What hides 3D Print Layer Lines Better, Resin or Resin with Baby Powder

Comparing the process of using UV Cure Resin VS and Resin with Baby Powder added to cover a 3D print to remove layer lines.
I also have a Etsy store with some 3D print files but mostly svg files for lasers.
If that's something you may be interested it check it out
daverigdesign.etsy.com
Previous video on using using resin and baby powder here: • Hide 3D print layer li...
Paint mixer: daverigdesign.etsy.com/ca/lis...
If you would like to support my videos or get early access before they go live on KZbin and files I'm able to share from my builds, check out my Patreon.
/ daverigdesign
Visit my amazon store for a list of products I've used in builds
amzn.to/3vvFOP2
Items used in this build:
Resin Used:
Amazon.com = amzn.to/46jWXsc
Amazon.ca = amzn.to/3PsTfFA
Paint used:
Blue:
Amazon.com = amzn.to/3RuUWoL
Amazon.ca = amzn.to/3rifNRB
Red:
Amazon.com = amzn.to/3RK7sRo
Amazon.ca = amzn.to/48OUBnc
White:
Amazon.com = amzn.to/45gPBER
Amazon.ca = amzn.to/3LHMHlB
Metallic Silver:
Amazon.com = amzn.to/3RngHa2
Amazon.ca = amzn.to/48pcbhm
AirBrush:
Amazon.com = amzn.to/3LDQmAQ
Amazon.ca = amzn.to/48xI5s8
UV lights:
Amazon.com = amzn.to/3PuNeIq
Amazon.ca = amzn.to/3PWIo8F
Motor for UV turntable
Amazon.com = amzn.to/3RuHTUk
Amazon.ca = amzn.to/3RyDGPm
Starbond CA glue:
Amazon.com = amzn.to/3EOI1X4
Amazon.ca = amzn.to/3PNMTCj
SandPaper: amzn.to/3uh4W9B
Popsicle sticks: amzn.to/32RjIZp
Clear Coat: amzn.to/3J0vW1h
Music by Epidemic sound: share.epidemicsound.com/kj1acc

[@christurner4799]

The progressively torn glove got me!

[@thedeterminedslaker]

I liked the stair test. The resin and powder are great for coverage and deep lines that need to be filled. The resin only might be good for high detail areas where some of the detail needs to come through.

[@DaveRigDesign]

just resin would be good if you have a flat surface, just make sure it's level and pour the resin on and it will self level to a flat area with minimal sanding needed

[@darthslagle5979]

This is a good video to explain some differences. I've been an autobody shop manager and tech for nearly 30 years. We've been working with acrylic resin, fiberglass resin, modern autobody filler, which is a polyester resin, and old school paddling lead. Lead was the body filler many years ago. So basically, adding the powder to the resin is just making it thicker. The same thing is done with autobody fillers. And you can add acetone to body filler to do the same thing, but it has to be a one part filler. Not 2 part. For adhesion, we have found that you actually get better adhesion by using the filler/acetone combo. What happens is the acetone actually softens the part, allowing the "slurry" to flow into the actual plastic. When the acetone evaporates, the filler is all that's left. To explain a little more in depth, acetone opens pores in the plastic. The slurry flows into the pores. The acetone evaporates, and the pores contract around the slurry. Because the acetone is what liquefied the filler and opened the pores in the plastic, when it evaporates, the pores close, and the filler dries at the same rate. The upside to the resin/powder combo is it's probably stronger. The upside to the filler/acetone combo is you don't need a UV light. We use both depending on the circumstances.

[@tony-mora]

That staircase example was genius to show what is happening. Great video!

[@DaveRigDesign]

Thanks, Glad you liked it!

[@ImmortalReaver]

I tried out the resin and baby powder after watching your video. It works great! I used it to fill in some seam lines. Since you gave me a tip, I'll give you one. If you want a more precise pour for the baby powder, just duct tape over some of the holes.

[@onestoptechnologies7305]

Could you just buy cornstarch in the can and use a spoon?

[@DaveRigDesign]

@onestoptechnologies7305 probably. Don’t think additives in the baby powder make a difference.

[@dekopuma]

I appreciate the return of the non-disposable glove.

