When a knife is better than a pencil

It's important to choose the best marking tool for the job.
Links to stuff in the video►
My Blaklader Vest: amzn.to/3uZAKwU
Thick lead holder (clutch pencil): amzn.to/3dtoFKs
Pentel Graphgear 1000 Mechanical pencil set: amzn.to/3uYeYto
Pentel Graphgear 1000 individual pencils: amzn.to/2RMw0MR
Spear-point marking knife: amzn.to/3eeu8DQ
Ticonderoga wood pencils: amzn.to/2OZTYDa
Electric pencil sharpener: amzn.to/3eeyQ4w
Videos mentioned ►
Marking gauge tutorial: • Why you need a wood ma...
Sanding tutorial: • So, you think you know...
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[@StumpyNubs]

Links to stuff in the video► My Blaklader Vest: amzn.to/3uZAKwU Thick lead holder (clutch pencil): amzn.to/3dtoFKs Pentel Graphgear 1000 Mechanical pencil set: amzn.to/3uYeYto Pentel Graphgear 1000 individual pencils: amzn.to/2RMw0MR Spear-point marking knife: amzn.to/3gjKAWg Ticonderoga wood pencils: amzn.to/2OZTYDa Electric pencil sharpener: amzn.to/3eeyQ4w Videos mentioned ► Marking gauge tutorial: kzbin.info/www/bejne/r4OwnJucdrhmoa8 Sanding tutorial: kzbin.info/www/bejne/p3W8gXqdn7agfJY When you use this link to visit our sponsor, you support us► Trend diamond stones: amzn.to/2XomWMi (We may get a small commission if you use one of the above affiliate links.)

[@thomasarussellsr]

The pencil set link goes to a five piece set with 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.7, and 0.9 pencils. But it is cheaper than the four piece set with the four you have with refill leads and erasers. But tbere are a lot of comments that the 0.4 didn't come with their loose packed in an envelope order. However, there were plenty of good reviews that said they got all five pencils too. So, luck of the draw I suppose? Either way, I have never seen refill lead at my local supply stores for 0.3 or 0.4 pencils.

[@StumpyNubs]

@@ABaumstumpf Trend diamond stones: amzn.to/2XomWMi

[@HybridWoodworks]

Do you have a video or link on how to sharpen the spear point marking knife? If not, maybe put a video together. I’m certain people would appreciate it. Thanks for all your wonderful content. Best woodworking channel by far.

[@highwoodsironworks902]

Perfect Video @Stumpy Nubs ! But i have a Question : what brand or kind is that sharpening/honing guide that we can see for a few seconds at the end of the video when you showcase the Trend Diamond Stones ⁉️ I would appreciate to know about that honing guide ‼ Greetings Daniel

[@daveengstrom9250]

"Stumpy": Making his mark on the world.

[@richardsorge-]

How can someone dislike a clear, useful video like this ? Another life mystery....

[@mrsimon810]

Just wanted to say that as a construction teacher in high school here in Canada I could not do without your channel. I increasingly rely on you for insights to teaching woodshop. I am have an industrial construction background and teach wood shop as well. I am not classically trained as a carpenter, but with your help my home wood shop and the one for the kids at school has improved by leaps and bounds. Thanks for sharing. Keep it coming. Joe

[@thomaskoehler5386]

I'm a big fan of woodcase pencils, too. Dixon Ticonderogas used to be very good, but the quality has suffered after moving production overseas. General Pencil is the last American made high quality hex grip cedar case pencil company.

[@keats182]

You may not be sponsored by Pentel, but you should be. You were the first one I saw use those. Since then, I've noticed a lot of youtube woodworkers use those pencils. I know I bought a few thanks to your recommendation and love them.

[@joeldcanfield_spinhead]

The art teacher I watched on Domestika also uses these pencils. They must be ambidextrous ;)

[@thealchemist5376]

Aye, but be warned, the plastic part under the grip is prone to breaking near the top, at the thread.

