I never use harsh chemicals. Now here is a harmful chemical I like to use.
@kdiggerbr4 жыл бұрын
That’s what money makes you do. This dude’s logic is all over the place. It is a cheap ad for 3D gloop which is worse than acetone.
@Crescnt-Mage4 жыл бұрын
@@kdiggerbr 3D Gloop does work as a great glue for PLA, so the binding factor is definitely worthwhile! I've never used it for smoothing, but I love the stuff for bonding parts.
@kdiggerbr4 жыл бұрын
Crescent Mage , that will be somewhat interesting if people readying the title were looking for bonding. Hummm it says smoothing... are you affiliated with this product in any form?
@miloenstad83664 жыл бұрын
The leprecon in the corner is telling me the stuff smells great
@marquez44973 жыл бұрын
Gloop shilling lol
@scifactorial58025 жыл бұрын
I like the logic! Put toxic chemicals in bottles with nice names on them and it makes them less dangerous!
@lazer10362 жыл бұрын
Yeah!
@Flamer9974 ай бұрын
Worked for nail varnish
@dougjohnson15175 жыл бұрын
My favorite method is just layers of fast-drying spray paint, which does some smoothing on its own, but mostly gives you a softer outer coating that sands down almost instantly compared to PLA. Then coat the whole thing with epoxy. In ANY case, you're sacrificing detail for smoothness whether you're melting into the model with this stuff or putting a coating on top.
@MakersMuse6 жыл бұрын
Though I wouldn't use it for smoothing, Tetrahydrofuran (THF) works incredibly well for bonding ABS or PLA (and PVC) parts together. it's about as toxic as acetone but a lot more volatile. In its normal state it can form explosive peroxides on exposure to air so be sure to buy the inhibited stuff ;)
@make.anything6 жыл бұрын
Sounds good.. another option I've got to try :)
@rolfv.s.28706 жыл бұрын
Maker's Muse we've got a NERD over here. No hate though angus i love the geneva drive
@kareempelumi6 жыл бұрын
Even inhibited THF, when exposed to air can form peroxides over longer periods of time. So I would only buy in small quantities and not store them around for too long. I've also been in a room where someone spilled a bunch of THF and believe me, its not fun, so its best to use THF outside if you don't have access to a fume hood.
@MakersMuse6 жыл бұрын
Agreed. A small plastic bottle like you use for model glue is perfect. The trouble is buying small enough quantities for hobby use!
@eamondelaney75526 жыл бұрын
Maker's Muse I think you should get 4 pallet+ and hook them up to the prusa i3 mk2
@_evildoer6 жыл бұрын
"I don't like using this stuff because of the fumes, so I used THIS stuff, which also has fumes"
@make.anything6 жыл бұрын
Hehe, apparently they're continued to change the formula to be more safe
@hyperhektor77336 жыл бұрын
some fumes smell nicer than others even when booth are poison xD For example bath cleaners, Citric-acid-based smell less anoying than Vinegar-based ones. Same goes with solvents. But tastes are different for each person.
@elmariachi51336 жыл бұрын
Yeah, no advantage vs. ABS smoothing I think.
@THOMASTHESAILOR5 жыл бұрын
We don't like to add materials like epoxy, but, we'll add goop n paint..
@otallono5 жыл бұрын
@@hyperhektor7733 vinegar is both healthy and more effective...
@GrowMau56 жыл бұрын
It’s a cool product & a great video. But bro, please don’t blow smoke up our butts about the hazards of MEK when this gloop contains Methylene Chloride, a compound listed by OSHA as potentially carcinogenic. Personally, I don’t have a problem working with either compound under a hood or with protection. But knocking other methods to “promote’’ this product kinda turned me off. Cheers & respect.
@make.anything6 жыл бұрын
For what it's worth the final product will not contain Methylene Chloride, I've been told **Edit: apparently it's cyclohexane they're taking out and the methylene chloride will be in small quantities.. so precautions should be taken!
@Nevir2026 жыл бұрын
Not only that, but he used Acetone for ABS smoothing, which is just as bad if not mildly worse than MEK. So acting like MEK is super dangerous is silly.
@DrJIMMI5 жыл бұрын
@@Nevir202 Your body produces Acetone. It's not bad in small doses but does pose a health hazard if breathing it in excessively as you can suffocate if you don't get enough oxygen.
