When You Should Strip Automotive Paint & When You Can Paint Over Paint

[@chrisgenovese8188]

super helpful info! those chemical strippers kinda work, but definitely not as good after they removed the methyl chloride. if you lay it on thick, and cover it with saran wrap, that keeps it moist enough to penetrate. i really only use it for areas i cant get a polycarbide grinder wheel into...which painting bicycles, there are plenty of tight spots!

[@soldozer]

The new "Ultra" formula works better. If you have the money you can order some Cooper's Strip Club from NZ. It works as good as the old Aircraft stripper.

[@shanonboykin717]

Coopers strip club paint stripper is the best out there

[@AcuraLvR82]

im currently having to strip down another Acura Integra that had thick paint just like in the first example. And had a massive body kit over top with huge amounts of bondo covering. Im basically having to weld up pin holes and strip and repaint the whole car. Thank you for your videos again, they are very informative and helpful.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Let me know how it goes - I like those older Acuras and Nissan Maximas - very cool interiors

[@frankm8533]

Thanks for the vid. I've slowly been buying body tools again just what ever I can find used online or flea markets

[@LakesideAutobody]

That's good times right there - collecting tools, flea markets, garage sales etc. You're welcome and have a good weekend :)

[@OldJoe212]

I like the polycarb disc in an angle grinder. Doesn't leave scratches in the metal.

[@julianfreto1666]

Thanks for the vids. I got more information than expected from the title

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome :)

[@m-projekt]

Thanks for advice and keep making videos. We are following you. Greetings from Austria 🇦🇹!

[@LakesideAutobody]

I'm glad to hear that - I'll keep them coming. How is living in Austria? Looks like a nice place. Greetings from Michigan :)

[@m-projekt]

Actually very nice, living here is really good balanced in terms of pretty much everything... I have myself a diy garage, I’m an amateur, like to learn new things. You helped me so much with your tips and I just want to thank you 😊

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@m-projekt Thank you - that makes my day. If you keep at it you will be a great body man and painter. Merry Christmas :)

[@richardt6980]

if you going to use paint stripper make sure you get aircraft stripper. it works a lot better than regular paint stripper.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks Richard :)

[@kebmo85]

Thanks for the great videos.

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome - have a good weekend :)

[@curtismuma1931]

You rock! No bull shit. I totally agree! I only painted one show car. A 1968 Z28. Which was my own. Boy i wish i had it back. $$$

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks - BS is no good. I will always tell you what works and what I know for sure. If I don't know - I'll say "I don't know" - but I'll test it and find out for you. Short story about BS. I had a 73 Charger that hesitated when you stomped on the pedal. Do you know how many people I asked about that problem? 1000's - and never found the answer - just a lot of BS about timing, type of gas, ignition blah blah blah. Finally after 20 years I finally stumbled on the answer - the check ball under the accelerator pump discharge nozzles was leaking thus I wasn't getting gas immediately when I hit the pedal. Why didn't someone know that?

[@curtismuma1931]

@@LakesideAutobody believe it or not i knew the answer. I was a old school auto macanhic too. Take care!

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@curtismuma1931 Nice job - wish you were my neighbor back then.

[@moparnut6286]

@@LakesideAutobody Man as soon as you said it hesitated I had it in my head the accelerator pump on the carb....people always go to the most complex answer..... I say kiss keep it simple stupid always start with the basics and go from there.

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@moparnut6286 The big problem is I never really became the master at carbs - I didn't really understand what everything did in the carb. Like Holleys for ex.there's the pump shot, that little cam, the idle circuit, the power valve or whatever, etc. Heck! I never even really knew if my secondaries were opening or not. How can you make sure vacuum secondaries are opening?

[@moparnut6286]

Great video.... Have you noticed the chemical paint strippers have gotten weak...yeah that's because they took away the methylene chloride now you have to buy it from a chemical warehouse if you can get it.... Eastwood sells a paint stripping geared grinder that uses cylinderical wheels to strip paint and bondo the contour SCT and they sell an attachment that turns a regular grinder into a cylindrical style one. I was going to buy SCT but found a similar grinder on eBay for cheaper still waiting for it to arrive, when it gets here I want to strip a door with it to see if it's faster, I used all the methods you used and I like the grinder or the hog to get it done faster.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Let me know how that SCT thing works when you get it. I'm going to check it out. I've had good luck before with aircraft stripper but I think you're right they probably made it real "safe". Happy Holidays to you and your family - Jerry

[@moparnut6286]

@@LakesideAutobody Yeah as soon as I get it I'll do the door and a video on it... I'll be swapping the skin over to the 72 inner frame..... Happy holidays to you and yours!