[@DaveRigDesign]

It seemed like the only reasonable thing to do :)

[@Zonnashi]

Awesome video! I love learning about how certain processes and steps differ at various points. Both of these resin coats have some benefits or drawbacks depending on the situation you need it for.

[@ddegn]

Thank you for adjusting the music. Thanks for sharing your experience with us.

[@MrYabbie]

effective test. Thanks for showing us the process. I prefer the resin & powder finish.

[@jellocubez7]

Wow! Great work and thank you for sharing your finishing process!!

[@DaveRigDesign]

My pleasure!

[@kellyjean4981]

Thank you for the very detailed video. Much appreciated

[@deedsvp6990]

Great video, thank you. It would be great to see some destructive testing to see if one method or the other chips off more easily.

[@TheBrodalorian]

Wow, this one small change to my helmet finishing process to going to be so helpful! Glad I found this vid

[@VariablePenguin]

Very helpful. I've been putting off finishing a helmet but this has me inspired to tackle it soon.

[@jacobk8890]

Appreciate your humor, and helpful video!

[@DaveRigDesign]

Thanks for watching!

[@frothyground7075]

I always love that airbrush pron! Gets me every time.

[@DaveRigDesign]

Everything is better with a slow-motion sequence, Baywatch taught us that :)

[@Samtagri]

Interesting idea. Will save a lot of time sending in the future.

[@alexanderscholz8855]

Cool and how awesome you customize your Glove! Nice!!!!!!!!!

[@jcugnoni]

Hi. Corn starch tend to create a kind of gel. In epoxy, we frequently use fumed silica to achieve a thixotropic state (does not run). It could work as well with UV resin and it usually does not require a lot to work.

[@olafb.2929]

Very nice comparison. Thanks for sharing!

[@DaveRigDesign]

Thanks for watching!

[@j.m.johnson]

Thank you for the video! I’ve been using XTC 3D and haven’t been happy with it. I’m going to try your concoction.

[@rayr1426]

RC plane hobbyists for decades have used similar methods for sanding and smoothing while using epoxy/resins. Instead of Baby Powder, we used a product called Microballoons.

[@chepecarlo]

Gracias esta genial la explicación, lo usare en mi siguiente impresión

[@xfarsys]

Amazing video! very detailed!

[@DaveRigDesign]

Thanks, glad you liked it 🙏

[@elfranz]

I’m loving the curing station beat!

[@DaveRigDesign]

🤟

[@ObGoRat]

Good job on comparing the two methods! A few small gripes though: 1) when you first cured the resin+powder, you afterwards cured the resin only and resin+powder at the same time (so resin+powder got cured two times while resin only was cured one time) 2) please recommend to wetsand and use a mask while doing so as resin dust can be inhaled and quite toxic.

[@DaveRigDesign]

Ya I though about the curing and there wasn’t a easy way to avoid it. I tried to cure the one side a short amount at first to get the resin to set up, then for the 2nd side cure longer so both sides got a similar time in the chamber.

[@WyvernTyrant]

awesome, glad you did this!!

[@art-eroflore]

nice video, very informative, i especially liked the stairs. Ive only used 2 part resin so i may need to get some uv for a future project

[@DaveRigDesign]

I really like the uv for its drying time. No waiting for it to cure.

[@YohannAnni25]

Thank you for your video, the staging is superb and your steps have taught me a lot about proper use! I subscribe and I like ;)

[@Animal_House_Prints]

Your getting my sub just for saying “don’t forget to put on your gloves or everyone will remind you!” Love it

[@DaveRigDesign]

based on my last video I had no idea so many people that didn't know me were worried about my safety :)

[@62emare]

Great video! 👏

[@DaveRigDesign]

Thanks 🙏

[@HeBroTV]

NIce! Off to get baby powder

[@Baltojikale]

Thanks to your previous video I was able to fix, fill and smooth 3dprinted mask.... The process works as a charm.. i used potato starch and anycubic resin (aqua blue). The weight ratio was 2:1 (resin to starch). Used two uv sources (365 nm ~ 17w optical power and 395 nm uv led flashlight. In most cases illuminated about 2-10 sec per layer. Sanded only after building up all the layers. It took me about 2 hours to fully smooth the full face mask. Also used a small spatula attached to the drill to ensure good mixing of components.

