What went wrong? Chrysler 3.5 Engine Tear Down

[@johngreen6643]

To everyone with the negative comments and\or claiming the engine is toast, read "strattuner"'s comment. He has 47 years of experience with engines & transmissions. This engine can easily be rebuilt since 95% of the damage was in the bearings, which is exactly why the bearings are built of a softer material. A bit of machining, new bearings & a re-ring kit is about all that is needed to get this engine operational again. Maybe magna flux to check for cracks from the overheating as well, which is usually done with a hot tank cleaning & boring/honing. But to each his own. I gave my son a 2001 300m with this engine & it's at about 245,000 miles now & still plenty of life left in it. Never had anything other than Mobile-1 oil in it. I'm a big fan of the 300's, way ahead of their time. Good job on the teardown Matt & keep up the good work. Always fun to see exactly what caused a failure.

[@strattuner]

I'm a master of 47 years,trans and engines were my specialty,this engine is made good,i can see by watching your video that the 3.2 and 3.5 has a lot of superior design,the bearings were into the copper,that means that the guy driving the car changed oil,never,oil is a flush,it always has been,this engine looked good on the bores and pistons,id' of sent the crank out had it turned,KING BEARING OUT OF ISRAEL is now making main and rod bearings for a 0.080 cut,that means that you never weld these flimsy cranks just turn them down till they are out of spec,they are also ohc hemi engines,when cutting the cranks on these small engines,tighten the lower end up to 0.0017 on mains and rods,tight means they will not hammer,the hammering is what speeds up the show of copper,i'd change oil religiously every 3500 miles and throw on a lot of filters,like one every 2000 then add a quart,the belts should be changed every 80k to 125k depending on how you stay off the throttle,i really enjoyed your video,first one to show complete teardown,you learn it all on teardown

[@shorthouse1368]

I work on these motors and your teardown video was very informative. For people who are having a engine knock and are wondering where the problem is coming from, your video gives people a look where the problem is. Thank you for taking the time to this the video.

[@randy1ization]

can the crankshaft be sanded smooth and new bearings installed

[@68pishta68]

Those head gaskets are graphite coated and that's the stuff that transfers to the head. It makes a great seal, especially on pitted heads but its tough to change out. Fel-pro has a different style coating, more of a rubber clad.

[@rahrah8076]

There is also 3 rubber orings that need to be changed on the back of timing cover when you do the timing belt..it is very critical to change it

[@HoweDoYouDo1999]

RAHRAH807 man that just sounds like an ass though he’s lucky he’s touching this motor and not me haha this shut would be labor intensive 😂😂😂

[@mpetersen6]

Rule #1 with these engines. When it comes time to change the timing belt put a fresh water pump in. You're already there anyway. Working on an engine at home in the garage. Get a cheap blow molded kiddis pool. Make a riser from some lumber and you've got a catch pan. In the 90s Chrysler proped a sport racing spec class to the SCCA and IMSA (?) That used the 3.5 drive train out of the Intrepid. If somebody's building a kit car the engine and transaxle would make a nice package. Even stock in a light chassis you'd have a decent power to weight ratio. To my knowledge these engines never got a lot of love (if any) in the tuner market. The bottom end is pretty strong. 4 main bolts with two cross bolts. Structural windage tray and oil pan. One piece front and rear seals.

[@bradhardy2629]

My 99 Chrysler 300m has a 3.5 original motor . Just rolled over 400,000 miles . It's called regular maintenance . If your failed it on you .

[@mjhmech4903]

I have just had a 3.5 in a 300C fail without warning at 230,000km! it is serviced every 15,000km as per manufacturer with top shelf 5W30 Syn. What a lump of expensive junk!!

[@billgateskilledmyuncle23]

Don't follow those crazy recommended intervals. Go under those intervals. That's hippy dippy environmentalists coming up with that crap. I have a hated 5.4 Ford Triton with 206k miles on it. Rotella synthetic every 5k miles which would be like 7 or 8k km. Engine runs fine. Biggest killer of the triton is gunky oil.

[@darrylmcleman6456]

is it not odd that the pistons popped right out past the cylinder ridge??

