What's the single best table saw blade?

[@JonnyDIY]

🎵 Flat bottom blades, you make the sawing world go round 😆👍

[@timothyrigg1497]

F.Y.I. - For those of you wanting to get into woodworking I just wanted to say I am very pleased with Steve's woodworking program and helpful staff. Just before the pandemic I signed up for his Weekend Workshop to setup my own workshop. His plans are excellent and extremely practical. Also Steve's large collection of free instructional video's, like this one, are excellent.

[@SteveRamsey]

Well thanks Timothy! I really appreciate that! 👍👊

[@94233psu399154112333]

Ditto.

[@philwoodard5439]

Completely agree! Been amazing what I have learned and built for family and friends. Thanks Steve!

[@sbales31]

I agree with Timothy. Last year, I signed up for the course as well. Before this I had never (never, I tell you) made anything. I didn't have hardly any of the tools. But I completed the course and can say I feel confident in moving forward with my new hobby. Thanks Steve!

[@SecondWindWorkshop]

Agreed! Built a couple RIOs, a couple Flip-Top carts and the lumber racks already. Great course!

[@maximflor]

Finally, complete blades explanation, simple and efficient. Thanks again Steve.

[@matchstickdesignco]

It's true, there are so many different types of blades to choose from. For me, the choice is simple, though: I use ONLY the round ones with teeth. 🤣🤣🤣

[@CorbinMusso88]

That’s how I chose a spouse.

[@robertcortright]

@@CorbinMusso88 👌

[@cameronknowles6267]

Do you use the ones that are metal to

[@matchstickdesignco]

@@cameronknowles6267 Occasionally, yes.🤣

[@wiseoldfool]

@@CorbinMusso88 lmao

[@montanaflyer1147]

Awesome, simplistic view of blade types. Really enjoyed the blade pitch definitions. But maybe another thing that should have been noted is how they are used and maintained. Most people buy new blades when their perfectly good blade only needs cleaning. Usually due to pushing too hard or cutting too much pitchwood (pine, etc.). A well maintained blade will last much longer than a dirty and abused blade, saving even more.

[@christianrestifo4448]

I agree with your general assessment, but I have found one personal exception to the rule. For me, something like a Freud glue line rip blade is really good when you're going to be doing some edge glue ups that you don't want to spend a lot of time making sure are tight. Just rip and go. Obviously, there's a trade off in terms of time spent changing the blade (and cost of blade), but when edge gluing long (say, >4') boards, it's worth it for me.....especially if you don't have a floor mounted jointer.

[@wordworking_awv]

Just when you thought Friday couldn't get better, another great video from Steve

[@stiraf5257]

Thank you for this common sense approach! Especially the "lab tested" differences. It's like "the best jigsaw"; it just depends so much more on the individual ability than the lab-tested quality of the tool.

[@smittery]

Ah! I consider myself a student much more than a teacher, but feel like I have something relevant to say here. First, I have found from helping other people that many less experienced woodworkers who are frustrated with the performance of their tablesaw often don't have it set up right. They get a contractor style used or from a big box store, and they never check to make sure that their miter slots are parallel to their blade. Stumpy nubs has some great info on this, so before you throw out the blade, check your alignment. Second, cleaning your blades DOES help more often than not. Simple green and a bucket lid, doesn't have to be crazy. Third, a big thick boi like Forrest or Ridge Carbide can produce a pretty amazing finish on a well aligned saw. When I first saw it I was amazed. I went in with high expectations and they blew my mind out of the water. Fourth, unfortunately, if you have a smaller, more available tablesaw, putting a .125in thick blade on there probably isn't the best use of your limited horsepower. Many inexperienced woodworkers love the idea of thin kerf, but mostly to preserve material, which is typically a hilariously small benefit compared to that it doesn't require nearly as much power. And fifth, the configuration I personally liked, and that I recommend to all inexperienced woodworkers, is a decent thin kerf blade and some 4in blade stabilizers. You go down to ~2 5/8in depth of cut, but you can take them off when you need more, and honestly were you really using more than that? In return you get a nice thin easy-to-cut kerf, maximum material preservation, and comparable performance to the blades that cost as much as your saw does. Those stabilizers will also be usable far and away into your hobby, they aren't suddenly moot if you get a bigger saw. For cheap, high quality blades I buy diablo if I'm in a hurry, but if I've got time I would buy ITC orange blades from Taylor toolworks. Very good, modestly priced.

