“But obviously, if you’r putting a screwdriver across the tracks of your model railway, you deserve to have bad things happen to you, okay” -Sam 2020
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
haha - it's true!! ;D
@sunj3754 жыл бұрын
i found it useful..as i've accidentally done it
@datguymiller4 жыл бұрын
You're*
@Ihatelockups3 жыл бұрын
When you do that it short Circuit on oo scale
@davidbugler45973 жыл бұрын
My father's 1930s Hornby 0 Gauge system -- 3-rail, of course, and all-metal rolling-stock -- had protection. The transformer/controller was a primitive version of the simple but sturdy Marshall II you tested. The protection was a separate naked square of fibreboard holding two terminals in series with the track supply, with a piece of ordinary domestic fuse-wire across the terminals. As a kid I had no idea what an amp even was, but it was most likely 5-amp wire. Dad soon trained us in putting fresh bits of fuse-wire between the terminals. Boy, did we get through a lot of the stuff.
@SamsTrains3 жыл бұрын
Blimey - I suppose that is pretty important for all-metal rolling stock too! Thanks for sharing David! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@tarkas5663 жыл бұрын
Very interesting stuff, Sam. My very old (early 60s) Tri-ang controller -- which was about the size of your Gaugemaster unit -- had short-circuit protection in the form of a pop-up breaker that I remember popping a few times. It was simple to reset: just turn off the current and push the breaker back in, and you should be ready to go. Can't rate it as you have because I didn't have any of the equipment that you use, but I remember the breaker being pretty quick to cut in, and certainly nothing ever got damaged before it did. An interesting design feature was that it had 4 sets of connections, 2 of which were controlled by the dial (though there was only one, so what happened if you hooked them both up, I have no idea) and 2 which were direct -- which really meant that you needed some other sort of controller, or at least a switch, to control the current through them. It did mean that I could run both my trains and a Minic car set at the same time by using the Minic controllers. Luckily, the level crossing was designed so that It didn't short out either circuit or the controller as a whole.
@skuula4 жыл бұрын
The Bachmann _does_ have a short circuit protection, namely its 800 mA current limitation. It will not protect a motor armature very well, but there will be no fire either. The alternative to just limiting, which cuts out the power completely is called a foldback protection. If there is a current limiter and a temperature foldback, that is getting quite good. These controllers all seemed to protect themselves well (the old one just by being overbuilt), but not all would protect a stalled motor. We all love the "click" noise of the Gaugemaster in your videos, when you change the direction :)
@davidchilds13754 жыл бұрын
Good answer. It's all down to Ohm's Law. A stalled motor will draw current according to its stalled resistance.
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
Yes that's true - but I think 800mA is quite a lot, especially when it's supplied continuously under short circuit condition - the best controllers detect this, and cut the power. And correct - the stalled resistance of motors is much lower than under normal operation due to the lack of EMF produced by the motor in motion - hence the massive currents! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@davidchilds13754 жыл бұрын
@@SamsTrains Sorry to keep on, but I would be interested to see the characteristic curve of the output under load. It may be that Bachmann have a cunning circuit that keeps voltage constant to a point then goes 'over a cliff'. By the way, I have just been given one of those Meccano PSU's and it seems to be a tapped transformer (ie a voltage control). I haven't opened it up to have a look yet. OK for testing though. I design transformers for a living.
@trainguy6114 жыл бұрын
Two words: “Ka” and “Boom”
@LHoriginal4 жыл бұрын
Lol
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
haha!! xD
@Frserthegreenengine4 жыл бұрын
I read that in Demoman's voice
@riffraff79494 жыл бұрын
Ya got that right.
@MarcusWhitelam4 жыл бұрын
I can just imagine shrek shouting *KA BOOM!!* lol
@SniartekilI4 жыл бұрын
I had a short circuit once. I tried to put one of my grandparents wagons on my railway, but they are completely metal because on my grandparents’ track the power goes through a middle rail but I use dcc. Luckily my controller had a protector!
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
Ahh yes I've had wagons like that before - yes protection will have been very important in that case! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@vik82184 жыл бұрын
Sam tries to make a bomb using model railway controllers for 23 minutes straight.
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
haha!! xD
@theblocksmith6454 жыл бұрын
Lol 😂
@Mr_Smidge4 жыл бұрын
Lol
@nathanthesaddletankengine4 жыл бұрын
Looks like we have a new bomb for a war now
@gamingwithlukeJToH8 ай бұрын
the military would be proud. and then they would ban model railway controllers for being literal live bombs you can just order online for a few pounds.
@viridiscoyote70384 жыл бұрын
I was a kid (5-6 years old?) that had been given a typical HO scale train set for Christmas. I ran it and ran it of hours on end (my parents had thrown away the manual & packaging but also incorrectly assembled the track for me to wake up to, that's how I knew they'd bought it), probably to the point the motor would have died but it kept on running. Eventually, (maybe 7-8 years old) I began to get extremely curious as to the function and control of the train. I saw at high speeds, there were sparks visible from under the drive wheels so it must have been passing electricity from the rails into the train. I discovered (by gently placing a screw driver onto the track) shorting the circuit would stop the train, so I took the train off and began further investigating. I could generate decently large sparks (for a child) by slowly closing the gap between the inner rail, screwdriver and outer rail. I discovered that touching just one rail with the screwdriver didn't do anything, so whatever this "electrical circuit" stuff Dad had been talking about must mean electricity must flow into one side of the locomotive and out the other. At one point, the screwdriver got stuck (it physically welded) to the rail and I panicked, unstuck it, and, as a maniac of a child I was, tried to generate another spark. There was no spark. I panicked more. I put the loco on and tried to drive it. Nothing. I was heartbroken. I thought maybe I'd destroyed my one and only beloved locomotive but definitely the sparky electric knob-box. That is how I learned most of what I know about electricity today, but had to go to college to learn the maths of it. Edit: wrote comment before viewing, now finished watching. I wholeheartedly approve of the SSCSSSC approval method. Sam'sTrains (not to be long winded, there is a happy ending to this story, I promise) I was devastated that I had broken my most beloved toy; Legos were relatively affordable for me, so breaks or missing pieces could be replaced; sticks and stones broke Bonesy the skeleton, but I had a heck of a lot more stones and sticks. I did not have enough of a knowhow to jury-rig something 'redneck' style at that age so I moped and cried for a good month and started saving precious lawn mowing money (the best work dad offered for a child my capacity at $10 per yard (no matter the yard) and we had no constant allowance because that was for privileged kids) and half went to savings. Between my siblings and I all having to fight for this work, always putting half away for college, and only having one lawnmower, money came slowly (I remember saving for three months to afford a single Digimon VHS tape and then had to wait AGAIN for at least another month until we could afford both to take a trip to town and shop at the store that sold Digimon VHS tapes (the reason I bought tapes instead of watching or recording live