The Ultimate Portable Drone Battery Charger | Build Tutorial

[@jungleb]

Superb tutorial. Awesome tunes from back to back!

[@WhirlyBloke]

@jungleb thanks mate.

[@dmmartin213]

Wonderful I've been looking for some like this I like it so much I've just ordered it from you looking forward to get it

[@jamie.fpv.]

Brilliant tutorial and design, thanks for this. I’ve had an idea similar to this for a while in my head but you have designed exactly what I was looking for. I bought the kit to build however I cracked the acrylic front plate when I stupidly over tightened a screw. I have since had the front plate design cut into real 3mm matt twill-weave carbon fibre and I am re-assembling it again. Looks stunning 👍🏼

[@WhirlyBloke]

Thank you for the kind words. I’m glad to hear the design was just what you were looking for. That carbon fibre front plate sounds incredible and expensive - bet it adds an amazing touch! Good luck with the re-assembly, and enjoy the final result! 👍🏼

[@luisjpcdias]

That’s awesome. Very nice job! I’m thinking about doing something similar. How did you fixed the PSUs to the bottom?

[@WhirlyBloke]

Bolts through the bottom of the case.

[@joshjharris]

Hi, I really like this, I’m looking into building my own, what did you use to secure the power supplies into the bottom of the case? I don’t really want to be drilling to many holes in the case 👍🏻

[@WhirlyBloke]

@joshjharris the powers supplies are very heavy, so don't trust anything unless it's bolted down. You only need 4x4mm holes.

[@flymanjg]

Excelent tutorial. Sir how did you attach your cable organizer to the plastic lid of the case. Thank you for any response.

[@WhirlyBloke]

A simple 3D printed bracket fixed to the lid with VHB tape and a velcro strap kzbin.info/www/bejne/qZWrg2yCqrRpmKc

[@clap-drone]

hello great tutorial I have a question what is the reference of the JST pin header

[@WhirlyBloke]

I designed a 3D printed part that holds the XT60 connector and has slots for a pins from a JST header soldered to some prototyping board. The details are in the video and description.

[@Spinfast]

Your wiring is interesting, yet hardly to reproduce without a plan. At least for "non-electrics" like me. Any chance we can get one from you?

[@WhirlyBloke]

Thanks for watching. The wiring is pretty straightforward and is mostly just extending the connectors on the charger to the connectors on the front panel. The balance port is a 3D printed mount with a custom 7 pin connector. In this video, I made this from scratch, but I now have a PCB version for customer kits. The wiring of the internal/external power source switch is un-necessarily complicated in this first version of the charge case. Later versions just use a single external XT60 connector (2 was overkill) and a simple change over switch. This isn't really a project if you have don't have any electronics experience - it would have taken 10 times as long to produce the video and I'm always stretched for time. I really appreciate your support and I'll definitely keep your comments in mind for future projects.

[@whattheharz]

@@WhirlyBloke Hey, thank your for your answer. But i am struggling (after a stretched build across two month) only at one point which is not shown in your video. Its missing between the cut 30:04 to 30:30 - You do not show where the 2 RED wires go that give constant power. I am really struggling to where two of those will go. Do i connect both of them to 24 volt panel on the top DC Supplier?

[@Spinfast]

@@WhirlyBloke Would love to get this tiny bit of Info from you. To my understanding, both Ends of the red cable coming from the switch need to go to the 24 pad, correct?

[@bp328i]

I'm at the final stages of building my case. I went with the Nanuk 930 and four of the ToolkitRC M9's (I charge a lot of packs at once). Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I've watched this video probably 50 times (0.25 speed / frame by frame / freeze frame) and it looks like the 24v output power from the power supply is being ran through that switch (switch centered = off / switch to right = power supply input / switch to the left = lipo input). If so how is that switch handling that amount of amps being ran through it from the power supply?

[@WhirlyBloke]

You just need to source a suitable toggle switch rated for the max current. Switches are rated for switching and continuous and I suggest you opt for a continuous rating otherwise the switch will be massive. My lates build doesn't have a switch or a DC input, just mains power for the DC supply - I never used the LiPo inputs. If I'm in the field, I use a 300W camping power inverter or a petrol generator.

[@leonsrcs5283]

Would it be possible to buy your acrylic kit with all the wiring pre done so I could literary just plug everything in ? .

[@WhirlyBloke]

Unfortunately not. But all the parts are available. Check the description for links including the laser and 3d parts from my shop.

