What Type of Post Base Connection Should I Use While Building a Deck?

www.homebuildingandrepairs.com... Click on this link for more helpful videos that can save you time and money on your next deck building project. This video will provide you with a few different types or construction methods builders have used over the years while building decks and trying to figure out the best way to fasten them to the ground. The foundation of a deck and the way it's connected to the deck itself is critical to making them last for decades under the right conditions.

[@dannypowerlevel8758]

Thank you for the helpful advice on building and repairs. We like to have helpful videos to send out customers so that they have some good reference videos.

[@fernandog.aguirre2791]

I live in Hawaii and even pressure-treated will decay in a few years! Not even mention termites action!

[@robbullard2678]

Thanks for the very clear explanation. I am getting ready to build a detached deck and my son wanted me to use the concrete piers instead of burying the posts in the ground. Your observation of the deck not being strong laterally was one I had never though about. Thanks again.

[@gregvancom]

You're welcome and good luck on your project.

[@macclark4112]

I used a combination of 4x6 in concreted post holders. And buried 4x4 anchored points with concrete post holders. Deck combination / Pergola no termites in Montana and dry ground here. All 4 posts at corners are 12” sono-tubes 4foot into the ground. And then 4x4 treated posts 4 foot into the ground at all Center points between corner posts. Yes this structure is very solid over built. And 6 deck blocks supporting two 4x4 cross members with 4x4 uprights. All this in the Mountains of Central Montana.

[@cynthiaherndon4480]

This sounds great. I wonder if it would work for my 6x12 attached catio in Western South Dakota?

[@jaym.4611]

I have learned so much by watching your videos thank you.

[@jasonlommen4769]

Great video, love the animation. Helps seeing exactly what you’re talking about. New sub.

[@gregvancom]

Welcome aboard!

[@durangodave]

great video you helped me with my free standing carport design. i think the simpson bracket style is also known as a H bracket . i will have extra lateral support added in the plans beam to beam and beam to roof

[@gregvancom]

Cool, thanks

[@rjlp128]

I've had pretty good success with using 6x6 treated posts that I put into an auger drilled hole. I coat the in ground part of the post in several layers of rubber sealant to prevent moisture seeping into the post while it sets in the concrete. I've not had one of these posts rot in the over 15 yrs of doing this. Just an idea to share.

[@gregvancom]

Thanks, I always like to hear stories where people have tested something out and it worked well, but I also need to point out that some of these methods of building won't work in other areas. You should always use approved construction methods in your area.

[@refusoagaino6824]

As a kid I walked along cedar fences on an uncle's farm that were old and due to be replaced, after more than 50 years. Almost all the posts were rotted right at the base where air meets soil. Some had fallen already, others could be pushed over. Removing the section from the ground showed the wood to be in good condition, as was the part of the post that was completely above ground. Rot occurs not when a post is always wet, nor when it's always dry, only when it's alternately wet and dry. When I mined uranium in Ontario, we salvaged beams that had been submerged for 18 years or so. Better than furniture grade with some resins washed out. That's why some people spend so much money trying to salvage sunken logs from rivers previously used for logging. Top quality wood. Drainage is everything. Stop the moisture and all is good. Almost every problem a house can suffer is related directly or indirectly to moisture control.

[@felixjaimes714]

gregvancom i

[@juliemarriott2603]

Refuso Againo l

[@huejanus5505]

If you set posts in concrete, use gravel for the first few inches, then concrete. As long as the post is not completely encased in concrete, it will last decades. I recently reconfigured my 30 year old deck and had to remove a couple the old posts, there was zero rot on them. I live in the northeast and have my yard has very high clay content.

[@gregvancom]

I'm guessing that you weren't using pressure-treated lumber, but if you were, then this method should work just fine. However, if you didn't, then I would also like to point out that I've heard others make the same suggestions, but I'm not entirely convinced this will work all the time.

[@Tazzspaz]

I agree. I am in the SE US which gets a lot of rain. I have had good success with this.