broadcasts is another story)). I did, however, also remember something, a dream of finally entering a drawing, not being cheated by the drawers and getting something great in return, but had yet to actually win anything either from random-chance or skill based drawings for prizes before. At the county fair, (and I think it's still a thing nation wide) Operation Lifesaver (a level-crossing advocacy group) sets up a television, a few chairs and benches, and lets anyone curious to listen to the presenter or the VHS tapes of violent automobile/train simulated crashes (which are unsettling even as an adult, but boy howdy as a kid I certainly thought someone had been there with every single camera shot (possibly by time travel, if it existed), and physically threw the tape from person to person to get perfect cuts, angles, camera moves, and other digital media tricks that are entirely possible on live broadcasts today (again, I was a smart kid, but not bloody omnipotent)). I, for all intents and purposes, believed we had truly been to Pluto because I had heard about Pluto and Magic School Bus went there (isn't the purest form of childhood legitimately believing in magic?). What I was interested in was getting the raffle prize; an entire Bachmann set, and free to any child that puts their name in the raffle box. Being a child, I thought about these concepts of kindness, fairness, justice, death, hate, etc, but hadn't fully formulated what they meant to me yet. The Lifesaver man, although he was old, hadn't rode the rails in years, and was pretty jaded playing the same tapes over and over and seeing fewer kids take part every year as the local populations of 'Smalltown, America' dwindled (I think for us it was about the era the lumber mill was shutting down). All previous years, I limited myself to two entries, knowing that even if I lost the raffle or checked my empty pockets for corndog money. I felt I could entitle myself to six entries the next year. I spent all of my time the night of the drawing hoping and praying for a phone call. That night, there were only telemarketers. The next year, I was determined to win (especially spending long days working for no or little money). The next year, I spent every waking second entering my name and number, as the only limit to the prize was "name and number on one of these papers, I must see you write it, and you can enter as many times as you want." I like to think that, even if my name wasn't drawn, he chose my name anyway, just for the effort I put in. I later discovered he actually threw many of my entries away because nobody else could put more entries into the box. I love Operation Lifesaver man.
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
haha yes - I did all of this too - it's great for learning about electricity (if a bit dodgy) - another great value of train sets! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@RichardKuivila1947Ай бұрын
WOW ! War and Peace ia a short story compaired to this one ! (and it HAS been Edited !) . . . (and you thought Wylie was long winded !)
@JasperHuskyFox3 жыл бұрын
When you have the chart on screen, the two tracks with trains on them in the background is a nice, subtle, but very nice touch! I've been binge watching your videos alot, unfortunately I can't buy model trains due to the cost, but seeing someone enjoying their hobby, and testing lots of stuff like controllers, locos, tracks, and more in a scientific manner is very awesome to see! Can't wait to see more science testing-based videos! Greetings from Canada!
@SamsTrains3 жыл бұрын
Thanks so much - glad you like that!! Appreciate you sticking around - really glad you like the videos! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@importednascar4 жыл бұрын
0:17 0:19 and 0:22 Sam used EXPLOSION! *IT'S SUPER EFFECTIVE!* *Controllers 1-3 FAINTED!*
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
haha!! xD
@paulwilson30834 жыл бұрын
As always Sam a well put together and informative video, I'm a big fan of the Gaugemaster controller, I can control 240 feet of track on my garden railway without bus wires and they are very reliable and sturdy. Take care and thank you for posting Sam.
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
Thanks a lot Paul - yes I love those too - they are excellent!! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@EsotericArctos3 жыл бұрын
You need a wire wound rheostat for these sort of tests :). Those little variable resistors don't quite cut it. I sometimes find the Hornby Trainset Controller is sometimes a little bit too sensitive on its cut-out. Having a slight delay on the cut-out is a good thing. Probably up to about 1 second delay is good. I am not sure your trigger current was quite right. You measured that at the time the controller cut out, but if a controller takes 8 seconds to cut out, the trigger current could be lower. Thanks for the comparison. It gave a rough idea of what these can do.
@thebigboy-fr9bg2 жыл бұрын
Compared to the base Hornby controller, the Bachmann controller is quite basic when it comes to protection. I've had both, and the Hornby Controller is very restricting. the Hornby Controller doesn't let you change direction when there is any power to the controller, it turns off when something causes it to short circuit, but it feels much lighter and the plastic feel cheaper than the Bachmann controller.
@adamstroudley4 жыл бұрын
0:17 cringe 0:19 more cringe 0:22 ultimate cringe Edit: im dying in those parts 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
haha!! xD
@justinbuilt64574 жыл бұрын
0:24 When you ask your parents to buy you the Santa's Express, and you except certain liveries, but you get it with different liveries that you despise
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
haha!! xD
@cessnaace Жыл бұрын
When I was a kid we had a Model Rectifier Corporation Dual Loco Model 700 Controller. It never burned out or ruined a loco. Sometimes an Overload Indicator came on, but hitting reset it would be good to go. Made in USA. Input: 110 -120 volts; 60 cycles AC OUTOUT:4 Amps. Master Power Switch. Dual throttles. Each throttle power could be set to either Pulse or full; 0 - 12 volts DC; direction switch; Dual Overload Indicators; Circuit breaker Protected.
@alanhaynes45764 жыл бұрын
Sam, I used to own an original Tri-ang P6A controller from the 60's. They used a thermal cutout for overload protection. It worked by using a bi metal strip that was part of the circuit inside the controller. Under normal running current flowed and all was well. However when a short or overload occurred the bi metal strip heated up and bent which broke the circuit thus causing the power to the track to cut off. It had a red button just above the speed and direction knob which was used to reset once the short was removed. They were a very reliable controller using a rectifier instead of any electronics. Of course they were well suited to the 3 pole motors of the day. At the time it was deemed to be one of the best available with a beautiful all metal case in a sort of metallic blue finish. It had an A/C output to connect points controllers and an auxiliary 12volt dc for a slave controller to be connected. I remember using it at a friends place where we had a long train with as much rollingstock as we had with a triple header on the front. My original Stephenson's Rocket then an 0-4-0 diesel shunter (Not the Dock Shunter and Green in colour) followed by a steam loco which was I think a Princess class (it belonged to my friend). This all drew too much current and the red button used to pop out so we as 12/13 year old's kept it running by pressing in the red button. Very silly but in those days we thought it was fun. I am really surprised that the modern Hornby and Gaugemaster controllers were so bad. There is no way they should allow that much current onto the track. Modern transistor controllers since about the 1980's all as far as I knew had built in electronic short circuit protection so I wonder what has changed. Have you done a DCC test to see how they fair? They should be well within limits to avoid damage to the DCC chips in the locos I would think.