[@flyingbuffaloaerialphotgra8327]

I was wondering how you hooked up both power supplies on the AC side .. I see the plug in the case ..but was wondering how it does to the two power supplies .. I can under one …but both? Is it in parallel? [I understand about the floating ground]. I have a MD6DAC so I am thinking of wiring in a power strip to make this simpler . The reason you have 24V is because of the 2 MD6’s .. .if there is only one, can you get buy with 12F? Thanx. I was going to buy your kit but I don’t need all of that One M6DAC is fine for my needs and I don’t need all the XT30/60 and balance stuff. Actuallt my Mav2 and M2Air connectors go to banana plugs (and I have a Xt60 to banana and wondering if I can user some auto panel plug panels to make simpler …won’t be as pretty …just to save on cable to store. Do you have any ideas? [Plus I need to use a USB C instead of A connector too]

[@WhirlyBloke]

It depends what you plan to charge really. If you need the full potential of the M6D or similar ToolkitRC chargers you will need 24V using 2 supplies in series. I've done that in another charge case, but ended up never needing to charge batteries that took advantage of it. This case build uses a single power supply which does everything I need. If you're using a single M6DAC I suspect you'll probably just need a single 12V DC supply which makes things easier. This project was really meant to inspire people to build their own and the deck kits were there to make them look nice if you need it.

[@chucksmith155]

Great video I really enjoyed and picked up some very good ideas on build my kit now if you could send me a diagram on wiring up your switch that would help me considerably thank you buddy

[@WhirlyBloke]

Glad it helped.

[@arkmox]

Yes, how to do the switching..im wanting to add battery to power mine also as an option...currently just a server psu

[@stevietee10]

Excellent job, I do so like people who put in the attention to detail and produce proffesional kit, Great job, :-)

[@WhirlyBloke]

Thank you very much!

[@douglasgerasimoff5159]

What laser did you use to cut the pieces with?

[@JWStruggle]

You didn't do this halfway, great build! Curious what the approximate cost to make was

[@jamesmason7124]

How much for you to build me one and ship it to the USA. God bless and keep doing such a good job

[@WhirlyBloke]

The deck kit and 3D printed parts are available here www.xcopters.co.uk/shop/ultimate-portable-drone-battery-charge-case-deck-kit However, if you want a full custom build, delivered, email me on [e-mail]

[@redge4u]

Very Nice , which acrylic plate did you use ?

[@WhirlyBloke]

Thanks. The kit is available here www.xcopters.co.uk/shop/ultimate-portable-drone-battery-charge-case-deck-kit

[@redge4u]

@@WhirlyBloke thx for the answer , but I want to make my own for Sony' batteries and usb ports.

[@WhirlyBloke]

@@redge4u Then I suggest you watch the video and use it for ideas to build your own. In the video I show you how to cut your own panels using a laser cutter, but how you make your own is entirely up to you.

[@redge4u]

@@WhirlyBloke yes your video is very useful, but where did you buy your 3mm acrylic plate, you posted all other items Amazon link but not the acrylic plate , thx a lot

[@WhirlyBloke]

@@redge4u Maybe have a look in ebay or amazon or local plastic sheet suppliers. There's loads of suppliers online.

[@bp328i]

Nice case you built there and great detailed video. If you were to make one today would you use the same chargers or go with different ones? I'm going to make one and there are soooooo many different chargers to choose from.

[@WhirlyBloke]

Yes I'd use the same chargers, mainly because they charge every type of battery I use including the DJI ones. I can even charge the new Mavic 3 ones. But there are loads of chargers to choose from these days. You need to look at what you need, cost and what you trust to do the job.

[@chillywilli]

For my charger I want to build a case with power supplies and an external connection like yours. Without a switch you put power on the outlet of the power supplies from the external source which can damage the power supplies, so the toggle switch prevents that. Did you put the 24V through the switch or is it the 230V going through the switch? I am asking because it is a 20A switch and with the 24V @ 1600W your putting more then 60A through the switch.

[@WhirlyBloke]

The switch toggles the DC input .

[@p3arljam26]

If i were to cut it by hand what is the best tools to use?

[@WhirlyBloke]

Slowly and with maybe a jigsaw or band saw. But acrylic is brittle and the edges will splinter no matter how slowly you go. they can be cleaned up, but laser cutting is the best way. The edges are crsip, clean and polished.

[@p3arljam26]

Do you know what gauge wire is good for a 60mm cooling fan?

[@WhirlyBloke]

Find the fan current rating by either measuring it or looking at the specs and use this table meters.co.uk/american-wire-gauge-awg-cable-conductor-sizes/ to choose the correct AWG wire.

