What's a DAB in Climbing?

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In this video we explore what the Dab is not as a dance, but in climbing. There have been times where dabs have really impacted the outcomes of climbing competitions and have been contentious on the validation of outdoor sends.
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[@jackcarsen6247]

5:30 nice repeated:?

[@AlbertOkay]

Forgive me guys I made this video with no sleep LOL

[@evetslon]

@@AlbertOkay It's fine this video is still great is still great

[@Emil4Brain]

@@evetslon lol lol

[@ThePLAYER1888]

@@AlbertOkay how dare you make a mistake.... It's just unacceptable. Nah man, these videos are amazing

[@TheXeeman]

he dabbed, so he has to narrate it again

[@xyrandus]

If a climber dabs on an advertising banner they should disqualify the advertiser instead XD

[@bwood6337]

Really though, either make it a usable part of the course or put it out of the way.

[@QuackLoud]

Or penalize the Course Setter.

[@unknownuser_99]

I dab on them crimps all the time. I can't help if they get in the way.

[@AlbertOkay]

Tell em'!

[@pedantsunited5368]

as a non-climber the idea that a bush caused so much uproar is hilarious

[@bladdnun3016]

As a feminist, I c*nt find anything funny about that.

[@gabrielricardo9267]

@@bladdnun3016 ?

[@bladdnun3016]

@@gabrielricardo9267 Just a drunk shitpost

[@talentlesscommenter1329]

@@bladdnun3016 lmao

[@HuslWusl]

Me too lmao

[@SeanStephensen]

Now, in competition climbing, these dabs are extremely heartbreaking as it often cracks the hopes and dreams of these climbers

[@BigBigFlo]

was looking for that comment

[@kartingbeast93]

Now, in competition climbing, these dabs are extremely heartbreaking as it often cracks the hopes and dreams of these climbers

[@barte4215]

Now, in competition climbing, these dabs are extremely heartbreaking as it often cracks the hopes and dreams of these climbers

[@carlosandleon]

I can imagine it breaks some bones too, the arm movements mean you need to let go of what you're holding.

[@Spyziy]

Now, in competition climbing, these dabs are extremely heartbreaking as it often cracks the hopes and dreams of these climbers

[@johnnguyen-]

I like the way Magnus goes about it, if you just brush your foot against a hold and didn’t actually use it to help you climb the problem then its whatever

[@themurderofcoke]

The number of holds your scrum over on slab routes is countless. They don't help you, if anything they usually hinder you.

[@jackbloodraven]

I remember climbing a few months ago and my belayer yelled Dab. I looked down and said "my hands and arms are kinda busy right now to do that." That's the day I learned a new dab..

[@NickB-zc2kq]

When it's bolts and other holds, yeah, it's a dab. When it's a sign like the black diamond sign, or the start sign to the ifsc comps (I have seen someone taken off the wall for touching the start sign) I call BS, not a dab, there is nothing they can gain by touching them either accidentally or on purpose.

[@gimmepowder]

Those advertising signs need to be out of the way. I'd go as far as to say the same for hangers as well.

[@abc-bca]

There is actually a reason for the rule regarding the advertisements in an IFSC comp. The rules state that every climber is granted equal opportunity, in other words an identical problem. This includes everything on the wall you may hold on to or limiting the space you can touch (like black tape or the advertisements today). It used to be ok to touch the advertisements but then there was a case where a plastic advertisement helped ease a hard move in a boulder when used as a foothold. After a couple of climbers figured that out and used it the sign broke thus changing the boulder. Back than it was a huge technical incident because either a replacement of the exact same dimensions can be mounted or the whole boulder cannot be counted towrds the score (which is also problem if some haven't climbed it yet and subsequently get to burn their energy on fewer problems than the early starters). They eventually found a replacement but to avoid similar problems in the future using the advertisements was then banned. This however led to controversy (e.g in the case of Shaun McColl presented in the video) when an advertisement is placed in a spot required for a natural clmbing move (like the spot you'd place your foot naturally). It is however always a matter of the subjective eye of the judge or crew reviewing the incident, weather soethign was used in a way that the climber gained from using it. When being trained as a judge I was told to let the climber finish the route (or boulder) in such cases and doublecheck the video afterwards for a decision. In case the athelete then askes for the incident to be reviewed and you calling him off half way up is overthrown he already climbed to his max in stead of having to repeat the climb. Summed up te major point is it's fairer to not use the signs e.g. and the rule makes sense but setters need to take more care when mounting the advertisements to not create traps for the climbers.