[@PastorBillwillard2147]

I would also go with a 6x6 post for additional support

[@donnyanda3191]

setting in concrete but using bitumen paint for everything below ground level is a good idea.

[@chrisw7402]

Hi, I want to get prefab metal braces made for a new fence with 8x8 wooden posts. Would the long metal brace method embedded in a concrete base work for a 6’ garden fence? It is replacing a fence that rotted at the base. Thanks

[@geraldpan3992]

thanks for this video!

[@gregvancom]

You're Welcome.

[@ReverendHogwash]

Id say use plate / bracket connections for decks less than 30" it will be so much easier to do a replacement down the road.

[@benjaminbunny99]

What would you recommend when building on top of an existing concrete pad? Brackets?

[@zombie1078]

Hi there, do you think that bitumen coated treated timber posts buried in the ground with concrete would last a fair bit longer than the examples you have in the video? I have to build a landing and steps at the back of my house and I need to do it in the most cost effective way possible, I have bought H4 treated 90mm posts and also have some bitumen paint to treat the ends that will be buried, I'm going to give them several coats of bitumen for maximum protection. Thanks for any advice

[@gregvancom]

I would imagine the H4 treated would be enough, but I have never worked with liquid bitumen, so it would be difficult for me to provide you with a reasonably rational opinion.

[@donchichivagabond1578]

How about a deck extending from a flat surface to a 5 ft drop? That's what I have to build. I was thinking of putting a concrete footing on top for the deck to sit on and do what you suggest to the 2 legs at the drop. What you think?

[@gregvancom]

I cannot provide you with structural engineering information, but think that a couple of footings, posts and structural beams might work just fine. Let me know if this didn't answer your question.

[@GainSolarPower]

Hi Greg your videos are extremely informative. How would you attach support columns Of a lean to roof to and existing deck. Can they be set on the deck or should they go down and have their own foundation

[@gregvancom]

If the deck has solid structural support underneath then you might be able to attach to the top, but if not then you would need to make a footing.

[@GainSolarPower]

@@gregvancom thanks. Your videos are great.

[@LittleSon3]

Would the Simpson post tie be enough if building a small lean to for holding firewood? Using your recommended 6” off the ground with 1/4” gap under the brace?

[@gregvancom]

It sounds like it would, but I couldn't answer the question for sure, without seeing some type of drawing or detail.

[@edcastanon9948]

I have a 4" thick slab of concrete I would like to add shade to. These type of bases use a 8"+ bolt which would go through the concrete. Is that ok? Also can you avoid / delay damage to the wood and base by wrapping or boxing the posts in another wood?

[@gregvancom]

You would need to check with local building authorities to verify what type of post base connectors you would need in your area, but most of the time a post footing like this for a covered patio usually requires a footing that might be 1' x 1' x 1' or larger. In other words, you might need to cut the concrete and remove some of the dirt so that you can install your new footing and connecting hardware.

[@maryprather696]

I am wanting to add a room on to my trailer. What would be the best footer

[@gregvancom]

If the trailer isn't going to move, then you can use concrete footings, but if the trailer is going to move, then you might need to use concrete piers. Let me know if this makes sense or if you need more information.

[@maybenj25]

One question I’ve had a hard time finding answers to is decks built above uneven rock. The terrain I need to build over is nearly all granite boulders and not one level surface to bolt the posts to. Any ideas would be appreciated.

[@tsizzle]

What would you recommend for footers, post base for a detached platform deck that’s very low to the ground, < 4-6 inches?

[@gregvancom]

I can't provide you with engineering advice, but can tell you that I built a lot of decks using 12 x 12 x 12 footings.

[@semco72057]

I want to build a small deck for my home and have it attached at the back door area. I want to use concrete blocks for the wood to be sitting on at the ground level and have supports attached to the 4x4 boards coming up from the ground.

[@gregvancom]

I don't know exactly what your project is going to look like, but imagine that you could use concrete blocks for concrete footings.