[@ExtremeSquared]

​@@thealchemist5376 It's technically a drafting pencil. Drafting pencils were designed to remain in drawers, and can't really handle much abuse. For pocket durability, get a non-drafting 0.9mm. I use / abuse pentel twist-erase. I actually assumed this video was sponsored by pentel, because this is a use case where their cheaper products would be functionally superior.

[@mattelias721]

I have several 0.7mm Pentels at hand... 0.5mm is too fragile even with quality lead. Stumpy has some good points here, and I like his huge-butt crayon-style thing which I'll probably buy. Point being here, I execute quality furniture with only a very good machinist square, marking gauge, and a 0.7mm Pentel... but to the comment earlier, don't throw them in frustration because yes, they're plastic-bodied.

[@thealchemist5376]

@@ExtremeSquared I know, I bought mine for drafting! ;D. That's why I want to warn against them as they're not strong enough for woodworking, let alone drafting, unless that part is replaced, as I did for mine. Now they're family heirlooms.

[@ajwhittlebang6977]

As always great content but I just wish someone would mention the minor yet quite handy feature that the Pentel 1000 Auto Pencils' handgrips can be twisted to indicate the lead hardness in that particular pencil. This is a really handy feature when you use different hardness leads of the same thickness for different applications or stages in timber preparation and they're all on your body. I also carry an eraser to remove marking out mistakes from partially dressed timber with little or no trace. Cheers James enjoy your presentations.

[@regularguy9264]

Very professional production as always. Your videos stand the test of time as an outstanding reference.

[@bearthompson6506]

I love my "robot pencils"! Been using them since seeing them on a Cool Tools episode a while ago.

[@stackman120]

Same here!

[@covishen]

My biggest problem is staying organized. I start out with everything in my apron, but within an hour, I have my pencils, crayons, etc. scattered everywhere and I spend more time searching for that pencil than actually working.

[@nicolasarias6000]

That's a good idea he's got to carry 4+ pencils at a time

[@MCsCreations]

You know, you just gave me an idea... 🤔 A few years ago I made a small electric pencil sharpener with a small 9g servo (modified to run 360° of rotation). But it didn't last long, because I made it with thin MDF and made a lot of mistakes (I knew nothing about woodworking at the time). Now that I have the tools and everything, i may make it again! This time with no battery, it doesn't make sense, just a DC input plug. 😊 Can you imagine, maybe a dovetailed pencil sharpener? 😃 Anyway, thanks a lot for all the tips, dude!!! Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@traillesstravelled7901]

I go with the free carpentry pencil from the lumber yard, in the pocket, crayon/sharpy in bags, regular pencil behind the ear, retractable knife in bags/pocket. So of course I just grab yours because after 10 minutes all my stuff is on the ground, bench, truck seat, or broken.

[@olddawgdreaming5715]

Thanks for sharing with us James. Great choices of the mechanical pencils. Fred.🙏🏻🙏🏻👍👍👏🏻👏🏻👋👋

[@MrJohnnyboyrebel]

On your recommendation I bought some Pentecost pencils. Absolutely love them!

[@pizzawarlord9232]

You got me hooked on the Pental and the lead. Thanks

[@danasmith8950]

You could do a video about the things you carry in your vest. Yes, you covered part of it in this video. But what other goodies do you feel are worthy of carrying around all the time? I know what mine are: Pencils, 6" rule, pen light, pencil style magnet, small pencil style screw driver, 3" square, 6" square, razor knife, 6' tape measure, drill chuck key, dust collection remote, marking punch, and 5/16" hex wrench (I own a Shopsmith). Oh. and a toothbrush. Yep, a toothbrush. It's super handy for getting sawdust out of small places and cleaning off bits and things after use. And now the final question is, "would your vest hold all these things?" I have a shop apron and am having a little trouble seeing all these things fit in a vest. But my apron doubles as a sawdust collector and I'm thinking your vest might help me avoid that.