[@AlwaysBeSmart674]

i heard he found out later the car just needed gas

[@HoweDoYouDo1999]

He sounds like the guy who would use that as an excuse for it blowing up oh why did my car blow up haha not enough gas I should have hit up a gas station 😂😂😂

[@pauljoey7977]

I think you could have extended your oil change interval out to like 20,000 and every three years because that motor on the bottom and looked really good

[@samuelgoodman2989]

I reused the mls head gaskets on my buds 01 rt intrepid.it had bent valves from a timing belt failure.It has a additional 40 or so k no problems

[@mpetersen6]

Let me guess. He didn't change it when he should have

[@4422ringo]

That engine was run without oil. Every bearing is toast. That one piston was slapping a valve because of extreme clearance on that one rod bearing.

[@Peter-pv8xx]

This a reminder to change your oil religiously, those people who say you can wait 10,000 miles are nuts, oil is cheaper than a new engine, I do mine every 3 to 4k, I have 284,000 on my 3.8 engine in my lesabre with no problems, you can barley hear the engine running.

[@HeriKurnianingsih]

I missed why you had to scrap the block. I didn't see where any bearings spun in the block, which would be the only damage there. I didn't see any scored cylinders. You can usually have cylinders honed to 30 mil over and fit new pistons. If the crank was damaged, you can have it ground down a bit and use thicker oversized bearings. The factory even did that occasionally back in the 1960's during engine production. They would mark such blocks with a Maltese Cross or such.

[@adamtrombino106]

I thought for a moment that you were trying for a rebuild, but after seeing what was left of it, I agree, that short block is toast. There is not a lot of room for machining on those blocks, so another short block would be the only fix. I haven't seen 1 wipe out bearings that bad that still ran and had oil pressure. Hard to say exactly what happened when, but it seems that multiple overheating, plus coolant in the oil, wiped out the bearings, which caused lower oil pressure, and created a domino effect. Hope you made some dough off the scrap :)

[@blackdragon46819]

The bearings are actually supported to have a groove so it is lubricated all the way around

[@kevinross2431]

Quick question is there a oil galley plug on the oil pump by chance

[@WallaceRoseVincent]

Can't wait to watch this tonight! This should be a part of an MBA course. You should do the 2.7 nightmare too. Maybe another title for this would be, " How to destroy your reputation in business by outsourcing all the talent".

[@164hozey]

Can I follow this steps if I want to tear down a 3.6 out of a 2012 charger?

[@g8gtatlman483]

so what caused the bearings to fail?.. lack of oiling coolant in the oil..etc ?

[@Mn09lfV6f]

Not maintaining the engine

[@billmercado3004]

All that damage because the overheating and the oil pump go bad

[@wyrtwister4260]

At 14:00 , looks like the bearing swallowed something it should not have . In addition to wear down to the copper . The rest of them were pretty much as bad or worse . Looking at the oil on the rods and pistons , the oil did not look that great . Do not know if that was a factor ? Very educational video . Wyr God bless

[@jessward4344]

where can you get the connecting rod bolts

[@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics]

Kick ass teardown vid, Matt! Wow those bearings were HAMMERED huh? Looks like the ones further downstream from the oil pump really got beat up bad lol... So in this case, that glitch we saw on the crank sensor may actually have been physical movement from the bearing slop! Might as well throw a clean low-mileage engine back in and ship it :)

[@MattsMotorz]

Ah that makes sense! I remember you suggesting that and after seeing these bearings, I honestly think that is a definite possibility. Next time I am at the shop I will be opening up the oil pump to see what it looks like. As of next week, what is left of the car will be sold for scrap. Movin' on!

[@isacoritay]

Un my 300m especial edition i got a knock sound, in the mechanical workshop, told me that is a problem with the tappets, but now i think is the sale problem as yours. So, fix that how much should cost? Its very expensive? If you dont wanna make prices público xD please send me a private message

[@isacoritay]

+Random Person deam, well thanks bro :D

[@mahil7247]

motoYam82

[@dolanroufs1032]

May have been coolant in oil. Low oil pressure. Or lack of routine maintenance.

[@Mark-Milw42]

Thanks for the video. Unless my hearing aids missed it, did you mention how many miles were on this engine?

[@TheKapplebee]

antifreeze leak into oil will destroy bearings. The damage was on all the bearings so likely from a slow leak.

