PLA Smoothing 3D Prints with 3D Gloop!

[@MakersMuse]

Though I wouldn't use it for smoothing, Tetrahydrofuran (THF) works incredibly well for bonding ABS or PLA (and PVC) parts together. it's about as toxic as acetone but a lot more volatile. In its normal state it can form explosive peroxides on exposure to air so be sure to buy the inhibited stuff ;)

[@make.anything]

Sounds good.. another option I've got to try :)

[@rolfv.s.2870]

Maker's Muse we've got a NERD over here. No hate though angus i love the geneva drive

[@kareempelumi]

Even inhibited THF, when exposed to air can form peroxides over longer periods of time. So I would only buy in small quantities and not store them around for too long. I've also been in a room where someone spilled a bunch of THF and believe me, its not fun, so its best to use THF outside if you don't have access to a fume hood.

[@MakersMuse]

Agreed. A small plastic bottle like you use for model glue is perfect. The trouble is buying small enough quantities for hobby use!

[@eamondelaney7552]

Maker's Muse I think you should get 4 pallet+ and hook them up to the prusa i3 mk2

[@huggysocks]

I never use harsh chemicals. Now here is a harmful chemical I like to use.

[@kdiggerbr]

That’s what money makes you do. This dude’s logic is all over the place. It is a cheap ad for 3D gloop which is worse than acetone.

[@Crescnt-Mage]

@@kdiggerbr 3D Gloop does work as a great glue for PLA, so the binding factor is definitely worthwhile! I've never used it for smoothing, but I love the stuff for bonding parts.

[@kdiggerbr]

Crescent Mage , that will be somewhat interesting if people readying the title were looking for bonding. Hummm it says smoothing... are you affiliated with this product in any form?

[@miloenstad8366]

The leprecon in the corner is telling me the stuff smells great

[@marquez4497]

Gloop shilling lol

[@scifactorial5802]

I like the logic! Put toxic chemicals in bottles with nice names on them and it makes them less dangerous!

[@lazer1036]

Yeah!

[@Flamer997]

Worked for nail varnish

[@dougjohnson1517]

My favorite method is just layers of fast-drying spray paint, which does some smoothing on its own, but mostly gives you a softer outer coating that sands down almost instantly compared to PLA. Then coat the whole thing with epoxy. In ANY case, you're sacrificing detail for smoothness whether you're melting into the model with this stuff or putting a coating on top.

[@_evildoer]

"I don't like using this stuff because of the fumes, so I used THIS stuff, which also has fumes"

[@make.anything]

Hehe, apparently they're continued to change the formula to be more safe

[@hyperhektor7733]

some fumes smell nicer than others even when booth are poison xD For example bath cleaners, Citric-acid-based smell less anoying than Vinegar-based ones. Same goes with solvents. But tastes are different for each person.

[@elmariachi5133]

Yeah, no advantage vs. ABS smoothing I think.

[@THOMASTHESAILOR]

We don't like to add materials like epoxy, but, we'll add goop n paint..

[@otallono]

@@hyperhektor7733 vinegar is both healthy and more effective...

[@AprilShermanWhitehead]

We got to meet the 3D Gloop creators at ERRF, and they are super-cool! Great to see how it works. They really know their stuff, and they're very nice and approachable in person. We tested a glued part made from two pieces of PLA that had been bonded with 3D Gloop, and it was incredibly strong.

[@jasonspink1981]

"I don't like adding material on top of material", then proceeds to add material on top of material 😂😂

[@jasonspink1981]

Not even the same. There are other options here, he just chose to do something he "didn't like doing". This is like saying I don't like riding city busses yet taking a buss while I have a car in my garage.

[@WaleighWallace]

I think it’s because the epoxy essentially adds another layer to the outside of the print but this is more like acetone smoothing. Nothing is really added, just smoothed.

[@abimanyuriska8475]

I hate to wake up and now im still waking up

[@efe_aydal]

For people who are wondering when the video actually starts, it doesn't.

[@cartooncottage2024]

Thanks for the warning.

