How to Remove Stubborn Toyota 20R - 22R - 22RE Crankshaft Pulley Bolt 1979 - 1995

A long (but detailed) video on the tips and tricks I've learned over the years on how to remove stubborn crankshaft pulley bolts on Toyota 22R series engines. (22R 22RE 22RET)
By far, the best way would be to have the SST (shop specific tool) that Toyota recommends, but not many folks (me included) has one of those in their garage. This is a video of some of the tips and tricks that I've learned over the years on getting this sometimes EXTREMELY stubborn bolt to come out.
The most common reason that you need to be able to get this bolt out is so that you can access the front main seal on the front end of the crankshaft. Most older Toyotas develope an oil leak through the seal. Oil works past the worn-out seal and then gets flung around the front of the engine and engine bay by the crankshaft pulleys. It's really a pretty easy fix for a very messy problem...if you can get the crankshaft pulley bolt off in order to access the seal.

[@Camker001]

You're a bloody legend mate. Couldn't budge my 22r pulley bolt until I learned your trick with the drift. I still had to put a 4 foot bar over my breaker bar but it came off eventually. Thanks mate.

[@worldpeace32]

i just used your technic about 30 minutes ago n it worked . i can't thank u enough man, lucky 4 me the pulley was easily removed

[@dirtylu79]

After 10 years.. the front main seal is starting to leak.. l already seen the seal video.. thanks brotha... excellent videos..

[@sleekitwan]

You have a great, warm, delivery demeanour, makes it easy to listen to. Some people are plain hard on the senses. The assortment of methods is useful - otherwise I have to buy a special toblerone-shaped thing with a slot up towards one apex, and teeth in it about 4, occupying the flat opposite this apex. I have never bought the same car twice (keep them too long) so it's not just the irritating cost, it's the ordering-in time and waiting for the thing, and every cambelt kit says these toblerone bits are optional - way bad since I only find that out now I got the wife's Renault in bits...!

[@dreadlockedgypsy]

Thank you! I struggled for the better part of an afternoon and broke my 19mm socket followed by my 2ft breaker bar. I was desperate, thank the Toyota God's the drift method worked when all else failed. Again, thank you!

[@CarlosHernandez-bp4ul]

I have seen numerous ways of doing this in KZbin. Including using the starter, which i am reluctant to do. But this method seems to be the way it is supposed to be done. Thanks for uploading this. Glad i found this video!

[@laddanator]

Thanks, one step ahead of you. Meant to post back last night that I finally got it out. I heated the heck out of it and I used a powerful jumper box hooked to the batt to give it some extra power when I bumped the starter over and the bolt broke loose. Thanks for this video by the way.

[@adamr8628]

I finally got mine. On a Toyota with a 22 mm bolt. To get friction on the pulley, I tried different ways to bend the drive belt over itself, which was extra challenging because it is a short belt that doesn't serpentine. Even tried a long belt off a different vehicle but it was wider so it didn't grab the pulley grooves correctly. Finally, after experimenting with different ways to anchor the belt, I used 2 socket extensions to hold the end loops of the belt and had enough slack to fold the belt under itself on the crank pulley. It broke loose immediately with my 3/4 drive breaker bar and about 4 ft or so of leverage from my floor jack handle. Amazing how that rubber belt wedges itself and locks the pulley down solid. .

[@garrigproductions]

OMG!!, I can't believe you're suggesting that 'starter bump' method without warning viewers there is a very real possibility that the end of the bolt can shear off completely!. That's exactly what happened to me with my Toyota 2C-T engine, I was left with a stub sticking out of the end of thr crankshaft! Thankfully the stub was just long enough to grasp with a good pair of mole-grips, but it fought me all the way out for two days before I won with plenty of penetration fluid and some heat...

[@cartoonist1975]

Thank You for taking your time and making this video. I do have a 22re inside a 85 Celica so this is great !

[@darensefcik9074]

Awesome...! The drift method worked perfect and it did not damage my dust cover...thanks so much..!!