[@Fred-oz3tw]

The signs are actually pretty thick. U can get something with it. But they should just not put them in the route or should be okay with climbers touching them.

[@pihermoso11]

if there are holes on the walls w/c are not to be used by climbers, why not put grout over it or some sort of filler? that way you eliminate at least 50% of the dabbing intentional or not.... before the smart alec says 'the screws are there so the wall can be disassembled quickly', then just grout/filler over it, you can still remove the screw behind it after the competition is done...

[@tesscrelli783]

@@pihermoso11 Not a climber, but I assume it takes too much time and effort to put grout over every single hole after the route is set (and remove it afterwards) when you could just tell every competitor to not use those holes and have them be responsible people.

[@HouseJug]

Oh my goodness purist need to get overrrrr that bush 🙄

[@MrLevibierens]

But the bush toootally woooooshed him up the route ._.

[@jamis00]

Heard some branches were part of the route.

[@the.Aruarian]

They really just need to leave him alone and branch out some more.

[@dalivanwyngarden3204]

I can understand it in some way because the bush stopped him a little bit swinging out to much/fast. You could argue that without the bush we would have fallen out, but yes, I agree that is stupid.

[@eyescreamcake]

Bushes are aid

[@fufumccuddlypoops5502]

I think unless in very high level competitions calling out dabs is silly and no one should care.

[@bunshine]

i think at the very highest level it should be irrelevant,, shows a lack of proper design from the "routesetters"

[@BerrisGaming]

Yeah agreed. But it's nice to know you didn't technically finish the route because you used another hold. Just stay fair with yourself on that

[@markkealy4417]

@@BerrisGaming there's a pretty big difference between using another hold and just touching one

[@markkNL]

@@markkealy4417 Indeed, I've had some times where I accidentally hurt myself on a hold trying to grab another one too fast, I would not call that helping at all, so if I then still get the route I am not going to disqualify it just because of that.

[@MrThidious]

I would have to say the Ondra "dab" is probably the most famous dab....🤔

[@Rainbowstunting]

And also pretty BS at the same time. The way his foot is angled makes no sense when it comes to putting pressure on that bolt.

[@RADLadio]

Adab ondra

[@DecentGatsby]

The bush dab is ridiculous. What makes me mad is the advertising on the literal routes. Take that trash off or let them smear on it, geez

[@MissTayPlays]

My friend, I've been rock climbing for 2 months now, and I absolutely love it. It's not just a hobby anymore, it's a passion. Your videos have helped me discover more things about this passion. Thanks for making all those videos you make. You deserve every sub you have

[@AlbertOkay]

I'm so happy you started climbing, I think it's one of those activities where you hear people talk about falling in love with it, and you don't understand it until you try it. I hope you're staying healthy and safe and keep crushing it! :)

[@MissTayPlays]

Of course ! I cannot wait for the gyms to open up again :3

[@elerius2]

2:56 That is some shite route setting. Some guy: doesn't matter, it's the ladies route.

[@JorikD]

Route setters should take responsibility and make sure there are no opportunities for dabs in a serious competition.

[@AlbertOkay]

True, but sometimes it's a hard job because there's things that they don't expect to be a problem during forerunning (practicing the climbs before the competition) so accidents like these do happen!

[@themurderofcoke]

@@AlbertOkay they're world class routesetters setting for world class climbers. We should expect better.

[@jamesclark6257]

I actually looked at climbing a route in north Wales where the guidebook suggested that a tree may need to be used to do the route. Not sure where your integrity lies if the guidebook suggests the dab.

[@themurderofcoke]

That's funny, my Alberta Bouldering Guidebook has a similar one, where it rates the routes a V3 if you use the tree for assistance (it's really close to the boulder, hard not to hit your back on) while a V5 without touching the tree as it requires a much trickier move to stay close enough to the wall to avoid the tree. I think that's a better option, basically progression difficulties.

[@GeekClimber]

Nice video as always and congrats on approaching 10k subs!!

[@Cyberdactyl]

No. let's indeed blame the route setters. Crap layout if there ever was. 04:01

[@thewateringwiz7118]

I just want to comment on the first competition Boulder you show. Great example but the problem here is the really badly designed problem.

[@Ferdi2724]

you deserve way more than 10k!! love the content

[@boomknight1015]

If over half of the people dab when doing a bolder. That bolder shouldn't count. It's clearly a bad bolder. In fact from their ankle they can't see the black tape and had no way of remembering that it wraps around

[@DeathlyDiJ]

If I touch anything thats part of another problem and still send, I just feel as if I've cheated. I don't mind it if others dab though.