[@baran1080]

Thanks for caring for us aydal aybi

[@quietpillsdispensedondeman5189]

Youre a hater and human trash dude...pathetic. Yes the video does start and he covers many methods...

[@Klajnepojken]

@@quietpillsdispensedondeman5189 take a seat

[@oida6802]

Faşik 3D'cidir itibar etmeyiniz.

[@jaysprenkle1026]

Currently I'm liking Polycrylic by Minwax for smoothing prints. The water based version is easy to clean, not toxic, and easily available. It also can be used to fuse laser printer toner to a printed part. It does not melt the plastic. It fills in the texture.

[@GrowMau5]

It’s a cool product & a great video. But bro, please don’t blow smoke up our butts about the hazards of MEK when this gloop contains Methylene Chloride, a compound listed by OSHA as potentially carcinogenic. Personally, I don’t have a problem working with either compound under a hood or with protection. But knocking other methods to “promote’’ this product kinda turned me off. Cheers & respect.

[@make.anything]

For what it's worth the final product will not contain Methylene Chloride, I've been told **Edit: apparently it's cyclohexane they're taking out and the methylene chloride will be in small quantities.. so precautions should be taken!

[@Nevir202]

Not only that, but he used Acetone for ABS smoothing, which is just as bad if not mildly worse than MEK. So acting like MEK is super dangerous is silly.

[@DrJIMMI]

@@Nevir202 Your body produces Acetone. It's not bad in small doses but does pose a health hazard if breathing it in excessively as you can suffocate if you don't get enough oxygen.

[@oorcinus]

MEK is fine, as is acetone. Acetone is produced by your own body, as a metabolic byproduct. MEK is used in nail polish removers in place of acetone, because it’s slightly less irrirating to some types of skin. MEK actually does *nothing* to most PLA copolymers. It’s used for dissolving polystyrene, not PLA. The only things that do dissolve PLA are chloroform and tetrahydrofuran, both highly carcinogenic and hard to come by.

[@currenlydying]

honnestly it's harder to find smth that is not on the list of cancerogenic than smth that is on the list. Like, i mean there's magnetic fields and stuff like coconut oil foaming agents on the same tier of the list.

[@nerys71]

If you are up for it it would be interesting to see you print the same skull in the same filament put some effort into sanding it and then just hit it with the Rust-Oleum clear coat and compare the two

[@r.a.8861]

Sand it with what? Scotch Brite?

[@liamcasey7078]

@@r.a.8861 I hear sand paper is great for sanding

[@loganjames1795]

sand it with what,Said dumb and dumber... 😂 I've done that with tons of my place prints and it works great, but the only thing you have to watch out for, is using to low grit sandpaper. From experience, I found that 200 grit does the trick. I've also used clear coats, but it works better just to hit it with a glossy spray paint in the same color as the plastic. I would just hit it with a few layers of paint or clear coat, and sand it after.

[@srcoffeyjr]

So generally the higher the number (grit) the finer the paper will feel, also it maxes out at 1000. You can polish/sand items to get a natural gloss effect.

[@snackpack85]

Steve Coffey Jr sand paper doesn't max at 1,000. You can buy up to 2,000 at your local home center, and 5,000+ elsewhere.

[@cthulpiss]

soooooo.... adding additional layer of XTC-3D is bad, because it's additional layer, but layer of 3D Gloop is fine? Weird logic.

[@TBonerism]

Based on what I understand with this having Methylene Chloride in it, it acts as a type of plastic melting solvent. Could be wrong, but that's what I think is going on. Plus, on the squirtle model you can see where his arms and torso meet, there is some green from where the 2 colors are melting together.

[@dannnyqu]

@@TBonerism you are correct. that chemical is melting the plastic. similar in how acetone melts abs, but harsher of a chemical. i dont think his nitrol gloves he wore would really keep him safe

[@roadstar499]

I think epoxy is just as good or better for art work like this...

[@scrag2841]

The epoxy adds a layer (which will be of varying thicknesses) to smooth the lines whereas the Goop attacks and melts the PLA to smooth the lines.