[@DaveRigDesign]

Awesome!!!

[@Actio83]

Nice editing

[@DaveRigDesign]

Thanks 🙏

[@dannoakl]

The psychedelic magic mushroom rave cure scenes brought me here.

[@Reith1986]

Nice work! THX ^^

[@TBL_stevennelson]

Thank you 4 the music volume change

[@DeathxCap]

Oh dear! when you did the stairs my brain went back to high school and just thought "giggity". Got a project im working on for my defab course and might use this. Thank you for taking the time and filming it.

[@DaveRigDesign]

yes... when looking back at the footage of the stairs I thought this may get some comments :)

[@samernajia]

Clearly the resin and powder mixture is more viscous and less subject to capillary action effects, but this demo is great for looking at smoothing larger surfaces with limited rising (versus sinking) detail. Would love to see the effects of doing this with a model with a lot of surface detail (like a model of a starship or something like that with a lot of varying surface details).

[@Am-bf7hk]

I love the music the curing station makes me feel in a rave

[@DaveRigDesign]

Everyone said in the previous video is looked like a night club so I figured I’d give it the musics to match :)

[@wooly_thyme]

I haven't even gotten my printer in the mail yet and I already feel powerful! I don't have the space needed for a resin printer and I was wondering if I could get resin-like finishes with PLA. I already cast with UV resin on a small scale, so this is gonna be fun! Thank you!

[@ruerose1802]

I actually still saw some print lines on the top of the resin only side and quite noticeable ones near and on the detail area again on the resin only side. That coupled with how much more sanding was necessary to smooth out the surface, makes Resin and powder the winner hands down

[@ianbuchan8548]

This music goes hard.🤘

[@debrasam5525]

Great videos.

[@DaveRigDesign]

Thanks 🙏

[@marcelocastrob]

Encuentro que el acabado de resina+talco queda mejor, gracias por hacer la comparación!! Saludos

[@kwaad2]

It's really interesting to see the viscosity difference between the two. What I would really like to see, would be how that compares with using a two-part epoxy tabletop resin. I Make my own filament, to whatever color specification that I want, with sparkle effect. I typically just essentially dip my entire model, in tabletop resin. And then I hang it to let it cure. And amazingly, the layer lines vanish, the color becomes so much more vibrant, and any effect particulates in the base material, is absolutely amazing. But what I most curious about, is how a high viscosity resin, which has surface tension modifiers designed to self-level, and enhanced coverage. Versus a grade of resin that is designed to shed off of the parts, and designed to be as thin as possible.

[@PikachusGift]

do you think dipping the part and then spraying primer would work? I've been searching if people have dipped their prints in resin yet, as I've had the idea for some time now just haven't tried it. I know you use tabletop resin but I was thinking about using UV resin. Tabletop resin might be better though! something to think about and try one day :) thanks!

[@DaveRigDesign]

Issue with dipping a part is it won’t leave a uniform coat. It will be thicker at the bottom as the resin collects at the bottom of the print. Maybe this is fine or if the resin is thin enough it won’t be an issue.

[@PikachusGift]

@@DaveRigDesign that's true. I thought it might be an issue. Can you dilute resin and airbrush it on? or is it just more practical to be meticulous with a brush? lol

[@DaveRigDesign]

I’ve heard you can spray resin but it’s kinda dangerous and messy. I wouldn’t suggest trying unless you really research the proper way to do it

[@KCAwesomeness]

@@PikachusGiftI dip my parts using resin thinned with IPA, and then rotate the part in a homemade rig I have. It comes out pretty nice and even, then primer. There is an kinda infamous video a KZbinr did spraying resin, with no safety equipment either. It seems it works well but I would be really really careful with it. I’ve played with the idea before but I would use a sealed chamber with a UV light on the filter to polymerize the airborne resin to help reduce the health risk as it filters. Still wouldn’t recommend it though

[@skyknight6467]

Seems like they both have their place. the PR seems good for larger areas and in a more general use case. I think the thinner R might be good for much smaller areas. a toothpick or needle to apply it to thin lines to help smooth out the lines in the hard to reach areas. maybe even places you can't sand. just a light thin single coat just to take away some of the harshness of the layers in those thin lines.