[@bunshine]

dabs should be a part of the competition, why dont they build the courses around them?? if certain holds are "special" and shouldnt be allowed, then why would they even be there accidentally?

[@shaneh7519]

I’m a low level climber but I just go based off of if I think I would have still been able to complete it without that dab. If yes than I’m cool with a little touch

[@joshrack551]

Great video as always, thanks. In competitive trials riding dabs are permitted but cause penalty points. Not suggesting it for climbing, but it's interesting to compare. If you've not seen trials riding id certainly recommend checking it out, it's highly entertaining and really quite similar to climbing, just on a weird motorbike. A search for FIM x-trial should get you going.

[@yishaiwhite9730]

I'm a very good member of my local gym because I make sure to call out other people when they accidentally dab when climbing for fun (:

[@Fred-oz3tw]

Haha lol

[@themurderofcoke]

Is that better or worse than being the beta sprayer that can't climb any of the betas they suggest?

[@t.m.4808]

love the CLG dab reference😂

[@oliverhall4714]

I'm sure BD love having there athlete getting in trouble for touching there banner. I dont understand how using bold holes and cracks in the panels is legal but that's not. They need to make that a sticker.

[@eyescreamcake]

I bet if we threatened to boycott companies that get dabbed they would make the signs less dabbable

[@yetanotherjohn]

great video! PS: the term "dab" clearly comes from Trails Riding, as with off-road motorcycles, where touching a foot to the ground anywhere on the course is called a "dab" and costs a point.

[@WillTheFrozen]

bad route setting. no boulder would have no other side.

[@margueritepankey2514]

I feel like it shouldn’t count against you if you don’t put weight on it and therefore use it to advance you. Thoughts?

[@themurderofcoke]

Pretty much anyone reasonable agrees. Anyone who's climbed slab knows how easy it is to scrum up and over a hold that isn't yours, and how much that can hinder you. Imagine doing a pistol squat and having your toe catch something as you try to push up - makes it just that much harder for what is already a really hard move for most people. You also don't see that outside, so it's not a skill you can expect climber's to develop naturally making it even less reasonable to me.

[@iliakatster]

I'd say if the banner is in a place that someone can push off on it, then it shouldn't be a dab. They have a whole massive wall to put those banners on, if you put it where the climbers might put their feet, thats the organizers bad.

[@xskhoo91]

Not bash the route setters? That’s a fucking bad mistake, and may have affected the overall performance of the women’s bouldering results.

[@bizmonkey007]

At 2:00, that’s just a horribly planned route

[@mayawitters]

In that first competition clip, that's just bad setting. The completely natural balancing thing to do for the final hold is to place your foot where all the climbers did. It's just silly to put tape in such a place, especially since it's the finish - all the setters are doing is make the finish awkward and uncomfortable.

[@edmunek]

I think you have recorded same phrase twice and did not edit :) 7:18 to 7:28

[@proximity8981]

Also at 5:25

[@garywoods1974]

We miss climbing with you Albert and calling out all your dabs! 😉

[@AlbertOkay]

I miss you too...I'LL COME BACK AND CLIMB WITH YOU GUYS SOMEDAY!!!

[@chsovi7164]

If more than one person makes the same mistake, it should be considered the routesetter's fault not the climber's

[@inazuma3gou]

my climbing gym's motto is "If you are not cheating, you are not trying hard enough."

[@NGorso1]

To be honest, I find it quite annoying when you have a different colored part where just the wall(not even a block) being there would have helped to stabilize

[@russell2952]

If climbers regularly go out of bounds it's entirely the routesetter's fault.

[@prinnydood3095]

how i see it...if some one dab like that make ur coarse better...like putting the metal clip on the other side of the wall and cord though so there not a ledge.

[@MsLinaTina]

I can understand the first example. Try this hard climb, outside the tape is out of bounds. Makes sense, keeps the challenge the same for everyone. I don't understand the second example as being wrong. Here are a bunch of things to grab on to for your climb use which ever you want. What does it matter if you use it for a strong hold point, or just use it for a moment? I'm not a climber, am I missing something here?

[@mjstewmoss5655]

Glitch in the matrix at 5:25

[@GeekyGaia]

I actually dabbed while bouldering yesterday, when trying to reposition my foot my hand slipped and I fell, nearly hitting my face against the wall. I knew immediately I messed up but it made me all the more determined to try again, this is why I have become so addicted to climbing the determination is fierce. I am also still a beginner but I hope to better my technic as I continue into this sport

[@Duraxy]

Okay that Tape around the corner on the first competition example is just weird design

[@patrickfitzgerald6073]

Really interesting video! It would be cool to see what other youtube climbers think. Magnus (at least in boldering for fun) counts the send if touching another hold didn't help you.

