Who makes DA BEST Orcs?!

[@OnceinaSixSide]

I think Minirater needs an F tier.

[@pr0digalsun]

😮

[@retnuhretnuh]

Do you have a favorite resin printer that you can suggest? I was thinking about pledging to the Trench Crusade kickstarter to get all of their digital minis, but I don't have a 3d printer yet. Thanks for all the great videos!

[@parallaxgames]

@@OnceinaSixSide I'd be careful with an F tier. That could be a real lightning rod. Save it for "there are errors in this file that make it practically unprintable." For instance, I make proxies for Battletech. Sometimes a part will look fine and I'll run it through a repair cycle and a Boolean will have screwed up in a non-visible way that isn't fixable outside of modeling work in blender (Which is why I test print everything). If a model comes out that is not fixable without that level of effort, more work than is reasonable for the average user, F tier.

[@OnceinaSixSide]

​@@parallaxgames I totally get what you're saying, but I worry that B tier is basically that right now. We've got good granularity on the positive end already with S, and A, but poor granularity on the sour end with just B. Having a second tier down there would lessen the blow of a B rating, and better draw a distinction between releases with some issues versus those that are straight up unprintable.

[@OnceinaSixSide]

So to add to that: The B tier rating would come to mean: Well supported BUT you might have one or two failures. F tier: completely unusable files.

[@morkak1130]

Thanks again for covering my model, I appreciate it!! -As for the supports on it, they are now fixed as I had them properly pre supported by two professionals. Hopefully the same can happen for the full release of the set but we will see.

[@OnceinaSixSide]

Stoked! Looking forward to having another crack at it 🤘

[@Xiv2022]

This is like TV, but a program that I want to watch about things I'm interested in.

[@SmugglerBoutique]

Ayyy thanks for covering my work! And thanks for being so charitable with the rating! In regards to the supports, that model is actually the only model I’ve put up without seeing the test print in-person with my own eyeballs, so that probably explains some of the tip failures! I usually do a couple test prints to refine the supports, but in this case I had to leave early to visit family, so I actually sent the supported files to my roommate, who printed them out and sent me pictures of the results. Lol definitely not the best method for test printing. I get back to my printer next week, so I’ll take a look at the test prints and do another refinement pass on the supports! Also I’m happy to see you psyched at my experiment for supporting the base! Once I get back home to my printer I plan to do some more tests to see just how thin I can make the contact point before the print fails, so I can make the scarring as minimal as possible. Also fun fact, it was all made in zbrush by just eyeballing the thicknesses, because I am a dummy who doesn’t know how to use those other programs you mentioned lol Thanks again for covering my work! Cheers!

[@whittaker007]

Also a bit odd with the rating flip-flopping between S and B and settling on B without ever considering A as an option in the middle right up to the end. I'm assuming it's an automatic grading from Minirater? I've never used Minirater so that would make sense.

[@OnceinaSixSide]

Always a pleasure to be printing Smuggler Boutique minis on the channel! You're doing great work 🙏

[@SetaDragon]

I am mad at you for not wasting more of my time, talking about dimensional accuracy vs tensile strength. ;)

[@parallaxgames]

Add another tier in order to spread things out more. Give yourself some extra room at the top so that you can make the really stellar models stand out, like the support scarring should be a question that drops something down to an A tier from S. If it's otherwise great but you have to file off or fill the scars, then it isn't perfect. Drop your current "B" tier to "C".

[@unadoptedpuppy3535]

As a resin printing newbie looking to leverage minirater: S: Print and forget. A: Basically print and forget. Requires very minor user input and basic printing knowledge. B: Requires user input and solid printing knowledge (beginner cutoff). C: Requires dedicated user input and significant printing experience. D (F): Not worth any time, effort or money.

[@TrulyGenericAlias]

Smuggler Boutique should definitely be getting at least an A Tier rating IMO. Out of scope for this video, but Smuggler Boutique's minis are also an INCREDIBLE painting experience, S Tier for me. Skulltown are also great, but the size and depth of Smuggler Boutique's faces really elevates the orciness.