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@moparnut6286 Looking forward to it :)

[@v8man350]

Fantastic advice Jerry another top notch tutorial video thanks for posting 👍🏻

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thank you and thanks for the comment. Have a good weekend :)

[@UndergroundPaintKing]

Great video Jerry as always!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks UPK - Merry Christmas to you and your family - Jerry

[@UndergroundPaintKing]

@@LakesideAutobody thanks Jerry and Merry Christmas to you and your family as well!

[@mygius1]

Indeed great video, as short and informative as possible

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks a lot. Glad you appreciate that :)

[@Mikefngarage]

ORDER SOME OF THOSE stripping wheels from amazon. They do a better job of removing paint without scratching the metal. almost the same speed as grinding disc. and no heat.

[@LakesideAutobody]

I'll check it out thanks :)

[@hamiltoncooper3603]

Hello sir and thank you for your videos. I hope that you have been attaining more experience on your atomizing equipment.

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome - glad you liked it :)

[@garypostell5268]

Yeah buddy stripped that paint quick! HF grinder 💯

[@snake_eyes_garage]

A question came to mind. What is the best method of working door jambs, complicated recessed areas. I suppose finding a smaller sanding disc?

[@LakesideAutobody]

There might be some ideas in this video - kzbin.info/www/bejne/oXe3hKCahdFkaac Most of the times I hand sand it or use a scuff pad. These work great too for truck beds and door jambs - www.harborfreight.com/3-in-80-grit-nylon-abrasive-wheel-with-14-in-shank-60324.html or www.harborfreight.com/2-inch-80-grit-shaft-mounted-cup-brush-91367.html

[@jm1272jm]

Great information. You mentioned that after sanding with 220 grit the clear coated panel is ready for paint? Would that be for solid colors not for metallics? My understanding 600 grit should be minimum for metallics and 400 grit for solid base. Just curious and thank you for your knowledge and expertise.

[@LakesideAutobody]

220 is the lowest you can go and not worry about seeing any scratches. Many will disagree but for many years that's all we used in one body shop I worked at. At another we used 240. The paints we sprayed were lacquer, acrylic enamel w/ hardener, base coat with clear. If it's a show car you can wet sand with 400 grit or DA sand with 240-320. You'll hear a lot of stuff on the internet but in a body shop 220-240 grit for DA and 320-400 grit for hand or wet sanding is standard. Truthfully you'll never need anything finer than 400 for paint prep.

[@anthonysaoulidis6340]

I enjoy your video’s. Very informative.

[@LakesideAutobody]

I appreciate that - thanks :)

[@drcoolit]

I have an aluminum topper (ARE brand) that the previous owner painted over with black paint (he didn't say what type but I'm assuming latex or oil based). I want to put white paint over the topper to reduce heat build-up from the sun. from what I've seen on the Net it SHOULD be OK to put an oil-based primer over this paint and then use another compatible paint for the final. the final "paint" is actually a COATING (Henry's Tropicool 887 silicone based reflective paint) that the company says will stick to an oil based primer. I just want to be sure that the primer sticks to the underlying black paint. would appreciate any suggestions. thanks.

[@LakesideAutobody]

The only way to make sure is to sand a spot (220 or finer) and prime it. When you sand that primer, it should feather in n the edges and not chip or peel easily. Hopefully they didn't paint it with house paint 😒

[@drcoolit]

@@LakesideAutobody thank you for your input and suggestion. I will try that!

[@dwaynelejeune3508]

great vid for beginner and DIYer

[@LakesideAutobody]

Glad you enjoyed it :)

[@paulpollack9262]

Great video as usual. Is there any chance you might do a video dealing with clear coat problems on a base coat, clear coat paint? Thanks for your videos, they are very helpful.

[@LakesideAutobody]

What kinds of problems do you run into? Not drying, not flowing out, dust, messing up the metallic flakes, moisture, bad reactions, flaking off, dry spray?

[@paulpollack9262]

I'm looking more for a way of fixing an old clear coat that's flaking or delaminating clear coat on an existing finish.