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
Hey Alan, thanks a lot for sharing - yes I have heard about those before - sounds like a pretty great feature to me!! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@alanhaynes45764 жыл бұрын
@@SamsTrains OOoops! I named the wrong controller. I had the P5A. The P6A was specifically designed for anyone that had catenary and allowed for a common return so you could run for example any of the regular track powered locos and another wire was connected to the catenary. I never saw one in person and am not fully sure if they were much different at the back where the connectors were but the unit itself looked identical from the front except for the P6A instead of P5A.
@bobmarkson53434 жыл бұрын
Very interesting video. I'm running my Ausicion Vline L series (L1160) loco from my DC power supply on my hornby dcc train set loop. The hornby dcc controller is great because of its short circuit protection which I've tripped a few times when running the dcc locos that came with it. But, when I'm running my Ausicion loco in pure dc, with a live read out of the changing amps is priceless. It's currently sitting at 0.7 volts with 0.08 - 0.10 amps depending on where the loco is in the loop, the model I'm currently running has lights etc so it's drawing a bit more. Finding the perfect voltage/sweet spot has been pure scale model locomotive bliss.
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
Thanks a lot Bob - and thanks for sharing, that's interesting! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@MrNicktheBeat Жыл бұрын
I'm currently building a twin track controller and the first components I ordered were those instantaneous 'pop up' overload cut outs similar to those used in the old Triang controllers. The noise when (if) they pop alerts you far better than an LED changing colour ( or not!).
@RNG_EDITS4 жыл бұрын
Sam you've already had one fire hazard in your loft! In all seriousness though great video!
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
haha this is true!! Thanks mate! :D Cheers, Sam :)
@Superbuchi4 жыл бұрын
Can't wait to try that new screwdriver tip with my new hornby tracks, thank you for the fun activity guide, Sam!
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
OH god - be careful, lol! ;D Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@Superbuchi4 жыл бұрын
Only joking of course, but thank you for the great video :)
@dwarvensteammine4 жыл бұрын
I love that you used the Tango for the Derailment. That made me smile
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
haha thank you - it's my go-to laughing-stock loco! ;D Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@SMTMainline4 жыл бұрын
Interesting experiment. I like how the cheap Mehano controller seemed to have a safety feature and some of the more pricy ones didn't. I have a few controllers from the 70s without circuit protection and I've seen them smoke when a short goes un-noticed... Not the type of thing I leave plugged in when not around.
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
Thank you! I know right - the Mehano was ultra well designed!! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@leilacentral18834 жыл бұрын
There is something about blowing things up or making them smoke that gives great satisfaction unless it was not intentional. The basic controllers surprised me because I would have expected them to not have any protection. But the more expensive units I would expect it and to perform much better. I'm installing a dedicated short circuit protection unit on my multideck layout and it has adjustable settings including its trigger. Ill be setting it at a low 1.5amps. Very interesting video Sam and keep well. Clint
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
This is very true - I've always loved blowing things up with electricity, lol! Me too - I was surprised the expensive controllers weren't more sensitive to short circuits - they certainly passed high current for much longer than expected! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@RichardKuivila1947Ай бұрын
Yup, Sam is waltzing along the edge. 1 - The size and design of the transformer is key to what is intended for AND how it is used. 2 - The components, at the transformer secondary output are used to rectify, filter and control the output DC to the rails counts TOO ! 3 - DON'T even get me going on abput Switching DC supplys !
@DomWhibley4 жыл бұрын
As a controller recommendation for anyone reading, I'd say the "Hammant and Morgan duette" is one of the best things you can get. I have 4 of them for my layout and they all serve me well. On high resistance and half power, the slow speeds are absolutely phenomenal. My S15 for example, I could only see moving when I put my eye right down next to it, but believe me, it was still moving (I time lapsed it to make sure I wasn't making it up.) I also has great short circuit protection and they'll last forever. They're often overlooked due to their age, but I'd choose them any day over an HM 2000 or gaugemaster controller. You may want to swap out the fuse in the plug however as a couple of mine came fitted with a 13A fuse.
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
Great to hear that Dom - I've always wanted to try one of those! Thanks for the recommendation as always! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@aCivilServant4 жыл бұрын
12:01 "The results there were absolutely shocking.....". Not sure if that was deliberate, but it made me smile :) Good video.
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
haha thank you, glad you liked it! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@AntonyLvids4 жыл бұрын
Another thing that this brings out is the danger of running dcc chipped locos with a DC controller. While dcc controllers cut out very fast with a short circuit, the Gaugemaster took much longer. I guess this is how I managed to fry a couple of dcc locos that came off on a crossover powered by dc. Now I will never run a dcc loco on a dc layout. They all have the CV29 blocked from dc. Thanks for the great test Sam!
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
Ahh that is interesting Antony - thanks for sharing this! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@highbrookendmodelrailway4 жыл бұрын
Another smashing video Sam, had flashbacks to the staring in the Dapol Water Tower (another explosive topic, eh?) video at 0:24! I have the Hornby 900 Power Control from years ago, not sure what that is rated for - although I doubt it will have short circuit protection! I normally go round with the back of a fridge magnet every few weeks just to make sure no metal is near by - with the power off. My locomotives only draw around 100-200 milliamps, or 350-550 in double headers. I also have a "boost" function on the controller - I turn this on when doing heavy duty running. Thanks, George.
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
haha thanks mate - ooh yeah, I would have liked to have seen one of those blow up! Yes that's right - about 200mA is reasonable for most locos! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@AntonyLvids4 жыл бұрын
If I remember right, the R900 was rated at a massive 2.25amps as it could handle accessories and 2? slave controllers (R902)
@highbrookendmodelrailway4 жыл бұрын
Not sure, but I know that it could have another controller plug into the side, so it could power two tracks? The ports on the side where you would plug in another controller measure 12v DC. What is a "slave controller" I have seen them on the likes of eBay and can't find any info on them. Anyway, the bloke who sold the controller to me said it was a beefy controller and was well worth buying another to make it a twin track controller. It does have a 15v AC output.
@rydermike334 жыл бұрын
Very interesting Sam. I suppose because they are used with 'starter' sets, that the cheap controllers came out really well in your tests. Excellent video as always.
