WH38X10019 Replacing Your Ge Washer's Drive Shaft - AP5630245 , PS3652839, 2319465.

Part WH38X10019 can be found at www.pcappliancerepair.com/inqu...
You may need to replace your washer drive shaft if you notice that the washer drum isn’t rotating effectively or at all, or if your washer if making loud noise during operation. Mike from Point & Click Appliance Repair will take you step- by-step through replacing your washer belt. (Part number WH38X10019) on a GE washer (model number GTWN4250D0WS).
*WARNING: Before starting any repair, always make sure that the appliance is completely disconnected from the power source by unplugging it. This tutorial is meant to be a guide and should not be used in place of the installation instructions provided by the manufacturer.
Tools Needed:
-Channel locks
-1/4” Nut Driver
-5/16, 3/8, & 7/16 Nut Driver
- ½” Nut Driver
-Flat Head Screwdriver
-Needle nose Pliers
- Pliers
-2 Putty Knives
-Hammer
-3/8 Wrench
-Zip Tie
-Box Cutter
- 3/8 Socket Wrench
-Spanner Wrench
Step-by-step how-to instructions on replacing your washer belt.
1.) Unplug your appliance
2.) Loosen and remove the water inlet hoses from the water inlet valve.
3.) Remove the top control assembly using a 1/4" nut driver and take out the screws from the back.
4.) Push up on the control assembly and slide it out.
5.) Unplug all the wires going to the main control board.
6.) Using putty knives, clip into the front locks of the front panel and remove it.
7.) Remove the screws that hold the top of the washer in place with the washer cabinet.
8.) Lift up on the front of the washer and slide it out of position a little.
9.) Using a flat head screwdriver, push the lid switch through the top of the washer, pull it out and slide it through.
10.) Remove the top of the washer from the machine.
11.) Using a 1/4" nut driver, remove the screws and slide the white end caps out. Then remove the back.
12.) Using Needle nose pliers , remove the water level switch hose and slide it through.
13.) Using a 5/16 nut driver, remove the four dampening strips from the tub and remove the top cover. Using your hands lift up on this clip and pull up all around the tub.
14.) Lift the top cover of the lid out. Remove the agitator
15.) Using a 7/16 nut driver remove the agitator nut and lift up removing the agitator coupling.
16.) Remove the nut hub but placing a spanner wrench on top and hitting it with a hammer in the direction it says to loosen. Once loose, spin hub nut off with hands.
17.) Remove the inner tub of the washer. Using needle nose pliers disconnect the pressure hose from the side of the tub.
18.) Disconnect the drain hose from the side of the tub. After, remove all the wires from the motor and the motor frame.
19.) Disconnect any wires that are connected to any part of the tub inside or outside. Disconnect the wire motor.
20.) Disconnect all the rods from the washer, then remove the 2 front rods and pull the tub out.
21.) Push out the rod supports, then push the tub out of the front of the washer on its side and lay it upside down.
22.) Remove the drive belt by pulling up with it with the belt in our hands and sliding it off the pulley
23.) Using a 3/4 wrench and a hammer, remove the bolt that holds the driver pulley to the drive shaft
24.) Lift up on the drive pulley and remove it
25.) Using a 3/8 nut driver, remove these three screws. Next using a 1/2" nut driver remove the screw that are holding the frame to the outside of the tub
26.) Reconnect our drainage hose to the drainage pipe. Reconnect all the wires to the motor and motor frame assembly. Then, reattach the pressure switch hose.
27.) Place the inner drum back into the washer then replace our hub nut spinning it into position with our hands.
28.) Place the spanner wrench on top and hit it with a hammer in the opposite direction to tighten it so it does not move the drive shaft.
29.) Disconnect any wires that may be attached to the frame and the drive shaft
30.) Cut the zip tie and remove the screws that hold the drive shaft to the frame. Place frame to the side
31.) Lift up and pull out drive shaft. Replace with new OEM drive shaft
32.) Place the frame over the drive shaft, align the drive shaft with the frame
33.) Replace all screws that attach the bottom frame to the drive shaft and then the frame to the tub
34.) Replace the zip tie that was previously cut
35.) Replace the pulley nut, drive pulley, and spin drive belt onto the pulley.
36.) Place the tub back into the cabinet carefully.
37.) Replace and reconnect the rear and front suspension rods.
38.) Replace the hub washer and suspension ring onto the drive shaft.
39.) Place inner tub back into the washer and replace hub nut with spanner wrench.
40.) Replace agitator and agitator coupling, then place top cover of the washer back into position.

[@TheBigPollack]

This video was spot on for replacing my GE Washer's drive shaft. My agitator was a little different than the one in the video but I still was able to figure this out. Saved me $500+ bucks. It took me about 3 hrs to do the repair since I cleaned the gunk from the back side of the stainless steel wash tub while I had it apart. I put the washer all back together and when I went to test the washer I was getting 2 beeps once I pushed the start button. I decided to re-check the electrical connections to the motor and board again and learned I didn't fully connect one of the plugs to the motor so save yourself the headache of disassembling a 2nd time and check the electrical connections to the motor and board before proceeding to the next step in re-assembly. Thanks PC Appliance Repair!

[@ToothlessTanker]

Couldnt find that hub spanner anywhere. Got a 1-11/16 socket from tractor supply, worked like a charm

[@rosesheppard5449]

Worked like a charm! That's for your video!