[@aberodriguez4149]

Thanks for sharing

[@torymiddlebrooks]

This is getting added to the playbooks of so many cosplayers as the definitive comparison.

[@DemetriGxC]

I love how the blue glove hung on for dear life throughout the video. RIP blue glove

[@MMMMIIIITTTT]

Interesting! One tip: Sand before the application of the resin, and you'll end up with a much nicer finish. :)

[@Nico_Avellaneda]

The glove is back!

[@DaveRigDesign]

always need to wear gloves when working with Resin :)

[@AbuMaia01]

@@DaveRigDesignEven after you tear a huge hole in them rendering them useless? :)

[@prof.dexample6238]

Also I'd love to see a video where you do different ratios of resin to powder like 1:8, 1:4 and 1:2 powder to resin

[@DaveRigDesign]

Well the thickness depends on the use case and preference. There would be a limit to how much powder you can add but anything between that is fine

[@davetriesthis]

After the J&J lawsuits, Baby Powder is now just cornstarch, though often with some fragrances added. At target right now baby powder is $5 for 9 ounces. Corn starch at my grocery is $2.38 for 16 ounces. TLDR, buy corn starch not baby powder. Cheaper, no additives.

[@mystproductions4099]

3rd idea that popped into my head as you did this… resin with powdered filament (the same filament that you used to print the object with) I was thinking it might be similar to mica powder pigment that is used with epoxy

[@user-lx9jm1wo3h]

You can do adaptive layers too, so the top is not as steep of layer changes.

[@kaiwheeler64]

I might print in an M10 bolt hole in the underside to drill mount for a fast and even sand.

[@teytreet7358]

My experience with these is that, if youre not covering the entire piece, the edge where the resin stops and the plastic part meet doesnt have a smooth transition. There will be a small lip no matter how fine you sand due to the lack of adhesion of the resin to the part.

[@bojangles9115]

Lol I feel a bit called out in this video and for that you gained a subscriber lol. But yeah I kinda figured it was just a viscosity thing. Something I noticed is that the powder seems good for big surface areas and the plain resin seems better for smaller areas that you need more fine control on. So it might be a case for using both techniques during an application for different parts of what you're working on.

[@loquez1397]

I think you could also use gesso, it is used in art stores to prime canvases, and that would give it grip, you give it a pass, you sand it and you could paint it

[@yannsalmon2988]

Normally, logic dictates that you should use a thinner resin mix for each coat. So I’d advise a thick baby powder resin mix for the first coat, a second coat diluted with more resin and a final one with pure resin. I also wonder if there’s a way to take this process into account at the moment of printing : making the model details slightly more pronounced so that when the resin is applied the « smoothing » of those areas match better the expected final result, and/or on the contrary had a bit of « waste » material on the areas that will be more heavily sanded afterwards.

[@DaveRigDesign]

I found the thin was just hard to control. I feel it’s best for flat surfaces where you can apply it and let it self level. Then you could just apply 1 coat and be done. On anything else the thick is better and I think all you need is 3 coats. 1st does 80% of the work, 2nd the next 19% and the last coat is just to fill the little pin holes/bubbles or missed spots. Could use glazing putty for this step also instead. Printing with this in mind could work in limited cases. Like if you have seams or groves making them extra deep would mean they won’t get filled in as easy.

[@edsoncmsbh]

Great content! As a sugestion you sould try using Kaolin clay powder, you can find in extreme fine grit, and has better compatibility with resins, and other polymers. The final surface is great...

[@DaveRigDesign]

Thanks :) Never heard of Kaolin powder, I’ll have to check it out.

[@shaylahobbs5827]

I think both application processes could be useful depending on what you want to do with your 3D print.

[@ryanmacewen511]

Hi Dave. Is there a specific reason you used corn starch baby powder as opposed to talc? Curious. Very cool video!

[@DaveRigDesign]

That’s what was available. :) I don’t think you can get talc based powder here anymore due to the cancer concerns with talc.