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
Thanks very much Mike - absolutely, they seem super safe! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@noelleaver33974 жыл бұрын
That was a useful and interesting test. A common type of protection I'm not sure any of the tested controllers had is a resettable fuse. I think all the Gaugemaster hand-held controllers use these, and I've seen several other hand-helds with them. They will pass a the rated current indefinitely, above that they cut out but can take a long time, to cut out quickly they need about twice the rated current. The problem I found was that the max current was limited by the power supply and the controller setting about 1.5 amps (2.5 A at full throttle), but the fuse was 1.1 amps cut-off, so it would supply 1.5 A for 20-30 seconds. I've seen this damage locos 3 times, all the same loco design. Certain Dapol N locos used a tiny spring to transmit power from the tender to the loco (they have since changed the design to use a wire). If the loco derailed on a crossing you could get a tender wheel touching the other rail and shorting via the spring and the loco wheel. Because the spring is so thin 1.5 A made it red hot, your warning something was wrong was smoke coming from the loco as the spring melted and burnt plastic (the motor was not involved and was fine). They can be made a lot safer by replacing the 1.1A fuse by a lower rated one, I use 0.5 A for N Gauge (0.4 sometimes tripped on double headers). BTW, a common reason these controllers fail is that the fuse goes open circuit and you need to replace it, so a stock of spares is good (it is a soldered in component in the form of a small disk, available from RS and similar). Of of 6 broken controllers at the club 5 were fixed by replacing the fuse. Noel
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
Hi Noel - I do like the idea of a resettable fuse - provided people don't abuse them, I can't see why manufacturers don't fit them more often! That spring design sounds pretty silly too - demonstrates a lack of proper testing once again! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@FerroequinologistofColorado4 жыл бұрын
This is a video I’ve been waiting for. As always another great video. I love these experiment videos
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
Thank you - that's lovely to hear!! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@timbervalleyproductions Жыл бұрын
Awesome video, really informative, thank you. Would you please consider doing something similar again with the Gaugemaster Combi and other controllers such as the old HandM and the HM6000 etc?
@alantoms32634 жыл бұрын
Hi Sam, pity this hadn't have been 2 weeks ago!! I had of all things, a BEAUTIFUL Dapol Class 68 - you MUST get one they are SUPERB and extremely well built and nicely designed to work on!!! Using my HM2000, half power, it was pulling 13x Bachmann 104-tonne 'TEA tankers' at a guesstimated 60mph +/- scale speed. Each end has normal narrow NEM pocket mounted tension lock couplings - no problem, but in-between each tanker I've used Hunts couplings .... one was pulled out of the socket, leaving Brutus to slam into the back ... being UNATTENDED .... for perhaps 10 minutes. I arrived to that familiar for an old-timer like me burnt electronics smell - naughty words sprung to mind, and a LOT of them!! I switched off immediately. Checking for physical damage there was NONE - nice. The body on the outside, through the metal chassis as well as plastic body felt pretty hot - not good. I quickly removed the body - clip on / off, so EASY - great design Dapol. I tried on the track again, assuming the controller would have reset - NOTHING - ah well. I unscrewed the PCB, then saw a motor shim / brace was deformed with the heat, removed this, and another mount, lifted out the motor, desoldered it, assuming it's either / or - motor or PCB. I tested the motor - it's working!! Spooling up to max, the SOUND was nowhere near what I would normally expect and it sounded a little rough. I tested the chassis, thinking it must be the PCB - WRONG - lights are working perfectly, and no signs of burning anywhere. I remounted the motor after resoldering - locomotive moves off at a 'normal 'setting' but when turned up, it's obviously lost speed - it's the motor. £26.50 replacement plus ~£4.00 shim brace replacement received and installed - PERFECT AGAIN!! If you'd have posted this 2-3 weeks ago you could have saved me £30!! I say it's your fault! JOKING ASIDE, the Hunts couplings are a GREAT design, but a bit variable in dimensions, and perhaps the pockets may vary a little, but I think it's more the Hunts than the pockets ... so knowing they'll remain with the Hunts, the coupling are superglued in now - will NEVER (I know ...) happen again!! HappyDays.com as a colleague used to say. Al.
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
Ahh sorry to hear that Alan - send me the bill, lol! Yes those HM2000s can supply insane current it seems - if they were better designed, your 68 might have survived :( Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@alantoms32634 жыл бұрын
@@SamsTrains Thanks. All's good now, but £30 lighter.
@send2gl4 жыл бұрын
Fascinating experiment, makes you wonder then about displays in the old days. I recall Hamley's used to have a model train circuit running continuously round a large suspended circuit on one of the shop floors. I'm guessing they must have had a few derailments which went unnoticed and back then not sure of any short circuit protection.
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
Thanks a lot Geoff - I know - I wonder if they had any issues?!? Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@donsharpe57864 жыл бұрын
I have experience of 1950s equipment. When shorted there was a smell and bluish smoke appeared and stopped working. The Hornby Dublo ringfield motor was susceptible to burning out as well, whereas the Tri-ang XR 3 seemed to take a lot of punishment.
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
Uh oh - that doesn't sound good! I'm not surprised those older controllers took a lot of punishment! ;D Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@donsharpe57864 жыл бұрын
@@SamsTrains It was when the ringfield stalled that they ran the risk of burning out.
@nnrfanoldaccount4 жыл бұрын
0:07 That over enthusiastic and slightly suspicious science teacher....
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
haha I know right!! xD
@matthewforth85614 жыл бұрын
Non-isolated pointwork across a double track mainline or anything with multiple power feeds can cause it depending on how the pointwork is laid, or damaged point frogs can also do it. Just thought I'd mention as it's something that's far from immediately obvious. My poor HM 2000 had to deal with a fair amount of current multiple times before I finally tracked it down to the damaged point, luckily it's a solid unit and is still going strong now several years later. Edit: Also, judging by how long the power light on the HM 2000 remained illuminated before shutting off, I think mine reacts a bit faster than yours. Love the channel Sam, keep up the great content
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
Yes you're absolutely right Matthew - connecting two controllers together in that way can cause excess current flow/controller damage - very good point! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@carolinecleaveley Жыл бұрын
Have 3 bachmann controllers. The dcc one stops after about 3 hours running outside on o gauge. the other 2 are on oo and tt and only the tt one has malfunctioned with 2 triang a1a motors under a loco but now only goes one way. Will replace all now seeing your findings. Thanks Sam.
@shades3604 жыл бұрын
My 1930’s trix twin railway controllers have short circuit protection which seems to work well. Frequently tested with derailed trains. I use a 1950’s transformer which is rated at 3 amps , however if you shorted that it would probably dim the lights in a major city
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
Thanks for sharing - blimey, they even did things properly in the 30s!! :O Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@idrisdixon69984 жыл бұрын
Believe it or not, I've got a H&H transformer which feds controls for 1956, when I had my first train set, (Princess Elizaberth) and being 10 years old at the time use to connect the tarnsformer directly to the track to make her go faster, it also acted as a isolater by, you guest, placeing a tea spoon across the rails for an emergentcy stop! and I still got that transformer and Princess E. They knew how to make thing in them days...By-the-way congrate on joining Justin and his team at SMS Devon Sam...Keep on shuntting Idris
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
haha thanks Idris! Yes they were built to last in those days - I have a few old power supplies that can be shorted all day long without complaining... still, not good for locos, haha! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@andrewknights13044 жыл бұрын
As a point. The Meccano transformer, at least my old one, is an Auto Transformer. This means that one side of your track is connected to the mains supply. If you use a neon type power detector, you should find it will light up just as though you stuck into a mains socket! I can't think of an easy way to have a full mains belt from it, but the chance is there, they are not an isolating transformer, as all modern ones are....