[@HaritTrivedi7]

loved it , more then all , the prosses of design and thinking helps me the most!

[@WhirlyBloke]

Not everyone has the same requirements, but hopefully it's food for thought and inspiration. Thanks for watching.

[@oriongamingtv1401]

If power supply is 100amp how can it work with the chargers when it says only a MAX of 30a?

[@WhirlyBloke]

It's basic electronic engineering really. Using a charger that specifies a maximum draw of 30 amps with a 100-amp power supply is perfectly fine. The system is designed to be flexible, with devices drawing only the current they need. The important factors are ensuring that the voltage matches and that the power supply can handle the maximum current draw of the charger or any other devices connected to it. This setup allows for safe operation and avoids overloading the charger or power supply. The only issue might be if the power supply was spec'd to deliver under 30A, in which case the charger couldn't charge at its full rate.

[@stevietee10]

Where did you get your cable extensions for the DJI Mavic, Inspire etc. batteries? Also are those drone types already part of the M6D chargers or did you just set up custom battery types. Lastly I can't see those batteries are balanced, is that done internally with a small BMS?

[@WhirlyBloke]

I added links to the DJI Mavic and Phantom charge cables in the description. No balance lead is needed for them, just plug into the XT60 and select UAVBat->Mavic or UAVBat->Phantom on the M6D charger menu. These are standard on M6D. Remember that DJI smart batteries have their own internal balance charger, so you just need to supply power.

[@johnfothergill5372]

Top hole sir! I was toying with the idea of building something similar - might have to shamelessly nick a couple of your ideas. Many thanks and keep it up!

[@WhirlyBloke]

Please do!

[@pjogorman4682]

Please ko a video on modify the power supply to a floating ground. Very professional build.

[@WhirlyBloke]

There's loads of them on YT and they are all a bit long winded. This is pretty good though kzbin.info/www/bejne/mmjPd2Spfsx8oqM

[@flyingbuffaloaerialphotgra8327]

@@WhirlyBloke Along the same line, how do you hook up both AC inputs on the power supply to your exernal AC outlet?

[@Teehawk369]

Would you recommend using the xt60 plug and use a xt60 to as150 adapter to charge larger batteries ?

[@WhirlyBloke]

That'll work just fine.

[@shotbyarian]

is there a charger, that can charge the mavic 3 batteries with xt-60?

[@WhirlyBloke]

Sorry, not that I know of.

[@ched999uk]

Looks great and very professional. Well done.

[@WhirlyBloke]

Thanks.

[@RomeyT-dy8bf]

Awesome setup, I’m setting up a similar one charger M6D. Tried to follow your walkthrough on wire but my PSU is still powering up when I plug in a external Lipo as the power source. I must have my DPDT switch wired incorrectly. Any assistance would be great. Thanks for the inspiration.

[@WhirlyBloke]

I'm glad to hear that my setup has inspired you! Assuming that you have a standard DPDT (Double-Pole, Double-Throw) switch, there are a couple of things to check. First, make sure that you have wired the switch correctly. The switch should have six terminals (two sets of three). On one set of terminals, you should have the PSU positive and negative wires connected to the center and one of the outer terminals, respectively. On the other set of terminals, you should have the LiPo positive and negative wires connected to the center and the other outer terminal, respectively. The remaining two outer terminals on the switch should be left unconnected. If you have wired the switch correctly and the problem persists, there are a couple of other things to check. First, make sure that the switch is functioning properly. You can use a multimeter to check continuity between the various terminals when the switch is in different positions. If you're not sure how to do this, there are many online tutorials that can guide you. Another possibility is that there is a short circuit somewhere in your wiring that is bypassing the switch. Check all of your connections carefully, and make sure that there are no loose wires or frayed insulation that could be causing a short. If none of these steps solve the problem, you may need to seek additional assistance from a more experienced electronics hobbyist or a professional. Good luck, and let me know if you have any further questions!

[@RomeyT-dy8bf]

@@WhirlyBloke thank you for the information. I will definitely recheck my wiring again.

[@kool-k-kel]

hi great build fella, can i ask why you have the 2 xt60 inputs? 1 batt to charge in field is one wired as an extra output? for another charger maybe ? bit puzzled. Great usage of the 'switch'

[@WhirlyBloke]

It could be just one XT60 peering both chargers.

[@kool-k-kel]

@@WhirlyBloke for symmetrys sake, thanks for reply :)

[@scottkelly2200]

Do you offer the file for laser cutters and 3d printer files?

