Wheel bearing preload set 14.5lb. 100 series Toyota Land Cruiser 4 of 6.

Sorry for wind noise & Video being cut short. Wheel bearing Preload of ~12.5lb, yielded 52ft-lbf of torque on adjusting nut. Then install lock washer. Then lock nut, torqueing to factory spec of 47ft-lbf. Which raised preload ~2lb, yielding a final preload of ~14.5lb. I then bent one tooth of lock washer over lock nut and one tooth over adjusting nut.
Read the FSM (Factory Service Manual), closely. While reading it. Do with the understanding. Preload is the goal, not torque of adjusting nut. Also we're instructed to check snap ring gap less than 0.20mm. Also pay attention to non reusable parts. I do reuse hub flanges 6 nuts, if they're in good condition. But I use medium thread sealer, on them.

[@jinekim3933]

Thanks for the video. You did an impeccable work.

[@memy895]

Your more than welcome.

[@markreynolds3850]

Nice job!

[@inyongmancing8532]

👍👍👍..gods for job

[@PaulFrancisAAA]

I just repacked my bearings and according to the FSM, I should 1st go 43 ft lbs on the tension nut, spin the wheel back/forth a few times, back off and then go to 38-57 INCH POUNDS to set pre load. When doing it this way, maxed out at 57 INCH POUNDS, my break away is around 1.1 lbs on the fish scale. The only way I can get to the recommended break away setting of 9.5-15 ft lbs on the fist scale is to massively increase the torque on the tension nut to around 45-50 ft lbs (like you did in this video). My dilema is... Do I MASSIVELY violate the FSM by cranking down on the tension nut in order to achieve the FSM break away spec... or... do I MASSIVELY undershoot the FSM break away spec while abiding by the FSM's 38-57 INCH POUND pre load spec? Doing it either way results in no play in the wheels and no binding. I also should note that I am running 1.5" spacers and heavy 35" tires on my 100 Series. Basically, with either option I'm out of line with the FSM by an order of magnitude. I'd love to hear your thoughts on why you chose to disregard the tension nut spec for pre load in order to achieve in spec break away spec. Thanks!

[@memy895]

Reading FSM in the proper light you'll see, 38-57 IN-lbf is only starting point after settle grease. Breakaway preload (pull on spring scale) is the goal. The cleaner and better condition the wheel bearings, the high the torque will end-up, to achieve 9.5-15LB pull on spring scale. It's also important to note: Ambient temperature, and that of grease, bearings and wheel hubs matters. I'm typically working with grease/bearing/wheel hub above 68F. If grease/wheel bearings/wheel hub to cold. We get a false high reading on spring scale, due to cold grease viscosity/thickening drag. With over-sized tires and or wheel spacers, I shoot for higher pull on spring scale near 15lb, and service wheel bearings sooner (25K miles) than the 30K miles Toyota recommends. Key to knowing if the wheel bearings tight enough and done soon enough, is claw washer. You will not see scoring on claw washer, if wheel bearing properly serviced.

[@PaulFrancisAAA]

@@memy895 - After driving for a couple hundred miles, I loosened the hubs back up, totally disregarded the 38-57 in-ibs. and solely focused on getting breakaway preload to 9.5-15 ft lbs. After buttoning everything back up, it doesn't feel any different while driving but I feel better about getting breakaway within spec. Thanks again for the tips!

[@memy895]

@@PaulFrancisAAA Had you not set preload to spec range, making wheel bearings tight. You would have felt difference, in 1K, 10k or 30K miles later, depending on how loose set. Than you'd likely damaged the claw washer, bearings, races and spindle. Loose wheel bearing start loosening themselves faster and faster, more and more, as do even properly set bearings. Properly set in a stock, we do service again each 30K miles, as they're getting loose. As they loosen, they eat into claw washer from vibration/chatter, which loosen them more creating more chatter and more and more cycle of loosening. To loose, ABS will activate ATAC on dry roads in turns or just uneven HWY pavement. Still even looser and hubs wobble so much, it can rip rotors from the wheel hub. Then wheel falls off! The clue you set properly. Is next service, the claw washer should not be scored. If scored, you set to loose or (built rigs) need to service sooner than 30K miles next time.

[@patrickguy8869]

Nice Vid... Very Helpful - What is the size of the bearing lock nut socket and who makes it?

[@memy895]

I see 54mm or 55mm stamp on various ones I have, They all work. None have manufactures name.

[@eddysilva7992]

good greetings excellent video I would like to know the name and model of the tool to measure the preload

[@memy895]

I measure breakaway preload, with a common digital fish scale.