[@folby]

I have a combo blade and a flat-bottom-groove blade and I find myself reaching for any other with less and less frequency. but my father also convinced me that 'it isn't going in the [redacted] smithsonian" is a good general rule and as such having the exact right blade probably isn't all that crucial.

[@jayelwin]

The flat tooth on the combo makes it the winner in my mind because you can make grooves and dadoes and have them be smooth inside.

[@ChrisProsserZ06]

Frankly I use an 80T crosscut blade for everything and have never had a problem. I'll trade going a little slower for a sanded like finish on the cut surface and less tear out.

[@stephendonathan6782]

I agree with the brand and the 40 tooth blade. I've tried many different brands and Diablo has been best hands down.

[@mystic9696]

I would love to hear what the main difference is between these types of blades (which you can buy at the local home center) and the more expensive ones around $100+ dollars, for instance amana, forrest, frued industrial. Do these high end blades really cut better than the more affordable options to justify the cost.

[@DCgamer723]

For years I've used rip cut (24t) blades in my circular saw because I use them to break down sheet good to rough dimensions, so speed is best. I use the combo blade (40t) blade in my table saw, and a crosscut (60 or 80t) in my mitre saw. Have gotten the best results doing it this way. Also Diablo make the the best blades I have used and remember to clean you blades at least once a year, more if you use your saw more.

[@redguru1]

Yes! Clean your blades. Especially if you're cutting a lot of green wood.

[@Bob.Silverstein]

I had been using one of the Diablo combo blades, and recently (after reading some forum comments, and talking with a sales person) decided to update to dedicated rip cut and crosscut blades. After seeing this video, I now question whether that was really necessary, or if I fell into the trap of "need more tools!" That said, I think I am still okay with this idea of swapping blades for a few reasons: 1. Swapping blades for different cuts will hopefully put me in a mindset of "slowing down" and thinking about each step of a process, rather than just plowing through a whole bunch of steps (which is when errors or injury could occur). 2. Swapping blades gives one a good opportunity to inspect the blade, clean the blade and the setup, and just make sure I've always got my eye on the everything. If one *never* changed blades, it would be easy to ignore what is happening under the throat plate. 3. Probably will get more life out of both blades, if swapping, than out of a single blade, for the reasons Steve noted. So... that's that :)

[@Sigmund1924]

That’s some solid advice. Thanks 👍

[@kyleolson8977]

While I don't feel the need to have an 80t crosscut blade in the table saw, I certainly think the rip blade is worth using for any long or deep rips. If you've spent big bucks on hardwood, it's worth making a blade switch to cut it more cleanly. With a good table saw it won't take long to switch the blade once you're used to it. I find changing the blade to be trivial on my SawStop. It was a bigger hurdle to realize it wasn't a big deal to change the blade. Even switching to and from a Dado set isn't so tough except for lining up the other brake.

[@sfan2767]

I bought a rip blade for turning some ugly but free 2x12s into 2x4 for random usage and wish I'd bought the blade sooner for ripping 2x4s in half, which I do a decent amount for household projects where 2x4 is overkill. My favorite use is supports for fruit laden tree branches where the ripped 2x4 is much easier, and a pair of them gives me simple height adjustment.

[@BlakePizzey]

Agreed! I think a nice rip blade is needed for thick hardwoods.

[@SteveFairfield]

Your timing with this video is perfect. I’ve been wondering what blade would work best for me, and your description of FTB and ATB was something I didn’t know about. Thanks!

[@TheRealGOTdurrrred]

Great video. I still prefer cross cut and ripping blades when I need a perfect cut though. "Near perfect" is usually okay most of the time. Edit: Actually I've been using general purpose blades for a few projects and I noticed I get way smoother rip cuts. And cross cuts aren't that bad. I'm really liking general purpose blades now.

[@nicholastinling1022]

It's worth mentioning that rip blades have another feature that can be beneficial. They are thinner, and if you are re-sawing with a table saw, your material savings might be important.