[@ambercesario2468]

so over the 4 options, for a low to the ground freestanding deck (3' max on one side and at grade on the other), would you recommend the compacted in dirt method? I've seen some similar options where they put some gravel on top of the concrete footing (around the post), and some where they put gravel under the footing, which way is better? Also the residential code shows a metal bracket whether you put the post end below or above ground, but I can't figure out how the heck you would properly fasten the bracket to the post if it's 28" below ground with only about 5" of working space...is the Simpson bracket system even rated for below ground use? I couldn't find any information about that...

[@gregvancom]

I don't think they make brackets that can be used underground in soil. I would recommend taking a footing and then using one of the examples I suggest in the video. I don't recommend burying wood in the ground or surrounding it with gravel. Feel free to ask another question if I didn't provide you with the answers you are looking for.

[@bryanhackett2501]

+gregvancom Its called a post ground spike.

[@ChedWick05]

All I gathered from this is every deck I've ever been on is going to collapse at any moment.

[@gregvancom]

I don't know if I would go that far, but now that you got me thinking, you could be right.

[@THLauren]

When building a pavilion, the big ones are 20x24 or 24x24. I can't find 20 ft pressure treated 6x6. Am I able to attach two 6x6x10 or 12 posts for the roof lateral support?

[@gregvancom]

I cannot provide you with structural engineering information, but if you send me a picture of your problem or project I can provide you with an opinion. You can get our email address at our website.

[@marcelodaza2698]

What kind of roof do recommend for a cover patio

[@gregvancom]

There are plenty of designs you can choose from, but it would be difficult for me to recommend one of them.

[@horatio71]

Interesting, although I in general agree, I would propose a fifth way and in my view most elegant solution - I am being humble :-) Put into the concrete a big heavy duty, 2 inch threaded rod, with a heavy duty 3, inch diameter steel washer and corresponding heavy duty nut. Depending on the size of the wooden pole the rod, nut and washer could even be wider. The Pole would need a 3 inch deep hole where the steel rood would sit in. If you go with 6 by 6 wooden pole that should easily hold.The nut and washer would raise the pole max 2.5 inches from the concrete and the pole can rest on a real heavy duty washer and nut. You hardly see anything, if you see something it is pure function. And as you know, form follows function:My sister lives in a log house with her family and they have that and it actually looks pretty cool. In a log house it allows for different combination of horizontal logs with timber framing.Height adjustment of the roof as needed. That is a feature!What do you think?Cheers,John

[@gregvancom]

+horatio71 Sounds good to me and I love your elegant solution. A structural engineer might not appreciate your creativity, but as long as it does the job, who would we be to argue until proven otherwise.

[@horatio71]

+gregvancom Many thanks. I am always looking for an architectural appealing solution with an interesting function. I have seen my solution occasionally, we are certainly not the only ones doing it, but it does not appear to be that common. I have seen many different solutions where I would have preferred the above rod-nut-washer-solution. I'm just in the process of renovating a homestead, so I am planning everything from renovating the barn (where I likely will also using the nut and a timber frame solution) to adding timber frame extension to houses to increase living space, and importantly building a sauna by the lake, but want to make it look authentic Swedish country style. I'll be busy for the next 20 years. But fun, will be doing a lot myself. We'll see how that works out...

[@gregvancom]

Well I wish you the best of luck and it seems like we will always be working on for improving our homes.

[@johnothies1435]

horatio71 jjj

[@extremereclusefallows5779]

How long would it take a 6x6 post to fail if buried 5 feet underground? Now, what would happen if that post was covered in tar before being buried? I would never build a deck adjacent to an upper floor. Always build them at the ground floor. I sunk my simpson strong tie into the footing. I set my double beam into the strong tie without any post.

[@bigalcervantes5118]

My friend, can u do a video on a deck build around an above ground pool?

[@gregvancom]

I will put it on my list and hopefully it will be done in the future, but I don't know if it will be done in the near future. If you have any, feel free to email us some pictures or design ideas about your project.