@oorcinus5 жыл бұрын
MEK is fine, as is acetone. Acetone is produced by your own body, as a metabolic byproduct. MEK is used in nail polish removers in place of acetone, because it’s slightly less irrirating to some types of skin. MEK actually does *nothing* to most PLA copolymers. It’s used for dissolving polystyrene, not PLA. The only things that do dissolve PLA are chloroform and tetrahydrofuran, both highly carcinogenic and hard to come by.
@currenlydying5 жыл бұрын
honnestly it's harder to find smth that is not on the list of cancerogenic than smth that is on the list. Like, i mean there's magnetic fields and stuff like coconut oil foaming agents on the same tier of the list.
@AprilShermanWhitehead6 жыл бұрын
We got to meet the 3D Gloop creators at ERRF, and they are super-cool! Great to see how it works. They really know their stuff, and they're very nice and approachable in person. We tested a glued part made from two pieces of PLA that had been bonded with 3D Gloop, and it was incredibly strong.
@jaysprenkle10266 жыл бұрын
Currently I'm liking Polycrylic by Minwax for smoothing prints. The water based version is easy to clean, not toxic, and easily available. It also can be used to fuse laser printer toner to a printed part. It does not melt the plastic. It fills in the texture.
@nerys716 жыл бұрын
If you are up for it it would be interesting to see you print the same skull in the same filament put some effort into sanding it and then just hit it with the Rust-Oleum clear coat and compare the two
@r.a.88616 жыл бұрын
Sand it with what? Scotch Brite?
@liamcasey70786 жыл бұрын
@@r.a.8861 I hear sand paper is great for sanding
@loganjames046 жыл бұрын
sand it with what,Said dumb and dumber... 😂 I've done that with tons of my place prints and it works great, but the only thing you have to watch out for, is using to low grit sandpaper. From experience, I found that 200 grit does the trick. I've also used clear coats, but it works better just to hit it with a glossy spray paint in the same color as the plastic. I would just hit it with a few layers of paint or clear coat, and sand it after.
@srcoffeyjr5 жыл бұрын
So generally the higher the number (grit) the finer the paper will feel, also it maxes out at 1000. You can polish/sand items to get a natural gloss effect.
@snackpack855 жыл бұрын
Steve Coffey Jr sand paper doesn't max at 1,000. You can buy up to 2,000 at your local home center, and 5,000+ elsewhere.
@jasonspink19815 жыл бұрын
"I don't like adding material on top of material", then proceeds to add material on top of material 😂😂
@jasonspink19813 жыл бұрын
Not even the same. There are other options here, he just chose to do something he "didn't like doing". This is like saying I don't like riding city busses yet taking a buss while I have a car in my garage.
@WaleighWallace3 жыл бұрын
I think it’s because the epoxy essentially adds another layer to the outside of the print but this is more like acetone smoothing. Nothing is really added, just smoothed.
@abimanyuriska84753 жыл бұрын
I hate to wake up and now im still waking up
@cthulpiss6 жыл бұрын
soooooo.... adding additional layer of XTC-3D is bad, because it's additional layer, but layer of 3D Gloop is fine? Weird logic.
@TBonerism5 жыл бұрын
Based on what I understand with this having Methylene Chloride in it, it acts as a type of plastic melting solvent. Could be wrong, but that's what I think is going on. Plus, on the squirtle model you can see where his arms and torso meet, there is some green from where the 2 colors are melting together.
@dannnyqu5 жыл бұрын
@@TBonerism you are correct. that chemical is melting the plastic. similar in how acetone melts abs, but harsher of a chemical. i dont think his nitrol gloves he wore would really keep him safe
@roadstar4995 жыл бұрын
I think epoxy is just as good or better for art work like this...
@scrag28414 жыл бұрын
The epoxy adds a layer (which will be of varying thicknesses) to smooth the lines whereas the Goop attacks and melts the PLA to smooth the lines.
@DrunkAncestor4 жыл бұрын
@@scrag2841 So the idea is the Goop product does it's job and then evaporates completely? ie recycling is still possible (providing you don't then hit it with spray paint)
@veenix1018 ай бұрын
My process is tedious but works well... I sand it down going from 80 grid paper all the way up to 240. Then I use some plastic glue and a toothpick to fill in any gaps that are left between layers, just very gently rub the glue over the areas that need work. Sand again, fill in again as needed and then by the end you got a good smooth result ready for priming and painting. Takes a bit of time but this way you keep details where they are needed.