[@Maxid1]

I've been woodworking for well over 50 years. I find that the best saw blades are the round ones.

[@troywalker8078]

Agree! The square ones are terrible!

[@doubledarefan]

@@troywalker8078 Yes! The triangular ones are worse! The pentagonal ones are not mush better. The hexagonal ones are still not the best.

[@MeansWoodshop]

I’ve been using a combination blade pretty much since I started woodworking and only start to get a worse quality cut when I continue to use it well beyond its productive life.

[@MrFordjd]

Awesome. I suspect for most of us we’d rather get a cut done than spend time switching blades 😅 (even if it just takes a few seconds). I’ve been making jigs with oak plywood because that’s all the big box stores had when I bought it and my rip cut blade tears out horribly! Will pick up a GP for my lazy self to set and forget 👍

[@rbhillner]

Great information Steve. I use a general-purpose blade and feel no reason to but or use anything else.

[@ErictheHalf_bee]

One Blade to rule them all, One Blade to find them; One Blade to bring them all and in the woodshop bind them.

[@fritz4345]

I learned something, thank you. And know I am wondering how to know when to get a new blade?

[@MCsCreations]

Awesome tips, Steve! Thanks a bunch! 😊 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@FixitFingers]

Great video Steve, even by your standards this is a particularly well scripted and chosen topic hitting on an area that hasn't been done to death of great use to the hobby woodworker.

[@gacwac]

Can you please also give some checklist on when the blade needs to be sharpenned/replaced?

[@stevenrayhoward]

Hi Steve... What become of the chess board that started this journey? (Just curious) I'm thinking a mini-replica (close, with the fancy side against the wall) wood (would) might have an interesting life. Cheers, Steve (Woodprobie)

[@frogjmon]

I have a rip blade and a combo blade. Its more work in changing out blades often, but it minimizes wear and tear on each blade. I also primarily purchase my wood in a rough cut format, and tend to make several rip cuts in the process of preparing my lumber for use.

[@skulliec.l.6703]

My wife and I watch your videos everynight. just started woodworking a few weeks ago, your videos have helped A lot. We thanks you.

[@DCgamer723]

Good to hear, I have done the same and while you may not build every project, each one has taught me ways of doing certain tasks, or given me ideas for things to incorperate into other projects

[@TerraBritannia]

Thanks very much for the info Steve. 👍 I'm hoping to begin woodworking this summer as I have a big(ish) birthday coming up and my wife has seen me watching your KZbin videos. She doesn't miss much! I have expressed my concerns about not having enough space for a Mitre saw and a Table saw in our 12 x 8 shed (which we share), but we'll see how we get on. Any tips on setting up in a small space would be most welcome. All the best, Andy in North Yorkshire 👍

[@oldman719]

I enjoyed this video and have enjoyed all your videos for quite some time. I downloaded your tool list but didn't see the handy crosscut miter fence. Do you have a link to that? I make my own crosscut sleds but they can take up a lot of room. Thank you and keep the videos coming.

[@rickjablonski9669]

Frankly, a QUALITY 24t ripping blade will handle just about everything you could ask of it. I prefer Ridge Carbide and Leitz. I have the Diablo combo blade you recommend, and my Ridge Carbide surpasses it in every single cut. Rips, crosscuts, hardwood, plywood, mdf, etc. The Ridge blade produces a much better quality. A nice bonus is most 24t ripping blades have a flat bottom. Since getting the Ridge blade, I haven't used the Diablo a single time. If you're going for big box store, Diablo are OK disposable blade. But you'd be just as happy with a Hercules blade from Harbor freight. I've used both that and the Diablo, and there's no real discernible difference.

[@Bekim8310]

Thanks Steve for the info. I am about to order a new table saw for myself and wanted to know which saw blade is best for me. I think I’ll go with the Combo one!

[@JFKreations]

One Blade to rule them all, One Blade to dice them, One Blade to cut them all and in the workshop slice them.