[@MattsMotorz]

Could be. Too late to know now!

[@andrewthompsonuk1]

Looks like your oil filter did a good job of collecting the swarf etc. Usually a bad engine would have metal shavings inside the shells. I think you may get away with a crank grind and oversized shells...as you know probably not worth it.

[@MuhammadAli-su3oo]

Block is going to Junkyard, Crankshaft can be use in an Alternative Block if found?

[@terryburke2587]

Nice tear down. Looks like engine was run low on oil or just didn't have oil changed regularly.

[@radein26]

Its honestly looking like there was some type of grit in your oil at some point. Bad filter for sure. Good and informative video ty. I'm looking to rebuild one of these for my magnum soon.

[@mjhmech4903]

27:41 So what caused it? Oil pump failure? relief valve ? blocked pick up? lack of oil?

[@MrHotJohnson]

Bearing

[@paulmyres7730]

Interesting video, the culprit is of course the damaged main bearing, the question is how did such damage occur to the main bearing in the first place?

[@mpetersen6]

Excessive milage between oil changes. Add in possible low oil levels. Also possible oil sludge in the main bearing oil galley port.

[@pauldudakadanielthomson8890]

I find out that the 2000 Concord's , 300M's and the LHS have no re-sale value. I just bought a 2001 LHS for $300.. Will it take me from Salt Lake City to Orlando and back again? The LHS has 172,567 miles on it , please share your opinion. I leave on May 3rd and must be back in S.L.C. by May 14th !

[@MartinSage]

Years ago I drove an Intrepid with a 3.3L that gave me 140,000 trouble free miles. I'd like to get another but heard the 3.5L suffers from too small oil passages and too small egr resulting in oil sludge/bad lubrication.

[@inaz1963]

No, that was an issue with the 2.7L.

[@brandon18054]

M G is correct. In fact the 2002+ 3.5L engines got rid of the EGR system.

[@sbuser4208]

Could replace the crank and bearings to fix this issue? Think my car did the same thing.

[@bonegrubber]

was wondering the same thing. And what was the reason those main bearings failed?

[@richardcasey7521]

The rod bearing are all totally wiped out. Why?

[@josephaumick2993]

I have a 2006 3.5 L Chrysler 300 engine which was hydro locked and has been sitting. What is the most likely thing I would have to try and fix?

[@DONKRIDAZ805]

WD 40

[@Jpilgrim30]

Didn’t watch your original videos but sounds like the OE gasket was a MLS gasket. It’s all metal and doesn’t leave a mess behind like the graphite gasket you used.

[@gizmothewytchdoktor1049]

no oil flow to the bearings looks like. fracked the crank and egged the rods. new rods/piston assemblies and turned crank would be a good idea. hi volume hi pressure oil pump is also recommended.

[@bones007able]

bearings look like lack of lubrication how many miles?

[@aboutmyfathersbusiness8324]

Poor maintenance is the problem...

[@satamanschmidt3428]

Antifreeze in the oil. This is all the result of the overheating episodes. The oil pump may have failed but likely it was clogged up by the debris from the bearings making a bad situation much worse.

[@Blazer02LS]

Yep. One of the items you have to watch for on the GM engines that have intake gasket issues. Antifreeze destroys the babbitt layer on the bearing and things rapidly go south.. If you are REAL lucky and catch it when it first starts you might be able to flush the crap out of the system and save them but that doesn't happen much.

[@rustycowll5735]

that is possible, but it would have to have been much earlier in its life, because coolant mixed with oil makes a chocolate shake concoction, which was not evident in the teardown video

[@TrueIndie88]

Matt, how many miles on the 3.5 before this failure?

[@dwaynejones987]

I have 245.000 I changed o2 sensors(all 4) coil packs (all 6) & plugs a month ago also water pump / timing belt 2 year ago, & it runs great! I think it will go another 100.000 miles! Use Mobile 1 full synthetic oil. I drove the car for 7 year & didn't do anything but brakes & tires. The car is a 2009 Chrysler 300 touring it still looks new. Keep your eye on the oil. It has a Mercedes transmission. I;ve had NO PROBLEM with it

[@johnringoo756]

@@dwaynejones987 I got a 2010 300 w/245k....just did tuneup and belt..runs great(I am religious on the oil

[@TheLifeOfMartin]

I worked on cylinder heads for a looong time. different gaskets work different. the residue is normal for a lot of them.

