your comment. Michael

[@andybyrne50]

Yes I don't think it's my favourite job ,like you say crawling underneath the board,and I suffer with fluid on the knees,as I'm a landscaper ..not nice lol Andy

[@DungeWoodRailway]

Superb video, I'll definitely be trying this method for fitting points, wish I'd seen this before I did my three way points... cheers

[@WestBlythMPD]

Thank you for your comment, It has certainly saved me some time and pain!! Michael

[@garydoc]

¡Hola Michael! I’m about to fit Guagemaster PM1 point motors to a brand new layout. Watching your video has given sound direction for aligning and securing motors to the baseboard. I think my only addition would be to complete any necessary wiring to the motor before final installation.

[@WestBlythMPD]

Thanks for your comment, I am glad you found it helpful.

[@pmr5346]

Thanks for this video, very easy to follow and will help me a lot. Cheers

[@WestBlythMPD]

Thanks for your comment, I'm glad you found it helpful. Michael

[@sjpbutcher]

Brilliant video this is something I’ve always struggled with and this way looks like a game changer. By the way I love your accent 🙂

[@WestBlythMPD]

Hi, thank you very much for your kind comment, I didn't have much luck aligning point motors but luckily it all seems a lot easier and quicker to do. Take care Michael

[@FredWilbury]

Hi just found your channel .....great tips on your vids ....also liked the one on fitting wire coupling ....thanks .......regards fred

[@WestBlythMPD]

Thanks for your very kind comments Fred

[@SimonLivertonCentral]

Just come across this video, brilliant idea and will be buying a GM669 Pin Pusher. Cannot understand why two silly people clicked thumbs down...Simon

[@MrDavil43]

That is so helpful. Simply brilliant. Thanks. About to start track laying on my first layout for over twenty years and now can't wait to get going! Incidentally, do you wire the points before laying?

[@matey6760]

Excellent video! I am now all out of excuses, the point fitting really had me intimidated but not anymore..... Cheers.... Ian.....

[@WestBlythMPD]

Thanks for your comment Ian, let me know how you get on. Michael

[@AlanSurgeoner]

good video but I can see how that would be so awkward while you are underneath and trying to draw the lines to match up etc . Never the less your hard work is paying off with the layout Michael ,, thanks ,Alan

[@WestBlythMPD]

Hi Alan, thanks for your comment, yes putting the pencil lines on is a bit of a pain but what a difference it is making to the point motor alignment. Michael

[@adrianabbott4623]

Interesting. I am just starting in model railways but in N Gauge. I have been playing about seeing how I can fit the PECO 10E points with varying degrees of success, most of which taking ages! I am going to try your method but as you probably know, the fixing hole for the motor pin is on the outside of the points in N gauge, not in the centre as in 00 gauge so difficult to hide. Your method will probably work but I'm not sure how I can hide the hole on the outside of the points. Maybe a small piece of plasticard which would then be covered by the ballast??

[@WestBlythMPD]

Thanks for your comment, yes I think that plasticard and ballast would work, just be careful with the glue.

[@WestBlythMPD]

Thanks for your comment, yes all modifications are done before the point is laid and fixed down. Michael

[@Haymarket47]

Wish I had this before I built my layout. Great advice for the future though!

[@WestBlythMPD]

Thank you for your comment. Michael

[@me231951]

Thanks, great video.

[@randysrockandrollrailroad8207]

Great video! This helps me alot

[@WestBlythMPD]

Thank you for your comment. Michael

[@adampatterson4398]

Great vid', great quality, great content. :)

[@WestBlythMPD]

Thanks for the comment Adam Michael

[@tugwilsond8907]

Great explanation, thank you 👍

[@WestBlythMPD]

Thank you very much for your comment.

[@AmazeTase]

Nice informative video - very helpful. Quick question please. What's the tool used to bang in the the track pins and where can I get one from please?

[@WestBlythMPD]

Hi Thanks for your comment, the tool I used is called a Pin Pusher and I got mine from Gaugemaster GM669 Worth every penny! Michael

[@SPCcov]

To do this job in a lot shorter time check out SPC Alignment tools for Peco & Seep point motors with more procession plus smaller diameter hole.

[@MrBluephil1967]

Brilliant! Thanks

[@WestBlythMPD]

Thank you for your comment

[@robinpoulton3352]

Hi any chance you could let me know what size I-Beam you use. Great vid by the way easy to follow will deffo use your method.

[@WestBlythMPD]

Hi Robin, sorry for the late reply, the I beam I used is 'Evergreen Stripstyrene' number 277. Size is1/4 inch or 6.4mm. Hope this helps, let me know how you get on. Michael

[@robinpoulton3352]

Great tip worked a treat

[@danielsmith2295]

How do you program it with Hornby Elite and the R8274 Hornby Point Decoder?

