WHAT IS YOUR CHAINPLATE ATTACHED TO? (Bulkhead Rebuild / Repair) Patrick Childress Sailing #54

[@frankd2301]

You explain things very well.

[@RVLifeNOW]

Patrick says thanks! He is glad it all makes sense. -Rebecca

[@justsomeguy2943]

That multi-tool is the best thing since the Sawzall! PS GREAT step by step instruction!

[@RVLifeNOW]

Dan, I bought the multi-tool a few years ago as it was the only way to make one difficult cut. But, since then, that multi-tool has gotten a lot of unexpected use. A must have tool on a sailboat.

[@robinhodgkinson]

I too thought the water based contact cement which I bought recently was pretty useless, compared to what I’d been used to. But I discovered the trick is you just have to be patient and wait for it to dry. Then put the pieces together! Unlike spirit based it takes an age, but the brand I have works well, as long as you can wait a couple of hours. If you get too frisky and put it together early it’s particularly useless. The reward is no smell and fumes. 😁 Wow you guys won’t know yourselves. That paint job is looking very nice!

[@RVLifeNOW]

Robin, Thanks for the insight on the water based contact cement/adhesive. After spraying 4 coats of white on our boat, I saw that part as being complete. It was not yacht quality but very fine for a long range, hard used sailboat. The workers were very adamant of continuing and making the work look much better. I did not have the heart to say no, and the labor rates made the go forward decision easy. Whatever our boat looks like, I can only thank the people here in Richards Bay, for making it look that way. Now, to try not to put scratches in it.

[@ratusbagus]

A lucky day. Pat's plop, plopped bang-on. I've used that thick gloopy sticky contact stuff. I like how it smells. But don't sniff it too hard! It'll affect your plop accuracy. I'll bet that chain plate is perfectly sound today. Well done Pat. You left your "bulkhead beauty" a superbly maintained vessel. That's a little joke between Pat and Me.

[@RVLifeNOW]

Haha Ratus Bagus...

[@ratusbagus]

@@RVLifeNOW phew!

[@davidc6510]

Great progress made on Brick House! Patrick your story telling editing for this episode was really good. It was so good to see the boat get the top half of the hull painted - she looks awesome. I hope you both had a great Thanksgiving. Thanks for sharing another great video!

[@RVLifeNOW]

Thank you, David. Yesterday, the Coppercoat went on. Now a bunch of little projects so in 2 weeks we can be on our way again....I hope.

[@davidc6510]

@@RVLifeNOW awesome news Rebecca! What a relief it will be for both of you to have that big refit completed! On a plane now about to head to Grenada for sailing!

[@hyrocket]

*Always curious to know what you're up to. i love the advice, tips and tricks you deal with on your boat*

[@RVLifeNOW]

Michael, It is a lot of work and time to put a video together. I am happy you find the videos worth while.

[@oneoceanatatime]

Looking forward to seeing you both underway again. You've earned it with all the love you've given Brickhouse lately

[@RVLifeNOW]

It has been a long haul to make this boat right. Even after launching, it will still be a bit cosmetically challenged but that is fine with me. It will be strong and ready for any ocean....even Tierra del Fuego. Two more weeks and we should be able to get launched.

[@RVLifeNOW]

Yes, it’s kinda funny...it won’t look that much different to most people...cosmetically...but it’s in awesome shape for another big ocean crossing and cape rounding. All the fixes you never want to do, not romantic, pretty or awe inspiring ;) Although the bathroom, and one side of the main saloon, looks a lot prettier! -Rebecca

[@oneoceanatatime]

@@RVLifeNOW We will be following along virtually

[@oneoceanatatime]

@@RVLifeNOW I'm sure you'd take 'seaworthy' over 'pretty' any day but glad to know that you are enjoying some cosmetic improvements as well 🌺

[@stephenkillick5812]

I see from my weather app that Richards Bay is 2 degrees centigrade warmer than Mtunzini. When you talk the higher 30's, 2 degrees is a lot.