[@TheMaverick1955]

This should happen

[@martinez90kz]

what if im doing a pergola in a slab that i already poured footings below, 18x18 pergola what post anchor would I use? for my 6x6 posts

[@gregvancom]

You can try using any base connectors that attaches to the footing. Most will need to have a hole drilled into the concrete. I can't provide product to use, but maybe try you're local lumber yard for more information.

[@cidrosen190]

I have an odd space I am trying to build a deck on... its going to be difficult to try to explain my situation without a picture but that is why I am asking for an altnerative way. Is it possible to just drill into old concrete to attach my post? I only require a short post of maybe half a foot just to keep it off the ground to prevent rotting.

[@gregvancom]

Yes.

[@cidrosen190]

When I attach my base posts to the existing concrete floor, I'm assuming I am still going to need to use fresh concrete right? should I hole large enough for me to pour fresh concrete into it for the screws to lock in place? Also, I think I will have to attach my ledger board to a concrete wall as well. Is it okay or safe to do so? If it is considerably more complicated or not recommended then I might as well avoid it altogether. I am jus wondering because most of the tutorials I have watched are constructed by attaching to a house of wood siding. Ive also seen so many different methods of screwing into concrete. different screws, different pastes, etc. Thanks for the help

[@gregvancom]

It might be better if you send me a picture of your project and areas of concern.

[@jackielinde7568]

I'd say maybe, but there are a lot of factors. You can drill into old concrete and use cement/concrete anchors to hold down those Simpson's post saddles (CB44's) gregfancom mentions in the video. HOWEVER, this depends mostly on how the existing slab was made and how wet/dry the location is. Most likely, the concrete pad you're trying to anchor your deck is probably a patio, porch, pool decking, etc. Depending on what the codes were back when the the concrete was poured, you may have a pad that is no more than 4 inches (about 10 centimeters) thick with no rebar or other metal structure to absorb and transmit the stress. Your deck posts (and all the load they carry) would probably destroy a 4 inch thick pad. Also, if you live in a climate that has any kind of a frost line, the cement must go below the frost line. When winter comes, the freezing of water in the soil will cause structures over or in it to pitch up in the winter (called frost jacking). This isn't bad for garden pathways and patios that do not support any structures, but is bad for decks, houses, sheds, carports, attached porches, etc. This is why most books and videos on deck building state posts should have a footing that extends at least a foot (about 30 centimeters) below the surface, or at least six inches below the frost line if there is one where you live. They also require that the footings contain rebar to add strength to the post. The second issue you will face will be moisture. If the environment is wet either from weather or nearby water sources (like a pool), you may have to raise the distance from the end of the wood part of the post to the ground to prevent moisture from wicking up the post and causing rot. The post saddle hardware (like the one mentioned in the video) will have two pieces that will create a gap from the mounting surface to the bottom of the post. (The gap varies based on the hardware used.) This is great for any moisture pooling on top of a footing, but won't help in areas where there's a lot of standing water from rain, melted snow, or kids splashing in a pool. Your local building code may require the footing to extend above the ground.

[@bernieweber4663]

use a galvanized steel plate to separate it from the ground, should work for a few years

[@PastorBillwillard2147]

They make a sleeve that the 4x4 post goes into prior to burying it

[@mind444]

I have a deck attached to the house that is sloped down and they out a roof on it to make it a enclosed room .the post on the corner is in the ground not on any cement acutely all the post are in the ground and they are starting to decay . Is this common for a hillside construction (in the ground and not on a cement pier ) for hillside project? thanks Tony

[@gregvancom]

It's been done before, but another example of failed construction and you might need to replace it with a post sitting on top of concrete footing.

[@tillmansr2002]

Hello Greg, where is the video on the bracing mentioned at 1:50 ?

[@gregvancom]

Here it is kzbin.info/www/bejne/rWrJon15aLCZesU

[@maggsh7934]

What is the best method to secure a pergola purchased from Costco onto a concrete patio we already have?

[@gregvancom]

I don't know exactly what the pergola looks like, but I would contact the product manufacturer. If not, then you might be able to drill a hole into the concrete and install a framing anchor that can be purchased at most home improvement centers and lumber yards, but I don't know if they would be strong enough, but the product manufacturer should.

