Why are the Bake and Broil Elements Not Working on Electric Oven WHYYY!!!

[@Southernsunnygirl]

Man...for us single women who like to fix our own stuff...you have totally educated me! Thank you!

[@JoseAguilar-jj4zd]

Good learning, how can I get the board diagram GE,

[@larryc1287]

Thank you very much for this video..My gram is 80 years old and on a fixed income..Her GE is dealing with this issue and she was worried about spending money that she doesn’t have..After watching this video I now know what I need to repair...Keep the video’s coming brother 🙏🏾🙏🏾👍🏾

[@quietginja9946]

4 min in and you've given me more answers than any other video. Thank you!!

[@positiveperspective41]

Ditto

[@vickirutherford5619]

@@positiveperspective41 You 😊😊

[@josephfolsom2030]

You have made this very simplistic. I have been an appliance tech for over 40 years, and you have taken the fear factor out of it for the Do it yourself’r

[@KaliMax1337]

Thanks to your helpful video, I diagnosed my oven issue. It was the DLB relay, something I never knew about. This led me to either replacing the entire control board $400, buying a replacement oven $$$ or learning how to source parts, desolder relays and solder new relays onto circuit boards. AMZ had the relay for $10 and my oven is now working as intended. Thanks again!

[@The_Rudz]

Damn man. This is gold! Super clear and concise and no stupid music. Subscribed.

[@shanehaskins8347]

thanks for posting your video. I just checked my brothers kenmore and found the 110v terminal to the relay on the board needed to be resoldered.. works perfect again. His wife is pissed off as she wanted a new range...lol thanks again.

[@TonySims888]

Brother, you rock! Excellent, clear explanation, great diagram. Walked me right to the source of my problem -- the relay for the L2 failed, and once I removed and inspected the control boar,d I found that the relay failure actually damaged the PCB of the control board -- cooked a couple traces right off the board! Thank you for your top quality content!

[@radioactivej]

Great video. Thanks for your help. My broil element was the only thing not working on mine. With the help of a couple of your videos, I was able to determine that it was my control board. I tested continuity on both elements and both legs of the power using your videos and the diagram on the back of the unit. I also checked the thermistor which was working correctly also. Now if you can just tell me how to troubleshoot and repair my control board since they don't make it any more! LOL! Thanks again for the great videos.

[@benkanobe7500]

For those of us that can understand a very basic schematic, this is THE best description of how these ovens work. I can now see it in my head and feel comfortable I can diagnose why I lost both broil and bake at the same time. Thank You!! I have two questions - 1.) Geographically, where should I look for the fuse on L2, and is it obvious it is a fuse and not a fusible link or something like that? 2.) If I determine either type of the old/new relays is bad and I have the skill, can I just get the part number off the relay and remove and replace it without replacing the board or is it better to replace the board assembly?

[@BeardedApplianceRepair]

Most of the time you find that fuse on the back wall. Unless its a frigidaire. They are sometimes on the top of the cavity, which is underneath the cooktop on a range. As for repairing boards, I am not that guy that can tell you a bad relay is bad. I can guess but that is as far as I can go. As for the part number, yes you should see it on the needed relay.

[@benkanobe7500]

@@BeardedApplianceRepair Thank you. I look forward to learning more from you. You would be a great College, High School, or Trade School Teacher.

[@FadetoBlack61]

Loved the video. Was using I while working on my no broil and no bake heating element issue. None of these issues were the problem though, wanna guess what it was? Limit thermostat for the cooling fan! Bypassed it for testing purposes and the oven fired right up with the broiler as well.

[@kendalllambert8769]

Your explanations were very helpful and informative. I guess I have a special issue. I checked all test points you referenced, all were good. My issue was the Relay on the Oven Motherboard not working properly, sticking. But, your instructions helped me greatly to diagnose the problem and eliminate the normal failure items. Thanks again!

[@MiningChef]

My broil and bottom element don't work. I checked for continuity and it was good. The weird thing is each side is getting 120 and it's not heating up. Hmmm I have a back middle element and heats up . Hmm

[@89DrFunk]

Dude thank you so much for this lesson. This helped me out a lot on my next call coming up.

[@brianboots555]

I have a silly question how do you test that fuse?