[@mickeyd9369]

@Stumpy Nubs. I’ve been playing with lead hardness for about a month. Standard hardness in an off the shelf mechanical will usually be HB. Forget 5H or higher. They require too much pressure and leave too little lead behind on softwoods, forget hardwoods altogether. Currently I’m deciding between the 3H or 4H. Both mark well in soft and hard wood. Both will work even “with the grain” on open grain hardwoods like red oak though 3H might have a slight advantage. With both 3H &4H you can vary the thickness of the mark a tiny bit to the point that you might even be able to forgo the .3 and the point .9 and stick with a .5 & .7. If you use the edge of a .5/ 4H you can get a remarkably fine line. But if you want to stick with the .3, definitely go 3H. Yes, with harder lead you will get thinner lines. (All things being equal, pressure/ angle...) Beware when you are marking “with” the grain on softwoods, if you press hard, you can crush the fibers and leave an indent. Perhaps advantageous for a chisel reference? Haven’t played with that yet. Pressing softly leaves plenty of lead behind. I’ve yet to break the lead while marking with either but I’ve been working 12 inches or less. Haven’t run wide boards yet. I like the Pacific Arc professional pencil as they are reasonably priced and have a dial marker you set to remind you of the lead hardness. Not as cool as Stumpy’s but it does have pen like/ click action to protect the pencil and lead. Oh, and a cool twist action to advance more eraser. After having written this, I can’t believe I nerded out so much about pencils... 🤣

[@absalomdraconis]

For anyone reading this who doesn't know what "HB" or "4H" are, they're specific hardnesses of the lead, which in turn affects _how fast_ the lead comes off, and thus how dark the mark is. 2H is harder than HB (I don't recall if 1H is a thing or not), 3H is harder 2H, etc. Similarly, 2B is _softer_ than HB, thus leaving more material, and thereby producing a darker mark. In general, extremely hard or soft leads are only useful for art & schematics, and stuf around HB or a bit harder are the only ones you should pay attention to. Also, you should try skipping numbers- so, if you're using 2H then skip 3H in favor of 4H, or even 5H. Similarly, if using 3H, just skip right past 4H- the "adjacent" hardnesses are really too similar to be useful for anything other than art.

[@absalomdraconis]

Also of note- there are colors _other_ than black available for mechanical pencils, including _at least_ red and black. Normally this doesn't matter, but for some it may prove a valuable resource. Beware that the color leads have fewer available hardnesses than black, and tend to be lighter colored in the first place.

[@mariushegli]

I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.

[@befmx31]

Graph Gear mechanical pencils are the BEST! I have just recently found them and started using them. I had been using other mechanicals before these and it took me probably two weeks of using the GraphGears before I stopped saying to myself each time I put the lead back in the pen, "damn I love these pencils". Sometimes, it's the little things in life.

[@caioabramo2443]

I admire your specificity! I don't think I could handle having 4 different lead sizes on me, but I do use two: a regular good quality wood pencil (B or #1) for rougher marks and writing on wood, and a 0.5 mechanical for precise marks and joinery; I often just drop it in the marking gauge line for visibility. I'd suggest people experiment a bit with different graphite gradings; I find the usual #2 (HB) to be too rough, while a B is just about perfect for paper and wood alike. It does need sharpening often though, but such is life... By the way, you can find lead holders (and the nifty special sharpener they require) for pretty much any thickness. Architects used to use them for precise drawings (with something like 4H or 5H) They work well as another kind of (mechanical) pencil.

[@tom-840]

Love your stuff Stumpy Nubs! I've been using the Graphgear 500 (0.5mm) for years in the shop and may have to try the 1000 for the retractable tip. As for Pentel, I think I started using their pencils in high school, and let's just say that was before there was any movie called Star Wars.

[@draztiqmeshaz6226]

Thanks for this! You might not know about it, but the Zebra Del Guard is a fabulous 0.5 mechanical for woodworking. It uses a long, sturdy tip that can rotate and spring such that it is quite difficult to break the fine leads. I find it a great all-round shop pencil. Still not a replacement for a marking knife, but takes me almost up to sharpie for wood with relatively smooth surfaces.

[@scotttoner9231]

Great presentation, as always. What I would really appreciate too is a show and tell of your tool apron - goods, bads, what to consider. Thanks again for what you do

[@troygoggans5495]

What’s the reality for most wood workers? My work is never precise enough to get excited over millimeters differences in markings. But you keep on making videos as I always enjoy them whether they impact me or not.