[@xtmg2010x]

Timing gear🙂 and those spark plugs look new although the gap looks a bit big.

[@xtmg2010x]

Also on the gasket, there's a specific torque sequence to follow on the heads. If you torque with no sequence you could warp the head causing a poor seal.

[@garyemorin]

I have a 3.5 liter dodge. I have 172.k miles. I run 10w40 Quaker State . I never race the engine, easy accel onto highway. No stomping onto the accelerator. But the clock spring is not working the best. Engine light on and off about every 12 starts.

[@TheRealBmanswan]

I'm sorry if this sounds stupid, but does this tear down walk through also work for the 97 3.5? I just bought a 1997 eagle vision TSI and instantly fell in love with it. I'm really wanting to tear it down and rebuild it. Thanks for the informative video!

[@Ajallday1010]

isn't there supposed to be a gasket between your water pump and block?

[@MattsMotorz]

For this car there is only a big o-ring.

[@rahrah8076]

Derick Smith yup you’re right

[@ericcawthon232]

Hi there Matt! I have two question about your Chrysler 300m. How many miles did it have on it when the motor started knocking. The other is I have a bumping noise when I run over bumps. I seen your video about the tie rod and I have replaced them a while back my question is what else could it be. I have not replace the struts yet but i was told it was the rack pinion, sway bar. But It seem like they were guessing. and hell I can do that myself. Just want to see if you had the same issue with your 300. I have an 2002 300m. How is that ryboi impact wrench is it worth the money. I seen it in your engine tear down video. Thinking about buying one.

[@MattsMotorz]

It had about 140,000 miles. Yes, many time it is the strut mounts that knock. The best thing to do is get under there and start moving things around to see if there is play. I love it. I got it as a gift about 4 years ago and it has served me well.

[@ericcawthon232]

Thanks for your feed back!!

[@ModularIsl]

Would you be able to push that engine on that mount up a smooth driveway slope

[@shilodemery5559]

What did u do with the car?

[@Adam19832]

HI ARE YOU SWAPPING WITH STANG BEARING OR UNDERSIZE? THANK YOU

[@RonSovine]

I have a 09 Dodge Challenger with the 3.5 liter ho is that a good motor so far I've only had it for 3 months so I really don't know a whole lot about it I don't know if that motor is the same as what I have just curious of your thoughts on that motor I am not drag racing it so I don't pretend it is something that it's not like a SRT so no burnouts or anything like that just a daily driver cruising I have the 3.6 in the 2013 Town and Country I know it seems like that's a better engine but just hopefully it's not a stupid question but with the proper maintenance and everything else is it a good motor your opinion

[@MattsMotorz]

The engine in this video is the 3.5 high output, so yes it is the same motor. The thing about this motor is, it does have some pattern failures that are quite annoying, but I would say it is still pretty good and produces quite an impressive amount of power for being naturally aspirated.

[@chrisj197438]

Those were powerful engines. My mom had a 95 intrepid and it had some serious balls for what it was.

[@brockallentaylor]

If a motor comes with a metal gasket anywhere or a MLS head gasket from the factory never replace it with that horrible graphite style gasket. It's cheap BS just like you suspected. Not only do you get the mess, it does not maintain the clamp load in all areas like the MLS style and will lead to leaks and loose bolts in the long term. The only benefit to the graphite style is that you can get away with more surface imperfections. Take the time to prep the surface properly and use a better gasket. All metal gaskets require a better surface finish. Such a waste of labor in the long run with cheap gaskets. Also that motor was run low on oil or had oil pump problems. I would guess low oil level. Thing is dry as hell in many places

[@ProjectFairmont]

Looks like a well built motor in terms of 4v valve-train, belt timing, and main caps.

[@mpetersen6]

The bottom end on these is pretty much standard for how modern aluminum blocks are made. The crank is a forged piece. Rods are powdered metal like every one else uses but I think iirc the rods after the sintering presses were forged. In terms of a 4 valve head it is not the standard way a 4 valve head is made. One thing I do not like on these engines is the cams run in the aluminum with no bearings. Everything on this engine with the exception of the sheet metal timing belt cover is either sand cast or diecast aluminum. The hlock is a high silicon aluminum alloy for strength.