[@clarenced.950]

Excellent job breaking that down. Turned out you are right on the money my DLB relay had failed. I temporarily jumper out the relay to confirm the diagnosis and the bake and broil element worked. I guess in theory you could replace the relay on the board or just replace the board. That video was definitely worth a Subscribe

[@leemann1963]

Excellent video. I was able to find the (red) DLB relay on the control board for my GE oven/microwave combo, then found the burn marks on the other side. I found the relay online for $10 and replaced it. All good now. THANK YOU.

[@Ysfishm]

Amazing video! I have a thermador electric oven that only runs on broil even when it set to regular bake! Any ideas ? Thank you

[@daletaylor5890]

I’m having an issue with just my bake element. First off the element OHMs out at 21 which is the same as my working broil element. When I turn the oven on I get 240 on the element for 15 seconds then I loose it after hearing a relay click. After loosing the 240 I check each side of the element to ground and I’m getting 120 on each side. Do you have any recommendations on where I should look next? Could the element ohm out good but not hold up to the load? I’m scratching my head here. Thanks for any help

[@hhrusty]

Thanks for the dryer (bravo xl) element repair. My detect light doesn’t go out and no heat. Do you Think it is the heating element or the airflow detection circuit?

[@philipbulman4314]

Great video. L2 was the issue with my wall oven. Loose wire connection in the junction box. Was fooled by the fact the display showed ok. Thank you!

[@BaronBL79]

I was so happy to run across this and it made so much sense! Thank you. However, when I went to go test my non working oven when h tested each side of the baking element terminals, I got 120v on each side. However when test both of them together I get nothing?!!! How is that even possible? The broiler and the baking element not working, and I definitely have 240v coming into the oven. The heat fuse does have continuity. Ugh! I could have sworn I would have been able to effectively troubleshoot after this video, but wasn’t expecting to see 120 on each side of the element when I tested volts with ground. Any other things to troubleshoot?

[@tomaspesliii4618]

Thanks for this very suthing to listen to you . Unfortunately my Samsung flex oven NE58F9710WSIAC doesn't seem to have any fuses. I tested all oven elements, temperature sensors, temperature fuse. I get 120v on all elements if I measure one side and ground. If i measure both leads together I get like 5v I should be getting 240v there correct? Stove top works fine.

[@puertoricovibe]

Thanks for the video! My oven Kenmore 48089 only seems to have a high limit thermostat switch near the fan. I tested continuity on it and it's good. The only thing that doesn't work are the heating elements. All controls and everything work. Any idea?

[@kennethryan3264]

Excellent video. The oven elements (inc broil) of our 20 yr old MAYTAG stove (model MER5770BCW) have stopped working and we removed the back panel. But we cannot locate the fuse to check if it is the problem. Videos seem to show a small two bladed fuse screwed in the back of some MAYTAG stoves but we don't see anything like that on ours, or any kind of fusible link in the wiring. Is there an obvious location for the thermal fuse or somewhere else where we should be looking? Any advice would be appreciated.

[@beachamboy11]

I don’t think mine has a fuse. It’s not getting 240 at the element but it is at the plug connections. Should I replace the board?

[@johnliles4975]

This is fantastic info! I have an old, whirlpool rb270pxbq1 double, wall insert oven. First the bake heat went out. It would only get to around 100 degrees, then crapped out all together. However, the broiler still worked like a champ. Then out of the blue the broil stopped heating up too. I haven't check anything out yet. My bottom oven still bakes and broils. The top oven, all the controls still work, but again, no heat. What would cause one to partially work, then not work; broiler worked then not at all?

[@johnliles4975]

I'm also having a hell of a time finding that this oven even exists according to the internet.

[@BeardedApplianceRepair]

Make sure your element are ohming good. Should be somewhere around 30 ohms. If they are open than its simply bad elements. If they test good, and this sounds like an old one, You probably need a new thermostat for it and I hope you can find one. I condemned an old oven this week because it was one of those parts you cannot get anymore.

[@renaechoat3727]

This video was so Helpful, and I’m thinking it’s going to be my Bake Element Relay since the Broil works but not the bake element, can you just order the bake element relay alone or would I have to order the whole control board? Thanks

[@brocksnyder5889]

What would cause a light to be on in a GE built in but still no heat? Fuse & door switch? Just the door switch?