@igorfedik57306 жыл бұрын
Dichloromethane or methylene dichloride does the job. It is a common solvent for PLA and It is an active agent in these compositions. It is volatile and should work in a fume chamber just like acetone works with ABS. It is sometimes available in 3d printer consumables stores but in my place it is 10 times cheaper in lab supplies stores
@MrBernouilli6 жыл бұрын
You're right it is only the Dichloromethane that did the smoothing effect. And it is like using acetone with a brush on abs part. But I would'nt heat dichloromethane
@matthewg20076 жыл бұрын
It is also suspected to be carcinogenic
@Andreas-gh6is6 жыл бұрын
The safety sheet is just scary...
@igorfedik57306 жыл бұрын
Warning! Reading material safety sheets may cause acute anxiety disorder and lead to paranoid psychosis.
@LanceThumping6 жыл бұрын
Based on the MSDS, that's the main ingredient in 3D Gloop.
@efe_aydal4 жыл бұрын
For people who are wondering when the video actually starts, it doesn't.
@cartooncottage20244 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the warning.
@baran10804 жыл бұрын
Thanks for caring for us aydal aybi
@quietpillsdispensedondeman51893 жыл бұрын
Youre a hater and human trash dude...pathetic. Yes the video does start and he covers many methods...
@Klajnepojken3 жыл бұрын
@@quietpillsdispensedondeman5189 take a seat
@oida68023 жыл бұрын
Faşik 3D'cidir itibar etmeyiniz.
@RumbleLab6 жыл бұрын
Seeing the prints transformed into the smoother end result is weirdly satisfying! Great options to keep in mind for future prints.
@Ulexcool6 жыл бұрын
You need to watch some "how to apply thin layers of paint" tutorial.
@ctpctp6 жыл бұрын
2:10 - "another thing about that is you're adding a material on top of the printed part..." 4:27 - starts adding a material on top of the printed part.
@KevinWeberYo4 жыл бұрын
I thought about that too, but I believe the epoxy sits on top as a shell, and the other stuff soaks in/evaporates
@MauiRedMan5 жыл бұрын
If you use the cura slicer look in their experimental area they have an ironing setting that has made my prints super smooth
@hawkbird62944 жыл бұрын
thats only for top surfaces hah
@museonfilm89195 жыл бұрын
Here in the UK there is a product called 'Greygate Plastic Polish' - apparently used by the RAF to polish aircraft canopies (plexiglass). This stuff is liquid, and has an extremely fine grit, and is non-toxic. You dab it on, let it dry, then buff it. For prints with large surfaces it would be great, but maybe not something complex, as getting into those crevices may be an issue.
@Neltheraku6 жыл бұрын
the last minute of the video is the best part... just darkness and silence xD
@brig86836 жыл бұрын
Interesting, more interested in seeing the spray version,
@jakelabovitz96466 жыл бұрын
Wow that skull looks amazing!
@ThalisUmobi6 жыл бұрын
Yeah! Really efing good!
@KurtisJoseph2 жыл бұрын
To HECK with sanding for hours. I mean this is so DOPE! San, cover, sand, cover, sand, cover x 100,000 days are DONE! These guys are the BEST! This will cost a bit but be so awesome for my armor.
@ashkanaliyar62474 жыл бұрын
That Cat Skull is super stunning ! what a masterpiece .❤😍💎
@dekutree646 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the video! I might give this stuff a try. I've been using the XTC epoxy, which works great on a fresh printed surface, but anywhere that's been chiseled or sanded or scraped e.g. (removing support material, strings, nibs, etc.), the surface tension of the epoxy interacts with the imperfect plastic surface to create little nibs everywhere, so then I have to sand the epoxy as well. Still marginally more efficient than sanding the bare PLA surface smooth without any coating, but certainly not as good as I was hoping for.
@mrnickbig14 жыл бұрын
PLA is easy to smooth with spray degreaser, such as Aerosolve. Just lightly spray it, and let it dry for a few hours.