[@DrunkAncestor]

@@scrag2841 So the idea is the Goop product does it's job and then evaporates completely? ie recycling is still possible (providing you don't then hit it with spray paint)

[@igorfedik5730]

Dichloromethane or methylene dichloride does the job. It is a common solvent for PLA and It is an active agent in these compositions. It is volatile and should work in a fume chamber just like acetone works with ABS. It is sometimes available in 3d printer consumables stores but in my place it is 10 times cheaper in lab supplies stores

[@MrBernouilli]

You're right it is only the Dichloromethane that did the smoothing effect. And it is like using acetone with a brush on abs part. But I would'nt heat dichloromethane

[@matthewg2007]

It is also suspected to be carcinogenic

[@Andreas-gh6is]

The safety sheet is just scary...

[@igorfedik5730]

Warning! Reading material safety sheets may cause acute anxiety disorder and lead to paranoid psychosis.

[@LanceThumping]

Based on the MSDS, that's the main ingredient in 3D Gloop.

[@RumbleLab]

Seeing the prints transformed into the smoother end result is weirdly satisfying! Great options to keep in mind for future prints.

[@Neltheraku]

the last minute of the video is the best part... just darkness and silence xD

[@Ulexcool]

You need to watch some "how to apply thin layers of paint" tutorial.

[@KurtisJoseph]

To HECK with sanding for hours. I mean this is so DOPE! San, cover, sand, cover, sand, cover x 100,000 days are DONE! These guys are the BEST! This will cost a bit but be so awesome for my armor.

[@museonfilm8919]

Here in the UK there is a product called 'Greygate Plastic Polish' - apparently used by the RAF to polish aircraft canopies (plexiglass). This stuff is liquid, and has an extremely fine grit, and is non-toxic. You dab it on, let it dry, then buff it. For prints with large surfaces it would be great, but maybe not something complex, as getting into those crevices may be an issue.

[@ctpctp]

2:10 - "another thing about that is you're adding a material on top of the printed part..." 4:27 - starts adding a material on top of the printed part.

[@KevinWeberYo]

I thought about that too, but I believe the epoxy sits on top as a shell, and the other stuff soaks in/evaporates

[@MauiRedMan]

If you use the cura slicer look in their experimental area they have an ironing setting that has made my prints super smooth

[@hawkbird6294]

thats only for top surfaces hah

[@ashkanaliyar6247]

That Cat Skull is super stunning ! what a masterpiece .❤😍💎

[@jakelabovitz9646]

Wow that skull looks amazing!

[@ThalisUmobi]

Yeah! Really efing good!

[@jpjay1584]

dude!!!! you say you put too much on the first one, then you FLOOOD the cat-scull! omg

[@brig8683]

Interesting, more interested in seeing the spray version,

[@veenix101]

My process is tedious but works well... I sand it down going from 80 grid paper all the way up to 240. Then I use some plastic glue and a toothpick to fill in any gaps that are left between layers, just very gently rub the glue over the areas that need work. Sand again, fill in again as needed and then by the end you got a good smooth result ready for priming and painting. Takes a bit of time but this way you keep details where they are needed.

[@dekutree64]

Thanks for the video! I might give this stuff a try. I've been using the XTC epoxy, which works great on a fresh printed surface, but anywhere that's been chiseled or sanded or scraped e.g. (removing support material, strings, nibs, etc.), the surface tension of the epoxy interacts with the imperfect plastic surface to create little nibs everywhere, so then I have to sand the epoxy as well. Still marginally more efficient than sanding the bare PLA surface smooth without any coating, but certainly not as good as I was hoping for.

[@rmp5s]

The cat skull came out pretty damn nice!

[@mrnickbig1]

PLA is easy to smooth with spray degreaser, such as Aerosolve. Just lightly spray it, and let it dry for a few hours.

[@piyerus1153]

I know this comment is a bit late and unlikely to be read (thanks KZbin for always recommending older videos), but I think it would have been more helpful when doing the tests on models to do a sort of 2-face thing, where you apply the product to one side of the model but not the other. That would give us a really clear look at what effect the smoothing has, since we'd be able to compare side to side. Love the videos, thanks so much for providing all this info.

