What Most People Don't Know About Pouring Concrete Floors (Now You'll Know)

[@LordOfHoboes]

I really admire your patience in constantly explaining the same thing over and over to the critics and armchair contractors. You consistently impress me with your builds and videos, keep up the good work Mike!

[@spuriouseffect]

What keeps all the aggregate from setting to the bottom in concrete that flowable?

[@luissegura4401]

I poured concrete years ago... a friend of mine needed help pouring his driveways, so I offered to help him. Since then more work has come up. I'm thinking about starting a business. I appreciate your willingness to share your wisdom.

[@neildavis167]

As someone who has tested concrete for many years, it's nice to see contractors that understands this stuff. Well done!

[@MikeDayConcrete]

Thank you, where you from?

[@benp1201]

And all testers know is testing wake up

[@billys6369]

you do your pouring basically the exact same way our crew does. We generally pour a 5" slump. But you convinced me to get a vibratory screed in one of your videos. absolutely love it. It's stupid easy. I should have got one 20 years ago. we usually only use a water reducer on inside radiant floors. Just seems to make life easier when you have to kick screed. But a 5" slump is no problem for a shockwave. we put slabs down now in about 1/2 the time it used to take. You have already answered the question of why I think that an 8" slump might be a problem. Water to cement ratio. I just like to keep a regular simple mix as few additives as possible. Thanks for the videos you have your shit together, you know what your doing. It's kinda fun to watch someone else work while I have a cold beer sometimes.

[@bethechange4934]

One of the most intelligent videos I've seen in a while. If your concrete producer doesn't have one of these products, find a different supplier. Another great addition for those placing in hot, dry, windy weather where plastic shrinkage is a problem... micro fiber. Let the technology do your work for you.

[@MikeDayConcrete]

Thank you, I agree. We put fiber in all our pours.

[@michaeldelvecchio7898]

Not sure why folks keep questioning the quality of your mix Mike, it made perfect sense to me early on when I first tuned into your channel. I could definitely detect a noticeable "tone" in your video narration regarding the subject of using WR and folks calling what you pour, junk. Sounds like a general lack of understanding on their end.

[@handyscapersllc]

Mike, I love your explanations and how much detail you add when you explain stuff to us. I'm brand new to concrete. My 1st job was a 8yrd ashlar slate#920 with a Grey release stamped patio with a seating wall sitting on top a retaining wall. I was so scared and stressed but everything worked out thanks to you Mike and the help of my neighbor who does concrete. I'm a hardscaper who noticed the market for concrete. Last week I had my 1st mistake. I didn't add retardant because I never knew anything about it. It was 98° that day. Now I'm doing everything I can to make this right with the customer to prevent my very 1st unsatisfied customer. I'm definitely giving major thought on joining the concrete underground.

[@hyperbaricaxom1763]

I recently started watching your videos and really enjoy them. You've got a great crew there. Concrete & concrete work is the most misunderstood subject matter by the general public, of any subject matter (except politics perhaps, lol). I've done it for 2 decades, then moved into the concrete materials testing & research technical side of the field for more than another decade. Then finished off my later years driving/operating a concrete mixer truck. I also traveled the nation working on structural failure analysis/investigations, QC, and large construction operations. At plants & on the jobsite, I've mostly used & worked with WR Grace products, and poured plenty with WRDA-19 (HRWR). But have done extensive lab testing on all of them, Sika, Euclid Chemical, Master Builders, you name it. It's scary (yet too common) to see other contractors pouring 7"-9" slumps WITHOUT any water reducer admixture. Personally tho, I wouldn't push a mid-range water reducer dosage past 6" slump for flatwork and 8" would be my limit for flatwork with a high-range water reducer. Regardless, the most important point is the actual water/cement ratio of the mix. That's the key. One word on 'fibermesh'. A lot of ppl have the (mostly false) belief that it actually is 'reinforcing' the concrete, adding 'strength', and adds significant resistance to concrete cracking. We've done very extensive testing on a wide variety of concrete fiber products, including steel 'fibers' (bank vault mixes), fiberglass varieties, and a host of other fiber materials. In general, fibermesh helps control surface drying/shrinkage cracking, but our tests showed that the typical dosage of fibers per yard in a mixer truck did little to nothing for actual resistance to deeper concrete cracking or strength on flexural testing. There was only any measurable gain when 3x to 4x the dosage amount of fibers were used.