[@SmugglerBoutique]

Thank you so much for the kind words! I spend a lot of time trying to get the scale and contrast of my details just right, so it really makes me happy to hear that that extra effort is noticeable! Much appreciated 🙏

[@Sadistichippo]

I could never be mad at you for talking about calibration! Some might even say that’s the best bit!

[@Mezgike]

Thanks for the shout out, the great video, and another S tier :-) Glad you love Mezgike minis.

[@OnceinaSixSide]

Glad to feature you again! The work is top shelf

[@ECSlp]

I think minirater could use a question about noticeable scarring and one if it was easy to remove the supports. Maybe one more tear between B and A that says "it prints well, but has some small annoyances during post processing", If you want to go the full mile!

[@ChitosVids]

That first part was great! I often print functional parts that need to be assembled. Accuracy vs strength is super important to me.

[@dreadknot69]

This sort of video with the extra details and discussion is so useful. I'm an FDM guy for years and am thinking about trying resin so this is absolutely fascinating to me.

[@rickedysplit2458]

I'm personally a big fan of MrModulourk's sculpts, they're fun to paint.

[@Spiicyandy]

Love this format, going through STLs and rating. It’s great to listen to your thought process on what you’re thinking and where failures could and do happen!

[@omar1845]

I had the same issue with the cones of calibration using a Saturn 8K and "Siraya Tech Fast ABS-like Resin." To get all the cones on the success side, I had to massively overexpose the print, like 4.5 seconds. Using these settings, the supports were fused on, lol. Using the "Boxes of Calibration," I found the best settings at 2.5 and never had an issue printing decently supported files.

[@yoschiannik8438]

"we got a good community there" understatment if the centruy

[@MrEmmflo]

Thank you for including the calibration part of the video, I'm still figuring stuff out and was using that exact calibration model!

[@crispy_338]

I really wish I had a use for all these minis in everybody’s patreons. I already have a massive backlog of unprinted and unpainted models from just 2 patreons 😅

[@Fezzik312]

Another thing about MrModulOrk is that the .lys files are pretty important because you need to scale the model down if you want them to fit as boys for popular war games. They come with a scaling guide and the presupports are designed to be recalculated on scaled down models. Works great!

[@forrestegan]

Thanks for the detailed reviews of these creators. I’ve purchased a few models from a few of them in the past and had great success. Sometimes it’s hard to give them low scores because the models themselves are awesome; however, some of the models are older and don’t have the same higher quality supports as many of their newer models. I would suggest, if you’re not already doing this, to maybe grab an older model and a newer model from their collection to see if BOTH are high quality, or if the older models aren’t supported as well, or vice versa. Some of them eventually go back and re-support their older models which are still popular; but as the customer you often don’t know in advance which models were/weren’t professionally supported. Then again, I’ve also purchased some of their newest models and had issues (e.g. resin traps in hollowed parts with poor drainage…not that the parts cracked over time, just that getting ALL of the resin out seems impossible and the drain holes don’t allow enough access to cure from the inside with proper UV lights designed to go inside the model through a drain hole)…I’m not going to get into specifics here, as it’s not fair to use YOUR comments section to knock a particular creator.

[@devindraper7905]

Awesome video! I for one love seeing "how the sausage is made" to get a better understanding of the topic and what I might be doing wrong or incorrectly assuming, etc.

[@Arturius_Rex_8]

Granularity could be achieved by having different 'scales' or 'sliders' that combine for the overall rating. For example: file organization/type presence could be '-'/'minus', flat, or '+'/'plus'. Using this I would imagine supports would fall under: unsupported=red, pre-supported w/ scarring=orange, overly pre-supported=yellow, 'perfect' pre-supports=green.

[@Seeraphyn]

When you can't find an exposure time that gives you good dimensional accuracy AND prints the cones, you should try to "soften" the peel, so lower the lift speed, sometimes add 1 second of wait before lift time, increase the slow portion of the lift, things like that.