[@make.anything]

Good idea, I'll try to remember that if I do anything similar in the future :)

[@vasilisanthis980]

Dude the videos are amazing. They're the perfect length and very interesting. Keep it up!

[@KarimAkors]

I use the heat blower from my smd soldering station to heat up spot by spot, dipping my finger in water and smooth the Pla, that works really good , after that you see next to zero any kind of layers. i printed a 35cm high alien xenomorph figure and after the smoothing i clear cote it with a few layers...even from close range it looks like made from dark shiny stone

[@make.anything]

Interesting strategy! Does it leave behind fingerprints?

[@KarimAkors]

@@make.anything no it gives a shiny surface, try it out on some part with layers visibly heat up a spot (not the entire print) to the point when the surface gets glossy from the heat than wet your thumb slide lightly across it, it works wounders on black pla looks like glas surface made from dark ceramic

[@KurtisJoseph]

OMG! I subbed for this video ALONE! Thanks!

[@chrinamint]

Wow...that's awesome! Great video!

[@sharkattack2009]

I use it mostly for a better way of gluing my pla prints together. Works really well for that. Not so much for big surface areas though as it tends to dry pretty quick.

[@der-andyman]

First, he says that he does not want to add layers, regarding the epoxy, but isn't this adding even more layers?

[@ArcanePath360]

I believe it melts the stuff slightly like how solvent eats into plastic, which is why it's brushed into it, so the effect isn't as bad as adding a coat of epoxy, which is used more as a filler but would be more difficult to thin out. Epoxy would be like adding another wall to your print. This stuff chemically reacts with the existing wall.

[@chrisdonovan9518]

since its an adhesive yes your just adding it in the gaps and slightly filling in the small layers... its fast acting so its gets gummy and begins to dry quickly but by definition this would be more like filling rather than smoothing

[@MaethorDerien]

This stuff actually melts the plastic and is just as bad as the stuff people normally use to smooth pla. Pretty much the only real reason to use this is when you want to show of the colors of the filament itself like the black glitter filament used for the cat skull. On something that is a flat color your better off doing the filler primer, paint then spray poly/vanish or epoxy methods. Done properly you can actually get insanely good looking results. The big difference is that while I think the paint or epoxy method looks the best it also is the most most time consuming and requires a lot more work. The melt smoothing methods are much less time consuming.

[@BLACKSYNTH]

I would cut out the gloopy stuff and just use a Nitrocellulose spray laqure. I find it works best and is easily buffed to a mirror polish.

[@chesterjones9565]

I can still see some of the layer lines, but now they're more "shiny"

[@TryptychUK]

The product looks pretty good, but I wouldn't use the brush provided. They are usually crap quality, too coarse and way too small. (I could see the brush marks.) Get a decent 1/2" or 1" paintbrush and pour the liquid into a larger jar. It's obvious that stuff has an effect pretty fast so being able to apply it more quickly has to be a help too.

[@billleonard2015]

So many types of respirators... which type of filters are you using here? Particulate, vapor, fumes, organic? Are they effective? Are they minimal? Overkill? Thanks.

[@3DSage]

I just posted a video to smooth PLA with spray Polyurethane! Very easy and I didn't even sand the model. Check it out too!

[@chrishechtl8330]

If you check out some of the other 3D pen videos you'll note that they use a hot knife to burnish and melt the outside layers to make it smooth and in some cases shiny.

[@justinlipkin]

Anyone else notices the last 30 secs of darkness? Oh well! Great vid :D

[@error404civicnotfound]

Jon Smith yes i did......

[@make.anything]

Ah sorry, I'm traveling through Sweden so I was a bit rushed! At least it's at the very end 😅

[@justinlipkin]

Well, you did amazing work, for editing the video while traveling!