[@DeuceGenius]

wire is better

[@andrewmiranda6160]

I like your videos. Truth be told all concrete will crack. I have been playing the game for 35years plus every day. Solid material has a high level of cracking. Fact. Harry Dunn says hi.

[@marlonvite4152]

Mike, you are the EPITOME of my repeated quote "IT IS EASY IF YOU KNOW HOW' .... a real pleasure to watch and listen to .... my greatest joy learning always one more thing in each of each of your videos.... the world is already better with people like you and I ; )

[@mikeglynn5824]

Ty Mike great vid! I’ve been in the roofing business over 45 yrs and always marvel at other tradesman and their skill. Great job!

[@MikeDayConcrete]

Thank you

[@varmooo]

Love this channel. Thanks for your experienced tips, Mike, they've been helpful. I only started one year ago, mostly doing flat grounds like this. We work as a 3man team here in Estonia. A concrete driver operates only on the pour with the remote, my job is to work "on the hose & pour", 2nd guy right behind me is " on the laser & wet pads" , my older brother is 3rd man " screeding" with a 8foot long screeder. So when Im done pouring, I work on the rake behind both guys( laser man takes a 8foot screeder aswell when the pads are done). And we usually like our concrete even more wet than this. I never understand Aussies who pour the stiff dry mix and then start to screed. Doing that every other day, man , you are retiring @40 if you continue like this. The concrete will loose its strength when added water , I know that, but we're not doing flats for skyscrapers, these are mostly 1 story houses not duplex, so we figure its easier on the body and we have to wait a little longer before finishing & power troweling. Keep posting your quality content! And give your crew a nice summer vacation too. Its hot out there. Cheers!

[@bobbyj0708]

I am always impressed by how easy you and your team make this look.

[@meatman6640]

like your videos i have been a mixer driver since1995 theres not many things i havnt seen i think your doing a great job around on residental jobs flat work most use 4000 psi some 4500 pour it wet no plastsizer use zip strips instead of saw cut keep up the good work hats off to your crew im from southern il close to st louis

[@MikeDayConcrete]

Thanks for watching @Meat Man!

[@stevemccormick4938]

I find it fascinating that you have to keep explaining about water reducers.

[@MikeDayConcrete]

I agree, seems like not many listen to me while watching the videos.

[@chessiekid4018]

We are listening mike, keep up the videos, we love your instructions.

[@organogold8]

Im listening 😂 Going to pour a 12x16 slab in two weeks by myself and I'm like slump 6 or 7 ... Being a woman and asking about these additives . I get a a like you don't know what you are doing. However I've been pouring concrete and love pouring. I love the forming part a little more. 😊 Thank you for the information and pray for more success in your life!

[@johnfahey7215]

we poured 4-5” slump. back then we didn’t have or know about the additives available today, on commercial jobs, we had to pass the testing, on side jobs, more water meant more time waiting to finish, more time on Saturday!

[@MikeDayConcrete]

Same here back in the 80's and 90's.

[@yopappy891]

That's the reason I quit pouring as a young man, the old timers were killing me. We had to use a Jitterbug to bring up the fat, it was like peanut butter and it sucked.

[@upsideways]

This changes EVERYTHING! 🤓

[@philipandersonjr8501]

I usually pour 51/2to 6 inch slump I'm just learning about the reducer and I like what I see and anything to help not kill the crew getting it on the ground is key to a good day of pouring .ill be trying it out .your info is really helpful to me as far as convincing these less experienced guys who are about saving money on product versus man power .they haven't had a bad day of concrete finishing yet .thanks for info .you have a bad ass crew you make it look easy and I love seeing that .

[@MikeDayConcrete]

Thank you!

[@marcelpeloquin1160]

I live in Massachusetts and I pour at 6 to a 7 I power screed alot and I use pretty much same way as u and it comes out great everytime

[@MikeDayConcrete]

Thank you Marcel!