[@paultejan9027]

I have both good elements. I have 120 only on one side of both elements. The side that has nothing connects to both elements. I can't find a fuse on this Frigidaire oven unless it's hiding somewhere. I don't see it in the schematics. So I am sure it must be a relay that failed the control board . Your video definitely helped.

[@Nostrafatu]

Are the fuses different than regular fuses? Do they reset ? I installed a new control panel and the ovens (dual) shut off after it reaches certain temp I also get no error code and the burners work fine. I am stuck with a new control panel and no ovens. There are other smaller control boards back there (Frigidare) but I am thinking it's some safety feature that shuts off the ovens for some reason.

[@bocfat]

Explained like a champ, like a champ so helpful!!!!

[@ramheer6160]

Thanks for this detailed video.I have Inglish stove. Bake element ( bottom one) works perfectly fine.Broil element comes on and off ,some time it goes off after 5 minutes, some times it doesn't work at all .

[@BeardedApplianceRepair]

If your element tests good. I believe broil element are somewhere around 15 ohms. 15-30ohms. If it is there than I would think it would be a relay on the board failing. Keep in mind during the bake sequence, the broil element is only used for preheat. Afterwards it should not come back on. Broil element should only work in broil and for preheat on bake.

[@RH-lz3om]

I have 240V on both bake and broil elements when control is set to BAKE/BROIL. When set to BAKE at any temp setting other than BROIL, I get a about 60 volts on both the bake and broil elements. What do you think is the broblem? Thanks for your assistance and great video.

[@lieutenantlawson4295]

Excellent, I like the laid back instructions. Great digesting it. Keepem coming!

[@BeardedApplianceRepair]

You can fix anything as long as you know how it works. That’s the key to these puzzles.

[@happywrenching33]

@@BeardedApplianceRepair The broiler on my electric Kenmore range(around 20 years old) heats up (the element glows red) but will kick off well before reaching 500 degrees. It heats fine on bake though. The ohms checked out good on the element and temp sensor, so what would make it stop calling for heat before the oven reaches temp when using the broiler? Thank you

[@bphorvath399]

Great video. Replaced the bad element. It was fried. With new element, took 60 minutes to get to 240 degrees. Put broiler on heated real slow too. Multimeter showed fuse and sensor (1086) had continuity. Outlet showed120 and 120. I think it’s the board because of bad rely or relays.

[@jeffreyrstapler]

I have a double oven and the bottom element blew into and lit up the house. I replaced the element but it want work. All other 3 elements work. Fuse is ok. Did I blow the control board? On the right end there is a resistor that plugs into board. It looks discolored but no hot spots on board anywhere. It appears that the board is working as far as function but bottom element don't work.

[@dougvernon5286]

Thanks… so easy to follow and solved my problem after attaching my meter to the oven element. Found that when the rely tripped no current went to the element. Bad connection in the L2 connector. Thanks man you saved me 200 bucks,”.

[@StanZeMan]

Wow what a great explanation. Thanks very much. You solved my issue.

[@craigmartin891]

Hi, I just replaced my heating element and control board on my Whirlpool oven yesterday. It got up to 425 degrees temp for dinner last night and then i went to make cookies later in the night at 350. It never got up to temperature again. Please advise. 6-21-23 Thank you

[@violetgypsie]

I have an older model Roper oven/stove (model ree32303) No digital display, only turn nobs. The oven element works but runs hot (about 50F higher than what it’s set for). The broil element does not work at all. Could it be the fuse? It does not have the old fashioned fuses that you screw in.

[@JCVET18]

What about not holding temp or intermittently work’s right? I have tested everything and everything tests good.

[@hior12israel49]

Great info and as you said my stove works everywhere the top and lights, all but oven light and heat. I guess it would be the fuse as well right ANYBODY?

[@Allourmanfam]

I have a Whirlpool double wall oven which the top half stopped heating. The display works fine and the lower half bakes fine. The day the top-half smells, the over stopped heating and I smelled a burning plastic smell that went away. Is that the bake element or the fuse that made it smell like burning plastic?