[@gregvancom]

I don't know exactly what the pergola looks like, but I would contact the product manufacturer. If not, then you might be able to drill a hole into the concrete and install a framing anchor that can be purchased at most home improvement centers and lumber yards, but I don't know if they would be strong enough, but the product manufacturer should.

[@tillmansr2002]

Greg back again, the postbase shown at 1:30 to 2:20 in the video (CB44). How does one set this product so that it is actually plumb? I have a desire to use a similar embedded system (MPBZ simpson product), but I can not image getting this device (either CB44 or MPBZ) actually plumb. The device seems to be 6-8 inches above the concrete but the post would extend 8-9 feet. One millimeter or 1/32 of an inch out of plumb would cascade to an inch or two at the top of a post. What are best methods to use such systems? Of course suspending the post in thin air with the device already attached and pouring concrete around the postbase is the best solution, but that would seem to require magic..

[@gregvancom]

About the best I can do right now is put your question on my list of videos to be made in the future. Email me some pictures or drawings of what type of concrete forms you're going to be using.

[@MandoMafia]

Bear in mind that a freshly cut end of a pressure treated post will not be as protected as the factory end. When a piece of wood is treated, the concentration of chemical is greatest at the surfaces of the post as it came out of the factory. Certainly don’t put a fresh cut end below grade…it will rot quicker.

[@ThomasWilliamBartley]

You can buy different levels of pressure treated wood. They make some that is treated to be submerged underwater for decks. It's .6 CCA. Comes in various sizes. If it's used in dirt, and not water like it's treated to withstand, it will last at least 100 years before you begin to see any type of rot.

[@user-lq1gi9hv7k]

What is the name of the specification of the .6 CCA rating? I'm trying to find some posts that have that rating.

[@brendashenda4249]

are 4 - 4x4's sufficient for a 8x10 deck that is 6 ft off the ground?

[@blindhelicopterpilot]

No. Go with 6 x 6

[@FlyinRaptorJesus]

im building a deck that is 1 foot off the ground... how am i supposed to do the posts without burring them in the ground?

[@gregvancom]

See if this helps kzbin.info/www/bejne/rWrJon15aLCZesU

[@markdaniel8740]

Simpson does not even provide lateral values for a cb44 or any other post or column base. they are for uplift.

[@gregvancom]

Interesting, but I'm guessing that you would get some lateral support by using the CB 44's as opposed to nothing at all or even a little more if you used the raised post bases that require an anchor bolt. Just thinking out loud.

[@rachelmaghuyop5570]

Hello. Can I use that 4th post as the main post of the wooden house?

[@gregvancom]

I can't provide engineering information.

[@jimgillin8015]

Stop deck "Racking" collapse, use triangular braces in top corners X & Y planes. Simply cut squares of plywood in half diagonally for each post. 2 per post, 1 in each opposing direction X & Y. Place each at top outside corners, 90' @ vert. x horz. tying them into stiff shear resistant structurally stable structure in typical four post platform. Choose size of 90' Right triangles used, thickness of OSB or plywood yourselves, larger thicker the stronger better. *WARNING* Use at own risk, consult proper authorities, codes and covenants. Seek professional advise if needed!

[@jimgillin8015]

There's several similar configurations and materials available. Above recommendation cheap, material convenient. This is basic building construction 101. Build on Bro's!

[@samcarver317]

I build decks for a living. I've been watching deck building videos for the past couple hours. Most of the videos I see there is a lot of non optimum decks being built. Lol The comments are worse. You are the first person I have seen that has pointed out the problem with having the post sitting on concrete. The deck swaying. Every video I saw that's how it was being done as you pointed out that's the worst way. I use the posts in the ground method. I dig a 2'x2' square hole 36" deep (code in my area) then pour 6"-8" pad at the bottom. Set my 6x6 post on that then backfill with the same dirt tamping it as I go. I'm never worried about it rotting in a lifetime. They make Ground Contact Rated pressure treated lumber its made to be in the ground or always wet. The problem with pouring the post into the concrete. The wood shrinks over time and a gap is formed between the concrete and the post. Water gets in there and freezes and cracks the concrete. Partly that is due to many people digging and 8" hole putting the post in pouring concrete around it. You only end up with like 2" thick concrete around the post. That can freeze and crack easily. The post can then move around inside the hole. Over time the space around the post gets bigger from the post wiggling around and compacting the sides of the hole. If you had a 12" hole that probably wouldn't happen but I don't see holes that size often.