[@hugoramos731]

why not rebuild the block ?

[@02zo6corvette]

How many miles on that engine? What was your oil pressure?

[@cardinaloflannagancr8929]

is it me or did the rocker arms look different colors on the 2 different banks.

[@rustycowll5735]

the only 340 with oem mechanical (adjustable) rockers was 340-six pack

[@xushenxin]

can it be fixed?

[@samscreativefarm]

buy a torque wrench, buy the right manual for the engine your working on, follow the instructions, measure things like engine bore and crankshaft gauge because you never know whats been machined before or if there has been wear. replace bearings and valve seals ect whilst you have the engine apart, always use a new head gasket. I noticed you where loosening bolts with power tools, you should use a breaker bar which will allow you to break the torque on the bolts slowly and is way better if bolts are rusty in any way. It's awesome that you want to learn about engines, just be careful driving with an engine that hasn't been properly built is very dangerous. I agree with an earlier comment they said keep your engine. everything looked great to me you just need to rebuild to factory specifications and take measurements and buy plus size rings and bearings where needed. even if it isn't perfect if you have everything torqued corectly than an engine failure will more than likely be safely contained. Good luck man, fixing cars is a very rewarding hobby and i respect your desire for personal developement/ self learning. thanks

[@MrGomoma]

should have check the oil pump sound like it ran out of oil pressure or did debris get into the system after first time it went down completely rekt

[@MattsMotorz]

I will! If I find anything interesting I will give you guys an update. Damn I wish I did that on this video.

[@MrGomoma]

true but if you lose flow you lose pressure and just manly wanted to see if there was debris in the system or alot of wear in the oil pump

[@johnpavon799]

Had a friend with a new product called Engine New, suppose to add metal to the worned parts, to improve compression which it did, but during a flood at work the custom ram air scoops sucked water into the Carb. and the engine stop in a puttle, even the Towl company could not get the rear wheels to move. Later during tear down the engine New product reacted violently to water rusting the crank solid all the bearing needed to be cold chisseled from the block. one solid rust junk! Yea! Great Product?

[@seapeddler]

I got 786 405 miles from the same engine.

[@vaballard1]

Wow!!!

[@rcchar]

I would like to see the oil pump inside. that engine looks like the oil pump failed. The bearing look like they were starved for oil.

[@MattsMotorz]

I will open it up and if there is anything worth showing, I will give you guys an update.

[@rcchar]

MattsMotorz cool

[@MattsMotorz]

***** You know, before I changed the heads, they were VERY sludged up. Not like visible sludge I had to scoop out, but rather when I put oil in it, it took a long time for it to get all down to the crank case.

[@DrMatt96]

awesome video, hope to see a rebuild video soon. that would be cool

[@markusdd5]

I don't think a rebuild would make sense in any way. That engine had huge amounts of metal put through it and the cost of restoring that crankshaft (if that is doable at all, it looked really bad) will most likely exceed the cost for a good low mileage replacement engine. To me it looks like that baby got run low on oil once, and as soon as you had that metal to metal contact somewhere, there's no stopping the demise. And the one piston looked like there was some metal pieces or even the valves that hit the top, maybe damage from a jumped timing belt or so...

[@coollasice4175]

Maybe it wouldn't make financial sense, but MattsMotorz has this channel to make videos and get views. Any KZbinr worth his subs should rebuild the motor and show why people should watch his vids and subscribe.

[@markusdd5]

I think you mistake Matt for an actual full time video producer. He films the stuff he gets his hands on. Nothing more. He is actually a student from what I understood in the diagnostic video.

[@Blazer02LS]

Not even close to being worth a rebuild. Just the machine work alone will cost more than a good engine. You would need an align bore to clean up the bearing saddles from the spun mains, regrind the crank, resize the rods, bore each cylinder at least .010 over. At the shop I normally use that alone will kill over $600.00 $ 400.00 for the rods/mains and ring/pistons $ 200.00 for an oil pump $ 175.00 for the timing kit So figure about $1,500.00 all in. For a car that is 16 years old and very rotted. OR he could go to a you pull it yard and take home a complete engine for under $300.00 OR he can have one setting on the pad for pick-up in Harrisburg or for $300.00 These days, unless it is a very special engine or one that you are building for a purpose it just doesn't make sense to do a full rebuild. Especially on a grocery getter that's seen better days.