@jpjay15846 жыл бұрын
dude!!!! you say you put too much on the first one, then you FLOOOD the cat-scull! omg
@sharkattack20095 жыл бұрын
I use it mostly for a better way of gluing my pla prints together. Works really well for that. Not so much for big surface areas though as it tends to dry pretty quick.
@chesterjones95655 жыл бұрын
I can still see some of the layer lines, but now they're more "shiny"
@KarimAkors4 жыл бұрын
I use the heat blower from my smd soldering station to heat up spot by spot, dipping my finger in water and smooth the Pla, that works really good , after that you see next to zero any kind of layers. i printed a 35cm high alien xenomorph figure and after the smoothing i clear cote it with a few layers...even from close range it looks like made from dark shiny stone
@make.anything4 жыл бұрын
Interesting strategy! Does it leave behind fingerprints?
@KarimAkors4 жыл бұрын
@@make.anything no it gives a shiny surface, try it out on some part with layers visibly heat up a spot (not the entire print) to the point when the surface gets glossy from the heat than wet your thumb slide lightly across it, it works wounders on black pla looks like glas surface made from dark ceramic
@der-andyman6 жыл бұрын
First, he says that he does not want to add layers, regarding the epoxy, but isn't this adding even more layers?
@ArcanePath3606 жыл бұрын
I believe it melts the stuff slightly like how solvent eats into plastic, which is why it's brushed into it, so the effect isn't as bad as adding a coat of epoxy, which is used more as a filler but would be more difficult to thin out. Epoxy would be like adding another wall to your print. This stuff chemically reacts with the existing wall.
@chrisdonovan95186 жыл бұрын
since its an adhesive yes your just adding it in the gaps and slightly filling in the small layers... its fast acting so its gets gummy and begins to dry quickly but by definition this would be more like filling rather than smoothing
@MaethorDerien4 жыл бұрын
This stuff actually melts the plastic and is just as bad as the stuff people normally use to smooth pla. Pretty much the only real reason to use this is when you want to show of the colors of the filament itself like the black glitter filament used for the cat skull. On something that is a flat color your better off doing the filler primer, paint then spray poly/vanish or epoxy methods. Done properly you can actually get insanely good looking results. The big difference is that while I think the paint or epoxy method looks the best it also is the most most time consuming and requires a lot more work. The melt smoothing methods are much less time consuming.
@chrishechtl83305 жыл бұрын
If you check out some of the other 3D pen videos you'll note that they use a hot knife to burnish and melt the outside layers to make it smooth and in some cases shiny.
@rmp5s2 жыл бұрын
The cat skull came out pretty damn nice!
@piyerus11534 жыл бұрын
I know this comment is a bit late and unlikely to be read (thanks KZbin for always recommending older videos), but I think it would have been more helpful when doing the tests on models to do a sort of 2-face thing, where you apply the product to one side of the model but not the other. That would give us a really clear look at what effect the smoothing has, since we'd be able to compare side to side. Love the videos, thanks so much for providing all this info.
@make.anything4 жыл бұрын
Good idea, I'll try to remember that if I do anything similar in the future :)
@BLACKSYNTH6 жыл бұрын
I would cut out the gloopy stuff and just use a Nitrocellulose spray laqure. I find it works best and is easily buffed to a mirror polish.
@chrinamint4 жыл бұрын
Wow...that's awesome! Great video!
@Dragnmastralex3 жыл бұрын
I would have liked to see how it works with small details like a small model with a detailed face.
@3DSage6 жыл бұрын
I just posted a video to smooth PLA with spray Polyurethane! Very easy and I didn't even sand the model. Check it out too!
@federicomunoz21343 жыл бұрын
I will try this method for sure!
@TheBetterGame6 жыл бұрын
Definitely interested in that spray.
@robertorosales20224 жыл бұрын
So unbelievable, thanks for the info.
@mr.chisels7295 жыл бұрын
Interesting product. great vid. I think you'll have even better results if you don't use their brush. I would say a finer bristle would give you a better spread of the product. will definitely try it.
@DisgruntledPigumon6 жыл бұрын
Cool stuff, it’s like using model glue on model kits to melt down the seam lines. On an important side note, you should never turn your spray can upside down when spraying, that’s how you clear the nozzle as paint stops coming out and only the propellant comes out. It’s better to lift the object and spray from below if you need to. Also, don’t shake the can, do long, straight, overlapping coats, spraying past the object and back onto it. If you shook well at the beginning, you won’t need to shake it for the length of a normal spray. Another tip is warm up the can for a few minutes, it mixes better that way. :)
@rpocc Жыл бұрын
Basically this 3D Gloop is the same dichlormethane aka DCM: a dissolvent for some plastics including PLA and PETG.