[@jhyland87]

It does seem silly that you can use the seams in the walls, but you cant touch the logo - which i think is just paint? (eg: 4:30)

[@AlbertOkay]

It's one of those "it is what it is" kind of rules I guess

[@StaggerLee68]

It's a kind of really strong hash and it's hard to climb that stoned. We couldn't even get our shoes on. I can't imagine dabbing and competing, that's hard core.

[@MrCmon113]

The brush is part of the boulder.

[@Ricardo8388]

Tbh that tape there is just bad design. People cant see it..

[@gimmepowder]

The athletes get to preview the problems. Also it's a continuation of the tape that is more visible.

[@wayedk1040]

please let that shit be in 2015

[@thehoffmanns3823]

Wish I could contribute as being a new subscriber to get you to 10k but i’ve already been subscribed for quite a while, still liking and commenting for the algorithm.

[@YnseSchaap]

Been climbing for 25 years.........first time I hear of this DAB 😁

[@wilihey1425]

i have no idea why i love watching climbing so much, i tried it and was just way too scared of the rope breaking maybe i should try again been a while, your channel is really entertaining and nice to me keep it up

[@Bloxeh]

Maybe try bouldering first? I was pretty scared even while bouldering (being 3-4m up was nothing I was used to), but the fear just goes down over time as the confidence increases. I also did lots of training in jumping down.

[@wilihey1425]

@@Bloxeh i might try doing something like that, i've been doing a lot more things overtime like mountain biking etc

[@Bloxeh]

@@wilihey1425 Oh, that's cool! I started watching Sam Pilgrim videos and feeling the itch to try mountain biking too, but I'd probably hurt myself. I stick with bouldering for now 👍

[@wilihey1425]

@@Bloxeh i think its a really amazing sport climbing too etc, sport really makes you happy and more stable in your day to day life, good luck on everything friend and stay safe

[@Bloxeh]

@@wilihey1425 That's true! I'm happy I finally found my way to sport. All the best for you!

[@mp2863]

While I agree with honesty and integrity being appropriate for recreational climbing, in high level competition there needs to be a better system. Does anyone know how the Olympics were going to handle it? These kinds of issues can really sour a competition.

[@AlbertOkay]

So far as I know I think they're going to go by similar of not the same rules as IFSC has created. It'll still be strict, but I think they're going to look ahead of time to prevent posters and bolts from cutting Olympic dreams short

[@themurderofcoke]

Two years later we know they'll handle it so poorly they'll grade boulderers on speed climbing ability.

[@mp2863]

@@themurderofcoke lol yep, this issue paled in comparison to the bigger much more meaningful complaints

[@maxh4717]

lol at 5.27 it repeats itself. but great video

[@AlbertOkay]

Whoops

[@manamemajeff6283]

Hey, your videos alone made me interested in rock climbing. You're doin a great job my man.

[@Cheesus-Sliced]

some of those comp routes beg the question... why tf are there advertisements and shit ON THE ROUTE? put them further away so theres no chance they invalidate the climb smh. advertising defeating the purpose of the sport...

[@harrietramos8691]

The enchanting aries spontaneously disagree because man rhetorically bury notwithstanding a nippy shelf. handy, adhesive debtor

[@juttingforrest6184]

I just subscribed during this video. If you make a Q & A video I will unsubscribe. Your move, Albert

[@ChrisHaileyTrainHardDiveEasy]

I enjoyed the painter analogy 😃 Great vid, as always Albert.

[@afailable]

That pink climb around 3 minutes was so poorly constructed... The setters should be ashamed

[@benwhiley9680]

Yeah, the accidental dab in lead comp is brutal. You're totally fucked. At least in boulder you get to try again...

[@dwillemscott]

Really digging your videos! Educational and entertaining.

[@KonKonParty]

I was waiting for the outro song :(

[@joshuajoshua7671]

Same here 🤣🤣🤣

[@hamildub]

Not a dab but what about the tendency I've seen for climbers to use other holds to get into the starting position. The way learned is you only get the start hold(s) + feet

[@AlbertOkay]

In competition that wouldn't be allowed, but I guess if it's in a gym it's up to the climber's diligence to determine if it's a dab or not!

[@notapplicable7292]

The worst is when you try to kick the wall and hit a hold doing the same thing you mean't to do but invalidating the climb

[@felix3821]

your content is truly amazing ! keep it up boi !

[@aaronsmith6632]

That's when ya yell, "Dab Gommit!"