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
Blimey, that's very interesting Andrew - I'll have to look into that, thank you! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@JBB279074 жыл бұрын
If dapol made a ho controller i bet it will explode
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
haha, no comment! xD Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@SussexHistory4 жыл бұрын
Hi Sam. I think I would buy a packet of three 6mm x 30mm 12V Car Glass Fuse Fuses 2A from eBay which costs £1.09 including P&P. Replacing a car fuse will be considerably cheaper than repairing that Gaugemaster controller! If you get a glass fuse, you can straightway see when it has burnt out. You can sometimes get a short caused by arcing across the commutator which will trigger an intermittent overload protector, but not a thermal cut-out.
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
That sounds great - I'll have to try that too! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@WickedFizz9994 жыл бұрын
Thanks for taking the sacrifice with these experiments so everyone else doesn't have to find out the hard way when there stuff blows up :)
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
haha no problem - this one was fun! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@assertivemayonaise4 жыл бұрын
You should test this through some track, as this would give a different resistance and a more realistic circumstance
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
It shouldn't make much difference - even with track in between, a short would cause a lot of current to flow - the resistance would still be incredibly low! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@assertivemayonaise4 жыл бұрын
@@SamsTrains fair enough, just a thought anyway
@Aaron.56_4 жыл бұрын
hi sam, recently purchased Hornby's newer tooling of class 43 HST power cars. I bought the GWR green set and they are the one of best runners I have on my layout! Some of them do have quite a hefty price but with the correct matching coaches, they look amazing. I can only recommend you try them out although if you don't because of the price tag, I understand fully XD
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
Great to hear they're great runners mate, thanks a lot for the suggestion! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@sacredband98124 жыл бұрын
Amazing video. Useful information. Good job it is not using mains. At 500 milliamps the heart goes in to fibrilation and you blow up. May i suggest that when using all metal screwdrivers that some rubber tubing is slid over the handle and most of the shaft for insulation. Only the tip should be showing. You can get shrouded screwdrivers. Your croc clips are also shrouded preventng short circuits. When in doubt insulate with non-electrical conducting material.
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
Thank you!! Yes that's true - but much higher voltage would be required to overcome the resistance of the human body! Yes that's true - but I don't use my screwdrivers around high voltage anyway! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@agriben75914 жыл бұрын
Hi Sam These stupid little horniby Contreras are a bit rubbish cuz if you accidentally crash the train it just cuts out and it dose get annoying Thx Ben :)
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
Yeah they are rubbish - being too sensitive is just as bad as not being sensitive enough! ;D Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@agriben75914 жыл бұрын
Sam'sTrains yeah
@tcm_tatra7 ай бұрын
Easier said , a short circuit occurs when there's a conductor between + and - , no matter it's a model railway , a plug , a battery or something else. On my controller (I think it's Hornby but no idea what model) it's cutting straight away when it's a short circuit as all the trains stops and I can hear a knocking from the plug's transformer. But depending on what it's shorting , I've seen motors smoking , or wires getting red-hot.
@TheAreotrain4 жыл бұрын
Blew up the inside of an old walk around DC throttle one time, wired the connection wrong and a capacitor exploded in it while it was in my hand. Have also seen some spectacular damage in the O-scale world in terms of electrical burn up with 18-24 volt systems (both AC and DC).
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
Blimey - that must have been a shock, in your hand! Crikey what happened with the O gauge?! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@TheAreotrain4 жыл бұрын
@@SamsTrains Thankfully the controller had a metal case, but my heart skipped a few beats. As for the O-scale I have seen transformers, wiring and engines start to burn up from the amperage. Mind you those breakers (if they have them....done some risky testing with vintage Lionel transformers) usually go at 5 amps so you have a pretty good current heating things up.
@PaulSmith-pl7fo4 жыл бұрын
Hi Sam. When I was 'nobbut a lad' I had a Triang trainset; the controller was a large, heavy, grey box with a slanting front with the red control knob. Also, there was a small red button that you needed to press to rest the controller if there was a short circuit (have controllers gone backwards - if you'll pardon the pun?). I think you rather short-changed the Mehano controller; on its performance, I would have awarded a gold certificate!
@Poliss954 жыл бұрын
The problem with that button is that it could be held down while there was a short circuit.
@PaulSmith-pl7fo4 жыл бұрын
@@Poliss95 Thank God for a supervising parent!
@Poliss954 жыл бұрын
@@PaulSmith-pl7fo My dad was out with his racing pigeons most of the time and my mother didn't have a clue about anything electrical.
@PaulSmith-pl7fo4 жыл бұрын
@@Poliss95 Ah well, there's a lost opportunity!
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
Yes that's right - the red button could easily be bodged so as not to work! And yes - I too love the Mehano controllers! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@mindbuilder87684 жыл бұрын
"what Happens when you break your controller?" It breaks.
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
haha!! ;D
@priscillawest64754 жыл бұрын
Lol
@Kmaster20074 жыл бұрын
Over here in the US (at least in O scale) the protection is a standard, dating back to the 20’s iirc when Lionel started making modern transformer systems. They too had relays
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
Absolutely - it's a shame that some of these didn't have such effective cut-outs! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@TomPrickVixen4 жыл бұрын
PIKO used bimetal in their Fz1 (1970's-1990's), (+ a red light) as a short circuit protection, triggered at about at 1.5 A, but do to its nature it variate to each controller + ageing was a factor too, but they still work (mostly).