[@rylanyoung2018]

I would like to see this attempted on objects with a lot of geometric features and right angles. Flat surfaces and corners, especially on a smaller objects. Like a box with a latch or a picatinny rail or hinges and mounts that need to fit together or need to fit other non printed objects with some degree of precision. Maybe even a set of slightly enlarged threaded bolts and nuts. The modular mounting system on thingiverse fulfills a lot of these suggestions. I'm curious how difficult the process would be and how much extra time it might take.

[@AbuMaia01]

At 15:20 there are still visible layer lines on the resin-only side. Could you airbrush resin to get it on more evenly? It may take more time and steps, since you're adding a tiny bit each time though.

[@Heratiki]

It’s good to note that resin can over cure and look worse because of it. So the baby powder and resin side is exposed to UV for 2 times as long reducing its initial luster. Also note that UV Curable resin will deteriorate when exposed to sunlight without sufficient post processing to seal them in.

[@cocoxcocoa]

Id like to see if adding even more powder reduces the amount of coats you need to apply. basically turning it into something like a thin paste.

[@StephanBuchin]

14:07 I love the fake slowmo 😎

[@DaveRigDesign]

Thanks. Everything is better with a slowmo montage :)

[@antcoley83]

you could still see the banding on the resin only side of the close up beauty shots

[@manningermani]

Would you mix powder into something like the xtc 3d?

[@ducks-with-hats]

Which filament was used for the hemisphere? The color is absolutely beautiful!

[@DaveRigDesign]

It was polymaker blue

[@LynetteBunBun]

i guess the powder would be a way to fill the lines but if you were to mold this and want to get a shiny finish you could do the last coat with only resin

[@motormusic1]

Great result, does the powder have to be cornstarch or will any baby powder work?

[@DaveRigDesign]

Any would work. Where I am baby powder is cornstarch based due to the cancer concerns with Talc. But talc is a more traditional thickening additive I’m told :)

[@shadowvapour9046]

Passed out 13 times but your resin and poweder resin is ready

[@oscargutierrez970]

I use the spot putty + acetone technique, the spot putty sands way more easy and helps save time in my opinion.

[@DaveRigDesign]

it's just the opposite approach, thinning a thick product instead of thickening a thin one. :)

[@oscargutierrez970]

@@DaveRigDesign even with spot putty without acetone I feel it’s much easier to sand since it’s softer , resin is much harder so takes more effort to sand , can even sand easily spot putty with a scuff pad cause it’s so easy to remove material. But your way is also cool never thought of adding baby powder to resin , I’m gonna have to try that !

[@claydumaw]

I prefer resin with fumed silica. An added advantage is increased tensile strength.

[@johndorian4078]

How does it look with colored resin and no paint/primer

[@elijahbrickey151]

If you want a stronger coverage try adding aluminum powder, it makes it tough but can be brittle, great for scratches

[@DaveRigDesign]

Cool tip, thanks.

[@MossNada]

Great video - really well explained and I'm about to try this out myself! However, as a resin noob, can I ask how long you hit it with the UV light? It's going to be on a helmet so I don't have a chamber - just a hand held lamp. Thanks :D

[@DaveRigDesign]

It kinda depends on the strength of your light and thickness of the coat of resin. I’m working on a something now needing hand held lighting and I’m doing 20 sec or so. If you put a little resin on some paper or tinfoil and shin your light in it you can see or harden and get a idea how long it takes

[@MossNada]

@@DaveRigDesign Thank you so much for replying - and also for the advice. I think have a failed helmet print somewhere I can try that out on. I thought it was going to be 15 minutes or something like that, so knowing it's probably going to be shorter is quite encouraging :D Keep up the good work!

[@imdeaded]

Most interesting. How about on miniature terrain? BTW the gloves hahahahaha.

[@DaveRigDesign]

Should work on Mimi terrain depending on the amount of detail on it.

[@eckos2310]

Do you happen to have a video on how you made the curing station with the black lights?

[@DaveRigDesign]

No but I have to make a bigger one so I may do a small video making that.

[@3dquicky611]

That's great! Now what would the process and results look like if you had used ABS?

[@DaveRigDesign]

Should be a similar process. ABS is a little easier to sand and you have the option to vapor smooth ABS also

[@omegaacestudios]

I’m interested in the can spray spinner drill bit! Can you 3D print that or did you buy it?