[@ethrty320i]

watched this video for a crank bolt on Toyora 2E engine, really didnt want to use the starter bump method, but decided to in the end, and definately helped loosen it up. and its off now, I dont have an impact/rattle gun so thanks

[@steviebm6]

Sound like very great methods. I will have to try a few today. I have a Cressida with a very stubborn bolt. Thanks for the video

[@outof86]

Torque wrench with 19mm on the pulley bolt. Bungee under frame worked first try. Small bang then success! Coil disconnected. Thanks WP.

[@TurboJohn74]

I want to say thank you Pete! I bought an expensive 20v Lithium Impact gun for this job and many others. Long story short, the gun had 0 effect on that bolt, lol! (~350ft-lbs tq) So I had recalled your video, and was saved by a Dodge exhaust stud with the nut still on. (I miss you Shelby Daytona!) Using torch heat and your jam method, it's off now, with only slight bending of the dust cover. Now moving on to removing the VC and timing cover, carefully.

[@bryangoss3128]

Thank you for the video. It word great. I would suggest try using a flat peace of metal to stick through the pulley. I used one that was one inch wide by 1/8 inch thick. I did not have any damage to the dust cover, even though I had to use a 1/2inch breaker bar with another 2 foot long cheater bar to get it to turn.

[@CaucasianBushhead]

Got r' did. Used a 3/8 extension to lock keep the pulley from moving. After I quit bending screw drivers, and used the extension the bolt came out pretty easy. My battery didn't have enough juice for the starter trick, and my impact driver was too big to fit in front of the engine. Thanks a lot WheeliePete! Oh yeah, I drove almost 2,000 miles with a broken chain guide, and my bolts that hold the guide against the block were shaven down quite a bit. Tomorrow I have to figure out how to get one of them out.

[@MrProp46]

what i found to use an impact driver on that bolt because theres not enough room because of the cross bar. with rad out just get a bi metal hole saw and drill thur the cross member and a long extension on the impact gun ... you wont see the hole once its reassembled.... i want to say i drilled an inch dia hole. but no... both my electric and air impact wrench never budged it

[@mattlindsayb9856]

All super info. thankyou all. stocking up my brain and expecting the worst. surprised no mention of taking off the oil pan and putting a hammer handle between the connecting rod journal and the block.

[@jameswirtz8896]

Great video! Very straight forward and informative! Good video &pics also. Thank you for that!!!

[@derekadams729]

That is a lot of nice tips. I have seriously tight pulley bolt on my mobile home. Thanks for these tips.

[@dsundlof]

Great idea! I employed the breaker bar method and bumped the starter. One second and I was done. I went to school for auto mechanics and never would have thought up this idea. Thank you so much. Dave

[@flaurosdagon6799]

92 Toyota Pickup 4 cyl.. Harmonic Balancer bolt Hell.. First used a pipe wrench to hold the pulley in place, and used a 19mm socket, breaker bar, and ratchet. Both bent the pulley and rounded the bolt. then tried the bump start method with the pipe wrench on the now rounded off bolt, along with bump starting... 19mm bolt is now about a 16mm now after about five attempts. pulled the first pulley off and discovered the inside pulley is forged, so used a 30lbs pipe to beat the pulley into pieces around said bolt, using an angle grinder, sliced a groove in bolt and said pipe and a sledge hammer on just the leading edge of the cut to literally bang the bolt off. RIP: 2 ratchets 5 sockets 4 knuckles 15 ml blood 3 toes (pipe landed on my foot) 2 pulleys 1 bolt Result: Success.

[@wenzenuf221]

Flauros Dagon wtf

[@reapz3621]

Oh my

[@davidhulsey3584]

2005 Chevy Colt 2.2 timing chain removel

[@BryanFlores775WW]

Do you know what the size is for that puller ?

[@BoneHeadOffroading]

Great video man. Good explanation on all the methods. Helped a lot :)

[@WheeliePete]

@griffintready I actually just remove the entire oil pump body to replace the front main oil seal. It's a lot easier to remove the seal and to install it if the oil pump (in which the front main seal is located) if you're not having to work around the crankshaft sticking out through the middle of the seal.