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@paulpollack9262 Got it. If it's just flaking on the hood, roof and deck lid that's sort of good news - means the extreme temps may have helped cause it. If it's all over the car, that's not so good. That being said, the cure is to DA sand the bad areas but just until you get to an area that is sticking well and the edge is feathering. Once you have all the bad flaky stuff off and only good left, you can prime those areas, block sand 120-180 grit, finish sand 220-240 grit DA and paint. Let me know if that's your case if not there's other routes that may be easier.

[@satamanschmidt3428]

I think you misspoke. That isn't a grinder that you were using, it was a variable speed polisher. Grinders run at 5500 rpm in that size and the paint would melt and load the disc immediately at that speed. Get yourself an 8" pad for your polisher and use about 40 grit on something with that much paint on it at about 800 rpm. It will slice the paint off and the discs will last a lot longer. Use the same paper as you use on the mud hog. I prefer Velcro apparently you're fond of PSA.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Hi SATAMAN - good to hear from you - always a pleasure. If I don't hear from you again before the holidays - Merry Christmas :) Thanks for the comment.

[@lad63bird]

just curious, you put down base coat onto a panel after 240 da palm sander? I like to think I can do that but won't you see sand scratches? I don't think I have had good success with anything less than 400 on my palm sander, painting over cured urethane clear factory finish. I will give it a try ....Good Video Thanks!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Anything from 240-320 on the DA will work fine. It might depend on the type of clear you are using too :)

[@UnskilledGrappler]

Thank you

[@LakesideAutobody]

👍😊

[@hhova29]

Very nice video. Glad I stumbled over it. Have a project car I plan to use a daily commuter. The clear coat started peeling on the hood, roof, and bumpers. This past weekend, I sanded it with 320, then 600 until I saw primer. I reprimed it, added adhesion promoter and the added base and clear. My problem is I didn’t have enough base/ clear. Do you think I can sand out the clear coat and add more base and then hit it with 2k clear in order to give it a better more even rich red look ?

[@LakesideAutobody]

Yes, you can do that. Thanks for watching and feel free to ask more ?s if needed :)

[@hhova29]

@@LakesideAutobody thanks so much 🙏. I thought I wouldn’t be able to and had to start from scratch. What grit do you recommend using to sand out the recent clear coat? 1200?

[@LakesideAutobody]

400 wet sand or 320 DA if the paper don't clog up because the paint is sort of new. You can go finer if you want but it's going to be a bit more work. :)@@hhova29

[@hhova29]

@@LakesideAutobody I thank you so much again. I won’t be able to get to it this weekend because of rain. The hood/ roof looks like tiger strips from one angle, 😆 🤦‍♂️. I don’t have a garage to paint and will do it outdoors, but the weather will get a bit colder next week. If I do it next week with the weather dropping at night, can I leave the base coat to dry over night before applying clear after I sand down the clear? Should have enough paint now and even considered using some spray cans for the bumper.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Read the can... if it doesn't say anything like "clear must be applied within 24 hours" your good. I would try to do it the same day though - base then clear. Let me know how it goes or if you have ?s 😊✌

[@notebender5073]

Okay so, I'm stripping the original laquer paint off of a 64 Impala. The paint is checkered badly. I've considered stripping the way you've displayed here. My concern is gumming up the paper with laquer paint. Do you think old oxidied paint will gum up the paper? Would it be best to have the vehicle media blasted. If so, what method to you recommend? I've heard that dry crushed glass is a good way to go, but I'm still researching.

[@LakesideAutobody]

My suggestion is to first try sanding it off. The courser the grit the less it will clog. Use 24 or 36 grit - sanding won't mess with the thickness of the metal. Grinding will though - say with an angle grinder. As for blasting, I've never had an issue with distorting metal using any type of media - never had a super powerful blaster/compressor though either. The ones in a body shop were pretty powerful but still didn't have a negative effect. I use black diamond media from Tractor Supply right now - cheap and works just fine. Let me know what you end up doing. Jerry

[@shunii10]

if you have a perfect factory paint that is matte. can you straight up paint over it w/o sanding with "Rust-Oleum 331171 Painter's Touch 2X Ultra Cover Paint+Primer in one" or do you have to sand it still?

[@LakesideAutobody]

You still have to sand it :) Sanding is good for your arms 💪

[@husky1232]

Great video Jerry thank you

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks - I appreciate your support. Have a good weekend :)

[@joeyhill3698]

I have learned so much from your channel. Would a 60 gallon single stage compressor be adequate to paint a car? I'm getting ready to paint my daily driver with the tips I learned from you.