[@HepauDK]

7:01 Last year I was trying to disassemble an old bolt cutter, but couldn't get one of the bolts loose. I tried to persuade it with a 15mm combination wrench and a mallet. The bolt didn't budge, but the fork end snapped off. I had considered making my own marking knife for a while, and decided to give it a try with the remains of the wrench, and decided to make a spear point. It turned out pretty well. It's hardened, so it holds the edge pretty well and the ring end is great for hanging it on the tool wall after use. :)

[@Erik_The_Viking]

I love my Pentel Graphgear 0.5mm pencil. My measuring is more of a reference than a precise line, where a marking knife would be required. If I need a line to absolutely spot on, then I'll use a knife for that. I still have an "old school" manual pencil sharpener in my garage.

[@thespiritof76..]

Stopping a couple years ago you taught me about the reason for using a marking knife versus just a pencil Mark.. my carpentry skills have improved 1000% because of that and because I can cut a straight line now of course without blinding myself lol

[@pilotwan2be]

Love the video. I have been looking at getting a marking knife and see the benefit. I will be purchasing one. But I especially liked the mechanical pencils you shared. Really like the retracting tip. That will definitely be on my list for purchase! I wanted to share something that I found about the leads. At least for the 0.5 and 0.7 leads. I have found that a high polymer lead works great. It's the same size but is stronger, hence it doesn't break as easy. The only trade off is that the high polymer lead, marks a slight bit lighter. I personally don't notice much difference but some might. To me though it's worth the trade off. Thanks again for the video.

[@MinidokaKid]

Excellent tutorial. I too have been looking for a good mechanical pencil for those precise reasons. Thank you.

[@emm_arr]

Good video - as always! I had a woodwork teacher who loved picking up a bench plane and "wiping" a pencil over the blade a couple of times. Zing. Sharp as you like. I prefer his backup method of sharpening with a big chisel.

[@chrisnickelson7307]

Love your work Stumps, Love your Old timey series, but you need to make more of them. or re do them so i can watch them again. and again. oh oh right i can just watch the old one's over and over again . or watch some new ones .

[@WreckDiver99]

GREAT Cold Snack holder. I'd almost think that's a wobble pop from Founders in there...hmmm....nah, not in the shop. Anyway I use Drafting Pencils (Lead Holders) and Mechanical Pencils almost exclusively in the shop, but that hasn't improved my work at all. My biggest issue is cutting a board, and it's too long, then cutting again, and still too long, and cutting a 3rd time by just barely touching that end and yea...1/4" too short suddenly. Most frustrating thing in the world is measuring, marking and cutting for me, and yes, I've followed about 300 different 'tutorials' on the topic and even worked with a cabinet maker...he was "jeeze, this makes no sense" when he saw what was going on, and just kind of threw his hands up and said "you're cursed son"...LOL...and I was near 50 at the time. LOL

[@thomasarussellsr]

I must have missed these pencils on "cool tools". I love my fine pencils, but have never seen a 0.3, or a retracting metal tip. Sounds like my next pencil/s purchase for the shop, for sure. Oh, and the heavy lead holder too. Thanks for the links... assuming they are in the discription, I haven't looked yet. Thanks ahead of looking, as they usually are. 😁

[@murphymmc]

Interesting collection of pencils. Back in the day when house plans were drawn with the old school mechanical pencils, I acquired a couple of good quality ones and a boatload of refills in various hardness, small and highly efficient sharpener and I just tune the points as needed on projects. Ultra fine to standard lines are easy to attain. It just doesn't take any longer than rooting around for a pencil with different sized leads to get the line thickness desired. Whatever floats yer boat as they say. One KZbinr carpentry dude who claims to always elevate your skills up a level never uses anything but a rectangular carpenters pencil, then again, he avoids any non-powered hand tools like the plague. He's never experienced the ultra smooth surface of a properly tuned hand plane of good quality. There is and always will be the difference between woodworkers and wood machinists. I do both, as do most, production work necessitates tool selection just as one-off pieces do. Unlimited shop size and funding would change much for most of us, or not.