[@allezvenga7617]

Thanks for your sharing 👍

[@LeonYuL]

climbing is climbing, any solution can be part of a skill set

[@戴庆明]

So DAB is like a shit on the road,don’t step on it?

[@tomascosta9237]

DAB - Dyno All Boulders

[@remixmas]

Dabbing, or the dab, is a simple gesture in which a person drops their head into the bent crook of a slanted, upwardly angled arm, while raising the opposite arm out straight in a parallel direction. This appeared in the full length video of Michael Jackson’s Smooth Criminal at 8 mins 23 seconds though Michael is rarely credited with its creation. Since 2015, dabbing has been used as a gesture of triumph or playfulness, becoming a youthful fad and Internet meme.[1] The move looks similar to someone sneezing into the crook of their elbow.

[@aiRCoft]

5:25 + 5:34

[@Originalxlander]

I think if you're climbing and can climb your climbing. I'm disabled now so I live through others. What you are calling dab I call natural instincts

[@maya-amf3325]

Yeah.... In Ondra's case I don't think any DAB actually cracked his hopes and dreams but for less reknown athletes I can see that being very significant. They should have other opportunities though.

[@johndoe920]

honestly? If touching another hold gives you no advantage over just smearing the wall, what's the point. Or if your foot brushes over the ground in a low altitude dyno, it doesn't help you in any way, if anything it can actually pull you off the wall by catching your momentum, so why would it be so bad?

[@andypughtube]

I wonder if the word "dab" is borrowed from motorcycle trials riding? (See for example the scoring rules here: kingphiliptrailriders.com/PDF_files/CHEKRULE6.pdf ) It seems to be pretty much the exact same meaning. And I think that trials riding significantly predates _competitive_ bouldering.

[@AlbertOkay]

Dang that's interesting. I'll look into it!

[@interestedinstuff]

I tend to use holds on purpose, so I know if I've used something I shouldn't. I usually just drop off the climb at that point. Where someone watching sees my foot get purchase on a hold I shouldn't use, they'll definitely tell me, and I agree with them. I'll never do competition, but I like the idea that I've climbed a route properly. Clean start, not a jump assist, get to the top and touch it stable. I have a rule that if I haven't climbed it twice, then I can't say I can climb it. I hate fluking a climb.

[@TheValinov]

mhhh dabing - another point on the list of disadvantages when you are tall :D

[@gugupang]

That 2015 Toronto WC was the worst. It was so stupid and made me so mad.

[@bred8080]

i loved the vid

[@TehAuroraWolf]

I have dabbed before many times as an intermediate climber, and I do feel like doing it as an accident is fine, and it helps make me more conscious of what my whole body is doing and be able to control my movements a lot better. Knowing that I have dabbed on routes whether for fun or for comp is good in the end because it gives me the incentive to really focus on my problem areas where I had to use an additional hold to send a route.

[@NeuroArrow]

Subscribed

[@patrickfitzgerald6073]

I'm sorry the squidward one misses out hugely without the sound.

[@micro.7142]

The commentator sounds like Preston plays

[@turkeyphant]

Brutal. Cracks the hopes and dreams twice.

[@anthonyfox9328]

dabbing rn

[@germancarrasco2028]

dab is bad...

[@thecrazyandthewild]

Thank you, Albert! Have an amazing day, man!

[@jonkrause6714]

Congrats on 10K! 👏🤩 Funny mention of other “dab”-that thingy move across your chest/face. 😂 I think your statement is fair that you have to be honest to yourself about “climbing dabs”. Having experienced being a U.S.A. Climbing judge for Youth ABS Regionals, it’s heartbreaking to tell a young climber they have to do it again bcoz of an unintentional dab that I know did not help in the original send. Perhaps the best way to avoid it is not have climbing zone tape, compact comp walls, or have marketing banners in sport climbing? The rules were set up for a reason, but perhaps a review board should be considered for practicality of latitude, aka, dual judge assessment? I had a second judge with me, since he was more experienced and we conferred about dabs; we both agreed some are blatant cheats some are negligible/inadvertent. 🧐

[@blakemartin9054]

the brush adding assistance? the bait is strong....

[@hpekristiansen]

I like to think they are coughing

[@AlbertOkay]

*cough* dab

[@Cloudensation]

Keep these awesome videos coming!!!

[@-masteryoda]

First, dab on dem haters

[@WillToNihilsm]

Rock climbers are all 15 years old

[@trevzeee]

Dabbing at comps suck :/

[@SHOOPWOOOP]

be sure to DAB ON THE HATERS