[@PATTACAT72]

The God of concrete. Thanks for sharing your knowledge

[@taylormorgan7756]

This is my 8th year in concrete and I’ve never used such a high slump for anything accept walls. We usually do our stamped at a 6 inch slump due to the color eating up the water like chloride. Otherwise usually a 5-5.5 unless it’s a small pour and we want to get out of there quickly then it’s 4.5-5. If it’s in the shade we use chloride 0.5-1.5% depending on conditions(humidity, whether in the shade or not, temperature outside etc..)

[@MikeDayConcrete]

Old man's concrete slump

[@davidsargent8543]

@@MikeDayConcrete Hey Mike I'm from Detroit and I've only got 7 months experience in as a laborer I'm going back into concrete next week I've been watching all your videos to learn as much as I can....

[@tombarnes1871]

I enjoyed this video and I agree a water reducer, fiber mess, some type of rebar is the way to go!!

[@jkmurphy3]

We pour all our parking lot pole bases with a mid range add mix and fibers. Pours like butta and leaves no holes after its vibrated. A pea-gravel substrate makes it flow even easier.

[@DavidFreelandAZ]

We use either grace or master builders. 6 to 8 range. In Phoenix during summer, gotta get it down fast and this is great way to do it and not lose strength.

[@MikeDayConcrete]

Awesome David!

[@DavidFreelandAZ]

LOL, we mad a mistake with a concrete pour using high range reducing agent and placing it into an explosion proof room, There was so much re bar in the 10 long 6 feet wide and 10 feet tall wall you could not see the footing the wall was sitting on and we used the high range to place it. We thought we were real smart as we calculated the volume of steel in the wall and it ended up be 16 cubic feet. We subtracted a 1/2 yard off of or order and we ended up short about two wheel barrows short. LOL, not our best day at the office. Keep up the good work and you and your crew stay healthy.

[@jaredsprague5710]

We work in central Midwest. We typically use 4000 psi mix to make up for the extra water for higher slumps. Breaks usually deliver an approximate equivalent to what you’re probably getting with water reducer and 3500 psi mix. I haven’t done the math on cost. Maybe I should, but we’re seeing a lot more cost increase associated with mixing and hauling compared to product cost increase.

[@coledogger2227]

Great video on reducer. I noticed you are pouring on foam board with no wire or steel. Can you do a video explaining why that’s appropriate? I’m planning on building a slab on grade house in a very cold climate with heated floors, and looking for a best practice on pouring with no rebar. Thanks again for all the great videos!

[@MikeDayConcrete]

We pour slab on grade houses like that all the time with just fibermesh. Styrofoam then radiant heat, then the concrete pour. Sub-grade is really the key. If that's done right then no problems. I mostly use a 3500 or 4000 psi mix with micro-fiber in it.

[@rjildhGraham]

Thanks for sharing. I have been pouring concrete sense the 70eds. I always had the adatude I can always learn more .

[@chinky864]

We use sika 2100 and small dose of stabilizer in the summer We also offer NITROCRETE (liquid Nitrogen) to keep Temps down.

[@OdellCompleteConcrete]

Great video Mike!

[@MikeDayConcrete]

Thank you 😊

[@philstone7475]

You two need to do some videos together!!!! I learned concrete in San Diego and moved to Tennessee. It sounds crazy but doing concrete here is waaaaaaay different. The different climate and mix ingredients etc. were a big challenge. If you each went to eachother’s areas then you would both learn a lot from each other’s ways of doing stuff. Respect to both of you!!!

[@josephmiller4052]

Great video Mike. Cost in Chicago is 227.48 a yard. I work for a general contractor who does his own concrete work. I'm the concrete project manager and finisher. We use a 6 bag mix. We use a bull float mag float we are doing 6 to 8 projects a week we are slowing down now.

[@claytongrant7367]

Man..... lookin at the guys on the rod board make my back hurt lookin at it, looks like you have a good crew. All in time and step with puttin mud down. My finishing is days are in the rear view mirror now but, its nice see a good crew whoop it out. As far as the add mixtures it was always hard to get our inspectors to approve them since the local jurisdiction had no reference/standard for them in the city approved standards. I had to tear out almost half a mile of trickle channel because the Engineers Spec called for a 4"slump, and when the inspector saw what i was adding to the trucks one of those incidents happened you never forget.(4"slump in August in Oklahoma is rough to say the least) fine work lady and gents!