[@gregvancom]

You bring up some good points about lumber shrinking, but it usually doesn't shrink enough to create big problems and it's my job to point out the things others don't seem to care about. Thanks for the nice comment.

[@grantpell3463]

Code here requires decks over 6' to be set in the ground on 8''of concrete in a 42" hole and 18" wide. Concrete must be poured around the post. Also, the post needs to bet set over a 6" rebar pin, but not sure how to do that when replacing a post. Plus, I think a hole in the bottom of the post would only add to any rot problem. Half of the 6" x 6" posts on the pole barn built in the early 1980s are almost rotted though with constant moisture.

[@gregvancom]

Where is this, I never heard of this type of construction as mandatory.

[@grantpell3463]

Columbus, Ohio. Probably extra safety concerns related to all the student housing around OSU. There was a skit on SNL set at OSU where Will Farrel mentioned a 'party porch' collapsing.

[@gregvancom]

Interesting and I would imagine that it would work as long as you used the correct type of pressure treated lumber and approved methods of construction.

[@theinlwin9379]

If free standing on concrete footing that will be safe from earth moving to prevent house damages and cracking. So is that wrong or not?

[@gregvancom]

You would need to check with a local structural engineer to answer that question in your area, because different soil can require larger footings to prevent or reduce movement.

[@webchez69]

I want to make a 12x12 deck one foot off the ground. Can I just make 8x8 feet and lay it on a few concrete slabs and strengthen with more feet in center of deck?

[@gregvancom]

+Webchez That will probably work, just make sure the wood isn't sitting directly on the concrete.

[@jackielinde7568]

Best thing to do is sketch what you want on paper, take it to your municipality's building permits office, and ask them what the code requires. Depending on where you live, the sketches don't have to be architectural drawings with engineering stamps. (If you live in Phoenix, Arizona, their building projects department will take most small home improvements by rough sketch that aren't even to scale.) They will look at your plans, let you know what the code requires, and even make suggestions. They'll also let you know when you need a building permit and inspections.

[@MP14236133]

I suggest using a steel post like a lally post embedded into the concrete 2 feet and then trim it out with treated 2x4s for looks.

[@gregvancom]

A steel post would work fine, but it would have to be something sturdier than the lolly posts. You could create some type of a moment frame for additional strength also.

[@dannymurphy1779]

Thanks for this great video. On a porch with a couple of wood columns standing on a concrete base, is a damp proof membrane between wood and concrete ie on base of column effective or is it better to use some sort of metal shoe between wood and concrete?

[@gregvancom]

I don't think it will hurt, just as long as moisture cannot accumulate in this area. I would prefer using metal hardware that is raised at least 1/8 of an inch above the concrete like some of the post base connectors.

[@dannymurphy1779]

@@gregvancom thanks - I think the way you suggest is best.

[@soktheaseng6974]

Hello, im thinking about building a pergola. So would a concrete block base be ok for the post?

[@gregvancom]

It would depend upon the type of design. Feel free to send me some pictures, but keep in mind that I am not an engineer and will only be providing you with a suggestion. You can get our email address at the website.

[@victorsalamanca389]

gregvancom you can help me too ?

[@ega0117]

Telephone poles still are used and they last long. It’s used here in Houston. What say you?

[@gregvancom]

I cannot suggest what your local building department or engineers would require, but would agree that telephone poles often last a long time.

[@steviedee1748]

if the post rots you just install a temporary post and remove the old post and cement a new post in its place done it several times no problem...