[@Mr2pint]

I like the chain method to hold the pulley in place; a bit hard to do with the engine out though, no anchor point - nice video... cheers!

[@JonniCollins]

Howdy, appreciate the video; found it while searching for a solution to my problem which is... yeah. Anyway my daughter tore up my car and apparently the timing belt ripped in half underneath. The child decided to pull the belt out without doing ANY of the removal steps...broke the timing cover... sheesh. I've got the wheel off and motor mount out (1994 Ford Escort 1.9 liter), etc but I ran into an issue here that I am disabled and trying to do this by myself, as I have no one to help. Of course without the belt and such, it turns the crankshaft. I have tried wedging everything I can find in there without buggering up the teeth, but trying to hold a length of metal and break loose a crankshaft pulley bolt... not so much. I LOVE the starter bump idea and can't believe I didn't think of that but again... in her infinite wisdom, she ran my battery down as well, so not sure I can get enough bump to get it out. I am indeed in a pickle and as this is in my front yard in the dirt and grass and I do not have access to an oxy/acetylene torch, or an impact etc... any ideas for me?

[@JonniCollins]

+Jonni Collins P.S. Yes a Ford is not a Toyota, but the basic premise is the same and it is also a 19 mm bolt set u p the same way... except sideways -_-

[@WheeliePete]

@raganriley Yes the front main seal is easy to replace. I would recommend that you pull the oil pump off though to replace the front main seal. it's easier to drive it in perfectly if the crankshaft isn't poking through. Oil pump is easy to take off once you have the crankshaft pulley out of the way. I once had one that was so stubborn I welded a 1/2 drive socket to the crankshaft pulley bolt. The heat from welding loosened it right up. :-)

[@lordmatix3]

THANKS for this video!! Couldn't get that F'n thing to budge. Got it... using your 3/8 extension method. Never considered doing it that way. Thanks again!

[@WheeliePete]

Ahh, good deal. Amazing how expanding the metal with some heat can give it just the little bit it needs to finally break loose.

[@glennaguon5165]

Thanks for the tips and tricks. Doing a timing job.

[@SodumbChloride]

Great video, however when I went to take mine off on my 20r, it was already gone! Haha. So I'm mainly looking at this for re-torquing cause it's been some years since I did this on my 22r. Now I need a new bolt and woodruff... Thankfully the crank, and pulley keyways weren't damaged.

[@gkugansivam5394]

Very great and best video tips for me to this time...Thanks Very much

[@josellynmoreno9853]

Very detailed videos. Thanks!

[@smaqdaddy]

Great vid brother!

[@jamy41]

Ive been working on Toyota engines for 40 years, The absolute best way to break the pulley bolt free is to heat it slightly with a heat gun and then use a breaker bar, after bolt is out spray penetrating oil in bolt hole and heat again to remove pulley, works every time.

[@barrymonroy7138]

Thank you sir 🙏. This help alot. Really appreciate it..

[@Arriolaa]

Thank you!! Very helpful bro.

[@georgepope3878]

THANKS FOR THE GREAT TIPS.

[@joselollopez59]

VERY GOOD VIDEO, WELL INSTRUCTIONS THANK YOU SO MUCH. MUY BUEN VIDEO FANTASTICAS INSTRUCCIONES MUCHAS GRACIAS DE PARTE DE JOSELO

[@kelhawk1]

If you use the starter bump technique make absolutely certain that the breaker handle is square with the socket.

[@WheeliePete]

Good timing on your comment. I'm working on a starter bump method video right now and yes, you have to make sure you have a solid interface with the bolt and the socket and the handle needs to be squared up. The method in this video is for when you don't have the ability to crank the engine over.

[@jccjr8846]

Excellent Warming !

[@aznazguy]

@WheeliePete Thanks Pete, but as I mentioned it is an automatic (torque plate not flywheel) so I can't use the high gear/brake method to hold the crank fixed. Not sure what to do. Might have to rent/borrow/buy/fab a pulley holding tool?