[@tomruth9487]

I saw a ready mix truck the other day and he had a funny tank on the side. I asked him if it was for water reducer and he said it was. I'm sure adding it at the jobsite gives you a bit more working time.

[@mrconcretemsc6272]

Hey love your work! Thanks for the info!! I've been doing stamped for 40 years and I've never heard about this stuff!

[@mikecardwell6497]

I do not do concrete for a living just side work . I am on the west coast . Where you have poured thousands of yards I have only done hundreds of yards. I like a 7 slump and saw cut and have never used a water reducer, not because I would not but because I have never heard of it . Thanks for the education I found you about a month ago. I will be asking about the water reducer on my next pour. Mike

[@duanewessie7374]

Thank you for all your input. Very much appreciated.

[@jackdunham8557]

Mike Day could circle the globe with all the concrete he has poured ! 👍👍 Nice job, sir.

[@VgniK88]

Tia you look like a pro out there magging 👍🏽

[@MikeDayConcrete]

😊 thank you

[@travisnoyes6019]

I use this on every floor. Makes the pour so much easier. We have jobs from Rockport to rangely maine. Our shop being in palermo maine. That also looks like a footing with 2 ft wall then a slab. We try to talk home owners into doing this rather than a slab on grade with real thick edges. I feel it a much better foundation for a building in this region

[@MikeDayConcrete]

Thanks Travis!

[@jeremyb8941]

You can definitely tell your training your young worker right.!! She’s maging those edges like a pro.!!💪😎.. love that you explain everything....and when you have been doing it as long as you have then any information and what to do and what not to do is valued information..... take notes young bucks.!!! You just might learn something.!!!! 😎😎

[@MikeDayConcrete]

Thanks 👍

[@kendallrouse44]

You guys are top notch.

[@MikeDayConcrete]

Thank you!

[@kendallrouse44]

Can i call sometime?

[@brooketrout1717]

I use it on all flat work not sure what name brand my local plant adds but i usually use a mid range

[@MikeDayConcrete]

That's great.

[@mflanagan1076]

All good but how come you don't bump the service store out inch and a 1/2

[@morgan79347]

Thanks for the information on the add mixtures

[@traviscorley2246]

Water reducer allows you to be able to pour weight without ruining the integrity/strength of the mix. I do it all the time. My laborer appreciate it because it’s easier to handle and gives more time to finish before setting.

[@sikosis999]

hey Mike, i have a question over the newer concretes and additives versus the older systems and even the situation with "roman cement". . . the whole discussion about durability, both tensile and flexural strengths like you were talk'n with the additives across those spectrums . . . with a mind towards environmental impact, i'm not some tree hug'n loon but the science and empirical examples exist to suggest the pursuit of a more "roman-esque" style of cement is not only better over all quality, but environmentally more rigid in the right ways . . . always been a curiosity for me, especially from tradesfolks who have direct knowledge of the material base over a longer period of time. ever dug through and picked all that apart?

[@MikeDayConcrete]

Sorry, no.

[@sikosis999]

@@MikeDayConcrete awe man, come on . . . it's a fun topic :)

[@JFirn86Q]

Do you add the water reducer to the truck when it gets to the site? From my understanding, those polycarboxylate water reducers have a time limit for how long they keep the concrete like that, then it rapidly changes back to a low slump. (not a concrete pourer, just a curious viewer!). EDIT - just heard you say they mix it in at the plant, does this ever cause a problem if 1 hr away?

[@jamesbelanger9077]

How long do you have to wait for it to set up for trowel machine

[@pnutmal]

Around here all the concrete has mid range in it you dont have to ask for it . But if you want high range ( super P ) they dose it on site . Because it starts to return to the orginal slump in about 30 mins . It must be different stuff then you use .

[@keeseywelding]

We use the euca. Comes from the plant at about a 5. Add super onsite and flow it right in….