[@dynamicjellies5701]

Stevie Dee Why'd you have to do it several times?

[@Trouble361]

Put 3 galvanized nails on each side of post in the foot of post before you create them in the ground... it acts like a rebar for the post and keeps it secure in the concrete.

[@jasonengles5094]

Quick question. And i feel like im a genius for this. Why not dig 36” hole and line the hole with a moisture barrier then set your post in then the concrete. Would that solve the rotting problem?

[@jasonengles5094]

Or maybe that would make it hold water

[@gregvancom]

I like it and as long as you didn't seal the bottom, it would prevent moisture from entering from the sides.

[@gregvancom]

Yes, you couldn't create a container, because it could trap moisture and accelerate the wood rotting process.

[@ChristKrew-Rev1.8]

can you use cb44's to build a pole barn shed?

[@gregvancom]

I don't see why you couldn't, but you would need to understand that there would be practically no lateral strength using these posts bases. I'm not a pole barn builder, but having a general understanding about engineering and home construction, believes that these posts are buried in the ground or in concrete to provide lateral support or side to side support for this type of construction.

[@ChristKrew-Rev1.8]

@@gregvancom Not really looking to build a home but an indoor archery range for next winter. The 4x4's would layed flat using the cb44 as more of off the ground braces to build a would deck floor.

[@mind444]

I forgot to mention that it is attached to the house with a ledger board and is about six feet high with 6x6x7 foot post. Tony

[@strokerace4765]

I built a free standing deck on the side of a mountain, I buried the post three feet in the ground for stability, I’m more concerned about it standing for five years than rotting in 20 years.

[@flpnovr2]

This may be a silly question but how come someone doesn't come up with some sort of composite post which to me would seem to solve a lot of problems?

[@gregvancom]

You've got a good point and there are some available, but I think there four times more expensive than a regular wood post.

[@jackielinde7568]

They have a variety of different post materials from wood, composite, and even PVC. The pros and cons vary by ease of use, installation requirements, appearances, cost, duability, etc. I think wood retains its popularity in the US because of its availability, ease of use, and cost. I don't know if it's the same in other parts of the world. And, always check with your local building permits office as to what's allowed and what's not. (For instance, I don't think anything PVC can be used for load bearing or structural where I live, mainly because of the high temps in the summers. It may get hot enough for the material to soften and deform.)

[@flpnovr2]

I do not know much about the topic, but what you mentioned about PVC may in fact be true, now how about composite then? That is different than PVC isn't it?

[@gregvancom]

I would try to avoid using composite or PVC materials, because I don't think they been tested enough for structural loads. I'm not a big fan of products that have been thoroughly tested (but they haven't) and then the company simply files bankruptcy and leaves all of the property owners with the problems.

[@yingyihuang1359]

Alexi Baez g

[@debalenalang09]

For a 7x7 post, how deep should be my concrete footings?

[@gregvancom]

I can't provide you with concrete footing sizes. Sorry

[@perry9492]

My experience has been that no matter how you anchor the post, if the end grain is exposed, the post will rot from the bottom up as the end grain absorbs water. Yes this can happen even with treated wood. The end grain should be water proofed if you want the post to last. Also posts in the ground will rot at the interface between air and ground.

[@gregvancom]

Great information and it's not a bad idea to treat or provide some type of treatment for the ends of a wood post or even the entire post to make it last longer.

[@rstephens049]

You can wrap the 4x4 post in tar paper then concrete it in the ground. Nothing will last forever except heaven and purgatory. But that will hold it for many many year's to come.

[@JanetWilham]

treat the ends of the post BEFORE you set them--be it any good waterproof sealer even black oil based sealers. Years ago people used cresode based coating they made but that is outlawyed now--so you must purchase a bucket of the new law friendly type.

[@zachrawlings6523]

The best treatment for sub-grade wood i learned from farmers building fences. Cant say its organic but most certainly sustainable in the crudest sense, no pun intended, crudely. Mix 1 part diesel fuel to 1 part used engine oil, coat and soak beyond the depth to be buried- ~36". Backfill and pack every 6-12". Call me in 75yrs

[@gregvancom]

I like it.