[@RVLifeNOW]

Yes..it’s low 90s today... Fahrenheit. It’s heating up aroind here! -Rebecca

[@iwonanieroda4669]

Regarding the insulation , we have used the sleeping mats for outdoor camping. The have close cell foam on one side and aluminium membrane on other

[@RVLifeNOW]

Thanks.?How do you find working with those? Which side do you put next to the hull? -Rebecca

[@iwonanieroda4669]

Hi Rebecca ,we put the foam side to hull and silver towards cabin, very easy , we use contact adhesive applied with brush . They cost in UK around £4.5

[@RVLifeNOW]

That sounds like a smart solution to me -Rebecca

[@jordandegeus5791]

I have been using a product called reflectix. It's a bubble wrap material that's got a reflective material. The key factor is getting an air gap between the material and the hull.

[@RVLifeNOW]

Someone else mentioned that too...where do I find it..what kind of store? -Rebecca

[@jordandegeus5791]

@@RVLifeNOW I'm in the PNW so any hardware store has it.

[@Valerie_Dawn]

@@RVLifeNOW Home insulation section of a store like Lowe's or Home Depot. It comes in large rolls of varying widths.

[@benlindner5285]

@@RVLifeNOW I have used it as well, I recently covered all of my port lights and hatches with it when I had to leave the boat unattended during part of the summer. It worked surprisingly well and is inexpensive. I think I would prefer a foam against the hull however.

[@sollasollew3208]

Thanks Patrick, always informative

[@cigarmann]

Always good to see your informative uploads!

[@RVLifeNOW]

Thanks for watching? Just put a new thumbnail...I wonder if you can see it...with Rebecca?

[@cigarmann]

@@RVLifeNOW i dont think so......

[@flasher702]

@@RVLifeNOW , I saw it. I was hoping to see Rebecca using some power tools!

[@RVLifeNOW]

@@flasher702 That was total click bait!

[@dougrutherford9261]

Love all your tips and tricks. This info will help me in my boat projects.

[@RVLifeNOW]

Thanks for the compliment, and for watching! -Rebecca

[@RVLifeNOW]

Doug, I am happy the vids will help. Thanks for your comment.

[@danieloliver20]

Brick House looks fabulous all painted up....hey that deck chainplate area ain't going anywhere! Nice laminate explanation on the bulkhead, I'm guessing you epoxied the wood before hand, take care, Dan

[@RVLifeNOW]

Everything around the top of the laminate near the chain plate is well sealed. Yesterday we put on 5 coats of Coppercoat. Now a bunch of small projects so hopefully we can go back in the water, and be on our way, in two weeks. Thanks for your comment.

[@danieloliver20]

@@RVLifeNOW I would imagine you are more than ready to get back to sailing. Good luck on "rounding the Horn", I'm looking forward to that.

[@Valerie_Dawn]

For insulation and reduction of condensation in a utility area you could use automotive undercoat paint or spray. It provides a great thermal break and seal on any surface with zero water condensation. I have seen it used inside of a bare unfinished van-to-camper conversion with no other insulation to live in the Canadian Rocky Mountains in winter. I imagine it would work inside of a boat.

[@RVLifeNOW]

I think that is a great idea to first paint the inside of the hull with the undercoat, then put whatever insulation over it.

[@edwiser3547]

Nice work, Patrick. I have also used a heavy fabric made by Redrum to modernize and upgrade several sailboat interiors. It comes in many grades and colors and applies with Home depot contact cement. It has never failed. Glad to see you are using protective gear too. I am appalled at how many do-it-yourself types on you tube sand antifouling paint without protection.

[@RVLifeNOW]

Fabric is a nice idea. I see the Redrum is also sold through West Marine. I have really shifted away from all the varnished teak inside our boat, especially the bulkheads, as all that dark wood made it look like a dungeon.