[@tedrowland3840]

Do you do much concrete beans for floor support s like concrete floors?

[@smarternu]

Great information. I always explain painting to people in terms of flow. It can be hard to understand.

[@williambrabbin4540]

Mike- You mention using the reducer for a garage floor. Is there any reason you couldn’t use it for a driveway too?

[@MikeDayConcrete]

You can, we use it on all our exterior pours, just don't pour quite as loose if there's a slope.

[@74stevedc]

I watched a documentary on pouring slabs at the World Trade Center building 7. They poured 14,000 PSI pumped at a 8 slump with all the additive's. All Concrete rejected after sitting longer than hour and half 3 different companies supply it. Things have come a long way since the 80's.

[@edwardfaris8516]

And yet it all came down like a house of cards..😔

[@randybobandy9828]

@@edwardfaris8516 ya because nobody designs buildings to withstand a fucking 747 flying into it.

[@andersonroberts9802]

how well did that product work in the island

[@otisdriftwood5396]

Go with a 6 sack wall/footing mix and when the trucks get there pull the wall by hand with spades about 7 men or so, hell with the pump! Add about 25 to 30 gallons to a 10 yd truck soon as he pullls up,watch out how you tie your steel and watch out for rocky spots and get those bottoms clean and straighten that wall as you top it and put your anchor bolts in, not flatwork I know but walls are fun

[@kevinmcfadin2141]

I pour at 7 slump . I have never heard of those type of slump additives. The problem I have with using water is how it comes to the top and just set,s there.will this type of additive stop that ? I put plastic down on all inside floor,s to stop sweating during winter months. Thanks for the tip Mike.

[@MikeDayConcrete]

We still get some bleed water on poly in the shade. Mostly it dries up pretty good though.

[@hyperbaricaxom1763]

Hate to say this, but if you're pouring at 7" slump and that's without any mid or high range water reducer, then you're significantly using way too much water in the mix. To the point you're 'diluting' the water/cement ratio to very unacceptable levels. I would guarantee if you're pouring a 4,000 psi mix at 7" slump without a moderate/heavy dosage of water reducer in the mix, your actual 28 day concrete strength is no greater than 3,000 psi, at best. If you're pouring 3,000 psi mix at that slump... egads.

[@6582rg]

Outstanding job Mike.

[@MikeDayConcrete]

Thanks

[@scottpaulson1714]

Learning allot from you watching your videos. The wet concrete question I have, does the climate make a difference. I'm in Missouri I don't believe ive ever seen a pour this wet and didn't know if that is climate related to geography.

[@MikeDayConcrete]

No climate doesn't make a difference. It's mostly temperatures that make a difference.

[@jeromeduet8789]

Definitely I can’t wait to use that product

[@JTEA856]

Gotta love them old timers who swear by a 3 slump! Lol here in jersey I like 6 to 8. Keep it tight around any technical stuff like drains or steep grades, then wet it up for the main pour to make it a little easier on everyone. Also a couple of good rake guys makes the straight edge job a lot easier. Nice work as always!

[@MikeDayConcrete]

You're right on!

[@JTEA856]

@McQuasi depending on the type of drain I’d say it’s necessary. For one you’ll never hit your height with it wet, you make get it there but the second you walk away it will sag. For two when it’s tight it keeps the form from moving around. You can pin a drain heavy but they always move for some reason, so at the beginning of the pour we put tight concrete around it kinda just to reinforce it. And also it make it nice for rubbing the inside of the face. If you’re doing a floor at the same time it’s nice because once you go to do your first hit you can sometimes strip that drain form and get it looking good early. Lol took me a while and a lot of concrete to understand it but the more you work with it the more you’ll get it.

[@JTEA856]

@McQuasi yes monolithic

[@UmerKhan-gw7ud]

I see no problem with water reducer, where I live we always pour this wet, even some people are pouring roofs with that stuff.. 👍

[@MikeDayConcrete]

Yes, I agree!

[@jamesmerritt7273]

Is the admixture added at the plant or on site?

[@jeromeduet8789]

Really appreciate all your knowledge Mike God bless

[@shaheb777]

Brilliant video..im a learner, i didnt see u vibrating the concrete ,,,?