[@libanmohamud2674]

Bto you are very talanted in explaining. I got it very well. I am learning applaince repair

[@carsten4594]

Thanks for a great explanation. My problem is the broiler element is not working. Bake works. Element has good conductivity. Must be the relay board.

[@lesleycarter7406]

My aunt has an older whirlpool oven.. recently her broil element stopped working.. I got another one.. the new one doesnt work either.. I looked it up and got a universal element receptical but when I got into the back, there wasn't one.. it just had wires going to the bake and temp knobs..

[@flyman123455]

Very well done, keep up the good work!

[@harrisonschmidt9656]

This video helped me! Oven lights and control panel was working, but no bake/broil. L2 power feed was loose in the breaker panel. Thanks!

[@seriouscat5242]

Only the display works on mine and I can't use the stove or oven...I was able to hear some electeical short noises everytime I turned on the stove for the past week then it died. I still have the clock display, lol. Should I check to see if anything is lose on the terminal block? Or where did you find your solution? Thanks in advance!

[@pablogomez7519]

I have a very old wall double oven and the top oven doesn't work but the bottom works fine. if a element will not work would that cause the light not to turn on? what I mean by light i mean the power light. when I turn the knob a light turns on.

[@ghorner11]

Would the double line break relay be built in to the control board? I have 120 on each leg coming in to the stove and following them right from there to the control board they measure 84 volts (oven turned off) at the board. L1 side of the element gets 120 when oven is turned on while L2 gets nothing. There's no fuse between the element and the control board so is it also built in to the control board (no replaceable fuse seen on the board)?

[@robhill8894]

On Whirlpool double ovens with the fuse easily accessible behind the user interface, I do not replace those with the OEM fuse. I instead use a Dacor or Samsung resettable fuse. I just cut some spacers out of 1/4 inch copper tubing and screw it down right behind the grate where air comes in on it's way to the cooling fan so the customer can just reset it instead of having to pay for another repair for the same thing next Thanksgiving. It pissed off my employers as they would miss out on the future call. I started my own business and treat my customers better.

[@lildeathwish6055]

I work for apartment maintenance and the resident is not from America and swears the oven is broken because both (top, bottom) elements are not on simultaneously. I, born in America and only ever used conventional electric ovens just knew the oven on bake used the bottom and broil setting was the top. Idk we just renovated so I’m new to this whirlpool oven.

[@Shomail7]

Excellent video, explains simply the whole big issue. I have samsung electric stove and could not dind the fuse, if you or anyone in the thread can help out to locate. Thanks

[@Charles-in3zt]

Very good job with this. My Kenmore oven is pre- heating very slowly and never gets hotter than 200 f. I'm not sure if it might be the bake element or the broil element. The bake element is hidden underneath the bottom so I can't see it, but also the broiler element doesn't get hot when set to broil. Am I correct in assuming it is not the fuse because it is heating just very slowly and doesn't get up to temp. I am wondering if a faulty temp sensor might cause this particular problem and maybe the elements are both ok.

[@LoriGarcia]

Did you find out what was wrong? My kenmore is doing the same thing.

[@thomastrotier4267]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/a6O2nn6ApcipeqM

[@TWY7152]

Hello, great explanation, you may be the guy to ask about my oven. The oven is a 20 year Maytag Gemini (MER6769BAW,) the problem is that when the lower oven is on, the top oven heats very slowly, never reaching the preset temperature. If the top oven is used alone, it heats at the normal rate of 5 degree every thirty seconds. After viewing your video, I applied a digital voltage meter to measure the voltage between ground and a terminal on each of the four heating elements. The only voltage I get on each element is 124 VAC. I never get 240 VAC on either the top two elements or the bottom two elements even when either the bottom oven or the top oven is operating normally, ie: heating at the above rate, The service harness terminals both show the correct voltage of 124 VAC After viewing your video, I expected to find what you had stated about L1 and L2. I can hear the relays "making" as the oven or ovens heat up, but the 124 VAC readouts never change. Although unable to duplicate your results, but based on your analysis, I suspect the circuit board needs repair or replacement (both services are available.) Is there any other possible explanation? Thank you for your video, very helpful, and I hope after three years since t was place on YT, you are still available!

[@wisconsinagedffa1820]

If we have a double wall oven do both elements have to work at the same time for heat or can one work with the other burned out?