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
Ahh very interesting - thanks for this Tom, I'd love to try one! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@TATICMOOR4 жыл бұрын
Yeah, that is a lot of amps going thru ones loco rolling stock and lit coaches etc. If you have a power socket strip (gang) of 4 to 6 (some will have more 8+ which I wouldn't use anyway) outlets plugged in to power your layout. It is advisable to buy a power gang with Anti-Surge Protection built into it for extra safety. Most layouts would have up to 2x Up and 2x Down lines with a possible branch line. Then you'll could also have a further plug powering your accessories, lights, moving vehicle's, windmills etc. A 6x socket Anti-Surge power gang from one wall power socket should be enough for any home layout. If you consult an electrician you could change the wall socket over, to a fused socket with red LED and use a Quick Blow fuse for safety. Another option is to have the power connected to or built in with a Power Trip Switch Circuit and a button power Rest. Though this would be overkill, unless you have a very large layout to run. Please take heed with Square Plug-In Adapters. These square adapters are dangerous to use and best to throw out and replace with a Socket Strip Gang as mentioned above.. I have be horrified to see a single wall socket with Square Adapter with 3x outlets plugged in and then a further adapter plugged into that. The thing is with this type of power practise to charge or power any amount of equipment generates a lot of heat. This is because the more items plugged in this way draws and requires more amps from the wall socket. This will eventually melt wires or plastics within the square plug unit to fail and then it can lead to a major fire starting. They can also become what is called Top Heavy. This means with all the items plugged into it, they add extra weight that over time weighs the square adapter unit down and away from the wall. Slowly over time pulling the three (two in other countries) pins for Live, Neutral and Earth away from connecting to the wall socket. Given a chance this can lead to sparking if its too loose between the pins and its counterpart within the wall socket. The smallest of sparks can and will catch fire on anything that is flammable near to it or the square adapter plug will just burst into flames anyway. I highly recommend binning these Square Adapters to the trash can if you see or ever use them, then replace with a proper protected gang strip. I am sure there is KZbin videos of this happening and showing the dangerous results.
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the comment John! But don't forget 5A on the 12v side will only be around 250mA on the mains side - that's obviously a tiny amount! You mean have the trip protection on the layout-side of the controller? Many thanks for all the info - appreciate it! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@TATICMOOR4 жыл бұрын
@@SamsTrains Know problem, but do ditch any square adapters if you have any and buy a gang strip.
@lukeslocomotives4 жыл бұрын
Another way to kill controllers: Run a Bachmann loco on a Hornby controller. A hornby one broke and threw 5532 off the track
@lukeslocomotives4 жыл бұрын
The controller at 0:22 is the one I had
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
haha really?! Which controller was that?! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@SprattyHeath4 жыл бұрын
@Dani Rijnsburger The HM2000 or the Gaugemaster Twin Track are probably your best bet. But just be careful not to short circuit them!
@TomMaddox8884 жыл бұрын
Absolute rubbish.
@pigeonliveryworks4 жыл бұрын
And that is train cross contamination
@CookieCookGames4 жыл бұрын
Yeah I’m not sure how the short circuit protection works on these, but one thing I do know is electricity always takes the path of least resistance so if let’s say your loco derails and a wheel creates a short between the tracks the motor will be fine as the current won’t pass through it, obviously a very different story if the valve gear jams tho the motor will burn out before the over current protection kicks in and that seems to be the case On most of those controllers by the looks of it. As and electrician myself I can tell you short circuit and overcurrent are very different fault conditions, the long and short of it tho as you said is never leave your train set unattended, also the mehano is the only one which protects against overcurrent by the looks of it
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
Yes that's absolutely right - the motors are only in danger if they're stalled with voltage applied - the lack of back EMF causes excess current to flow. Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@CW564 жыл бұрын
Tomorrow is the 20th anniversary of Thomas and the Magic Railroad. What are your thoughts on it Sam? I think it’s pretty good.
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
I must say I've never seen it - maybe I should! :O Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@lapiswake65834 жыл бұрын
I use one of those old Marshall II controllers for my 0 gauge. However, my 0 gauge is limited to 6 yards of simple track and a single dapol 08, so little to no risk of a short there. I have had issues of the R965 controllers cutting out randomly on some locos, like my bachmann 170, and I know for a fact the newer hornby controllers (silver as here, and the new black ones) are worse. My gaugemaster model D can't handle many locos under power at once, but I've not had any issues at all with it. My h&m duette is a great controller, despite the huge gap between off and the lowest speed setting if set to full wave low resistance. It gets warm when switched to high resistance for slow speed running, but it is built like a tank so can handle it.
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
Thanks for sharing - that's quite interesting about the R695 - I wonder what causes that?! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@extrapolator20004 жыл бұрын
The Gaugemaster and large Hornby controllers will only be equipped with internal thermally controlled protection. Basically to self-protect, but not to give any form of protection to anything outside the controller. The small Hornby controller appears to be equipped with a sense and trip function so it will protect not just itself, but also external devices. Essential for childrens train sets, where it is usually found to avoid damage to played with locos. I expect it has some type of short time retry pulse to check if the short is removed. Probably too fast for your meter to register. The trouble with fitting this to the Gaugemaster controller is simply that you run the risk of cutting out too early if someone simply has a power hungry loco and a large load. When starting from stationary, DC motors can sometimes pull quite a lot of current transiently. I guess Gaugemaster don't want the reputation of controllers that cut out too freely.
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
Yes that seems to be true, hence the delay in cut-out I suppose? Agreed - the Hornby train set controllers are spot on (if a bit frustrating) - can't see locos being damaged with that one! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@emergencyvehiclesfromaroun80034 жыл бұрын
In my head I’m picturing Sam’s house burning down btw. I love your vids, keep up the good work!
@emergencyvehiclesfromaroun80034 жыл бұрын
Sorry
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
haha it could easily happen, lol! ;D Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@JonatanGronoset4 жыл бұрын
Oi Sam, noce video on model safety. I did my own experiments a few weeks ago and my Märklin MS2 unit doesn't cut power until 7 seconds into the short circuit, quite nasty business I must say and a death sentence for decoders! In comparison the Roco Multimaus cuts out immediately. I'd like to see you do a review on the Märklin MS2 controller, they're quite pricey but support up to 16 functions, their own MM and MFX protocols as well as DCC. A very nice and intuitive controller, realy.
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
Thanks very much Jonatan - that sounds pretty interesting, 7 seconds does seem a long while! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@jaut-7624 күн бұрын
0.2A normal running current is a dream for me. I have some old Hornby Dublo 3-rail locomotives that can pull 1A under full load.
@vinny1423 жыл бұрын
1:18 "The full power of the controller" Only if it is already turned up to full power, which is a strange thing to do given that your loco will be whizzing around the track at 88mph. The question now is what did you test? A short is a direct connection between the poles, which means it happens outside your motor or your motor is so completely broken that it's not salvagable anyway. if there is a short and your loco stops, your first reaction is to turn of the power, not to turn it up forther as smoke begins to develop from unusual places. I'm far more interested in what protection the loco's have against things that can cause them to develop a short. It's also interesting to look at wether the wiring inside a loco can handle the max current put out by the worst-protected controller; does your loco actually take damage from a poorly-protected controller? It's probably even more interesting to see if there is a DIY gizmo that you can put in series with your controller to protect against overvoltage and over-current, like a circuit breaker in your house. Does the 6 amps even make it through the circuit to the wheels, is the contact of the loco's wheels on the rail enough to allow 6 amps to pass through? It would not be the first application where the test-case of a direct short is something that is allmost impossible to achieve in real life.
