Wheel Hub Bearing Removal with Lisle 40100 Hub Removal Tool

[@SuperKONR]

That sure beats a hammer and a torch! I still don't miss working on FWD cars though lol. Have to do the wheel bearings on a friend's Saturn soon, everything is pressed together instead of bolted into the knuckle. I think there's a tool to do them but I've always just pulled the strut and knuckle as one piece and stuck the whole mess in the hydraulic press, so it doesn't need an alignment afterwards. Maybe I should just look for the tool this time LOL.

[@HowardGoldman]

Perhaps we can wedge a spacer between the splash shield and the solid surface so that pressure can be applied safely through the splash shield when necessary.

[@Krankie_V]

@@HowardGoldman that should work

[@trondfiskeseth2559]

tip: use a steel plate on the caliper attachment to distribute the pressure from the tool

[@Krankie_V]

@trondfiskeseth2559 that is a good idea!

[@MattsRageFitGarage]

I may have to buy that someday. I helped my coworker rebuild the front end on his 2010 Chrysler T&C and the front right wheel bearing failed catastrophically, I got that one out with my big axle slide hammer without much fuss. Decided to put a new bearing hub in the driver side but gave up since it was still good and we were running out of time, that thing didn't want to budge at all. That front right bearing was so bad the lugnuts burned me when I dropped them out of the impact socket into my hand, wasn't expecting that.

[@Krankie_V]

This tool is a huge time saver. I use it all the time at work. I finally ordered one for home after I had two people ask me to change wheel bearings for them at home. We have one of those "hub shocker" tools at work also, the one you bolt to the hub and whack with a hammer. This one is easier to use, though.

[@bobbyu8991]

This tool has failed to remove the last two I did this tool is junk will damage spindles if this works you didn't need it in the first place will not remove badly stuck bearings

[@Krankie_V]

@@bobbyu8991 I'm going with user error.... I have used this tool on very stuck bearings without damaging anything. You're doing something wrong.

[@philliplopez8745]

Tool trucks are more finance companies then tool sellers . A service that is both needed and unfortunate .

[@Krankie_V]

@philliplopez8745 that's one way to look at it for sure.

[@AnimeBaller22]

Hi Krankie, I a saw a comment of your about fixing a stolen kia in your shop. May I ask how much it costs/how easy is it to fix just to get the car running again? Mine wouldn't start but I don't know if that's because the electricals we unplugged or whatever they did. Thanks

[@Krankie_V]

I believe it was around 2000$ but can't be certain. The billing is not my job, and it was handled by insurance anyway. That car started and ran just fine though. Just a lot of damage to the steering column

[@elmayimbe_the_amateur_mechanic]

1000lb-ft cordless impact should work with this right?

[@Krankie_V]

@elmayimbe_the_amateur_mechanic it works, but be careful because if you just go to town on it, it's possible to cause damage. Normally I just use a ratchet so I can feel what's going on

[@elmayimbe_the_amateur_mechanic]

@@Krankie_V , thanks. I have 2 of the same cars. A 2002 and 2005 Infiniti Q45. Here in San Diego so no rust. The 2005 needs a ton of work and has sat for a year. I have had all 4 hubs and both LCA's for over a year now. Gonna experiment on the 2005 with this. If it goes well I will just leave the old hubs on and put the new ones on my 2002. Thanks.

[@Krankie_V]

@@elmayimbe_the_amateur_mechanic with no rust, you probably don't even need this tool

[@elmayimbe_the_amateur_mechanic]

@@Krankie_V, I did rusty front hubs on a 2013 Ford Explorer from Virginia. Scared mr for life. I am using this thing for sure. I want this to be as easy as possible.

[@tianic]

not recommended to put rod against the caliper hole, the hole might just break, then you'll need a new knockle or find a way to wield it back. I've already broken one when I did exactly the same thing, painful experience.

[@Krankie_V]

@tianic you have to know when to stop. That's literally where the company who makes the tool shows it being used. Damage is possible but can be avoided by being careful

[@rickroel4994]

Would this work on a rear Subaru bearing?

[@Krankie_V]

@rickroel4994 I have used it several times for that. The matco salesman claims that every tech in the local subaru dealership bought one.

[@hammer49946]

Subaru wheel bearings are the great equalizer when it comes to techniques to remove.

[@DaDaDo661]

Are you in the rust belt?

[@Krankie_V]

Big time. Upstate NY

[@papabits5721]

That was stuck

[@Krankie_V]

@papabits5721 I just used it today on an Explorer with hubs which were easily stuck twice as hard, and it made things easy peasy.

[@nazigrammar9728]

This tool is almost useless, at least for most of knuckles(backing plates or caliper mounts will get a damage)

[@Krankie_V]

Not true.... I have used it many times without damage

[@nazigrammar9728]

@@Krankie_V I've just checked on Amazon and many people said the thread on a rod is so weak, even on an item it's described as Upgraded. Where did you get urs from?

[@Krankie_V]

@@nazigrammar9728 I bought my own from rockauto and thr ship I work in has one that came from matco tools

[@DaDaDo661]

What's worse? Ruining a cheap back plate? Or giving up and bringing the car to a shop that will charge you $500? I don't understand the backing plate argument, just cut it off, buy another one or don't put it back on

[@nazigrammar9728]

@@DaDaDo661 many backing plates are not available. Many of them are crazy expensive, even older Toyota's. I work for a small used car dealership, so I know what I'm talking about