[@nonamo5700]

I'd originally posted to ask what you're doing for an enclosure, but had that answered by another video you posted; a grow tent if I got it right? Appreciate the videos; came for the orcs, stayed for the ideas on how to do better fume evacuation

[@Sauruss]

Great video as always! For Minirater, adding one or more extra tier could be helpful. I also value some stuff more than others. - There's all the before printings stuff that are nice to have, convenient things (files organization, renders, and extra files like lychee or chitu files, etc.) - Then, I ask myself is there supported files, and how do the supports looks (islands, etc). - Finally, once printed, hows does it look? Best tier here is a near perfect print with no or minimal clean up. Then a lesser tier, printed file but with a bunch of scarring or small failures. And then a fail tier, where the mini just breaks while removing supports, is just not removable or just didn't print!

[@reverenddmo8944]

MrModulork, Smuggler Boutique, Skulltown Minis and Bluesky Minis are my go-tos for greenskinned goodness. Gorgeous models that come out perfect on my Saturn 4 every damn time. Can't recommend these guys enough.

[@S.A.S.H.]

Yes more granularity, B tier for support issues and a lower C tier for prints that fail, or have missing parts.

[@rootkit8603]

Such a timely video. Was just thinking about starting orcs.

[@mordecaitoth6703]

Great video! I use Minirater all the time and extra detail for the ratings along with more intuitive tier names would go a long way, imo. Thanks for sharing!

[@Goreface9]

You mentioned adding a few more questions to minirater, you could also add "Did you need to reprint these models for better quality?". I'd also add two more tiers, C and F. B tier would become "this will take effort to fix or remove supports, but it's doable", C tier would become the new B tier for models that don't fall into A or C, and F would be "these models can't be saved"

[@PewpewFiah]

That 'new' base support I first saw in the ""'Grand style Ten Three thousandth""' community, almost all of the multi-mini bases were done in that way over on cults. They're such a better way to do it

[@whilstingdog]

For things that are not accounted for in your scale you could give it - or + depending on if it was a good or bad thing. Auto supports make it a b- instead of a B etc.

[@khanayudash2475]

Txarli Factory has their bases supported just like the one from smuggler's boutique here, and it is blooming incredible, even their toppered basses have that style of support with pillar supports only used as necessary

[@joshheinz5328]

I think Minirater doesn't need more granularity, per se, but a rating for results. Because, honestly, I don't care if the designer used autosupports, or if there are errors that still print fine. I only care if it prints correctly, without failure. So, consider a "printability rating", as a percent or grade, that would tell me at a glance how likely the files are to fail or not.

[@syphatrol4217]

3:30 while printing the cones of calibration, I got a pretty big different result for ideal exposure time printing the cones using an exposure range finder like the anycubic one and printing the cones one at a time and modifying the exposure as I went. The ones printed one at a time gave me a result about one second lower than the range exposure finder. I was able to take this exposure setting and print a full size titan with minimal print failure that, usualy the fault of my bad supports. Curious if anybody had similar result to mine.

[@OnceinaSixSide]

Interesting! I'll have to look into that

[@Luca__]

Nice video, thanks for investing all that time! One thing that stood out to me was your rating of the islands at 6:18 There is an obvious island right next to the one you pointed out as being well supported. Why didnt you just run the lychee island detector? I know its not as good as the UV tools one but still it would have gotten at least that one

[@jb1139]

I had issues with not great supports the last few weeks, which sucks because I get limited time to print and I dont want to spend it reprinting failed parts. Lets just say I had several "Big'uns" bodies that were failing on the arms, Axes that were failing, and a shaman whose tusks did not print. The sculpter is usually pretty good. But I had to go in and support not just the under supported arms and tusks but some of the original supports for good measure.

[@GrumbleBeeMN]

The calibration stuff was good; a handy reminder efresher.