[@etran2719]

Thanks Pete nice video

[@pedrotalavera8539]

nice job welding the bolt to the socket

[@moquiti]

Is there a fuse for the fuel pump that can be pulled, along with the coil wire? It's getting a little wet in here.

[@KerbsterCrushtic]

I used an impact and a few seconds. It has to be a strong impact. I used the street legal thundergun. It took it off quick, whereas with a breaker bar and a 24mm wrench as a cheater I was bending the engine stand it was on.

[@deponzi]

Great video any tips for removing the crankshaft pulley bolt on an automatic Transmission ?

[@rexterry1654]

HEY MAN, just tried that first trick with to loosen the bolt by resting a breaker bar... Setting up on the bottom left as you've shown actually left to tightening. Setting the breaker bar on the top of the right side below the air filter is actually what loosened it up. -94 Toyota pickup, 22re

[@WheeliePete]

Are you talking about the bump-start method? It actually doesn't matter where you set the breaker bar as long as it (and the crankshaft pulley bolt) can't move when the engine turns over. The 22R series engine spins clockwise as you face it so holding the crankshaft bolt still in any position with a breaker bar while you turn the engine over will effectively unscrew the bolt. (If you're facing the engine and it's spinning clockwise, the (held stationary) crankshaft pulley bolt is effectively being turned counter-clockwise or lefty-loosey.) Here's a video of mine with actual footage of the bump-start/breaker bar method: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oZzIdaGJmqh4pac

[@Steve-wx1gk]

That's Awesome, thanks mate

[@gmartinezfuster]

Do you have the outer pulley (crankshaft pulley no.2) that bolts to the existing crankshaft pulley? I am looking everywhere as am converting to PS and that's the only piece am missing.

[@lancesandford1628]

Hey, do you remeber the name of that strap wrench (where you got it maybe or, better yet a link)

[@rudymartinez9976]

Breaker Bar - !!! Crank the motor. Mechanic!!!!! LOve You. A Miracle. --Thank You---

[@WheeliePete]

Yep, that works too. Video on that method here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oZzIdaGJmqh4pac

[@WheeliePete]

I once had one that was so stuck I cracked an impact socket trying to get the bolt off. I ended up welding the socket to the bolt head and then it came right out. The heat from the weld loosened up the bolt. Had to get a new bolt of course...

[@jessejms55]

If your not pulling the head but already have the valve cover off, i have always stuck a long 3/8's extenstion through the holes in the timing chain cam gear and used a long ass breaker bar... always worked for me

[@pedrotalavera8539]

great video

[@larrystarkey3148]

Many years ago before we had the internet I was stuck trying to remove the bolt from a Honda Prelude. I could not use the starter method because the motor was reverse rotation. After several days of trying I finally removed the oil pan and jammed a 2x4 in to hold the crank still and broke it loose with a super long bar. Back then I did not even think of using heat but that probably would have worked.

[@toyotalandcruiser8248]

Heat from a torch if u got one is sorta the same as the last one good tricks thanks

[@Mechanic1307]

I did a lot of reading before trying the 'scary' starter bump method. Bungeed the breaker bar to the passenger side frame member, disconnected the coil wire, and just Barely tapped the starter. The bolt broke loose with a pop, no damage to anything (including the tools). Just enough to break the torque. Thinking of making a crank holder tool by welding up an old air conditioner pulley to about 14" of 3/4" round stock. I'll bolt it to the balancer with 4- grade 8 bolts.

[@giantAsFan]

I have a 95 Tacoma 2.4 I need help replacing the motor mounts & trans mount please help, searched all around no VIDs ons this problem

[@martystevens8357]

Use Clothesline in the cyl. to R & R the crank bolt. Get the piston to just below TDC and put the clothesline in the cyl.. You can also torque the bolt.

[@WheeliePete]

Yes the front pulley is bolted to the other two.

[@Tonnsfabrication]

That POS bolt is absolutely kicking my ass right now.

[@EL-LOHIM1987]

Good video

[@WheeliePete]

@aznazguy Put it in 5th gear 4hi and have someone stand on the brake. It's only 110 ftlbs spec I think. I've never had a problem getting them torqued back on.