[@LordCoquitos]

It was a smoothed out video sample :D

[@among-us-99999]

Make Anything everything for the 10 minutes. But it didn’t work No extra money for awesome vids 😔

[@sttm1283]

nice products and nice showing of the product. but you forgot the most important part. does it dry out or do one rinse it off with water? none of that info is available

[@federicomunoz2134]

I will try this method for sure!

[@rpocc]

Basically this 3D Gloop is the same dichlormethane aka DCM: a dissolvent for some plastics including PLA and PETG.

[@IllusionSector]

4:45 _Here's the model after just one thin coat, and as you can see..._ No, I can't. *FOCUS!*

[@Philafxs]

Might as well go with standard (and cheap) methelyne chloride, if you're going for something that contains that and other health hazardous elements anyways.

[@mr.chisels729]

Interesting product. great vid. I think you'll have even better results if you don't use their brush. I would say a finer bristle would give you a better spread of the product. will definitely try it.

[@KylejvT]

It is possible to smooth PLA with acetone though you do need to heat it up a lot more then normal as your using the acetone as a thermal conveyor. Here is my setup: acetone, 1.5 liter glass beker, a heated magnetic stirrer, a stir-bar, long wire hook for the model and PPE mask (plus ventilation if possible). I fill the beker a with about 2cm's of acetone I then add the stir bar and turn on the heat till it gets to a low boil, at this time you should watch the sides of the glass beker for the condensation line that will move up the beker till it gets to the edge now your ready. Attach your model to the wire hook and dip it below that line, you will see the model "wet" itself. Hold it there for 5 seconds then remove, repeat if necessary. I never have to do more then 15 seconds total for a glassy smooth surface. Place the model somewhere to dry afterwards.

[@MyRCChannel-CJScott]

Thanks for reviewing this product. I would be interested to know if there is an improvement in strength... when my prints fail, it's usually along the print lines. Since the Gloop seems to melt or fuse the layers, at least at the surface, I'd like to know if it reduces separation along the print lines. BTW, I just ordered a 4ox bottle. Thanks for the links... I hope you're an affiliate.

[@MrLuumpy]

More heat.

[@Nerdule]

Considering that literally the only thing the gloop is doing to smooth the part is that it contains the same "harsh, chemical solvents" you were so scared of, is there any reason whatsoever to use this stuff for PLA smoothing when I can just buy the solvents for much cheaper?

[@menteausenteprops]

Sorry for the long comment, it's worth it I promise: I have been working with resins for many years, Polyurethane, polyester and epoxi for different applications, but something was odd, every single Polyester resin I bought, it didn't matter how much hardener I used or the conditions, it never fully hardened, it always stayed kinda soft and jammed ALL my sandpapers, from hardware stores, paint shops, online distributors, always the same except for 1, the ONE that is sold by FormX Spain for some reaso it always works, very very hard and easy to sand, cures fast, with low or high hardener, and I discovered recently that it sticks to PLA and PETG prints perfectly so that's what I use for smooothing prints. It's 11€ for 1 KG of resin hardener included and it lasts for ages, hope it helps

[@make.anything]

Interesting, that's for the tip :)

[@DisgruntledPigumon]

Cool stuff, it’s like using model glue on model kits to melt down the seam lines. On an important side note, you should never turn your spray can upside down when spraying, that’s how you clear the nozzle as paint stops coming out and only the propellant comes out. It’s better to lift the object and spray from below if you need to. Also, don’t shake the can, do long, straight, overlapping coats, spraying past the object and back onto it. If you shook well at the beginning, you won’t need to shake it for the length of a normal spray. Another tip is warm up the can for a few minutes, it mixes better that way. :)

[@e_palpatine]

I’m putting on as thin of a coat as i can...thinner than on the previous model... *proceeds to glob on thick layers of goop*

[@moodberry]

A suggestion for the makers of GLOOP...#1: Use a fine hair brush for the applicator. #2: If you want to really sell this, then make it a spray. Using a brush picks up bits of dissolved PLA when you use it and puts it into the brush, which then smears this PLA/GLOOP adulterated mixture on teh rest of the print. The only way to avoid it is to make it a spray-on.