[@sillylung]

I'm so glad I came across this video. I literally just got a Mono 2 3d printer today. I pretty much plan on using it to print Orks

[@akumaking1]

Somebody made TF2 Orkz. Awesome

[@99Blocks]

Maybe add a + and - with some more granular options. Like you can have A-, A and A+ Make it "Advanced options". So you can still do the simple rating of A,B and C or you can be more granular with the additional + or -

[@Keseleth]

You could introduce minuses as a sign that stls technically fulfil all the conditions of a tier, but not quite and there is something off about it.

[@nikroth]

Your videos are always awesome ! Thank you mrSix !

[@geistwulf]

Was hoping to see some DakkaDakkaStore orks in this, oh well, their loss. Skulltowns' prints also do well on FDM. Had a lot of fun painting thier Blade Master mini.

[@HelterSkelter199]

I always print out TableFlip's original v1 Puck, I think only available on their discord now, as the practical conformation print to compliment the Cones any time I do a calibration. The left arm of Puck is supported to be a indicator of tip separation and pancaking. Also thats the first time I've seen the continuous supports in the wild so thats neat. You can sort of ape the effect in lychee using inline supports with a really tight spacing

[@EdAllen]

I'd probably do two more tiers, move current B (some failures/disconnected tips) to C, have a new B where the print is successful but excess scarring or difficult support removal, basically badly oversupported, and an F tier for many fails or lots of work to get models to print or such bad modeling errors it hangs the slicer.

[@DarrylAdams]

It is your settings, as your settings are optimised for an environment where everything outside the printer wants to kill you.

[@edwardjohnson5527]

Great video! Really enjoyed it. I agree with others here that I think you should add a C tier to your rating system, which should pretty much be for failed prints. If technically it didnt fail, but its scarred, bad auto-supports, or detatched tips, then make it a B. If it has none of those issues then make it an A. If it prints perfectly and has all the file types, file organisation, cloud etc then make it an S. Interesting that your system doesn't include any aesthetic rating for the model. Subjective I know, but maybe still worth adding separately?

[@fish7598]

I feel like support scaring really needs to be a factor because right now it doesn't seem to be. Disconnected tips are a symptom, but the actual problem is the level of scarring we see. I think it should be looked at as a signifigant factor with maybe three positions of granularity (None/light/heavy). feels way more important to me than something like renders (not that those don't matter, but IMO it's a more signifigant factor of how well a model is supported for me as an end user)

[@Felipe.Portugal]

Minirater does need more granularity, it lacks a few categories that would help to understand the files better.

[@shadeypotion]

Smuggler Boutique & Trollet orks print well on Bambulabs A1 mini

[@donewiththis-2012]

S Tier: Absolutely flawless. Perfect supports, perfect files wit no errors, renders in files, slicer files and top notch organisation, maybe even PDF instructions for larger vehicles etc. A Tier: Almost flawless. Possibly a couple of errors, or a missing render, or missing instructions if large kit but very minor QoL issues rather than technical issues. B Tier: Multiple errors, no renders, high percentage of error files (say over 5%), poor supports, complete lack of organisation etc. U Tier: I was going to say trash tier but I know the idea is to encourage people to improve, not to put them down. U tier is "Ungraded". They've been rated but fall short on so many points both in QoL and technical that they shouldn't have been really released yet as they're not ready. Basically the AAA games that are rushed to release then have 30gb of Day 1 patches of STLs. Take away feedback from the reviews left and work on it, then hopefully you can get into the higher tiers as you progress and learn.

[@RocktCityTim]

Good questions to add!

[@battlebrothersam]

Great video lad! I see this is what you meant when you said you calibrated the PAS10 resin for other printers! lol Print farm videos incoming? :D I had the same thought when I seen the scarring from those supports, not many people choose to have sphere tips on their supports and by standard on lychee at least it uses no tip. Mezgike is da best Ork Boi though and the presupportist (is that a word?) really goes through it with a fine comb and is a top bloke as well. Keep the videos coming!

[@clanpsi]

I subbed last month for your thumbnail. Best $5 I've ever spent on an STL. As far as Ork creators, check out Solar STL. He's just starting, but I like his designs. He does mostly Orky vehicles and walkers.