[@BeardedApplianceRepair]

During preheat they use both elements to heat it up properly. If only one works it will take forever for it to pre-heat if it even can get up that high. If one of them go out likely, you will have a oven that won't work. One samsung in particular will work in bake if only the broil element is out. I had a buddy that had one and he used it that way for a long time. The only catch is it takes and hour or more just to pre-heat. During bake pre-heat it uses both elements to heat it up to the set temp. After that it will only use the bake element to maintain the temp. Hope this clears up the confusion.

[@tylergray6553]

Why does the dlb relay terminal on the element side of the relay have continuity to neutral?

[@teslaslc3049]

My Amana 18 year old wall oven is shutting down. Set 350 put items in and shuts down after awhile. Thinking Board? And the drumb rolls beat

[@peterlgarcia]

Awesome video. Can you do one on if only one element is working and/or not getting to temp.

[@HesedkenRecovery-xg6os]

thanks, you're a good teacher

[@leylameza69]

So how much would you typically charge?

[@Joshuastrong1]

Great educational video. Helped me figure out my problem

[@carmac2622]

Hi I have a Frigidaire stove all burner's work the control panel has no power at all no lights any idea thanks 👍

[@remieferreirasr3352]

Where exactly will I find the fuse

[@joycemcgraw6463]

Great video! I am trying to diagnose my issue with my maytag oven. When I turn the oven on to preheat, it heats up very quickly and the broiler element stays on the whole time. Making my oven too hot. Could this be due to my baking element being out? The baking element is not exposed for me to see if it is heating up or not.

[@BeardedApplianceRepair]

Sounds like a stuck relay on the board to me. The elements do what the board tells it to. For the hidden bake element, when you turn it on, you should feel a little bit if heat coming through the bottom. It can take up to a minute before you feel it though. From what it sounds like it is getting to hot due to the broil element not shutting off. Which tends to be the control board that causes that issue. Verify the bake element is working and change the board. It should work for you after that.

[@joycemcgraw6463]

@@BeardedApplianceRepair Thank you. I tried to replace the temperature sensor, but that was not it.. Thanks so much I will try to replace the control board.

[@TheMadmaxx1970]

I'd like to know when "Modern Day" began. The term modern day telling which diagram would be used relies on when the stove was made, without knowing at least roughly what would be considered "modern day" it's difficult to know which diagram would be applicable for a stove made around 2010.

[@johndix4875]

Christmas morning and have a cold oven 😢 I have 120v at all 4 element connections, now what?

[@dawitd.1006]

Hello there I need a serious help here when I use broil my oven the top element working fine but when the time I use bake the top element is not working

[@n1kkri]

Would you know where I can find a burner tube and igniter for a Modern Maid PHO103-UD double gas oven or equivalent parts? This is great oven but the burner tube has a rotted area and needs to be replaced. I was told its not available from the MFG but was wondering if there was an equivalent.

[@grahamcrippin-mo5ox]

My bake and broil elements both turn on but only get slightly warm. 20 year old Viking oven. What would be the cause for that? Thx.

[@thomastrotier4267]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/a6O2nn6ApcipeqM

[@WestMonroeJonman]

Great video man! I've got one for you. Got a broil element that won't come on. Bake element works fine. I've checked continuity on the element. Fine. Checked continuity on the temperature sensor. Fine. Checked power. It's got 240 (obviously since the bake element comes on). I've even checked continuity at the plug into the board with each wire to the element. Fine. That leaves me with the board or wiring. Any other tips before I order a new board?

[@theresapetersen2676]

Great question, I’ve got the same exact problem. If you happen to figure it out, I’d greatly appreciate knowing your solution. Thanks!!!!!

[@WestMonroeJonman]

@@theresapetersen2676 it ended up being a bad relay on the board. And nobody around me does that kind of work, so I would have had to replace the board, and on that model it wasn't worth replacing, so we bought a new one. Good luck!

[@biggreg100]

My bake works but top element does not come on until I turn it on broil. It gets red hot on broil but doesnt come on when we set clean or bake. Three year old Kenmore.

[@stephenstanko6111]

Good info, but you did not cover my problem. The bottom broil element on Our KEBS209 Kitchen Aid Double Oven does not work. Also the bake on the bottom is very slow heating and does not get above 250. I bake a lot of bread products at 450 degrees and have not used the clean function since February.