[@WheeliePete]

I have a universal steering wheel and pulley puller set that has a generic 3 slot plate and a bunch of different bolts. I got it at harbor freight years ago. Any universal puller set should have the right bolts for you, it's a common size (8x1.25) I believe. You do have to unbolt the outer pulley (if equipped) to gain access to the threaded holes in the crankshaft pulley and that's what you use to secure the puller plate for your center screw to push against.

[@mrfrankcastle083]

WheeliePete Yes! My 2004 Optima crankshaft pulley bolts are 8M x 1.25

[@Toyotas_n__Tools]

cant wait to try this to change my crank pulley

[@Toyotas_n__Tools]

nice welds lol

[@WheeliePete]

@aznazguy Oops, I missed the automatic part. I've been able to hold the sytem with a simple pulley holding tool that consisted of an automotive belt that secures to a bar. I got one at harbor freight pretty cheap. Another way to do it would be to pull the starter and jame a pry-bar into the flywheel teeth. Another way would be to pull a spark plug and insert a long coil of small rope and then bring the piston up agaist it until it jams. (I do NOT like that method though.)

[@aznazguy]

Man I just went through this on a 22R I had pulled. I bought a SnapOn impact that didn't work. I tried bolting the starter to it to crank it with the motor on the ground, nope. I ran the starter off 24 volts with two batteries but no dice. Finally took a piece of perforated sheet metal "stereo strap" material, and bolted the torque plate (automatic) to the block and a breaker got it off with relative ease. Now how to torque it with the motor in place?

[@gwolf1942]

that is good to know how can i teel what transmission i have in my toyota?

[@WheeliePete]

Generally you're doing this in the vehicle and it can be difficult to get a BIG impact gun in there if the radiator is in. Heat will work as long as you don't catch oil on fire (you're usually going into the front end to fix a leaky main seal. You'll also need someone to stand on the brake in 4hi 5th gear to keep from back rolling the engine even with the impact. It's not a quesiton of 115 ftlbs, it's 25+ years of time to sieze up...

[@christianrjreyesherencia6707]

Whats the name of the first tool that you use to hold the pulley?

[@simygibbz]

Hi. My daughter has a 1993 2wd Hilux cab chassis with 2.8 diesel 3L motor. I'm replacing the water pump but cant get the bottom pulley off to remove the timing belt cover so that I can get to the water pump. I have the radiator out and all the belts off already. How do I remove the bottom pulley off so that I can remove the timing belt cover? Cheers

[@01sircharles]

Why not use heat w/out welding bolt head to socket.? I'm just getting ready to do head gasket on my truck and looking for some time saving tips. I've got an impact that will twist wheels studs off.( I think 750 lbs) Hard to imagine that would not be enough. It's only supposed to be 115 lbs. right?

[@l33tr3t]

@WheeliePete Something like this always happens to me.. I either hurt a finger or sprain a muscle or get a cold *just* as I'm getting ready to do something

[@gwolf1942]

thanks man :)

[@sergiobullitt4509]

cool video gracias bro

[@WheeliePete]

@1tonyota I once dinged up the dust shield for the crankshaft pulley (removing it) when I did a timing chain install. I got the whole job done, fired up the truck and the metal on metal sound was just terrifying. thought I had screwed something up bad under the timing cover. As I started to take the front end off again I noticed there was a slight grind mark on the oil pump body where the dinged up dust shield had hit it on every revolution. It was louder than hell and scary as %*$&#.

[@villanueva123negrete]

were can I find the torque for all the bolts

[@laddanator]

I have a 90 Toyota Pickup with the 22R and I have the famous oil leak where the head meets the timing cover so torn it down today and guess what? Can't get the Crank bolt out. The motor is still in the truck. I tried driving the 5/16 punch in and I bent it and the bolt wouldn't give. I even tried the bump start deal and the bolt still wouldn't break so I'm lost.

[@WheeliePete]

The gods of any project require a blood sacrifice and I'm building a fence so of cousre I stepped on a nice big ol' nail. Earned me a trip to urgent care, but at least the construction gods are appeased.