[@marcfuentes2094]

Question...I set mine up exactly as you did, tension is perfect. I then installed the flange and the tension increased significantly. Is this normal/ok?

[@memy895]

Yes, Once hub flange install, wheel hub then engages axle of front drive shaft (aka CV). So now your turning the drive-train through to transmission.

[@marcfuentes2094]

@@memy895 After I sat and thought about the mechanism, it occurred to me this was likely the cause of the increased tension. Thank you for confirming, and for your highly informative and helpful videos and responses!

[@crazyyakuza8741]

How come when I search for the rear bearing , it’s shows a seal bearing instead of the needle bearing with the race .

[@jdmgm6765]

quick question can I change the top king pin bearing without dissembling the whole axle ?

[@memy895]

no bearing is called "king pin" . If you're asking about outer wheel bearing, then NO. Bearings are match to their race. The race and bearing need replaced together.

[@jdmgm6765]

@@memy895 sorry to bother I meant to say can I just replace the upper trunion bearing the two 17mm on top knuckle

[@memy895]

@@jdmgm6765 There is nothing called trunion bearing, nor any 17mm bearing. If your speaking about the upper ball joint, which attaches to UCA (upper control arm) and top end on steering knuckle, then YES. Toyota Ball joint comes with UCA as does the two bushing of UCA. UCA arm can be removed without removing axle (front drive shaft ), steering knuckle or wheel hub. I suggest you get a copy of the FSM (factory service manual). There's many PDF copies floating around the internet, of FSM. Or at minimum look at parts diagram, to get proper name of parts. This will reduce confusion. Try putting your VIN # here for parts diagrams: www.partsouq.com

[@jdmgm6765]

@@memy895 I'm so stupid I was referring to the 80 series land cruiser

[@memy895]

@@jdmgm6765 I was wondering if not 100 series, you've been referring to. I only work on 100 and 200 series USA models. Anything else I've no knowledge of. Are you working on a 100 series or 80?

[@geriatricpearl]

are the wheel bearings side-specific? i just ordered 2x 90080-36098 and 2x 90368-45087 but now im worried i messed up.

[@memy895]

No, but keep races with their matched bearings.

[@geriatricpearl]

@@memy895 what if I got new races too? new races aren't side-spcific are they?

[@memy895]

@@geriatricpearl New bearings come with races. No not side specific.

[@superdave4543]

This goes against everything I've read on the subject. Your final torque of 52 ft lbs on the inner nut is crazy high. But I understand you are going for the fish scale spec. I still don't know what method to trust. Torque spec range, by feel, or fish scale method.

[@memy895]

Trust the FSM (Factory Service Manual). Which means what it says and says what it means! If you read the FSM, with the understanding. "It's the preload (spring scale) that is the goal". It will be clear to you! You'll see the FSM, first instruct us "2. ADJUST PRELOAD (a) 43ft-lbf torque on adjusting nut. (b) spin to settle wheel bearings. (c) back-off adjusting nut. (d) retorque to 38-57INCH-lbf (~3ft-lbf). (e) adjust preload to 9.5-15lbf with spring scale. (3) Then lock nut to 47ft-lbf. Then in, HINT: "Make sure to check preload in direction of rotation. If preload is not within specified value, adjust it again with the adjusting nut". I've found that if you just torque to ~3ft-lbf, the claw washer becomes scored (grooved) very rapidly due to chatter (vibration). The groove on claw washer, result in wheel bearings loosening even more and faster. Then chatter increases as bearing loosen more, deepening groove in claw washer. If we do as FSM instructs, setting preload. The claw washer will not be grooved at next 30K miles, during PM of wheel bearings service. BTW: I've hit as high as 81ft-lbf of torque on adjusting nut of wheel bearing, to get 12.5lbf breakaway preload. The better the wheel bearings, the higher the toque ends up. Bearings love it! Bearings, races & Claw washer will look perfect 30K miles later. Not adjusting wheel bearings to preload of ~12.5lbf, not replacing lock-washer, snap ring and grease cap, and not gapping snap ring to spec. Are all very common bad practices and mistakes, during wheel bearing service. Don't just go by what you read and see in countless internet postings. Go by the 100 series bible (FSM). The FSM does have mistakes, this is not one of them.

[@slowazbmwkilla3073]

If I have play in the hub does thst,mean the preload is not in spec ?

[@memy895]

Correct. Bearings probably to lose, which causes chatter (vibration). Bearing will then eat into claw washer, scoring it. This increase play. Flip claw washer so good side in, or just replace it when you repack your bearings.

[@lorenpotter868]

like the need to breathe in back ground

[@memy895]

Radio station picks song! Only station on in my shop.

[@thunhu5292]

Love you.