[@KH-kv2yq]

What about when the board don't even light up? Is it the L1?

[@crackermantim]

say if i didn't have L2 could all of my top elements still work,seems to be the case?

[@michaelglickman]

I have a 22 year old Kenmore oven, bottom element stopped working, i tried to change the element and still doesnt work, top element works fine.. what could be the problem? the control board? or something else?

[@donpech1422]

I dont see any fuse on my stove. Is it on the mother board?

[@suehinze1566]

Im having this problem with my oven. Both elements wont heat up. Do all ovens have a thermal fuse? I baked a casserole at 400 and then the next day no heat. Im hoping its not the board.

[@mayeri3083]

What would I do if L2 is out? Is each line on it's on fuse? As well is there any easy way to test a relay? Thanks for the amazing video. Have a double jennair oven , while the bottom oven works fine and and the top oven doesn't seem to work neither the bake or the broil, so I made sure the bake and broil elements are working. Swapped them with the bottom ones and it still didn't work. There was power coming in at the bake element, as when I was removing the bake element I hit metal and Bam the fuse blue Forgot to turn off the electric. So there's some electric coming in at the bake , even through o would suspect the fuse to be bad. Seems like I'm going to have to pull the oven out of the wall. Do you have any videos on how to read wire diagrams? Always wanted to learn that technique, I found it amazing to be able to read that info.

[@taylorguttensohn5103]

My bake element is the only one not working. I just replaced the fuse and it still won’t work. Where/how do I check L2 voltage?

[@nathimngadi764]

Best video from South Africa🇿🇦💙🧡💜♥️💜

[@SamTheCarpetMan]

Thank you. Helpful video!

[@daisukiyamamoto3904]

My kenmore oven automatically turns on - very dangerous. It has an oven digital control board. Is it because the board went bad? Shorted?

[@murph2521]

I'm having an issue with my electric double oven the maytag gemini and both top and bottom bake functions will not work. I've bought new elements and still nothing. Checked thermal fuse and contacts on control board everything is clean. It just takes forever on bake to heat up like 4 hours and never fully heats up but I tested the voltage last night to everything and its showing I'm not getting any voltage to the bake elements at all. I'm now lost on what it is or how to test what it could be

[@elmbaker1683]

Great reassurance 9 out 10 its the fuse then other possibilities.

[@rickeykeeton4770]

Is that he fuse inside the dlb relay?

[@patsybanistegvhkr4659]

How much would the repair cost

[@ellenjoseph2583]

My electric whitlpoool freestanding range oven the bake heating element stopped working I replaced it and still not working the broiler element works but not the bake ?

[@douglasfuqua3833]

I have a question? Trying to help someone out. Broil not working. I'm thinking element because in your video you talk of both not working. Any info u give will be helpful. Thanks!

[@wayne10161967]

Same here. My broil works, oven doesn’t. I can run the broil till it is hot and switch it to oven and it will actually beep to the certain temp it’s achieved but oven element won’t heat. Looks fine haven’t tested it yet

[@rickeykeeton71]

Could you show how to check the fuse? I have GE that has no heat going the oven elements and cannot find the fuse. But, I am not sure if the fuse is like a fuse on some dryers. Is it on the board? Btw, as someone else asked are you in Alabama too? Northwest Alabama? I think there is someone close to me that goes by the same name. Decatur? Huntsville? Hartselle? Cullman? Madison? I see now, there different type fuses used on stoves. I have yet to find one on my GE. I think the temp sensor tested within range. It does have a loose nuetral one it. Can’t seem to find where it might go. Seems like it was coming the light on the control board. I have had it for a while in storage since I hit a brick wall with it. I am used to dealing with the others with no dlb.

[@BeardedApplianceRepair]

Some don’t have one. I ran into on recently which was a Frigidaire range that didn’t have a fuse. Not sure how they got away with making that one. Double check the schematic and make sure it has one. If it does it’s usually on the back wall or right above the oven behind the control panel if it’s a wall oven. You can even ohm the wires from the relay board to see if the circuit is good. If you have 30 ohms when testing the bake element circuit you know that all the wiring is good. As long as your power is good and the wiring checks good I would suspect you relay board. I’m curious about that neutral wire. Only way to figure that out is checking the schematic and finding that wire on it to see where it goes. That may have something to do with your problem. Could be the neutral for the double line break relay. Some are not on the board and are on the back of the unit near the element connections. I am from Alabama. You sound likes you’re close. Where are you out of?