[@TikkaQrow]

Does it wash off afterwards? Is there any lingering toxicity? I want to smooth out some silk printed pan flutes, so at some point, lips will touch.

[@vgiron4979]

easy application and very clean work. thanks bro.

[@chaos.corner]

I have something called Weld-on 4 acrylic adhesive for when I cut acrylic with my laser cutter that contains some of the same stuff. I'll have to give it a try. Looks like it's about 1/3 of the price too.

[@TheBetterGame]

Definitely interested in that spray.

[@Dragnmastralex]

I would have liked to see how it works with small details like a small model with a detailed face.

[@sergetheijspartner2005]

I bought it because it was said to glue PLA parts, but it didn't glue the parts aswell as I'd hoped, also did not try because that stuff is toxic and i live in a small appartment with a kid and a small dog, so I do not want to endanger them. I never tried to smooth PLA with it so ths is definitely interesting to try, come to think of it I have a golumn printed with Vertigo Galaxy

[@ZUPRA9050]

Start with sand paper grit 120, 240, and proceed with wet sanding grit 600-1000. If your print have deformations you want to hide, apply wood putty and let it dry before sanding. Dont use "Gloop"

[@GaryMcKinnonUFO]

Thanks pal, always helpful and interesting.

[@IgnoreMyChan]

Doesn't this also screw up the tolerances? It's still adding material, isn't it?

[@wilson.5420]

IgnoreMyChan I think it slowly softens the plastic when in contact then it eventually evaporates

[@IgnoreMyChan]

That might still mess with your tolerances, right? :)

[@henrycharles2489]

I would think it does

[@funkbuqet-also]

I have used methylene chloride to smooth some prints and it will soften hard edges and fine details.

[@highrise9559]

"Here we have a model of a cat skull that I printed out for my girlfriend." I think it is safe to say those words have never been spoken before in the history of the human race. 😁

[@TealDobber]

If you have a communication channel open with these folks you should tell them to ship to Canada. If totally back this, if they would. I also checked their site, but they only seem to sell this product paired with abs gloop. I have no use for the abs gloup. Thanks for the video, love your channel!

[@KiR_3d]

Hi! Did you've tried some glossy finish for wood or maybe metal? I see that the main feature of this "3d Gloop" is that it fills caves between layers and make a film over it. Still at some angles you can see layers but yes, - the result is impressive anyway.

[@KiR_3d]

OK, don't answer )) Feels like Devin gets too much of comments so he can't check and answer on everything.

[@richardcruz-torres4942]

Are there any alternatives on Amazon? It's something that crossed my mind.

[@andresrios1163]

How is low-poly Squirtle printed in 4 different colors?

[@companyoflosers]

i mean yeah, while you get rid of layer lines, you add brush stroke lines. maybe will be better when they have a spray method for more even application.

[@petarromani1771]

Is anybody gonna ask why does your gf want a cat skull ...

[@bringamosa8480]

i bet it is a scanned version of a skull of a loved cat that passed away.

[@michaels3003]

Bringamosa , cat did not want to undergo a scan while still alive?

[@shallabim912]

Petar Romani Skulls are cool, cats are cool.

[@bryanrandom6382]

Petar Romani ikr

[@serentique]

Bird and cat skulls are my aesthetic.

[@3DPlasticFantasy]

Looks very nice, is that reacts like epoxy and hardens the surface or it's just smoothing the surface only ?

[@robertorosales2022]

So unbelievable, thanks for the info.

[@michaeldougherty6036]

Seems better for organic designs, where the goopiness works well with the original design. That low-poly Squirttle looked terrible afterwards, and would have been better of with simple sanding to keep the clean edges.

[@make.anything]

I would agree

[@Yoursoul101]

Are you getting any kick backs for people buying through the links in your description?

[@VLena_art]

You can better sand, spray sprayspakle, sand, and then spray paint... perfect smooth.👍

[@nonegone7170]

"Let's apply a thin coat" Start globbering it on there like he's got gallons of the stuff. Good thing you didn't go into the painting business...