[@MrKevins39]

the concrete i pour is a spread not a slump. its called self compacting concrete for those who dont know. its between 20 - 25 inch spread. we use high range water reducer admixture slag and silica. the strength is between 8000 psi to 12000 psi. in case you were wondering i make concrete bridge beams. aci and pci certified quality control

[@johnruth4311]

Where are you? I’ve never heard of a spread.

[@MrKevins39]

@@johnruth4311 Pennsylvania I test concrete for bridge beams PCI Level 2

[@retiredperson4054]

@@johnruth4311 My eleven years as a Federal Construction Representative -- every concrete job was called "A PLACEMENT" you "Placed" concrete where it was intended and NEVER EVER POURED IT! LOL

[@pulporock]

I’ve been asking this question for years, why Concretor’s do not use high range water reducer? Do you choose which brand of water reducer, or the batch plant has whatever on stock. However if you did a compression test and a slump test to show, would have been great. Cheers from Oz.

[@shaneeld9187]

I have almost 20 years experience..your crew is dialed.

[@paoemantega8793]

Another great vid thank you - keep em coming :)

[@tawnyagarrison8311]

I need you out in Southern Oregon! That would make for a great show!

[@revemupchannel4178]

Do you still have promo code for purchasing equipment from Marshalltown?

[@mikeradke9786]

Do you add the water reducer on site)

[@carolcarola9719]

More water means a higher water to cement ratio and therefore reduced strength. More water also means more shrinking.

[@timphillips9882]

Does water reducer help with stamp concrete and will it hurt the color?

[@MikeDayConcrete]

We use it in all our stamped concrete, doesn't affect color.

[@anthony6298]

Hi Mike, Does using a water reducer affect the "set-up" time of the concrete? Or is an accelerator needed? Thanks again for your videos!

[@MikeDayConcrete]

No it doesn't, luke was on this in an hour with the power trowel.

[@mikemckinnis3877]

It almost acts like an accelerator. It will seem really wet and the BAM lol,so you need to keep up with it for sure.

[@rlutzmec4290]

After 40 min or so it will return to its original state like you didn't add a drop of water.

[@anthony6298]

@@MikeDayConcrete Thank you!

[@anthony6298]

@@mikemckinnis3877 Thank you!

[@timbiggam2626]

I. Need to learn a lot more from you.

[@LazyBoyZR1]

Hi Mike, came across your channel recently. Great pour video. I'm interested in all the steps not just the pour. You said below in a comment that Luke was on this in a hour.. can you share that video with commentary as well? Same with the final finishing, and the cuts. With pictures or video when the job is 100% competed. Thanks! Your area you work has a similar climate to me here in Canada. As opposed to a few other concrete channels on KZbin that are warmer drying climate located. Thanks again!

[@aaronbryant8489]

My only question is does the water reducer affect set time?

[@MikeDayConcrete]

Not at all.

[@chaddrews6810]

Great info. I’ve always wondered about how much thinner your material was coming out of the truck! Any issues with colorants, stamping or release agents with the water reducers?

[@MrDejast]

When they made the Autobahn in Germany, they practically hammered it in place. That's how dry it was, also made a portable covering to keep the sun off of it. These roads are still in great condition.

[@randybobandy9828]

Ya it's only 27inches thick... that might help.

[@coltoncyoung]

Hi Mike, I am about to do a pour 20x20 I would like a higher slump, but it's about an hour drive from the concrete plant. Will a reducer work with a retardant, or should that drive not be an issue? I'm not a quick finisher.

[@landonmorel3715]

what kind of gravel do you use in your mix? here in kansas we usually use 3/4” but wondering if going to a smaller gravel would help…

[@MikeDayConcrete]

3/4 here also unless we're stamping, then we use a 3/8

[@landonmorel3715]

@@MikeDayConcrete thanks!

[@jevondavis3840]

Do you know anything about pouring concrete it Texas.

[@jeffsedletzeck3882]

Mike, Thanks for your videos! They helped keep my mind busy during chemotherapy, much appreciated! Do know how many gallons of water they batch at plant per yard for this mix design? Are they mixing a 4" slump then adding the mid range? Happy new year!