[@rickeykeeton71]

Bearded Appliance Repair Florence, Al. I do not have the schematic for this stove. I suspect the dlb relay. Not sure how to ohm it especially while it is still on the board. I am intend to learn more about the electronics on these boards and others, so I can replace relays, diodes, capacitors and such instead of having to replace whole boards. Speaking of Frigidaire, a lot of the dryers seem like a GE with a different name to me.

[@BeardedApplianceRepair]

Rickey Keeton yep you’re an hour away. Yep over here in the Decatur area. I would love to learn how to repair these boards as well. Don’t even know where to start on them. Going to have to find a class one day. There is a Facebook group out there for that type of stuff though but I haven’t spent a lot of time on it. “Re-Engineers” maybe you can learn something from it. Figuring it out on wether it’s L1 or L2 you missing is getting back to the element lead. Take one lead off and testing to see if it has power there. If you don’t when you have it turned on you just follow that wire back to where it stops usually as the board in most cases. If both wires in the element go back to the same board I think it would be safe to say your board it bad. That’s how you know for sure . That goes for bake and broil element by them selves as well. You may have L2 but not L1 for. The relay board. Took me a little while to be able to wrap my head around it but with enough repetition it will be like riding a bike. Without the schematic you have to wire chase lol. One of the worst parts of electrical work. If you get her fixed let us know what fixed it! I would be interested to know.

[@rickeykeeton71]

Bearded Appliance Repair I am a member of “Re-engineers” and a couple of others. I do not comment much there. Still trying to absorb some of the technical info and how-to’s. Mike and others have some very informative info in the files section. I do usually check for power on both legs, but this one is throwing me off. If I remember correctly, line 2 looks like it goes to the infinite switch for top left burner. I have kept the stove to learn this type of wiring setup.

[@rickeykeeton71]

Bearded Appliance Repair took a quick glance at this thing today while I was at the storage building. Line one and two are going to the left burner infinite switch. I can see where line two connects to the board but not line one. The loose neutral looks like it went to a fuse holder, but I cannot find where it went to.

[@joeschleprock3409]

Defective oven selector switch?

[@playboyrwin]

Hi my stove elements doesn’t heat up and it doesn’t have a fuse could my problem be the control board

[@dougsisk619]

Great video. Thanks for this.

[@garyc3955]

What if your bake element is working and your top broil element is not?

[@paulscattolini1832]

Outstanding video!!! I have a samsung slide in oven. It started overheating. Preheat the oven to 350 and it would go over 700 if I wanted it to. The Broil element would never cycle off. I replaced the control panel. It did stop overheating but now the bake element wont get hot all. The broil element is pumping out 240Volts. The bake element is only pulling 120. Can it possibly be that I received another bad control panel with a bad relay? Frustrating.

[@BeardedApplianceRepair]

I had a buddy that bought a new board for his Samsung oven. It was doing weird things like that. He ended up ordering the wrong board designed for a different oven. Looks the same but works a bit different. As long as it is hooked up right it sounds like a bad board or the wrong one. Give us a call and we can look it up for you. Our parts line should be in the description.

[@alternativeshamrock]

When I pulled the oven out it wasn't plugged all the way in so it went out while partially unplugged.

[@pampampo]

Bake works. Broil doesnt. Replaced heating element and thermal sensor. Fuse or control board? Any suggestions?

[@Spartacus206.]

I can’t figure this out! I’m working on a dual fual Jenn-air freestanding stove and the broil and bake don’t work! Replaced fused, replaced the bake element first since it was visibly broken but still no bake or broil! Both side of the element connections get 120v but still no heating! And I also hear the Mainboard clicking! Please help bro

[@zzeeppelin]

f15 error code on kenmore....could it be broil or bake relay?

[@valeriehofmann2615]

Bake element wasnt working. So we replaced the bake relay. Worked once. Next day not heating up gain. What could cause that?