[@MattsMotorz]

Yes Markus is right. I do this stuff in my spare time and don't have the funds for a rebuild. Also Blazer is spot on about it most certainly not being worth it (good break down!). Now that being said, I would love to be able to do a rebuild just for the experience and the videos, but it just isn't in the cards.

[@rambuseighty-eight8874]

This happens when you don't use a micrometer to check the crank diameter before a rebuild. Someone had this crankshaft turned .010 -.030" to clean up gouges/scratches/imperfections on the throws, and maybe the mains also. Then someone else used "standard" bearings.. Probably rods are weakened, crank is trashed(?), and pistons weakened also.KAPUT!

[@jackfisher3906]

The Old Adage "You Get What You Pay For" is usually correct with anything you buy.

[@laohantun7404]

Thanks Matt, I can see your zeal there. Thanks for the video. After being rebuilt, the baby will run perfect again. Love the Chrysler....

[@guraliuck]

How many miles on this engine?

[@marquisdexxx]

what is the mileage of the motor?

[@harvettbradford1860]

From what i can see it would appear that you have an OIL FALURE, or a lack of oil

[@re8672]

My 04 M Special (K motor) when I pulled it at 120k. For a fact, I ran it hot twice, months apart, though gauge never actually made it to the H (no telling as there was no coolant touching sending unit for it to read). Hint for me was a slight rod knock that was only present on the first start after oil change, which would then go away after a a few rotations of the engine. Ran this way on full syn oil for 30k until it eventually locked. Leave it 5 min and you could run it again. My motor looked worse than yours. Entire bottom end and front of left head/rocker asm were red/brown colored. All bearings in bottom wiped. Had to pry crank to free. Several cam lobes were scored. In the end, swapped with 60k used motor from standard M (G motor). Great coverage. Lots of info!

[@oscaralarcon6695]

Nice big job good luck?

[@larrytanner1001]

Put a half a quart of non detergent transmission fluid in it drive it about 50 miles when you tear the motor down it will be clean as a whistle I use it in all of my vehicles before every oil change

[@antoniomedina218]

How many miles?

[@JohnElHanafi]

Wish you lived around Philly and can help me rebuild my 3.5L 04 Pacifica! It should be fun!

[@bonegrubber]

I'm tearing into my 2004 Pacifica right now

[@gregbgregb8487]

Anybody on here know what all I would have to switch out to swap a 2.7 over to a 3.5 in a 07 dodge charger?

[@Animaniac_24]

Did you ever find out?

[@thirzapeevey2395]

I don't look at crank bearings every day either, but every one of them seems to be straw colored. When I made a bunch of knives a few years ago, I learned that it takes about 450 degrees to get steel to straw color, so that engine has been really, really hot. I believe they are supposed to run around 170-180. I believe you said something to Ivan about your girlfriend overheating it to failure three times, so I guess that explains the straw color.

[@adamc49735]

oil pump failed?

[@thecentralscrutinizer5105]

somebody didn't correctly torque down the bottom end on last rebuild ;)

[@shawnmcpeak7934]

Clear and simple....oil starvation. The block needs to be hot tanked and all oil passages painstakingly cleaned front-to-back and top-to-bottom....

[@isacoritay]

Un my 300m especial edition i got a knock sound, in the mechanical workshop, told me that is a problem with the tappets, but now i think is the sale problem as yours.So, fix that how much should cost? Its very expensive?If you dont wanna make prices público xD please send me a private message

[@randy1ization]

the cost..... A SHITLOAD!!!

[@shena839]

show how to properly time the 3.5L engine

[@MattsMotorz]

I do. It is in one of the videos of the head gasket job

[@samscreativefarm]

maybe your crankshaft has been machined before and you put standard bearings in without measuring the gauge of the crankshaft at the big end.

[@MattsMotorz]

I didn't do any engine rebuilding work to this. This is a postmortem after engine failure.

[@samscreativefarm]

Ok all good i thought you said it was you. Every thing i said is still good advice for anyone who wants to try a rebuild. I apologies

[@MattsMotorz]

No worries!