[@TastyTacoN1nja]

One gripe I always have is that nobody provides good guides on what part totals you need to finish a mini and I'm usually left to guess based on the MMF preview image and opening all of the unsupported files to find what I need. Images of built out models with stl file callouts would be nice or an array of all parts in a category all lined up

[@ChaseDaOrk3767]

I definitely want more Orks!!

[@Giddoens]

Thank you for all your hard work, I have learned so much from your content. I have a GK 2 and use Sunlu ABS Like and I have tons of cool prints for my rpg game table....

[@AnotherNewManGaming]

I wonder, if you it would be possible for STL creators, get a badge or something that can add to their models page so that they can highlight that it is an Stier rated mini.. and then people would be able to have some confidence when buying the model.

[@crimson182]

Mr. Modulork is the only one I have had issues with. His models are broken down into tiny parts and most of them break off the supports as I am trying to remove them from the bed. I have had to reprint many pieces because the parts are so tiny and when they fall they often end up getting lost. Many of is parts or so thin that I can see through then and they often break while trying to assemble them. I have also tend to have print failures with any larger pieces.

[@TheAlphaDingo]

happy Orktober to you all -waaaaaaghhh!

[@raincoast_bear]

Yeah, I don't bother with pre-supported files. With pre-supports, almost half the time something on a plate fails causing the need to reprint or worse, clean and repair the vat. I use chitubox auto support on fine and then add some mediums. I rarely have problems with the auto-supports.

[@chesteratienza5175]

I gifted this set to a friend the ones in the thumbnail, the models cool 😎

[@Nuds1223]

Here for the discussion of calibration of resin

[@tarnocdoino3857]

A warning: Skulltown Minis went dark a month ago. I joined their patrion after seeing this and never got a release after a month. He’s gone dark since and nothing for December either.

[@nicholasvinkler1635]

This dude makes the best content

[@Calvin_Coolage]

Ah using purple resin so the Orks have an innate stealth bonus, good choice.

[@costin4756]

Love the videos! Keep it up mate

[@arkurianstormblade4109]

maybe its me but Im always surprised (mainly on Cults 3D) that people sell unsupported minis. like I sort of get it, auto supports are sometimes okay, or it isnt that hard to learn supporting (relatively), but still i dont feel comfortably myself buying STLs and knowing I also have to start doing either auto supports which could fail or manually supporting everything. at that point I could just save myself some money and just find free unsupported models!

[@burrowsforge]

Is there a video on the current printer enclosure & ventilation setup? It looks like a grow tent maybe? I’m trying to put together a good setup for my office so I can be in the room while the resin printer is running

[@OnceinaSixSide]

Yep! kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z2TbhoaigLtngqc

[@75keg75]

You can’t split difference between 3.25 or 4.25. Maybe do 0.1sec increments to balance strength back looks?

[@200Rats_in_a_Trench_Coat]

Oversupporting is a very annoying problem to encounter. I just got a bunch of totally fantastic Space Dwarf minis a recent Kickstarter and I have to go in and redo all the supports. The presupports definitely don't fail, but they're so thick and so plentiful that I needed to use clippers and a hobby knife to remove supports and I still had multiple breakages on the one plate I've printed thus far. If I had to guess, they're probably playing it too safe and assuming the end user is printing the models massively underexposed or far too fast, but I don't think the tradeoff of guaranteeing a successful print under garbage settings is worth making support removal a nightmare.

[@DJRockford83]

Was that weird strip on the build plate you levelled in the filled vat by any chance? 👀

[@SlainBlackguard]

What a great ending to Orktober!