[@edwiser3547]

@@RVLifeNOW Dungeon is exactly what you get with Morgan Out Island sailboats, their poor lighting, and the old cross weave pattern vinyl wall coverings. I used a backed vinyl in off white called Oyster and have even applied it on overhead sections. I recommend it highly. It is nice on the skin too.

[@RVLifeNOW]

Thanks for that great idea!

[@thesailingkiwi]

thanks for the vid, its coming along nicely 👏👏👏

[@RVLifeNOW]

Thanks!

[@marceld6061]

At 3:03 it looks like you are about to lose the bearing! 😮👀 One tip I am sure you are aware of for using contact 'adhesive' - if you have room, use your template as a spacer between the two coated surfaces, then when all is aligned, pull out the spacer slowly, sticking the laminate down as you go. Brick House is looking ready to handle the next 40 plus years.

[@RVLifeNOW]

Marcel, Good eye. After making that cut, the bearing retaining screw was nearly unthreaded and ready to fall off. Got lucky on that one. That poly-carbonate would be used as a flexible screed for applying epoxy faring on the curved surfaces of the hull. The screed had to be perfectly straight and not the slightest nick. Nice idea for use of the template. Vertical applications have always been a big challenge.

[@jayp.1455]

She is beginning to look very sharp!

[@RVLifeNOW]

Who me? -Rebecca

[@jayp.1455]

You always looked good. :)

[@RVLifeNOW]

@@jayp.1455 Yes, fortunately Rebecca has been low maintenance, unlike this boat.

[@mfhairstream6812]

u can use a skill saw to cut laminate too

[@RVLifeNOW]

Patrick says he will be giving this tool away when we leave here...I can’t imagine him living without it...he seems very attached to it ;) -Rebecca

[@MrZachalewel]

I love y'alls videos.

[@RVLifeNOW]

Thank you, Zach. It is a lot of work and hours to put together one video so it is nice to know they are appreciated.

[@marvinatkins2355]

Try using reflectix, you'll have to glue it to the hull, and then glue a skin of material over it to match your interior and protect it. This stuff is like bubble wrap, and is used on the ISS, but inexpensive so we can use it too!

[@RVLifeNOW]

Gonna look that up today! Thanks! -Rebecca

[@chenegabfree7617]

If I remember correctly, Ensolite foam was used on Valiants for insulation. The same foam used for sleeping pads for backpacking and climbing at the time.

[@RVLifeNOW]

Yes there is some unidentified insulation as it stands now. Not in the best (or cleanest shape) Is Ensolite suppose to be good? -Rebecca

[@chenegabfree7617]

Not sure how it compares to other modern materials, but I do know it has great insulation properties. While climbing in sub freezing temps on snow, we could not feel cold from the snow we were sleeping on. I have used it for hull insulation with success.

[@marccohen5579]

Patrick, I am using "Prosource Fit Extra Thick Puzzle Exercise Mat, EVA Foam Interlocking Tiles for Protective, Cushioned Workout Flooring for Home and Gym Equipment " from Amazon. It comes 1" or 3/4". I am gluing it on bare hull areas to stop condensation. It cuts easy. I live aboard in New England on my Saga 43. Marc s/v Gandalf 3

[@RVLifeNOW]

Marc, I have to wonder if they are too dense to be good insulators? A foam pad is full of tiny air pockets, acting as an insulator. Please let me know how they work out.

[@marccohen5579]

@@RVLifeNOW I am so sorry Rebecca. I watch Patrick as I know him. Too late to tell him that the mats kept the condensation away this winter. I will miss him.

[@nicktyrrell2515]

The first post from Brick House that I saw was Patrick’s last storm. So sorry. I did as asked and randomly watched an earlier posting, so as to meet Patrick. This is in response to his question about what to use as internal insulation for a boat hull. Suggestion: the sleeping mats sold for hikers/campers. Compact rolls, a convenient size for cutting to fit, completely waterproof, rot-proof, and (probably) available anywhere you can find a camping store.

[@johnkahts7698]

Just keep at it Rebecca. See you have learned a lot from the master.