@vgiron49794 жыл бұрын
easy application and very clean work. thanks bro.
@KurtisJoseph2 жыл бұрын
OMG! I subbed for this video ALONE! Thanks!
@chaos.corner5 жыл бұрын
I have something called Weld-on 4 acrylic adhesive for when I cut acrylic with my laser cutter that contains some of the same stuff. I'll have to give it a try. Looks like it's about 1/3 of the price too.
@e_palpatine5 жыл бұрын
I’m putting on as thin of a coat as i can...thinner than on the previous model... *proceeds to glob on thick layers of goop*
@justinlipkin6 жыл бұрын
Anyone else notices the last 30 secs of darkness? Oh well! Great vid :D
@error404civicnotfound6 жыл бұрын
Jon Smith yes i did......
@make.anything6 жыл бұрын
Ah sorry, I'm traveling through Sweden so I was a bit rushed! At least it's at the very end 😅
@justinlipkin6 жыл бұрын
Well, you did amazing work, for editing the video while traveling!
@LordCoquitos6 жыл бұрын
It was a smoothed out video sample :D
@among-us-999996 жыл бұрын
Make Anything everything for the 10 minutes. But it didn’t work No extra money for awesome vids 😔
@Philafxs6 жыл бұрын
Might as well go with standard (and cheap) methelyne chloride, if you're going for something that contains that and other health hazardous elements anyways.
@KylejvT Жыл бұрын
It is possible to smooth PLA with acetone though you do need to heat it up a lot more then normal as your using the acetone as a thermal conveyor. Here is my setup: acetone, 1.5 liter glass beker, a heated magnetic stirrer, a stir-bar, long wire hook for the model and PPE mask (plus ventilation if possible). I fill the beker a with about 2cm's of acetone I then add the stir bar and turn on the heat till it gets to a low boil, at this time you should watch the sides of the glass beker for the condensation line that will move up the beker till it gets to the edge now your ready. Attach your model to the wire hook and dip it below that line, you will see the model "wet" itself. Hold it there for 5 seconds then remove, repeat if necessary. I never have to do more then 15 seconds total for a glassy smooth surface. Place the model somewhere to dry afterwards.
@markiemew6 жыл бұрын
I am definitely going to buy this.. it seems to have a pretty reasonable price but oh, the shipping! $16 for an ounce is steep, but I will definitely back it next time I get paid.
@code4chaosmobile6 жыл бұрын
Great stuff I'm saving up for my first 3D printer and I got to say you're making the wait very hard
@vasilisanthis9806 жыл бұрын
Dude the videos are amazing. They're the perfect length and very interesting. Keep it up!
@migliaracer12 жыл бұрын
So what is the syringe for?
@MyRCChannel-CJScott3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for reviewing this product. I would be interested to know if there is an improvement in strength... when my prints fail, it's usually along the print lines. Since the Gloop seems to melt or fuse the layers, at least at the surface, I'd like to know if it reduces separation along the print lines. BTW, I just ordered a 4ox bottle. Thanks for the links... I hope you're an affiliate.
@MrLuumpy2 жыл бұрын
More heat.
@VLena_art5 жыл бұрын
You can better sand, spray sprayspakle, sand, and then spray paint... perfect smooth.👍
@johnbillings52603 жыл бұрын
If you go over your print with a lighter at a decent pace it will smooth layers. You could probably do a vapor chamber with the Gloop to cut down waste and do an even coat.
@TryptychUK6 жыл бұрын
The product looks pretty good, but I wouldn't use the brush provided. They are usually crap quality, too coarse and way too small. (I could see the brush marks.) Get a decent 1/2" or 1" paintbrush and pour the liquid into a larger jar. It's obvious that stuff has an effect pretty fast so being able to apply it more quickly has to be a help too.
@Inventorsquare6 жыл бұрын
I think it's possible to get near that level of shine without the extra glaze. You should try multiple grits of sandpaper and a loose cotton buffing wheel mounted onto a low-torque drill. The dense felt wheels will ruin it. A heat gun or hair dyer might help a lot if only using a paper towel.