[@gnarthdarkanen7464]

Not sure on the size of your "lead holder"... BUT I've got an addition (though it's an obscurity)... I use a Staedtler Mars 788 Draftsman's pencil, myself... AND mostly for "custom curving" situations. It's thicker than conventional lines actually help register where the curve "approximately must be" for a cut, and so long as I "cut to leave the line" I have a registered measure (around 1.8 mm from a 2mm lead) of marking to "shave" out for minute adjustments to fit what I'd marked and cut into where I'd measured and made notes... Not every woodworking piece or project gets to be all square and straight and plumb... Organic shapes are a wonderment to onlookers, from noob's to professionals who rarely (if ever) tried working with them... AND the ability to fine-tune a piece of wood to fit flawlessly with something completely organic raises the stakes of a project exponentially... BUT without a nice thick black line to work with, all the little guides and reference marks would only clutter up the working piece with scratches and mess... where (instead) I can cut the curve "to leave the line" and test fit, make a few references and then repeat shaving out/off and test fitting to get my final piece... most times, that's really all there is to it. One set of reference marks or guides, and then all shave, test, shave, test, shave... fit... disassemble and add glue or hardware for final assembly... It can be done otherwise (obviously)... BUT just my experience, it's almost always more cumbersome and costly... and marking with knives will only result in a lot more sanding to finish the thing... ;o)

[@SeanBlader]

Rather than a double bevel marking knife, I've decided to switch to X-Acto #11 blades. Each blade in a bulk pack is about 2.2 cents and there's various different handles you can attach them to, like artisanal craft handles, or rugged Gerber units. After spending US$22 on 100 x-acto blades, I figure I have enough cutting tool to last the rest of my life.

[@АлексейМаринчев-м1з]

James, finally I have taken after you and bought myself a Pentel graphgear 1000. Only one 05 mm piece not a set of four . Mainly because I cannot afford it. But many thanks for this advice 👍

[@Mike-bl4km]

I got a set of the mechanical pencils on your suggestion. They are AWESOME! So awesome I bought 4 more sets of .9 and .7 and have them all over my shop! I will never go back.

[@WorBlux]

With a singe bevel/ spear point knife, I tend to put the bevel against the straight edge rather than the flat. 1. It's easier to see what you're doing 2. It's more confortable 3. The knife cut tend to create some pressure against the straight edge, and this technique lets you oppose the tendancy with your thumb rather than friction against the straight edge (which you probably just got done waxing anyways) Biggest drawback is you need the bevel to be a single plane (no micro-bevels here, every time you sharpen you have to grind the whole bevel.

[@catfishcave379]

Completely unrelated question - I’m asking many youtubers - (and I want viewer input too!) what depth drawers do you find most useful in your shop? I’m building a base for my tool chests and am trying to decide between more 2 and 3 inch drawers or a 5 or 6 inch drawer in the mix. I have 26 inches to divide into drawers into. (24 inches wide)

[@highwoodsironworks902]

Perfect Video @StumpyNubs ! But i have a Question : what brand or kind is that sharpening/honing guide that we can see for a few seconds at the end of the video when you showcase the Trend Diamond Stones ⁉️ I would appreciate to know about that honing guide ‼ Greetings Daniel

[@wryonion]

I have a different brand, but love my .3 retractable tip mechanical pencil. I have a very light touch, so I use it more than any other pencil. And generally use it to darken the line made by a marking knife so I can see it a bit better (or a .5 depending on which knife I’m using).

[@tomharger2573]

I was wondering which combination square you use? Every one I've come across has been a piece of junk. Never truly square. This might make a nice vid on it's own.

[@brianstevens3858]

I added a hole & a set screw to one of my marking gauges, has a knife {followed by a zebra mech pencil}, another weird little mod than panned out.

[@thealchemist5376]

The part under the graph gear 1000 grip is plastic and prone to breaking, as happened to mine. I had a custom replacement made from aluminium, now it's sturdy, as it should've come from the factory.