[@Inventorsquare]

I think it's possible to get near that level of shine without the extra glaze. You should try multiple grits of sandpaper and a loose cotton buffing wheel mounted onto a low-torque drill. The dense felt wheels will ruin it. A heat gun or hair dyer might help a lot if only using a paper towel.

[@alanb76]

3D Gloop at $30 delivered looks good, but how does it compare to $7 delivered for a similar quantity of Acrylic Solvent Cement? The ingredients are similar.

[@markiemew]

I am definitely going to buy this.. it seems to have a pretty reasonable price but oh, the shipping! $16 for an ounce is steep, but I will definitely back it next time I get paid.

[@error404civicnotfound]

Just got my first printer JGAURORA A5 so Happy

[@3D_Printing]

Gloop is said to be the strongest PLA glue bv

[@johnbillings5260]

If you go over your print with a lighter at a decent pace it will smooth layers. You could probably do a vapor chamber with the Gloop to cut down waste and do an even coat.

[@raghavgarg6909]

Finally!!! Now I can smooth PLA prints.

[@Hawk1966]

To be honest I didn't really like the results. The skull looked great in the material you used but the Gloop seemed to just dull all the sharp, crisp lines.

[@BINX-RR]

I’ve seen videos of people using 3d printing resin to smooth their prints, and since it’s just resin you can wait till you want to cure it and won’t have any “gummy” stuff going on

[@lizabrown8276]

I had a plan to use a wiffle ball as a planter. Fill with soil, seeds in the holes and then I was going to hang them up. I didn't really think it through very well, because (as any person with any amount of intelligence would have figured) the dirt just wants to come out the holes in the bottom. SO, I decided to try to use my 3d pen to cover the holes on the bottom. Of course, it doesn't stick to the ball. Any ideas on what you would do to cover the few holes on the bottom of the balls? Not solidly because it needs to drain. But I don't want the dirt to all come out. BTW, I have things growing through the holes! I just sat the balls in a flower pot. Which is rather counterproductive to what my whole goal was.

[@BloodyMobile]

So, did they manage to make the sprayable version yet?

[@sddreamcrystal]

I'd be interested in seeing the spray on version of this stuff. PLA is what out library uses and trying to find ways of smoothing it out is a pain in the tail especially with prints that have organic shapes and parts.

[@code4chaosmobile]

Great stuff I'm saving up for my first 3D printer and I got to say you're making the wait very hard

[@mikegLXIVMM]

PLA prints: Sand, then rub some Ethyl Acetate onto it with a lint free cloth. Print will be a dull and line free. Buff or spray with a clear spray cote.

[@Gurhel]

Good video, I have only been printing for a couple months, I usually sculpt things, may I suggest instead of using the brush that comes in the bottle go buy a fine brush from your local craft store and scrape off excess from brush before application, should help with the clumping, I do the same thing with a brush on lacquer I use to complete my prints. I find bushing on my flea cat works better the spraying.. more control. But other wise very informative video may have to order some int eh new year and give it a go

[@Bamlydean]

I got this. I tried it for smoothing. It does not work and leaves a film all over the print. I am not sure how your got these results. Any advice?

[@brnsuprmn]

Cant you use Crystalac instead of epoxy and since its water based no smell and not harmful?

[@Girlbrush.Threepwood]

Do you have to "rinse" or remove the product in anyway to stop the process, or does it dry and stops the reaction by itself?

[@make.anything]

It dries on it's own. I haven't used it in a while but under an hour I'd say, but depends how much you cake it on

[@breadfan_85]

I didn't hear "durable" in your description of PLA. It's that because it's not?

[@upthepubs]

I use SciGrip3 for my PLA prints for welding the plastics together and for smoothing. It works amazing and and fast, also depending on applicator methods you don’t end up with brush lines from a coarse bristles like this product

[@JordanSC]

Nice video, thank you for making that.

[@donovangilbert7180]

That's pretty crazy! the skull doesn't even look like a 3D printed object

[@steffanmcbee7886]

Could you possibly thin the good to make it easier to do thinner coats? I'm going to be printing terrain for my gaming table, so am curious