[@natalieharutyunyan9862]

Samuel Jones M

[@larrytanner1001]

If you will put about a half a quart of laundry detergent transmission fluid and the oil and drive it normally for about 50 miles and then drain the oil when you go to tear the motor down it will be clean as a whistle I do it before every oil change on all my vehicles

[@randy1ization]

WHERE do you buy laundry detergent transmission fluid, is it near the Tide at wallmart

[@Blazer02LS]

Lot's of melt-able pieces. Block and covers, oil pump, heads (unless they clean up). Pistons and rockers are different & better alloys than the block.

[@MattsMotorz]

Yup! I am contemplating selling the block for scrap and the heads on ebay though. I can get a decent amount of cash. The block would be too big to melt down anyway unless I cut it up, which is way too much work (at least with the equipment I have to do the cutting) I have SO much aluminum now, just from random brackets and such, as well as a few alloy wheels I have laying around. So I don't think I will be running out any time soon.

[@Blazer02LS]

Sledge makes them come apart easy. With the current scrap prices I don't even bother, I melt it down and cast ingots. Those you can sell online for much more than scrap, Just research what aluminum the company used. (most blocks are a 319 or A356)

[@MattsMotorz]

***** Great idea! Totally forgot about the sledge hammer. I think I will probably just melt it down then, because honestly the only thing holding me back was making it into smaller pieces.

[@Blazer02LS]

Sledge or wood splitting maul work great. I usually toss blocks/wheels into a campfire to "cook" the paint or oil off/out. Then break them up.

[@MattsMotorz]

***** Awesome! Thanks for the advice :D In the past I have used a circular saw to cut wheels. But it is scary as hell because if it catches on something it kicks out very hard.

[@bryanrothe4245]

You should never put in or take out bolts in a aluminum block with an impact.

[@MattsMotorz]

The engine is toast already! Lol

[@gizmothewytchdoktor1049]

composite gaskets are made to cover a multitude of sins tha people foist upon their sealing surfaces. that's why the residue left on the surfaces. metal gaskets are used where the mating surfaces are close to perfect like when heads and block are decked.

[@MattsMotorz]

Thanks for the comment! I learned something new!

[@gizmothewytchdoktor1049]

always happy to lend a hand. far too many years of doing this i think sometimes when i see a poor little piece of machinery turned to toast but they did have a lot of trouble with these engines. i sometimes think automated assembly isn't all it's cracked up to be. with these it seems to be not enough flow or oil pressure

[@DeadlyVoltsHD]

I've torn apart many engines the black oil is burnt as fuck it either ran low or had an oil pump fail same thing on my friends car when he raced knowing he had no oil

[@RonSovine]

thank you I live in Massachusetts I don't know where you live but I am looking for a mechanic I'm going to have to get the timing belt and all that stuff done but I thoroughly enjoy your videos and just subscribed thank you for your time you answered my question I really appreciate it

[@MattsMotorz]

No prob! Thanks for watching!

[@bonegrubber]

What was the engine mileage?

[@brandon18054]

He said 140k in another comment

[@htcooley04]

did he just rebuild it?

[@MattsMotorz]

Nope. I broke it up and melted it down in my home foundry.

[@StreamSniped688]

70% of these comments are people condescendingly explaining how he’s doing everything wrong

[@philipgarcia8761]

Can you send me this engine video actually?

[@primalmachine9059]

Bro when using a numatic, use pulses to remove bolts; dont just hold the hammer action down or risk rounding bolts.

[@romcapprotti7477]

First off every single rod that you moved had playing it it shouldn’t when you Took the first rod cap off you could see the copper which means the bearing is worn out no you can’t seeing the client down it needs to be turned. I can resize rods And get a crank kit

[@aleksandersafonchik5112]

What are engine? EGG?

[@antoniomancini8738]

I think that's what happens when you run your motor out of oil and overheat it cool video

[@jeremyrobinson6902]

I heard to never let dz engine idle for too long

[@RickSanchez-ew7fn]

25:58 criminal

[@RickSanchez-ew7fn]

Imagine a cop pulls you over for engine knock

[@RickSanchez-ew7fn]

Domestic abuse

[@AlphaFlight]

educational and scary at the same time. You never really know Whats going on in your block.