[@rigorhead01]

The Pentel 1000 is amazing. It's my go to for woodworking at home, and metal fabrication at work.

[@brw3079]

See Grampa Amu's approach to marking gages. (Spoiler alert:) He used a stick with nails. The heads of the nails make the marks.

[@johngregg5735]

Pencil, knife... don't take either one to a gun fight...

[@markbaker9459]

Aloha, I have one massive block of graphite for crude marking of logs or timbers as well as your pocket full of mac. pencils.

[@tomweller5045]

Thanks. I have tried several different mechanical pencils and they always disappoint me. I will try your advice.

[@granworks]

I used the Pentel pencils for a few years but finally gave up. They are wonderful for all the reasons you mentioned, at first, but I found that they all invariably and inevitably would stop working after only a few months of regular use (longer with irregular use). Specifically, the "advance" mechanism stops advancing the lead. It's very frustrating when you need to use the pencil and it simply doesn't work. In the end, I went with the Adam Savage method and bought a box of 60-odd cheap mechanical pencils and spread them all over my workshop and liberally in my tool belts and bags. Those eventually die, too, but it's no big deal since they only cost pennies each and there's going to be a few replacements within easy reach, so no downtime or frustration. Ubiquity and redundancy rules the day, here.

[@StumpyNubs]

The reason most of them stop working is that tip gets bent. The mechanism still works, but the tip doesn't let the lead advance. That's why I like this particular model.

[@granworks]

@@StumpyNubs I agree. The bent tips was the reason I switched to this pencil in the first place. Indeed, it's auto-retract feature essentially eliminates that problem. Alas, what that doesn't solve is the advance mechanism, which stopped working for me on every single one of these pencils I've ever had. Maybe I just have an abnormally dusty workspace or something?

[@wulf67]

#2 wood pencil and a marking knife. You get to put whatever point you want on the pencil, and you can do it with your marking knife. The pencil goes behind your ear though, not in a pocket.

[@prettynicefield1104]

Guy skip the pentel and go to yhe Amazon basic mecanical pencil they are stronger and cheaper .5 and .7 lead they are so good à bought 5 of them !!

[@Bpica0129]

A good video as always. I really appreciate the transparency when it comes to sponsorship.

[@billj5645]

Very inexpensive mechanical pencils can be found in discount stores so if you lose it or break it you have not lost much. But there are also very nice expensive ones as in the video. Besides the different sizes of lead, and the lead holders come in different sizes too, there are different types of lead. Softer leads like 2B make dark marks but break easy. Harder leads like 2H don't mark as darkly but they don't break as easily. HB is a good in between lead for most writing but might be too soft for some marking uses.

[@trevorwinter5071]

Could I put in a word for the traditional carpenters pencil with the rectangular lead. The lead is robust and can be sharpened to a chisel point which stays thin for a considerable time and is easily dressed with a piece of fine sandpaper. They come in several lead hardnesses. The softer gives a very easily seen black line. The hard one gives a lighter line but also cuts the fibres slightly to give almost a cut line. ( I am speaking from U.K. experience )

[@johnslaughter5475]

I've been using a .5 lead for almost everything for years. Even the .5 can fatten out a bit as you use it. So, I use a trick I learned in Mechanical Drafting class, before these fine leads were available. As you draw a line, rotate the pencil in your fingers. This keeps a fine point all along the line. This works well for Ticonderoga pencils, too. I also use marking knives. When I got mine, I didn't see one like yours. So, I got a set of 2 single bevel knives. It's a system that has worked for me. Thank you for a very informative video. As always, you have given a very good tutorial.

[@awlthatwoodcrafts8911]

I learned the same trick in my drafting classes in high school as well. 40+ years later, I've never forgotten it.

[@rayrayishappy1567]

Stumpy I’ve learned so much from u... thank u

[@MCsCreations]

BTW, here in Brazil I couldn't find a marking knife to buy. So... I'm going to make a small forge and make one out of a hacksaw blade. 😬 I'm going to make it the way you showed that you prefer. Any recommendations?

[@tranak23]

Have always used the cheap BIC mechanical pencil in .5mm. Served me well.