@TealDobber6 жыл бұрын
If you have a communication channel open with these folks you should tell them to ship to Canada. If totally back this, if they would. I also checked their site, but they only seem to sell this product paired with abs gloop. I have no use for the abs gloup. Thanks for the video, love your channel!
@ZUPRA90504 жыл бұрын
Start with sand paper grit 120, 240, and proceed with wet sanding grit 600-1000. If your print have deformations you want to hide, apply wood putty and let it dry before sanding. Dont use "Gloop"
@upthepubs6 жыл бұрын
I use SciGrip3 for my PLA prints for welding the plastics together and for smoothing. It works amazing and and fast, also depending on applicator methods you don’t end up with brush lines from a coarse bristles like this product
@andresrios11634 жыл бұрын
How is low-poly Squirtle printed in 4 different colors?
@IllusionSector5 жыл бұрын
4:45 _Here's the model after just one thin coat, and as you can see..._ No, I can't. *FOCUS!*
@GaryMcKinnonUFO4 жыл бұрын
Thanks pal, always helpful and interesting.
@michaeldougherty60366 жыл бұрын
Seems better for organic designs, where the goopiness works well with the original design. That low-poly Squirttle looked terrible afterwards, and would have been better of with simple sanding to keep the clean edges.
@make.anything6 жыл бұрын
I would agree
@sddreamcrystal6 жыл бұрын
I'd be interested in seeing the spray on version of this stuff. PLA is what out library uses and trying to find ways of smoothing it out is a pain in the tail especially with prints that have organic shapes and parts.
@geofmilterson25035 жыл бұрын
Methylene chloride aka dichloromethane was just outlawed by the EPA
@JordanSC3 жыл бұрын
Nice video, thank you for making that.
@moodberry5 жыл бұрын
A suggestion for the makers of GLOOP...#1: Use a fine hair brush for the applicator. #2: If you want to really sell this, then make it a spray. Using a brush picks up bits of dissolved PLA when you use it and puts it into the brush, which then smears this PLA/GLOOP adulterated mixture on teh rest of the print. The only way to avoid it is to make it a spray-on.
@companyoflosers6 жыл бұрын
i mean yeah, while you get rid of layer lines, you add brush stroke lines. maybe will be better when they have a spray method for more even application.
@menteausenteprops6 жыл бұрын
Sorry for the long comment, it's worth it I promise: I have been working with resins for many years, Polyurethane, polyester and epoxi for different applications, but something was odd, every single Polyester resin I bought, it didn't matter how much hardener I used or the conditions, it never fully hardened, it always stayed kinda soft and jammed ALL my sandpapers, from hardware stores, paint shops, online distributors, always the same except for 1, the ONE that is sold by FormX Spain for some reaso it always works, very very hard and easy to sand, cures fast, with low or high hardener, and I discovered recently that it sticks to PLA and PETG prints perfectly so that's what I use for smooothing prints. It's 11€ for 1 KG of resin hardener included and it lasts for ages, hope it helps
@make.anything6 жыл бұрын
Interesting, that's for the tip :)
@raghavgarg69096 жыл бұрын
Finally!!! Now I can smooth PLA prints.
@Gurhel6 жыл бұрын
Good video, I have only been printing for a couple months, I usually sculpt things, may I suggest instead of using the brush that comes in the bottle go buy a fine brush from your local craft store and scrape off excess from brush before application, should help with the clumping, I do the same thing with a brush on lacquer I use to complete my prints. I find bushing on my flea cat works better the spraying.. more control. But other wise very informative video may have to order some int eh new year and give it a go
@momobun.5 жыл бұрын
Wanted to get the 3D Gloop but shipping is the same price as the bottle! :/ Oh well... maybe it'll be on amazon one day.
@JMYBASS5 жыл бұрын
Man, that 3D printed part is SO COOL!
@KiR_3d6 жыл бұрын
Hi! Did you've tried some glossy finish for wood or maybe metal? I see that the main feature of this "3d Gloop" is that it fills caves between layers and make a film over it. Still at some angles you can see layers but yes, - the result is impressive anyway.
@KiR_3d5 жыл бұрын
OK, don't answer )) Feels like Devin gets too much of comments so he can't check and answer on everything.