[@larrywigmore1243]

Hey Mike, what size stone do you use and is it blue chip or washed stone

[@stanpang62]

Mike day you rock bud shaka from hawaii🤙🤙

[@MikeDayConcrete]

Hi 👋

[@joshkeenan6731]

When you pour at a wet slump like this. I would be concerned about rocks in the mix settling to the bottom. Just a thought

[@isaacutter8231]

Would you use the water reducer for flatwork sidewalks and patios? I work in California

[@toddschroeder1]

I had an old-time inspector once tell me, "If you cant pour and finish concrete at a 4" slump, then you're not a real finisher..." Good guy, but I hated when he showed up to test my concrete. These days, I try to pour around a 6" slump.

[@MikeDayConcrete]

He's probably never poured any concrete in his life. Been there with those guys also.

[@richarddarrell6639]

Mike, I have a detached garage built in the early 1900's with a poured floor that is below grade and has a French floor drain in the middle. When we get significant rains the garage gets 2"-3" of standing water in it. I would like to pour a minimum of 3" of new concrete but I keep being told that it is a bad idea. I watch your videos and see you do it. Can you tell me why I should not. Desperate.

[@dianathomas6262]

I have a question. My driveway apron has been coated with a concrete stain, two coats, and I am looking to remove the concrete stain. Is this possible? I bought a product called Jayco from Home Depot yesterday and I am awaiting the weather conditions to give it a try out. Do you think that will take up concrete stain on my concrete driveway apron? If not, what would you suggest to take up the two coats of concrete stain? I have also heard of grinding it off and putting muriatic acid. Which is best? I have to remove this concrete stain because I got a violation from my HOA. Thank u!

[@MikeDayConcrete]

Stain soaks down into the concrete, probably won't be able to remove it all. I would lightly grind it myself. No need for the acid, that won't remove it. I'm not sure what Jayco is, haven't used that stuff. HD sometimes has a Diamabrush you can rent for lightly sanding, check with them about that.

[@dianathomas6262]

@@MikeDayConcrete I'm so sorry. It's called Jasco.

[@trishtomich7118]

Hey, do you ever use super p with exterior flatwork, like a driveway or patio? Also can you use a power trowel with float blades on it for exterior work, and then broom over it?

[@rmac3027]

How can you steel trowel air entrained concrete? I thought you are only supposed to mag float it.

[@charlsiefine3377]

What was the extension on the shutes? Do the trucks up there carry those or is that something you have made? We would either have to pump that or back the truck around, only 3 chutes here in colorado

[@alwaysapplypressure2477]

Amazing Excellent Video thank you we Appreciate you

[@CybekCusal]

My dad's an old timer bridge builder/engineer in Maine for Cianbro, He never mentioned this stuff to me on our house projects but likely he knows. When I was a kid, we used to pour dry concrete and had to really vibrate it to get out the voids and really had to beat it when finishing it to get the cream. That was 30 years ago though so nice to see science make things easier. Would these chemicals be used in walls too or just for flat work?

[@MikeDayConcrete]

Yes, in walls too.

[@anthony6298]

Hi Mike. Another question comes to mind. Do you ask for a mix with a particular slump prior to the addition of the water reducer? I can't seem to get a decent answer in my area. For some of the concrete suppliers, it's like I am speaking a foreign language. I would imagine I could talk to the technical representative for these products for answers to all these questions. Thank you Mike!

[@andrewmayer204]

Hi Mike I'd like to get a price from you to do my driveway

[@MikeDayConcrete]

I would say yes, it gives it a denser surface which makes it easier to polish.

[@ricos6243]

Mike, you are the man. Thanks👍

[@dowjones9663]

I like to stay between 4 and 6. Depends on what I have going on that evening 😂. I've used products by Arkema and BASF..

[@MikeDayConcrete]

Nice, thanks.

[@joeolson6623]

About an hour away. Give or take depending on the project I have sometimes 4 hours. For a bigger commercial project.

[@DeuceGenius]

im watching mainly watching you guys screed with the 2 man and one man straight edges. i need some more practice with that.