[@RVLifeNOW]

Yes. I did.

[@eMThi_89]

Do you know Armaflex? It is a nice and durable insulation material and I find it easy to work with.

[@RVLifeNOW]

Thanks...now we do! How is it to work with?

[@eMThi_89]

It depends on what type of Armaflex you have. There is a self adhesive type and one without. And the thickness also has some influence in workability. Similar to the contact cement/adhesive the self-adhesive type will stick instantly to the surface, so just little room for mistakes ;-). The material itself, is cutable with a utility knife and you can sand the edges with sanding paper or files. As far as I understand it armaflex is closed-cell flexible foam. Most of the time armaflex is used for pipe insulation within buildings an constructions but it is also used for insulation and sound-deadening/reduction of rain and other noises in campervan projects. But it has a wide range of applications. The company that produce it, is called Armacell (based in Luxembourg, www.armacell.com)

[@RVLifeNOW]

Thanks for that information. Gonna check it out. Do you think it would be good for sound insulation in the engine room too? -Rebecca

[@eMThi_89]

Definitely!

[@luispalma6334]

@@RVLifeNOW And its reaction to flames is way better than other insulation material. Here is a video where someone test how it reacts to flames comparing with other materials. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fZ7UamCPpr1-mNU

[@jwrappuhn71]

Great vid ya'll.

[@RVLifeNOW]

Thank you JW.

[@albertosa6140]

In Brazil they call it "contact glue".

[@RVLifeNOW]

Ok thanks

[@paulkube3901]

Insulation? Instead of expensive "armaflex" type sheet, I use inexpensive rubber foam interlocking floor "tiles" ; cheapest from Harbor Freight. Also available from flooring dealers or children's room accessories, naturally at higher cost! ;)

[@Gardureth]

As been used by sailing Uma as well, puzzlepiece looking floormat/fitnessmat, cheap easy and decent looking. and it does the job.

[@RVLifeNOW]

Thanks, Paul. I will keep an eye out for those as there is more insulation needed in this boat.

[@yachticus]

Cork Tiles work just perfectly for insulation

[@RVLifeNOW]

Cork, that is a nice idea.

[@dougrutherford9261]

@@RVLifeNOW I also saw cork used on a video up here in the PNW. Check out Life is Like Sailing

[@RVLifeNOW]

I will search for it. Thanks.

[@martyspargur5281]

Dense cork tiles make a great cabin sole as well (sealed not bare). Cork is easy to find online. Please remind folks how extremely flammable non-water based contact cement is...Using the brush-on version instead of the spray can type that everyone sells works better for me bc it will fill gaps and you don't get "cobwebs" everywhere. The water based types are guaranteed to disappoint.

[@martyspargur5281]

Many types of foam are classified as "accelerants" not just flammable. Not to mention the fumes in addition to carbon monoxide.

[@kingjesus872]

Contact cement... Future home Depot employee haha

[@RVLifeNOW]

Really hah!?! -Rebecca

[@solsurfer1558]

🙏

[@RVLifeNOW]

Thanks

[@flasher702]

Any of the closed cell foams should have about the same insulation value per thickness. It's just a matter of it's other values (flexibility, weight, chemical reaction, heat resistance, fire resistance). I wouldn't want to do lots of layers, but more than one layer is a valid solution, especially when you have to consider all the curves and edges you have to fit. A foil lining can help ensure a vapor barrier and reflect a bit of heat (so if possible, put the foil on the hot side rather than the cold side or middle). Getting a tight fit without gaps or hollows and also without compressing the insulation is really the main problem. Spray-in self expanding foam is supposed to be the best for this application, isn't it? Why didn't you go for that? My grandfather used this kind of rigid, foil faced foam insulation in various thicknesses and multiple layers thick for a few projects, with a LOT of work to get it to fit around wheel wells and into non-square corners. Once he managed to make a flat surface of insulation he put one more layer over that to make it air tight. www.menards.com/main/building-materials/insulation/foam-board-insulation/johns-manville-foil-faced-polyiso-foam-insulation-4-x-8/w-n5075/p-1444438921381.htm I would love to use self expanding foam to set custom-formed aerogel in place, but I think that is still a dream rather than something anyone has actually done on a boat.