[@whittaker007]

The tiers seem to be a bit warped. S, A and B are a bit too compressed. If you're sticking with 3 just change them to grades: A, B and F. But really seems like you should broaden the gradings: S: Above and beyond. Everything prints perfectly with no deformations or scarring, and beyond that the structure of the supports has been optimised to minimise waste and/or other conveniences to save resin, processing, cleaning and assembly time. A: Perfect prints, but room for improvement in manual support optimisation or file options. B: Excellent prints, but not bulletproof. Resin settings need to be tuned, or there is an excess of supports, some sub-optimal orientation or some kind of annoyance or issue that may require intervention to work around in a small percentage of files. C: Good prints, but you need to know what you're doing to make them work. You're better off manually supporting them yourself in many cases. F: Just autosupported junk. High chance of failure. Unsupported islands, prone to warping or tearing off. You'd be better off if no supported files were even provided so you don't waste your time.

[@AyabaraGaming]

to be honest, I think the puppetswar presupports are an ongoing issue. I have my settings on my saturn 4 ultra dialed in perfectly, and I had 4 failed prints in a row of his "mikey" TMNT orc, with the model splitting horribly at the neck every single time

[@KiwiKJ]

Instead of Tiers do a sliding scale for how easy it is to get the minis onto the tabletop. You could do it out of 5 or 10 and just have it more gradual rather than using rigid tiers. More questions will help with this scoring system as well, where each one will either add or deduct points from the scale. If you did it as an end result of #/10, each model could start as a 5, and each question deducts or adds points to the scale, with total and absolute complete failures resulting in less than a 5.

[@OnceinaSixSide]

Oooh I like it!

[@rafacardoso8965]

The biggest problem with that system is that not all questions have the same value, for example does it have minor error on the slicer should not be worth the same as does it leave scaring on the mini or if some support ends have disconnected. That would mean that an oversupported mini that leaves a lot of scars coud still potentialy get a 9 out of 10 ​@@OnceinaSixSide

[@john_mystery]

Doing the prints in an enclosure this time. How does it compare to the previous way we’ve seen you print?

[@awildtomappeared5925]

your z height looks to be about 1mm low on that, check the height of the block on the cones (should be 6mm unless you have an old cones version they say the measurement on the side) and the overall height up to the top text should be 10mm. Also if you can't get cones while DA make sure you aren't going too fast 3>3mm height 60>180 180>60mm/min is usually a good safe setup

[@oniaeon]

The purple colour's nice on the calibration test, but did you switch to clear when you printed the orcs? I couldn't see any of the gits at all 🤔

[@benstaffordson7163]

Really enjoying Mr Modulork. I'm printing off his WARG files for an imperial guard proxy. There were some tiny issues with them so far - mostly just I hate vehicles that don't have keys to fit together, so you're awkwardly holding tracks to the side of the tank but they're awkwardly floating. A few pieces that printed but don't sit perfectly flush, but hey, close enough. Tiny bit of greenstuff and it's fine. Gotta admit, as simple as it is I'm glad that they truly are modular - can mix and match kits within each range, but also from other ranges. Can make an interesting character with that. Also yeah, you really should have more varied ratings. I'd assume a B-tier mini is still a good file, but it could be absolute garbage with your rating system.

[@joshgrillo2482]

Saw that Battle Brother Sam had fails using same resin. Compare notes?

[@toddhunter123]

Only suggestion is you should have used cones and then the first prints would have worked

[@MrMaltavius]

Add a question about Support scaring to Minirater should fix the problems with Autosupported minis getting S tiers

[@sarven5974]

shoulda printed some of them on FDM for the fun of it to see how they turn out on them :3

[@ForgersWill]

I usually 3d print statues, would minirater be a bad spot to put the creators up for grading?

[@Potato_217]

Im disappointed in you, man. I started watching your channel with the imperial guard combat patrol print, and not once in this video did you go "THE CONES OF CALIBRATION!" voice effect. Damn.

[@OnceinaSixSide]

Haha I shit you not I almost did throw that in here, but then I was too lazy to go digging for the soundbite. I'll make sure it's present next time 🥲

[@nonamo5700]

I'm guessing you already have a video on supporting and how to alleviate support scarring; and I am going to go look after this video. But in case I forget to come back and ask; if you don't already have such a video I very much am interested. I've been learning how to support minis on my own; and support scarring has been giving me headaches.