[@LakesideAutobody]

The 60 gal would be fine. I'm really glad to hear you have learned a lot and enjoy the videos. I'll keep them coming - hopefully one day I'll have ever question covered. Let me know how your project goes. Happy Holidays :)

[@soldozer]

Rent a 15 CFM compressor from a tool rental place. $150 and you're not stuck with a giant compressor when you're done.

[@kkp4297]

i didn't know you could paint right over 240 grit. Wouldn't the new clear coat show the scratches?

[@LakesideAutobody]

No. Most common is 320 on a DA or wet sanding with 400 but you can certainly paint over 240 without issues. Most guys on the internet use too fine of paper - I think they're scared of what the trolls will say :)

[@lucasellyson6872]

So you can just paint over 220-240 grit and not have to worry about seeing scratches? Thanks!

[@LakesideAutobody]

220 is fine for daily drivers - it would take a good eye to find DA marks using 220 - there are factors such as type of paint, brand of paint, use of a sealer, thickness of the paint/clear, etc. To be safe and for nicer paint jobs I would use anything from 240-320 on a DA or 320-400 wet sand.

[@benkalinowski5834]

Where do I get the 36 grit sanding pads for the grinder

[@LakesideAutobody]

benchmarkabrasives.com/collections/aluminum-oxide-resin-fiber-discs/products/7-x-7-8-aluminum-oxide-resin-fiber-disc-25-pac very reasonable prices too :)

[@rudsaki]

Hello Jerry, got all the paint off my truck cab and getting ready to start final metal sanding for primer. I have PPG Omni epoxy primer that states 120-180 grit bare metal prep. I think that might be for hand sanding. What would the equivalent grit for a DA? Thx, Rod

[@LakesideAutobody]

I would say 120 grit will work fine for you. I one shop I worked you had 2 choices for DA paper - 120 and 220. It worked for everything. You can really use almost any grit now that it's down to bare metal - primer surfacer is made for filling any imperfections and sand scratches in bare metal. Jerry

[@racer67]

I have 67 impala its original paint is worn down dull and u can see that rust is comeing up thru the paint does that have to be taken down to metal? I have taken cleaner wax and it takes the brown "rust" out of the paint but if it gets wet a lot u can see the brown comeing back thru the paint.

[@LakesideAutobody]

I would DA sand it with some 120 and see if it takes it down quick smoothing the paint and removing the rust. If that doesn't work, you might have to use rougher paper on the DA or smoother depending on what happens. Basically you should get rid of the rust. So DA sand it, prime it finish sand it and paint. If you have more ?s on that topic feel free to ask :)

[@wildestcowboy2668]

This guy's clearly a little bit BETTA than all of us regular Joe's. He makes it look easier than it is cause he be good.

[@LakesideAutobody]

I appreciate the kind words WC - have a good week my friend :)

[@frankmendez323]

so you just scuffed up the clear on that last panel? asking for my grandma, she's painting her Boss 302 tomorrow

[@LakesideAutobody]

Yes. If the paint is in good condition, you can simply scuff and paint :)

[@gilbertcantu5340]

Great video! I have a red trunk I need to paint grey to match my Mazda6. The trunks paint is in perfect condition do I need to DA sand it or can I just paint over it?

[@LakesideAutobody]

You can quickly scuff it like this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gnbQhqOHlNuYZ9E

[@brucewalters8974]

Hi... After watching your vid.. I agree that the Drill Master appears to be the most efficient method. I have that same Grinder/Sander, but mine came with the wheel that accepts self adhesive sand paper. How did you outfit yours to accept the center hole sand paper ? Any help would be greatly appreciated.. Thanks in advance

[@LakesideAutobody]

I bought the backing pad and washer nut thing from harbor freight too (they came together in a bubble pack). They have it in the store where all the sand paper and sanding discs are. You can get them elsewhere too - the harbor freight one is a bit cheap but works. Hope that helps - let me know how it goes for you :)

[@AndysDogHouse]

Hey Lakeside. After grinding with 36 grit, how many coats of primer would a person need to make that surface paintable? Thanks for sharing.🍁👍👍

[@LakesideAutobody]

2-3 coats of primer surfacer. You can then block it with a sanding board, prime again, finish sand by hand or DA and paint. Or 2-3 coats of surfacer then just hit it with 220-240 on a DA and paint for a daily driver.