[@condor5635]

These is a $150-$170 part. I did a video on how to replace the bearing in the mode shifter. The bearing cost $10 or so. Although it takes a little more time it’s not that difficult of a job and saves you a lot of money. It’s the main bearing that typically gets water on it from the main tub seal which should be changed at the same time. Save yourself over $150 and just replace the bearing. Thanks for the video

[@rotcod2886]

If I can get the whole assembly for $75, should I just do that? And should I even bother with the tub bearing?

[@cliffordwalters4729]

My ge washer is a 121g and the agitator is sealed how do I get it out of the tub?

[@terrydoberstein6742]

Would the reason you would need to replace this part ( mine is Wh38x10017) IS because you only hear a metal grinding noise when it agitates? Thank You for your time.

[@screechy003]

Did the drive shaft sit flush against the seal after you fastened it to the base?

[@rotcod2886]

My GE washer model GTWN4250M1WS makes lots of noise spinning. From what I can tell, replacing the tub bearing likely is not even the issue, it's more likely the WH38X10017 mode shifter bearing. I don't think I can handle just replacing the bearing in the mode shifter assembly. But I can get the whole unit and shaft for $75 bucks. If I replace the tub seal, the washer, the mode shifter/shaft assembly, do I even need to bother with the tub bearing? Oh and should I invest in the spanner wrench?

[@johnvandenberghe6621]

When reattaching my new drive shaft to the frame , my screw holes appear to not be threaded. Am I "rethreading " the holes from the top with the screws to cut new threads or do I have a factory defect??

[@barbie4679]

I so need some help!!! My Whirlpool Washer #WTW4616FW1 on spin cycle makes this sound like a jet engine taking off; quiet to super loud but with no grinding noise. I thought it was the bearings until lastnight i took my entire washer apart and ran into not being able to get access to the bearings due to the gear box being all welded closed. I dont know what my next steps are that would diagnose my washers problem to get it back to working condition....People are telling me its the bearings, but i cant get to the bearings, & told them even on the whirlpool website that sells my washers parts, it doesnt even have replacement bearings listed....Im going to wait until i hear from you before i do anything major like ordering wrong parts and putting it back together & it still doesnt work...lol Thanks & look forward to hearing back from you!

[@bigd835]

Ive done this job twice on the same GE washer. my transmission got really noisy after a water leak let some water run down the drive shaft and get into the bearings. The bearing is not water proofed, shame on GE for that. The second time I did the transmisison was more difficult. first, the stainless steel tub would not come out of the machine. With the nut off, the tub just stuck in the machine like it was nailed down. I hit the spindle of the drive shaft within the tub with a hammer, tapping it on each side of the spindle. that let my tub come out. After i got the outer plastic tub assembly out of the machine., the tranmission would not come out of the plastic tub. It had seized inside the metal sleeve that fits into the bottom of the tub. I had to put the tub up on some sawhorses and pound on the spindle to get it to come out. in the process of pounding it out the tranmission broke internally. I had no choice but to keep pounding to get it out. If you can afford it, and if your machine is old, buy a new plastic tub. I did, but wanted to try and rebuild the old transmision with a new bearing, but ruined it because it would not release from the tub. Lastly, i tried to add some permatex to the new seal when i set it into the plastic tub. bad idea. the seal is ribbed, and so is the plastic tub where it accepts the seal. the permatex would not let the ribs mate up, and the seal kept popping out of the tub. I finally figured that out, wiped the seal off, and then put it in and it held. it takes a good amount of pushing to get that seal in. I bought a new tub, split nut, shaft washer and shaft bearing along with a transmission. Im glad i did. the old components were really seized together and very difficult to seperate. The video is fantastic for taking you through the steps. its not a hard job unless your components have seized.

[@JohnFChick]

Great video, thanks! What size spanner wrench do we need?

[@Android_Warrior]

1 11/16"

[@kevinholbert5633]

Agitator not lifting off

[@Papayajoseph]

@@kevinholbert5633 sure you have another washer but I had to pull it up with some force knowing this model comes out

[@willtupuola5340]

My tub and whole unit it sways to hard it’s banging hard it’s not smooth when washing

[@rosesheppard5449]

Replaced the shaft. All teeth were broke. Now the washer walks violently across the floor, which it wasn't doing before. Any suggestions?

[@pcappliancerepair]

If your washer is moving across your floor, check to see that the leveling legs are all down on the floor. A lot of times, an appliance rocking around is caused by uneven leveling legs.

[@rosesheppard5449]

@@pcappliancerepair leveled the washer and everything looks great. It only walks on last spin cycle. Violently walks!!

[@kef103]

Yeah that nut does not come off that easy lol

[@MixedGoku]

How did you get yours off I'm having the same problem

[@kef103]

Either cut thru it with a saw or use a bearingSeparator

[@Papayajoseph]

@@MixedGoku specific spanner wrench that I had to special order and then used a heavy hammer to get that thing off.

[@bigd835]

remember the nut is reverse threaded. you turn it clockwise to loosen it. and yes, it is put on TIGHT at the factory. you need a hammer and the correct hub nut wrench to get it off. it will surprise you how tight it is torqued.

[@ToothlessTanker]

Buy a 1-11/16 socket, impact gun lol

[@TheCHAGO77]

Thats not a real gear case.

[@TheCHAGO77]

This washer is the scam of the washers, i rather the old models , in my country this unit is giving us a hard time to both technicians and customers.and it does not wash properly.

[@Android_Warrior]

What Country are you?

[@TheCHAGO77]

@@Android_Warrior Dominican Republic.

[@Android_Warrior]

@@TheCHAGO77 : MANGÚ!👍😋😋😋