[@RVLifeNOW]

Lex, play around with a can of spray in foam and see what happens. The foam does not have a brain and just goes where it wants to....and can do some real damage when pushing against some fixed objects. Don't ever install new, expensive, windows in a house then spray in foam, unless it is the least expanding foam possible. The windows will get terribly bowed. It takes a lot of time to cut the foam out only to start all over.

[@benlindner5285]

Patrick, check out Mads on Sail Life. He has insulated 2 boats and has done extensive research on materials and costs. He most recently bought a lot of material for Athena and had a section in a video on his decision process and experience. I really enjoy your videos as I am a year into a refit of my Pacific Seacraft Orion and pick up lots of tips from you. Thank you for the hard work on the videos! Ben and (Ryker the border collie) S/V Dawn

[@RVLifeNOW]

I did catch Mads presentation of Aeroflex Insulation. The R10 is incredibly expensive but cheaper than Space Shuttle tiles. There are people who watch these videos who have little boating experience but do have a strong background in other area, and quite possibly, could come up with an insulation none of us have thought of. Your 27' Orion is a great boat for crossing oceans. I hope your refit goes quickly. I completed a solo circumnavigation on a Catalina 27 but most definitely had to pick just the right time of year and proper latitude to complete the voyage. On that boat and on our Valiant-40, I had to greatly increase the cockpit drainage. For some reason, boat designers just don't comprehend how much ocean water can quickly come over the side of a boat and must quickly be drained away.

[@benlindner5285]

@@RVLifeNOW Patrick, I have 2-2" scuppers in the cockpit. I did consider enlarging them but decided not to because of cost of new larger thru hulls and seacocks about $1000! Hopefully they will be adequate, I have not heard complains from other Orion owners about their capability. I can't imagine crossing anything more than a pond in a Catalina of any size! Very lightly built to my eye. A friend and experienced racer just traded his J for a Catalina 38' for strictly costal cruising in his retirement. It is perfect for that. My boat has sailed back and forth to HI from the West coast several times and cruised extensively in Mexico so it is well tested. I am going through the boat stem to stern replacing everything that could wear out or rot. All new running rigging, new standing rigging converted to Staylocks, new plumbing, all seacocks serviced or replaced, all thru hulls re-bedded, new electric, new pumps of all kinds, engine serviced with only 1200 hours, new solar, complete new electronics systems, new autopilot attached to Monitor, rebuilt fresh water system, new jib and drifter, all winches serviced and 4 added. Rebuilt tiller and bearings and drive shaft. All new batteries and primary wiring. Partial list! I should be too old to sail by the time I get it all done! Brickhouse looks GREAT, I would love to take advantage of Richards Bay for labor and weather for a re-fit. I have been in S Ca and it is CRAZY expensive here, I am going to Mexico to work on the boat down there to try to save some money. Best of luck to you and Rebecca!

[@RVLifeNOW]

I haven't hauled in Mexico but that does sound like a good option for getting affordable work done on a boat. Cartagena, Colombia is cheap, as is Fiji and S. Africa. Thailand and many parts of the Caribbean now charge California rates. Best of luck with your project. PS, for added cockpit drainage on my old Catalina and this Valiant-40, I went straight out the back of the cockpit panel to a through hull out the stern. That is shown in the Valiant-40 Tour, video.

[@lyfandeth]

Do you personally know anyone who has used copper coat and not gone back to traditional bottom paint after the 2nd year?