[@johnsutter1497]

Have you ever used a national Detroit da sander, although they are expensive mine runs at 65psi which doesn't run down my compressor as fast

[@LakesideAutobody]

My main DA sander (go to) is a National Detroit. They are the best - in my mind. They're made with some weird geometry so that the sand paper stays clean. They don't require a lot of air like you said either. Have a good weekend :)

[@Okie-Tom]

Jerry, my friend who just bought a 31 Model A roadster has the black fenders that someone had painted probably 20 years ago that has big large cracks all over all the fenders. What normally would have caused these big cracks? It is a single stage shiny black paint? By the way, nice video. You always come up with good common sense videos that are very helpful. Thanks a lot! And stay safe! Tom

[@LakesideAutobody]

Most of the cracking, paint checking, bad reactions come from the use of different brand paints or materials that don't mix. For example, if someone sprays a fast drying clear coat over a slower drying base coat then that paint under the clear will not dry properly. I always try to paint using everything from the brand and in the same group (lacquer, enamel, urethane). Like if I am spraying Nason brand paints then the hardener, the reducer, clear coat etc. is also Nason and it's all meant to work together. Good to hear form you as always - Jerry

[@blurredlinez5136]

if i heard you correctly...remove all the old paint if its peeling? No matter what the cause is?

[@LakesideAutobody]

It's like an old garage... if the paint is peeling or flaking, you'll have to strip that stuff off. If its stuck on real well but just checked or has other imperfections you can sand it and bury it with Evercoat Featherfill, sand it flat and paint it. Let me know what you plan to do.

[@mohamedalhalimi9210]

Do we need to coat it after we paint for the 2nd option sir

[@LakesideAutobody]

Sorry - could you ask that ? in a different way - not getting it 😒

[@mohamedalhalimi9210]

@@LakesideAutobody my bad, I meant like do we coat the paint after we paint it?

[@rivermetal]

Hi Jerry, on the first panel, first step you hit it with 36 grit on the grinder, they you finished up at the end with a DA, so what grit on the DA? I guess the paint stripper isn’t what it used to be!!!

[@LakesideAutobody]

i couldn't believe the stripper didn't even touch it. After you strip the paint off you'll want to come back with some 80-120 grit on the DA. Any time it's taking too long with one type of paper, that says that you should be using a rougher grit - then move back to a finer grit. Hope that makes sense :)

[@rivermetal]

Yes sir 👍 Thanks Jerry

[@vaibhavkumar3106]

6:21 what grit sand paper is used in this method where priner is not needed

[@LakesideAutobody]

You can use 220 all the way up to 600 for finer to sand OEM paint with - then paint. 220 is about as course as you want to go and it can leave DA marks in some thinner paints. 240-320 is a good range

[@vaibhavkumar3106]

Thanks for reply

[@pstreetgarage7304]

Great video. All real life scenarios I have come across over the years. Very well done. 36 grit cran scratch metal correct??? Is it better to fill with primer or should plastic filler be applied?

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're fine with primer surfacer. If you want, you can hit it with the DA or hog to smooth out those 36-40 grit fiber resin disc scratches before priming. Have a good weekend :)

[@pstreetgarage7304]

@@LakesideAutobody you also. Thanks !

[@benmiller5015]

So here's my question. Say the majority of the paint is good but you have a small spot of crows feet or a nasty scratch or chip, could you just take that small spot down to the metal then primer that spot, sand it, primer it again if needed to build it back up to level with the existing paint then spray the new color instead of having to strip the whole panel?

[@LakesideAutobody]

Absolutely - DA that area, prime with primer surfacer, block sand, prime again, finish sand and paint. To tell the truth I rarely strip a whole panel. There are ways around it too. Like using polyester primers that can fill the cracks and you can DA it smooth. Sometime though you have to like in the video with that tailgate - had to strip the whole thing - the paint would have just chipped right off. It's really using your best judgement.

[@benmiller5015]

@@LakesideAutobody yeah that tailgate was pretty bad. Have a good weekend. Let's hope that snow they are talking about for the weekend skips us lol

[@angelaisantiagonazario6356]

Why you shy away from the good ol pal grinder with a stripping disc?

[@LakesideAutobody]

What's a pal grinder with a stripping disc?

[@angelaisantiagonazario6356]

@LakesideAutobody lol sorry I meant like, our good-ol-pal, a grinder with a stripping disc. It's super fast but it it heats up the panel something good in my experience.