[@MrPecuniam]

I love using the Pentil, however my main issue with it is that if you accidentally drop it on the floor the lead opening part dents and your pencil is useless. Love the thing, but it needs some added durability.

[@combatmedic1980]

What is the exact model vest your wearing, not sure which one, they show so many?

[@genewunderlin4444]

James, I’d also like to know.

[@jamesconner8275]

Should have also covered lead hardness.

[@StumpyNubs]

Sorry to disappoint.

[@sean0575]

Thanks for these informative quick videos...I really enjoy your channel. Cheers!

[@timmorse8146]

Alas in the last few year as I age. I now need a white fine crayon for woods like walnut. Could you recommend a fine pointed one or other white marker.

[@etedrowable]

Fun story: after seeing that mechanical pencil & you "thick lead holder" in a cool tools video a while back, I bought them & damn if they aren't handy. Btw, the proper term for the "thick lead holder" is "clutch pencil". It helps to use that term if you want to buy one

[@mileshh515]

For anyone looking, Staedtler is another good brand of robot pencil.

[@marknahabedian1803]

You didn't say what hardness of pencil lead you use.

[@candon1972]

In northern Europe carpenters use a chisel to sharpen the old school pencils 👌👍

[@502deth]

ohhhhhh, you lost me at electric sharpener. has to be the old, school type, hand crank one.

[@wolfman75]

Cool!!! Great Video!!! Thank You!!!!👍😎

[@johanflodkvist80]

Do you have a predilection for swedish products? Bench, sharpening, workwear. Its silly but as a swede I did get a little kick when I saw the Blåkläder logo.

[@StumpyNubs]

The Swedes make great products :)

[@Aron9593]

I've watched 8 of your videos now back to back non stop. I have these Pencils already and was wondering about a marking knife now I'm wanting one. Your like the Bob Ross of wood working.

[@kellyhanson08]

Did you land on a marking knife? I'm looking to gift a marking knife to a new wood worker & looking for something practical but yet on the nicer side. I'll continue to look around this page, but saw your post and curious if you found a good one. thanks!

[@nope24601]

Ticonderoga pencils are garbage.

[@RidgidRon]

Stumpy, I use carpenter's pencils and do see you don't mention them. Do you use carpenter's pencils?

[@StumpyNubs]

I am not a fan of a carpenter's pencil for making fine, accurate marks.

[@iratevagabond204]

I have a RotRing Rapid Pro in .5, .7, and 2mm. Got a "Trekker Pen" by "Rite in the Rain" that stays on my "KeyBak". My storage clipboard has a red and black lead "Rite in the Rain" mechanical pencil as well; stays in my truck. I been working construction professionally for 10 years, and doing for-profit "woodworking" as a hobby for somewhere around half that time. The one thing I have always been confused about are those fat oval carpenter pencils. Never seen a use for them, and never wanted to get ridiculed by an old timer for asking. lol

[@coppulor6500]

Dear Mr. Nubs, You are the king. I cannot express how much you've helped me along my journey in ways that would have taken me years to figure out on my own. Your combination of relaxed but intelligent and concise explanations along with great video production with the closeups etc..............not sure how much better a video of this kind could be. Thank you!!!!

[@nobuckle40]

I have to admit, I've stayed awake at night wondering what kind of of marking tools you used. Just having fun. Seriously though, as a former tool maker I appreciate what you've presented. We do want to strive for the highest accuracy possible and our marking tools help us do that. I predict though, that since you have made some recommendations, the price of those items will increase on Amazon. Thanks for the information James.

[@andpeters1]

For those on a budget, or more beginner...the Pentel Sharp in 0.9mm is almost as good as the Graphgear (no retracting lead, but still a much harder/less breakable lead than the Bic cheapos). And, only $1 each.

[@tomowens2720]

Just received my new 7mm robot pencil. It is awesome....9mm on the way. wish I knew about these years ago. very robust. Thanks James!