@ZLDSmogless3 жыл бұрын
Old Meccano type 3 controller when it short circuits: Red light turns on and electric buzzing sound. Until you turn it all the way down and back up You short circuit on 3-rail almost every derailment
@OlivierGabin4 жыл бұрын
Well, one solution is to add a 1 amp 12V (or lower) automotive glass fuse on the power circuit for enhanced protection. On DCC, you have dedidcated electronic circuit breakers, like the NCE EB-1. Anyway, I had already triggered a Gaugemaster Combi on a derailment, it works fine, and it is limitated to 1 amp.
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
Great idea Oliver - I might do just that! :O Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@MrKenichi224 жыл бұрын
Excellent Video Sam, it’s important to know how safe the controls are on a model railway.
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
Thanks mate, I agree! :D
@MrKenichi224 жыл бұрын
Sam'sTrains Me too :)
@ecpcharles4 жыл бұрын
The ez controller does have it, although its more of an overload protection. It will stop working(and take 10 min to let it cool and reset) if you run too large of a load(or short) for a long time to which it cant handle the current draw. It does like around a full minute before it kicks in though.
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
That's not what I found Charles - the Bachmann kept passing full current indefinitely! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@ecpcharles4 жыл бұрын
@@SamsTrains "Bachmann power packs have an internal 'circuit breaker' that trips on overload, then automatically resets a short time after the electrical overload is removed. Additionally, the power packs that come with starter sets are usually pretty marginal. They supply just enough power to run the set they are packaged with. After the breaker has tripped a few times, it will start tripping at lower and lower outputs." I agree that they aren't very effective, but I have opened two of these up before, and can confirm that there is a circuit breaker. However, its designed to trip with greater loads, such as 3 amps, not 0.8 amps. (after being tripped a few times, it should become more sensetive) Its a major design flaw with their controllers.
@fuccasound38974 жыл бұрын
i suspect that the controller that made the 'click' sound was a equipped with a 'thermal cut out' - a switch operated by a coil which warms as the current flowing through it rises, this heat is sufficient to bend, through thermal expansion, a bi-metallic strip which is the switch, or operates a switch. a better method is a circuit which measures the current flowing (like your ammeter does) and at a particular value operates a relay (or power transistor), that sort of set up can be designed to stay switched off until the fault is cleared. The thermal cut out type reset themselves when they cool down and current can flow again if the controller has not been switched off or the fault not cleared. It is surprising tho' that in 2020 any controller would not have decent overload protection. Your old Triang controller is very similar to one i first used in the 1970's and it was old then! We built a thermal protection device and put it in the wiring to the track. I have a suspicion that Triang thought the odd burnt out motor would be good for there sales of spares - motors were damn expensive and always required replacement carbon brushes and the commutator slots cleaned. Ah those were the days...
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
Yes you're right I think - that explains the delay! Agreed - a more sophisticated overload-sensing circuit would benefit controllers like this greatly - I assume that's what those modern Hornby sets use, to great effect! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@firestarspelt4 жыл бұрын
some of the higher power dcc boosters in the us are rated for 8 amps but they do take a fraction of a second to cut the power if it goes over that
@firestarspelt4 жыл бұрын
and if sam were to set one up on one side of his layout and have a short on the other side if he dont have feeder wires the resistance of the track would prevent it being able to even get to the 8 amp threshold
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
Yes the DCC controllers have much better protection, due to the much higher current they can supply! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@crewleaderprods4 жыл бұрын
I had a metal track joiner fall across the rails one time and couldn't figure out where the short was until I smelled plastic burning and found a glowing red joiner melting the plastic ties. This was when I still used a cheapo power pack that apparently didn't have short protection.
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
Blimey! That sounds dramatic - again, short circuit protection would have saved that dangerous situation! :O Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@brianmicky75964 жыл бұрын
Hi Sam, Thank you for the test , it does open your eyes ,as you say never leave the room , you don't know what you could come back to , All the Best Brian 🤗
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
No problem Brian, glad you liked it! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@TheSharkKing454 жыл бұрын
From what I know, the Bachmann EZ Command controller (DCC controller), has some form of short circuit protection, as the LED power light will rapidly flash, signifying that something occurred
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
Yes others have said that too - and an alarm sound too, if that's right?! ;D Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@sam-yo9gd4 жыл бұрын
I really like these experiments
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
Thank you! :D
@BeasBotBonanza4 жыл бұрын
Love this! Just when I thought you had finally made a reasonably safe experiment set up you nearly do yourself in with a resistor xD
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
haha I know right - I thought it would handle much higher loads than that! ;D Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@BeasBotBonanza4 жыл бұрын
@@SamsTrains for your next dangerous science video 'how much resistance does a human add to the track circuit' lol
@johnstedman40754 жыл бұрын
Nice test! I'm amazed that controllers are currently (sorry) available that do not have safety cutouts. I well remember that my first one in the mid 1960s had a prominent red button that would quickly pop up and kill the juice as soon as a short circuit occurred.
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
Thanks John - yes I agree - though none of the super high-current controllers failed to cut out, which is good to see (despite how long some of them took!). I do think manual resets are a good idea - odd that none of these had that! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@mordomarty4 жыл бұрын
LOVED THE BEGINNING SAM! can't seem to fail at making me laugh!!! Great video! Learned a lot!
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
haha thank you!! xD
@mordomarty4 жыл бұрын
Sam'sTrains you’re welcome!
@RobA5004 жыл бұрын
My Gaugemaster is near instantaneous, it is a newer model though. As you turn the power up the led changes colour the higher you go. It starts red and fades to yellow at full power, if a short circuit is detected it instantly goes red and cuts power to that circuit. The second circuit remains on unless that is shorted as well of course.
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
Ahh interesting - I wonder if they've changed that since mine was made then? Worth trying a newer one maybe! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@paulhorn26654 жыл бұрын
Well its a shame that even modern controllers have no short circuit protetction! I remember well my "Märklin Super" controller from 1949, which I had as a child. Weighed a ton with humming transformator. But it worked when a short circuit occured, while some train derailed or a loco began to smoke without hesitation. It was humming humming humming, then BANG and the control light went out not to come on again a few minutes later. It seems it was a good controller and transformator :-)
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
I agree Paul - I was surprised by this!! Thanks for sharing - that sounds crazy!! :O Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@retrocd79914 жыл бұрын
My hornby controller only 2 years old has an interesting defect where if you don't push down the black circle that controlls the amount of power going to the track. It gives the loco above full power. I've had to use a peice of wood effectively as a handbrake
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
haha that's pretty funny - I think I'd quite enjoy that!! ;D The potentiometer must be faulty, which is quite interesting! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@williamsakalaucks63354 жыл бұрын
The Bachmann controller is the same one shipped with their large scale sets, too. So it’s gonna have a higher output. The lack of circuit protection is still bad. I wonder if the gauge master and HM2000 were made for use in larger scales, thus a higher load peak.