[@WestBlythMPD]

Hi, My points aren't operated by DCC but DC so all that is needed is a SPDT centre off biased switch. Michael

[@ef7480]

Hi Michael can you tell me where you got the track pin insertion tool from? That looks really useful. Must admit, never seen one of those before. Many thanks PJ

[@WestBlythMPD]

Hi PJ, Sorry for the late reply, I got mine from Gaugemaster. www.gaugemaster.com/item_details.asp?code=GM669

[@ef7480]

WestBlythMPD brilliant! Thanks

[@WestBlythMPD]

Hi, my point motors are operated by DC so all that is needed is a PSU and a SPDT switch. Michael

[@TheDuke-vb9cq]

Why crawl around on the floor fitting point motors or wiring? If the layout is built in individual baseboard chunks. You simply build two wooden vertical stands with large flat feet. Drill a hole in the centre of each end of the baseboard, and bolt the board between the vertical stands. Then you can turn the board over and over as required to install point motors etc.

[@WestBlythMPD]

Probably Peco points have been improved since then, I dont have any problems with motors or points. Your idea of fitting point motors seem a bit long-winded to me but hey if it works for others that great.

[@scothome2010]

Hi Nigel Have a question to ask, I have a double/single slip crossings and having trouble understanding the Peco paperwork on how to wire them up; So please can you help me out, The crossings are code 100 insulfrog and do not show any loose wiring like shown on the youtube. just showing the top of the crossing - not the underneath {Please help me out}

[@WestBlythMPD]

Hello Nigel, I only have one single slip on my layout and it is a Peco 'Insulfrog' type so no additional modifications were needed. The point used in the video was a Peco 'Electrofrog' point and only needed two link wires cutting, the stock and switch rails bonded and the thin wire connected to a micro switch for polarity switching. If I can help further let me know Michael

[@tonyhill6296]

Here is how I do my INSULAFROG Slips - Fit insulated rail joiners to EVERY rail of the Slip. Wire a ‘dropper’ wire to the outside face of each side of the Slip, in the centre. Connect the Slip droppers to the middle terminals of a DPDT three position (centre off) toggle switch. Wire the outer terminals of the switch to the adjacent feeder tracks. The factory fitted wire links will take care of the frog feeds, no need to modify the ‘out of the box’ connections. To operate - Choose the route through the Slip with the point motors and select the line feeding the ENTRY into the Slip, via the toggle switch. Drive the train through the Slip. If the train stalls when initially tested, Reverse the two feed wires connected to the toggle switch. Good Luck T🚂

[@emoh8765TinsleyTmd_YardModel]

Merry Xmas and happy new year michael from us at Tinsley Tmd

[@WestBlythMPD]

Thank you for the nice comment Simon. Michael

[@just1bobm793]

Very helpful.

[@WestBlythMPD]

Thank you for commenting Michael

[@55commodore]

Most people don't know that the point motor mounts directly to the point. No need to mount it on a bracket and try to line it up, cut a rectangle hole in your board, fit point motor to point and it just doesn't get any easier. My father has been modelling for over 20 years and he didn't even know this till I brought it to his attention.

[@WestBlythMPD]

Thanks for commenting, I knew about that fitment method and had considered it but went for the other option instead, a lot quicker to drill a hole from the top of the baseboard than gouge out a rectangle underneath. Its all down to preferences I suppose. Michael

[@JamesSmith-zk8gl]

Thank you “tin snips” lol

[@WestBlythMPD]

Glad you found it amusing.

[@tonyfearn2452]

surely a far,far more easier way would be to just attach the point motor directly to the bottom of the point itself then cut a small square into your baseboard and simply then just fit the point and its attached motor assembly straight into the small hole ??

[@WestBlythMPD]

Thanks for your comment.

[@boatman909]

Only problem is that when you come to ballast, especially if using small size particles, it falls through the large hole and gets into the point motor and any attached switch underneath. Also, if the point motor fails, you have to pull up the whole turnout to change it. I went this route for my last 4 layouts, and came to the conclusion there must be a better way. This is a good solution.

[@railwaymechanicalengineer4587]

TOY TRAIN SET OR PROFESSIONAL LAYOUT STANDARD ??? Never use SOLENOID POINT MOTORS they'll eventually rip out the Peco hair spring or break it. Use a nice easy screw under the baseboard "Slow action Motor driven type" such as Fulgurex. They last for Decades even on heavy duty exhibition layouts, and come with free built in switches for live Frog's or signal interlocking or whatever you fancy. And are aimed at Professionals !!!

[@WestBlythMPD]

Thanks for the tip but I am happy with what I am using.

[@tikkykopmostert5972]

I got lot of lights

[@farmerdave7965]

Electrofrog is wonderful. Insulfrog is rubbish.

[@WestBlythMPD]

Thank you for your comment.

[@heli-man-]

Fell asleep waiting to see but it’s been done before

[@WestBlythMPD]

So sorry about that, I hope that you had a nice sleep. I wouldn't watch any more of my videos just in case they have been done before as well😊

[@PointingTheWeigh]

There is always one that will give a negative comment! I feel that this channel is very good and has helped me and loads of others.