AC. IDK where horn relay is or if one. Check your fuse box lid, for info. Also check fuses in junction box, in footwell.

Nope! It's a ProCut built trolley.

The press "tool", are from Power Built kit 46, Which is listed in video description! The press vise (C-clamp) tool, has a 19mm 6 point head on the end of the acme thread screw.

@@memy895 thanku😆

That's normal for 198K miles. Not bad, but replacing them, will reduce play a little.

It's OEM. I didn't know "AM" available. I use Toyota OEM or OEM for most all parts. It's possible, the "AM" you found is OEM (Just not Toyota). Toyota requires a higher standard, for their name on parts. But not having "Toyota", but still OEM, doesn't always mean not as good. Let us know if you buy one.

No, but keep races with their matched bearings.

@@memy895 what if I got new races too? new races aren't side-spcific are they?

@@geriatricpearl New bearings come with races. No not side specific.

No!

I only use what's there, as shown!

Trust the FSM (Factory Service Manual). Which means what it says and says what it means! If you read the FSM, with the understanding. "It's the preload (spring scale) that is the goal". It will be clear to you! You'll see the FSM, first instruct us "2. ADJUST PRELOAD (a) 43ft-lbf torque on adjusting nut. (b) spin to settle wheel bearings. (c) back-off adjusting nut. (d) retorque to 38-57INCH-lbf (~3ft-lbf). (e) adjust preload to 9.5-15lbf with spring scale. (3) Then lock nut to 47ft-lbf. Then in, HINT: "Make sure to check preload in direction of rotation. If preload is not within specified value, adjust it again with the adjusting nut". I've found that if you just torque to ~3ft-lbf, the claw washer becomes scored (grooved) very rapidly due to chatter (vibration). The groove on claw washer, result in wheel bearings loosening even more and faster. Then chatter increases as bearing loosen more, deepening groove in claw washer. If we do as FSM instructs, setting preload. The claw washer will not be grooved at next 30K miles, during PM of wheel bearings service. BTW: I've hit as high as 81ft-lbf of torque on adjusting nut of wheel bearing, to get 12.5lbf breakaway preload. The better the wheel bearings, the higher the toque ends up. Bearings love it! Bearings, races & Claw washer will look perfect 30K miles later. Not adjusting wheel bearings to preload of ~12.5lbf, not replacing lock-washer, snap ring and grease cap, and not gapping snap ring to spec. Are all very common bad practices and mistakes, during wheel bearing service. Don't just go by what you read and see in countless internet postings. Go by the 100 series bible (FSM). The FSM does have mistakes, this is not one of them.

I would not apply gasket to wet FIPG. Coolant will get under the excess FIPG, resulting in pitting over time. You need to address why you're have trouble sealing.

thanks for the input ! im pretty sure the pitting is worse than what your video is showing . can the FIPG be sanded so it is as flat as possible ? im no expert but research has shown the block surface " should , needs to be as flat as possible " for the steel gasket . A mechanic recommended a similar process to your own but with JB weld then sanded flat and a " thick " paper gasket . this is my daily and i dont want to do this again ! @@memy895

Hi Nick, I suggest you stop by. Let me inspect some warm dry day in my driveway. I doubt you need all those parts replaced. As I recall, I installed used OEM FDS (CV') that were in good condition. Along with new side diff seals for FDS. Repacked bearings and replaced rotors (OEM). But did not do a steering knuckle service. In this case, you have factory axle bearing and brass bushing. Which I may have used the Slee spindle lube tool. Or may have just clean & press new grease with my fingers, from back side while FDS out. I've an extra Slee spindle lube Tool, if you'd like to stop by (borrow or buy). I would suggest, with new OEM FDS You replace diff side seals and install new axle bearings and brass bushing in back of knuckle. I do like, new hub flanges with new OEM FDS. But if splines & surfaces of old hub flange in very good condition, you can reuse them. Unless you've had and accident, that's bent or damaged steering knuckle. They'd not likely be in need of replacing. Just recondition them. I've 4 recondition knuckles, on the shelve now. Hubs (wheel hubs), which housing wheel bearing. Are not often in need of replacing, unless badly damaged, which yours were not. I'd also doubt your rotors need replacing at this time unless you've over 180K miles since I installed yours, or you have damaged them. I now have a OTV brake lathe, I can turn rotors if needed on the vehicle.

YES! But this is simply one method, the FSM (Factory Service Manual) method. For popping FDS from front differentials. The intend is for repair or replacement. The "why" one would want to make RWD only. Would be key to how. Temporary to get home, sure. Long term there are different ways. Like locking front hubs, removing forward propeller shafts, reaming out teeth of hub flange, etc.. Nothing I can help with.

It is sweet, You're welcome.

You're welcome! The owner of that 05 has been happy. Interestingly I pressed out the #1 bushings from those LCA recently. It was so frozen in, it bent my 20 ton press lower cross bar. Even heat didn't help free those bushings. The drift I had made from old USA 3/4 socket, to press out these bushing. Work great, not being damage in the slightest.

That is a great testament to your design.@@memy895

Spins without resistance, yes replace.

In the 100 & 105 series Toyota/Lexus calls it, Front Drive shaft Assembly. It 's comprised of inner, center and outer axle and inner and out CV w/boots & clamps to retain the CV grease. CV is an abbreviation for Constant Velocity joint. The aft & forward propeller shafts (AKA drive shafts) as they're called by Toyota in the 100 series. Connect between transfer case & differential(s). Has spiders (AKA U-joints or universal joint) at each end with lube/grease zerks. Also the propeller shafts each have a slide yoke, also with a lube/grease zerk. Knowing the proper names, helps when looking up info in the Factory Service Manual (AKA: FSM, Toyota repair manual, Field Service Manual, Shop Manual)) and order parts at Toyota web pages. Type CV in search of a PDF FSM, Technical Information System (TIS ) portal or Toyota online parts, nothing comes up!