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
Ahh really? That's pretty interesting then! Yeah maybe, the HM2000 does run O gauge gear with no problem! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@loganduckthomas1best6974 жыл бұрын
I've got a KATO controller. For being a small model company the only time I've short circuited it was when I was switching the direction of the train one too many times.
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
Ooh interesting - what happened when you did that?? Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@loganduckthomas1best6974 жыл бұрын
@@SamsTrains All that happen is it semi cut out. The Loco just sat there and buzzed for a bit. I looked inside the loco and it was fine, and the controller just needed to be left off over night then it was alright.
@John73John4 жыл бұрын
Sam: *has a small LED circuit almost burn down the house a few years ago* Also Sam: "I'm going to intentionally short circuit a number of controllers and see what happens!" I never shorted my model railroad, but I did snap a couple of 9-volt batteries onto each other when I was about 4 or 5 years old. "If I turn one the other way, both thingies snap together, so that must be what they're for" was my thinking. I put them down and got distracted by something outside, and my grandmother burned herself a little trying to pull them apart when she noticed. (I think they were the mostly dead batteries we'd changed in the smoke detectors, but apparently they still got quite hot!)
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
haha I know - not a good idea, but I was confident in doing it safely for demonstration purposes! Ahh yes - the 9V battery trick is a classic, but can very easily cause a melt-down! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@pigeonliveryworks4 жыл бұрын
Welcome to sams ways of destroying train controlers 1.cross contamination with a hornby with a bachman controler 2.put your screw driver on tracks while it has a current (Your controler is now screwed) 3. Abandonment of your model railway while running a train and getting some model railwaysmans heated steam water 5. Wash your controler with water and soap 6.use a car battery to charge your controler Thanks for reading! Remember ,:take your model railwaysmans broth *OR ELSE* *DONT TRY THIS AT HOME*
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
haha those are all very accurate actually, lol! ;D Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@liamcalder50634 жыл бұрын
Hi Sam. I love seeing experiments like this and i am glad to see that my controller which is the Hornby train Set one is good it got the sliver star!!!
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
Thanks Liam - glad to hear that, yes they are super safe! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@jamesdunloptrains4 жыл бұрын
Awesome video today Sam really interesting and I never leave my room when my locomotives are running
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
Thanks James - that's the safest way to be! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@Mewtwo5574 жыл бұрын
Results in a nutshell Hornby: very safe, but good luck trying to get the thing working after Bachmann: no protection, but doesn't send enough current to be dangerous unless something jams in a loco GaugeMaster: slow HM2K: fun to watch Mahano: best overall and works after Makano: *O L D*
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
haha fantastic summary there - spot on!! ;D Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@matic7134 жыл бұрын
17:15 The 0-4-0 army I love your "experiment videos". Conclusion: We should all use Mehano or Hornby starter set controller :)
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
haha thank you!! I know right - those are certainly the safest! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@ROKMAN14454 жыл бұрын
Some advice on the Bachmann controllers, newer ones (2005 and younger) have short circuit protection and it should kick in within a second or two (and beep rapidly for several seconds until the short is fixed). Ironic enough I've found them to be little demons - several have burned up and will continue to heat up when overworked. You need some toast while you're doing this experiment?
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
That's interesting - Underground Ernie came out in 2006, so surely this should have had that protection? Nothing like that happened! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@ROKMAN14454 жыл бұрын
@@SamsTrains I was just guessing, however considering how Bachmann is, they seem to cut corners and use older designs for more modern stuff. Chances are yours is an oddball (as if it already isn't) and most likely uses an older design. Most of mine are from the late 2000s and early 2010s, so maybe mine are a bit different.
@earthbaine98034 жыл бұрын
Well done sam great video love these types as new to model railway my self and like to know what's good and what's not keep up the good work look forward to the next one
That Mehano one is great, I’ll have to try to find one for my trains
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
For what they cost, they are very good! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@Cthulhu19704 жыл бұрын
Just to put people at their ease Sam, every so often you should say "It's okay, because I'm a professional!" :D
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
haha that's true actually, oops! ;D Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@nnrfanoldaccount4 жыл бұрын
''Professional''
@secondchancejunkyard79464 жыл бұрын
Here's some ideas for future videos. What happens when you put two of the same power packs on the same track? Old power pack VS new one. AC vs DC, maybe 2 rail vs 3 rail.
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
haha that'd be very interesting Christian - good one! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@WestRail642fan4 жыл бұрын
you should of tried the old hornby controller that used to come in sets (the one with the red knob)
@michaeldavies96004 жыл бұрын
Ive got one of those,it still works better than the new Hornby starter controller!
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
Yeah definitely - sadly I took mine apart, so I can't use it any more :( Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@railwaychannel667453 жыл бұрын
When ever my model trains derail, I’m always next to the controller to bring the train to a complete stop before It short circuits
@SamsTrains3 жыл бұрын
That's a good idea - thank for sharing! Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@railwaychannel667453 жыл бұрын
thank you when I first got Hornby I didn't know how to work it out
@BlackHeart374983 жыл бұрын
@@SamsTrains try putting a set of buffers between the two tenders and screws a divider too even out the slack between the tenders on the Frankenstein Schools Class Locomotive
@absflint31924 жыл бұрын
Thank you I've done that actually before
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
haha I'm not surprised! ;D Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@absflint31924 жыл бұрын
Thank you for responding yeah I've done that before
@absflint31924 жыл бұрын
With my Santa Express Hornby train
@sambrown64264 жыл бұрын
sam, once I was running an outdoor layout, and the controller caught fire! garden hose to the rescue!
@SamsTrains4 жыл бұрын
Oh blimey - that's not good!!! :O Thanks for watching - Sam :)
@Poliss954 жыл бұрын
You should never use water on an electrical fire.
@sambrown64264 жыл бұрын
@@Poliss95 we unplugged it first.
@highbrookendmodelrailway4 жыл бұрын
@@sambrown6426 The capacitors inside could still be charged. Best to throw sand or another smothering dry material on electrical fires. Or just leave it to burn out.
@sambrown64264 жыл бұрын
@@highbrookendmodelrailway the closest dry smothering material was in the neighbor's sandbox across the street while my hose was within 10 feet, and I didn't want to leave it burning because it was on a wooden deck, and that could've set my HOUSE on fire VERY fast if I hadn't done something.
@RichardKuivila19473 ай бұрын
What was the Controller Voltage output at 6.0A ? 12V or. 02 V ? ... unknown ...