What Is A Dartless Jacket?

A different kind of tailored for the world today. We're introducing the Model 15 and 16, bringing The Armoury's dartless jacket model count up to 4.
The featured Model 3 Sport Coat:
www.thearmoury.com/collection...
The featured Model 15 Sport Coat:
www.thearmoury.com/collection...
The featured Model 16 Suit:
www.thearmoury.com/collection...
See The Armoury's sport coats, including the Model 11, 12, 15 and 16, here:
www.thearmoury.com/collection...
See The Armoury's suits here:
www.thearmoury.com/collection...

[@MrJ3]

I am glad that sack jackets make a return. It brings me nice mental imagery of a bygone era, that I am now happy to take part in myself!

[@markchodotcom]

A bygone era but the clothing still feels relevant today!

[@krollic]

I prefer a more shaped fit but the unstructured and more casual nature of a dartless jacket is still something to be appreciated. I have a larger friend who looks good in them.

[@markchodotcom]

Indeed!

[@adamgriss2025]

I wasn't a big fn of the idea until you showed the double-breasted model. It's simple and elegant yet looks flawlessly comfortable. Chapeau.

[@markchodotcom]

I'm glad we had something that caught your eye! Indeed, all the dartless models have their own character, and I would hope everyone would have their own favourites.

[@derosa1989]

Beautiful. I think you're spot on with the comment about wanting to mix some pattern and slightly more casual looks this season, after a long pandemic period, I don't have that much desire to go back to formal navy and grey suits just yet!

[@markchodotcom]

A little change is good from time to time, right?

[@MarcusConstantine_Cavalida21]

I love dartless. I've always been sewing my DIY jackets to have no dart. I don't like the hourglass shape that much. I want to have a mean, big man silhouette. Like a straight barrel. I also favor more casual colors and designs too so a dart doesn't have use as an anchor point for any pocket bags because the pockets are all patched on.

[@markchodotcom]

They sound great! A bit like classic workwear or 50's/60's American sack jackets and the amazing advertising illustrations that went with them.

[@denton1972]

I liked these more vibrant and energetic color combinations. The jackets were also very elegant.

[@joshuamurray-nevill9127]

Really reminds me of the Ralph Lauren Polo 'sportswear' chore Blazers from about 10 - 15 years ago, same flap pockets. Though I'm sure the materials and construction are a little more refined.

[@markchodotcom]

I'd imagine those RL chore blazers took inspiration from similar garments to us. RL's vintage archive collection as well as the budget to acquire the pieces is significant. In our case, the Models 12 and 16 were loosely based on some vintage workwear blazers we found in Italy and dated back to the 1930's and 40's.

[@ngoodey]

I’d never considered a double breasted jacket but the blue one you tried on looks very chic

[@markchodotcom]

Thank you, we're pleased it turned out well and people are liking it!

[@animeboitiddies6146]

im rather fond of your three button jackets myself, reminds me of a better done thomas farthing style jacket. that said, the cold weve had here in the UK has me investing into cardigans quite a bit. ive got a friend making a shawl collar one from J C Rennies grease in wool, which i plan on wearing like a jacket with a nice shirt and tie.

[@markchodotcom]

Nothing like a heavy cardigan. My old boss, a very fancy English gent named Willie, used to wear one all the time in the office and it looked very comfortable and elegant.

[@animeboitiddies6146]

@@markchodotcom i dont doubt it, ive seen some lovely examples which inspired me to give it a go in the first place. i think it goes especially with wool ties to balance out the winter aesthetic.

[@kenneth7826]

_your dartless jackets will be a big success...why?? We are all built differently.....peace

[@aeffebb]

If a new customer walked in and asked to help him build a work wardrobe from scratch - given today's hybrid world - would you still recommend the grey/navy foundation before venturing into other more casual options, or would you start from a different angle?

[@TheArmourytv]

Hi Alberto, ultimately it would depend on the clients needs. If they work in an environment that allows for sport jackets in their day to day instead of suits for example, we would suggest things such as a navy blazer, grey trousers to start and build out from there with various different sport jacket models and colours/patterns.

[@markchodotcom]

As my colleague mentioned, I think I would also still start from navy/grey as a first few pieces. That been said, though, we also have customers coming from very non-tailored workplaces even prior to the pandemic. They want to get into suits because they want to wear something shaper to the office. In situations like that, I usually would still start with solid colours, though I wouldn't hesitate to recommend things like the models mentioned in this video which are a little less conservative.

[@aeffebb]

@@markchodotcom Thanks for the insights

[@aeffebb]

@@TheArmourytv many thanks, it makes sense

[@ebutuoy1406]

Are these also made by Ring Jacket?

[@TheArmourytv]

yes all the jackets shown in this video are by Ring Jacket!

[@markchodotcom]

Yes, all the model numbers less than 99 are made by Ring Jacket in Japan. 99 is by Tailor CAID in Japan and 101 is made in Italy.

[@ebutuoy1406]

Thanks Mark and Team. It’s interesting as someone based in Japan and also a frequent purchaser of Ring Jacket jackets- while they have a model No. 286 that has a slightly wider lapel, lower gorge line and slightly shorter jacket length, I don’t believe they offer a Florence style jacket in their current lineup, certainly no dartless models. Would love to try your Model 15 next time I’m in HK!

[@markchodotcom]

@@ebutuoy1406 Yes, Ring Jacket in Japan is quite different from what we do in Hong Kong. We designed our models in conjunction with them but they are very much our models and not a part of the Ring Jacket collection. Of course, this is not to say there aren't some great domestic Japan Ring Jacket models as well, like the 286.

[@nijikirainijinosei92]

I love love love undarted jackets.