[@woodshopnerdery]

Great discussion. As a hobbyist I can make most of my cuts with a general purpose blade, including rips up to about 1.5 - 2 inches. In seems the general purpose does much better on crosscuts and sheet goods as compared to a combination blade. But when ripping thicker stock the general purpose struggles and the combination blade shines. However the combination blades does just a little worse on sheet goods and cross cuts. All this assumes the table saw fence and miter slots are properly aligned, if not no blade will perform well. The choice may come down to whether or not you own a band saw. Bandsaws are fantastic for ripping even thick stock and in my opinion safer. I now rip on the band saw and clean up on the jointer to table saw. So for me, the general purpose blade is ideal and I only pull out the combination blade is rare cases.

[@Belizzle]

Since my table saw can't take a dado stack, I find that flat tooth to be indispensable in terms of a single blade to leave on the saw to cover me generally.

[@jimshaw1294]

If I had only one blade, it would be a Freud Premiere Fusion Next Generation general purpose 10" 40T. Hands down the best all-'round blade I've ever used. And I've tried a bunch.

[@ObsessiveAboutCats]

"that slight edge they need" - har har har. I see what you did there. Nice video. I bought a glue line Freud rip blade for a very fancy project a while back (I don't have a jointer) and was very pleased with it.

[@ryancousins]

Fantastic breakdown of different blade types. One of the best I’ve seen. Very straightforward but still full of good detail. Thank you Steve for always sharing your practical approach. I love other channels too but it’s nice to have this to counter some of the more bourgeois guys out there.

[@theswime945]

Couldn't agree more. Gave me the confidence to experiment cutting unusual shell depths. Cheers.

[@mrkattm]

Hard to go wrong with the Ridge Carbide SUPER COMBO BLADE, it is arguably the best blade available, I have 2 that picked up from the traveling wood show and I alternate them between sharpening's

[@troyladoux1953]

I'd go with the combination blade because of the included flat top raker for dados.

[@AK_Woodworks]

Hello Steve. I gotta say that i find your videos very informing. I think I watched all of your videos to date. But having said that....I really miss your project videos. Now you have focused this channel only on shorts and tutorials with no build content. I miss your builds. Are those kind of videos coming back or have you switched to your paying sites all together to share your knowledge and wits? Hope you read this and hello all the way from Slovenia - Europe.

[@hansangb]

You HERETIC! How else am I going to waste money buying blades i don't need! HOW DARE YOU!! 🤣

[@job38four10]

Explained very good, I also just want one blade does all because I dont work with wood all the time, changing blades is a PITA, thanks for posting........

[@andrewavellino6427]

I'm a pretty intermediate woodworker and know all about the different cuts and types of blade and what you should use for cross cutting or ripping etc, but I still learned something from this video and enjoyed watching it. I learned the angle of the teeth for the blades that I use most, had no idea a Diablo GP 40 tooth has a higher 30° angle or the 15° combo angle. Personally I keep the higher count teeth in my miter saw and use a 24 tooth ripping for thick 12/4 exotic hardwoods,but everything else I use a 40t, and if I need a flat bottom I just use a dado stack.

[@ipick4fun27]

I used one of those on a colleague's saw, it was amazing. It's like hot knife thru butter. I need to make flat bottom occasionally, so my choice was dictated. So combo is best for weekend woodworker like me. Just in case I need to rip a lot of stuff, I can always put back on the 24-tooth blade that comes with the saw. It has 0 miles on it. Changing out saw blade on my saw was not as bad as the old ones. Since it uses ACME thread, it comes off pretty easily and both blade alignments were near perfect (Diablo has better flatness).

[@andrewv5104]

Only thing I'd add to this, if a person starts cutting thicker harder woods like 1.5" thick hard maple a general purpose blade is goign to struggle with the rip cuts.

[@37south47]

I’m just as confused as when I started watching! One blade for all my cutting needs AND I can cut spline grooves. Which blade??? Don’t I need a square toothed blade for splines?

[@woodworksbygrampies1284]

Hola! 🖐 Thanks for the excellent and detailed explanation. You are right that one can easily get saturated and overwhelmed with data and information. Your videos and this one included, help simplify the subject you discuss. Even though blades are not the biggest investment in the shop, it's probably one of the most used and most relied upon for a good finished product. Thanks for the video, hope to see many more in the future. Take care and have a good one, Adios! 👊

[@FBMRR]

GREAT info steve. How do you know when to replace a saw blade?