[@AikidoTubeSock]

My Camry (a 2000) has no distrbutor. To do the bump start method, a better way to prevent the engine from starting is to disconnect the crankshaft position sensor located just under the alternator. I will avoid the drift method as there is a chance of "dinging up" the dust shield (ask him how he knows). I may try a combination of penetrating oil (Liquid Wrench), a firm tap and heat just before I try a breaker bar and strap wrench.

[@WheeliePete]

@1tonyota hahaha, man I didn't even pick up on that...I put a nail through my foot today so I'm still a little loopy on pain meds. lol...

[@WheeliePete]

The 5th gear/hard brake method only works if your clutch and pressure plate are in VERY good shape. Other wise, you'll just just slip the clutch on the flywheel.

[@smaqdaddy]

Is like to add another "Ask me how I know"! ALWAYS use a 6-point socket to break a stubborn fastener free! My old man had a slick trick he used, thread a length of cotton rope into a cylinder at BDC (start of compression, valves closed) leaving a manageable bit hanging out. Then turn the bolt until it is compressed by the piston. Break it free and pull out the rope.

[@ryann2k1]

the crankshaft pulley of my car mitsubishi magna 1999 is a bit different, nothing i can insert per your video to hold the pulley from moving. i cannot crank the car anymore as I have taken apart the fuel rail, the intake manifold and the distributor. any other idea to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt without using impact gun tool?

[@WheeliePete]

Sorry man, I'm not familiar with that engine. But if you don't have an impact or the factory service tool to hold the pulley, another way to immobilize the engine is to remove the starter and jam the flywheel teeth to keep the motor from turning...HOWEVER...you run the risk of chipping teeth off the flywheel so be careful if you go that route.

[@ryann2k1]

WheeliePete thanks. i don't want to risk the flywheel...maybe i need to buy an impact gun...do you think milwaukee impact gun 2763-22 is strong enough to loose the crankshaft bolt?

[@royhedge3714]

install freeze plugs

[@ampload]

I have the 1994 22RE Engine . How many foot pounds to I need to tighten my flywheel pulley nut. ? eg: 118 lb ? or ? im not sure

[@WheeliePete]

Torque Spec on a 1994 22RE crankshaft pulley bolt is 116 ft-lb (or 157 N-m).

[@ersbit]

I tried to bump start !! not working. went to a mechanic for their most powerful impact gun. Not working. Prior to that I tried with my hand after holding the pulley with a bar and using a ratchet to try to remove. I broke both of my ratchet( their spinning only now). Tried my feet my hand with all the strength i have it did not move. I even tried to force it with a hydraulic jack too (got my ratchet broken). Today I bought a breaker bar and the 21mm that fits on. I bump started multiple time and It broke the 21mm piece I bought. What do you think I should do at this point??

[@WheeliePete]

So there's actually a tool designed for holding that pulley still. Looks like this (you stick a big pipe on it and jam it to the ground or frame: www.ebay.com/itm/Lexus-Toyota-Crankshaft-Crank-Harmonic-Damper-Pulley-Holding-Holder-Tool-/262410532152 If you have a welder you can fab up a similar tool. Search for 22R crankshaft pulley holder and you should find some good homebrew designs. If you don't have the welder and want to try a last ditch effort...heat the pulley bolt with a propane torch. The toughest one I ever ran across did like yours and broke my impact socket (cracked it) I got pissed cut the socket down past the cracked end and then took a mig welder and welded the socket onto the end of the crankshaft pulley bolt (really hot setting on the mig). Then when I went to put the wrench on the bolt, it practically came off with finger strength. The heat from the welding busted loose the jammed threads. You might be able to get it to come out by heating the bolt up with the propane torch. Obviously....be super careful running a torch around the bottom of the engine, oil, grease, etc. all flammable. Keep an extinguisher handy.

[@WheeliePete]

Obviously, after I welded the socket on I had to get a new crankshaft pulley bolt...but the old one with the socket on it makes a nice conversation piece!