[@Starexe97]

This actually proves how we really need AI the help creating 3D printing supports

[@OnceinaSixSide]

For real, I can't wait til we have a solid auto supports engine. Someone needs to hurry up and feed a neural net a shit load of high quality lys files to analyze

[@PlaySupport-n1w]

Much good information here. I do presupports for some patreons and myminifactory tribes and can maybe shed a bit of light on some of this. Many customers don't make all that much money, especially when just beginning so they want to cut costs as much as possible. This means that often times they will not test print the files or ask for the files to be test printed. Some only test a couple of files and some test 100% of the files. There is always a balance between success rate and how easy the supports are to remove and while for most cases an experienced person doing supports will have it just right 99% of the time but it can happen that the tips should be just a tiny bit bigger. This could happen even if it was test printed due to different resins and printer calibration. EDIT: the cost cutting some do is not just to make more money, they seriously can't afford it and I've seen people do their best with the models but still not make enough money to stay afloat. So don't be too harsh.

[@OnceinaSixSide]

You're not wrong. When I did it myself professionally the pay was shit for how much work went into it, and the test printing cost a small fortune in resin (albeit the cheapest most garbage resin I could get in bulk) so I totally get it. It never feels great judging these things, but I do believe it has a net positive effect on the industry.

[@PlaySupport-n1w]

​@@OnceinaSixSide Oh I agree we do need to speak about how well the work is being done. I got into it only because I was frustrated so many presupports were just done badly and I ended up supporting the files that were supposed to already be supported so many times. But since then presupported files have been getting better.

[@PatrickWaddingham]

I'm a big fan of Malicous Minis. I use their heads for everything I do when I "need" a print from someone else. I've had a hard time supporting their minis myself, though, honestly. I'm no support savant or anything.

[@lukehags0072]

Could you please do one of these but for black templars 🙏

[@theboredlich215]

Probably just add tags to mini rater. Like "Support scarring" or "Minor detail loss"

[@friendsheep135]

Other tiers and feedback systems may just clutter minirater honestly. My recommendation would be to add tags or something similar for the reviews; that way those of us who know can identify whether files were auto-supported, which kind of files were included, or other finer details like that. Also support scarring could be noted

[@tarnocdoino3857]

I’m running a Mars 2 Pro. I’ve not done a plate level in 18 months. I mostly run Sunlu resin, with occasional anycubic. I’ve not had a failed print in 75 prints. The machine sits in my basement. I have absolutely cranked out so many puppets war models, piper makes, and artisan guild stuff. And I always use the pre supported. Is this luck?

[@OnceinaSixSide]

Resin printing really is this straightforward and easy for most people. Where it falls over is with shitty supports, and thankfully this is becoming less and less common as more and more studios give greater care to the process which I'd say is why you haven't encountered any print failures.

[@JP-dv7rf]

Great video! My apologies if I missed it but what printer/resin is used here? The quality looks great.

[@DarrylAdams]

On another point: I do need to know more about Raid shadow legends and what VPN you prefer

[@Godofantz]

Hey what kind of tent are you using for your printers? I have a pretty good air evacuation setup in my house but i would love to be able to use the room while im printing 😂

[@diegomartinez4451]

Hey man do you have a video talking sbout you support settings, specially the tips?? Im having some trouble with scarring!

[@OnceinaSixSide]

Yeah of course, it's the long one here kzbin.info/www/bejne/fX-XiZRjqZWtpNEsi=RdolsTWNJNpG-cZC There is always going to be some amount of scarring, because you need anchoring supports to ensure printing success. So the trick is to place them where they're not gonna be seen.

[@diegomartinez4451]

@@OnceinaSixSide Thanks man! I saw that but since thats a bit old, i thought maybe you had new settings. I have the s4u and since it got the tilting vat im tryin to push it to have as tiny supports as possible. Cheers!

[@diegomartinez4451]

@@OnceinaSixSide hey im sorry to ask again, but can i ask you specifically your support tips profile on the saturn 4 ultra man? thanks in advance!