[@WhirlyBloke]

Unfortunately not. Thanks for watching.

[@p3arljam26]

Excellent video

[@WhirlyBloke]

Glad you liked it

[@ageranger1541]

Excellent video, I own about 20 lipo chargers and agree the MD6 is one of my favorite chargers. I use two of them and bought a spare.

[@WhirlyBloke]

Right on

[@ukmitch86]

@@WhirlyBloke I'd settled on the m6d, then started reading about voltage calibration issues. Is it a real issue? I plan to exploit the two outputs to parallel charge 4 packs on each side, 4S 3700mAh.

[@fpvnme4845]

double comment as this build was just awesome pal really awesome awesome build great work

[@WhirlyBloke]

Glad you liked it

[@trevorimpulsebuyguy6398]

Very well done project! I hope it serves you well. 👍

[@WhirlyBloke]

I hope so too!

[@Fundalf_the_greyt]

I don't understand, how can 4s (~16V) battery be charging ~25V 6S battery. I', fairly new at this, could someone, please, explain to me, how that works? Thank you

[@WhirlyBloke]

The charger has a step-up switch mode supply circuit on the input. So the charger generates enough voltage for the charge circuit to charge a 6s battery from a 4s supply.

[@fpvnme4845]

Dude , just sweeeeeet

[@WhirlyBloke]

Thanks for watching and the feedback.

[@KArts2004]

And thats how you do a proper video! All available thumbs up! :-)

[@WhirlyBloke]

Thanks for the kind comments.

[@MrAgentEcho]

Thanks for making this. I've used your drawings as inspiration to design my own case. Different chargers so it requires some workarounds and remodeling but I think it came out pretty good. I'll make a video about it sometime in the coming months.

[@WhirlyBloke]

Glad it inspired you. Have fun making it.

[@MrAgentEcho]

@@WhirlyBloke it’s gotten me into a making kick. Next project is a raspberry pi arcade in a Nanak 910.

[@shotbyarian]

any news about the video?

[@Ja5onB0urn3]

That is superb! Quality project at every stage. I wish I had a laser cutter for my panel. I have a 4mm piece of acrylic but I'm still deciding which way to cut it out neatly. Well done. 👍

[@WhirlyBloke]

Thanks. I've had a few enquiries about selling the complete laser cut front panel and 3d printed parts. Not sure yet, so watch this space.

[@Ja5onB0urn3]

I'd be interested if you do! Best regards. ☺️

[@sagittariusalba2851]

Awesome ‼️👍👍👍👍👍👍

[@WhirlyBloke]

Thanks for the visit

[@sunsetpark_fpv]

This is BEAUTIFUL. I wish that I had the ability to laser cut the face plate :(

[@WhirlyBloke]

Thanks. Laser cut anything just looks so good.

[@P-Bee]

So much effort in this video and so few views. Sad :(

[@WhirlyBloke]

Tell me about it. Thanks for watching.

[@davidrgilson]

I'm one minute into this video, and already my bank account is getting worried. Will reply more when I've watched it all as I recently looked into an ammo can style portable power bank build ...

[@WhirlyBloke]

I didn't compromise of components, so just take from it what you need if you make your own.

[@davidrgilson]

@@Drone-Pilot Absolutely!

[@davidrgilson]

@@WhirlyBloke I watched it through and I love it. I have a few ideas of mine own, none of which I think I can afford :-D I think I'd do it with a panel mounted voltage and current display, so I could know how much power I was pulling. I'd also - and here's where the price tag shoots up - build a Li-Ion battery pack with a BMS into the the lid. Probably a 6S2P or 6S4P around 3Ah - that would give you more energy than the big lipo you showed in the video, but it's about £140 worth of batteries! Then instead of the flip switch for DC or AC power, I'm thinking of a rotary switch or some kind of relay to control whether we're using external or internal power and whether to charge the Li-Ions. What do you think?

[@WhirlyBloke]

@@davidrgilson Sounds great. Go for it.

[@BonesFPV]

Wow. This is the absolute shit. Great project, awesome job. :)

[@WhirlyBloke]

Thanks.

[@XavierPil]

Nice but you talk too much

[@WhirlyBloke]

Turn the volume down 😜

[@KArts2004]

Hello, i have 2 of the 1400W (Product Number 733428-101) power supplies. I managed to get the ground of the one case. But i am missing the pinout diagram or manual to get the correct pins for the autostartup. Is there a source I don´t have access to? Thanks Michael

[@WhirlyBloke]

Not that I know of.