[@ersbit]

thank for the reply !! will try the torch method

[@WheeliePete]

I just bent the dust shield back into position and no more noise. Sure freaked me out though when I fired that truck and it made that awful noise...

[@asessins7634]

Tks good video

[@andreaperez3152]

XT n gs

[@condimentking14]

How does putting without drift punch in there not damage the oil pump housing I'm at a last resort trying to remove one off of my 22R we've used impact guns will you heat the bolt we use the tie breaker bar to the frame trick nothing seems to work

[@WheeliePete]

You have to set it in there carefully to make sure it's not against a part that will crack, then slowly bring it up to tension so it stays in place. Basically you make sure it's in a spot up against a part of the casting that has a bolt behind it. It's not optimal, that's for sure.

[@condimentking14]

WheeliePete I will certainly have to give that a try because right now we tried everything from the biggest impact gun and 1/2 inch Drive variety and higher air pressures and nothing worked so now we're going to have to move up to either a three-quarter inch Drive Impact gun or do that trick because I need to fix my timing set

[@JoseMedina-ni9pg]

Hey I have a 1993 Toyota pickup and would like to know where you can get a new Harmonic balancer?

[@WheeliePete]

Looks like you can get them from carparts.com for around $40. (I'm not affiliated with them in any way, I just googled it.). www.carparts.com/details/Toyota/Pickup/Replacement/Harmonic_Balancer/1993/REPT312304.html?TID=gglpla&origin=pla&gclid=CjwKCAjw-e2EBhAhEiwAJI5jgxBORu_UCppqo2Yk1OA3Ej2DahvXm-5FCR1KEt5VVZvUrNlBR2q2PRoCMWMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

[@Picturcardude]

A little heat goes along ways!!!

[@maciejstrauchmann2895]

Hey I know this is an old video, but I have tried literally everything from the bump method, blocking the pulley and using a breaker, using a 1,400 ft lb torque wrench, heat up the bolt and did every one of these things again and the bolt.. will not.. come off. I really hope you get back to me in my troubles.

[@WheeliePete]

Sounds like it is really stuck. At this point you are probably going to need to buy or make the actual tool that bolts onto the crankshaft pulley to hold it still, then heat it with a torch, and then go at it with a LONG breaker bar. Another alternate method is to pull a spark plug and then feed some cord into the cylinder and then bring that cylinder up towards TDC on the compression stroke. The cord will jam between the piston and the head and stop the engine from moving. Obviously not my first choice, but that will keep the engine from turning. You can also pull the oil pan off and jam something (like a hammer handle) between the crankshaft and block to keep the engine from turning. If the engine it out of the truck you can put a piece of chain between to the flywheel mounting bolts and the engine block to keep it from turning. I would use heat on the bolt head for all these methods...it sounds you you are REALLY seized on there. I had one that was suck so bad once I cracked a large socket. I got so pissed I broke out the mig welder and welded the socket to the head of the bolt. When I was done, the heat from the weld actually loosened up the bolt perfectly, it came right out with very little problem after that.

[@iogogilby]

This has little to do with your Video but I have 1986 Truck with 22R that has a mystery problem. When I start it up, the exhaust has black liquid coming out of the tailpipe. After warm it seems to go away. Any idea. I’m asking this question because you said you have worked on a lot of these engines.

[@WheeliePete]

If the liquid is the consistency of water it is most likely just condensation in the exhaust piping mixing with the black carbon soot in the piping and then being blown out the back when you turn on the engine. Once the exhaust system warms up the condensation in the pipes evaporates and doesn't drip any more.

[@Ilovejoeyd95]

hey i got a question, so i am taking the head off my 22re in my 88 4runner and one head bolt is being a ass, ive been working on it for 3 days. i got it out of the tread but it doesnt want to come up out of the hole, ive tried everything from pry bars to hammers and it wont want to come out.

[@WheeliePete]

cody N If the bolt is out of the block and stuck in the head, just take the head off the block and see what the bottom of that bolt hole looks like. You might be able to drive it out from the bottom with a drift. Make sure you use new headbolts when you put the head back on. Don't forget that there is a small bolt at the front of the head that sits down in a puddle of oil right under where the distributor drive gear normally is. That bolt attaches the head to the timing cover and if you forget about it and try to take the head off you will break your timing cover.