[@MarceloFreitas70]

Hi, Steve. I didn't imagine such science on this subject. Even some professional woodworkers I know can tell the difference between saw blades with this detail level. That's a very important information to make nice and safety cuts. Thank you for sharing and have a nice day.

[@TimMJN]

Question! What are the squiggly laser-cut lines for? Every blade seems to have them. Also, the question mark-shaped cuts between groups of teeth?

[@markmcintire3401]

Fine video. But don’t you think for the diyer should start with a good combo blade because of the fbt. Every beginner always want to do a dado cut.

[@SteveRamsey]

Good point, but I don't think dados require an absolutely flat bottom.

[@htown860]

Hey Steve. Love your channel! Wonder if you have any input on this topic as it applies to miter saw blades. Thanks!

[@martingo2680]

20 years of woodworking. This man speaks the truth.

[@Sigmund1924]

2 years of woodworking. Seems like a nice guy. He probably speaks the truth. 😂

[@FMunixxx]

This might depend on the thickness of the material you're ripping. Will a Hi-ATB blade (general purpose) really rip 2x construction material better than a ATBR blade (combination)?

[@profcah]

Great video Steve. Explained this confusing subject extremely well!

[@simonvaughannikon]

Time to renew my table saw blade. Thanks Steve. Great advice from the maestro!

[@irishRocker1]

Is there an equivalent part number as the D1040X for 250mm? Some table saws that are 250mm such as the DWE7492 are will have issues with 10"/254mm blades.

[@Maxid1]

There is one blade to rule them all: The Hattori Hanzo Katana

[@SwapnilBhartiya]

To simplify aren't more blades better than fewer blades for quality and fast cuts, but thin kerf may help even more?

[@kennethholmes9315]

I would never just use one blade. Each blade has a specific purpose. There are quite a few blades not mentioned in this video. Triple chip is one of them. I would suggest using five blade’s. A 60 tooth triple chip blade used for high pressure laminate and particle board , 24 tooth rip blade used to rip 3/4” hardwood or thicker , 40 tooth high rake atb for cross cutting , 40 tooth flat top for some dado’s and rabbits, and a 50 tooth rip for cutting 3/4” or thinner hardwood.. there are many more blades for many other uses. Getting industrial blades can also be more cost effective in the long run. They have more carbide and can also be sharpened many more times than your Home Depot special. They are also thicker and have less vibration in the cut. FYI cleaning them prolongs the blades.

[@timothycurtis7558]

The Freud/Diablo website says that the D 1050 X combination blade has all ABT teeth. Have they changed the design?

[@johnnyboy3563]

I have a jobsite saw, dewalt DWE7485. It doesn't support datto stacks, so I have to clean up all my grooves because I currently have a GP blade on it with an ATB. So using a combo blade with a raker will solve this?

[@bijan4727]

Hi. Do you get perfect 90 degrees cut with your machine? I have a Dewalt 8 1/4 table saw and I get between 89.3 and 89.6 degrees on my material. What am I doing wrong ? Please advise.

[@D-OveRMinD]

I've been watching you for a decade. Yet another informative video.

[@glipzcom]

Just love your clean easy to digest info. I have been using tools and a table saw my whole life, very very infrequently, and never knew what blade differences meant.

[@rosi6144]

Nice video. I have a question: Is it useful or overkill to have 2 circular saws, on with a special blade for ripping and one with a special blade for crosscutting, because i don't like swapping blades, making the circular saw screw dull. Hope to hear from you soon. Many thanks in advance

[@rogertulk8607]

I use only Diablo blades for fine work. For construction type work I have blades that came with the saw or given to me by friends. The first time I used a Diablo blade, I stopped the saw just after I began the cut because the blade didnt slow down. I thought something was wrong.

[@matthewnisbett4058]

I bought a Diablo 254mm 10" 40 Teeth General Purpose blade and it started flexing upto 5mm as soon as I started the saw. All other blades seem fine???

[@PSjustanormalguy]

Steve what about the shorts version? Chop 90% of the content and talk 25% faster to get 1000x more views. PS. I'm old so I prefer the "long" version 😃

[@epeiusgarage]

Love your videos! Great info.