I replace almost all FB, while doing timing belt/WP.

By "it" you mean the two bushings. No! It's possible to replace them, without removing Rack & pinion. Glade The videos help!

@@memy895 thank you!

The UBJ can be replaced. But Toyota only sells, with UCA. We've been replacing with 555 UBJ.

LT Fuel trim around 7%, Compression was not checked. IDK about Oil consumption, at it was not mention to me.

A newly purchased, off Amazon, from Owiik. Used with cable to smart phone, etc . The Oiiwak 360° 4 Ways Articulating Borescope, 6mm IP67 camera. He's (Owiik) has a FB page, and has been very responsive to questions. There are two seller on Amazon of the 360 Bore-scope. Owiik gave the best discount. There is another model these are likely copied from. It has LED screen attached (no smart phone needed). It's likely better resolution and control, but cost more.

Sorry I loaned it out, so can't give measurements. But, simple get a new bushing, to use for sizing the drift. Find a 3/4 drive socket with same ID or larger, to use as drift. BTW some have found off the shelve sockets, that work without machining. Take to machine shop, that can grind hardened steel. For the thread rod, use 9 grade or harder. Best would be Acme Lead Screws and Nut.

Sorry no! Some have found off-the-shelve sockets or drifts from press kits, that fit well. A little heat on housing (frame) can also help free stuck bushing.

I've only done while replacing LCA. I could have left in knuckle, wheel hub and FDS (axle), I suppose.

I've not! It's interesting you can use OEM boots. But why have you had to reboot? Are these made in China?

@@memy895 Typically rubber boots that Masuma ball joints packaged with are substandard quality, while ball joint itself is decent. And once you get this combo (ball joints with OEM boots) installed, it's good for 60k-80k miles or so. Yes, I think this is chinese brand. I've got couple Masuma LBJs to install once my OEM ball joints go bad, and will report on result, if you're interested.

@@FlyingDreaming Sure always interested in how long any ball joints last. But as a general rule, I avoid any product made in China. I have seen 555 boots with holes, in only 5K miles. But in every case I could track down installer, they did not remove boot to install. I think for cost, 60K miles is okay. But OEM are the best, which we only get buying the whole OEM LCA. I've a video on installing the #2 bushing and LCA also. That is the best. But cost 10X!

​@@memy895 I'll let you know how Masuma is doing as a temporary solution. My mileage is a bit too low to replace control arms as a whole, but I am definitely considering this for 200k mile service. What would be the consequence of lower ball joint failure on 100 series? Would you expect knuckle to separate from control arm? Would wheel go off as well? I can handle some squeak. Wheel separation - not so much.

@@FlyingDreaming Total failure YES, knuckle separates from control arm. Some or all control of steering is lost, but wheel/tire stays on wheel hub/knuckle. But that's is rare. As one has steering issues and often sounds long before that happens, that alert the driver.

Accumulator. It does come with Master, when the whole master (Brake master with booster assembly) is orders from Toyota/Lexus.

Dangerous!

@@memy895 And expensive. Loose wheel destroyed steering knuckle and everything hub related.

@@FlyingDreaming Loose wheel bearing can be very damaging, as you know! I'll bet your rotor disk separated from the rotor hat.The video is one, that was about to loose both wheels while driving. Both rotor disk and caliper were badly damaged, from wobble of wheel hub. Because of braking issues, owner thought he just needed new brakes and rotors. He tied DIY! He didn't know what he was seeing, so sent me pictures. I saw in a picture, the wheel hubs oil seal in backward. I've now seen the same, in a few 100 series. But this video is of one, that most every part of wheel bearing service done wrong. I've 2 more videos on same rig, of some of the disassembly. It had about $7K damage. Which had the wheels come off on a mountain pass, this could have been deadly!

@@memy895 Incredible. I might consider myself lucky that I limited my financial damage to $1.5k. What I found interesting, is that besides obvious signs of failing bearing like screeching sounds when turning, my brake pedal became very soft and spongy and I've noticed grease leaking out of grease cap. Didn't make it to the service shop, unfortunately. Thank you for all your videos and information. I am big fan of your Ih8mud maintenance section:)

I just phone in order, then pick up the 555 SB3812 at my local NAPA.

What is?

New factory control arms.

Yes! As stated above: Warped brake rotor. OTV lathe corrected.

Sergo, You've seem to miss the propose of "pulling axle" to settle grease between brass bushing & back of axle face before gaping to factory spec. In practical application, "dead tight" doesn't happen. When checking/setting gap by the book (100 series Factory service manual (FSM)). We always go with thickest snap ring we can to ensure gap less than 0.20 mm gap. Also worth a note: We never reuse old snap ring, even if gap in spec. If new snap ring selected, is so tight we've zero gap (dead tight), it will not go on axle without pounding (not recommended) into groove. But if pounded in axle groove, so we've zero gap. The brass bushing will just wear slightly, once vehicle driven and gap will increase.The FSM states: "Pull out the drive shaft to the outside of vehicle and select the snap ring which ensures the clearance between the tip of the flange and the snap ring is less than 0,2 mm." It than gives a table of all snap rings. Each of the 6 snap rings in the table that Toyota sell, is 0.20mm thicker than proceeding. They start at 1.8 mm (thinnest) and end at 2.8 mm (thickest). Note: "gap less than 0.20mm", leaves gap of 0.01mm in tightest case.

I measure breakaway preload, with a common digital fish scale.