[@WheeliePete]

Prop Paper Normally the 4cyl head gaskets don't have any issues....unless someone replaces it without surfacing the head. The ones I've seen blow more than once are because of either corrosion in the water jackets caused by electrolysis of the coolant due to improper grounding of the head to the body, or the hg blew and someone just pulled the head and put in a new gasket and put it back down without making sure the head was perfectly flat or having it surfaced so it is. New head bolts don't hurt either. Most people just re-use the existing head bolts, but you can get a set of new ones pretty cheap so I like to use new ones that aren't stretched already.

[@timothywatts378]

@@MrProp46 Mine has 230,000 when the gasket blew due to me not pulling over in time when I developed a radiator leak. They must have changed the fuel filter position, my 84 is on the frame rail, super easy to get to. (Carburated). These motors go 300,000 easy without needing a head gasket change every 60,000m. Maybe the first time warped the head and you didn't notice?

[@moquiti]

Nothing is working so far, I split a 3/8" drive breaker bar in half, moved on to 3/8" drill rod, which held, but then my new 19mm socket just split and the bolt hex is now rounded over, all corners. It looks like I'll have to weld a socket onto the bolt flange like you did. Would you recommend a 3/4" drive socket? Impact or regular? Thnx. :( 1984 22RE, in the truck

[@moquiti]

Next I tried using a cold chisel on the bolt flange but soon realized I was actually pounding on the crankshaft. Last resort was to source a power steering pulley from a wrecking yard and weld two 1" angle iron pieces about three feet long together on one end and onto the face of the pulley, bolting this onto the crankshaft pulley and rotating it against a 2x4 resting on the bodywork above the passenger side fender. The pulley bolt wasn't fully rounded over, so I used an impact 19mm socket with a 1/2" breaker bar, and backed it with a 6x6 piece of wood and a thinner piece, braced against the front clip supports to keep pressure on the socket. An additional 18" of pipe cheater on the breaker bar got the bolt moving slightly. Several more repositionings of the setup got the bolt loose.

[@moquiti]

One last thing. To remove the timing cover, there are two additional bolts that need to be removed from the oil pump (besides the six ones in front and the one in back on the driver' side). Those are located on the extreme left and on the extreme right. They go to the block, and aren't noted in the 1984 factory shop manual.

[@MrWelfarehater]

WheeliePeete, Hi if you get a harmonic balancer tool with a square end. Next you get 2 long hardened bolts that fit into your harmonic balancer. Remove the center bolt and replace with an extension. that fits into the 19mm socket. The next tool that you will need is a long adjustable wrench which you will put on the square end of the harmonic balancer tool. Use the wrench to hold it on something that is not going to move or break, and then that will immobilize the crankshaft. With a breaker bar you should be able to remove it. Honda actually has a special tool that you use to hold it with a breaker bar that works on the same principal. How do I know, well I have done it many times removing and installing the crankshaft pulley. If I buy a Chinese harmonic balancer with no bolt holes, then I usually remove the dust cover on the transmission and use a hardened screwdriver to immobilize the flywheel. You may not agree, but it works for me.

[@WheeliePete]

***** There is a specific tool for the Toyota 22R series engine crankshaft pulley remover, but almost nobody ever has it, so this was just a video on an alternate way to break it loose without special tools. I'm not a fan of jamming the starter gear teeth on the flywheel because it's just to easy to break them off and then you have a worse problem to deal with.

[@AikidoTubeSock]

What size are the 2 bolts used in the crankshaft puller?

[@BryanFlores775WW]

J. Wilson hey did you find out the size for it I really need to know thanks

[@hp11208]

@WheeliePete true,many ways to skin a cat lo.

[@Flakez_86]

What pulley puller did you use? I'm having trouble finding a puller that'll fit the 22re pulley for the crankshaft

[@BryanFlores775WW]

Michael Brand hey did you end up finding that puller and if so what size was it ?