[@mkbcoolman]

I agree with this 100%. I use a lead marker I picked up for Rockler years ago (I think it 2-3MM thick), but I only use the 0.9 Pentel mechanical. I'm left handed, and I find the thinner leads to be too fragile for my heavy hand, but I haven't had any problems with precision using the 0.9. I have a cheap marking gauge I picked on on amazon years ago. I think I paid like $15 for it, and it works perfectly. Then I have a marking knife that I made out of an old file. I put a spear point on it then built a knife-handle with walnut and 1/4" brass rod. Probably not cost effective, since you can buy then fairly cheaply, but it was a lot of fun to make and I always get so much satisfaction using it. There's nothing quite like using a tool you made from scrap parts.

[@jean-paulmuller4230]

Thanks for this video. About pencils, what about the grade of the lead ? From BBB BB B HB H HH HHH, how choice ? jp from France

[@TrevorDennis100]

Six left of the Pental Graphgear 1000 pencil sets on Amazon as I type this. I have a set on its way to NZ :-) I did find some locally, but as is often the way, it was cheaper to use Amazon. I like the idea of an old pen top to line a vest pocket. I use a Katz Moses type apron, and my metal working scriber pokes through the bottom of the pocket after about two years of use. Same thing with my calipers that have worn right through the bottom of the pocket, and it is only the head that stops them falling though.

[@patprop74]

What are the odds that you talk about Marking knives today of all days! when just this morning I was going through a pail of old tools I had picked up years ago from a deceased woodworker, and one of the items that caught my eye this morning was a sweet-looking vintage-like marking knife. So odd!

[@lowrights33]

Brilliant, thank you!

[@dcr00k]

Old school draughtsmen definitely had a way to draw a razor sharp line with wood pencils and later with lead holders before mechanical pencils came around. They forced us to learn the technique at college, needlessly, but I use it to this day. If you want to nerd out look up drafting/rolling your pencil. You can get a sharp line time and again with a simple number 2.

[@markpowell6885]

I also purchased the Pentel GraphGear 1000 for the .7 lead, and I like it a lot! I have a bunch of .5 and .3 mechanical pencils that just broke off all the time.

[@loulunetta425]

James, I love the blue fat boy. It looks like a good replacement for my lumber crayons and chalk. But , I will stick with my mechanical 2 mm lead pencil. I have a quarter piece of 220 sandpaper glued to plywood which I use to shape the point. A chisel edge gives a fine line also. Nice video as usual.

[@thomaslavery7760]

We’re you a nerd in high school? With the pocket protector and a zillion pens and pencils?

[@StumpyNubs]

I never attended high school.

[@richragan4810]

As ALWAYS so well done and informative!! My opinion probably one of the best on KZbin. Thank you!

[@toysoldier46552]

I made a work around for my marking gauge. I still need a straight edge but when marking with the grain, I took a piece of dowel, made too small of a hole and used some CA glue and put a nail which I cut the head off in it where the point is exposed. Just make sure the point rides on the straight edge. But anyways, back to house hunting, apparently my landlord is putting mine up on the market.

[@skimark8275]

Great movie, I love lead pen's, just curious what hardness do you use, it always confuses me when I go buy lead

[@MrNoobed]

I might go for that lead holder. Fisher also makes a pen with 2 inks, a stylus (that can be changed for another pen) and a .5 pencil that retracts fully.

[@daifeichu]

Very informative video as usual. I was curious though what hardness of leads you use in those mechanical pencils?

[@halsti99]

ive heard many people swear by the "Zebra DelGuard" pencils. the lead in those is basically unbreakable. as soon as you put on too much pressure, it either extends out a tip collar to support it, or retracts the lead untill pressure lets off.

[@jimsantaferrara8772]

Simply but very informative. Thank you

[@robjohnston5292]

Excellent content as usual. Thanks for doing what you do!!!

[@glenschumannGlensWorkshop]

Thanks. Added a lead holder to my shopping list from your link.

[@alans1816]

I bought the graphgear pencil after a previous mention, and it is handy the tip retracts. But I wish it had a wider eraser.

[@squarelevelplumb]

The only issue I have with knives is that the line cannot be erased if drawn mistakenly ..I realize it isn't scored that deep but a pencil can be erased.