[@RVLifeNOW]

Lyfan, yes we do, otherwise we would not be trying it. So far, all the traditional antifouling paint we have used over the past 12 years had not done what the advertising says it would do. There is nothing left to try but Coppercoat. We applied the Coppercoat 3 days ago. Now, having hands on experience applying it, I can see how some boat owners could have a failure. We had to take 2 people off of the paint rollers as they could not catch on how to apply Coppercoat evenly. One of those people I gave a new assignment of being "mixer man". He used a 1.5 inch scraper to go from one paint roller pan to the other and constantly lift up the settled material and keep it mixed. In between that job, he would wash out the mixing pots and roller pans so we had clean ones for the next batch. There are other pointers as well. One day I will put together a video of our Coppercoat prep and application and try to point out some of these things I have not seen in other presentations. There is a boat at the marina, here in Richards Bay, South Africa, that applied Coppercoat 15 years ago and it is still doing what it is supposed to do. Certainly time will tell, but I do have high hopes for our Coppercoat job. Doing the work myself and hiring my own crew, our Coppercoat job has cost us a tiny fraction of what we see others have paid to contractors to complete similar work.

[@RVLifeNOW]

Before we ever decided on Coppercoat, I contacted what must be 30 different owners, many of whom we know personally, who had had Coppercoat applied anywhere from 12 years ago to 2 years ago. There was one unhappy one who was going to do some touch ups and try again, and one who was very unhappy that he still had to scrub the bottom and was planning to paint over it. He felt for $20,000 there should be no growth! If we paid that much, we may feel the same way. There were at least 28 others who were very happy. I think the people you hear from who don’t like it feel there should not be a ANY growth. The reality is, that you are going to have to scrub the boat just like with traditional antifouling paint...but it’s gonna be a much easier gentler faster scrub. Stuff will absolutely still grow...especially slime, and depending on the area, some hard stuff may grow too, but it will scrape off very easily. We expect we will need to have it raised to do a pressure wash at least every few years too. But yes...many happy owners that I have been personally in touch with are very pleased. Otherwise we would never have gone through all this work to do it. Granted most of the work was done to treat the blisters. If Coppercoat works for even 4 years it will have paid for itself, since we seem to haul every 2 years for more paint, and because we applied it ourselves, we don’t have $20,000 worth of expectations. We predict we ARE gonna have a few problem spots because I don’t think our application was perfect, but on the whole, I have high hopes. And the whole price tag...aside from what we had to do from the blisters...was under $2800 including all of the material and help. Coppercoat need not be a $15,000 affair if you do it yourself with the help from some yard workers. And it can be just as perfect OR imperfect as any yard would do it too. But ask us again in a year, 3 years...Only time will tell! Rebecca

[@Div3r]

@@RVLifeNOW The yacht that had $20,000 spent on Coppercoat wouldn't happen to have a BRITish Captain and an amerICAN 1st Mate by any chance.

[@martyspargur5281]

Rebecca, why don't you use the Brick House theme song? The one by the Commodores. I think it would add some pizazz to the sailing scenes. Oh, right, copyrighted content, the YT bean counters wouldn't like that.

[@martyspargur5281]

Ya She's a Brick. House. She's Mighty Mightee (just lettin' it all hang out). She's a Brick! House! etc

[@RVLifeNOW]

Exactly....would LOVE to use it. It’s our love song after all! -Rebecca

[@captaintoyota3171]

Not sure why you didnt epoxy seal that entire bulkhead and any wood nearby

[@RVLifeNOW]

That would have been a good idea in my opinion..but this is just the wife. Chances are he did :)

[@brucevov1]

👍👍👍👍👍👍,

[@RVLifeNOW]

Thanks

[@arthurfleck1554]

foamglass

[@RVLifeNOW]

yes

[@philthefarrier9469]

For template work you could use a tic stick, it could be much easier. How to make and use it are on KZbin. Very simple, cheap and easy

[@RVLifeNOW]

Yes, a tic-stick would work but getting it close with a pen and a thumb running against the hull is good enough, then tweak a little with the disc sander. A compass, holding a pencil, would also do well.

[@linesledaft]

Moved outboard with oversize everything.