[@lesnytl8318]

I use pvc ø110 mm pipes + B 30 concrate

[@RWong-wn3pv]

It’s been a head scratcher, why someone would ruin a whole bunch of systems to attach a pergola to a house?

[@nhannguyen-sr9vh]

Why not just put a 4x4 metal (steel or aluminum) post in the concrete with some weep holes in the bottom and then put your 3.5x3.5" treated post inside of the metal square tube? no water issues and much stronger for lateral loads. think out side the box. just because you are making a wood deck doesn't mean all components need to be wood.

[@gregvancom]

Excellent idea and definitely another alternative. Keep in mind that metal posts might need to be positioned accurately in this might be difficult for do-it-yourselfers.

[@rf4215]

Have you used/seen the simpson mpbz?

[@gregvancom]

They seem over priced, but seem like another great connector.

[@jonathan3518]

Didn’t raising a post base off of the concrete mean you are just bearing on the metal tabs being wet set into the block?

[@gregvancom]

Yes, but they are designed to support certain loads and those numbers can be found at the product manufactures website.

[@jonathan3518]

@@gregvancom I don’t know, think that heavy loads will just bend the tabs into the post contacts base. Admittedly a low risk issue as you won’t have a catastrophic failure but ends up causing the deck to sag. Anyway, I’m in the weeds at this point. Love the videos. Helps me think through my process before I build.

[@501contractortips]

@@jonathan3518 Defiantly do some more research until you feel comfortable making a decision.

[@jonathan3518]

@@501contractortips don’t get me wrong, I’ve never and would never install a post base anything but flush on the pier. Can’t imagine Simpson would allow anything less. If the base isn’t set flush the tabs fold to let the post find a solid surface and that without compromise the tabs themselves and could leave the post with no uplift or lateral restraint.

[@yourontheair]

why not 4 sided support bracket

[@gregvancom]

As long as they meet local building requirements, then yes.

[@blankpage111]

Americans religiously rely on wood products while other materials highly available. What is the problem to put 4x4 aluminum hollow pole? Or simply build a brick pole with 4 bricks in a layer? I am from Russia and we usually build houses of the bricks. Wood and drywall are not reliable materials at all. Even price wise is not always a winner. But quality over price has always to be a priority.

[@chrislc35]

so after watching that for 10mins, all 4 are crap? well thanks.

[@gregvancom]

Not really, each one of them can be used with different methods of construction and different heights of a deck. If it can be used, all methods where the concrete is above ground at least 6 inches while using some type of metal hardware as a fastener or connector will usually be beneficial.

[@joecortez1030]

ok. but if you think that this is not a good method why are you talking about it, your saying doesn't make sense friend

[@gregvancom]

Sometimes it is difficult to understand why someone should or should not use something and that's why I was providing different examples.

[@LiveInTheNow247]

fuck no! no structural engineering firm would want to involve themselves with you if you are trying to build a structure in your backyard, it has to be all conventional wood structure where your city will acknowledge and give you a permit to build. I'm telling this from experience. you are fucked if you have metal posts or beams in your structure so just find a way to make it all out of wood.

[@patrafferty3512]

You are so full of crap Fuktaz. Go back to playing with Legos and Lincoln Logs while us professionals combine wood and steel when necessary to build sturdy structures. Damn Idiot...!!!!

[@LiveInTheNow247]

Pat Rafferty fuck off dump ass

[@LiveInTheNow247]

fuck no! no structural engineering would want to involve themselves with you if you are trying to build a structure in your backyard, it has to be all conventional wood structure where your city will acknowledge and give you a permit to build. I'm telling this from experience. you are fucked if you have metal posts or beams in your structure so just find a way to make it all out of wood.

[@markdaniel8740]

TheFightaz I have built many patios that have been engineered and have never had a problem finding an engineer.

[@LiveInTheNow247]

Mark Daniel hope they were all metal, how much did the engineer charge you for his services?