@IgnoreMyChan6 жыл бұрын
Doesn't this also screw up the tolerances? It's still adding material, isn't it?
@wilson.54206 жыл бұрын
IgnoreMyChan I think it slowly softens the plastic when in contact then it eventually evaporates
@IgnoreMyChan6 жыл бұрын
That might still mess with your tolerances, right? :)
@henrycharles24896 жыл бұрын
I would think it does
@funkbuqet-also6 жыл бұрын
I have used methylene chloride to smooth some prints and it will soften hard edges and fine details.
@sergetheijspartner20053 жыл бұрын
I bought it because it was said to glue PLA parts, but it didn't glue the parts aswell as I'd hoped, also did not try because that stuff is toxic and i live in a small appartment with a kid and a small dog, so I do not want to endanger them. I never tried to smooth PLA with it so ths is definitely interesting to try, come to think of it I have a golumn printed with Vertigo Galaxy
@donovangilbert71806 жыл бұрын
That's pretty crazy! the skull doesn't even look like a 3D printed object
@BINX-RR3 жыл бұрын
I’ve seen videos of people using 3d printing resin to smooth their prints, and since it’s just resin you can wait till you want to cure it and won’t have any “gummy” stuff going on
@PacificNWRailfan6 жыл бұрын
I just use Automotive scratch filler primer and sand lightly with 600 grit sandpaper.
@nonegone71704 жыл бұрын
"Let's apply a thin coat" Start globbering it on there like he's got gallons of the stuff. Good thing you didn't go into the painting business...
@mikegLXIVMM3 жыл бұрын
PLA prints: Sand, then rub some Ethyl Acetate onto it with a lint free cloth. Print will be a dull and line free. Buff or spray with a clear spray cote.
@Achw3l6 жыл бұрын
Bipolar shirt?
@SeanLumly6 жыл бұрын
It's a nude.. Artistic, of course..
@hyperhektor77336 жыл бұрын
if it has a low viscosity you should try the ultrasonic-method (the vaporiser chamber)
@KieranMeadows5 жыл бұрын
Thank you for the time and advice buddy, love the channel. Best of luck to you
@Hawk19666 жыл бұрын
To be honest I didn't really like the results. The skull looked great in the material you used but the Gloop seemed to just dull all the sharp, crisp lines.
@printit12626 жыл бұрын
You should really make an episode showing its Bed Adhesion and gluing facilities.
@akiyaburst57825 жыл бұрын
3 words mate: Double. Sided. Tape
@petarromani17716 жыл бұрын
Is anybody gonna ask why does your gf want a cat skull ...
@bringamosa84806 жыл бұрын
i bet it is a scanned version of a skull of a loved cat that passed away.
@michaels30036 жыл бұрын
Bringamosa , cat did not want to undergo a scan while still alive?
@shallabim9126 жыл бұрын
Petar Romani Skulls are cool, cats are cool.
@bryanrandom63826 жыл бұрын
Petar Romani ikr
@serentique6 жыл бұрын
Bird and cat skulls are my aesthetic.
@brandielee79715 жыл бұрын
This convinces me to switch back to pla actually. That filament was cool!
@error404civicnotfound6 жыл бұрын
Just got my first printer JGAURORA A5 so Happy
@highrise9559 Жыл бұрын
"Here we have a model of a cat skull that I printed out for my girlfriend." I think it is safe to say those words have never been spoken before in the history of the human race. 😁
@spookyseafood76826 жыл бұрын
Another issue about apoxie smoothing yes apoxie the glue is that you still see the layer lines and some places will be thicker that others
@ilco314 жыл бұрын
kinda wish there are places in nl that sell this stuf . i need this pla gloop
@gustavotobon70422 жыл бұрын
Great video, can you tell me how to prevent resin from sticking to 3d printed pla molds? Thank you.
@Nerdule6 жыл бұрын
Considering that literally the only thing the gloop is doing to smooth the part is that it contains the same "harsh, chemical solvents" you were so scared of, is there any reason whatsoever to use this stuff for PLA smoothing when I can just buy the solvents for much cheaper?
@evgiz0r6 жыл бұрын
cura fuzzy skin is also great for a nice looking print
@ChiliFrog6 жыл бұрын
they should change the brush for a smaller one with thinner bristles, like the one included in krazy glue bottles