[@executive]

combo blades will burn out your motor quicker for ripping. Especially thick material.

[@JonnyDIY]

i dont even own a table saw

[@JonnyDIY]

Great info tho Steve! Ill make sure to get a GP blade when I get my Sawstop!

[@suit1337]

same rules apply if you use a track saw or a regular circular saw ;)

[@djozera]

i have a 3hp bench saw, so should i use one of those combo blades those full kerf or thin kerf? sorry for the english, bad writing...i'm from brazil.

[@ivobrick7401]

Hello, well i want to ask what kind of oil i have to use on a table where will be food prepared. I really need to sand some scratches and re-adjust whole product. Lacquer is no go, teak oil? - im not sure - manual does not mention it, what then? olive or sunflower? I dont mind redo it after a year, but i dont want to be poisoned by my mistake :O Thanks anyone who knows..

[@redguru1]

Wonderful explanation of table saw blades! One of my favourite videos from you this year.

[@braxillstation2561]

I want to take your online but I saw you said it's for not so beginners. I'm completely new to Woodworking but it's my dreams to build. Abby advice on classes U can take for someone just starting ?

[@Al3j4E]

Man, I'm sorry to ask this, but I have a problem and I hope you can help me. I have a bread kneading board and it haven't seen much love last year, even has cat steps marked on it, and I need to clean and sanitize it, but the problem is the board it´s cured with oil, olive oil. I tryed to sand paper it, but I believe I made it worse, can you see any solution. I appreciate your in put, you look like someone who knows this stuffs.

[@megdahlin1118]

Question-Can a full kerf blade be used on a Milwaukee M18 table saw? Would like to know your thoughts on this.

[@lwh7301]

My experience with 40 teeth blades for crosscutting is way too rough.

[@cindyorlopp5708]

Try using 7 1/2 inch blade on table saw/ works good on any stock under 1 1/2 inch thick stock you get half the saw dust/ there half the price/ and a lot less wear and On table saw arbor and motor . The cutt is even better

[@s.n.7791]

I have a 10" Hitachi table saw and I want to change the factory the 40t blade that came with it. I only use the saw here and there,. which blade do you suggest for me? thanks in advance.

[@nicolasmahdavian1793]

Videos like this one is why I keep coming back to your channel. Thanks Steve.

[@DaraHijazi]

Steve, the best and simplest blades types video I ever see!! As always, thank you 👍🏻

[@cookiescoop6065]

Great information thanks for sharing ✌️💪💪

[@josy9767]

What Materials can you cut with that Kind of Plate ? All except Metal and Aluminium ?

[@jamescanon34]

I need help I'm making a shelf but the wood is a 3/4 by 6 by 28" long and their warped cupwise how do I flatten that

[@54mgtf22]

I love Diablo blades. Great job 👍

[@StuartGeers]

Basically I only run a rip blade when I'm ripping thick stock. Otherwise combo blade all day (just keep it clean)

[@timothycurtis7558]

I just contacted Diablo and they said the D 1050 X no longer has a raker tooth.

[@gregpedersen3396]

You break this down so much I believe you're talking to the people that should never be around a saw blade

[@suit1337]

to my expierience in most applications it does not matter what blade you use - but if you are cutting laminates or very woods like oak, you can can avoid burn marks more easy with the right blade - and on laminates or melamine coated particle boards you can cut 0.5 mm inreverse to score the surface and then cut in the right direction (beware: this is somewhat dangerous and should only be done with sawes designed for this - it is much safer on tracksaws) when the blade is really is when you cut plastics or metals - like aluminium or PMMA: you can in principle cut them with every wood blade, but you should buy a specially designed blade for that - they usually have trapezoidal teeth and a very different cutting angle compared to wood blades

[@EarthPoweredHippie]

I'm a roofer so I don't use a table saw, but my circular saw stays with a Diablo multi purpose, cuz nails

[@josephlanglois8073]

Sir i make wooden amercian flags and i use my table saw to cut the strips down to one inch what do u suggest for a blade to get a clean cut

[@glg3945]

Thank you, great information 👍. All the best. Peace and good fortune and good health to you and your family. ❤️ 😀

[@adek86]

Why is Comibnation Table Saw blade not available in Europe? (any brand)