[@DaveRigDesign]

I designed it and cut it out on my laser out of wood. But it could be 3D printed also and glued together. Link is in the description the the files on my Etsy store

[@lukaslammens9318]

Nice video! I have a question for everyone working with resins. I want to use micro-extrusion to extrude some paste that exists of 80% metal powder and 20% resin to keep the powder togheter after curing. I can't use UV resin because the light will not cure the center enough (I think). Do you have any experience on resins that can do this on room temperature?

[@DaveRigDesign]

I've seem people make resin castings where they mixed iron powder into 2 part resin and then poured it into a mold.

[@VaultBoi101]

Have you tested something like self leveling resins? I would be curious to see how well that would work to get rid of layer lines

[@DaveRigDesign]

It should work great on a flat surface :)

[@Sabotage_Labs]

Could save some time tuning your printer and slowing down the jobs. Maybe check your MM per step for your extruder as well.

[@pennakira]

Thank you for the video, where did you get the lazy susan from? thank you

[@DaveRigDesign]

It’s nothing special. I bought it at either the dollar store or Walmart

[@pennakira]

thank you@@DaveRigDesign

[@martinrindomsoerensen8834]

Very nice test. Could this be useful for "failed" vase print that is not completely water tight, to make them water tigth

[@DaveRigDesign]

Yup. Coating either the inside or outside would make a print water tight.

[@whifflingtove]

For people without a UV curing chamber, is there a thin epoxy resin you'd recommend for this?

[@DaveRigDesign]

if you want to use a 2 part epoxy I like Ice Epoxy amzn.to/3v0XH8s but you could also just get a hand held UV light amzn.to/3v6hbII

[@Meglin1461]

Don't forget, the powder/resin combo side had twice the amount of curing time. A better test would be with two different models

[@lovetsky]

Couldn't you just prime a few times before painting, without the resin/powder resin coating?

[@yiannimigias4024]

What is that black glue you used on the little cup?

[@DaveRigDesign]

It’s just CA glue also known as crazy glue. The brand I’m using is Starbond but there are others. There is an Amazon link in the description also.

[@stinkyham9050]

The curing station looks like a mushroom went to a dance club.

[@neyperes5332]

Congrats for both videos! I'm thinking to add the technique to my printings. I haven't work with resin so far and the UV Cure time would be an issue for me problably. How long does it takes for the tests u made? Tks.

[@DaveRigDesign]

Curing takes a minute or so. It’s the best part of using us resin :)

[@neyperes5332]

Great! Wich brand do you recommend?

[@DaveRigDesign]

@@neyperes5332 any of the major brands should do. I normally use elegoo for printing so have that on hand.

[@reikyjimenez9097]

I used this method for my print and used my wife’s nail Uv lights and it was still tacky so I put it out in the sun, still tack an hour later. Could it be that I put too much cornstarch powder? Or too thick of layers

[@DaveRigDesign]

@reikyjimenez9097 you just need to wipe the print down with some isopropyl alcohol and it will remove the tackiness.

[@SlenderWolf109]

I don't 3d print, I'm just here for that sweet, sweet materials science

[@DaveRigDesign]

Any suggestions for future videos?

[@monsterpatch9074]

hmmm.. baby powder. but which type to use? corn starch as current baby powder is made from or talc, which is what it used to be made from?

[@DaveRigDesign]

here it seems they have switch to a cornstarch base due to the health concerns around talc I believe.

[@thrrax]

Good for large, uniform prints. But I wouldn't waste resin to hide PLA layers.

[@kyleruddock9100]

I lookin to get into 3dprinting is this like filling before painting? Whats the purpose of this

[@DaveRigDesign]

Yes, you would do this if you want to paint, especially a glossy finish. For a flat finish you don’t need to worry about being as smooth.

[@ChrisMowers]

just out of curiosity, im new to the resin post-processing scene, what is the ratio of baby powered to resin?

[@DaveRigDesign]

Really is just how thick you want it to be. Maybe 50/50 and adjust from there

[@ChrisMowers]

@@DaveRigDesign oh perfect, wasn't totally sure if there was a magic ratio or not. Definitely going to try this on my next print :)