[@lau12342]

Good video! Do you have opinions about sand blasting a car? I have heard that it's a absolute NO NO and also heard that it's OK with fine grit sand...

[@LakesideAutobody]

I've never sand blasted a whole car. If I've had to strip paint I've used a bondo hog with 36 grit or 40 grit paper on it. I think they are worried about warping panels but if one is careful and takes their time - not generating heat or is way to aggressive I think it would be just fine. I don't think a DIY guy could do it at home as you need a ton of air and sand though. Let me know if you do it of have it done - I'd like to hear the results - Jerry

[@lau12342]

@@LakesideAutobody Yes, Skills needed like you said. I have a '72 Cutlass so I would not like to have that as a test piece. Maybe 40 grit or something similar. Thanks!

[@stewartshackleton7825]

Thanks for the video. I want to paint (base and clear) the bottom half of my car. The paint is factory original and the colour will not change. Is it best to use the 240 grit or can I scuff it to blend the new paint? Thanks.

[@LakesideAutobody]

You can scuff to blend the new paint. If there are any nibs or dust from the factory you can lightly sand them flat with the 240 or finer like 320-400 because you'll be sanding by hand. By hand = finer grit ---- DA you can use a grit that's a bit more course.

[@stewartshackleton7825]

@@LakesideAutobody Thanks for the helpful reply. I will give it go.

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@stewartshackleton7825 Let me know how it goes :)

[@stewartshackleton7825]

@@LakesideAutobody Thanks, will do. However I won't be painting until Spring. I don't have a big space to wield the spray gun so going to be outside. My little melina blue Ford Puma was not sold in North America. Can I send you a couple of photos?

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@stewartshackleton7825 Absolutely - never hear of a Ford Puma. [e-mail]

[@donaldappelhof2059]

I’ve been wondering what to do with my 60 comet.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Is the paint in decent condition? Was it painted a bunch of times?

[@donaldappelhof2059]

@@LakesideAutobody original white paint. I sand blasted front fenders and hood. Car has a lot of rust but I’m cutting it out and replacing with new metal. Probably just strip what’s left and put epoxy primer. You should see the machine I made to make the floor pans.

[@antimpala1]

Hello great video! after the 36 what are the next two grade are you using?

[@LakesideAutobody]

For rough stripping you can use anything from 24-40 grit. After that you can use 80 grit before priming. You can do any body work or filler work before the 80 though. Bottom line is 80-120 before priming with your choice of primer surfacer. Then you'll block sand, prime again, finish sand and paint.

[@antimpala1]

@@LakesideAutobody Thank you so much I really appreciate the fast reply this is my first time doing this I have a 1969 Mercury Marquis convertible and I wanted to go back down to bare metal before I have someone to paint it thank you so much

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@antimpala1 Absolutely - feel free to ask ?s - I answer all ?s once or twice a day :)

[@benkalinowski5834]

I also have a buffer I could use that's is adudtsble

[@LakesideAutobody]

Yes - if you can vary the speed, you're good. Have a good weekend :)

[@oldskool6294]

Great video as always. How do you tell the difference between Acrylic and 2K paint? Can you paint Acrylic over the top of 2k paint without primer?

[@LakesideAutobody]

You can paint any paint over the top of any other paint as long as it is fully cured. By fully cured I mean it's been on there for a while. If you want to spray non compatible materials over each other, the safest way to do that is to wait a few days, scuff it and then spray the other. The rule of thumb is stick with compatible paint materials. Urethane over urethane, acrylic enamel over acrylic enamel, etc. Even sticking with the same brand is safer yet. When in doubt do a test panel and some experiments to find out for yourself - can't always get the right answers from the internet :)

[@scottbobo2145]

paint remover that works is a thing of the past, sadly..

[@LakesideAutobody]

True :(

[@carlgeorgtsigakis498]

I've make my own using caustic soda and wallpaper glue.. Mix wallpaper glue as you would with water, the dry one used for papir, then add the soda.. Nasty stuff and it gets hot, but it works. Use protective gear!

[@autocpr1345]

Do you have an email I can contact you on? I want to share some pics and some info.

[@LakesideAutobody]

The email is listed under the ABOUT tab on the home page - Jerry

[@autocpr1345]

@@LakesideAutobody yeah I thought so but it's not showing up.

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@autocpr1345 OK no problem email: [e-mail] - Jerry