[@RVLifeNOW]

That is always an option but then interferes, even more, with the jib sheets, and the cosmetics aren't good. For resale value, best to keep to the original plan.

[@linesledaft]

Patrick Childress Sailing that is true. Some people do not like it. I have an Alberg 35, but I don’t think it looks bad on this boat. I believe I follow your Instagram as well. Great stuff! @linesledaft

[@andersjakobsen9906]

Well, I know for a fact that a closed cell ‘camping matt’s’ (This you can roll up) works fine. Or yoga ☺️ They can be bought dead cheap. And you can put up two liars if you want. The point is that it must be closed cell. Fair winds ,,,/),,,,

[@RVLifeNOW]

Thanks, Anders. We use an exercise mat for a layer of insulation on the top of our refrigerator box. I was almost ready to cut that up but thought I would first see what the marine store had.

[@andersjakobsen9906]

Yes, now I remember that. But if you go and buy a “not known brand” They can be really cheap.

[@rdwilliams9581]

Cork.

[@RVLifeNOW]

Someone else suggested this too. Has it worked well on your boat? I would imagine it absorbing liquid...not preventing it but I’m not sure -Rebecca

[@rdwilliams9581]

"R" factor is determined by a standard. That standard is cork. One inch of cork being R100. 1/4" cork dry fit then painted with Thompson Water Seal with 4 layers painting each layer has worked for 12 years and still dry. This is on a steel hull. I don't know about fiberglass.

[@RVLifeNOW]

Thank you, Rd. I had no idea cork was such a good insulator. I will definitely keep my eye out for sheets of cork to use in other areas of our boat. Patrick

[@Kitiwake]

Insulation. Glass fibre or aeroboard. Obvious.

[@RVLifeNOW]

If it is the glass fiber batting that I am familiar with, that stuff can not tolerate getting wet. The Aeroboard, EPS, is a good idea in areas that it can be tightly wedged in and develop no squeaks when the boat moves. Thanks for the idea.

[@PawlSpring]

Uh oh. Coppercoat? Give this video a look before you go that route: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oIfXq3Wbo8icsJI

[@RVLifeNOW]

Jon, Thanks for the link. I watched this video a couple months ago. Yesterday, I, with 3 other people, spent most of the day applying 5 coats of Coppercoat. I know of a cruiser who paid a lot of money to have traditional antifouling put on his boat. Two weeks later, that traditional antifouling was peeling off in sheets. Shit work/application, happens all the time, all over the world with all sorts of marine products. As one friend, living in Connecticut, said about the yard workers who screwed up his boat, "Those are the most overpaid, under skilled people I have ever dealt with. Maybe the owner of the company knows what is going on but the people he sends out to do the work, don't have a clue." A boat owner can't just throw money at yard contractors and expect to go away happy. An owner has to be an active project manager and have knowledge of the process that his project requires. Now that I have first hand experience applying Coppercoat, I think I can uncover errors in the application process that are not mentioned in some of these videos. If an owner knew to watch for these errors during the application, then quite possibly, a bad situation could have been avoided. I have gotten some very good, first hand, testimonials from yacht owners with Coppercoat so it does seem to be an application failure not a product failure. I think we will be in good shape....and besides, in 12 years, no other antifouling we have used did what the manufacturer said it would. Coppercoat is the only thing left for us to try. One day I will put together a video about our Coppercoat application.

[@tinhodornellas]

Rebecca, Patrick regarding the insulation, ensolite, I have found a place and had redone the many panels I had to rip off my Valiant 40. The source is foamforyou.com/ensolite-foam.html. Great pricing on rolls of the stuff, in both black and natural color. I am documenting my restoration here: facebook.com/v40refit/photos/ Good luck on yours, Starting to look great!!

[@RVLifeNOW]

Thanks for the info, Tinho. The worst of the work on patching up Brick House is done. All the resin blisters have been treated, all is painted and today we finished the Coppercoat job. I could spend the next couple months just making videos of this work. But soon, we hope to be off to Capetown.